Ok for all you other dudes looking at this , I have done many of them. That bolt that holds the piston on the rod has RED locktight , I use a combination / open end, box end. With the box end on the nut & a 8-10’ pipe , or a homemade hicky bar , someone to put weight on it , you use a short piece of round stock placed on the bolt end & pound it with a heavy hammer . It will come loose. Mistake here, -When they put the bolt back , did not use locktight. On a cyl. , of this size, using locktight 4’ of wrench length is plenty. Where the rubber O ring seal on the gland nut , when you have it screwed in to that point smear with silicone , so that when it is screwed home there is silicone swathing out , so there is no way water can get in there , & of course wipe of all extra . Now anyplace you use silicon , it is a MUST you clean with quality paint thinner or brake cleaner ( no oil ) for adhesion ! He said the gland nut had come loose , so if there was not a Short bolt in the joint between the cylinder & the gland , time to install one , all mine have a 10-32 x 1/4” in that joint , - 1/2 the thread in the cyl end , 1/2 in the gland . To facilitate this a bottoming tap is necessary., so of course when disassembling a cyl , you must be diligent to inspect & make absolutely certain there is not one in your cyl
I also position the equipment so if possible to leave the rod end in place so it is held & supported by wood when the cyl comes off . I have rebuilt all the cyl on Case 580 K , extend-a-hoe , & that one as a real nightmare , did not remove the 2 big ones on the boom , lifted the rods out with pulley blocks over head
Man I am fighting the same thing right now. You guys gave it a valiant effort there! Really disappointed you didn't get it. Watched so many videos where people take an impact to it and it comes off like nothing. Meanwhile I am bending 1" black pipe like it's 1/2" EMT. I have tried PB Blaster sitting for days / Torch / Impact / 10ft Cheater bar... I might have to give up too... but I don't want to let it win! The designed this thing to come OFF! :) Thanks for the video of your efforts let me know I wasn't doing something stupid. Like forgot some pin or something.
I broke a socket drive. The only way to get it off is to heat it RED HOT. RED HOT. There's lock tight in it. If you just heat it for a few minutes it won't come off. Red hot and it will spin like butter.
I did heat the bolt but not very hot and defiantly not to the point of changing color. If you go red hot or close to it you change the heat treating of the bolt so be sure to replace it.
Ok for all you other dudes looking at this , I have done many of them. That bolt that holds the piston on the rod has RED locktight , I use a combination / open end, box end. With the box end on the nut & a 8-10’ pipe , or a homemade hicky bar , someone to put weight on it , you use a short piece of round stock placed on the bolt end & pound it with a heavy hammer . It will come loose.
Mistake here, -When they put the bolt back , did not use locktight. On a cyl. , of this size, using locktight 4’ of wrench length is plenty.
Where the rubber O ring seal on the gland nut , when you have it screwed in to that point smear with silicone , so that when it is screwed home there is silicone swathing out , so there is no way water can get in there , & of course wipe of all extra . Now anyplace you use silicon , it is a MUST you clean with quality paint thinner or brake cleaner ( no oil ) for adhesion !
He said the gland nut had come loose , so if there was not a Short bolt in the joint between the cylinder & the gland , time to install one , all mine have a 10-32 x 1/4” in that joint , - 1/2 the thread in the cyl end , 1/2 in the gland . To facilitate this a bottoming tap is necessary., so of course when disassembling a cyl , you must be diligent to inspect & make absolutely certain there is not one in your cyl
I also position the equipment so if possible to leave the rod end in place so it is held & supported by wood when the cyl comes off . I have rebuilt all the cyl on Case 580 K , extend-a-hoe , & that one as a real nightmare , did not remove the 2 big ones on the boom , lifted the rods out with pulley blocks over head
Man I am fighting the same thing right now. You guys gave it a valiant effort there! Really disappointed you didn't get it. Watched so many videos where people take an impact to it and it comes off like nothing. Meanwhile I am bending 1" black pipe like it's 1/2" EMT. I have tried PB Blaster sitting for days / Torch / Impact / 10ft Cheater bar... I might have to give up too... but I don't want to let it win! The designed this thing to come OFF! :) Thanks for the video of your efforts let me know I wasn't doing something stupid. Like forgot some pin or something.
LMAO...Motorcycle helmet ? Gotta love these weekend warriors ! All they are missing is some duct tape and some baling wire. LOL
I broke a socket drive. The only way to get it off is to heat it RED HOT. RED HOT. There's lock tight in it. If you just heat it for a few minutes it won't come off. Red hot and it will spin like butter.
I did heat the bolt but not very hot and defiantly not to the point of changing color. If you go red hot or close to it you change the heat treating of the bolt so be sure to replace it.
Yeehaww!
Mmmm hydraulic fluid.
Hind sight is 20/20 🙂
At least.