Coffee Roasting with SR540 and Artisan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I show how I connected the SR540 roaster to the open-source Artisan software, highlight some of the Artisan display features, demonstrate how to roast coffee with this setup, and include some basic roasting information along the way. A similar setup should also work with the SR800 roaster.
If you enjoyed this content, please consider subscribing to this channel and liking this video, as well as providing your comments.
Jump to a section:
0:15 - Setup Overview
3:17 - Roast Demo Starts
6:00 - Maillard Phase Starts
10:03 - First Crack Starts
14:52 - Second Crack Starts
17:55 - Roast Ends
19:30 - Roast Sound Waveform
20:21 - Artisan Roast Display Summary
Links to related videos:
SR540 Thermocouple Installation for Artisan Software: • SR540 (or SR800) Coffe...
Coffee Roasting Sound Analysis: • Coffee Roasting Sound ...
Roasting with SR540 (or SR800) Extension Tube and Artisan Software: • Roasting with SR540 (o...
Download the Artisan settings file used in this demonstration (after downloading, you can load these settings file into Artisan from Artisan's "Help|Load Settings..." Menu)
drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
Other Links:
SR540 Roaster: homeroastingsupplies.com/shop...
Artisan Software: artisan-scope.org/
Thermocouple Setup Instructions: artisan-scope.org/phidgets/2x...
Phidgets: www.phidgets.com/
Primos Green Beans: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Voltage Meter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Microphone (any microphone should work, I used one I already have: the miniDSP UMIK-1): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Audacity Software (for recording the sound): www.audacityteam.org/
![[UNCUT] ฝันรักห้วงนิทรา | EP.9 (3/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ikd1tEhXbp8/mqdefault.jpg)
Let me know in the comments below if you would like to see more detailed videos of this setup, including thermocouples installation, Artisan software configuration and settings, roast sound waveform analysis, outlet voltage impact on SR540 performance, how to take accurate color photos of coffee beans, etc. Thank you for watching!
Yes to videos on Thermocouple install! I just got a Gene Roaster, and considering recording ET and BT
@@danielstasin6210 Hi Daniel, I will put together a video on Thermocouple install and post within a few days. I am not familiar with the Gene Roaster, but hopefully you can get some ideas from my setup. The software drivers and Artisan configuration should be the same.
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 Why beans temperature (blue line) is higher than a hot air temperature (red line) ? 5:20
@@yurybadanin5035 The blue line measures the air temperature near the beans, which is higher than the air temperature measured by the red line thermocouple near the exhaust. The air cools down a little between the middle of the chamber and the top of the chamber, this is why the blue line is higher than the red line. You can check the video on thermocouple installation th-cam.com/video/NH73BS-zV6o/w-d-xo.html for more details about the thermocouples location. Hope this helps!
I am very interested in a video of your set up for Fresh Roast. Also, could you do a video on how well you have been able to control ROR during the roast? You indicate that you think you will learn how to control ROR with practice. Now that you have experience and practice is that true? Great videos and you are a great teacher as well. Thank-you
The best coffee roasting tutorial on the internet!
Just... wow. This is one of the very best, most thorough and comprehensive SR roasting videos I've seen. Thank you so much!
Thank you for your kind feedback!
This is so clinically analized and so informative it look like it's paid content. Please keep doing videos they're the best ones out there.
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback (and it is not paid content :-).
Hi there. Thanks for this amazing and very professionally done video; chock full of useful information. I’ve seen hundreds of coffee videos and yours is my personal favorite. Bravo!
One question: do you find the ET probe absolutely necessary or of little help?
Thank you very much for your feedback! About the ET probe, sometimes I use the information from both probes to confirm a rate of change trend up or down. There are times when the BT and ET probes rate of change move in opposite directions, and other times when they move in the same direction. I tend to trust more the ET trend than the BT trend, because the BT trend is strongly influenced by changing beans motion patterns in the bean chamber. Other than than, probably the BT probe only is fine if you need to pick only one probe, as long as you don't react too quickly to changes in rate of change. Hope this helps!
Thank you for your helpful reply and looking forward to more of your good quality videos
Great overall video, excellent detail and arrangement. Nice work.
Dry well presented. Thank you.
An outstanding and really helpful video. Thanks!
I especially loved following the color changes of the grains during the process. Excellent work. Congratulations!
Thank you for your feedback!
This is an amazing video! I’m going to watch it a few times to absorb the info. I just got the 800 and have done a few roasts in it. Your video will give me the benefit / Intel of 100 roasts! Thank you.
Thank you very much for the feedback, hope it helps you with the 800!
You did an awesome job sharing and explaining! Thank you!
Thank you very much!
Excellent! Liked, Shared, and Subscribed!!!
Thank you for all the hard work! Keep up the good content and can't wait for next one.
Thank you very much!
Wow, that was great. Thanks so much for explaining the process so well!
Thanks for your feedback!
Thank you for such a great and updated video. Just what I needed for my new SB540 that I got for Christmas.
Glad it was helpful!
This is the best walkthrough I have seen! Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Best FreshRoast video, thank you very much!
Thank you for the feedback!
Excellent video. Got a SR540 for Christmas and have enjoyed it. This video will help me take my roasting up a couple of levels.
Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent video and super cool idea!
Thank you very much!
Great job!
Thanks!
Thank you for this comprehensive and well presented video. I am in the beginning stages of using the SR540 and Artisan software, coupled through a PerfectPrime TC2100 dual temperature meter. The perfect video at exactly the right time.
You are welcome! Thank you for the feedback, and I am glad it was helpful to you.
just one video, enough to answer all my newbie question about roasting
Glad it was helfpul!
Very well presented. I just came across your channel and will be looking at your other videos. Yes, I am interested in more detailed videos on your Artisan setup and will be looking to see if you have already covered that. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback, yes I added more detailed videos. Hope you found them useful as well.
amazing video. Super informative and well exemplified with the beans visual development.
Was wondering if roasting with 240V would have similar issues...
i like your work, thanks
You are welcome, thank you for your feedback!
Very informative!
Thank you!
Brilliant! Thank you!
You are welcome!
Awesome, very informative, and professional video! Thanks so much for putting this together. You mentioned that perhaps you wanted to increase the fan speed to make first crack last for a shorter period of time. One other video I watched suggested the opposite, reducing the fan speed during the first crack so there’d be more of a chance for heat to build up in the beans since they wouldn’t be bouncing around so much.
Thanks for the feedback! If I remember correctly I thought in the demo roast the beans were not moving enough early on, so increasing the fan speed would distribute the heat more evenly resulting in a more even roast. I think after first crack you also want to make sure there is enough development time in the roast and don't want to rush this stage. I am still learning about these topics. You might want to check another video I made with an extension tube at th-cam.com/video/xo9IdakyIqw/w-d-xo.html. Thanks again!
Fascinating video, great work. Wondering if you have access to an SR800 and could do similar video on a larger roast (with the same Primo coffee, lol which appears to be the beginner Amazon go to green coffee). Mainly asking because your temp/burner settings were so low throughout, on an 800 I don't think I could ever get to first crack with the temp/burner at 1.
Best video ive seen so far using the Artisan, would love to learn from you more about the roast sound waveform analysis, and if you can use the sound of first crack and second crack to control the roasting process during the roast.
Also, if you have any thoughts of incorporating moisture detection sensor in the roasting process, because that can change significantly the temperature of first crack. Thanks for your time!
Hi Benny, thank you for subscribing! I am working on a previous request for a thermocouple installation video, I will work next on a sound waveform analysis video. I haven't thought about moisture detection, I will have to look into that. Makes sense that first crack temperature depends on bean initial moisture content because first crack is caused by steam expansion and venting.
My new SR800 arroces tomorrow and I definitely want to use Artisan to help get consistant results. I world luke to see how you modified the sr540 to acomódate the tcs.
You can check the thermocouple installation video at th-cam.com/video/NH73BS-zV6o/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Thanks. How much temperature difference approx. between BT and the temp showing on thr sr540?
Thank you!. I am not sure, I have not looked at the sr540 temp in a while. The problem is that when you make a change in fan or temp setting, the sr540 temp will change quickly (it measures the inlet air temperature), but the BT will lag behind and provide a more realistic feedback on bean temperature. So the temperature difference will depend, among other things, on how soon after a change you measure it.
Great video. I see that during the roast, the Air and Burner data show on the graph, how do you do that? For expl, at 4:54, the label is B10 and A90.
look under config>events>sliders. you can label them as you like. default is Air(for fan) and Burner(heat)....you can also add buttons. i use both.
Great video. Thanks for all your hard work putting this together. I can't help but notice that your two probes are acting as one. No discernible difference between BT and ET. Even the deltaT is only different based on the smoothing you have chosen. Have you tried lowering your BT probe to get more bean contact?
Thanks for the feedback. You are right, both thermocouples track each other so only BT may be sufficient. In another video with an extension tube I have the thermocouple lower into the bean mass so there is more bean contact, you might want to check that one (the link is in the description). In that video, I use ET mostly to confirm the direction of a rate of change because sometimes they move in opposite directions. Hope this helps!
Definitely the best video on this setup. Did you have to configure the sliders and buttons?
Thanks! I did have to configure the sliders, but it is not difficult to do in Artisan. I included a link in the Description to download the Artisan configuration I used, so you can try that if you like.
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 Thank you.
Amazing video! I also roast on a 540 at home and use Artisan and thermocouples. I've read Scott Rao's books and have tried to incorporate industrial drum roasting ideas to the fluid-bed 540 - things like declining ROR and 20-25% DTR, which you reference. It's quite a challenge. I've roasted hundreds of batches the past year (yay pandemic hobbies). I also used similar methods as you here on this video of starting on Fan 9, Power 1 and slowly lowering fan while raising power. Using that method, I got some beautiful curves, but struggled to get really great tasting coffee. I get better tasting coffee using the standard Sweet Maria's roasting method of starting on Fan 9, Power 9, and then slowly lowering fan to 8, 7, 6 while keeping Power at 9. This roast style takes 4-5 mins and the ROR is super steep. But, like I said, it tastes better. So all that said, I'm curious how do your roasts taste? You said you usually roast to Second Crack, whereas I generally like to stay in the City to City+ level. Sorry for such a long post I was just excited to find such a similar roasting setup to what I've been doing.
Also, sorry for another verbose post - but I wanted to say that I REALLY struggled when roasting dense beans. For instance, I had some Ethiopians that were grown at 2300+ MASL (very high!), which in my mind equates to a denser bean. It was VERY DIFFICULT to get them to even enter First Crack using the roasting method in this video (starting on Fan 9, Power 1). I had to REALLY give them more heat up-front to get them to enter First Crack with gusto. Actually, now that I think about it, that's what caused me to abandon starting on Fan 9, Power 1. I had really beautiful curves AND the beans looked good but they tasted grassy and underdeveloped (really terrible in other words, and these were 90+ rated beans). That's what caused me to sort of start over and go back to the Sweet Maria's method (starting on Fan 9, Power 9).
Thank you! Since this video, I am now roasting with an SR540 extension tube and chaff collector modification. This allows for more bean agitation (specially at lower outlet voltages) and larger bean quantities (I have gone as high as 225 grams). With this setup, I start at fan 9 and power 1 and I keep lowering the fan until the bean movement is adequate but not too much. I usually end up at fan 5 or 6. Only then I start increasing the power if needed, and sometimes only very little is necessary (2 or 3). I may post a video with this updated setup. For developing my taste, I got two green beans samplers from Sweet Maria's so I can compare and learn. I am in the middle of that process, I may post results in the future. I must say I am happy with the taste in all cases, but I should do a comparison with the Sweet Maria's profile you mentioned (maybe another video?). One of the samplers I roasted was from Ethiopia (CX-6611), and I didn't have any problems getting to First Crack with the extension tube. The taste was really amazing on a V60 pour, lots of berry and chocolate flavor. I will post the artisan screen if I can figure out how to do it (this one I stopped before Second Crack). I don't know why in your case a slow roast would taste grassy and underdeveloped, should be the opposite I would think.
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 Nice! The extension tube seems to be a game-changer. I need to try it out.
RE: "I don't know why in your case a slow roast would taste grassy and underdeveloped, should be the opposite I would think." ... it's because the beans were not getting enough heat up front to enter first crack. Sorry I should have been more clear. Perhaps my voltage is low ... I should check. My best roasts come from starting at high heat, high fan and then quickly lowering the heat (9-8-7, etc) and slowly lowering the fan.
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 This was great! I would also love to see a video using the extension (I currently have an SR800 with the extension). Thanks!
@@gmcnatt I really appreciate your detailed comment. I did about 60 roasts on the SR800 using the Fan 9 Power 9 method, and was sometimes getting great coffee, but it was inconsistent. So I just installed a thermocouple on the SR800 and started using Artisan to try to achieve more consistency. After watching a few videos and learning about declining RoR curves, I've done a few roasts with the Fan 9 Power 1 method, and I'm not able to dry the beans out in a reasonable amount of time, so I end up at Power 9 during the drying phase anyway.
Awesome job! I have the SB800 and I am in the process of setting Artisan now. Can you share all your settings and configurations? I think I have most of them but can’t figure out how to get the air and temp adjustable sliders to appear. I see the option under “view” but can select them. Thanks again, I’m sure this will help my roaring!
Thank you! For the settings and configuration, I have a link to the configuration file I used in the Description with instructions to install it in Artisan. By the way, the sliders appear after you press the "ON" button. Make sure the "Air" and "Burner" boxes are checked in Config|Events, Sliders Tab. Hope this helps and good luck!
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 Thank you, I must have missed the file. I did however find the slider boxes after doing some searching through all the settings. I really appreciate your videos. Very excellent and helpful!
Thanks for getting me onto doing these mods. I did my first couple of Artisan roasts just this week.
One question for you: somewhere I saw a post about attaching a wire to the SR TC for inporting
incoming air temp into Artisan. Do you know where that might be? It was a long post with pictures
and instructions. I tried redditt but to no avail.
Thanks for the videos. By the way, why are your heat and fan markings do much better than mine.
Mine don't say the actual number. That would be much better. Is it in config?
You are welcome! I am not familiar with the post you refer to, sorry. For the markings, I recommend you download the configuration file (link in the description) and take a look at the settings, hopefully that will solve the problem.
Just a question though, I’m less than 10 minutes into your video, but I always thought that bean temperature would be lower than environmental temperature and that eventually you may see equilibrium when the bean temp eventually catches up to environment temp. I think maybe in your case it is because the bean probe is actually sitting above the level of the beans and closer to the heat rather than actually measuring the bean temp.
I am copying my post to another channel regarding the ROR curve:
The ROR curve is the measure of slope (derivative) of the temperature curve. It picks up on variations of temperature. The temperature graph is trending fairly well if you were to fit a curve through the data-points. Is roasting quality really that sensitive to tiny shifts in temperature? If not, I think ROR curve isn't very useful. A smooth ROR really suggests an expensive roaster, with a sophisticated feedback system. Slight variations in the roast quality in home roasting is expected. It is like driving on a asphalt road with tiny bumps.
I am going to follow up on my message with some physics:
The relationship between heat (q) stored within a _uniform_ volume (here the coffee beans) and temperature (dT) as follows:
q = m C dT
q: the amount heat stored in the beans (proportional to increase in the heat released by the source)
m: mass of the beans
C: beans specific heat capacity(how much heat they can store)
dT: is the change in temperature
for SR800 we have
q = m1 C dT_1
for a commercial large capacity unit we have (assuming equal amount of heat)
q = m2 C dT_2
where m2 >> m1
given equal amount of heat released by the sources we have the following
m1 dT_1 = m2 dT_2
considering that m2 is much larger than m1, dT_2 is lot a less sensitive to the noise and incremental changes in the amount of heat generate from the source as compared to dT_1. This translates into a much higher sensitivity of the SR800 temperature to changes in the generated heat when compared to the a commercial large volume roaster. As such the ROR curve will be all over the place for SR800.
at this point i am not yet planning to use a probe. can you tell me ,if i use the machine readout, which of the red/blue lines would be a good approximation of the machines temp ?
The blue line would be closer to the machine temperature, but the machine temperature will be higher because it measures the inlet air temperature. By the time the air reaches the beans thermocouple (blue line), it will be cooler because of heat exchange with the beans and losses through the chamber glass walls. Also, the machine temperature will change faster than the blue curve when you change a setting.
hi, great video. how can I repeat automatic all this process? Artisan can do it?
Thank you for your feedback! I think it would be hard to automate this process, because it depends on too many variables (type and quantity of beans, ambient temperature and humidity, outlet voltage level, etc.). If you want to follow the same roasting profile, artisan can display a background profile that you can then try to follow by adjusting the air and heat settings manually (I believe the instructions are in the artisan help). Hope this helps!
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 thank you
Thank you for this very well done video.
I'm interested in automatically controlling the knobs of the SR540. The input of the closed loop algorithm would be the desired level of roast, as well as the different sensor signals (temperature, sound, etc). Do you know if anyone has tried to do this before? Would you be interested in chatting to exchange ideas?
Hi, I don't know if someone has tried closed loop control on the SR540. I imagine to be a rather complex undertaking and not sure if it would be worth the effort. You are controlling two variables (beans motion and bean temperature) with two variables (fan setting and heater setting, with the fan setting affecting both motion and temperature). The temperature rate of change measurement is a bit erratic and you would have to apply heavy filtering, which makes automatic control more challenging. For now I am still trying to get better at manually controlling the SR540 :-).
@Coffe Roasting at Home I'm an Electrical Engineer with experience in control and automation. I'm confident that automatic control it's possible but I need to understand first the roasting process, and how the input and output variables are related. Thanks for the reply and keep up with the videos, they are really useful!
Pedro, this can be easily done. Use a PID controller in a RasperryPI and wire relay outputs into the fan and heat inputs. I plan on doing the same thing!! I plan to program the fan based on time, to keep the beans moving as they expand and drop in weight, then control the bean temperature via the heat input to the 540 with a PID controller.
@@jeffs6002 I used to be a control engineer, and also interested in controlling the SR540 automatically by a PID controller. However, I don't know if the SR540 fan speed and power level can be changed thru the relay outputs of RaspberryPI. Could you elaborate it?
Where might I find the ?classical artisan" theme in the controls? Thank you
You can find it in the Menu: Config->Themes->Artisan->Classic
I am completely new to Artisan. Do you need to buy their Phidget hardware in order to work with the Artisan software? Can Artisan software supports the standard Arduino Uno and MAX6675?
No, I think you can use other thermocouple solutions to connect to Artisan. I found the Phidget hardware easy to setup and connect. You can browse the Artisan documentation for some ideas, take a look at artisan-scope.org/docs/setup/#configure-for-supported-devices
How are you setting the FreshRoast temp and fan settings from Artisan??
Artisan is only used for monitoring the thermocouple temperature, FreshRoast temp and fan settings are still controlled using the knob. You can also make a "record" of the settings using the Artisan sliders as shown in the video.
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 thank you! I did my first roast with Artisan tonight. Love having the accuracy now.
How do you get the Air and Burner sliders to stay on? When I press Start, the sliders disappear.
I don't know, I never had this happened. I follow the press sequence: "RESET", then "ON", then "START". The sliders appear after I press "ON", and stay after I press "START". For the configuration, make sure in Config->Events->Sliders tab "Air" and "Burner" have a check mark, and on both nothing in "Action" nor "Command", and Offset=0.0, Factor=1.000, Min=10, Max=90, Coarse checked, Temp blank and Unit blank. Those are the exact settings I use. Good luck!
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 Thank you. I actually figured it out. I had to press View (at the top), then press Sliders. Now, they always show.
I have noticed that First Crack happens at about 10:30 . Most of what i have seen and heard have people reaching this point between 5 and 6 minutes. This appears to me to be a result of you using very low temperature readings till about 8 minutes. Is there a reason for your process ? I personally like the fruity sweet roasts... Would this exercise be relevant to me ? after drying phase i used to go right to power=9 but recently i have used power 5 with good results.. i am just researching this to find the best 'typical' roast profile. thanks
10:30 minutes is from the start of the video. From the start of the roast, FC starts shortly after 8 minutes. In another more recent video I made with an extension tube (th-cam.com/video/xo9IdakyIqw/w-d-xo.html), FC starts at 7:22 min. You are right, I tend to use a slower roast profile because I find that my stomach does not like too much acid in coffee so by roasting slower I remove more of the acidic content. Since you like more fruity roasts you may want to roast faster than I do to preserve these flavors. The advantage of the setup I show is that once you find a profile you like you can repeat it no matter the outlet voltage, ambient temperature, etc. Hope this helps!
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 thanks for the reply. i thought acidity was only related to the degree of roast (espresso type roast = less acid)… my wife has a sensitive stomach so i’m going to follow YOUR SLOW PROCESS !
i’ve watched your video like 5 or 6 times !! it’s the best !
ps
after watching your video i did a roast and watched the temperature…. now maybe it was a coincidence since the machine temp is not reliable …. and i noticed the machine temp took a little dip at about first crack ! i quickly lowered. the fan to keep the temp steady. i will drink my test after a few days.
pps
i may buy a cheap bluetooth thermometer to try getting a temp a little more accurate…
@@stephenrudolph1064 acidity is related to both roast speed and degree of roast. I usually roast slowly to just after start of second crack. Other factors to consider for low acidity are low altitude green beans (e.g. , from Brazil or Sumatra), dry processed, brew with lower water temperature and with paper filter. If the machine temperature dipped without changing any settings, I think it is probably due to something like a drop in the outlet voltage or ambient temperature change. If you can get a temperature probe placed where the beans are, this will give you the best information. I got frustrated with the machine temperature, so this is why I went with the Phidget/Artisan system and it made a huge difference. Thanks for your feedback!
@@coffeeroastingathome8890 thanks for the extra info !!! i have ordered a thermometer AND a voltage meter to check my power. i live in an apartment building so maybe the voltage changes depending upon the building’s use. i am only 6 feet away from the fuse box so at least i don’t have to run around my condo trying. different plugs.
regarding temp lowering, i believe i read that when FC happens, some moisture does escape and may lower the chamber temp. (this may though be irrelevant if using machine temp )
@@stephenrudolph1064 I found the voltage meter very useful not just for roasting outlet voltage measurements, but also for checking how much electricity other appliances consume. In my house the voltage changes a lot, in a range between 116 and 125 volts. Roasting at 116 volts is very different than roasting at 125 volts, so this is why I found that roasting recipes that specify the fan and heat settings at different times do not always produce consistent roasts. You are right about FC moisture release changing the chamber temperature, and also right that it is irrelevant if using the machine temperature because it measures the inlet air temperature before it mixes in the chamber.
Hi, why the environment temperature is lower than the grain temperature?
b/c ET probe is higher up in the chamber. No need for the ET imo.
@@rondela7341 Yes, that is correct. I also found the ET to be of limited use.
Any software that will work on a IPad ?
I don't know about any software that will work on an iPad. I have used the Artisan software on both a PC laptop and a Mac laptop with no issues.
The BT and ET must be are reversed.
RORflucruates pretty high though
I found it hard to control the ROR smoothly with this type of roaster. The discrete change in fan and heat settings plus the beans motion makes the temperature fluctuate around the thermocouple location. You can increase the filtering in Artisan to make it look smoother, but you would be just masking what is going on and it would make it more difficult to control. Having said that, I don't know how much of a problem it is that the ROR fluctuates like that.