Tougher blade, thinner steel. Modern super steels should be used to make very thin slicey knives. Even survival knives can be much thinner with crazy strong modern steels
Thats not entirely accurate. Sometimes a thicker blade can have certain benefits. For example, if you want a folding knife to have some better outdoor utility, a thicker and heavier blade can be helpful. Whether its for push cuts or light delimbing, an AD 10 will do those jobs better than a Bugout. Also, sometimes you want a thicker tip for drilling or prying rather than a thinner tip for stabbing penetration. Different things are different, and there are always compromises in any knife.
All comes down to purpose. I see 'super steels' creating more options rather than replacing existing ones. For example, some users out there might have been avoiding survival style knives due to size & weight. With super steels allowing for thinner & lighter blades, maybe these users now have options that interest them. I suspect cost will be an issue for larger blades as super steels are $$$ and often hard to work with.Great point though & have a great day!
@@tarinindell8217 prying with any knife is not something you should be doing. Thats not what a knife is designed to do. Also the OP is just _suggesting_ that there should be more options to knives that are made thinner with all the modern super steels available. With that being said i tend to agree with his opinion, if your knife needs to be thicker the chances are it is because its made with an inferior type of steel, of which will more likely dull and or break, especially if your using it to pry open anything...
Just made my 1st of hopefully many knifecenter purchases. Please please keep your 3 guys that make the videos as long as you can. These videos make me happy. Thank you knifecenter for quality content.
🤣Dude the animated intro is so dumb! I love it haha. I used to watch knife banter, but I don't like it anymore since zac and ben left. This is all I watch now 🤘
I've never had a problem with flipper tabs tearing pockets. I prefer opening holes and front flippers because they allow the knife to lay flat on a cutting surface, in most cases
For the guy asked about thin blade knife I would recommend the Kershaw Cargo, which its blade less than 0.125' thick, has quite similar blade geometry to the hogue mentioned by DCA and also use back lock that in my opinion, in case of thin blades knives are quite more safe than liner lock. That is because liner lock holds the blade in place only on 30-50% of its width while back lock locks the whole width of the blade base. In cases of thin blades this is more significant. Check it out...
@@arrowheadguys7637 Sure it is. The less bearing surface, the less force it will require to fail. I'm not sure if it scales linearly, or to what degree, what level of "thinness" becomes a real world problem. Nonetheless, ...all other variables being reasonably equal...less mass/contact area will fail sooner.
@@adamjames1375 The blade stock doesn't equate into it from any of the liner locks I've seen. The liner is thinner than the blade anyways, so the bearing surface is 100% based on the liner profile.
@@arrowheadguys7637 As an rough example,... If a thinner liner is bearing on a thinner blade, depending on its engagement depth, it will have to travel less far, than a larger/thicker liner, on a larger/thicker bearing/blade. It's also less mass, less rigid, and provides less friction. The whole issue could be avoided if the blade was milled so that the pivot end was thicker, though it would increase the manufacturing cost. I'm not trying to be a jerk here...and we could debate "how strong the liner lock needs to be" ... but less mass, all other things being equal, will equate to less strength. The only question really is "Is the less strength still sufficient?" There's definitely ways to solve this. One way would be to increase the liners thickness and increase its' pocket size within the handle, so that there's less room to travel. Also increasing the degree of the springs/liners tension, while adding a bit of jimping/ access relief to offset the stiffness.
New to collecting. Just got a Spyderco Delica. .098 in (about 2.5 mm.) NOW I know what a slicer is. Big difference from my other knives. Great video and great comments. Thanks All!
The Kershaw Dividend is one of my favorite thin bladed knives at 3" long. I'm usually not a huge fan of assisted openings, but as for the Dividend, it's barely noticeable and easy to close one-handed.
Hey DCA…When I read Matt’s question “Does Blade height matter? I was thinking of blades of same length and thickness. What height would be best? That would be based on intended use. A blade with more height would be better for something like batoning if that is your thing because you would be able to pound it in deeper before the back edge became flush with the wood 🪵 you were splitting or whatever. So height would be an advantage. But a shorter blade height wise would be better for delicate carving like carving out a spoon, making delicate trap triggers etc. Also “taller blades would be inherently heavier and “shorter” would be inherently lighter given the same length and thickness.
I've had trouble with the pocket clips against the textured handle damaging pockets, but never with a flipper. Carrying without a clip would leave wear marks on the outside of my work pants, just because I always carried in the same position so bumping into stuff over time wore the denim thin.
Love the info given and show. I have a question on thin vs thick blades - you give examples for thin blade uses (letter opening, cardboard, detail work), but about thick blade examples? The blade is tougher and more robust. Batoning is obvious, but I am talking about everyday use where one would say, " I better breakout the thicker blade for this job" or perhaps a profession. Thanks.
It would be more fitted to chopping / prying tasks to utilize that. Also, thicker blades are more resistant to chipping and if you do dull/chip the blade you have a longer "lifespan" of sharpening it, though it will be more difficult.
I’m no expert, but a knife lover nonetheless. The most common tasks I could think of, in which having a thicker blade would pose as an advantage, would be tasks relating to chopping, bushcraft, and the materials you will be cutting. Chopping tasks could include butchering, removing something connected by a stubborn material (think a thick plastic or something), preparing game, or even cutting of a thick rope. Bushcraft tasks could include clearing light shrubbery, carving, shaving bark off of a log-tasks that may benefit from the heavier blade. Lastly, durability. If you are somewhere in which you may drop the knife, or if dropping it may be a bit of a hard drop, the thicker blade may help prevent chipping or damage-depending on the steel of course. Another useful note is the ability to make wider cuts due to the blades thickness, sometimes a razor thin cut is simply not what you are looking for. Hopefully that helped, though knifecenter will obviously be more knowledgeable than I am, and I am in no way an expert, not even close.
I've never had flipper damage yet. I have had significant pocket wear from several thumb stud knives. one of them being my very loved Ruike trekker. It begins to tear the stitching of where the pocket material joins the leg of the jeans. maybe someday ill modify the stud, but i still love the tool so much that its my go to edc for most occasions.
Firstly, blade & handle size & shape depend on your hands. That's why it's different for everyone. But - There is an idea blade width - for EDC where length is shorter. I can't give you a measurement range, as I don't really have something for that (as I don't take measurements) But think medium-large folder blade, if the gentleman/office carry knives are short - blade height-wise. The idea here is you don't want it to be tall but you want enough room for the edge to thin out just the right amount. But also, IMO, with the perfect drop point being the most versatile blade shape there is - the perfect drop point being low curved tip, just enough belly somewhere in the middle of the blade but maybe towards the tip-side a little, & downward straight edge towards the back that leads into the belly. The closest thing I've found to this blade shape is the Nessie from Urban EDC Supply, if you need a live example of what I mean, but with less belly than the Nessie has. (If they had dialed the belly back a bit, it would have been the perfect drop point.) You also want the blade long enough to properly house all three of those functions, but only just, since the longer you make the blade past your comfort area, the more cumbersome using the blade will become - unto using both hands to properly use a blade once it becomes too long for non-sketchy use with one hand. Now, that range is different for everyone depending on hand size.
I find the Swiss Army standard blade shape hard to beat. Thin Full flat grind, not "tall", slightly downward facing point with a dash of belly, distal taper, with a sharpening choil. I'd love to see one scaled up to 4" long blade, around 3/4" tall and around an 1/8" thick.
@@adamjames1375 I have a couple & I've always worried about snapping the blade. I also wish it had a proper tip as the tip is the most useful part of a knife. It being mostly straight-ish edge with belly on the end, I find it hard to utilize the belly for surface cutting even with my stocky hands, which is the blade category I feel it competes in. I've always thought of it as a backup blade, personally. What do you tend to use them for?
@@Krusher_Knave To tell you the truth, not much. I use a small folding button lock utility razor for the vast majority of my day to day utility tasks. While I really like the Swiss Army profile, I never really choose it as a tool. Outside of the kitchen, I almost always use a utility razor, when outdoors I am still really fond of my old Buck 119. In the typical swiss army size, I just don't really have an ideal task for them. I occasionally carry and use a Spartan model & found it very nimble just a bit small. But as a "do all" type folder with a 4" sized up, similarly proportioned blade, a larger, thicker ergonomic Frn handle, I think I'd use it often. I like the downward tip/slight belly. For cleaning fish/game and being a general kitchen utility knife, I think it could strike a nice balance. The downward tip is kind of a blend between a spear and a sheapsfoot. The distal taper and general thin stock help offset the tip for piercing and improve slashing/skinning strokes. I'm a Fan of thin knives, like Kephart profiles, Old Hickory/Green Rivers, The Mora Kansbol/2000 is an outstanding tool. I think a 4" scaled up folding Swiss Army single blade would be a sweet outdoors/camp companion knife.
@@adamjames1375 I like the way you think. I mainly use the QSP Penguin as my utility knife of choice, even though I wish it was a fixed blade so it was much easier to clean & had much less probability of breaking due to the many parts of a folder. Much less issues to have happen with fixed blades. The Penguin is the perfect utility knife shape, IMO. Does the Buck 119 have a useful tip? Is one necessary for outdoor tasks? (I don't have this lifestyle.) Also, have you seen Jack Wolf Knives? He just released one with a similar blade shape to SAK. Also, the WESN Henry might be a blade shape you're interested in.
@@Krusher_Knave I have seen Jack Wolf knives, they look great but are a little pricey for me & while I can appreciate a non locking Swiss Army knife for $20 or so...as a tool I can't see the value in a Jack Wolf. They are super cool & sexy, but I'm not a collector and as a tool, there's just much better, more affordable utilitarian options. The Buck 119 is an old design 6" fixed blade. Bowie style clip point, hunting knife. It's nicely hollow ground with a fairly stout spine. It's very slicy & strong enough. Not a heavy duty big log busting battoner. Mine has basic 420 H.C. steel which I've been happy with, though you can upgrade. It's pretty huge for most hunting tasks, but if paired with a smaller blade it can make quick work of big jobs. Works fairly well with fish. There's just something about it. On paper it's pretty mediocre, the handle is slippery. It's just a sexy blade and I've become so familiar with it that I just like her more as the years go on. ... I'll have to check out the Penguin.
For me geometry is a blend of: 1) blade length + 2) blade height + 3) blade stock thickness + 4) blade edge thickness + 5) blade shape. Changes to any of these changes the geometry. As DCA often says, everything's a compromise. eg. thick blade may be stronger but be less slicey. (Steel aside) Blade geometry will usually determine: 1) lateral strength ie. resistance to bending + 2) edge cutting performance ie. ease of moving through material + 3) cutting efficiency ie. what type of cutting it does best ie. push cuts? skinning? food prep? Sharp blades everyone.
Most serious Question: Too many mosquitos in my house that fly around from room to room. I don't want to kill them so what would be the best knife to cut off their wings so they cannot fly anymore?
Never had any problems with a "Pocket Pecker" but like DCA said,the clip can eat your pockets,like my Ultramar Redencion,sturdy firm clip that likes to get stuck on the pocket edge,or any excessive material in the pocket.
I carry a Kershaw Leek assisted opening knife, it has a thumbstud and a flipper tab, it's razor sharp,& it's got a very keen point, and it opens as fast as a switchblade
Greetings David, Thomas & Seth. Thank you for the work you do in creating these videos. They're always informative and entertaining. May I ask, when is a knife (fixed or folding) so large it's no longer a knife? Cheers!
There was a question about Apple picking, I can say personally that I use my Benchmade Bugout for pumpkin picking. It gets through a thick vine like butter, and light so it stays out of the way.
As a lefty, I have to say you're wrong on the flipper tab thing. Having to carry in the wrong pocket can cause problems with some models. Namely, wider/larger knives have worn a hole in the middle of my pocket. Long hikes and hard labor, you really start to pay attention to details.
CORRECTION, DCA: You said the Cogent had a Nitro V blade. The more recently released Conspirator has a Nitro-V blade, but the Cogent has a 14C28N blade, one of those top shelf stainless legends like AEB-L which makes it a superb choice. The Nitro-V on my Conspirator seems to be about the same in edge holding, but it deserved a mention. Of course, Nitro-V and 14C28N are really similar, the Sandvik 14C28N has a little less silicon than Aldo Bruno's Nitro-V, but they're almost as close as 2 steels can be.
Never had a flipper mess up my pants, sometimes a clip will. The thing that's torn up my jeans more than anything is the emerson wave function. Totally unnecessary and tears pockets up
Im not a hunter, nor do i usually like clip point blades, but that Taggedout kinda speaks to me. I love my Bugout mini, and was going to get the full sized Bugout, but now im thinking i might go for the Taggedout instead. As much as i like thumb studs, i think its the thumb hole thats calling to me
I like the idea of using tougher steels with good edge retention, like CPM-M4 or 4V, to permit a bit thinner blades while allowing for more heavy use. Now Magnacut seems to be the key, so corrosion won’t be a factor either. It seems like the perfect steel for outdoor use. S90V, S110V, and Maxamet will still be superb for more medium duty slicers.
Yeah that's basically all magacut is good for. High end outdoor type fixed blades. Really doesn't make sense for use in smaller knives much less kitchen knives. For the price though, I'd rather get AEB-L all day. Magnacut just isn't worth the price premium.
The only time I could think of a flipper tab being hard on a pocket is if you were carry a right side tip down knife in your left pocket. If you carry tip up the flipper tab is in the bottom of your pocket and should be out of the way regardless of the side the clip is on.
It seems today the grail in steel is edge retention. But I find steels like D2 a bear to sharpen. So I don't sharpen then often enough. 1095 is so much easier I can quickly and easily get a razor edge. What's your thoughts on edge retention. Is there a super steel that's easier to sharpen?
High alloy steels are always going to be more work to sharpen. The chrome and vanadium in the steel gives it amazing wear resistance - which is the definition of what makes it hard to sharpen (abrasion resistance). Diamond stones help tremendously, and stropping is a must to get rid of the persistent burr that high alloy steels form. I know knife guys are all about the flavor of the month steel- but I’m going to tell you the truth- of all the attributes that make a great blade, the type of steel isn’t in the top ten. The so called super steels have useful attributes in certain uses, but they are absolutely not better at everything for every purpose. They can be more trouble than they are worth for a daily working knife unless sharpening is your primary hobby.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 Sounds pretty jaded. The point of high alloy steels is to minimize the amount of care you need to take with the knife. If you don’t have to worry about corrosion, or chipping, or dulling, then you can just cut things all day everyday…..
Have to agree, for thin and slicey, food friendly - the Opinels are hard to beat. The No. 8 has been sold as the "Picnic Knife". But, full-flat grind they are NOT. You can clearly see the full convex grind in the reflection as he handles it, it's a hallmark of the brand. It cuts much like a full-flat ground knife, it just isn't one.
Hey DCA, small question related to pocketclips. I carry knives daily and use them all the time unfortunately the pocketclips ruin the edge of the pocket of my jeans after some time. Are there any knife resistant jeans out there? Kind regards from Belgium!
Hi DCA I have a kinda two part question here both being centered around fixed blades. I have average-slightly larger then average hands myself and I was curious what handle material/type/size do you think is best for a day to day heavy use knife? Also about any suggestions for a solid 5-6 1/2in heavy use knife?
Hey DCA, my question is: why is it that kitchen knives steels and pocket knife steels seem totally different in terms of variety. Pocket knives have new steel on them all the time but kitchen knives seem to have the same steel for years? Why don’t kitchen knife companies use any “super steels” like like folding knife companies do?
Because people typically buy them in sets, and they would get prohibitively expensive. Most people don't want to spend thousands on knives that will scrape plates. There are chefs knives made of nicer material, but usually only serious cooks get those.
I went last year apple picking and I took my Miguel nieto cuchillo and was the perfect knife being a n695 stainless fixed blade but small enough to edc...!
Keep the great content up! Question for Thomas or DCA, is the cold steel triad lock also function as a bottle opener ? When the knife is folded the back of the blade and handle seems to be perfect for a bottle opener! Does that make it a multi tool ?
Hiyo DCA! New to the channel and very much enjoying it! Shhhhh, don't tell my wife! So we are also new owners of 10 chickens, they are laying hens but eventually will become meat in our freezer. 2 ?'s for ya.....1. Suggestions for a knife for sending them to chicken heaven and 2. One for field dressing them! Thanks and carry on!
As thin as possible. Thinner than most would prefer. But knives are cutting tools and I'm not prying, twisting, or hitting staples. I don't need to sacrifice performance to ensure it doesn't snap or chip.
Not sure measuring the thickness of a blade near the pivot area is really fair. Perhaps the middle area based on the cutting edge would be a fair compromise. Maybe that is what he is meaning.
Hey DCA and Thomas, I am a fellow knife seller, I get knives wholesale and sell them at farmers markets and special events in my "pop up shop" . My most serious question to You is, can You please raise Your prices as I can't afford to buy in the large bulk You can. This would really help my business a great deal! Thank You 🤠
Hi DCA, question about trying to find my first front flipper for my newly started collection. I try to keep a budget of around $150, and worry finger safety with a front flipper with liner and frame locks, since i'm losing the thumb guard that a traditional flipper tab gives me. What would you suggest for a front flipper that either has finger safe locking mechanisms, or has something similar to a traditional tab or at least a larger finger choil that can still act as a guard? Thanks. PS. I have looked at the Kizer Cormorant, but I typically don't like the look of trailing clip points, so bonus if it also is a drop point or spear point, since i think those are some of the best looking blade shapes.
Hopefully we get a Cruwear or Magnacut exclusive in the near future. That said CPM154 is one of the toughest stainless CPM steels on the market outside of Magnacut. Its about the same as S35VN.
@@arrowheadguys7637 I agree, like alot of Benchmade stuff, I feel like it's overpriced. $171 on knife center right now. It's a thin piece of 154 on an FRN/Grivory handle. It looks like an excellent tool, but it is a basic mass produced, mid tier knife. Plenty for my needs, but I really have a hard time justifying that price. I, often to my detriment, support American made products as often as possible, but this piece should really be about $100 even. Same with the S30v Bugouts & Grips.
As a former cutlery salesman, the only knife type and style I never handled were elegant Laguiole-style pocket food knives. At the time, consumer interest in the USA was far lower than I'd anticipated, so I never stocked and sold any. What can you recommend for me in various price ranges and are they actually better than a typical pocketknife for cutting meals at restaurants, making sandwiches, etc.?
After watching this video, I feel like I immediately need a search function in knife webshops, where I just type in what I want to do, ("uh, dissect squirrels, slice cucumbers, whittle tiny twigs, and stab fools"), and then the webshop pops out the knives with the steel, geometry etc. to match my needs
Im curious as to why the Tagged Out is $171.00 with Orange Grivory and a CPM 154 blade, but the KC Exclusive Griptilian is Red Grivory and a CPM 20CV blade for $150 or coated blade for $160. Practically identical blade lengths and overall lengths, same handle materials, both axis lock knives, and the Griptilian is a little thicker with .115 vs .090. Im not knocking 154 as I think it's a great steel, im just confused/surprised that it costs more to manufacture than 20cv
Brand new knife, butterfly tax, and overall inflation id say. The exclusive grip is also something they probably had to buy a large amount of, so taking less of a profit and getting more volume makes sense.
Hi DCA, I would like to find a fixed blade knife whose parents were the Benchmade Flyway and the SOG Altair FX. No Scandi edge please. Thanks and I love your videos.
Awesome episode as usual! I was looking for a knife recommendation :) Just picked up a giant mouse ace grand and absolutely love it! I was wondering if you knew of any similar knives in the danger kind of price range. Thanks!!
DCA! First off, your videos are awesome and I love all the information given. With that said, is there any good Hinderer XM 18 alternatives out there? I'm looking for something that's well made and I can customize as well to keep the itch at bay. Thanks!
Tip down carry, and flipper tabs are not an issue for your pocket. Knife reviewers have convinced manufacturers that we ALL want tip up, deep carry clips, on mini versions of a regular knives.
Great video as usual DCA. My question is in regards to using your knife, fixed or folder, to throw sparks off a fero rod. I know you want a carbon blade like 1095 or something similar, but will it work if your blade is coated? If any, which coatings would work?
Hi DCA, I’m looking for a lightweight EDC and I’ve narrowed it down to the We Banter vs the Spyderco Chaparral. Both are in the same price range. While lightweight is a consideration, being able to get a 4-finger grip is also high on my priority list. Does that make the Chaparral the winner with its forward finger choil? Would love your thoughts on how these two compare. Thanks.
Axial Shift is about the cheapest OTF I would say is "dependable". Its around $255 for the S35VN version, made in the US and most reviews say its similar or better quality than a Microtech. You have to look around to find them tho since Microtech threatened all their dealers to stop carrying them.
I’m curious to know why the Esse 6 gets more acclaim than the Rat 7. The Esse 6 and rat 7 seem to be very comparable, but every list of best camp knives seems for have an Esse but not the rat 7. What subtleties between the two make the Esse a more stand out option?
Probably the history between ESEE & Ontario. As far as I know, Ontario Knife Company (OKC) used to make the knives for Randall, hence the abbreviation "Randall Adventure Training" (RAT). There was some fallout for alleged production issues, as far as I recall, and Randall switched manufacturers. OKC continues to make the original designs, but ESEE is considered the "original" because it is now promoted by the original designer. That's as best as I can recall from the internet at the time - but search for it, you may get a more detailed & accurate account elsewhere.
Its the same knife, designed by the same people. But once Randalls Adventure Training (RAT) Group changed their name to ESEE they started making their own knives instead of having Ontario make them. I'm guessing the ESEE gets more love because its made by made by the same people who designed both knives and people would just rather get it from the source.
@@hanno_t Randall changed their name to ESEE, so they are the designers and "makers" of the knives. Rowen is the name of the company they have actually manufacturing (OEM) them for ESEE.
The Esse is 1095 whereas Ontario has been using 1075 in most of their knives for a couple years. Many are still listed 1095, but my research has shown them to be nearly exclusively using 1075. In usage of the same blade, my opinion is they're indistinguishable. Most people feel 1095 has significantly better edge retention, and 1075 is a bit tougher. In my experience they're too close to be different. Also Ontario has a poor Q.C. track record. Even grading on a curve for hard use, American made affordable beaters...it's not uncommon to see atrocious grinds, not edges, but primary bevels...way off. Among other less heinous, more easily fixed problems like very poor edges, bad tips, poor handle fitment e.t.c... They also come with nylon sheaths whereas Esse comes with Kydex. The newer Ontario nylon sheaths in their S.P. line are really good for nylon/at their price point. Not sure what the Rat is saddled up in nowadays. There's also a big deal made about Esse having a Rowen heat treat. Being a plain Carbon "old" steel, I'm not convinced they're really doing anything appreciably better than companies like Ontario. Tops differentially heat treats, & I could see that altering performance, but I think the Rowen heat treat is a marketing gimmick. None the less they're "Rowen" heat treated. Probably the biggest genuine selling point is that Esse has a full lifetime, no questions asked guarantee, against anything. If it breaks for any reason, they'll replace it. Seeing as that many people looking for this style of knife, intend to use it hard, that can quickly justify the near double price tag.
What is a knife like the Civivi Praxis, but in better steel for edge retention and toughness than 9cr? Handle material I prefer is Micarta (although G10, etc not a deal breaker). Price range up to $175.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of pivots with ball bearings vs. those with washers? And are there any other variants out there used in pivots?
Bearings are typically smoother/faster with that drop shut action that everyone wants, but the bearings can get gummed up with oil/grease/dirt etc. Washers are better for dirtier environments but are harder to get that super smooth action on without just a shade of bade play
Am I understanding right? A particular steel at lower hardness is tougher that the same steel at a higher hardness? Does that mean that between powder steel and ingot steel at the same HRC, the powder steel would be tougher?
Hey DCA. I own a Condor Mini Duku and love it. I consider it a small machete, a friend called it a big pirate chopper knife. How do you classify a blade in those categories? Thx
I am interested in utilitarian quality budget hand axe for camping and splitting kindling. Can you do a segment on some suggestions? I don't want to spend over $60.
Hi DCA, love this series. I live in a hot, humid city (Houston). Can you please recommend a folding knife that I could leave in the center console of my SUV year round without worrying about corrosion etc.? Thanks!
Hey David, I've recently improved my finances to the point where I may be able to finally budget for a WE knife. I own 2 civivi knives and the feel and action have convinced me that a WE might be worth the price. What WE would you recommend for a person that will most likely only ever get 1 WE knife. Style wise I love the elementum button lock, the exarch, the ka-bar Dozier, and the QSP Penguin. Price isn't a factor. Without much knowledge of their line I've been interested in the Roxy 3 but I'm on the fence about it's overall design. Also, and please be honest, should I just buy a drop bear instead of a WE. I'm very tempted by that particular knife, some folks call it a sling blade, I call it a kizer blade mm hmm.
OMHO but it's hard to go wrong with a WE knife. Their quality is excellent especially for their price. I can assure you that they all work and cut well. As I say to most knife users - YOU need to enjoy the knife you're buying. So take a deep breath and think about what size, shape & materials you like and then take a look. A few that might be worth a look - Kitefin, Arsenal & Esprit. These are all series with many options. I hope you enjoy!!
@@realbroggo I've watched reviews of these knives in the past, the esprit and kitefin are very much to my taste. After a quick look I think I'm going with the Esprit, after I got my exarch I'm starting to think I prefer front flippers to every other opening method, I promise that is not meant as a slight to you and your front flipper maladroitedness. Thank you for your answer, love your videos!
@@crookmcstealie Excellent!! (Please note that I am not the most excellent DCA - just another knife loving David.) I hope you enjoy your purchase. Have a great day.
@@realbroggo that's funny, I saw a "David" answer me and I thought "that's nice he's helping me right away!". Regardless of which David you are, I really appreciate the advice. I was starting to think about the Roxy 3 because it's a front flipper and I love my exarch, but after looking at your recommendations I was reminded that the esprit is a front flipper as well, and it's much more my style than a Roxy (based on aesthetics anyway). Thanks for all your attention it was helpful and appreciated!
Sharpening angle is also significant. A 20* angle will not last as long as a 17* angle on the same knife, when cutting things like paper, cardboard, rope, etc.
17°'s are significantly more fragile. In my experience what you pick up in retention & sharpness is not worth the chippy-ness. In my experience 20° on a nicely thin behind the edge knife is the best compromise.
@@adamjames1375 If you are cutting paper, cardboard, and rope, you shouldn’t be chipping anything on your knife. If you are, you might find a better blade steel….
@@JoshSweet When's the last time you cut a rope? Let me guess... it was Milspec 550. And paper? I have Damascus VG10 Hecho en Japan Oragami scissors for that. So... It's really more about seperating tape & breaking down cardboard Amazon packages. Maybe even the occasional blister pack. So good sir... may I suggest to you a lesser steel. In the form of a flippity floppity button lockity folding utility razor.
@@adamjames1375 Some of the best EDC knife enthusiasts and sharpening hobbyists use 17-20* for most pocket knives. What are you cutting with your knife? Why would it chip from everyday use?
@@JoshSweet I'm just being a butthole. 17° is likely ideal for many tasks. I've just gone a bit too acute a few times & things got chippy. Truth is I was free handing on a dmt stone & for all I know it was 14°. I just like to heckle the echo chamber knaf communitay. Carry on & Cheerio old sport!
DCA - how much does country of origin matter when it comes to choosing a knife? Is it all personal preference or is there one country putting out superior product?
D.C. with all the awesome new handles in the knife world right now, why in the world would somebody want a frame lock knife with the whole half a handle thing?
Hi DCA - here is my question: is CPM-Magnacut the steel of the future? Do you anticipate a bunch of new releases later this year and into next year? As of now your website has only about 30 knives featuring this interesting steel. Thanks!
I do think we'll see a lot of Magnacut in the future once companies use up all the steel they already had pre-purchased, however I don't think it will dominate the market since it doesn't excel in edge retention compared to a lot of the other super steels, and I think edge retention is probably the characteristic most people care about.
If distal taper describes the blade getting thinner as it goes from the handle to the tip; what is the proper term for a blade that gets thinner from the front of the handle to the butt of the handle, to more balance the weight of the knife?
Hi DCA! Murray Carter has sharpening tutorials on TH-cam where he recommends thinning the blade stock with every sharpening. In the modern knife collecting universe I feel like this practice would reduce the value of a piece. What is your opinion on thinning blade stock when sharpening at home? Do you thin down your knives? Are there knives you would or would not thin?
If you want to thin down the blade stock I would send it out for a regrind by a professional. Many times I've seen this INCREASE the value of a knife. Doing it yourself while sharpening is likely going to decrease the value of your knife.
How much thicker does a knife blade have to be than a thinner knife (all other factors being equal) before the advantage in "robustness" is noticeable, practical, or significant? Does something like this exist, or is it all just "bro science"?
![⚔️จำกัดเวลา⚔️ [พากย์ไทย] ซอร์ดอาร์ตออนไลน์ ซีซั่น 1 - ฉบับมัดรวมทุกตอน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ohkfBVDXLSA/mqdefault.jpg)
Tougher blade, thinner steel. Modern super steels should be used to make very thin slicey knives. Even survival knives can be much thinner with crazy strong modern steels
Benchmade has really embraced this philosophy with M4 and Cruwear in the Bailout, Shootout and Anonimus.
A heavier .250" stock survival can be desirable in a lot of situations for the weight alone.
Thats not entirely accurate. Sometimes a thicker blade can have certain benefits. For example, if you want a folding knife to have some better outdoor utility, a thicker and heavier blade can be helpful. Whether its for push cuts or light delimbing, an AD 10 will do those jobs better than a Bugout.
Also, sometimes you want a thicker tip for drilling or prying rather than a thinner tip for stabbing penetration.
Different things are different, and there are always compromises in any knife.
All comes down to purpose. I see 'super steels' creating more options rather than replacing existing ones. For example, some users out there might have been avoiding survival style knives due to size & weight. With super steels allowing for thinner & lighter blades, maybe these users now have options that interest them. I suspect cost will be an issue for larger blades as super steels are $$$ and often hard to work with.Great point though & have a great day!
@@tarinindell8217 prying with any knife is not something you should be doing. Thats not what a knife is designed to do.
Also the OP is just _suggesting_ that there should be more options to knives that are made thinner with all the modern super steels available. With that being said i tend to agree with his opinion, if your knife needs to be thicker the chances are it is because its made with an inferior type of steel, of which will more likely dull and or break, especially if your using it to pry open anything...
If you want a really thin blade stock on a knife you can lock, Opinel is the way to go! Available in all sizes! 😊
Just made my 1st of hopefully many knifecenter purchases. Please please keep your 3 guys that make the videos as long as you can. These videos make me happy. Thank you knifecenter for quality content.
🤣Dude the animated intro is so dumb! I love it haha. I used to watch knife banter, but I don't like it anymore since zac and ben left. This is all I watch now 🤘
Right down my alley! 😂👌
I've never had a problem with flipper tabs tearing pockets. I prefer opening holes and front flippers because they allow the knife to lay flat on a cutting surface, in most cases
For the guy asked about thin blade knife I would recommend the Kershaw Cargo, which its blade less than 0.125' thick, has quite similar blade geometry to the hogue mentioned by DCA and also use back lock that in my opinion, in case of thin blades knives are quite more safe than liner lock. That is because liner lock holds the blade in place only on 30-50% of its width while back lock locks the whole width of the blade base. In cases of thin blades this is more significant. Check it out...
Dunno if thats really an issue considering the blade stock is still thicker than the liner stock.
@@arrowheadguys7637
Sure it is. The less bearing surface, the less force it will require to fail. I'm not sure if it scales linearly, or to what degree, what level of "thinness" becomes a real world problem.
Nonetheless, ...all other variables being reasonably equal...less mass/contact area will fail sooner.
@@adamjames1375 The blade stock doesn't equate into it from any of the liner locks I've seen. The liner is thinner than the blade anyways, so the bearing surface is 100% based on the liner profile.
@@arrowheadguys7637
As an rough example,...
If a thinner liner is bearing on a thinner blade, depending on its engagement depth, it will have to travel less far, than a larger/thicker liner, on a larger/thicker bearing/blade. It's also less mass, less rigid, and provides less friction.
The whole issue could be avoided if the blade was milled so that the pivot end was thicker, though it would increase the manufacturing cost.
I'm not trying to be a jerk here...and we could debate "how strong the liner lock needs to be" ... but less mass, all other things being equal, will equate to less strength. The only question really is "Is the less strength still sufficient?"
There's definitely ways to solve this.
One way would be to increase the liners thickness and increase its' pocket size within the handle, so that there's less room to travel. Also increasing the degree of the springs/liners tension, while adding a bit of jimping/ access relief to offset the stiffness.
Thanks for explaining the knife geometry! I'm glad there was a bit more to it than face value.
There wasn't and isn't? I laughed out loud at that question honestly
Ah - no the media being cut isn't. Geometry that's separate
@@veraxknives0331 lol
@@DullPoints I couldn't tell if you were being sarcastic or not 😅 sorry brother
New to collecting. Just got a Spyderco Delica. .098 in (about 2.5 mm.) NOW I know what a slicer is. Big difference from my other knives. Great video and great comments. Thanks All!
The Kershaw Dividend is one of my favorite thin bladed knives at 3" long. I'm usually not a huge fan of assisted openings, but as for the Dividend, it's barely noticeable and easy to close one-handed.
Excellent explanation of different cutting geometries, DCA! 👌🏼👍🏼
Hey DCA…When I read Matt’s question “Does Blade height matter? I was thinking of blades of same length and thickness. What height would be best? That would be based on intended use. A blade with more height would be better for something like batoning if that is your thing because you would be able to pound it in deeper before the back edge became flush with the wood 🪵 you were splitting or whatever. So height would be an advantage. But a shorter blade height wise would be better for delicate carving like carving out a spoon, making delicate trap triggers etc. Also “taller blades would be inherently heavier and “shorter” would be inherently lighter given the same length and thickness.
I've had trouble with the pocket clips against the textured handle damaging pockets, but never with a flipper. Carrying without a clip would leave wear marks on the outside of my work pants, just because I always carried in the same position so bumping into stuff over time wore the denim thin.
Wrangler Riggs are a good affordable work pant & they have a reinforced patch on the front right pocket.
Love the info given and show. I have a question on thin vs thick blades - you give examples for thin blade uses (letter opening, cardboard, detail work), but about thick blade examples? The blade is tougher and more robust. Batoning is obvious, but I am talking about everyday use where one would say, " I better breakout the thicker blade for this job" or perhaps a profession. Thanks.
It would be more fitted to chopping / prying tasks to utilize that. Also, thicker blades are more resistant to chipping and if you do dull/chip the blade you have a longer "lifespan" of sharpening it, though it will be more difficult.
I’m no expert, but a knife lover nonetheless.
The most common tasks I could think of, in which having a thicker blade would pose as an advantage, would be tasks relating to chopping, bushcraft, and the materials you will be cutting.
Chopping tasks could include butchering, removing something connected by a stubborn material (think a thick plastic or something), preparing game, or even cutting of a thick rope.
Bushcraft tasks could include clearing light shrubbery, carving, shaving bark off of a log-tasks that may benefit from the heavier blade.
Lastly, durability. If you are somewhere in which you may drop the knife, or if dropping it may be a bit of a hard drop, the thicker blade may help prevent chipping or damage-depending on the steel of course. Another useful note is the ability to make wider cuts due to the blades thickness, sometimes a razor thin cut is simply not what you are looking for.
Hopefully that helped, though knifecenter will obviously be more knowledgeable than I am, and I am in no way an expert, not even close.
Would love to see you make a guide on heat-treatment of steels, since it is a very important aspect of knife blades! Great videos as always!
Don't ask a salesman. I'm sure you can find this info.
Get to the chopper is the best blade related pun I have heard all year! Well played, sir!
I've never had flipper damage yet. I have had significant pocket wear from several thumb stud knives. one of them being my very loved Ruike trekker. It begins to tear the stitching of where the pocket material joins the leg of the jeans. maybe someday ill modify the stud, but i still love the tool so much that its my go to edc for most occasions.
Firstly, blade & handle size & shape depend on your hands. That's why it's different for everyone.
But -
There is an idea blade width - for EDC where length is shorter. I can't give you a measurement range, as I don't really have something for that (as I don't take measurements) But think medium-large folder blade, if the gentleman/office carry knives are short - blade height-wise.
The idea here is you don't want it to be tall but you want enough room for the edge to thin out just the right amount. But also, IMO, with the perfect drop point being the most versatile blade shape there is - the perfect drop point being low curved tip, just enough belly somewhere in the middle of the blade but maybe towards the tip-side a little, & downward straight edge towards the back that leads into the belly. The closest thing I've found to this blade shape is the Nessie from Urban EDC Supply, if you need a live example of what I mean, but with less belly than the Nessie has. (If they had dialed the belly back a bit, it would have been the perfect drop point.)
You also want the blade long enough to properly house all three of those functions, but only just, since the longer you make the blade past your comfort area, the more cumbersome using the blade will become - unto using both hands to properly use a blade once it becomes too long for non-sketchy use with one hand. Now, that range is different for everyone depending on hand size.
I find the Swiss Army standard blade shape hard to beat.
Thin Full flat grind, not "tall", slightly downward facing point with a dash of belly, distal taper, with a sharpening choil.
I'd love to see one scaled up to 4" long blade, around 3/4" tall and around an 1/8" thick.
@@adamjames1375 I have a couple & I've always worried about snapping the blade. I also wish it had a proper tip as the tip is the most useful part of a knife. It being mostly straight-ish edge with belly on the end, I find it hard to utilize the belly for surface cutting even with my stocky hands, which is the blade category I feel it competes in. I've always thought of it as a backup blade, personally.
What do you tend to use them for?
@@Krusher_Knave
To tell you the truth, not much.
I use a small folding button lock utility razor for the vast majority of my day to day utility tasks.
While I really like the Swiss Army profile, I never really choose it as a tool. Outside of the kitchen, I almost always use a utility razor, when outdoors I am still really fond of my old Buck 119.
In the typical swiss army size, I just don't really have an ideal task for them. I occasionally carry and use a Spartan model & found it very nimble just a bit small.
But as a "do all" type folder with a 4" sized up, similarly proportioned blade, a larger, thicker ergonomic Frn handle, I think I'd use it often. I like the downward tip/slight belly. For cleaning fish/game and being a general kitchen utility knife, I think it could strike a nice balance. The downward tip is kind of a blend between a spear and a sheapsfoot. The distal taper and general thin stock help offset the tip for piercing and improve slashing/skinning strokes.
I'm a Fan of thin knives, like Kephart profiles, Old Hickory/Green Rivers, The Mora Kansbol/2000 is an outstanding tool.
I think a 4" scaled up folding Swiss Army single blade would be a sweet outdoors/camp companion knife.
@@adamjames1375 I like the way you think. I mainly use the QSP Penguin as my utility knife of choice, even though I wish it was a fixed blade so it was much easier to clean & had much less probability of breaking due to the many parts of a folder. Much less issues to have happen with fixed blades. The Penguin is the perfect utility knife shape, IMO.
Does the Buck 119 have a useful tip? Is one necessary for outdoor tasks? (I don't have this lifestyle.)
Also, have you seen Jack Wolf Knives? He just released one with a similar blade shape to SAK. Also, the WESN Henry might be a blade shape you're interested in.
@@Krusher_Knave
I have seen Jack Wolf knives, they look great but are a little pricey for me & while I can appreciate a non locking Swiss Army knife for $20 or so...as a tool I can't see the value in a Jack Wolf. They are super cool & sexy, but I'm not a collector and as a tool, there's just much better, more affordable utilitarian options.
The Buck 119 is an old design 6" fixed blade. Bowie style clip point, hunting knife. It's nicely hollow ground with a fairly stout spine.
It's very slicy & strong enough. Not a heavy duty big log busting battoner.
Mine has basic 420 H.C. steel which I've been happy with, though you can upgrade. It's pretty huge for most hunting tasks, but if paired with a smaller blade it can make quick work of big jobs. Works fairly well with fish.
There's just something about it. On paper it's pretty mediocre, the handle is slippery. It's just a sexy blade and I've become so familiar with it that I just like her more as the years go on.
... I'll have to check out the Penguin.
That Benchmade Tagout looks awesome.
For me geometry is a blend of: 1) blade length + 2) blade height + 3) blade stock thickness + 4) blade edge thickness + 5) blade shape. Changes to any of these changes the geometry. As DCA often says, everything's a compromise. eg. thick blade may be stronger but be less slicey. (Steel aside) Blade geometry will usually determine: 1) lateral strength ie. resistance to bending + 2) edge cutting performance ie. ease of moving through material + 3) cutting efficiency ie. what type of cutting it does best ie. push cuts? skinning? food prep? Sharp blades everyone.
"Getting to the chopper" !!!! left me speechless just shaking my head Thank You
Flipper tabs messing up pockets-- I have thumb studs that have torn up my pockets but no flipper tabs.
Most serious Question: Too many mosquitos in my house that fly around from room to room. I don't want to kill them so what would be the best knife to cut off their wings so they cannot fly anymore?
Katana best...
Thank you DCA for this video absolutely love thinner geometry knives. That Benchmade looked nice.
I'd love a tagged out but I think I'll wait till they come in g10 or until there are aftermarket scales
Never had any problems with a "Pocket Pecker" but like DCA said,the clip can eat your pockets,like my Ultramar Redencion,sturdy firm clip that likes to get stuck on the pocket edge,or any excessive material in the pocket.
I carry a Kershaw Leek assisted opening knife, it has a thumbstud and a flipper tab, it's razor sharp,& it's got a very keen point, and it opens as fast as a switchblade
As far as flipper tabs I've never had an issue, however some thumb studs have gotten caught when I pull them out.
Greetings David, Thomas & Seth. Thank you for the work you do in creating these videos. They're always informative and entertaining. May I ask, when is a knife (fixed or folding) so large it's no longer a knife? Cheers!
Oooooooh thats a really good question. When does it stop being a knife and start being a machete or a sword? Prepare for the weeds on that one!
@@arrowheadguys7637 I'm with you AG!! Get the whipper snipper (or in the USA I believe you refer to a weed whacker) and hedge sheers out!! 🌿🌿🌿🌿🌿
Always good to hear from you D.C.A.🔪👍
There was a question about Apple picking, I can say personally that I use my Benchmade Bugout for pumpkin picking. It gets through a thick vine like butter, and light so it stays out of the way.
Lol Bugout
As a lefty, I have to say you're wrong on the flipper tab thing. Having to carry in the wrong pocket can cause problems with some models. Namely, wider/larger knives have worn a hole in the middle of my pocket. Long hikes and hard labor, you really start to pay attention to details.
Maybe you just wear tight pants.
@@Leftyotism lol nice
That avispa comes in SK5 it's lovely
That chopper looks like a monster 😍
CORRECTION, DCA: You said the Cogent had a Nitro V blade. The more recently released Conspirator has a Nitro-V blade, but the Cogent has a 14C28N blade, one of those top shelf stainless legends like AEB-L which makes it a superb choice. The Nitro-V on my Conspirator seems to be about the same in edge holding, but it deserved a mention. Of course, Nitro-V and 14C28N are really similar, the Sandvik 14C28N has a little less silicon than Aldo Bruno's Nitro-V, but they're almost as close as 2 steels can be.
Thin for the Win! if I need thick I just use a hatchet.
Never had a flipper mess up my pants, sometimes a clip will. The thing that's torn up my jeans more than anything is the emerson wave function. Totally unnecessary and tears pockets up
@Ma Duece31 I love some Kizer and Civivi though
Im not a hunter, nor do i usually like clip point blades, but that Taggedout kinda speaks to me. I love my Bugout mini, and was going to get the full sized Bugout, but now im thinking i might go for the Taggedout instead. As much as i like thumb studs, i think its the thumb hole thats calling to me
I like the idea of using tougher steels with good edge retention, like CPM-M4 or 4V, to permit a bit thinner blades while allowing for more heavy use. Now Magnacut seems to be the key, so corrosion won’t be a factor either. It seems like the perfect steel for outdoor use. S90V, S110V, and Maxamet will still be superb for more medium duty slicers.
Yeah that's basically all magacut is good for. High end outdoor type fixed blades. Really doesn't make sense for use in smaller knives much less kitchen knives. For the price though, I'd rather get AEB-L all day. Magnacut just isn't worth the price premium.
The only time I could think of a flipper tab being hard on a pocket is if you were carry a right side tip down knife in your left pocket. If you carry tip up the flipper tab is in the bottom of your pocket and should be out of the way regardless of the side the clip is on.
Al Mar ultralight titanium flipper tab ate a hole in in my jeans from edc carry, doesn't even have sharp jimping but like micro jimping
It seems today the grail in steel is edge retention. But I find steels like D2 a bear to sharpen. So I don't sharpen then often enough. 1095 is so much easier I can quickly and easily get a razor edge. What's your thoughts on edge retention. Is there a super steel that's easier to sharpen?
Use diamond sharpeners, start with a 100 grit then work up to 300, 600, 1500. They can sharpen super steels that make D2 seem easy…
High alloy steels are always going to be more work to sharpen. The chrome and vanadium in the steel gives it amazing wear resistance - which is the definition of what makes it hard to sharpen (abrasion resistance). Diamond stones help tremendously, and stropping is a must to get rid of the persistent burr that high alloy steels form.
I know knife guys are all about the flavor of the month steel- but I’m going to tell you the truth- of all the attributes that make a great blade, the type of steel isn’t in the top ten. The so called super steels have useful attributes in certain uses, but they are absolutely not better at everything for every purpose. They can be more trouble than they are worth for a daily working knife unless sharpening is your primary hobby.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 Sounds pretty jaded.
The point of high alloy steels is to minimize the amount of care you need to take with the knife.
If you don’t have to worry about corrosion, or chipping, or dulling, then you can just cut things all day everyday…..
Have to agree, for thin and slicey, food friendly - the Opinels are hard to beat. The No. 8 has been sold as the "Picnic Knife". But, full-flat grind they are NOT. You can clearly see the full convex grind in the reflection as he handles it, it's a hallmark of the brand. It cuts much like a full-flat ground knife, it just isn't one.
Hey DCA, small question related to pocketclips. I carry knives daily and use them all the time unfortunately the pocketclips ruin the edge of the pocket of my jeans after some time. Are there any knife resistant jeans out there? Kind regards from Belgium!
I don't really have a question I'm just in love with that gorgeous new artisan cutlery proponent
i carry a top flipper (Civivi Lumi) so no problem with it messing up the pocket
Hi DCA I have a kinda two part question here both being centered around fixed blades. I have average-slightly larger then average hands myself and I was curious what handle material/type/size do you think is best for a day to day heavy use knife? Also about any suggestions for a solid 5-6 1/2in heavy use knife?
Hey DCA, my question is: why is it that kitchen knives steels and pocket knife steels seem totally different in terms of variety. Pocket knives have new steel on them all the time but kitchen knives seem to have the same steel for years? Why don’t kitchen knife companies use any “super steels” like like folding knife companies do?
Because people typically buy them in sets, and they would get prohibitively expensive. Most people don't want to spend thousands on knives that will scrape plates. There are chefs knives made of nicer material, but usually only serious cooks get those.
The Deka in Magnacut is a bugout killer!
I went last year apple picking and I took my Miguel nieto cuchillo and was the perfect knife being a n695 stainless fixed blade but small enough to edc...!
Keep the great content up! Question for Thomas or DCA, is the cold steel triad lock also function as a bottle opener ? When the knife is folded the back of the blade and handle seems to be perfect for a bottle opener! Does that make it a multi tool ?
Flipper tabs are nice. I prefer them over thumb studs. Thumb studs tear more pockets than any other opening method i think.
Hiyo DCA! New to the channel and very much enjoying it! Shhhhh, don't tell my wife! So we are also new owners of 10 chickens, they are laying hens but eventually will become meat in our freezer. 2 ?'s for ya.....1. Suggestions for a knife for sending them to chicken heaven and 2. One for field dressing them! Thanks and carry on!
Never had a flipper tab destroy my pockets. Now handle textures under the pocket clip oh ya I have lots of damage from that.
No flipper tab issue. Only clip wear issues.
Hoping for thumbstuds and different handle options for the taggedout
As thin as possible. Thinner than most would prefer. But knives are cutting tools and I'm not prying, twisting, or hitting staples. I don't need to sacrifice performance to ensure it doesn't snap or chip.
Never had a flipper issue.
It is always the clip and texture that blows out my pants.
Its usually the Taco Bell that does is for me...
@@arrowheadguys7637 lmao
I remove the clips
@@mylesgalos6465 rebel!
Not sure measuring the thickness of a blade near the pivot area is really fair. Perhaps the middle area based on the cutting edge would be a fair compromise. Maybe that is what he is meaning.
Could you do a video on hard use wood working knifes? Thanks DCA and Thomas
Hey DCA and Thomas, I am a fellow knife seller, I get knives wholesale and sell them at farmers markets and special events in my "pop up shop" . My most serious question to You is, can You please raise Your prices as I can't afford to buy in the large bulk You can. This would really help my business a great deal! Thank You 🤠
Hi DCA, question about trying to find my first front flipper for my newly started collection. I try to keep a budget of around $150, and worry finger safety with a front flipper with liner and frame locks, since i'm losing the thumb guard that a traditional flipper tab gives me. What would you suggest for a front flipper that either has finger safe locking mechanisms, or has something similar to a traditional tab or at least a larger finger choil that can still act as a guard? Thanks. PS. I have looked at the Kizer Cormorant, but I typically don't like the look of trailing clip points, so bonus if it also is a drop point or spear point, since i think those are some of the best looking blade shapes.
😂 "Get to da choppah!!"
7:32 What's so bad about japanese made knives? 😱
I love my Higonokami very much!
He just said it was a good value for a knife made in Japan. That was a compliment.
@@arrowheadguys7637 I see.
I’d really prefer a more premium/stronger steel on the tagged out being the blade is so thin. That tip would just be not trustworthy to my needs.
Hopefully we get a Cruwear or Magnacut exclusive in the near future. That said CPM154 is one of the toughest stainless CPM steels on the market outside of Magnacut. Its about the same as S35VN.
It looks excellent for a fish and game knife.
@@adamjames1375 Yup, thats definitely what it was designed for, CPM-154 was a good base steel for that purpose IMO.
@@arrowheadguys7637
I agree, like alot of Benchmade stuff, I feel like it's overpriced.
$171 on knife center right now.
It's a thin piece of 154 on an FRN/Grivory handle.
It looks like an excellent tool, but it is a basic mass produced, mid tier knife. Plenty for my needs, but I really have a hard time justifying that price.
I, often to my detriment, support American made products as often as possible, but this piece should really be about $100 even.
Same with the S30v Bugouts & Grips.
As a former cutlery salesman, the only knife type and style I never handled were elegant Laguiole-style pocket food knives. At the time, consumer interest in the USA was far lower than I'd anticipated, so I never stocked and sold any. What can you recommend for me in various price ranges and are they actually better than a typical pocketknife for cutting meals at restaurants, making sandwiches, etc.?
I've been wanting to pick one up myself, they're on sale at the moment for Labor Day.
Cold Steel Kudu
@@mdubb4855 I was surprised how close this comes to what I'm seeking - and how affordable it is. Thanks for the recommendation!
After watching this video, I feel like I immediately need a search function in knife webshops, where I just type in what I want to do, ("uh, dissect squirrels, slice cucumbers, whittle tiny twigs, and stab fools"), and then the webshop pops out the knives with the steel, geometry etc. to match my needs
Those are the hunting, food prep, bushcraft and tacticool categories on most websites.
Im curious as to why the Tagged Out is $171.00 with Orange Grivory and a CPM 154 blade, but the KC Exclusive Griptilian is Red Grivory and a CPM 20CV blade for $150 or coated blade for $160. Practically identical blade lengths and overall lengths, same handle materials, both axis lock knives, and the Griptilian is a little thicker with .115 vs .090. Im not knocking 154 as I think it's a great steel, im just confused/surprised that it costs more to manufacture than 20cv
Brand new knife, butterfly tax, and overall inflation id say. The exclusive grip is also something they probably had to buy a large amount of, so taking less of a profit and getting more volume makes sense.
Hi DCA, I would like to find a fixed blade knife whose parents were the Benchmade Flyway and the SOG Altair FX. No Scandi edge please. Thanks and I love your videos.
Awesome episode as usual! I was looking for a knife recommendation :)
Just picked up a giant mouse ace grand and absolutely love it! I was wondering if you knew of any similar knives in the danger kind of price range. Thanks!!
DCA! First off, your videos are awesome and I love all the information given. With that said, is there any good Hinderer XM 18 alternatives out there? I'm looking for something that's well made and I can customize as well to keep the itch at bay. Thanks!
The taggout isn't a thin knife at the .89 inch blade mentioned.
Tip down carry, and flipper tabs are not an issue for your pocket. Knife reviewers have convinced manufacturers that we ALL want tip up, deep carry clips, on mini versions of a regular knives.
Great video as usual DCA. My question is in regards to using your knife, fixed or folder, to throw sparks off a fero rod. I know you want a carbon blade like 1095 or something similar, but will it work if your blade is coated? If any, which coatings would work?
Hi DCA, I’m looking for a lightweight EDC and I’ve narrowed it down to the We Banter vs the Spyderco Chaparral. Both are in the same price range. While lightweight is a consideration, being able to get a 4-finger grip is also high on my priority list. Does that make the Chaparral the winner with its forward finger choil? Would love your thoughts on how these two compare. Thanks.
Hey DCA could you please do a video over quality Italian stilettos style knives!
Loved this episode. Question is there any inexpensive yet dependable OTFs out there.
Axial Shift is about the cheapest OTF I would say is "dependable". Its around $255 for the S35VN version, made in the US and most reviews say its similar or better quality than a Microtech. You have to look around to find them tho since Microtech threatened all their dealers to stop carrying them.
I’m curious to know why the Esse 6 gets more acclaim than the Rat 7. The Esse 6 and rat 7 seem to be very comparable, but every list of best camp knives seems for have an Esse but not the rat 7. What subtleties between the two make the Esse a more stand out option?
Probably the history between ESEE & Ontario. As far as I know, Ontario Knife Company (OKC) used to make the knives for Randall, hence the abbreviation "Randall Adventure Training" (RAT). There was some fallout for alleged production issues, as far as I recall, and Randall switched manufacturers. OKC continues to make the original designs, but ESEE is considered the "original" because it is now promoted by the original designer.
That's as best as I can recall from the internet at the time - but search for it, you may get a more detailed & accurate account elsewhere.
Its the same knife, designed by the same people. But once Randalls Adventure Training (RAT) Group changed their name to ESEE they started making their own knives instead of having Ontario make them. I'm guessing the ESEE gets more love because its made by made by the same people who designed both knives and people would just rather get it from the source.
@@hanno_t Randall changed their name to ESEE, so they are the designers and "makers" of the knives. Rowen is the name of the company they have actually manufacturing (OEM) them for ESEE.
I believe Esse’s warranty is better. I’ve seen reviews on TH-cam and if it breaks they replace it no questions.
The Esse is 1095 whereas Ontario has been using 1075 in most of their knives for a couple years. Many are still listed 1095, but my research has shown them to be nearly exclusively using 1075.
In usage of the same blade, my opinion is they're indistinguishable.
Most people feel 1095 has significantly better edge retention, and 1075 is a bit tougher. In my experience they're too close to be different.
Also Ontario has a poor Q.C. track record. Even grading on a curve for hard use, American made affordable beaters...it's not uncommon to see atrocious grinds, not edges, but primary bevels...way off. Among other less heinous, more easily fixed problems like very poor edges, bad tips, poor handle fitment e.t.c...
They also come with nylon sheaths whereas Esse comes with Kydex.
The newer Ontario nylon sheaths in their S.P. line are really good for nylon/at their price point. Not sure what the Rat is saddled up in nowadays.
There's also a big deal made about Esse having a Rowen heat treat.
Being a plain Carbon "old" steel, I'm not convinced they're really doing anything appreciably better than companies like Ontario.
Tops differentially heat treats, & I could see that altering performance, but I think the Rowen heat treat is a marketing gimmick.
None the less they're "Rowen" heat treated.
Probably the biggest genuine selling point is that Esse has a full lifetime, no questions asked guarantee, against anything. If it breaks for any reason, they'll replace it.
Seeing as that many people looking for this style of knife, intend to use it hard, that can quickly justify the near double price tag.
What is a knife like the Civivi Praxis, but in better steel for edge retention and toughness than 9cr? Handle material I prefer is Micarta (although G10, etc not a deal breaker). Price range up to $175.
Can a knife be too sharp to use for eating food on a plate as you might cut through the ceramic or possibly even through your cooking pot or pan.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of pivots with ball bearings vs. those with washers? And are there any other variants out there used in pivots?
Bearings are typically smoother/faster with that drop shut action that everyone wants, but the bearings can get gummed up with oil/grease/dirt etc. Washers are better for dirtier environments but are harder to get that super smooth action on without just a shade of bade play
the benchmade taggedout looks good
I almost want to buy one just to swap those orange backspacers on to another knife. Nobody makes orange look good like BM
Am I understanding right? A particular steel at lower hardness is tougher that the same steel at a higher hardness? Does that mean that between powder steel and ingot steel at the same HRC, the powder steel would be tougher?
Tops storm vector for the Predator!
Thank you DCA
Hey DCA. I own a Condor Mini Duku and love it. I consider it a small machete, a friend called it a big pirate chopper knife. How do you classify a blade in those categories? Thx
I am interested in utilitarian quality budget hand axe for camping and splitting kindling. Can you do a segment on some suggestions? I don't want to spend over $60.
Search the youtubes for “harbor freight hatchet.” Best $12 I ever spent.
Hi DCA, love this series. I live in a hot, humid city (Houston). Can you please recommend a folding knife that I could leave in the center console of my SUV year round without worrying about corrosion etc.? Thanks!
Any of the spyderco salt series should do you fine.
Hey David, I've recently improved my finances to the point where I may be able to finally budget for a WE knife. I own 2 civivi knives and the feel and action have convinced me that a WE might be worth the price. What WE would you recommend for a person that will most likely only ever get 1 WE knife. Style wise I love the elementum button lock, the exarch, the ka-bar Dozier, and the QSP Penguin. Price isn't a factor. Without much knowledge of their line I've been interested in the Roxy 3 but I'm on the fence about it's overall design. Also, and please be honest, should I just buy a drop bear instead of a WE. I'm very tempted by that particular knife, some folks call it a sling blade, I call it a kizer blade mm hmm.
OMHO but it's hard to go wrong with a WE knife. Their quality is excellent especially for their price. I can assure you that they all work and cut well. As I say to most knife users - YOU need to enjoy the knife you're buying. So take a deep breath and think about what size, shape & materials you like and then take a look. A few that might be worth a look - Kitefin, Arsenal & Esprit. These are all series with many options. I hope you enjoy!!
@@realbroggo I've watched reviews of these knives in the past, the esprit and kitefin are very much to my taste. After a quick look I think I'm going with the Esprit, after I got my exarch I'm starting to think I prefer front flippers to every other opening method, I promise that is not meant as a slight to you and your front flipper maladroitedness. Thank you for your answer, love your videos!
@@crookmcstealie Excellent!! (Please note that I am not the most excellent DCA - just another knife loving David.) I hope you enjoy your purchase. Have a great day.
@@realbroggo that's funny, I saw a "David" answer me and I thought "that's nice he's helping me right away!". Regardless of which David you are, I really appreciate the advice. I was starting to think about the Roxy 3 because it's a front flipper and I love my exarch, but after looking at your recommendations I was reminded that the esprit is a front flipper as well, and it's much more my style than a Roxy (based on aesthetics anyway). Thanks for all your attention it was helpful and appreciated!
@@crookmcstealie You're absolutely welcome!!
Sharpening angle is also significant. A 20* angle will not last as long as a 17* angle on the same knife, when cutting things like paper, cardboard, rope, etc.
17°'s are significantly more fragile. In my experience what you pick up in retention & sharpness is not worth the chippy-ness.
In my experience 20° on a nicely thin behind the edge knife is the best compromise.
@@adamjames1375 If you are cutting paper, cardboard, and rope, you shouldn’t be chipping anything on your knife.
If you are, you might find a better blade steel….
@@JoshSweet
When's the last time you cut a rope?
Let me guess... it was Milspec 550.
And paper?
I have Damascus VG10 Hecho en Japan Oragami scissors for that.
So...
It's really more about seperating tape & breaking down cardboard Amazon packages. Maybe even the occasional blister pack.
So good sir... may I suggest to you a lesser steel. In the form of a flippity floppity button lockity folding utility razor.
@@adamjames1375 Some of the best EDC knife enthusiasts and sharpening hobbyists use 17-20* for most pocket knives.
What are you cutting with your knife? Why would it chip from everyday use?
@@JoshSweet
I'm just being a butthole. 17° is likely ideal for many tasks.
I've just gone a bit too acute a few times & things got chippy.
Truth is I was free handing on a dmt stone & for all I know it was 14°.
I just like to heckle the echo chamber knaf communitay.
Carry on & Cheerio old sport!
DCA - how much does country of origin matter when it comes to choosing a knife? Is it all personal preference or is there one country putting out superior product?
D.C. with all the awesome new handles in the knife world right now, why in the world would somebody want a frame lock knife with the whole half a handle thing?
In regards to apple picking, be sure to wash off the pesticide coating on the apples and your hands since you touched the apples.
Meh, it toughens ya up
Hi DCA - here is my question: is CPM-Magnacut the steel of the future? Do you anticipate a bunch of new releases later this year and into next year? As of now your website has only about 30 knives featuring this interesting steel. Thanks!
I do think we'll see a lot of Magnacut in the future once companies use up all the steel they already had pre-purchased, however I don't think it will dominate the market since it doesn't excel in edge retention compared to a lot of the other super steels, and I think edge retention is probably the characteristic most people care about.
For a chopper, I'd go with a machete every day of the week, like a Condor from El Salvador. They really know how to chop down there!
If distal taper describes the blade getting thinner as it goes from the handle to the tip; what is the proper term for a blade that gets thinner from the front of the handle to the butt of the handle, to more balance the weight of the knife?
Thats called a tapered tang.
DCA, please pull some strings and get us a Crucarta Caribbean KC exclusive. PLEASE!
That intro graphic! 😂👌
Hi DCA! Murray Carter has sharpening tutorials on TH-cam where he recommends thinning the blade stock with every sharpening. In the modern knife collecting universe I feel like this practice would reduce the value of a piece. What is your opinion on thinning blade stock when sharpening at home? Do you thin down your knives? Are there knives you would or would not thin?
If you want to thin down the blade stock I would send it out for a regrind by a professional. Many times I've seen this INCREASE the value of a knife.
Doing it yourself while sharpening is likely going to decrease the value of your knife.
Will you guys ever create an knifecenter app?
How much thicker does a knife blade have to be than a thinner knife (all other factors being equal) before the advantage in "robustness" is noticeable, practical, or significant? Does something like this exist, or is it all just "bro science"?