Didn’t expect this one! No Braking Power!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Check out my Merchandise Store Below the video for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! rainmanraysrep...
Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: / rainmanraysrepairs
Must have for any toolbox!
Bahco "Frustrated" Plies AWESOME tool! amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: amzn.to/32BPitV
GearWrench Hose Clamp Pliers: amzn.to/3EGOuRn
Helping Hands Soldering Assistant: amzn.to/3GqnG9U
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 8 amzn.to/3mPnpFA
Gopro Hero 9 amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 8 Dual Charger amzn.to/3EId84c
Flexible Camera Mount amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Reminds me of when my dad asked me to check the front brakes on the old family car while they were on vacation.
One of the slide pins was so stuck it took me six hours, penetrating oil, borrowing a neighbor's blowtorch, and me jumping on a six-foot breaker bar to get it out.
A couple months later during the yearly inspection, the brake lines disintegrated.
A little cleaning and brake lube on those pins at the time of the brake job works wonders.
I gave up on a a rusted snapped off pin. A new caliper was easy peasy. Use sil lube on new pins
Ahhh finally a car from my neck of the woods 😁 haha good job not loosing your mind and also glad to see the gas light on. Only thing better would have been wheel locks and no key 🤣
Eric O in the house! I been to upstate NY cold as hell and bad weather in winter!
@@philipk.3464 Nahhh it's warm today. Almost zero by noon!
I was waiting for Ray to use phone a friend to Mr O.
@@SouthMainAuto it's 21 in Massachusetts but it feels like 10 out I drive a scooter so no driving today
Pennsylvania is just as bad. Rusty shit boxes.
New England guy here. Ive had great luck with those coated rotors. They dont get the typical "instantaneous" rotor rust that the untreated units recieve
Great combination - Ray doing what he does best, and in the middle there, Floyd doing what they do best!
In the Uk you would have a rubber tubed on the bleed nipples back into the reservoir. Another trick is you have a modified reservoir cap with a tube inserted which you attach to the spare tyre and use the pressure in the tyre instead of somones foot. Also you would test the brakes on a rolling road to make sure they are pulling evenly before a test drive.
Looks like their daily commute is through the ocean, great content as always Ray👍
Probably drives on a beach partly in the water.
@@Amen.22 or transplanted from the NE
Something, that is alot of rust on the underpinnings of this FJ.
i could tell for how they dont take really good care of it
Possibly this FJ was a northern vehicle at one point before making it's way down south, would explain all the rust at these brake calipers
Watching you with the open end wrench on the first brake caliper reminded me of a buddy of mine the first time he did brakes. He removed the line and put new calipers on, but when he got ready to put the brake lines back on used a box end wrench on the brake line. It was only once he got all done that he saw that his wrench was now trapped, so he had to remove the fitting, remove his wrench and start all over again. We bought him 4 more wrenches so that next time he could just leave it there since that's what he wanted to do the first time, right? For some reason he failed to find us funny😂
haha good story :D
I'm laughing my ass off. The look on his face had to be worth that price!! OMG!
Sounds like something I might have done, when I was ten. Which doesn't make it any less funny. It's right up there with people painting them selves into corners. Every one knows you shouldn't do that. Everyone jokes about people doing that. Even so there always seems to be someone who manages to do it, which they then never will live down. Now I've done really stupid stuff but fortunately there were no one around to see it... Or at least no one still alive...
If they were 10mm it would be a good idea
line wrenches
3 things here! Needle nose pliers aren't made for prying. 1/4" clear fuel line to a container prevents paint damage and unnecessary cleanup. And, Mityvac makes an inexpensive vacuum pump to do this job solo, thus freeing a helper for other jobs.
The shop has one, I assume another tech was using it or its broken.
The only thing that I didn’t like was clamping the brake hose. I’ve seen a lot of brake hoses balloon and burst. Once they are compressed they can also collapse over time and cause brakes to stick.
@@taselescanlan2795 I second that. You only need to get bit in the ass once to figure that out (or 5 times like me lol). Hard lines I use vacuum caps, banjo bolts I just time my install so a few drips from the switch over is all I get. Clamps are only for an emergency tourniquet. Got lucky with those rusty hard lines too, although still a relatively new vehicle. Tip for old rusty ones that are bound to slip- line wrench or crows foot, and before you loosen, actually give it one good tighten nudge. 2 things, you break the rust grip and true up the six sides for a better wrench bite when loosening. 60% of the time it works, everytime. Lol.
Here’s a suggestion: put your own work on YT for public criticism
@@tuenygaard8075 I just did, in the comments section in the form of a "thoughtful" suggestion.
I had the same problem with my 6.0 powerstroke and I just replaced the pads and so far they work like they should.. love the videos man
Always the best music in the background!
I recommend always greasing everything so it doesn’t just rust right Back up, especially the brake hardware I noticed you didn’t use any anywhere. put brake grease everywhere the pads make contact in a spot where they need to move free. I found a purple ceramic grease that works very well the Mack tool trucks usually have it, I even grease between the hubs and rotors it prevents rust and the rotors come right off next time as well as everything else...love the videos keep up the good work.
Auto tech, I think you just answered the question I just asked to the main section, I was just wondering if there was any downside to greasing the non-brake pad/rotor surface components just to try to keep the rust down a little. Sounds like that’s basically what you are doing.
i was saying the same thing i used the purple permatex its prob whats the mac truck has just different label. or antisize works good as well. in 6 months that thing will be sticking again.
I'd have thought that every year the brakes would be disassembled and re-greased as well to stop things seizing up. I also noticed that there are brake linings on the rear for the hand brake: they didn't get a mention even though they should have also been checked, greased up etc.
I've watched Ray use Silicone on caliper pins although he didn't this time [Rears - Fronts don't slide]. I wonder why?
Rust level on all components suggests that the car has been regularly dumped in salt water and not rinsed off.
Good morning Ray. Noticed the aftermarket battery on the ridged impact, stay with the Japanese cells if possible for what ever you get. You are hilarious... Brake cleaner for everything but brake jobs😂👍. Rock on Bro!
I did brakes for Mark C Bloom. Common practice to wash coating from rotor with alcohol
. Quite possible to round hex on brake line using standard open end wrench. In the event line wrench isn't effective I have found straight jaw vise grips if carefully utilized will work by slightly deforming brake line fitting releasing rust. Bloom requires master cylinder separation from mount looking for bypassing.
HUGE HINT at 0:06! Start by hitting every bolt with PB Blaster - Great video as always!
In fairness the customer did warn you by putting a PB Blaster sticker on drivers door. That was a ominous omen lube would be needed 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
tbh - bleeding the brakes was kind of painful to watch because the fluid sprayed everywhere. would've been easier to put a rubber hose over the bleeder and let it run into a jerrycan or something
Ray is using his rubber hose to whip those porn bots.
Yep, definitely agree. Brake fluid is nasty to most surfaces and finishes, so I was cringing watching it spray everywhere. was it that much extra effort to get a tube and a can? Then using a bottle of washer fluid to hose stuff off? That was just kind of amateurish. Ray, you can do better.
They have a vessel that he has demonstrated on the channel. He used it for a fluid replacement, in an older video.
Yup I didn't like seeing that mess happen liked all the other videos
Agree. Not a pro way to bleed the fluid and that shit destroys every finish it touches
From the outside the Toyota looks good, from the inside the Toyota looks good, from the underneath, the Toyota will be a Swiss cheese and a pile of junk in less than a couple of years, shame really.
They clean what they see.
It's so nice to see Ray work on rusty stuff for a change. Welcome to my world Ray 😆 Your always 1 broken bolt away from 2 days of pain 😆
the bodywork is great .. you should recommend a rust preventative spray .
to make the bleeding of the brakes require less clean up use a clear hose and soda bottle
Yep, and put new brake fluid in bottle so end of hose is in fluid, this prevents air from being sucked in when you release pedal, then you can leave bleeder open and slowly pump pedal until no air bubbles in clear hose.
There’s even a vacuum version where you can do it yourself. Clear hose on calibre and airpressure on bottle. No mess.
He would not only make it less messy. Brake fluid is also corrosive. So giving the customer's car a brake fluid shower is not really a nice move.
@@Chris-yy7qc yeah and on the tires?
@@Chris-yy7qc as if corrosion is a concern for this owner ..lol
Great job, all new brakes, rotors and calipers, braking must of felt like a new truck. Enjoyable video! 👍🏻
Are you kidding? Did you not see all the other worn out neglected parts in camera view. Bushings are all toast.
@@leakyjeep5.9 I was referring to the brake pedal feel. Yes it looked like The Titanic under there.
@@frankbiz 👍
Looking at the amount of rust on the undercarriage, I would think someone drove this vehicle in seawater and never rinsed it off with fresh water afterwards. But I have noted that a lot of the vehicles you work on have rust that I'm not used to. I guess it's because the nearest coastline to me is 6 hours drive away and I do live in a semi arid location which is about 1 mile above sea level.
Could be snowbirds. After all, it is winter .
Every car in the rust belt looks like this. It's from all the salt and brine they put on the roads in winter.
I'll usually stick my finger over the furthest away from the master cylinders bleeder and use it like a one-way valve to pump most air out to start getting some fluid don't loosen the bleeder too much just crack it so it's somewhat snug and put your finger over the bleeder
I was disappointed to see you reuse that front caliper bolt that you thought was failing earlier....🤔
Everyone loves a brake pad/rotor video. There's something satisfying about it. Glad to see Ray has really absorbed quite the gathering of subscribers! It's a testament to his content and editing skills. Thanks for the great videos Ray! It makes us northerners look forward to being snowbirds someday and having our "Florida" car that doesn't turn into a rust bucket. :-)
I grew up in the snowy/salted land of Ohio, but having lived in Alabama and now Texas for the last decade... MAN is it easier to work on cars now!
The vehicles he works on are like new, compared to the usual NorthEast rust buckets. I would love to have rust free vehicles!
Vice Grips ????
Rust! Up here we would have been applying silicone and brake grease on the rubby parts.
I knew a Snowbird that lived on the ocean in the Keys. His car was even worse than this one. He had to get a brake job like this every 2 years or 7,500 miles.
Man it really hurts my heart to see a vehicle that looks so good up top and well cared for, then underneath it's trash and they allow it to rot away.
In the spring time mostly it costs me more to wash the underside then the top. This year is completely different.aaaahhhhhh!
Try living in Minnesota then
Yeah, since this is florida, were they driving it in salt water?
@@IntenseGrid They might just live near the ocean; my dad had a (at that time new) 70's Buick Regal that shed paint (recalled, fixed later); he thought at first that it was the ocean air doing it. Other cars in the area were mostly rusted out. This was also in Florida.
@@KECOG just from the salt air?
Those new brakes are going to be too strong for the rest of the underbody / suspension…
Going to rip those rusted drive components off
What a rust bucket 😱
Rust bucket... or just a normal condition for a car in the UK 🤣🤣🤣
Looks a little better than the average 10 yr old car here in michigans upper peninsula. Our roads get a ton of salt through our 6 months of winter, so everything is rotten here. Makes repair work difficult to say the least. When I was working in a brake shop years ago, I had to red tag an early 2000's Taurus that was 6 years old. The poor lady had just finished paying it off. She had never gotten an undercarriage wash, which is a weekly(if not bi-weekly) must during the salt season here.
They may have moved from a rust belt state to Florida?
@@hsnwfl7766 Doubt it or the body would be rusted also, Body looked great.
@@spieftech7958 I bought a Taurus second hand years ago that looked amazing, and was only five years old at the time. I drove it for a year, won a free tune up and got a call from the shop that was doing the work. They'd gotten up on the lift, took one look, and brought it down and called a wrecker. The frame had started to give way, someone had painted over the massive amount of rust... I was seriously pissed at the stealership. (Sad, because the original owner of the car lot was an amazing person. Wouldn't sell a car he felt was unsafe. He had a stroke and his scumbag son ran the business into the ground within months.)
My ex had an FJ. And the underside of this one looks exactly as I expected it to. Her FJ (2008) had half the miles as my ZX2 (2001) but more than twice the rust.
Great video as always Ray very entertaining @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Nice job on the brakes Ray. I worry about the structure of those lower control arms though.
I also saw the crust (crunchy flaky rust). In the rust belt we see that as a performance update, with every pothole the vehicle gets lighter...
@@randymack2222 weight reduction to get better gas mileage ...
I was wondering if it saw some salt water/beach action. It could just be the normal winter road salt though.
@@kevinford2644 in snowy areas they add salt to roads
@@kevinford2644 And it gets all over from the terrain shooting it all over the under carriage.
Enjoyed that one, as I have done this job 2 or 3 times on my own vehicles before now. Though I am a bit surprised that you didn't use any anti seize compound on any of the components, even though 4WD vehicles tend to get mud-plugged and driven through lots of water. Is it standard practice not to use it in the USA ?
Lubing any brake 'rub or slide' non friction surface is a good idea.
If there's any slight possibility of us ever having to get in there again then yes, liberally. The hat face, slide pins, everything.
I use Permatex Ceramic Extreme Break Parts Lubricant,. About $10 for 5 Oz.
Also should clean the new rotars always, they have an oil coating to prevent rusting in the box and it can contaminate the new pads
Glad to see I wasn't the only person screaming at the screen when I didn't see any anti seize or equivalent or the disks(rotors) being cleaned
I like to use clear tubing on the bleeder valve so I can collect it in a Gatorade bottle and can also see when no more air is coming out easier
I use this method with the clear plastic bottle with some clean fluid in it. I didn't see the amount of air come out like he did here---perhaps because he took the line completely off and all I did was replace the pads and then bleed. It makes me wonder if I didn't do it right ( pumping against a closed bleeder valve)
@@captinbeyond if you didn't take the line off then there shouldn't be air just old fluid, so you should be Good
nice axle locating bar.
Ah man the best so far this journey you on bro das love like ms Anne said stay blessed
We need more honest mechanics like you. Really like watching your videos
I first watched this video a couple weeks ago and it was so good I decided to watch it again. My son-in-law used to own an FJ Cruiser that looked identical to this one, but I don’t think his had nearly as much rust underneath. Hard to believe how rusty some of the cars are that you see on various car repair videos. I thoroughly appreciate Ray’s calm and deliberate approach to diagnosing and repairing his customers’ cars.
The more i look at the state of that car underneath over here in the uk that would be visiting a scrap yard !!!
where all toyotas & land rovers should be..built ford tough.. in aus..
Here's a trick I learned in tech school. Depress the brake pedal half way with a pedal lock device, then you don't have to worry about brake fluid flowing when you remove banjo nolts or lines
Great job and narrative.
Welcome to every brake job I've ever done in New England! Once again it makes me cringe every time I watch you reassemble brake and suspension parts without a liberal dose of anti-sieze compound. Up here if you don't slather the hub/rotor mating surface with anti-sieze you will never ever get them apart again.
The spreading springs are there to keep the pads from humming. The pins that came with the kit are held in by what we know up here as carriage or hitch pins not cotters.
I said the same about the anti-sieze and I'm in California!
First the cold weather now the corrosion. You would do well in New England!
It’s not Rays vehicle so he doesn’t care how he slaps it back together. Mechanics only get so much time to complete a repair so if they can cut corners they will.
@@chodkowski01 nah. I don't buy that. Florida is just a different environment. Nearly every rust bucket he works on either comes from up north or has been regularly dunked at the boat ramp.
@@chodkowski01 Disagree entirely. If you've watched ANY of his content, he generally goes out of the way to do small details that most customers won't notice like being OCD about battery terminals and such. He's a good mechanic, he missed a detail, and everyone can learn no matter the age.
If I had a $1 for every time “Your Love” played in the background in these videos I’d be able to pay for the needed repairs on a few of the cars who had turned down recommended service.
Hey don't forget "Whats Goin On" by Four Non Blondes :)
Never in my life have I seen technican do a brake job with no anti seize compound applied to the hardware or hub 😕
ive never seen one use antisieze its silicone grease ur suppose to use but yea this guy doesnt work on rusty cars u can tell from when he risked snapping the caliper bolt lol
Used neversieze for years,no issues
Also the hubs are not cleaned properly (between the studs and center ring).
The problem with copper or silver grease is that it can effect the ABS sensors.
I can see why he's got the PB blaster sticker now, must be a loyal customer lol.
I'm also surprised that you don't attempt to wash off the anti rust coating on the braking surface, I have however been retired for 20 years and they may now be applying a different type of coating.
Ray, as the brake pedal bottoms out against the floor, "The pedal feels pretty good." 😂
That FJ is "purty" in a northern rust belt sort of way. Fine on the outside but raging cancer underneath.
I've got a couple of Saturns like that. Plastic body work looks great for 20+ year old cars, but underneath? A corrosion explosion.
@@JohnnyTalia I feel the rust explosions has come in waves. In the 70's Japanese cars were extremely prone to become rust buckets. Then some time in the 80's I think it was that rust protection suddenly became a selling point. I remember Mitsubishi galvanizing the lower part of the body and having a five or if it was ten year rust warranty. Whatever it was this was a reaction to the reputation as a rust bucket they had. Now I've never owned a Mitsubishi or bothered to check how effective it really was, but at least it showed that they payed attention to the market.
I do however remember that some years later there were some talk about how the rust warranties that most manufacturers now had often wasn't worth the paper they were written on. Once you read through the fine print most of them covered just about nothing. But then that's the car industry in a nutshell. Once you've drove it off the lot they are no longer interested in you or the car.
It feels like just ten years or so ago there was another wave of rust sweeping the car industry. Since the 80's manufacturers had started putting plastic liners in the wheel houses and often covering large parts of the chassis. The problem was that water that got up behind those liners tended to stay there and the metal would corrode. But even if you got under the car everything looked perfectly fine unless you removed these liners and looked underneath.
I think they've got that under control now, mostly. And then I see these videos...
I live in the alps (in France) - lots of snow - but we don't use salt... This FJ looked like my old land cruiser - beautiful up top - lots of cancer below - all was good until the frame broke at 140kmg - 90 mph on the auto route ... scare of my life when the front and back were no longer connected .... just a question... Does Toyota have a chronic rust problem? My Audi - purchased 6 months earlier with 2x the mileage had virtually no rust...
@@markpetersen2727 Japanese cars have quite a bad habit of rusting I think it's the type/composition of metal they used in production
@@darrencowan6325 I had a 1992 Nissan no-name pick up that was very reliable. But after 13 years the main frame all but rusted thru. Yes, it saw lots of drives on the ocean beaches and no matter how much you wash it underneath, you won't stop salt rust.
Conscientious and vigilant, that’s what I enjoy about your and South Main Auto videos, very professional, if only all mechanics were like the two of you. Thanks for setting a great example for the rest of them.
I get the impression that this vehicle is going to have a major failure in the near future. Kinda makes this job like putting lipstick on a pig, unfortunately.
Also pinching rubber brake lines is frown on due too old rubber that has expanded million times, is when you pinch a spot you could cause a weak point and maybe cause a failure and why do it when your going to bleed them anyways so save time and just open the system but you make a mess bleeding so no need to pinch fluid but hope this helps see that you did something that you still made a mess...
I would have suggested to the customer new front brake hoses too, they looked pretty crusty, they have a tendancy to leak where the short hard line attaches to the rubber hose at that small bracket. Water/salt gets in the crimp fitting and rust jacks it.
I bet 200 people have commented on it, but the coating is too help the pads settle faster to the new disc. When the coating is worn off you know the entire pad is touching the disc. I only use brembo oem on my cars, it was on them I read about it first. I thought it only was an anti-corrosion protection.
Remanufactured calipers never seem to have any protective coating unless they are high end. I gather the new hardware will respond the same to the elements given the right conditions.
Ray, you're making me appreciate my Western, relatively rust free cars! Heck, my 60 year old, 1962 Triumph TR4 has far less rust than that ten year old Toyota! Difference is my car spent its whole life in California and Colorado.
Ya to that. You don't want any vehicle that's been used near salt
Life's too short to jack with corrosion damaged parts . Should always be a Time+ type job if accepted, cause there's always a nitemare hidden from sight.
Something went wrong with that car. I have an 18y year old Camry that’s not that rusted. Probably been in salt water at some point.
You should try working on cars in northern IL and WI.
Ya , been there. Done that. After 15 years of 6 months Midwest winters working with melting salt slush drippin off rusted hulks . Headed to CenTex in '78. Never looked back . Started making enjoyable income that's a good plus on top of 300+ nice days a yr.
Been doing my own brakes for 40 years. Was a CM (Construction Mechanic) in the Seabee's. Left the field after my tour. Brakes are pretty similar. Manufacturers do tend to do a few things differently but the principle is the same. The front brakes on this Toyota are similar to my wife's Mercedes SLK 350. Good video. I pass on to friends that brakes are the single biggest cost saver you can do yourself as far a maintenance issues.
I just did my niece's VW Beetle-they were over at Christmas and she said the shop told her she needed new pads and it was going to be $800. I told her I would take care of it for her, I got good ceramic pads front & rear for under $100 and saved her a ton of money..
I always replace pads and rotors. Rotors are pretty inexpensive (don't buy cheap ones) and safety isn't something I want to cheap out on!
You are absolutely right.
Assuming you have good calipers, here’s the perfect tool for doing the brake job on those Toyota’s. Assuming you are just doing the pads. I have a Tacoma and the front calipers are the same design. Lisle Part# 29100 quad pad spreader.
"Back here... we're super duper rusty" *laughs in michigan mechanic* love your content brother keep it up
in all fairness this was quite crusty but we see it too much up here im jealous
You went to all the trouble to remove the pins from the front calipers but then just pulled them? Good info on thought process on where the pads slide on the pins. Mine have clips the pins push against the pads (Mercedes 6 piston)
Is that entire rear end about to literally drop off the vehicle. On the passenger side rear, there is a bar crossing over the diff - the bracket holding that on is all but gone
pan hard bar.
Sir, .did you not lubricate the calliper bolt first?? 🤭🤭
The pb blaster sticker should have been your first clue lol.
Can't believe that Ray didn't use up a can to soak all 4 calipers & rotors. For all the times it was used before, where it probably didn't need it, now we find one that us Notherners recognize.
@@YouveBeenMiddled Dude, I'm from California and was blown away that he didn't use it! The one time he didn't use brake clean or rust penetrant he needed it lol.
Wander what the frame on that thing looked like.. Looks like one of those cars that was parked over a giant puddle for the last decade or two....
Hope the owner fixes the rust under that FJ. Those things are appreciating in value, not just by whats going on now but they will be worth a lot later.
Question, i have always bleed the old fluid out before i replaced the calipers with a new one. That way no old fluid gets in the new caliper. Then bleed them again. What do you think?
Unnecessary.
That’s some big ol’ calipers 😄 great job.
Has it been to the beach? That’s a lotta rust for Florida 🤔
Thats worse rust than 10 years of Western NY winters.......
It's a Toyota. They come standard with flavor. Look at the control arm at 6:40. It's a Titanic artifact.
the purpose of using a line wrench on tubing fittings is to better grip the fitting better to prevent rounding off, more like a boxed end wrench.... your welcome.. and what another rust bucket.
Plus the wrench won’t slip off , and will stay there for the on-off bleeding operation !
great job man but i think you forgot to use some grease on the pins and the pads
Am I the only one wondering why the calipers needed changing? Clean them up, clean out the holes for the pad retaining pins - and use anti-seize grease on the new pins to stop/slow the dissimilar metal corrosion between the pin and the caliper. It'll also allow the brake pads to travel properly on the pins. Anti-seize also should be used on the rear pads on the slide rails of the caliper.
Sorry - but I can't see any good reason to replace the calipers. No damage, deformation or cracks - hydraulically intact. That was a wee money maker.
Also not keen on crimping the pipe - thats a future failure point now. If you're going to disconnect a hyd hose for any length of time - use a blanking plug to stop the oil draining out.
This should have just been a pad and disc/rotor change, with caliper clean ups. And why why why didn't you use a clear plastic hose to drain the oil into a container when bleeding?
For other readers of this - never ever put and oil or grease on the contact surfaces between the pads and disc/rotor.
From a viewer who lives in the UK and has seen their fair share of corrosion problems on cars and how to mitigate them.
I don't think you've noticed the fact that the calipers was almost if not completely seized over, not to mention the defect of a brake pad being completely stuck to a caliper, that and certain automotive repair Business have different protocols when it comes to braking system replacement, not to mention possible state and government laws for how much rust can be on a part and still be deemed road-legal, if the calipers was within standard, (which even I doubt) it's really down to the mechanic's level of judgement, different mechanics have different years of experience, I've seen some replace completely usable calipers, I've been taught how to replace my trucks brakes by another who's been in the profession for 30-40 years, and even he would agree to replace those calipers.
Not to mention putting parts from one part into another, even if it's the same is somewhat looked down apon (excluding certain addon parts, and brakes in this case)
with the amount of abuse the undercarriage sees, I think it was a good call to replace....
Ray, to avoid spilling brake-fluid and unnecessary labor use a transparant hose and a jar to take air out of the lines...
Yes you could have used the transparent hose and then pulled over his oil change bucket, that was extremely awful, plus that brake fluid can be caustic to the tires and rims that was splashing all over.
Agreed ...we also use an evacuator with clear hose to it for that also and a small jar with lid and hole drilled in it for hose.
@@willsrestorations
Brake fluid damages rubber?
Really?
@@brucebaxter6923 you also have to understand that the rubber on brake lines is not the same as tire rubber, also getting brake fluid on rims can easily remove the urethane finish. And brake fluid is somewhat damaging to even brake lines, why do you think the brake fluid gets dark color like that it is sealed system, it's because the brake fluid will very slowly either way at the rubber and that's why you're seeing the dark color in your master cylinder reservoir. You can disagree all you want but you would be wrong. And I'm sure you never thought you were wrong in your life.
@@brucebaxter6923 brake fluid will take paint down to bare metal, it’s not something to mess around with, if i spill any on a customer’s vehicle it’ll get washed off with a few gallons of water.
Looking at that undercarriage, I would guess this brake job will last the life of the vehicle.
Real talk, how does a car like that get so freaking rusty in that short amount of time? Almost looks unsafe to drive...
I would suggest getting professional advice about the reliability of that crusty suspension.
sea breeze (salty mist) or a life of driving on the beach, or worse, directly into the ocean, for example launching a boat, will do this very fast if the suspension and subframe aren't washed quickly, frequently, and regularly with fresh water.
Looks like the same brake system I had on my 85 Volvo wagon i had years ago, by taking the pads out of the caliper
Is there enough of the frame left to support all this new brake hardware?
I'm surprised you don't use synthetic caliper lube where the pads slide in the perches to keep them moving freely. I'd also smear a layer on the pad pins, put just a tad extra in the slide pins, and the piston to pad surface. We have to use good synthetic lube just to get 3-4 years of brake service before everything freezes up. No lube and shit will be stuck in 1 1/2-2 yrs. I'm in Michigan's upper peninsula and there is a ton of salt used on our roads during our 6 months of winter...
You do good work, and it's obvious that you care about your customers. You are honest, which is paramount.
Keep it up sir.
You are spot on with the lube, anti seize works too. And surprised he did not replace those caliper bolts even though it looked like they had some torsional stress and clean the threads up in the mounting threads that is a liability.
@@carmo9693 Had me when he said he doesn't want liability and left the brake hoses that appear ready to pop.
I work for a Toyota dealer up north. I always grease the sides of the pads and the pins.
P.S. SUGGEST A UNDERCOATING RIGHT ON THE RUST. Pressure wash , dry and apply. Make a customer.
So much rust- IN FLORIDA????
Must be parked right on the beach, where salty ocean breeze hits it?
*or bought the car from somewhere else?
There's some serious corrosion on a lot of those suspension parts. I would think it is not long before those lower wishbones need replacing.
@Clara I knows dem trix..... unhunhh...... unhhunhhhhhhh!!
Wow,so much chassis rust, only time ive seen that is with 4x4 driving down beach everyday with owners fishing or similar.
Had a cold start in his Duramax the other day, rusty bolts on a brake job that want to break off. Next thing ya know he'll have himself a Big Nasty air hammer and start saying, "what do ya want me to do? Chop it off?".
Love your videos. Always makes me laugh when you talk about “rusty” stuff, don’t get me wrong this one’s bad but I work in the north Canadian market and silver anti-seize on the bad/pins and a clean spindle would really help them out. Learning lots from you though on how I can improve my work so thanks for that.
Is silver or copper better? I've always used a touch of the copper on the guide slide and back of pads, contact points on drums. And some silicone paste also for the
@@extrememiami I personally think copper is miles better than aluminum. Copper antiseize is made for higher temps and doesn't seem to get everywhere like the aluminum. Barring any situations where copper might cause galvanic corrosion, I use it everywhere you would use antiseize
Having used the Gray anti-Seize for years , I discovered that Kopper Kote lasted longer! Stayed in place didn't get washed out of it place, to the tune of 2+ yrs longer. Kopper Kote goes on all things as I HATE RUST and Corrosion. I will likely not live long enough but when building my truck I inadvertently discovered that it and Cosmoline gun grease mixed well together. The long term so far looks very good??? FYI.
@@extrememiami nickel is better but it's hard to find
only one small criticism as its so rusty i always put some anti seize on the sliding surfaces of all pads
Silicone grease 👍
Your scan tool would probably have been able to put the ABS system in bleed mode. Makes this a easy one man job.
Liquid Wrench would have certainly helped loosen those rusted bolts.😄
Excilent Job.
Did they really name your transit system 'SCAT'? Wow.
Hmmm, ‘scat’ in the US is also a slang term telling children to clear out or similar.
@@randomschmo5778 That along with other things.
Ray. I notice you don't lubricate bolts, pins or shafts. Appreciate it maybe extra cost but is there a reason for this? Thanks as always....love the content.
I just chaged front discs and pads on 2009 X Trail didnt use any grease, straight away grinding and creaking when braking and turning steering wheel. Had to go back and add copper grease, noise gone straight away.
Brand new components are already pre-lubed.
Not stainless steel slider clips. Not pad lugs which mate with slider clips. Not slider pins. Not what I’ve encountered. Dave in Omaha
Because this is not done in the southern states were normally rust is not a problem.
Brake flex hose + clamp = bad idea. Can cause internal damage to the hose. Holding the brake pedal down about 1" with a pedal depressor or suitable stick will prevent most of the fluid from draining.
@Freiherr Dinckelacker "Tires Plus" is like a MASH unit.
Brake hoses are incredibly strong. Why would a silly clamp make them fail?
@Freiherr Dinckelacker Lol yes, does stupid shit to get more comments.
Why do people need to be dicks ? S.o.p is exactly what he did . Some people including myself belive clamping the line is bad but its s.o.p across the industry, atleast it was while i was a wrench
@@Sonichu_is_watching It's the crushing action. Look it up.
No Peter? Good video!
That radio station sounds like the same play list as 93.3 here in sc. And dang that fj done some off-roading or are y’all in rust belt ?
Awesome content, and care with each job. Wouldn't it be a good idea to chase the threads to clean everything out?
That was a great tip to clamp the brake line above the caliber - never occurred to me to do that. Curious if that works ok on a old rubber line that might crack from being pinched?
Any 5yo rubber part in a brake system should replaced to avoid disaster or recheck. At least have Recco on Wk Order to show Cust declined
An alternative to clamping is to hold the brake pedal down. This stops gravity running the fluid out.
The amount of rust and chunks of metal coming off the rear parts is a bit concerning.
ikr? this thing looks about as bad as my last car shortly before it went to the scrapper... except that thing was 21 years old Oo!
to who ..... NOT the D.O.T.
Except for DOT 5 fluid but it's rarely used in ordinary vehicles.
Why did you not use a bleeder vacuum device/tool?
Also have to back off the parking brake before removing the rear rotors.
Ray, you seem happier now that you’ve replaced your 1/2” cordless impact! It’s always nice to have new tools!
And added that new M12 3/8 stubby.
Ray lacks tool self control
@@ajaywhite9103 , I know that feeling!
@@Hoaxer51 Me too, so far Ray has set me back about $400, M12 right angle impact, M12 soldering iron, M12 6ah battery and a few other things. The M12 soldering iron is amazing!!
@@rogerd8075,once you have the batteries it’s not really out of this world expensive. It’s also nice to have tools when you need them.
Ok, I think I’ve just talked myself into that cordless soldering iron I’ve been wanting! Lol
Ray, you do magnificent work, and I wanted to share a bit of advice for rusty northern cars when doing brake jobs. I always put a small dab of anti seize on the flat surface where the rotor meets the hub to prevent rusting in place. Also a little bit on the hub center keeps aluminum wheels from seizing on the hubs. Don't use it on lug nuts though. Also dry graphite lube works great on slide surfaces for the pads instead of grease the will capture dirt like I have seen others do.
Agree on almost all of that, but why not on lug nuts? Absolutely necessary for aluminium wheels torqued when temp is 95+, if you may need to remove wheels when temp is 5 degrees (F for you metric--Karens). The steel lug-bolts shrink much more with reduced temps than aluminium/alloy wheels. And on steel wheels, anti-seize stops the rust-welding after a NY salty-winter too.
And NO they won't fall off. 50 years of experience using anti-seize on all wheels every time.
@@richardbrown6887 you can actually over torque your lugs with anti seize on them. The spec is for dry threads. I've used it on lugs before where rust is an apparent problem, but you should only torque to 80% of spec. They use lots of salt here in Idaho too, but we don't rust quite as bad as you guys.
@@richardbrown6887 That's 50 years of doing it wrong. They won't fall off, but they are not being torque properly and you are putting wheel studs at risk of breaking.
@@robertkorn Well, Robert, help me out with this then -
If there is terrible risk, then when will a wheel stud break?
Just when driving to soccer & the Mall? Never seen that.
When its hot? Never seen that.
When its cold? (That may be one --- with aluminum wheels that contract less than the steel lugs in very cold conditions. Makes it a bite-ch to change a wheel on the road with the car's toy lug wrench in the snow at -5 degrees IF THE LUGS ARE NOT ANTI-SEIZED. (Been there with a new car that was not yet anti-seized!). But I have never seen a lubed one break from cold.
At high speeds on Interstates? Never seen that.
On rough roads? Never seen that.
Rock climbing? Maybe, but I never tried that.
Then, what are the risk factors?
So when do I need to start worrying, because, based on my, (60, really. I am an old fart) years experience with more than a dozen cars/trucks, equals over 250 lug studs, and similar experience of two sons, have never seen an incidence of a lubed lug "Breaking". I have seen just the opposite, the studs are not severely over-torqued when removing rusted ones.
Yes, in my experience wheel studs are only breaking when un-lubed, rust-welded by our northern salty roads, and then when a 6 ft breaker-bar (An appropriate name, not so?) is used to attempt to get the nuts off.
Soooooo, Robert, many vehicles, many years, probably a million or two miles, says it doesn't happen. You say, apparently with great certainty, that it does. So you must have seen it happen.
What is your evidence?
Just your first ten examples will scare me into not using anti-seize on any more lugs.
Rich
@@richardbrown6887 overtorquing them stretches the studs, and continuously doing this will cause them to fail under load. Could happen going around a corner. The point is that it's wrong. I'm not new to this either, I ran tire and auto repair shops for over 20 years. Wheels are removed regularly enough that lubing the studs is completely unnecessary.
How do you keep the rusting not happening on the brake system? Or is that nature of the beast?
How thick has the rust got to be, before they crush the vehicle?
Love your videos. Thanks for sharing.
I do have to disagree with you on the flare nut wrench thing though (you called them a line wrench). An open-end wrench only grabs onto the flare nut in two places. This makes them very prone to rounding them off. Especially since those nuts are softer. The flare nut wrenches grab onto 5 places on the flare nut. This makes it a lot less prone to rounding them off - just sayin.
And when your flare nut spanner wants to spread you add extra squeeze with visegrips
Obviously you are right. Ray has rationalized not using flare nut wrenches in other videos, I wonder if he even has any; I mean with all the corrosion this would have been the time to use a line wrench. The take away is Ray hasn't had any issues stripping flare nuts with an open end wrench so he doesn't use flare nut wrenches and after 20 years that probably won't change unless he ends up stripping one; that would be an oops 😬
Maybe a touch of copper anti-seize on the pins etc would make the job easier the next time round ?
He should be using brake grease on any brake job, as the service manuals show, but he never does 🤷♂️ Ray is a good mechanic, but still takes shortcuts. For my or my family’s vehicles, I do the work, and do it by the book.
Mechanics don’t care because they figure they will never see the car again. Mechanics only get so much time to repair a vehicle and will cut corners to complete a job.
@@jcnikoley Rays a typical mechanic and that’s how they work. He knows that once that car leaves he won’t see it again.
Hey, Good Video, So what are your thoughts for not using brake grease on your assemblies? For example, Guide pins and Pad Brackets.
It depends on where the vehicle lives and what it's doing.
I live in the land of rust and snow. Grease everything that moves and soak everything else in Fluid Film, MP, Cosmoline, used engine oil, etc.
I started using grease on the pins and guide rails and found that too much grease will gum up with dirt.
No grees on the bolts no grees on the pins 🙈 omg use it the next mechanic gone love you 😉
its gotta be from up north most likely NY with all that rust