I like these series of videos, injection molding is a seriously under covered subject in the hobbyist machinist world. Would love to know more about your machines, their capabilities, and how to get started.
Great suggestion! I'll put that on my list and start thinking about what to cover. So far from you I have 1) an overview of desktop machines, 2) what the can and cannot do, and 3) how to get started (I assume you mean both making the molds and buying a machine?
I really enjoy the injection molding content. I used to own 2 machines, a 50 ton Stokes and a 75 ton VanDorn. Unfortunately I never had the space to use them and they had to go. I have been toying with the idea of building a press, (along with the hundreds of other projects that go through my mind.) Incidentally, if you repeated that section in the center just to see if we were paying attention, I caught you.
Doh! I'm not sure how I got that section repeated, but it's definitely there. I think I and many others would enjoy watching you build your own machine. I have too many projects (and machines already) to even think about that. My favorite machine at the moment is my Morgan. It's very capable, and doesn't take up much floor space.
A thought and I don’t know if you can do it on your machine... with 3d printer nozzle you can do a “cold pull” by turning the nozzle heater off and pushing material by hand until it stops feeding. Then warm the nozzle while pulling the filament from the backside. As soon as it’s just warm enough to release the plug comes out and usually has most of the contaminant. Again don’t know if you can do a procedure like that in your machine.
Yes, I do cold pulls all the time on my 3D printer. Unfortunately, that's not possible with this machine because the plastic is down into the barrel, so there is now way to be able to hook onto it and pull it out (the plunger is inline with the barrel). Fortunately, I got it working, as covered in my most recent episode that is currently uploading.
1) there is a clear cleaning filament out there that helps to purge colors. Esun makes it as well as others. 2) perhaps a small vacuum pump with a thin hose will suction to the part and remove it.
I confirmed, and showed in a later video, that the green patches were in fact material that hadn't been fully purged from the mold. Once I used some PP to completely purge the green, the parts came out perfect.
You could make a metal sleeve that sits inside your heated cylinder that you could remove for different colors or make removable barrels Of course the machine would have to be altered to work.
Would it be possible to make a mold in the shape of the ribbon you chop up to enable to purge the system of the previous colour. I am thinking this might, let you re-use the ribbon and have less waste. Can you also add darker colour? or use the waste you chop up for a part wher the colour is not important?
Thanks. I have used ejector pins a few times. But most of the time I make molds for my manual machines that don't have a mechanism to activate ejector pins. I also talked to some other people who make injection molds for markets where volumes are small (model train accessory parts), and they typically don't use ejector pins either. It makes it a lot easier to make the mold.
You have two separate issues here. The green material issue is one, but there is also "diesel effect" scorching happening in the mold ( that is what that smoke was). You need to vent this mold both from the side opposite the sprue, as well as in the center. Usually this is done by flattening one side of an injector pin in center the diesel pocket.
I don't think this machine has enough injection pressure to be able to get scorching. I know for sure this wasn't my issue. After publishing this video, I used about 1/2 to 1 cup of white PP to purge the machine. Then I reloaded the orange ABS and every part was perfect. Complete orange, with no dark marks.
Hi. Thanks to your videos, I got interested in injection molding. For starters, I want to build a simple piston injection molding machine. Can you give me the diameter of the hole in the nozzle of your machine? This stream of plastic looked like 4-5 mm. Thanks. David.
Stellar content as usual. Also I am designing a product (usb otg device for smart phones) would you be interested in making a mold for me? I am familiar with Cad and can get you a fusion file (not just an stl) Probably a few more weeks out on the design thought.
Sure. I'm not fast by any means. You can contact me either on Facebook, or via the contact page of my channel (you have to click on a button to see my email address).
I thought I was cracking up there for a min, there was a repeat of the purging section 😁 great video as always John 👍👌
Now I know you watched all the way through :-). Seriously, though, that was a mistake I didn't catch.
Haha. I thought I bumped my phone and accidentally rewound 30 second or something.
I like these series of videos, injection molding is a seriously under covered subject in the hobbyist machinist world. Would love to know more about your machines, their capabilities, and how to get started.
Great suggestion! I'll put that on my list and start thinking about what to cover. So far from you I have 1) an overview of desktop machines, 2) what the can and cannot do, and 3) how to get started (I assume you mean both making the molds and buying a machine?
@@JohnSL both buying machines and the mold making. I used to follow you on the Taig group until you moved on to the Haas.
I really enjoy the injection molding content. I used to own 2 machines, a 50 ton Stokes and a 75 ton VanDorn. Unfortunately I never had the space to use them and they had to go. I have been toying with the idea of building a press, (along with the hundreds of other projects that go through my mind.) Incidentally, if you repeated that section in the center just to see if we were paying attention, I caught you.
Doh! I'm not sure how I got that section repeated, but it's definitely there. I think I and many others would enjoy watching you build your own machine. I have too many projects (and machines already) to even think about that. My favorite machine at the moment is my Morgan. It's very capable, and doesn't take up much floor space.
A thought and I don’t know if you can do it on your machine... with 3d printer nozzle you can do a “cold pull” by turning the nozzle heater off and pushing material by hand until it stops feeding. Then warm the nozzle while pulling the filament from the backside. As soon as it’s just warm enough to release the plug comes out and usually has most of the contaminant. Again don’t know if you can do a procedure like that in your machine.
Yes, I do cold pulls all the time on my 3D printer. Unfortunately, that's not possible with this machine because the plastic is down into the barrel, so there is now way to be able to hook onto it and pull it out (the plunger is inline with the barrel). Fortunately, I got it working, as covered in my most recent episode that is currently uploading.
1) there is a clear cleaning filament out there that helps to purge colors. Esun makes it as well as others.
2) perhaps a small vacuum pump with a thin hose will suction to the part and remove it.
Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware of that. Another viewer turned me onto cleaning pellets from Filabot.
@@JohnSL is it just a acyilic pellet?
I can't wait to hear what the resolution is it to clearing the material!! that looked like a lot of wasted plastic material on the table.
I just finished the video and am about to upload it. So it should be available soon.
Venting the mold may allow you to reduce pressure and/or temperature, which at high settings just might be causing the green patches.
I confirmed, and showed in a later video, that the green patches were in fact material that hadn't been fully purged from the mold. Once I used some PP to completely purge the green, the parts came out perfect.
You could make a metal sleeve that sits inside your heated cylinder that you could remove for different colors or make removable barrels Of course the machine would have to be altered to work.
The type of video I wanted. Nice!
Glad you liked it!
Another great vid John.
Glad you enjoyed it
Would it be possible to make a mold in the shape of the ribbon you chop up to enable to purge the system of the previous colour. I am thinking this might, let you re-use the ribbon and have less waste. Can you also add darker colour? or use the waste you chop up for a part wher the colour is not important?
I think you need more nozzle for any other colour 🤔🤔🤔
Love the videos. Q: Why don't you ever use ejection pins? Perhaps you covered that in the past and I missed it...
Thanks. I have used ejector pins a few times. But most of the time I make molds for my manual machines that don't have a mechanism to activate ejector pins. I also talked to some other people who make injection molds for markets where volumes are small (model train accessory parts), and they typically don't use ejector pins either. It makes it a lot easier to make the mold.
Use a purge compound between colors and run colors from light to dark. Have you looked at someone like filabot or filastruder for pellets?
I'd been looking around for a place to get small amounts of purging compound. I see that Filabot sells it. Thanks!
You have two separate issues here. The green material issue is one, but there is also "diesel effect" scorching happening in the mold ( that is what that smoke was). You need to vent this mold both from the side opposite the sprue, as well as in the center. Usually this is done by flattening one side of an injector pin in center the diesel pocket.
I don't think this machine has enough injection pressure to be able to get scorching. I know for sure this wasn't my issue. After publishing this video, I used about 1/2 to 1 cup of white PP to purge the machine. Then I reloaded the orange ABS and every part was perfect. Complete orange, with no dark marks.
@@JohnSL and the smoke ?
Hmm. I see your point. I'll have to do some more research.
Hi.
Thanks to your videos, I got interested in injection molding.
For starters, I want to build a simple piston injection molding machine.
Can you give me the diameter of the hole in the nozzle of your machine?
This stream of plastic looked like 4-5 mm.
Thanks.
David.
This is an AB-100 modified to be more like an AB-150. You can find the specs here: www.abplasticinjectors.com/ab-100
is the Green in the hopper ???? :)
When I said hopper, the "hopper" is just a cone that leads to the barrel. I typically fill the barrel to about 1/4" from the top of the barrel.
Try using some mold release!
Good point. I have some somewhere, and I'll have to look for it.
Stellar content as usual.
Also I am designing a product (usb otg device for smart phones) would you be interested in making a mold for me?
I am familiar with Cad and can get you a fusion file (not just an stl)
Probably a few more weeks out on the design thought.
Sure. I'm not fast by any means. You can contact me either on Facebook, or via the contact page of my channel (you have to click on a button to see my email address).
YAY
Thanks for the video, you repeated the same purge clip :)
My bad, sorry about that. I could have sworn I reviewed the entire video before posting it.