I'm in love with my 2015 500e most fun I've ever had particularly when gas prices are 5 dollars a gallon. My whole family wants to drive it ... Save money. I've been tempted to buy two. I'm to stop that Fiat decided not to sell the 500e anymore in the US ... I've been working on my lower control arm and I must say it is very tight in their literally pain in the neck hands butt blowback neck knuckles saving a few bucks all have anything else to do
by the way my other car is a 911 1982 Targa sits in the garage I crank it up drive it around once every few weeks ... It needs about 10,000 dollars worth of work and I can buy another Fiat 500e so in the garage it will be for long time.
I have to ask what you hope to achieve by lowering the front roll stiffness in a McP strut car with the majority of its weight on the front. Front wheel camber will suffer more in roll. If anything, the 500e needs a bit more roll stiffness both front and rear.
What you have done is gave your insurance an out when you get in an accident and they can attribute it to the lack of a sway bar and steering control at higher speeds. Additionally you have just reduced your force that hold the tires to the road. This is a very dangerous proposition all because you did not want to put it on a hoist, drop 4 bolts support your engine with a spin jack and pull the sway bar out and put it back in. You actually created more work for yourself doing what you did by cutting it. This should not even be posted to teach people what to do. IT IS FLAT OUT DANEROUS AND SHOULD BE CENSORED!
Thanks for the video. My sway bar hits the lower A arm on one side, causing a clunk, dealer wants $2300 to fix it, the car's not worth it. I took off the links and wired up the sway bar, the clunks stopped. I was wondering about how much crap I'd have to disassemble to get the sway bar out, now I know, not much just cut it out.
Glad the video helped you out. Honestly, the "clunk" is most likely coming from a worn out bushing/bearing on one or both of the "links" as is evident in fixing the problem. Could just replace both of those for about $50. Otherwise, the sway bar really won't be missed.
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I'm in love with my 2015 500e most fun I've ever had particularly when gas prices are 5 dollars a gallon. My whole family wants to drive it ... Save money. I've been tempted to buy two. I'm to stop that Fiat decided not to sell the 500e anymore in the US ... I've been working on my lower control arm and I must say it is very tight in their literally pain in the neck hands butt blowback neck knuckles saving a few bucks all have anything else to do
by the way my other car is a 911 1982 Targa sits in the garage I crank it up drive it around once every few weeks ... It needs about 10,000 dollars worth of work and I can buy another Fiat 500e so in the garage it will be for long time.
@Stephen Rodrigues Hey Stephen, what city are you in?
I have to ask what you hope to achieve by lowering the front roll stiffness in a McP strut car with the majority of its weight on the front. Front wheel camber will suffer more in roll. If anything, the 500e needs a bit more roll stiffness both front and rear.
if u dropped the rear subframe bolts and just loosen the front bolts with a jack supporting the rear. it wouldve had enough clearance to remove it.
What you have done is gave your insurance an out when you get in an accident and they can attribute it to the lack of a sway bar and steering control at higher speeds. Additionally you have just reduced your force that hold the tires to the road. This is a very dangerous proposition all because you did not want to put it on a hoist, drop 4 bolts support your engine with a spin jack and pull the sway bar out and put it back in. You actually created more work for yourself doing what you did by cutting it. This should not even be posted to teach people what to do. IT IS FLAT OUT DANEROUS AND SHOULD BE CENSORED!
no not true insurance is insurance has to pay for all accidents is not his fault.
many race cars don't use sway bars
How to remove roll bar…cut it in to 3 pieces.
Thanks for the video. My sway bar hits the lower A arm on one side, causing a clunk, dealer wants $2300 to fix it, the car's not worth it. I took off the links and wired up the sway bar, the clunks stopped. I was wondering about how much crap I'd have to disassemble to get the sway bar out, now I know, not much just cut it out.
Glad the video helped you out. Honestly, the "clunk" is most likely coming from a worn out bushing/bearing on one or both of the "links" as is evident in fixing the problem. Could just replace both of those for about $50. Otherwise, the sway bar really won't be missed.
This is the worst tutorial ever