I would think that would work, but I’ll have to give it a try. You just want to hang on tight so the honing guide and blade don’t get thrown across the room 😀
Thank you. This looks like a big improvement on the Worksharp, and will save money and time with the sandpaper disk setup. For wide chisels or plane irons, I would not use it. Like on the Worksharp, the rotation speed increases from the center to the circumference, and you end up with skewed blades over time because more metal is removed from the progressively faster rotation from the center to the outside of the disk. This is visible on the 2” chisel shown in the video. However, this jig could work great on curved carving gouges since only one point of the curve touches the disk at any point in time. I may build one. For my chiselers and plane irons, I use the Rob Cosman method, which takes about one minute, which encourages me to go to the sharpening stones whenever a blade shows the slightest sign of dullness. This just requires a 2 sided, 300/1000 Trend diamond stone and a 16,000 grit Shapton ceramic stone. With double micro bevels, I can get razor sharp edges in less than a minute, and they’re straight and square. You can start with Rob’s magnetic training guide until you develop the muscle memory to hit the correct angles without a guide. Watch Rob’s sharpening video on TH-cam.
Since Logan shows that you can use both sides of the machine to sharpen, might the skewing challenge be neutralized by performing a couple of passes on one side of the disc and then a like number of passes on the other side, alternating left and right until it's time to switch discs?
@@danielelse3914 You can reduce the skewing effect by switching from one side to the other, but you cannot eliminate it. As shown in the video, when sharpening the wheel is rotating towards the edge of the tool. When honing on the leather wheel, the wheel is rotating away from the edge. The sandpaper cuts a lot faster when the wheel is rotating into the edge rather than away from it. So, even if you alternate sharpening from one side to the other, you'll still end up with SOME skewing effect. Whether it would be large enough to worry about is another question.
Baloney. I've been using a WS3000 for 3-4 years and it does not skew anything. It's a non-issue. The only time you have to use coarse grits is if you have a damaged edge, beyond that you're honing a micro-bevel on micro-mesh. It's a great little system, cheap, fast, and just about zero hassle.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects th-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
A clever device. You could get a secondary bevel by adding a coin or two under the ends of the support arm. Thanks for the video and thumbs up to crush a troll.
I have a torn down 4" jointer that has the same size pulleys and belt as this does. I might try to build this with that small motor instead of using my drill press.
Just a tip when you're sharpening anything. Use a black "sharpie" felt pen to ink the edge of the blade at each grit change so you can see better when you've actually sharpened to the very edge of the blade and sharpened the edge completely. Especially helpful to make sure you've sharpened all the way to the edge with your cut angle. It makes the "sliced finger test" at the end way less painful too
Chuck, you mean a black Sharpie like the one he used in the beginning to ink the edge of the blade? Like that one? What a great tip you gave him. Did you watch the video there Chuckles?
@@marineman2298 by gollies "dick-les" i watched 14: 41 seconds of it and dammed if my 60 year old eyes didn't miss that. Sorry marine man you must be quite the semen to have caught my mistake. Otherwise what an excellent video i love this machine. Hopefully with a few more views I'll catch all the wealth of information. Thank you soooo much for correcting me. Sorry to the editer for being redundant. My bad... and no, i spelled seaman right mr marine. Go army
I have the worksharp system and have noticed that not only is it spinning quickly, but that the outer edge moves faster than the center and will remove metal faster potentially causing an uneven bevel. Is the bar centered on the wheel so that you can move to the other side and even the bevel?
At the point of contact though, the inner and outer edge of the disc move perpendicular to the blade and so behaves as a linear motion. But the surface of the disc WILL wear more quickly as you approach the pivot point because of the reduced circumference (greater angular velocity).
@@SSJIndy the outer disc is moving faster than the inner so more material is being removed from the edge of the chisel on the outside resulting in uneven sharpening
THis looks like a great idea/build. However, one side of whatever blade is being sharpened will get ground more simply because it's getting more sandpaper action. It's the side towards the outside of the disc. The only way to come close to making it sharpen even is to skew that tool rest to where the end of the blade is pointing towards the radius of the disc.
I apologize I didn't catch your questions earlier... the sources are listed on page 10 of the plans. Most of the metal parts are sourced through McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) Which parts are you looking for?
I also meant to say that I think its better to remove the burr on a normal water stone as it is not easy to judge how you approach the wheel and you may not be perfectly flat.
I have been using a worksharp and you were spot on with your criticisms of it. The larger size, variable speed from the drill press makes so much sense, plus the tool rest is in a more appropriate and useful spot.
Which is perfectly fine unless you’re a pro who uses ten or more chisels and three or four planes regularly (not to mention carving tools). Then that two dollar stone and four dollar guide will burn half a day. I dont know any pros who have a half a day to blow sharpening.
Shouldn't you be sharpening on the other side of the disc so the sandpaper is cutting away from the edge? Reduce the chance of cutting into your paper.
I know it isn't intuitive, but the MDF doesn't have any give to it so there is very little chance of it catching. I don't see any reason you couldn't sharpen from the other side though I like I did with the leather strop.
Chase - We published ShopNotes magazine when it was in publication. So, we sell them because they're ours! We're amongst the most vocal ShopNotes mourners.
I think you have done a really good job, but I would prefer to work on the other side with the platten/abrasive running away from me. That way do are less likely to suffer a dig in and ruining the paper. I agree with the previous comment about the peripheral speed but at these diameters and low speeds I don't think its a massive problem. I plan to build one similar as I have an 8" diameter glass platten which is about 5/8" thick and perfectly flat. Well done for coming up with a novel way of powering the wheel as it does away with the need for a separate motor. Great job - Stay safe.
I like this machine, but you don't have to "peel off" Worksharp abrasives (except to occasionally replace them)... that's baloney and BTW, the Worksharp 3000 works great, there's no downside that I know of...except you will need several of the glass disks, BUT, *unlike* this contraption, you can put an abrasive disk on each side of the glass disk. So 3 disks give you 6 grits. And the glass disks are dead flat - I've yet to see MDF that's dead flat. I do wish Worksharp would make a larger machine - maybe 8" disks - so you could sharpen wider blades.
I wasn't meaning to bash the Worksharp if it came off that way. It is a really good tool from my experience. This is just another shop-made alternative that I really like, as well. As for your criticism of MDF, I've never encountered MDF that isn't dead flat (unless it has taken on moisture). As long as the MDF is sealed it makes for an excellent, inexpensive alternative to glass. I do appreciate your input and the discussion though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yeah, I definitely wouldn’t go out and buy a drill press just to power a sharpener... it’s more of an exercise in if you already have a motor on a machine you own what are some other ways you can use it. We’ve built drill press or lathe powered belt sanders too. Might as well get double or triple duty out of your machines.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Why do people just seem to look for something to find wrong with the video. I don't see where they have taken the time to make anything or do anything but complain for that matter.
I don't know if you meant scary sharp blade or scary sharp tool. I don't know if you ever seen what a drill press can do to you if it catches a sleeve or a glove but I have. It's hideous watching the EMTs roll the chuck backwards to remove the mechanics skin and glove from the chuck. I'd absolutely look into some kind of shield to protect your hand. The tool idea is genius otherwise.
about six years ago I built a similar grinder, not driven by a column drill but by a hand drill. I always grind tangentially to the grinding wheel to avoid removing more metal on one side than on the other.
as someone who does both metal and woodworking, there is a reason that you sharpen toward the cutter. when sharpening toward a cutter you don't get tearout of the steel. Yes tearout. As the edge becomes thin, grinding away from the edge pulls out little pieces of steel, toward it, its supported. I have been like you wanting to grind away from the edge, especially on soft water stones. but as I learned about sharpening at a microscopic level I found out it does not produce as sharp an edge. that being said, I still would sharpen away from the edge on soft waterstones, and if using diamond plates with holes, but if using anything that will support it, I would sharpen toward the edge. just offering some info... not looking for a fight.
These comments regarding "long sleeves;" maybe we should call OSHA so they can demand guards are put on everything rendering you unproductive, and fine you into oblivion which will ensure that you go out of business. That way no one will get an owie of which *all Americans are convinced that thats how life should be;* oh, and the pizza *has to be there is 30 mins too, or is has to be free.* smh
Bill Astell - Dang! Got us with the clean shop burn! Yeah, this is our video studio where we shoot the tv show, so they don’t let us make a mess in here... too much dust messes with the lights and cameras. Now to go cut off my sleeves I guess. 😀
its ok i say i will get them some what sharp if you want something sharp your gonna have to use a very very fine grit stone to me sharp is straight razor sharp and i can do that by hand with a razor stone not sandpaper
That's super dangerous to sharpen the blade against the rotation like that. If that edge caught that wheel, you could have a potentially serious situation on your hands. Always sharpen your blade with the rotation going away from the blade's edge, not towards it. Because you don't want your blade to dig into the material and possibly cause a serious accident.
Your machine is just a wooden copy of the Lapsharp System that is brilliant but I think no longer made, such a shame given that it was designed and made in the USA.
We’ve sealed the mdf disks really well with lacquer and it hasn’t seem to be a problem. Of course I wouldn’t soak them in a tank for 24 hours but with limited amount of moisture that actually gets on the disk it seems ok. Plus, it’s not water - it’s windex. ;)
except that woodsmith used to be ShopNotes and you'd only get the plans if you bought the whole magazine. Times haven't changed THAT much, plus I think they are fully entitled to the income considering how much time and effort they put into their plans!
We do put a lot of time and effort into our plans and publications but we do offer some free, as well... Keep an eye on this page - we are always adding freebies: www.woodsmithplans.com/free-plans/
That is ridiculous ...Sigh. Why should a for-profit publisher offer things that require graphic artists, typographers, editors, publishers, and shop talent.. all of whom are on salary, require overhead, etc. etc. "for free" ? What have you offered to the general public "for free" lately Daniel?
I like that. The stability and the ease of control is wonderful
Was this ever featured in the physical magazine?
Yes, it was in ShopNotes Magazine issue #107.
I bet my Shopsmith would be a good base for powering a horizontal disc sander.
I think so too... Those shopsmiths are pretty versatile and handy. :)
Why are you holding the Blade against the direction of travel of the sanding surface?
sweet design and jig. The drill press has many hidden talents.
Very true!
What is 12mm plywood used for?
lovely toolsharp system.Could you incorporate using a honing guide instead of the flip bar?
I would think that would work, but I’ll have to give it a try. You just want to hang on tight so the honing guide and blade don’t get thrown across the room 😀
I
Thank you. This looks like a big improvement on the Worksharp, and will save money and time with the sandpaper disk setup. For wide chisels or plane irons, I would not use it. Like on the Worksharp, the rotation speed increases from the center to the circumference, and you end up with skewed blades over time because more metal is removed from the progressively faster rotation from the center to the outside of the disk. This is visible on the 2” chisel shown in the video. However, this jig could work great on curved carving gouges since only one point of the curve touches the disk at any point in time. I may build one. For my chiselers and plane irons, I use the Rob Cosman method, which takes about one minute, which encourages me to go to the sharpening stones whenever a blade shows the slightest sign of dullness. This just requires a 2 sided, 300/1000 Trend diamond stone and a 16,000 grit Shapton ceramic stone. With double micro bevels, I can get razor sharp edges in less than a minute, and they’re straight and square. You can start with Rob’s magnetic training guide until you develop the muscle memory to hit the correct angles without a guide. Watch Rob’s sharpening video on TH-cam.
Since Logan shows that you can use both sides of the machine to sharpen, might the skewing challenge be neutralized by performing a couple of passes on one side of the disc and then a like number of passes on the other side, alternating left and right until it's time to switch discs?
Yeah, I think that would be a fine solution.
@@danielelse3914 You can reduce the skewing effect by switching from one side to the other, but you cannot eliminate it. As shown in the video, when sharpening the wheel is rotating towards the edge of the tool. When honing on the leather wheel, the wheel is rotating away from the edge. The sandpaper cuts a lot faster when the wheel is rotating into the edge rather than away from it. So, even if you alternate sharpening from one side to the other, you'll still end up with SOME skewing effect. Whether it would be large enough to worry about is another question.
Why not skew the bar?
Baloney. I've been using a WS3000 for 3-4 years and it does not skew anything. It's a non-issue. The only time you have to use coarse grits is if you have a damaged edge, beyond that you're honing a micro-bevel on micro-mesh. It's a great little system, cheap, fast, and just about zero hassle.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects th-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
A clever device. You could get a secondary bevel by adding a coin or two under the ends of the support arm. Thanks for the video and thumbs up to crush a troll.
Great tip, Thanks!
I have a torn down 4" jointer that has the same size pulleys and belt as this does. I might try to build this with that small motor instead of using my drill press.
A great use of the parts! Let me know how it goes.
Just a tip when you're sharpening anything. Use a black "sharpie" felt pen to ink the edge of the blade at each grit change so you can see better when you've actually sharpened to the very edge of the blade and sharpened the edge completely. Especially helpful to make sure you've sharpened all the way to the edge with your cut angle. It makes the "sliced finger test" at the end way less painful too
Chuck, you mean a black Sharpie like the one he used in the beginning to ink the edge of the blade? Like that one? What a great tip you gave him. Did you watch the video there Chuckles?
@@marineman2298 by gollies "dick-les" i watched 14: 41 seconds of it and dammed if my 60 year old eyes didn't miss that. Sorry marine man you must be quite the semen to have caught my mistake. Otherwise what an excellent video i love this machine. Hopefully with a few more views I'll catch all the wealth of information. Thank you soooo much for correcting me. Sorry to the editer for being redundant. My bad... and no, i spelled seaman right mr marine. Go army
I have the worksharp system and have noticed that not only is it spinning quickly, but that the outer edge moves faster than the center and will remove metal faster potentially causing an uneven bevel. Is the bar centered on the wheel so that you can move to the other side and even the bevel?
Yeah, I think you could move to the opposite side of the wheel if that is a problem.
At the point of contact though, the inner and outer edge of the disc move perpendicular to the blade and so behaves as a linear motion. But the surface of the disc WILL wear more quickly as you approach the pivot point because of the reduced circumference (greater angular velocity).
@@SSJIndy the outer disc is moving faster than the inner so more material is being removed from the edge of the chisel on the outside resulting in uneven sharpening
THis looks like a great idea/build. However, one side of whatever blade is being sharpened will get ground more simply because it's getting more sandpaper action. It's the side towards the outside of the disc. The only way to come close to making it sharpen even is to skew that tool rest to where the end of the blade is pointing towards the radius of the disc.
Bought the plans. No info about where you purchased the metal parts.
I really like this idea, I’m going to have to build one! Thank you for sharing this!
You're welcome... let us know how the build goes.
Woodsmith I can’t seem to find the plans though!
You can get them here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/drill-press-sharpening-station/
No info on the required accessories. Where did you get them? I have the plans but no info there.
I apologize I didn't catch your questions earlier... the sources are listed on page 10 of the plans. Most of the metal parts are sourced through McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) Which parts are you looking for?
Woodsmith Thanks. I just never saw them. Big fan.
I also meant to say that I think its better to remove the burr on a normal water stone as it is not easy to judge how you approach the wheel and you may not be perfectly flat.
Logan that looks more like a slick that would be used in Timber Frame style construction, and yeah I know a slick is just a giant chisel.
I think you are correct... and yes, it is a GIANT chisel. :)
I have been using a worksharp and you were spot on with your criticisms of it. The larger size, variable speed from the drill press makes so much sense, plus the tool rest is in a more appropriate and useful spot.
No, lots of wet-or-dry sand papers are used on metals.
А если не секрет,как фиксируется абразив?
but can it sharpen planer blade...
It can sharpen a hand plane blade, but we're going to need to make bigger discs to sharpen a planer blade. :)
I have a two dollar sharpening stone and a 4 dollar guide . lol works perfectly if you sharpen your gear regularly!
Absolutely, if you have a method you are good at and do regularly, that is what is really important.
Which is perfectly fine unless you’re a pro who uses ten or more chisels and three or four planes regularly (not to mention carving tools). Then that two dollar stone and four dollar guide will burn half a day. I dont know any pros who have a half a day to blow sharpening.
Maybe best to buy a fine grinding wheel and flip it on its side
Worth a try. :)
Is that sandpaper or emery cloth?
Sand paper is for wood.
Shouldn't you be sharpening on the other side of the disc so the sandpaper is cutting away from the edge? Reduce the chance of cutting into your paper.
I know it isn't intuitive, but the MDF doesn't have any give to it so there is very little chance of it catching. I don't see any reason you couldn't sharpen from the other side though I like I did with the leather strop.
Woodsmith o
Those aren't your plans - those were plans taken from the 2009 ShopNotes Magazine vol 18 issue 107 so where do you get off selling them as your own?
I looked up ShopNotes Magazine and they are no longer publishing but their plans are now integrated into Woodsmith.
Chase - We published ShopNotes magazine when it was in publication. So, we sell them because they're ours! We're amongst the most vocal ShopNotes mourners.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine - Ah I see...
Sorry to come off the way I did, just looking out for ShopNotes... well, you guys. lol
Seems like the edge would grab that and bury in slinging it backwards.
Yeah, probably should have done it on the other side just to be safe.
That's what I was thinking,which sent me to the comments!
Haven't seen one of them in my country seems easier than a standard grinder
Mindblowing..
Thanks!
I think you have done a really good job, but I would prefer to work on the other side with the platten/abrasive running away from me. That way do are less likely to suffer a dig in and ruining the paper.
I agree with the previous comment about the peripheral speed but at these diameters and low speeds I don't think its a massive problem. I plan to build one similar as I have an 8" diameter glass platten which is about 5/8" thick and perfectly flat. Well done for coming up with a novel way of powering the wheel as it does away with the need for a separate motor. Great job - Stay safe.
Great job! keep it up
Thanks, will do!
If i'm wrong then my bad. But it is not stable. The disk looks like its wobble. Which mean you will never get a flat and straight cut.
watched it , and Im not scared at all.
Just don't fall asleep... it will haunt your dreeeeaaaammmms!!!! oooooooooo
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine
I shall expect , , the unexpected .
@@tomthompson7400 - Stay woke!
I like this machine, but you don't have to "peel off" Worksharp abrasives (except to occasionally replace them)... that's baloney and BTW, the Worksharp 3000 works great, there's no downside that I know of...except you will need several of the glass disks, BUT, *unlike* this contraption, you can put an abrasive disk on each side of the glass disk. So 3 disks give you 6 grits. And the glass disks are dead flat - I've yet to see MDF that's dead flat. I do wish Worksharp would make a larger machine - maybe 8" disks - so you could sharpen wider blades.
I wasn't meaning to bash the Worksharp if it came off that way. It is a really good tool from my experience. This is just another shop-made alternative that I really like, as well.
As for your criticism of MDF, I've never encountered MDF that isn't dead flat (unless it has taken on moisture). As long as the MDF is sealed it makes for an excellent, inexpensive alternative to glass.
I do appreciate your input and the discussion though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
But they don’t, so you can’t.
Идея со стеклом или зеркалом идеальный вариант,но проблема в постоянном приклеивании абразива,по мере того как он сотрётся.
Hook it up to a battery drill
That would make it portable. ;)
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine
Yup and you could use an old electric engine hooked up to a good 18v battery or a 36v battery no problem then
Windex , this guy has some Greek in his family tree !
LOL... windex is good for everything. It's practically medicine. :)
$500 drill press being used to do a job of $30 DC motor with speed controller?
Rube Goldberg would be proud.
Yeah, I definitely wouldn’t go out and buy a drill press just to power a sharpener... it’s more of an exercise in if you already have a motor on a machine you own what are some other ways you can use it. We’ve built drill press or lathe powered belt sanders too. Might as well get double or triple duty out of your machines.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Why do people just seem to look for something to find wrong with the video. I don't see where they have taken the time to make anything or do anything but complain for that matter.
Where is the DIY version? I'm not interested in ads.
Buy the plans or figure it out yourself??????
I don't know if you meant scary sharp blade or scary sharp tool. I don't know if you ever seen what a drill press can do to you if it catches a sleeve or a glove but I have. It's hideous watching the EMTs roll the chuck backwards to remove the mechanics skin and glove from the chuck. I'd absolutely look into some kind of shield to protect your hand. The tool idea is genius otherwise.
Scary sharp blade at the pointy end of your tool. :)
Thank you for the reminder about loose sleeves and tools... safety first.
Doesn't the outside of the wheel actually turn faster than the inside. Shouldn't you use both sides of the wheel.
Yes, the outside of the wheel turns faster, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. You can definitely use both sides of the wheel though.
about six years ago I built a similar grinder, not driven by a column drill but by a hand drill. I always grind tangentially to the grinding wheel to avoid removing more metal on one side than on the other.
WorkSmart sharpens AWAY from the edge. Recommend using opposite side.
I think that is a fair recommendation. Better safe than sorry.
Yup I kinda agree, with it coming towards you like you demoed here it can grab and rip the paper wasting it
as someone who does both metal and woodworking, there is a reason that you sharpen toward the cutter. when sharpening toward a cutter you don't get tearout of the steel. Yes tearout. As the edge becomes thin, grinding away from the edge pulls out little pieces of steel, toward it, its supported. I have been like you wanting to grind away from the edge, especially on soft water stones. but as I learned about sharpening at a microscopic level I found out it does not produce as sharp an edge. that being said, I still would sharpen away from the edge on soft waterstones, and if using diamond plates with holes, but if using anything that will support it, I would sharpen toward the edge.
just offering some info... not looking for a fight.
@@jsteifel and you are absolutely correct
These comments regarding "long sleeves;" maybe we should call OSHA so they can demand guards are put on everything rendering you unproductive, and fine you into oblivion which will ensure that you go out of business. That way no one will get an owie of which *all Americans are convinced that thats how life should be;* oh, and the pizza *has to be there is 30 mins too, or is has to be free.* smh
Best comment on this topic in a while
Ya built this a few weeks ago and only works on chisels that are very long...
long sleeves around powered equipment that is a big no no.
You are correct - thank you for the reminder.
Don't worry about it Denver. You can tell by the cleanliness of the tools and shop he never uses them so the longs sleeves are fine.
Bill Astell - Dang! Got us with the clean shop burn! Yeah, this is our video studio where we shoot the tv show, so they don’t let us make a mess in here... too much dust messes with the lights and cameras. Now to go cut off my sleeves I guess. 😀
Sleeves!
Touche.
OMG roll your sleeves up. you came close a few times getting caught.
I think it looks closer due to the camera angle than it actually is, but you are right about the sleeves. They should be up a little higher.
its ok i say i will get them some what sharp if you want something sharp your gonna have to use a very very fine grit stone to me sharp is straight razor sharp and i can do that by hand with a razor stone not sandpaper
Over kill
I'm going to take that as a compliment... OverKill is my middle name. :)
MDF and liquid anything do not work well together, “ sealed” or not.
I would tend to agree with you, but we've sealed our disks really well and have not had a problem with them taking on moisture at all.
Plus if you use the moisture resistant one as well as if you seal it with superglue it works even better.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine скажите а как фиксируется абразив на МДФ?это ж не очень удобно наверное?
That's super dangerous to sharpen the blade against the rotation like that. If that edge caught that wheel, you could have a potentially serious situation on your hands. Always sharpen your blade with the rotation going away from the blade's edge, not towards it. Because you don't want your blade to dig into the material and possibly cause a serious accident.
Nonsense
Someone’s got beef with WorkSharp
Did it come off that way? I guess I wasn’t intending to throw shade at Worksharp... this is just our shop-built take on sharpening.
Your machine is just a wooden copy of the Lapsharp System that is brilliant but I think no longer made, such a shame given that it was designed and made in the USA.
Yeah, they are pretty similar in concept, and this sharpener was made in the USA too. ;)
Please sharpe from the other side . Let the paper go away from your blade not in to it like what you did to polish !!
You are correct, that is probably the better option.
MDF and water? Lol.
We’ve sealed the mdf disks really well with lacquer and it hasn’t seem to be a problem. Of course I wouldn’t soak them in a tank for 24 hours but with limited amount of moisture that actually gets on the disk it seems ok. Plus, it’s not water - it’s windex. ;)
Great Tool but, I do this by hand on a granite stone with paper much safer and less time all the way around.
sand paper wtf is that
Ah, for the old days when project plans would be offered for free … Sigh.
except that woodsmith used to be ShopNotes and you'd only get the plans if you bought the whole magazine. Times haven't changed THAT much, plus I think they are fully entitled to the income considering how much time and effort they put into their plans!
We do put a lot of time and effort into our plans and publications but we do offer some free, as well... Keep an eye on this page - we are always adding freebies: www.woodsmithplans.com/free-plans/
That is ridiculous ...Sigh. Why should a for-profit publisher offer things that require graphic artists, typographers, editors, publishers, and shop talent.. all of whom are on salary, require overhead, etc. etc. "for free" ? What have you offered to the general public "for free" lately Daniel?
Mmmmm I like that
Thanks!