Trying to FIX: Robotic Vacuum Cleaner - Eufy RoboVac 30C
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ม.ค. 2020
- Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me attempting to repair a robotic vacuum cleaner purchased from eBay. Apparently the fault is that it is not charging even when the battery was replaced.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
The coating on the board is called conformal coating. The liquid damage would probably be a lot worse without it.
Thanks for the info :-)
Loved the excitement you had when your doorbell rang for the B&O delivery. Normally, persons aren't so happy to receive a defective product.
Vince, I was watching another of your videos last night and was telling my wife how impressed I was and how far you've come in the last 10 months. From your diagnostic skills to your soldering skills. I remember your first videos w/ the hot air station and kapton tape and now how today your end result is very professional. Well done my friend, keep it up!
yeah, just made a comment around this after spotting his sub count then scrolling down to see this comment
Thank you so much :-)
@@Mymatevince thank you. look forward to seeing your new videos pop up. At this point you are teaching me things. All this in ten months, way to go!
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@@daveglo100 kkr
Whenever I click on your "trying to fix" videos, I hope for a long one. Always dissappointed to see an easy fix.
I guess I just like to see you work hard for your videos :)
One of the most pleasing things I have watched in months. 👍 Definitely worth a revisit.
Great job Vince! Now sit your cat on top of it, turn it on, record, and then add your video to the millions of other cat videos here on TH-cam.
Great fix, Vince! I love the jubilation in your voice when the end result is a success. I'd love to see a revisit with it working with the remote, Alexa etc please
Me also
Vince, that SK34A is most likely for reverse voltage protection to prevent damage from someone using the wrong power adapter.
Oh, and Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key".
Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince I can recomend Electrolube SCC3 clear conformal coating ...I've used it many many times on equipment that operates outdoors..hasn't let me down yet...Also I'm impressed with you're thirst for knowledge.
ijaygee1 scotch key is the key to unlock your minibar 😹 cheers
Fantastic fix - these things are fun to have but way too expensive to buy new.
Well done!
Good job, Vince.
When in doubt as to what part you're looking at, there is usually a designation printed on the board next to the part composed of a letter(s) and its unique number on the board.
R is resistor
C is capacitor
F is fuse
T is transformer
TP is a test point
Q is transistor
L is inductor
J is jumper
U is an IC or integrated circuit
D is diode or LED
S or SW is switch
Those are some of the common ones off the top of my head.
You know a diode is similar to a one way valve. A diode will conduct in only one direction but it will have a voltage drop across it. If you feed 3V through a common silicon diode, the voltage out the other end will be about 2.4V . The same 3V through a Schottkey diode will yield about 2.7V because it has a lower voltage drop. That is why when you measured them with the meter they gave you different readings; the meter shows you the voltage drop across the diode. The Schottkey diode you replaced with a silicon will result in a lower voltage for that part of the circuit.
A Schottkey also has the ability to switch much faster than a standard silicon diode. A high frequency signal through a standard diode will either work erratically or not at all.
Thank you for the info :-)
I especially enjoy the videos where you solve the issue(s) and bring something back to life! Congrats, Vince!
the bit about diodes is simple: if you use a geranium diode with a forward voltage drop of 0.6 volt it is with a current of 3 amps P=UxI 0.6x3= 1.8 watts of heat. with a scottky diode with a forward voltage of 0.2 volt is ofc 0.2x3 = 0.6 watts so less heat to dissipate into the PCB.
So, now for the fast recovery, simply said, imagine this: there is a guy in front of your door and you let him in, the taller the guy the more volt, the heavier the guy the more amps, the bigger legs, the quicker he is and the lighter, stronger the gate the faster you can close it behind him and more force of him hitting it the door can handle.
So with a geranium diode, the door is large, made of simple OSB on an iron frame, it is big, heavy and takes a few seconds to close. 230v 50 hz no problem, the time the guy (230 V 5 Amps 50Hz) turns around the door is shut (simple bridge rectifier) now you get a guy bin trough a gate already, so 300v somewhat DC 1A 150Hz) so the guy is tall, light but he reacts pretty fast, so i need a gate that is light so i can close it fast, needs to be tall for him, but does not has to be strong. so aluminum with some plywood should be good. now comes switching voltage, like switching power supply's, 340 volt 10kHz 3 Amps. Now we get tall guy's who are heavy and fast as feck. now we need a diode what has a high current, fast recovery and is strong with reverse voltage. so a gate what is 3,4 meters tall, 3 meters wide, but can close in a few microseconds after they past the gate. Also, remember with witch each bang to a gate a bit of heat is generated . I hope my real simple explanation of diodes helps a bit.
I think you meant standard silicon diode has forward voltage of 0.6 volts. Germanium diodes have a forward voltage of about 0.3 volts. I agree with the rest of your comment.
@@WildSccotsman you are absolutely right, something about Wochenend und saufen
The doide on top next to the connector is an diode to kill spikes it does it slow so it is an cheap silicon diode
Great fix Vince 👍🏼 I have to say I enjoy these videos where you don’t have a spare to compare with. Really shows your problem solving on a more difficult and technical way
Hi Vince, just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to fix my own robotic vacuum cleaner.
Wasn't anything near as difficult as yours as all I did was replace the battery (and soldered the correct connector on the new battery) but still, it's fixed.
Thanks!
I learned so much from watching this video. And, I fixed my "drop sensor" problem. Just needed removing/cleaning all around (bottom and top) my drop sensors and got rid of my beeping problem.
Really enjoyed this one, Vince. And I agree, that residue seems to be a protective coating likely to guard against casual exposure to moisture.
This is the first video I have seen of yours and I really enjoyed it. It was so suspenseful for me and I was so excited when you got it working. Great job!!!
Well done Vince, nice fix and thoroughly enjoyable to watch.
Thanks Mike👌
Your subs skyrocketed congrats 500k, 1mil around the corner 👏👏👏 🚀
Thank you Paul, you're a good guy :-)
1 year later and halfway there !
Hi Vince! Love your videos. The Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key". Just thought I'd let you know for future videos!
Hi Vince, such an entertaining video thank you! That big black component marked R 400 (around 33:35 ) is a current sensing resistor. It is a special kind of 1ohm resistor with a high power rating (hence its size). In this case it is being used as a reference to be able to provide feedback to the microcontroller about how much charge is left in the battery. ( By knowing the Resistance of the reference - 1 ohm - and by reading a current value - Ohms law you can be used to calculate the voltage of the battery pack. Great video! would love to see more repairs like this one!
Brilliant info. Thank you :-)
Excellent, thank you for taking the time to post. Helped us immensely to find where a cable went.
Vince ,
As you buy mostly from Ebay ,surch for "SMD sample book" you have them for resistors and caps and diodes"
You will always have the most common spare smd parts for a reasonable price to do your testing.
Can find them cheaper on Ali if you want.
just buy what you think need the most and buy it and the next month you can buy the caps book ond so on .they don't take much space and you always have something that fit.
And buy the 0805 ,these are the most common size ,and if you have to replace a 0605 you can mostly fit a 0805 and the other way to ,if it is a bigger size .
If it works you can always buy a correct size part or leave it in.
Nice video again.
I woke up this morning, opened my browser, checked youtube, noticed I didnt push the like button on this video when I watched it last night. Shame on me. Luckily the problem can be easily rectified. HITTING THAT LIKE BUTTON REALLY HARD!
Haha, thank you Nandi :-)
Schottky diode is basically a diode but has a couple of differences compared to a "normal" silicone diode. First Schottky diode has a lower voltage drop, meaning that when you replaced Schottky with a silicon diode you got slightly lower output voltage. You lost around 0.3V. Also, Schottky opens faster. Diodes do not open immediately after forward voltage is applied. It takes some time and this time is shorter for Schottky. It can be important in circuits requiring a better reaction time. However, Schottky diodes are more sensitive to voltage and current higher than their rated values.
And you were right about parameters. Forward current is the current which can flow through it safely, and reverse voltage is voltage which this diode will safely block. Going over any of these parameters will most definitely kill it. And yes, you can relatively safely replace a diode with another one rated for slightly higher values.
For anyone wondering how to pronounce it without breaking their tongue: th-cam.com/video/yxitM1QWEzk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Andrews for explaining it in a simple easy to understand way :-)
Love your channel Vince. For me best for trying to fix videos.
YEEEES! FINALLY SOME THING I HAVE BROKEN AT HOME IN THIS MOMENT!!!!
You spilled water around the battery connector too?
break it open and tell VInce what the component is
No my have a fully charge battery but dose not go blue or go nothing usefull at al
My board is slightly diffrent
You've come a long long way, good work.
Another great video! something to try when trying to remove the corrosion use a little distilled water with baking soda to a paste then have a go with a little scrub
Nicely done Vince, very enjoyable watch 👍
It looks very similar to the Proscenic 850T, I quite enjoy buying these from boot fairs and fixing them. Bit of a hobby! I have a problem with mine after 10 seconds saying fan error. Still trying to work this out but your video is good to teach me how to use my multimeter, which I also bought at a boot fair.
Have a few different items to complete a few repairs.
A screen for your broken TV.
A Annetta rechargeable toy.
Enjoying this video got to 15:45 , need to turn off, and go to work, will watch rest tonight it's 8:06 am at the moment.
This video is very timely for me because I'm waiting for a Eufy 11 in the mail that I bought off ebay last week which has a front bumper stuck error.
R147 appears to be a resistor used for current sense. It's common to have a small value precision resistor in series with a supply so that a voltage measurement across can be used to calculate the current through the supply (I = V/R). Those large package resistors which measure a short are typical because the small resistance does not draw very much power from the supply.
I actually bought a Eufy S11 last week because of your videos on this brand haha I’m very happy and impressed at how good it is for the price!
Mine broke after 6 months of use. One of the motors lost it's gears so now its making an awful lot of noise. It did awesome while it worked though. Nice quiet and fast robotic vacuum.
@@vBDKv yeah I’m a bit worried about long term usage from some comments I read but I’ll keep my fingers crossed cause for now it’s doing perfectly! Would be pretty bad of it didn’t at the very least work for 2 years at that price...
@@YoshMaster Luckily the customer service is pretty awesome. They'll likely send you a replacement (if within warranty of course) without you having to send your old unit back. I'm expecting my replacement next week. They initially wanted me to send the defective unit back, but it was just way too expensive for me to do so, so they just sent a new one. So nothing to worry about, they actually do care about their customers.
@@vBDKv cool good to know!
@@YoshMaster It just arrived. Now charging :)
well done on the fix vince a revisit would be great to see how its got on
I had one of these briefly. It did clean very well, but I needed a vacuum with home mapping so I returned it and got a Roborock S6. The bouncing all over the place would be fine in a smaller house, but would probably never get everywhere in a larger home. It does start to go home when the battery is low and slows down the brushes, but it has no idea where home is until it makes a pass in front of the charger so it could still go off in the wrong direction for a while. I suppose it has enough battery power to make it in most cases if it's not too far away.
Very interesting. Nice one Vince 👍
Great video!! It won't go back home because you picked it up and started it in the kitchen. It needs to start itself from the dock in order to find its way back. There are sensors in the vacuum itself and the dock, that's how it knows how to get back to it. It will definitely make its way throughout your home as long as the transitions from room to room aren't too high. I have several dogs and cats and the robot vacuum is a lifesaver. It runs every week day and gets all the fur. I really only have to do a clean myself once a month with the robot running daily.
Thanks for the info :-)
Great video Vince, glad you got it working in the end, watching the end was like watching a man with a new pet lol!
I was repairing my own 4 times beeping robovac while watching this video - luckily mine just needed a good clean. What a coincidence.
Fanastic job! Awesome pickup!!! To pull a current through that PSU (see my Neo Geo AES PSU repair - the most recent one). Using ohms law you can calculate a resistor size (ohm and wattage) and connect it up to draw whatever current you want to pull. That shiny-ness is a conformal coating! It's pronounced "Shot-key" - I always struggle with that too lol, I bloomin well call em Scotty diodes :o) That diode is going to be there for reverse polarity protection (probably). Uprating it as you suggest (assuming it was the lower rated part originally) will likely be fine. As you saw schottky diodes switch faster (that's useful when you want to protect parts of a circuit or get a quicker response to the signal going through it. And the lower forward voltage drop is simple - Take a 1N4001 diode for example, I think that has a 0.7v drop, so if you feed say 5v into its anode, on the cathode side you will measure 4.3v. (it drops by that amount). On schottky diodes its typically less, eg. 0.6v, 0.3v or even 0.15v (like the diodes I often use for CR-2032 mods where NiCads were originally used). It will make little difference to something like the area this is used on this vaccuum.
The next thing I do often after watching a Vince video is look for helpful comments like yours GadgetUK so thanks for the tips:) Oh and I subscribed to you.
@@ianofliverpool7701 Thanks, much appreciated =D
Brilliant as per usual Gadget. Nice one:-) I will check out your Neo Geo AES PSU repair, thank you :-)
Nice one Vince. Lucky the water damage only took out the diode. I would probably give it another clean with IPA if and when you replace the diode for the correct one. Really nice it wasn't too difficult especially when the seller obviously lied about the problem.
Thanks Scotsman :-)
Vince I just wanted to give this video a little comment it actually helped me fix one I bought that was not working (not the same model or even make).... I had to replace a bearing on the roller motor :) works great!
Brilliant, couldn’t believe it actually worked. Got a massive bargain there
Another great video as always 👍🏻❤️
Awesome video, love these!
Great job, Vince!
I've been watching your videos for a long time now Vince you've come a long way and you've improved over time which is great your content has always been good and it makes me come back for more soon i'll have no videos to watch on your channel. 😎😁
blimey... i remember watching you way back at less than 10k subs... well done mate
I have watched now 2 uploads of you Vince, I am enjoying them and I do know more about the robot vac cleaners now. Pittely my issue is not resolved (yet)
Bang and Olafson were the dogs danglies once upon a time, as a kid we had this huge B&O black and white BeoVision and it was all curvy edges and funky push buttons and had a very early IR remote. BeoCentre's were the best of the lot too, the one I had you had remote speakers in every room and a little thing clipped to your belt and as you walked into a room the music would fade from the other room and increase in the room you were going into and each speaker acting as a relay for your remote sending back to the main unit. I even had a speaker in the loo as nothing like a bit of Who in the loo hehe
congratulations on your new pet robot!
Great stuff Vince, nicely done. Oh and they are pronounced 'Shot key' diodes, they are basically just better performing diode than PN type.
Nice one Paul :-)
That was a good video hope u do a revisit I know a few people that just threw them away wished I would’ve gotten them
A major design flaw with the battery - it consists of 4s 18650, namely cheap CMICR18650F8M7, Candy Mountain - and a non-balancing BMS, the lack of balance is a key. Sooner or later, one of the cells would drop too low and it will never be properly charged. Once one of the cells reaches 4.17V, the BMS (20pin BM3451) disconnects the charging process/mosfet. The robot measures the voltage -- too low (as some of the cells can easily be below 3.2V) and starts 4x beeps relentlessly. The fix is removing the heat shrink wrap, measuring the cells directly and balancing them individually... till the next time. A possible fix would be adding a balancing circuit but there is not much clearance for a mod. OTOH, a great video - not so shabby soldering for a person w/o electronics background.
One more note: the 10.2V at 11:42, is not the charged voltage of the battery but the BMS not opening its discharging MOSFET. (due to to low voltage on some of the cells), 10.2 on a Li-Ion would be over discharge (~2.5V) in the dangerous, unstable chemistry zone.
"shot key" diode is used because its fast. it'll block reverse current fast enough to protect sensitive microprocessors and such down stream. the low forward voltage drop just means in the way you would expect current to flow, there isn't much drop across the device. Meaning its efficient/less heat.
Agreed with schotkey description....add....the forward voltage you measured was 0.2 volts hence low forward voltage. A standard diode will have a voltage drop somewhere between 0.6 to 0.4 volts.
This was a great Fix-it video! Thanks!
Thanks Michael :-)
Great fix and would like to get your feelings in a later video about this vac. I think it is kinda a crap robot vacuum. It has no suction so it is depending on the bottom brush to fling the dirt into the bin in the back. The price I see it online for new you can get other vacs with a camera so it knows where it is and have an actual vacuum pump to do more then just sweep up surface dirt. I have watched to many VacuumWars videos on youtube so I think I know more then I do :)
Great video Vince. By the way, the "R"400 (I don't think that's an R), is likely a PTC/PPTC resettable fuse, or polyfuse, surface mount obviously. They usually have the dimples on both ends. Different manufacturers have different markings, but I'd say you have a 400mA one on your hands.
i.e. something along these lines:
tny.im/kBg
People have said that it could be a current sense resistor, and while I've not come across one like that myself, I cannot discount the possibility.
Well Done Vince another great little fix. Dont think one of those would last in my house, the cats would have it for Breakfast lol. Keep up the good work. Mick 👍🍻
Haha, cheers Mick :-)
Love my Eufy. It's a cool little cleaner.
Great tutorial. Next time you can apply some flux and some low melting leaded solder to remove the diodes easily.
Very nice video! Good info.
awesome work
I'm glad that warranty in the most of countries in Europe is 2 years instead of just 1
Great work💪
Shot-Key - Faster Switching refers to how quickly the diode 'blocks' the flow of current when the voltage is reversed. Forward voltage drop is the voltage you would measure across the diode when it is conducting (when current is flowing). A lower voltage drop is useful in power supply and rectifier circuits. It's typically the voltage you see using Diode Test with your multimeter.
Soldering skills is not your best skill, I'm sorry to say that, but it's amazing that it works after this treatment! But anyway congratulations with it.
Well done indeed!
It's pronounced Shot Key, and the forward voltage (VF) is how much the voltage drops by when conducting, same as LEDs, so 0.6V VF means i you have a ~5V supply with a diode it will be ~4.4V at the other side of the diode. It is better to overrate the diode current than underrate it if it used as reverse polarity protection, there should (in good practice) be a fuse that will catch any overcurrent. Oh and the waterproof layer over the board is called conformal coating usually an acryllic protective layer to stop water ingress, or supposed to, not sure what happened to that board.
Thanks Wilksey :-)
I seriously love your "trying to fix" videos Vince 😁 If there is one thing i would give you a thumbs down on, that would have to be because of the huge amount of solder you are using on some of your components, it's like you are drowning them with solder 😉 Ofcourse they're not going anywhere, but still, try practising adding less solder! Keep it up 👊
The seller used another account to snipe you. They wanted to find your high bid to drive up price. Saves fees on buy it now listings. Ps love the vids, now hooked.
I did think that may be a possibility :-( Cheers mate :-)
Just watching the video, and that's exactly what happened. Crooked sellers raising the price of the things they are selling. It's an actual crime in real world auctions, I'm not sure how it would work on the internet.
There should be a simple way for Ebay to see who is connected through which IP address, but that would cut into their profits, wouldn't it.
@@FieroFats the IP does not work when using either a snipe web site, which ebay allow with the stupid cover up it's not the last bidder, but the highest that wins. True if the highest paid up.
Been going on for years, even a report topic for it but they always say no proof.
Could also have been someone who wasn't paying attention and missed the part about it being faulty and didn't want to admit it
@Vince Good review, thanks for sharing. May I suggest you should refrain from placing bids until the final last few seconds of the auction. You'll only pay the last bid amount and not your highest bid. You're less likely to be outbid and doesn't show your interest to others, nor prematurely raise the bid, which only prompts other users to increase their bid early too. This tactic worked on the vast majority of auctions I've bid on and won.
Vince you forgot to do your signiture yess yess and fist pump. For real you need to make that into a T-shirt with you fist pumping and a speech bubble that says Yes Yes!! lol I'd buy it for sure. I loved the video I am glad you got it working in the end.
I watch your video that was excellent and learned a lot
That varnish coating on the board is called a *conformal coating* and is designed to protect against external elements to an extent.
Thanks Tech :-)
Made up with this one Vince, love seeing you bringing life back to things that would otherwise be thrown away. You're an inspiration
It's a good idea to use a shottky diodes were there's supposed to be one. A normal diode will have a higher forward voltage drop, which will cause partial loss of power. In your case the (lost) diode acts as a reverse voltage protection.
R400 is a shunt resistor. It usual low resistance. It use to measure the current been consumed by the system. And the glossy thing that they put on the board is a conformal coating, it use to protect components and the board from corrosion.
brilliant vince !! well done :D
Hi great video and much appreciated. Just wondering if you could help me. I replaced one of the side brush motors. The motor works fine but like most of the reviews about the replacement mounting screws holes they didn’t match up I had to leave one of the three screws out. The machine works fine except now when it parks on the charger I don’t get the orange light. Something has happened after I reassembled the unit. Please do you have any ideas. Thank you again.
nice fix vince
Schottky diode is a fast switch diode. That you need a fast diode there is doubtful, so any diode with these specs and above is Ok . You are correct as to why they use components in manufacture, a penny less makes a difference, but that also has to conform to what is available and how you fit it.
I love this channel
Cracking job
Scottky diode got same behavior as normal diode, but scottky got less voltage drop so less heat is generated.
great video
The main diference between a schotky diode and a normal one is that a normal diode will drop the voltage more than a schotky one. If you put a diode on a 5V line the other side of the diode will have 4.4V because a normal diode usually drops 0.6v while a schotky diode will drop only 0.3v. Also they are good for high frequency switching. If you use your multimeter on diode test on the right way around it will show on the display the drop out voltage, something like 0.332v for schotky or 0.607v for normal diodes.
Thanks Thomas, great info and nicely explained:-)
Thank you for the great vid, the voltage drop on the diodes is a lost of voltage, if you put 12 volts one end, you will get 11.4 on a .6 lost, the schotky
Diode has less off a drop, 12 volts in 11.8 volts out 😏
Amazing fix! I've loved this channel for so long now, it's what got me into electronics in the first place. Thanks for your videos! 👍
Thanks Gumdrop:-)
Great job!
I have bought 3 robotic vacuums at thrift stores for between $9 and $17 each. Fixed every one of them!
The one I had with water damage, I ended up replacing the main board as I could not get the solder to stick to the corroded pads. Best part was that a replacement main board was only $30.
Maybe some helpful advice.
The brush should not have been spinning like that when you turned it on.
When checking power supply voltages, as long as it is within +/- 10% it is good.
Mine dont have wifi connectivity so I am working on modding them to make them work over wifi ;)
Thanks Granpa, I wasn't too sure about that spinning brush :-)
I'd be careful with that big diode you put in, so you don't rip the pads off. Anyway, I didn't expect to be so entertained by a vacuum cleaner repair video. Kudos.
This TH-camr is amazing
I love the seller said it could be the board, well fucking yea....they knew it was.
Your name should now be if vince can't fix it no one can 🙂 great fix
you can charge a 18650 safely with a power supply if you set it to nr of cells * 4.1V. its 4.2 max but to keep it a bit on the safe side. Additionally, you can limit the current to 0.5A
Shot-key is how it sounds. Basicly a Schottkey diode has a greater barrier, higher surge current capabilaty, faster switching, less forward voltage drop than a Germanuin diode. Think along it, like the difference of a standard pnp npn transitor and a FeT.
Thank you Scott :-)
@@Mymatevince Thank you to Scott Gibson for the pronunciation. I remember Germanium diode in college, and Schottky in the 1970's with discrete logic before semiconductors took over. How about 4 bit logic gates.
i have iroomba 980 for a few years its great i brought some brush bars and filters off amzon there 3rd party ones they work
reverse voltage usually means if something fails in the circuit, then it won't allow the voltage polarity to be reversed, and send a massive shock to the other components. or say the wrong polarity power supply is used, then it won't send power to anything before that point. and 1,000v means most power supplys on the market won't short circuit anything in the circuit from the diode to the battery seen as so close to the battery terminal. and the more voltage the diode is good for the less likely it is to allow the current to be reversed or blow the diode. at least that is my understanding on reverse current resistance.
but at the same time you don't want the reverse diode to be too high because of heat disapation.
Very nicely done video of troubleshooting this unit and taking us through all your steps!
I’ve got one of these I’m working on myself that was given to me and I’m stumped on something.
Im trying to figure out how to source the bigger rectifier that is just above the one that was missing on your board?
BTW the one that was missing on your board I can confirm it is the sk14. The only thing it says is “MCC LZ” and I saw when you were testing it the reading was .663 at 40:07. It read 0 for me so I removed it from the board and it reads 0 going either direction off the board as well. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Keep up the awesome repair videos!