Awesome work dude. Just a tip. After every event i like to do a compression, leak down and oil pressure test to be safe. Also any time you have issues with head gaskets or head issues your going to want to send it to the mechine shop to have em checked and machined. I worked with alot of mechine shops and we found that even brand new cylinder heads need machining as they aren't always good from the factory. This will save you so much money in the future. Also getting into the habit of checking the mechine shops work is beneficial as they to can make mistakes.
good shit man! i've been building my 2j since you very first started this build and im getting alot closer but its discouraging after a certain amount of time, money and not owning property. Seeing this gives me the inspiration back to push through!
I've been binging your videos the last couple of days. Great work on everything that you have done. I was curious about doing the same kind of setup to get a lower cost VVT-i turbo as those engines are unreasonably expensive it you opt for the GTE VVT-i engine, and luckily I found your videos. There's not a ton of info out there doing this type of conversion. I live in Thailand now, and I can pick up JZ engines pretty cheap. I'm currently running a 1JZ-GTE in my E36 and I will start another build soon as I have a 2JZ-GE non-VVT-i E34 I picked up for $1000 in pretty good condition. I can pickup a GE VVT-i engine for very cheap here and start the build soon. It's crazy how far you were able to take the stock ECU considering it's a GE engine with a GTE stock ECU, but I would highly suggest you get a good standalone. My E36 with a 1JZ single turbo had similar issues and melted pistons 5 & 6 at a little over 450hp with 20psi of boost. Those cylinders leaned out due to the ECU. I ended up going with a Haltech Elite 2500 for $1865.00 USD. This ECU is amazing value for what you can do with it. It can control VVT-i and has tons of inputs and outputs, safety features, data logs, easy connectivity with a usb cable and a laptop. It should also keep the rebuilt engine going strong for the foreseeable future. Thanks for putting these videos up and keeping them long format to highlight common issues and things to look out for. This will be invaluable information when I go to do my GE-T VVTi build. Best of luck with the car and competitions.
the ecu is hitting boost cut. Please stop wasting your time breaking stuff and fixing it to break again. Get a standalone ecu unless you are running factory components especially turbo unless you are going to do the math on cfm and whatnot to size it correctly. Just a fellow jz guy trying to save you headaches
@@Teysik not the case. GTE vvti has maf and map sensor. GTE non vvti uses map only no maf. Unless you have some home rigged GTE ecu on a vvti engine, I don't see your maf sensor anywhere. that'll def piss it off. Secondarily maybe unrelated...The TT ecu mod has its gremlins also even if you are the dude at supraworld who setup the method to work. Unplugging VVTi on setups is also a bandaid that has its own gremlins. Basically what i'm saying is you are using something that wasn't designed to work how you have it setup. It cuts based of a factor of voltage between the maf/map/tps/iat/wheel speed input to do boost cut/speed cut/fuel cut. The speed cut is the easiest thing to not have work due to no wheel speed sensor input. The boost/fuel cut is present no matter what unless you wire in a Fuel Cut/Boost Cut Defender. The wiring diagram that explains how that system works is in the oem Toyota FSM. You can do anything you want with fuel pump, FPR, injectors, fuel damper, etc it doesn't matter. The fuel cut and boost cut will always have intermittent issues on a stock ecu setup without a FCD. That's why you get a standalone ecu or you will continue to struggle with issues. (which is why you are doing an LS comp car instead of a JZ one).
@ I do have a MAF sensor, running a vvti GTE ecu and all the sensors that go along with it other than Map and pedal position. It gave me no major issues for the last couple years, I was running it around 21psi the last year. For sure the stock ecu isn’t ideal for what I’m doing. It always run extremely rich. But I suspect it hits a sort of “boost cut” if the MAF reading is way higher than what it expects to see at a given RPM, which is now happening due to the smaller turbo pushing more air sooner in the RPM range. The reason for wanting an LS comp car is more due to turbo vs NA, and simplicity. The LS is a lot easier to drive. I still love the JZ and will continue to make it better. When I need more power than what an N.A. LS can provide, that’s where the JZ will come in
Awesome work dude. Just a tip. After every event i like to do a compression, leak down and oil pressure test to be safe. Also any time you have issues with head gaskets or head issues your going to want to send it to the mechine shop to have em checked and machined. I worked with alot of mechine shops and we found that even brand new cylinder heads need machining as they aren't always good from the factory. This will save you so much money in the future. Also getting into the habit of checking the mechine shops work is beneficial as they to can make mistakes.
@@monstersquashracing good advice for sure
@ cant wait to see you back at nd next year.
@ got a few upgrades to do over the winter and then I’m coming for that FD license
@ hell ya dude!!!!
good shit man! i've been building my 2j since you very first started this build and im getting alot closer but its discouraging after a certain amount of time, money and not owning property.
Seeing this gives me the inspiration back to push through!
@@wackyk1dtrammel510 I feel ya, just keep moving forward a little at a time and you’ll get there!
So much to do! Lookin good
nice video keep them coming love from the uk
@@kevinwhite1077 thanks!
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉congratulations!
@@guoranbullshi thanks haha
ayeeeee nice
He’ll yeah . I am running k1 forged rods and factory new gte pistons
@@timelesssteelgarage how much were those pistons?
@ I think I paid 350 for them can’t remember.
@@timelesssteelgarage that’s a good deal for sure
@ I bought them off a guy who changed his mind. They were new in the box with new pins and everything
He decided to go forged. It was a good deal .
300 Busch lates were killed in the making of this video .
I've been binging your videos the last couple of days. Great work on everything that you have done. I was curious about doing the same kind of setup to get a lower cost VVT-i turbo as those engines are unreasonably expensive it you opt for the GTE VVT-i engine, and luckily I found your videos. There's not a ton of info out there doing this type of conversion.
I live in Thailand now, and I can pick up JZ engines pretty cheap. I'm currently running a 1JZ-GTE in my E36 and I will start another build soon as I have a 2JZ-GE non-VVT-i E34 I picked up for $1000 in pretty good condition. I can pickup a GE VVT-i engine for very cheap here and start the build soon.
It's crazy how far you were able to take the stock ECU considering it's a GE engine with a GTE stock ECU, but I would highly suggest you get a good standalone. My E36 with a 1JZ single turbo had similar issues and melted pistons 5 & 6 at a little over 450hp with 20psi of boost. Those cylinders leaned out due to the ECU. I ended up going with a Haltech Elite 2500 for $1865.00 USD. This ECU is amazing value for what you can do with it. It can control VVT-i and has tons of inputs and outputs, safety features, data logs, easy connectivity with a usb cable and a laptop. It should also keep the rebuilt engine going strong for the foreseeable future.
Thanks for putting these videos up and keeping them long format to highlight common issues and things to look out for. This will be invaluable information when I go to do my GE-T VVTi build. Best of luck with the car and competitions.
@@JesseS420 I’m hoping to put it on a standalone this winter
the ecu is hitting boost cut. Please stop wasting your time breaking stuff and fixing it to break again. Get a standalone ecu unless you are running factory components especially turbo unless you are going to do the math on cfm and whatnot to size it correctly. Just a fellow jz guy trying to save you headaches
@@jessethomas7673 plan on going standalone next year. But the vvti ecu shouldn’t be able to boost cut without the map sensor as far as I know
@@Teysik not the case. GTE vvti has maf and map sensor. GTE non vvti uses map only no maf. Unless you have some home rigged GTE ecu on a vvti engine, I don't see your maf sensor anywhere. that'll def piss it off. Secondarily maybe unrelated...The TT ecu mod has its gremlins also even if you are the dude at supraworld who setup the method to work. Unplugging VVTi on setups is also a bandaid that has its own gremlins. Basically what i'm saying is you are using something that wasn't designed to work how you have it setup.
It cuts based of a factor of voltage between the maf/map/tps/iat/wheel speed input to do boost cut/speed cut/fuel cut. The speed cut is the easiest thing to not have work due to no wheel speed sensor input.
The boost/fuel cut is present no matter what unless you wire in a Fuel Cut/Boost Cut Defender. The wiring diagram that explains how that system works is in the oem Toyota FSM. You can do anything you want with fuel pump, FPR, injectors, fuel damper, etc it doesn't matter.
The fuel cut and boost cut will always have intermittent issues on a stock ecu setup without a FCD. That's why you get a standalone ecu or you will continue to struggle with issues. (which is why you are doing an LS comp car instead of a JZ one).
@ I do have a MAF sensor, running a vvti GTE ecu and all the sensors that go along with it other than Map and pedal position. It gave me no major issues for the last couple years, I was running it around 21psi the last year. For sure the stock ecu isn’t ideal for what I’m doing. It always run extremely rich. But I suspect it hits a sort of “boost cut” if the MAF reading is way higher than what it expects to see at a given RPM, which is now happening due to the smaller turbo pushing more air sooner in the RPM range.
The reason for wanting an LS comp car is more due to turbo vs NA, and simplicity. The LS is a lot easier to drive. I still love the JZ and will continue to make it better. When I need more power than what an N.A. LS can provide, that’s where the JZ will come in