Thankyou so much for recording this, I've got an SR2 genset that's been standing for probably 10+ years now, and the manky old fuel's practically the same viscosity as engine oil at this point! Going to need a lot of flushing and bleeding 😅
Great video, most informative. We have just been gifted a Lister SR1C/ Hoffberg alternator power plant or our farm , she has been standing for some time and will need some work to get her going again. I am really battling to find a service manual for this machine, could you point me in the right direction. Im really excited to get this beast up and running
The SR1C is a standard SR Series engine, The workshop manual is easily located when doing a google search for Lister SR workshop manual, Or if you would like I can Email you a copy of the workshop manual I have in PDF format. Cheers TVDC
@ITAMED1A these pipes are the oil feed pipes that supply the rocker arm bushes, valve springs and valve guides with lubrication oil, this then naturally via gravity returns to the engine sump. TVDC
Afternoon Steve. Your welcome, thanks for your comment. In answer to your question, yes, I will be doing a video on overhauling both the Lister LH150 hydraulic gearbox, and, I'll also be doing a video covering the LM100 mechanical gearbox, if I can find one, I will also do a video on the Lister SL3 gearbox which is the older version of the LM100. Stay tuned for both of the videos as I'll be producing them in the next couple of months. Cheers LDW
Thank you, that's tomorrow's job sorted! A minor cavil: it would be good to see a bit less of undoing and doing up of bolts and more of actually doing the bleeding on the fuel pumps and the injectors. Nonetheless, I'm much better informed now.
Thanks for your Comment Mick, hope this video made it a less scary task of bleeding these engines, Agreed there is alot of undoing and redoing nuts n bolts ect. TVDC
@@VintageDieselCenter No fuel reaches the injectors: I think because the rack is stuck. I think it's stuck mechanically rather than by gunk in the pumps. I'll find an exploded diagram and work it out from there. It's a generator so the speed of the motor would be constant (there's no accelerator as such).
Hi @mickwilcox1216 If your getting no fuel to the injections check the position of the engine stop control, if your generator is a start o matic unit the stop solenoid can get stuck in the shutdown position and cause an issue as it forces the fuel rack to the stop position, I'd first check and disconnect the linkage if fitted, then, put a large screwdriver behind the rack towards the front of the engine connecting to the generator unit and see if the rack moves at all, if it doesn't move then you most likely have a seized fuel pump. TVDC
If some water got in the fuel system, what would the procedure be to get the water out please?. I was thinking of pumping clean fuel through the furthest bleed hole and letting the fuel run out of the fuel return maybe?
@@VintageDieselCenter Thanks for replying. Do you know if the ST2 engine also has the hidden bleed screw behind the plate?. Also my problem started after i run out of fuel and had no choice but to use waste engine oil mixed with diesel. I noticed a few missfires when running, it also got harder to start in the morning, the revs would only increase very slowly and it would shudder a bit. Then the other morning it almost started but stalled and now it just fires a few times and just seems starved of fuel. Would you think the fuel filter clogged would cause this problem? Thank you kindly. One more thing!, i tried putting a little diesel into the air intake, was it okay to do that?
@ATI331 If you have run old engine oil through the engine you have most likely damaged the injector nozzles. You may also have a blocked fuel filter. The ST and SR engines are basically the same but the ST had bigger cylinder barrels. Purge the system with FRESH CLEAN diesel and change your filters, bleed up as normal and it should run. If not you have probably got a bad injector. Cheers LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter Thanks again. I seen quite a few videos of people running 50/50 engine oil and diesel with no issues. What is the best way to purge?, use a hand pump on one of the inlet pipes? or just let the fresh clean diesel run through?
Hi, i have a ST2 that has a similar looking fuel shutoff thing as that, but i cant seem to get the big lever on the outside (the one you are moving at around the 4:25 mark in the video) to move. so to kill it, i have to hit the compression release lever. The plate behind it looks adjustable, so im not sure if its not of adjustment or what, and i cant find anything about how to adjust that style of fuel shutoff. Any tips would be greatly apricated!
Evening Andrew. Open up your fuel pump housing and check if your fuel pump rack is able to move at all, is this a variable speed engine or is this a fixed speed engine.? Very important detail as each is setup differently for the stop control. If you can move the fuel rack with your finger then the stop lever is possibly jamed as its a steel shaft passing through an alloy housing with a rubber O ring seal behind the stop plate, this is adjustable for fixed speed and variable speed engines hence knowing this detail would help. Inside this shaft is secured with a 7/16 nut and undoing this will alow the shaft to be withdrawn but be very careful as there will be a spring connected too this shaft linkage, clean the shaft and the hole, renew the seal O ring, refit the same way as removing and ensure everything is lined up and moves freely and all the control springs are replaced correctly. Hopefully that helps you some what, feel free to ask if you get stuck. Cheera Ben LDW
yes, the fuel rack moves fine with your finger, and it holds rpm without trying to run away or anything, so i dont think its a stuck rack. it is a single speed generator engine out of an old light tower. I did take the bolt out directly above the shutoff lever, and without that, the whole plate rotates, and it does pull the rack closed. so i think its just the lever is somehow stuck in that plate. Thanks again! @@VintageDieselCenter
Open up the fuel pump cover and check if the fuel control rack on the two injection pumps move fully from left to right, if it doesn't move then both pumps will need removing and be reconditioned by a professional injection pump engineer, I would recommend using Chris at CJ diesel injection specialists based in Shepperton UK for all things Lister injection equipment related enquiries.
Hi, Tks for the reply. I found out that there is an idle spring fitting on my engine fuel pump #2. which is working against the governor forces, which is why the governor cannot control. I your video #2 fuel pump does not have that idle spring. Maybe that the problem is. I need some information about it, drawing or something, before dive into it. I am from India.
If the gaskets are not perished or damaged then I don't particularly see a need too change them on my own engines, However if this was a client's engine then yes I would change them as a matter of caution incase they fail down the road. Cheers LDW
@@thefloatingapothecaryroman16 Good morning. No they are not, The ST rocker cover gaskets are a different shape too the SR rocker cover gaskets. Cheers LDW
Thanks, Ben! I got an sr3 (1973) a year or so ago but when looking online for info, I wasn't able to find much related to the Sr line. Mine is currently coupled to a 15kva 3 phase 110 / 208 v generator. Thinking of swapping the head out to a more modern (brushless) single phase 110 / 220 v unit to run my home in case of a mains outage. Do you find the governors on these Sr engines are good at maintaining 1800 rpm under varying loads? Thanks again and hope all is well!
Yes, but, be very careful when setting the governors on the S series engines, the SR were set to 1600rpm to alow for various loading, I have had 8kw on a 7kw head and the engine know the load was there, but, the revs didn't drop below 1500rpm on full load, the governors are very responsive to "sudden" or "Start up" loads and recover in a matter of seconds. If you prefer il do a video on how to set a governor on the SR and how to adjust for the correct speed. Remember, the RPM speed of the engine also equates too the Hrz of the generator head, while the AVR (auto voltage regulator) will compensate for the voltage difference it will not compensate for the hrz. An engine running at 1500rpm will produce 50hz and an engine running at 1600rpm will produce 60hz. Hope that helps. Cheers LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter it does!! The tag on mine says 1800 rpm and I believe for 60 hz (Canadian) power they do run at 1800 rpm. I'll have to go back through my pictures but I don't believe my sr3 has the self bleeding option you showed on this one. I've changed the oil (10w 40) and screw on (automotive style) oil filter. I've confirmed the rack isn't stuck. Any other suggestions you may have? I believe this to be a low hour, original engine and am looking forward to getting it in service again 😀 Thank you again!
@@jeffanthony5434 just as a heads up. 10w40 is too thin for an SR engine. I would recommend using SAE20 in cold climates or in very hot climates SAE30.
Thankyou so much for recording this, I've got an SR2 genset that's been standing for probably 10+ years now, and the manky old fuel's practically the same viscosity as engine oil at this point! Going to need a lot of flushing and bleeding 😅
Great video, most informative. We have just been gifted a Lister SR1C/ Hoffberg alternator power plant or our farm , she has been standing for some time and will need some work to get her going again. I am really battling to find a service manual for this machine, could you point me in the right direction. Im really excited to get this beast up and running
The SR1C is a standard SR Series engine, The workshop manual is easily located when doing a google search for Lister SR workshop manual, Or if you would like I can Email you a copy of the workshop manual I have in PDF format.
Cheers
TVDC
Very good to know more about the engineering job involved
@4:15 in this video can you please tell me what the pipes all connecting to the T-piece are on the left hand side?
@ITAMED1A these pipes are the oil feed pipes that supply the rocker arm bushes, valve springs and valve guides with lubrication oil, this then naturally via gravity returns to the engine sump.
TVDC
wonderful videos - much appreciated. I have an STW3 - with an LH100 gearbox . Will you do any videos about these?
Afternoon Steve.
Your welcome, thanks for your comment.
In answer to your question, yes, I will be doing a video on overhauling both the Lister LH150 hydraulic gearbox, and, I'll also be doing a video covering the LM100 mechanical gearbox, if I can find one, I will also do a video on the Lister SL3 gearbox which is the older version of the LM100.
Stay tuned for both of the videos as I'll be producing them in the next couple of months.
Cheers
LDW
Thank you, that's tomorrow's job sorted! A minor cavil: it would be good to see a bit less of undoing and doing up of bolts and more of actually doing the bleeding on the fuel pumps and the injectors. Nonetheless, I'm much better informed now.
Thanks for your Comment Mick, hope this video made it a less scary task of bleeding these engines, Agreed there is alot of undoing and redoing nuts n bolts ect.
TVDC
@@VintageDieselCenter No fuel reaches the injectors: I think because the rack is stuck. I think it's stuck mechanically rather than by gunk in the pumps. I'll find an exploded diagram and work it out from there. It's a generator so the speed of the motor would be constant (there's no accelerator as such).
Hi @mickwilcox1216
If your getting no fuel to the injections check the position of the engine stop control, if your generator is a start o matic unit the stop solenoid can get stuck in the shutdown position and cause an issue as it forces the fuel rack to the stop position, I'd first check and disconnect the linkage if fitted, then, put a large screwdriver behind the rack towards the front of the engine connecting to the generator unit and see if the rack moves at all, if it doesn't move then you most likely have a seized fuel pump.
TVDC
@@VintageDieselCenter Many thanks - I'll go out and brave the weather and have a look! The rack's stuck to the right looking at the fuel pumps.
@mickwilcox1216 If it's stuck to the right then it's in the shutdown position, try levering it too the left a tiny bit and it should free up.
TVDC
If some water got in the fuel system, what would the procedure be to get the water out please?. I was thinking of pumping clean fuel through the furthest bleed hole and letting the fuel run out of the fuel return maybe?
It would be the same procedure as a bleed up would, purge the water from the system and rebleed as normal.
Cheers
LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter Thanks for replying. Do you know if the ST2 engine also has the hidden bleed screw behind the plate?.
Also my problem started after i run out of fuel and had no choice but to use waste engine oil mixed with diesel. I noticed a few missfires when running, it also got harder to start in the morning, the revs would only increase very slowly and it would shudder a bit. Then the other morning it almost started but stalled and now it just fires a few times and just seems starved of fuel. Would you think the fuel filter clogged would cause this problem? Thank you kindly.
One more thing!, i tried putting a little diesel into the air intake, was it okay to do that?
@ATI331 If you have run old engine oil through the engine you have most likely damaged the injector nozzles.
You may also have a blocked fuel filter.
The ST and SR engines are basically the same but the ST had bigger cylinder barrels.
Purge the system with FRESH CLEAN diesel and change your filters, bleed up as normal and it should run. If not you have probably got a bad injector.
Cheers
LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter Thanks again. I seen quite a few videos of people running 50/50 engine oil and diesel with no issues.
What is the best way to purge?, use a hand pump on one of the inlet pipes? or just let the fresh clean diesel run through?
@@VintageDieselCenter When you say 'Filters' is there more than one fuel filter?
How do you set the spring tension inside the injector
Hi, i have a ST2 that has a similar looking fuel shutoff thing as that, but i cant seem to get the big lever on the outside (the one you are moving at around the 4:25 mark in the video) to move. so to kill it, i have to hit the compression release lever.
The plate behind it looks adjustable, so im not sure if its not of adjustment or what, and i cant find anything about how to adjust that style of fuel shutoff. Any tips would be greatly apricated!
Evening Andrew.
Open up your fuel pump housing and check if your fuel pump rack is able to move at all, is this a variable speed engine or is this a fixed speed engine.?
Very important detail as each is setup differently for the stop control.
If you can move the fuel rack with your finger then the stop lever is possibly jamed as its a steel shaft passing through an alloy housing with a rubber O ring seal behind the stop plate, this is adjustable for fixed speed and variable speed engines hence knowing this detail would help.
Inside this shaft is secured with a 7/16 nut and undoing this will alow the shaft to be withdrawn but be very careful as there will be a spring connected too this shaft linkage, clean the shaft and the hole, renew the seal O ring, refit the same way as removing and ensure everything is lined up and moves freely and all the control springs are replaced correctly.
Hopefully that helps you some what, feel free to ask if you get stuck.
Cheera
Ben
LDW
yes, the fuel rack moves fine with your finger, and it holds rpm without trying to run away or anything, so i dont think its a stuck rack.
it is a single speed generator engine out of an old light tower. I did take the bolt out directly above the shutoff lever, and without that, the whole plate rotates, and it does pull the rack closed. so i think its just the lever is somehow stuck in that plate. Thanks again! @@VintageDieselCenter
If fuel leaks into the sump,you can also crank case explosion as well oil level rising.
hello. i have a question about the diesel injector on a SR model. What is the torque specification on it?
Best regards.
Haavard.G.
Good morning Haavard.
The Lister SR injector holding clamp nuts are 15lb.
The injector top nut is 50lb.
Regards
LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter Thank you very much LDW. Have a grate day.
Best regards.
Haavard.G.
Does that Sr not have a lift pump on the crankcase door?
@@amk2vr6 Some listers were gravity feed fuel systems and some were lift pump feed systems
Hi, I am O/h SR2. When starting it, it rev full rpm. What could be the problem?
Open up the fuel pump cover and check if the fuel control rack on the two injection pumps move fully from left to right, if it doesn't move then both pumps will need removing and be reconditioned by a professional injection pump engineer, I would recommend using Chris at CJ diesel injection specialists based in Shepperton UK for all things Lister injection equipment related enquiries.
Hi, Tks for the reply.
I found out that there is an idle spring fitting on my engine fuel pump #2. which is working against the governor forces, which is why the governor cannot control.
I your video #2 fuel pump does not have that idle spring. Maybe that the problem is.
I need some information about it, drawing or something, before dive into it.
I am from India.
Thanks, do you not need to change gaskets having removed covers?
If the gaskets are not perished or damaged then I don't particularly see a need too change them on my own engines, However if this was a client's engine then yes I would change them as a matter of caution incase they fail down the road.
Cheers
LDW
Thanks. Could you tell me if SR2 and ST2 rocker cover gaskets are the same please
@@thefloatingapothecaryroman16 Good morning.
No they are not, The ST rocker cover gaskets are a different shape too the SR rocker cover gaskets.
Cheers
LDW
نفسي اشوف وين كان يصنع هالمحركات
Thanks, Ben! I got an sr3 (1973) a year or so ago but when looking online for info, I wasn't able to find much related to the Sr line. Mine is currently coupled to a 15kva 3 phase 110 / 208 v generator. Thinking of swapping the head out to a more modern (brushless) single phase 110 / 220 v unit to run my home in case of a mains outage.
Do you find the governors on these Sr engines are good at maintaining 1800 rpm under varying loads?
Thanks again and hope all is well!
Yes, but, be very careful when setting the governors on the S series engines, the SR were set to 1600rpm to alow for various loading, I have had 8kw on a 7kw head and the engine know the load was there, but, the revs didn't drop below 1500rpm on full load, the governors are very responsive to "sudden" or "Start up" loads and recover in a matter of seconds.
If you prefer il do a video on how to set a governor on the SR and how to adjust for the correct speed.
Remember, the RPM speed of the engine also equates too the Hrz of the generator head, while the AVR (auto voltage regulator) will compensate for the voltage difference it will not compensate for the hrz.
An engine running at 1500rpm will produce 50hz and an engine running at 1600rpm will produce 60hz.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter it does!! The tag on mine says 1800 rpm and I believe for 60 hz (Canadian) power they do run at 1800 rpm. I'll have to go back through my pictures but I don't believe my sr3 has the self bleeding option you showed on this one. I've changed the oil (10w 40) and screw on (automotive style) oil filter. I've confirmed the rack isn't stuck. Any other suggestions you may have? I believe this to be a low hour, original engine and am looking forward to getting it in service again 😀
Thank you again!
@@jeffanthony5434 just as a heads up.
10w40 is too thin for an SR engine.
I would recommend using SAE20 in cold climates or in very hot climates SAE30.
@@VintageDieselCenter thank you! Just straight sae 20 or 30?
@@jeffanthony5434 correct, yes, SAE20 in cold weather, SAE30 hot weather
good job hes not in a hurry