Helpful video, thanks. I’m about to fit a new alternator to my MPI this week so watching that has made it all very clear. My new one is a Powerlite Alternator. I’ve read good things about Powerlite. Made in the UK and fairly long warranty. Time will tell I guess. The car is fairly new to me and having recently adjusted the valve clearances the engine became so quiet it revealed a slight noise from the existing alternator which I couldn’t hear before. It works, but I’ll keep it as a spare. A new one is the only way. 😊
Years ago I fitted the alternator from an abandoned Austin 1300 (I think). It had all the same mounting points but it was much longer. Anyway, once fitted the voltage was obviously higher because the panel lamps and headlight were noticeably brighter. It worked great for years, it was a fit and forget job.
Greetings Keith! Another great video. I appreciate the array of tips you share especially as they are based on experience of removing, replacing and repairing. also having recently found and bought an Amaranth Sport Pack Mini, the Piooow tips (immobilizer tip) are priceless.
Everyday is a school day thanks Keith I’ve learned a bit today…. still don’t understand electrics though!!! Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
Hi Keith. I know it’s not to the topic but about ready to strip and paint my subframes. What’s your thoughts on primers and paints? Por15 and hammerite both having mixed reviews. I’m not a fan of powder coat if I’m honest. Always flakes on me. Appreciate your thoughts.
Keith, question for you: PIII OOW, the Sportpack arches, are they a hard material or more rubberized? In searching forums etc. people say to stay away from the rubber arches but I have also read that the original are rubber, is this the case or are they hard. Asking as I am looking to buy a set and ship to Canada. Thanks mate.
Another informative video, thanks. I replaced all my gauges, used LEDs and had the issue you mentioned. If I rev'd the engine, the light would go out but I didn't like that. I ended up putting an incandescent bulb behind the gauges (not visible) to excite the system and left the LED in the cluster for me to see. Sort of a hack but works well. Also, was wondering about your oil pressure gauge. Is it working? Looked like it was reading on the low end.
You wont be the first to ask about the oil gauge! It's an oil temperature gauge, not oil pressure so takes a good 15 mins before it reads anything. We done the same incandescent bulb trick on Bolt the track car
5:55 In reality Keith, that alternator would never give out 95a. What are the chances of you using all the lights, blowers, heated rear window etc with a good flat battery? That sized battery when flat and no electrical loads on would only take 50/60a at the most so i would have no problem fitting that alternator. Shame on you for not fitting a new fanny belt you cheap skate lol.
Yeah, good point. Agreed, a regular flooded lead acid battery of that size would probably only pull 50-60a. You could probably get close if you then turned on all the other electrics, but that's a perfect storm scenario!
Helpful video, thanks. I’m about to fit a new alternator to my MPI this week so watching that has made it all very clear. My new one is a Powerlite Alternator. I’ve read good things about Powerlite. Made in the UK and fairly long warranty. Time will tell I guess. The car is fairly new to me and having recently adjusted the valve clearances the engine became so quiet it revealed a slight noise from the existing alternator which I couldn’t hear before. It works, but I’ll keep it as a spare. A new one is the only way. 😊
Thanks
Thanks Neil, much appreciated, very kind of you.
Hi Keith. Lovely to talk to you at Worthing and great to see your cars up close. So thanks to your Dad. 👍
Hi Mike, was great to see you too and have a chat. Lovely day for it. I do have a bit of sunburn though LOL
@@classicminiworkshop sunburn..me too on the head. Left the hat in the car. 🙄
Years ago I fitted the alternator from an abandoned Austin 1300 (I think). It had all the same mounting points but it was much longer. Anyway, once fitted the voltage was obviously higher because the panel lamps and headlight were noticeably brighter. It worked great for years, it was a fit and forget job.
Always something to be fixed! Good you got it sorted though
All good info supplied there Kieth, anyone would think you were a mechanic but not a fitter lol
Learn something new every time ...thanks .
Greetings Keith! Another great video. I appreciate the array of tips you share especially as they are based on experience of removing, replacing and repairing. also having recently found and bought an Amaranth Sport Pack Mini, the Piooow tips (immobilizer tip) are priceless.
Very welcome
Hiya Keith-long time since I changed an alternator(sure I overtightened the belt)but good to watch. Advertised Metro on CCFS-keep well.
Good luck mate, hope it goes well
Good vid that good information content thanks Keith 👍
Everyday is a school day thanks Keith I’ve learned a bit today…. still don’t understand electrics though!!!
Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
Hey Keith. I was able to buy everithing for the alternator here. It coold not be problem. 👍
Hi Keith. I know it’s not to the topic but about ready to strip and paint my subframes. What’s your thoughts on primers and paints? Por15 and hammerite both having mixed reviews. I’m not a fan of powder coat if I’m honest. Always flakes on me. Appreciate your thoughts.
I've only really used powder coat or Hammerite. I've heard Por15 is very hard wearing but also expensive, I've never tried it though.
Keith, question for you: PIII OOW, the Sportpack arches, are they a hard material or more rubberized? In searching forums etc. people say to stay away from the rubber arches but I have also read that the original are rubber, is this the case or are they hard. Asking as I am looking to buy a set and ship to Canada. Thanks mate.
They are the original arches and they are the hard plastic type
Another informative video, thanks. I replaced all my gauges, used LEDs and had the issue you mentioned. If I rev'd the engine, the light would go out but I didn't like that. I ended up putting an incandescent bulb behind the gauges (not visible) to excite the system and left the LED in the cluster for me to see. Sort of a hack but works well.
Also, was wondering about your oil pressure gauge. Is it working? Looked like it was reading on the low end.
You wont be the first to ask about the oil gauge! It's an oil temperature gauge, not oil pressure so takes a good 15 mins before it reads anything. We done the same incandescent bulb trick on Bolt the track car
Nothing like my alternator but nonetheless, good stuff.
15:08 or you could just get a new key fob or two by using my Testbook2!!!
I might need to borrow that one day :)
😎👍
1:00 Give it a whack with the hammer.....................................all will be good lol
Oh yes, it got a few taps with the knocking stick first LOL
@@classicminiworkshop Is that how Sprout got a cracked casing lol............been there done that ha ha
Put the old one back in the box and send it back saying it was not working.................................GOD did i say that out load lol lol lol
Naughty boy LOL
@@classicminiworkshop Anything to save a penny hey lol
5:55 In reality Keith, that alternator would never give out 95a. What are the chances of you using all the lights, blowers, heated rear window etc with a good flat battery? That sized battery when flat and no electrical loads on would only take 50/60a at the most so i would have no problem fitting that alternator. Shame on you for not fitting a new fanny belt you cheap skate lol.
Yeah, good point. Agreed, a regular flooded lead acid battery of that size would probably only pull 50-60a. You could probably get close if you then turned on all the other electrics, but that's a perfect storm scenario!
@@classicminiworkshop Or a Tornado lol
@@paulrobinson3528 🤣🤣