Hi John, Many thanks for a really informative and interesting video. With the time it took to explain this: It is like trying to explain something on a text, it takes ten times as long as when you would actually show someone. And really that goes for the working of the machine as well as an explanation of the job you are doing. I thank you very much indeed and am jealous as hell! I live in London England UK and have wanted to build a specific Machine, and now as an invalid it is not easy, whereas if I had both your machine I could do it but as I can’t get anything at all like them I will have to buy a machine damn!
John, this is an amazing machine to start a bussiness. I deal with bigger machines with bar pullers and barfeeders and they are great, but not mine. Thank you for these videos.
I have thought about lanyard beads, but they're just getting so common that they bore me a little bit. But you're right, it would make for a sweet video. I've got some other ideas too, so stay tuned ;-).
@ 14:15 I suggest that you do a planar operation (In X) with the same tool, instead of a Z-axis cut. (That tool is made to go both ways) That will save you a lot of time. Also, reduce the plunge clearance for the tools. :)
That's some great turning footage! Regarding the bar puller - for now, could you program pauses into the code, so the puller loads the stock at the end of the program? It wouldn't make it an autonomous machine but you wouldn't need to push the rod manually.
That's an interesting lathe, I guess most people use it for second operations. I was always told that machining titanium needed cooling because it tended to work harden very quickly, although I was told that a long time ago now so perhaps things have moved on since then. You do have a lot of wasted material there although the lathe makes a decent job of turning the screw.
Great stuff, that machine seems to excel at what you are using it for. Maybe a two stage bar puller mounted on a linear slide could save you some space for the gang tooling, one stage advances between existing tools and the other grabs/releases the stock. Something like a pair of opposed pincer points for gripping.
My first 15L comment was that it was screaming for an automated collet closer. While waiting for that, I'd still get the bar puller and get that working with the manually operated collet closer. LinuxCNC (PathPilot) for the threading win! Woot! Very nice looking parts and the titanium machining looks great. I'm currently fussing a bit with a .247" OD titanium pin that has too much sticky outy. Part deflection results in tolerance problems as sometimes the carbide insert cuts, and other times it skips over the surface and deflects the part. Gonna need to turn that with a tailstock.
Nice video as usual. I wonder if the cold start offset is "predictable". Like, could the machine compensate for the warmup period using "hidden offsets" based on coolant temp and how long/hard the machine's been running.
No it's not predictable, not as far as I've seen. Basically when power is applied or removed from the steppers I think they kick to the next rotation point where the magnets attract the rotor (I'm literally making this up because I know the theory but not the right words haha). And who knows which way the stepper will kick when powered on.
I imagine you could design a jig or chuck plate in CAD with 20+ threaded holes and then reuse this file to run the Torx cuts once the plate is made. From there, you set the screws in the plate and run the Torx cutting job with an end mill sized for the lobes of the T9 torx profile. Might consider using loktite since the thread is so short, but gutentight should work just fine for that small a cut.
I swear, the only thing you don't make is the metal, like Ti, and steals. I think you should forge your own Damscus!! Jeff's blend, with little norsemen in the design!!!
Ha! Yeah we do try to at least have the ability/knowledge to make everything in house. To be honest I have very little interest in forging, I think it's awesome, but not really for me. I'm happy to support the shops that love doing it though ;-).
Highly recommend the Royal style partoff/bar pull, if you can make it work in your gang setup. Glad you were able to get them going on there, I think the relief would've done it for me too. Ah well, now i'm 200 miles from my lathe. Process looks ridiculously familiar, even down to undercutting the underside. I was under a minute total cycle time from part to part, just using the identical V tool to do 100% of the outside turning.. Any intentions to start using HSMWorks for programming your turning?
I was just going to use what Brad uses, the little durham bar pullers, but I haven't ordered anything yet. I did use HSMworks to code a lot of that, I guess for both turning tools, for the threading I used Tormach's built in wizards and the parting I coded by hand. I could probably shave a minute off if I really pushed it. Sure is fun though!
The royal could potentially save a spot, but its really dependent on if it works in your setup. Most likely, it'd force you to switch to a cutoff tool mounted axially, which would kill even more space. If thats the case, then the ones Brad uses are perfectly fine too.
yes that tool cut s1000 with that jog speed. perfect. and that material. it is same tolerance as you make bunch of part and measure differenses. and sure rapid speed is some file if you want tinker how fast it hit limits
John, really cool machine! The additions you have planned sound really worthwhile too. When you are turning down to the threaded section diameter, why do you take it in so many passes? I'd have thought that machine would have the power to take a cut that size in one pass...two if you want a finer cut for finish and thread relief. Not so? Thanks for letting us watch! -- Mike
You're right I could definitely turn down that section in way less passes, maybe even just one pass! But if I push too hard with an insert that's not super sharp I run the risk of the metal bar sliding backwards in the collet, which throws off tolerances and causes all kinds of hassle. What I really should do is use that grooving tool to rough the diameter down to close. I betcha I haven't used 1/10 of the 3hp that this machine has!
Thanks for the info. I hadn't thought of the collet slipping problem, but coming in from the side with a series of plunge cuts sounds like a good solution. You'd want to stay away from your final face and clean that up with a different tool, but for bulk removal, it could work...and aren't cut-off tools cheaper than most of the others?
nice video, couple things i noticed, your 80 degree turning tool isnt on center that is why you get that knob, and usually in long run it will result in tip chipping,( i noticed the other side of 80 degree rougher was chipped) also you should put chamfer at the start of the thread, that will eliminate alot of hand work, but if you want virtually no hand work you can get specialized pitch inserts or you make threading pass then do finish turn pass with turn tool again followed by thread pass, that will cut any burs pushed by threading, you should also be able to make the second thread cycle only make 2 cuts instead of full 5-10 passes ( depending on thread)
Thanks for the tips, I know that CCMT tool is below center, I just haven't cared enough to center it yet. But I did not know it could lead to edge chipping, thanks for telling me that. There the finish tool does put a tiny chamfer on the front of the threads, maybe it could be bigger but I need these threads to go all the way to the bottom. There are no burrs to deal with, the parts come off great!
JohnGrimsmo you are welcome, i run mazak lathe at work once in a while and we get some production parts, nothing that tiny tho. Also one thing about rapids they actually dont save that much time, i ran few parts, and comparison between 50% rapid and 100% rapid usually only saves about 5- 10 seconds over 10 minute run time, (oh mazaks at 100% are scary lathe can go from home position of about 8 feet to chuck in about 3 seconds!), realistically tho most of the machine time will be spend near part, and the best way to save time is finding sweet spot between taking of biggest cuts and having reliable process. Another thing to mention, the rule of thumb is when you have more material to take of in x rather then in z, use bar face ( basically like facing the part but you stop at whatever diameter you need,leave some for finish), you dont need to use grooving tool for that you could just do it with your rougher then finish the normal way. watching your videos makes me appreciate our machines at work, but at same time its awesome to see how you do so much with so little. Also would like to mention that you make great videos! I been watching your channel for little over a year now, and i always look forward to your new videos :)
Hi John, I'm gonna post a video in the next couple days on making your own bar feeder. I'll show the Hardinge one I have and the upsized version I made for my big Hardinge lathe. I think you'll want to make one of these after you see it.
Hey awesome video again. Is your hsmworks post for the slant pro available anywhere. We just got one at school and I would love to use hsmworks with it.
Sweet! I think I'm using a slightly modified Haas post, so you can start there. It's weird coding for gang tools because some are upside down and/or backwards. Just watch your simulations, read the code, wrap your head around the directions, and start cutting slowly! Have fun with it!
Hey John. Nice job as always! I've got some tight shoulder threading work. What's the make of the threading bar and insert that you used? Where'd you purchase them? Keep up the great work. Best.
thanks! i got the threading bar from Tormach but Shars would sell the same thing. if you look closely at the insert i actually ground it down so that i can thread closer to the shoulder. i used a 400 grit diamond cup wheel from eBay, mounted it in the lathe spindle then ground the insert right on the lathe. easier than it seems.
awesome video. I have a question. For such a small part, isn't the cost savings of making the part yourself kind of offset by the cost of running the machine for 2+ minutes in electricity?
Humm, I don't know really. But just because it's small doesn't mean it would be cheap to have it made elsewhere. I'd guess it would cost at least $3-10 to have it made like this in a machine shop, and some shops I've dealt with are crappy at holding tolerances so they send back parts that suck and don't fit. Plus the waiting time. This lets me blame myself if they don't work haha, but more importantly I can fix it easily and run parts quickly whenever I need them.
Is electricity ridiculously expensive where you're from or something? Or, do you think machine shops don't have to pay for electricity? (well, here they get a break on what they pay, but still)
Bar puller is nice, but that eats space. What about a bar pusher? Using an electric actuator (no need to mess around with air or liquids for a test) you could push the bar (as you would manually). In fact, you could, using the existing draw bar setup, make a an actuator at the end for collet lock as well. Both electronic, both easy to feed as extra programming in to the computer (could be a simple activation line and have a controller unit run the whole deal on the actuator side). You could make this in to a very simple, bolt on package that doesn't stick out too much of the machine's end and most importantly, doesn't require air or liquids to run. Just my two cents, hopefully, that make sense. :)
For a bar pusher you'd be limited to how long of a bar you could install, and if I install an 18" bar the pusher would then stick out 18+" out the back. Not the case with a puller. I'm not knocking it, I think it's a sweet idea, but an off the shelf bar puller for $60 sounds pretty tempting too. I don't know if you could make an electric collet actuator reliable enough, it takes a decent amount of force to unlock the drawbar. I'm installing a piston that should provide over 150lbs of force. Should be enough ;-).
Me too! We'll see if I can justify buying one in the next few months. I don't need it yet, but it would be sweet to have some tools that can just always stay in the turret.
JohnGrimsmo oh my bad, I thought you already ordered it. To be more concise I was actually pondering if it was possible to mount two turrets on that cross slide and having both tools pointed to center so while one turret was indexing to the next tool you could be cutting on the other side, would just have to run your tools upside down on one of them... thoughts?
JohnGrimsmo Sometimes the thread burr, doing the way you do, will turn into the thread making not thread as should. The way I do it is: finhish-> thread-> finish only the chanfer backwards-> then repeat the last threading pass
I'm curious, how much of a tolerance do you have with your parts? Striving for perfection is great, you have a bunch of amazing little finishing touches you do- I'm just curious if a couple thou would make a difference in the finished product? Oh, and you shouldn't stop the spindle while your tool is still touching the workpiece. Good way to dull it quickly, lathe or mill. And if you're worried about sizes to the tenths, going down to .3699 and then up 1 tenth to .3700 doesn't work, like you did it. Even CNCs have backlash
For the knife tolerance it depends on what part we're talking about. Some things I want to keep in the tenths, others can be off by a few thou, but for the most part everything has to be well under 0.002" off. And yes I know about the backlash issues, so if I'm only moving one tenth I'll move away a few thou then come back to the new reading.
JohnGrimsmo That's awesome. Quality! Definitely the most interesting knife videos, and the most interesting machining videos I've seen Did you start machining as a hobby, or for work outside of knife making?
auto chucks are awesome when you have a few hundred parts to run between that and a puller its easy to make a 300 part run while your running a mill and or deburring parts. why not try to find an insert for your groover that will cut deeper on the headstock side making single pass part off? if it were me i would increase your cut depth on your rougher to only two or three passes. to make this part on my lathe at work i think i could get the run time down to about a minute fifteen seconds.
I can't make these completely on the mill. But I think the mill time is 3 minutes per, but that's taking a looooong time to mill the torx head and to do a fancy engraving. It could be a lot faster.
Holy crap! 0.370, right on the dot? That's awesome! Occasionally I think I want a lathe, and the recent videos showing this bad boy are making it worse.
Agreed, I definitely need to rig up a little parts catcher, even just a little plastic bucket under the parting tool. Fishing these tiny parts out isn't thaaat bad, but they're often smaller than the chips!
I will file a complaint against this Tormach company through all the channels I use. This is because I have not sent the product for more than 3 months without any reason for my order and there is no response to the refund request. I hope that companies like this don't do that.
hey dude, i've watched some of your videos... you cool... but ... :D CHANGE THE FUCKING *CCMT's PATH THIS IS DISGUSTING :D ... *not sure its ccmt :D the tip wears a lot faster if its not with its right feeds, speeds and depth of cut. maybe its harder with this conversational control from Tormach maybe ?
Nice little lathe, You do good work John.
Fantastic look at your process. Thanks for taking the time to show the detail.
No problem Greg!
Hi John,
Many thanks for a really informative and interesting video.
With the time it took to explain this: It is like trying to explain something on a text, it takes ten times as long as when you would actually show someone. And really that goes for the working of the machine as well as an explanation of the job you are doing. I thank you very much indeed and am jealous as hell!
I live in London England UK and have wanted to build a specific Machine, and now as an invalid it is not easy, whereas if I had both your machine I could do it but as I can’t get anything at all like them I will have to buy a machine damn!
John, this is an amazing machine to start a bussiness. I deal with bigger machines with bar pullers and barfeeders and they are great, but not mine. Thank you for these videos.
Exactly Jairo! Glad to see you on here. Big fancy machines are great, but this one is MINE. In my garage, no less.
Love watching these videos! For that random project, design and make your own lanyard beads, like a limited run, it would make for an awesome video!
I have thought about lanyard beads, but they're just getting so common that they bore me a little bit. But you're right, it would make for a sweet video. I've got some other ideas too, so stay tuned ;-).
I love your videos. I look forward to them with great anticipation.
Thanks Dex!!!
@ 14:15 I suggest that you do a planar operation (In X) with the same tool, instead of a Z-axis cut. (That tool is made to go both ways) That will save you a lot of time. Also, reduce the plunge clearance for the tools. :)
Thanks for the details and closeups!!!! Awesome work John!!
Thanks buddy!
I think I will turn one of my 7 manual mini lathes into a mini tormach CNC do alike for small parts.
Hi John can you make a video how to setup the gang tooling
That's some great turning footage!
Regarding the bar puller - for now, could you program pauses into the code, so the puller loads the stock at the end of the program? It wouldn't make it an autonomous machine but you wouldn't need to push the rod manually.
I guess I could do that, and that would at least allow it to count parts for me which would be helpful! Great idea.
That's an interesting lathe, I guess most people use it for second operations. I was always told that machining titanium needed cooling because it tended to work harden very quickly, although I was told that a long time ago now so perhaps things have moved on since then. You do have a lot of wasted material there although the lathe makes a decent job of turning the screw.
Amazing! How did you clean up the nubs?
Great stuff, that machine seems to excel at what you are using it for. Maybe a two stage bar puller mounted on a linear slide could save you some space for the gang tooling, one stage advances between existing tools and the other grabs/releases the stock. Something like a pair of opposed pincer points for gripping.
Nice work John
My first 15L comment was that it was screaming for an automated collet closer. While waiting for that, I'd still get the bar puller and get that working with the manually operated collet closer.
LinuxCNC (PathPilot) for the threading win! Woot!
Very nice looking parts and the titanium machining looks great. I'm currently fussing a bit with a .247" OD titanium pin that has too much sticky outy. Part deflection results in tolerance problems as sometimes the carbide insert cuts, and other times it skips over the surface and deflects the part. Gonna need to turn that with a tailstock.
Nice video as usual. I wonder if the cold start offset is "predictable". Like, could the machine compensate for the warmup period using "hidden offsets" based on coolant temp and how long/hard the machine's been running.
No it's not predictable, not as far as I've seen. Basically when power is applied or removed from the steppers I think they kick to the next rotation point where the magnets attract the rotor (I'm literally making this up because I know the theory but not the right words haha). And who knows which way the stepper will kick when powered on.
Dude, someday I'm coming up to visit. Tormach better be giving you free stuff for all the free advertisement. I def want one.
What is the toolholder used for tool 5? I need something like that and would rather buy than make :)
Do you show how to make the torx hole?
I imagine you could design a jig or chuck plate in CAD with 20+ threaded holes and then reuse this file to run the Torx cuts once the plate is made. From there, you set the screws in the plate and run the Torx cutting job with an end mill sized for the lobes of the T9 torx profile. Might consider using loktite since the thread is so short, but gutentight should work just fine for that small a cut.
God damn thats awesome! I love the threading
tip: All you have to do is devide your bar pull length by the total length of the bar, subtract a part or two for safety and that's your part count.
Nice vid big John, it may be slow but sure beats the heck out of making the spacers in the mill..... round = lathe everything else in the mill.
I totally agree! And as you probably saw from my other vids, dimensions are PERFECT on this lathe, I love it.
I swear, the only thing you don't make is the metal, like Ti, and steals. I think you should forge your own Damscus!! Jeff's blend, with little norsemen in the design!!!
Ha! Yeah we do try to at least have the ability/knowledge to make everything in house. To be honest I have very little interest in forging, I think it's awesome, but not really for me. I'm happy to support the shops that love doing it though ;-).
Highly recommend the Royal style partoff/bar pull, if you can make it work in your gang setup. Glad you were able to get them going on there, I think the relief would've done it for me too. Ah well, now i'm 200 miles from my lathe. Process looks ridiculously familiar, even down to undercutting the underside. I was under a minute total cycle time from part to part, just using the identical V tool to do 100% of the outside turning.. Any intentions to start using HSMWorks for programming your turning?
I was just going to use what Brad uses, the little durham bar pullers, but I haven't ordered anything yet. I did use HSMworks to code a lot of that, I guess for both turning tools, for the threading I used Tormach's built in wizards and the parting I coded by hand. I could probably shave a minute off if I really pushed it. Sure is fun though!
The royal could potentially save a spot, but its really dependent on if it works in your setup. Most likely, it'd force you to switch to a cutoff tool mounted axially, which would kill even more space. If thats the case, then the ones Brad uses are perfectly fine too.
yes that tool cut s1000 with that jog speed. perfect. and that material. it is same tolerance as you make bunch of part and measure differenses. and sure rapid speed is some file if you want tinker how fast it hit limits
John, really cool machine! The additions you have planned sound really worthwhile too.
When you are turning down to the threaded section diameter, why do you take it in so many passes? I'd have thought that machine would have the power to take a cut that size in one pass...two if you want a finer cut for finish and thread relief. Not so?
Thanks for letting us watch!
-- Mike
You're right I could definitely turn down that section in way less passes, maybe even just one pass! But if I push too hard with an insert that's not super sharp I run the risk of the metal bar sliding backwards in the collet, which throws off tolerances and causes all kinds of hassle. What I really should do is use that grooving tool to rough the diameter down to close. I betcha I haven't used 1/10 of the 3hp that this machine has!
Thanks for the info. I hadn't thought of the collet slipping problem, but coming in from the side with a series of plunge cuts sounds like a good solution. You'd want to stay away from your final face and clean that up with a different tool, but for bulk removal, it could work...and aren't cut-off tools cheaper than most of the others?
nice video, couple things i noticed, your 80 degree turning tool isnt on center that is why you get that knob, and usually in long run it will result in tip chipping,( i noticed the other side of 80 degree rougher was chipped) also you should put chamfer at the start of the thread, that will eliminate alot of hand work, but if you want virtually no hand work you can get specialized pitch inserts or you make threading pass then do finish turn pass with turn tool again followed by thread pass, that will cut any burs pushed by threading, you should also be able to make the second thread cycle only make 2 cuts instead of full 5-10 passes ( depending on thread)
Thanks for the tips, I know that CCMT tool is below center, I just haven't cared enough to center it yet. But I did not know it could lead to edge chipping, thanks for telling me that. There the finish tool does put a tiny chamfer on the front of the threads, maybe it could be bigger but I need these threads to go all the way to the bottom. There are no burrs to deal with, the parts come off great!
JohnGrimsmo you are welcome, i run mazak lathe at work once in a while and we get some production parts, nothing that tiny tho. Also one thing about rapids they actually dont save that much time, i ran few parts, and comparison between 50% rapid and 100% rapid usually only saves about 5- 10 seconds over 10 minute run time, (oh mazaks at 100% are scary lathe can go from home position of about 8 feet to chuck in about 3 seconds!), realistically tho most of the machine time will be spend near part, and the best way to save time is finding sweet spot between taking of biggest cuts and having reliable process.
Another thing to mention, the rule of thumb is when you have more material to take of in x rather then in z, use bar face ( basically like facing the part but you stop at whatever diameter you need,leave some for finish), you dont need to use grooving tool for that you could just do it with your rougher then finish the normal way.
watching your videos makes me appreciate our machines at work, but at same time its awesome to see how you do so much with so little. Also would like to mention that you make great videos! I been watching your channel for little over a year now, and i always look forward to your new videos :)
Hi John, I'm gonna post a video in the next couple days on making your own bar feeder. I'll show the Hardinge one I have and the upsized version I made for my big Hardinge lathe. I think you'll want to make one of these after you see it.
Hey awesome video again. Is your hsmworks post for the slant pro available anywhere. We just got one at school and I would love to use hsmworks with it.
Sweet! I think I'm using a slightly modified Haas post, so you can start there. It's weird coding for gang tools because some are upside down and/or backwards. Just watch your simulations, read the code, wrap your head around the directions, and start cutting slowly! Have fun with it!
Hey John.
Nice job as always!
I've got some tight shoulder threading work. What's the make of the threading bar and insert that you used? Where'd you purchase them?
Keep up the great work.
Best.
thanks! i got the threading bar from Tormach but Shars would sell the same thing. if you look closely at the insert i actually ground it down so that i can thread closer to the shoulder. i used a 400 grit diamond cup wheel from eBay, mounted it in the lathe spindle then ground the insert right on the lathe. easier than it seems.
awesome video. I have a question. For such a small part, isn't the cost savings of making the part yourself kind of offset by the cost of running the machine for 2+ minutes in electricity?
Humm, I don't know really. But just because it's small doesn't mean it would be cheap to have it made elsewhere. I'd guess it would cost at least $3-10 to have it made like this in a machine shop, and some shops I've dealt with are crappy at holding tolerances so they send back parts that suck and don't fit. Plus the waiting time. This lets me blame myself if they don't work haha, but more importantly I can fix it easily and run parts quickly whenever I need them.
Is electricity ridiculously expensive where you're from or something? Or, do you think machine shops don't have to pay for electricity?
(well, here they get a break on what they pay, but still)
Bar puller is nice, but that eats space. What about a bar pusher? Using an electric actuator (no need to mess around with air or liquids for a test) you could push the bar (as you would manually).
In fact, you could, using the existing draw bar setup, make a an actuator at the end for collet lock as well. Both electronic, both easy to feed as extra programming in to the computer (could be a simple activation line and have a controller unit run the whole deal on the actuator side).
You could make this in to a very simple, bolt on package that doesn't stick out too much of the machine's end and most importantly, doesn't require air or liquids to run.
Just my two cents, hopefully, that make sense. :)
For a bar pusher you'd be limited to how long of a bar you could install, and if I install an 18" bar the pusher would then stick out 18+" out the back. Not the case with a puller. I'm not knocking it, I think it's a sweet idea, but an off the shelf bar puller for $60 sounds pretty tempting too.
I don't know if you could make an electric collet actuator reliable enough, it takes a decent amount of force to unlock the drawbar. I'm installing a piston that should provide over 150lbs of force. Should be enough ;-).
I wanna see double gang turret action
Me too! We'll see if I can justify buying one in the next few months. I don't need it yet, but it would be sweet to have some tools that can just always stay in the turret.
JohnGrimsmo oh my bad, I thought you already ordered it. To be more concise I was actually pondering if it was possible to mount two turrets on that cross slide and having both tools pointed to center so while one turret was indexing to the next tool you could be cutting on the other side, would just have to run your tools upside down on one of them... thoughts?
Hi, nice work.
Consider make that finish pass, after the threading, backwards.
Its better because of the burrs of the thread.
Backwards eh? Interesting, I had never heard that before.
JohnGrimsmo Sometimes the thread burr, doing the way you do, will turn into the thread making not thread as should. The way I do it is: finhish-> thread-> finish only the chanfer backwards-> then repeat the last threading pass
I'm curious, how much of a tolerance do you have with your parts? Striving for perfection is great, you have a bunch of amazing little finishing touches you do- I'm just curious if a couple thou would make a difference in the finished product?
Oh, and you shouldn't stop the spindle while your tool is still touching the workpiece. Good way to dull it quickly, lathe or mill. And if you're worried about sizes to the tenths, going down to .3699 and then up 1 tenth to .3700 doesn't work, like you did it. Even CNCs have backlash
For the knife tolerance it depends on what part we're talking about. Some things I want to keep in the tenths, others can be off by a few thou, but for the most part everything has to be well under 0.002" off.
And yes I know about the backlash issues, so if I'm only moving one tenth I'll move away a few thou then come back to the new reading.
JohnGrimsmo That's awesome. Quality! Definitely the most interesting knife videos, and the most interesting machining videos I've seen
Did you start machining as a hobby, or for work outside of knife making?
auto chucks are awesome when you have a few hundred parts to run between that and a puller its easy to make a 300 part run while your running a mill and or deburring parts.
why not try to find an insert for your groover that will cut deeper on the headstock side making single pass part off?
if it were me i would increase your cut depth on your rougher to only two or three passes.
to make this part on my lathe at work i think i could get the run time down to about a minute fifteen seconds.
So awesome!
How long it takes to do them on the lathe + mill rather to do them only on mill? :)
I can't make these completely on the mill. But I think the mill time is 3 minutes per, but that's taking a looooong time to mill the torx head and to do a fancy engraving. It could be a lot faster.
Holy crap! 0.370, right on the dot? That's awesome!
Occasionally I think I want a lathe, and the recent videos showing this bad boy are making it worse.
Awesome bro!
Where do you get your grooving tool inserts? I have the same tool.
Has anyone ever tried fitting these with servos?
One thing I noticed: Its missing a part catcher. I presume fishing out parts from the pan isn't much fun. Thanks for sharing!
Agreed, I definitely need to rig up a little parts catcher, even just a little plastic bucket under the parting tool. Fishing these tiny parts out isn't thaaat bad, but they're often smaller than the chips!
Now you have another business unit to create: Grimsmo Automated Tools Inc :)
Super
I will file a complaint against this Tormach company through all the channels I use.
This is because I have not sent the product for more than 3 months without any reason for my order and there is no response to the refund request.
I hope that companies like this don't do that.
1. Faster Rapids make all the difference. 2. Gang Tooling has it downfalls. 3. You don't have to go home to do a turret/tool change.
Super jumpy if you haven't noticed already. Not sure what's up. Still great work as always though
hey dude, i've watched some of your videos... you cool...
but ... :D CHANGE THE FUCKING *CCMT's PATH THIS IS DISGUSTING :D ...
*not sure its ccmt :D
the tip wears a lot faster if its not with its right feeds, speeds and depth of cut.
maybe its harder with this conversational control from Tormach maybe ?