Exactly what I was looking for. How to clean up the rear parking brakes without replacing them. I really appreciate all you guys that take the time to post videos like this. It sure beats trying to figure out stuff with the old Chiltons manuals.
First time changing these drums on this car and I’ve been struggling with them coming off. Turns out it was the parking break holding them in, thanks for the video which shows what I was doing wrong😂
The parking brake on my 2003 Sequoia barely working so need to take a look at the brake shoes before the next annual inspection. Bought replacements online for only $20 so intend to give the area a good clean and put them on, as well as replacing the rubber brake hoses. Replaced the calipers and brake pads last year so this is the only thing brake wise that is outstanding. Thanks for your video.
Great vid man. I came to TH-cam searching for this type of problem as I've been experiencing occasional and completely random e-brake drag while driving at 70+ mph on the highway in my 2015 Lexus GS 350. It has happened 5 or 6 times over the past year and a half, and I've reported the symptoms - thrumming and vibrating somewhere under the car - to my Lexus dealership and they keep giving me the same lame results - "Could not duplicate customer's concern". Recently the problem reoccurred while driving 75 mph in traffic, and I had the sense to turn on my phone's video cam and film the sound. For months I had been suspecting the sound was from my electronic parking brake system somehow engaging and causing heat buildup and therefor noise and vibration. Realizing I had a chance to test my theory, I pulled on my e-brake button below the steering wheel and sure enough, the noise got louder and vibrated more, but only until I released the button. After that, slowing below 65 mph made the noise dissipate. This proved to me that the e-brake shoes (aka parking brake) were binding inside the rotor hat and causing heat buildup. Luckily, I was approaching the exit to my Lexus dealer in Hingham, MA, and pulled into their garage. I could feel intense heat radiating off the passenger side rotor hat, and I knew right away that this confirmed my suspicion. Flash forward a couple weeks, my car is at that dealer being diagnosed, and for the 5th or 6th time I'm getting the same lame discussion over the phone that they couldn't reproduce the problem and there was no error code in the scan tool blah blah blah... and I lost my sh*t over the phone hearing this. I got that "I don't need your abusive language" bullsh*t from the service writer, and the argument went on and on. I'm beyond frustrated. I asked them to pull the rotor and look for heat scorching on the inside of the rotor, and I expect to be lied to now. This, from a Lexus dealer. I expect that if I pull the rotor off in my driveway I'll see the heat scorching you showed at 1:30. I have one recommendation for your repair sequence based on my 30+ years of DIY driveway repairs on a half-dozen Mazdas, an Accord wagon and a Toyota Highlander I've owned. My experience living in the salty Northeast is that water gets under that seal in the caliper you talk about at 4:00 when you removed the slide pin ferrule. That salty water will corrode the inside surface of the ferrule opening and cause binding of the slide pin, which causes uneven pressure of the caliper on the pads as often one pin binds while the other one is free. This cause tons of issues from lack of braking power, binding of the pads on the rotor, reduced fuel economy, noise and more. The extra step I am suggesting is to remove that rubber seal, clean it off, remove the rust inside the hole on the caliper with a round file, clean the hole, add a thin layer of grease and reinstall the rubber seal. Works like a charm and restores original braking performance.
Good vid. I'd make one recommendation. When spreading open the rear caliper pistons to install the new pads, always place a rag over the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid you displace from the rear calipers will return to the brake fluid reservoir. If, in the past, the owner has topped off the brake fluid, it will fill up the reservoir to full, and then it will be forced to squirt out the vent hole in the reservoir cap! As you know, brake fluid is VERY corrosive. It will eat paint. By putting a rag over the cap, the rag will absorb any brake fluid that exits through the vent hole, and possibly landing on the engine compartment or fender. Could save you a paint job!! ( A retired mechanic of 27yrs )
Thanks for your post and comment! I usually check the brake fluid reservoir level together with brake pad wear. If the fluid level is low, that's usually a strong indication as well as confirmation of significant pad wear. Compressing the brake pistons will then bring the fluid level to its appropriate level. On occasion, I have a customer who checks the reservoir himself and tops it off with more fluid. When that happens, I suck the excess fluid out with turkey baster before compressing the caliper pistons. If I forget and encounter fluid overflow, I wash the fluid off the paint surfaces with water since brake fluid is hygroscopic.
@@hardlymovingpro Hahaha I'm just messing, you used it perfectly. I think you stole my bottle tho! I just lost that exact bottle, dirty and bent brush, I'm sure that's mine hahaha!
Brake system flush should be done only after research. Our 2004-2009 Prius , it was reported in forums, that a brake bleed would stress the 8 year old plastics in the internal caliper actuators and hurt the brake fluid modules. Several Dealerships stopped doing brake bleeds on Priuses older than 5 years. My two cents.
My wife got her 2005 Lexus RX330 out of the repair shop yesterday. New rear pads and rear rotors were installed. While driving home from the repair shop she heard a sound coming from the driver's side rear wheel. I took it back to the shop. The mechanic claimed the parking brake hardware needed to be replaced. He also said someone on his staff was supposed to mention the noise when the car was picked up. Nobody did. The mechanic went on to say the springs were weak and a pin within the parking brake hardware was bent. Funny thing about it is the noise did not occur prior to the rear brake pads and rotors being replaced. The car has 196,000 miles on it and this parking brake hardware noise issue is a first. As suspected, if I gently and minimally step on the parking brake while in motion (about 10 MPH) the noise goes away. The car repair shop wants to charge me $200.00 to replace the parking brake hardware. I also find it suspicious that the repair shop would release the car to the owner as road worthy with a prominent and consistent metal to metal noise in the braking system. Any thoughts on this issue would be most appreciated.
The parking brake design on you car is low tech. I suspect the brake shoes contact point with the backing plate needs grease lubrication since the shoes float on the plate. Lack of lube will lock the shoes in place until riding vibration jars them into the center.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for your reply. I suspect the mechanic was careless with the parking brake mechanism when replacing the rear brake pads and rotors. We never encountered this issue after many brake jobs performed over the car's 195,000 mile repair history. I doubt that the parking brake hardware needs to be replaced. As you pointed out, a bit of grease will most likely align the parking brake shoes and keep them from rubbing. That would also prevent Mr. Badwrench from extracting an additional $200.00 out of me.
Just a heads up, if you don't ever use your parking brake, then they did use it could cause the lock up. It happened to me and I thought maybe I had messed something up when doing my brakes a few months before. My squeal didn't start until i parked on a hill and decided to use these parking brake that hadn't been used for years. 😅 Just saying they might not have been trying to get over on you😉
What happened was the mechanic couldn't get the rotor off because the brake shoes had worn a slight groove in the hat part of the rotor where they sit making it difficult to remove the rotor. So instead of losing the star adjuster (on the bottom at 6 o'clock) to give him some wiggle room (pun intended) he just man-handled it off and broke the hold-down hardware on the park brake shoes resulting in he clicking noise. Rookie mistake shop should not have let it leave the shop before replacing the hardware, dangerous and it's damaging the new rotor as well.
I tried using my parking brake on my rx330 for the first time the other day (it finally snowed the first time this year in New England and was trying to use it to stop sliding) I felt no response what soever. Is the parking brake not strong enough to produce any real braking power for this vehicle and not suitable for e brake applications or is there something wrong with my parking brake? I still have to replace the back pads anyway and was going to check the shoes it’s just not on the top of my to do list.
I recently replaced my rear rotors and pads and then saw I had these break shoes. Are these only used when the parking break is engaged. Do you need to replace those cause I have no idea how thick they have to be in order to replace.
Technically you are correct. Silicone grease (aka di-electric, plumber's grease) is both water resistant and doesn't react with rubber; however, I don't not believe it holds up to high heat environments without degrading. The CRC Brake & Caliper grease, that I've been using for years, doesn't seem to hurt the rubber. Also, the rubber components that make up the caliper may be oil and water resistant ... like what I've been noticing being advertised by timing belt manufacturers. Believe its some high tech synthetic rubber compound.
Hello everyone, I live in Germany and there are not many Lexus parts here, or there are only original ones and they cost a lot. Can any of you please recommend an online shop in the US where I could buy auto parts?! Thanks in advance.
@@hardlymovingpro Question you might have some insight on. My parking brake light on the dash stays lit. The fluid is topped to max and the float inside is fine (I also tried disconnecting the wiring harness on the master cylinder to no avail). Someone told me if could be that the parking brake shoe needs adjusting. What do you think? Seems it's that or maybe the sensor under the center console parking brake lever. It's frustrating trying to trace this because it won't pass inspection with the light on.
There's usually not much material used in parking brake shoes because they're not used for stopping the car but to hold the car stationary. Go to any auto parts store and ask to see a set of "parking" brake shoes. You'll see there's very littler friction material.
@Tupac Shakur Personally I would never work on a vehicles braking system without doing a complete and thorough job of it, its just about knowing that I did everything by the book regardless... also there is not much point in tearing it all down without doing everything that needs to be done, you say the parking brakes are unnecessary but if you park your car on a steep hill then you had better hope that your parking brakes are going to hold up! And secondly if your car is an automatic transmission then it should never be left in just park mode without any parking brake applied, not only is that generally considered to be unsafe but some manufacturers claim that this can lead to damaging the transmission! And finally your parking brakes need to hold up on test when you have your vehicle tested, in this instance I guess this guy was completely satisfied that everything was safe and not requiring any further maintenance.
@@rob5896 Yup ... if your state has annual DMV inspections, you'd fail without functioning parking brakes. Parking brakes are also called emergency brakes which can be used if your brake's hydraulics fail.
Compressed air? Are you blowing the cancer dust into a cloud around you & your co-workers ? Brake clean and metal slim scrubber brush is what I use. Slower, yes, less exposure, yes. Use an acid resistant slim paint brush or swabs to pinpoint placement of brake grease between the Pk. shoes and contact points on support disc. My 2 cents. . .
Never put any sort of lubricant on with a spray as displayed in this video if Any get in contact with the brake shoe material contamination will cause the brake to either shine and thud making it in effective or throw it all over if its.that bad take it all apart stick clean an rebuild also with the shoes binding like that and they have also got hot bad idea to leave em in
Brake shoes are designed to ride on or float on the backing plate that it's mounted on. Lack of or wear off of lubrication on the metal contact surfaces can cause them to lock up to one or both sides - especially when the car is driven in Winter on salty roads.
![[FINALE] มีคนคิดแค้นลักพาตัวเด็กไป🔪หญิงชราใช้ชีวิตตัวเองเข้าแลก👩🦳 #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C_BPHPoZFOg/mqdefault.jpg)
Exactly what I was looking for. How to clean up the rear parking brakes without replacing them. I really appreciate all you guys that take the time to post videos like this. It sure beats trying to figure out stuff with the old Chiltons manuals.
Glad to help!
First time changing these drums on this car and I’ve been struggling with them coming off. Turns out it was the parking break holding them in, thanks for the video which shows what I was doing wrong😂
Glad I could help!
The parking brake on my 2003 Sequoia barely working so need to take a look at the brake shoes before the next annual inspection. Bought replacements online for only $20 so intend to give the area a good clean and put them on, as well as replacing the rubber brake hoses. Replaced the calipers and brake pads last year so this is the only thing brake wise that is outstanding. Thanks for your video.
You bet!
Great vid man. I came to TH-cam searching for this type of problem as I've been experiencing occasional and completely random e-brake drag while driving at 70+ mph on the highway in my 2015 Lexus GS 350. It has happened 5 or 6 times over the past year and a half, and I've reported the symptoms - thrumming and vibrating somewhere under the car - to my Lexus dealership and they keep giving me the same lame results - "Could not duplicate customer's concern".
Recently the problem reoccurred while driving 75 mph in traffic, and I had the sense to turn on my phone's video cam and film the sound. For months I had been suspecting the sound was from my electronic parking brake system somehow engaging and causing heat buildup and therefor noise and vibration. Realizing I had a chance to test my theory, I pulled on my e-brake button below the steering wheel and sure enough, the noise got louder and vibrated more, but only until I released the button. After that, slowing below 65 mph made the noise dissipate. This proved to me that the e-brake shoes (aka parking brake) were binding inside the rotor hat and causing heat buildup. Luckily, I was approaching the exit to my Lexus dealer in Hingham, MA, and pulled into their garage. I could feel intense heat radiating off the passenger side rotor hat, and I knew right away that this confirmed my suspicion.
Flash forward a couple weeks, my car is at that dealer being diagnosed, and for the 5th or 6th time I'm getting the same lame discussion over the phone that they couldn't reproduce the problem and there was no error code in the scan tool blah blah blah... and I lost my sh*t over the phone hearing this. I got that "I don't need your abusive language" bullsh*t from the service writer, and the argument went on and on. I'm beyond frustrated. I asked them to pull the rotor and look for heat scorching on the inside of the rotor, and I expect to be lied to now. This, from a Lexus dealer. I expect that if I pull the rotor off in my driveway I'll see the heat scorching you showed at 1:30.
I have one recommendation for your repair sequence based on my 30+ years of DIY driveway repairs on a half-dozen Mazdas, an Accord wagon and a Toyota Highlander I've owned. My experience living in the salty Northeast is that water gets under that seal in the caliper you talk about at 4:00 when you removed the slide pin ferrule. That salty water will corrode the inside surface of the ferrule opening and cause binding of the slide pin, which causes uneven pressure of the caliper on the pads as often one pin binds while the other one is free. This cause tons of issues from lack of braking power, binding of the pads on the rotor, reduced fuel economy, noise and more. The extra step I am suggesting is to remove that rubber seal, clean it off, remove the rust inside the hole on the caliper with a round file, clean the hole, add a thin layer of grease and reinstall the rubber seal. Works like a charm and restores original braking performance.
Thanks for sharing your story and recommendations for DIYers living in salty (rust prone) states!
Good vid. I'd make one recommendation. When spreading open the rear caliper pistons to install the new pads, always place a rag over the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid you displace from the rear calipers will return to the brake fluid reservoir. If, in the past, the owner has topped off the brake fluid, it will fill up the reservoir to full, and then it will be forced to squirt out the vent hole in the reservoir cap! As you know, brake fluid is VERY corrosive. It will eat paint. By putting a rag over the cap, the rag will absorb any brake fluid that exits through the vent hole, and possibly landing on the engine compartment or fender. Could save you a paint job!! ( A retired mechanic of 27yrs )
Thanks for your post and comment! I usually check the brake fluid reservoir level together with brake pad wear. If the fluid level is low, that's usually a strong indication as well as confirmation of significant pad wear. Compressing the brake pistons will then bring the fluid level to its appropriate level. On occasion, I have a customer who checks the reservoir himself and tops it off with more fluid. When that happens, I suck the excess fluid out with turkey baster before compressing the caliper pistons. If I forget and encounter fluid overflow, I wash the fluid off the paint surfaces with water since brake fluid is hygroscopic.
Thanks brother, this helped a ton!!!
Glad it helped!
Another mechanic sponsored by permatex!
Would be nice if true!
@@hardlymovingpro Hahaha I'm just messing, you used it perfectly. I think you stole my bottle tho! I just lost that exact bottle, dirty and bent brush, I'm sure that's mine hahaha!
You wouldn't believe how much Permatex products I sell with my Amazon links ... Especially the dielectric grease!
Can you please also list the power tools ? Starting from scratch
I use Milwaukee M18 & M12 impact tools ... and Milwaukee offers a lot of them.
Akebono brake pads work great. Some 3M silicone paste and for the finale, a brake system flush.
Yup! Akebono are great pads!
Brake system flush should be done only after research. Our 2004-2009 Prius , it was reported in forums, that a brake bleed would stress the 8 year old plastics in the internal caliper actuators and hurt the brake fluid modules.
Several Dealerships stopped doing brake bleeds on Priuses older than 5 years.
My two cents.
Very great video !
Thanks!
My wife got her 2005 Lexus RX330 out of the repair shop yesterday. New rear pads and rear rotors were installed. While driving home from the repair shop she heard a sound coming from the driver's side rear wheel. I took it back to the shop. The mechanic claimed the parking brake hardware needed to be replaced. He also said someone on his staff was supposed to mention the noise when the car was picked up. Nobody did. The mechanic went on to say the springs were weak and a pin within the parking brake hardware was bent. Funny thing about it is the noise did not occur prior to the rear brake pads and rotors being replaced. The car has 196,000 miles on it and this parking brake hardware noise issue is a first. As suspected, if I gently and minimally step on the parking brake while in motion (about 10 MPH) the noise goes away. The car repair shop wants to charge me $200.00 to replace the parking brake hardware. I also find it suspicious that the repair shop would release the car to the owner as road worthy with a prominent and consistent metal to metal noise in the braking system. Any thoughts on this issue would be most appreciated.
The parking brake design on you car is low tech. I suspect the brake shoes contact point with the backing plate needs grease lubrication since the shoes float on the plate. Lack of lube will lock the shoes in place until riding vibration jars them into the center.
@@hardlymovingpro
Thank you for your reply. I suspect the mechanic was careless with the parking brake mechanism when replacing the rear brake pads and rotors. We never encountered this issue after many brake jobs performed over the car's 195,000 mile repair history. I doubt that the parking brake hardware needs to be replaced. As you pointed out, a bit of grease will most likely align the parking brake shoes and keep them from rubbing. That would also prevent Mr. Badwrench from extracting an additional $200.00 out of me.
Just a heads up, if you don't ever use your parking brake, then they did use it could cause the lock up. It happened to me and I thought maybe I had messed something up when doing my brakes a few months before. My squeal didn't start until i parked on a hill and decided to use these parking brake that hadn't been used for years. 😅 Just saying they might not have been trying to get over on you😉
What happened was the mechanic couldn't get the rotor off because the brake shoes had worn a slight groove in the hat part of the rotor where they sit making it difficult to remove the rotor. So instead of losing the star adjuster (on the bottom at 6 o'clock) to give him some wiggle room (pun intended) he just man-handled it off and broke the hold-down hardware on the park brake shoes resulting in he clicking noise. Rookie mistake shop should not have let it leave the shop before replacing the hardware, dangerous and it's damaging the new rotor as well.
Makes sense and thanks for sharing!
I tried using my parking brake on my rx330 for the first time the other day (it finally snowed the first time this year in New England and was trying to use it to stop sliding) I felt no response what soever. Is the parking brake not strong enough to produce any real braking power for this vehicle and not suitable for e brake applications or is there something wrong with my parking brake? I still have to replace the back pads anyway and was going to check the shoes it’s just not on the top of my to do list.
Could be stuck parking brake a cable. Had to replace one on a RX300.
I recently replaced my rear rotors and pads and then saw I had these break shoes. Are these only used when the parking break is engaged. Do you need to replace those cause I have no idea how thick they have to be in order to replace.
You're correct. They're only used as parking brakes.
Great video, thanks
Thanks for your comment and support Tom!
I like surgical type tubing and a small turkey baster/big syringe combo to get brake grease in tight spaces
That can work.
Isn't silicone grease supposed to be used on the slider pins since petroleum based grease swells rubber?
Technically you are correct. Silicone grease (aka di-electric, plumber's grease) is both water resistant and doesn't react with rubber; however, I don't not believe it holds up to high heat environments without degrading. The CRC Brake & Caliper grease, that I've been using for years, doesn't seem to hurt the rubber. Also, the rubber components that make up the caliper may be oil and water resistant ... like what I've been noticing being advertised by timing belt manufacturers. Believe its some high tech synthetic rubber compound.
If the bottle says safe for rubber boots, then cool for caliper slide pins, too.
should have changed those shoes, they were rough looking. thanks for the video.
I wouldn't. They're only used for parking.
Hello everyone, I live in Germany and there are not many Lexus parts here, or there are only original ones and they cost a lot. Can any of you please recommend an online shop in the US where I could buy auto parts?! Thanks in advance.
Try RockAuto.com Don't know if they do overseas shipments.
@@hardlymovingpro You are the best. Thank you very, very much! 🙏👍
Try Autodoc in Berlin, one of Europe's biggest suppliers. They have 4 million car parts and an App...!
Somebody please tell me he did not put brake lube on the bolt threads 🤦
I guess you haven't dealt with seized nuts and bolt?
@@hardlymovingpro drop of oil on the threads not a gob of brake lube
Did anyone else see the caliper dangling by the brake line?
Yep, and I've been letting mine hang for over years of doing brake jobs. They're pretty durable.
Any idea how similar this is for a 1995 ES300?
Pretty much the same.
@@hardlymovingpro Question you might have some insight on. My parking brake light on the dash stays lit. The fluid is topped to max and the float inside is fine (I also tried disconnecting the wiring harness on the master cylinder to no avail). Someone told me if could be that the parking brake shoe needs adjusting. What do you think? Seems it's that or maybe the sensor under the center console parking brake lever. It's frustrating trying to trace this because it won't pass inspection with the light on.
@@dstewart7470 It's the sensor (plunger type) under the center console that gets stuck from dried out grease.
Brake shoes are pretty cheap even on Lexus I’d swap shoes & pads personally
The shoes are used only for parking ... not stopping.
Nice job muy bueno
Thanks for your comment and support Miriam!
that slide pin is blued af lololloololol
I can't believe your continuing with those old parking brake shoes?
Because they don't wear out unless you drive around with the parking brake on
@@hardlymovingpro They looked pretty spent on the video...
There's usually not much material used in parking brake shoes because they're not used for stopping the car but to hold the car stationary. Go to any auto parts store and ask to see a set of "parking" brake shoes. You'll see there's very littler friction material.
@Tupac Shakur Personally I would never work on a vehicles braking system without doing a complete and thorough job of it, its just about knowing that I did everything by the book regardless... also there is not much point in tearing it all down without doing everything that needs to be done, you say the parking brakes are unnecessary but if you park your car on a steep hill then you had better hope that your parking brakes are going to hold up! And secondly if your car is an automatic transmission then it should never be left in just park mode without any parking brake applied, not only is that generally considered to be unsafe but some manufacturers claim that this can lead to damaging the transmission! And finally your parking brakes need to hold up on test when you have your vehicle tested, in this instance I guess this guy was completely satisfied that everything was safe and not requiring any further maintenance.
@@rob5896 Yup ... if your state has annual DMV inspections, you'd fail without functioning parking brakes. Parking brakes are also called emergency brakes which can be used if your brake's hydraulics fail.
WOW You made a lot of mistakes
Compressed air? Are you blowing the cancer dust into a cloud around you & your co-workers ?
Brake clean and metal slim scrubber brush is what I use. Slower, yes, less exposure, yes.
Use an acid resistant slim paint brush or swabs to pinpoint placement of brake grease between the Pk. shoes and contact points on support disc.
My 2 cents. . .
Thanks for sharing!
Don't worry, even if you escape the brake dust the VOCs in the brake clean will be sure to give you lung problems and brain burn. My 2 cents... 😜
Hack...
Never put any sort of lubricant on with a spray as displayed in this video if Any get in contact with the brake shoe material contamination will cause the brake to either shine and thud making it in effective or throw it all over if its.that bad take it all apart stick clean an rebuild also with the shoes binding like that and they have also got hot bad idea to leave em in
Brake shoes are designed to ride on or float on the backing plate that it's mounted on. Lack of or wear off of lubrication on the metal contact surfaces can cause them to lock up to one or both sides - especially when the car is driven in Winter on salty roads.
You didn't disassemble the parking brake assembly which would have been helpful. Waste of time!
Parking brake shoes have been so far working fine. But up to you how extreme of a service you want to do.