✨ *PRODUCTS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO* 🛌 Get *30% off your RV Mattress* by Brooklyn Bedding at rvmattress.com/rvtips Use discount code: rvtips 🔹 Water Splitter amzn.to/3NLqL9E 🔸 Sewer Hose Kit (Clear Elbow Included) amzn.to/3Uw5btM 🔹 Clear Elbow Only amzn.to/3UwEuF9 🔸 Nylon Plug Spares amzn.to/3C1eBqx 🔹 T&P Valve Temperature / Pressure Relief Valve amzn.to/4e7YhBZ 🔸 Anode Rod amzn.to/48pqOSc 🔹 Dielectric Grease amzn.to/3Yxk3JE 🔸 CRC Terminal Cleaner amzn.to/3YxkfZo 🔹 Low Point Drain Valves amzn.to/4fjWA5c 🔸 Shop MORE RV Parts www.amazon.com/shop/rvtipstravels *OTHER VIDEOS YOU MAY LIKE* 🎥 Exposed: Poor Build Quality th-cam.com/video/SFn2kkpb8i0/w-d-xo.html 🎥 Winterize the Right Way th-cam.com/video/e8SY7P8Fm5I/w-d-xo.html 📺 See ALL our videos: www.youtube.com/@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS/videos *5 RV Misconceptions People STILL Believe (#4 Makes Things WORSE!)* 5 misconceptions & myths discussed, and what you should be doing instead. Some of these RV mistakes can be costly. Today I'll show you why some widely accepted RV practices are wrong, and corrections you can make so you dont destroy your RV! Chapters in this video: 0:00 Misconception 1: Water Pressure 1:24 Intro 1:32 Misconception 2: Waste Tanks 2:46 Misconception 3: Water Heaters 5:31 Get a REAL Mattress 6:15 Misconception 4: Electrical Connections 8:42 Misconception 5: Low Point Drains #rv #rvlife #rvliving #rvlifestyle #rvtips #rvtravel *RV ESSENTIALS:* 🎥 Our Essentials Video: th-cam.com/video/yuvS3zZL81c/w-d-xo.html 🔸 Camco Rhino Flex Sewer Hose & Elbow Kit amzn.to/3wxaiyG 🔹 Clear Sewer Hose Elbow amzn.to/3eezBe7 🔸 Tastepure Water Filter amzn.to/4dfEp0x 🔹 Rubber Wheel Chocks amzn.to/3v0lL5I 🔸 Power Watchdog 30 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3hAmgCy 🔹 Power Watchdog 50 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3SDYTHs 🔸 Beech Lane Wireless RV Leveler amzn.to/402YpgI 🔹 Liquified RV Tank Treatment amzn.to/3ksg1Ck 🔸 Tire Minder TPMS amzn.to/3mjuBg0 🔹 Water Pressure Regulator amzn.to/3m3ZFzZ 🔸 Best RV Water Hose amzn.to/3RCXalb 🔹 Haloview Back Up Camera System www.haloview.com/byte-tango-bt7-touch-1080p-wireless-backup-camera-system-with-touch-screen.html?acc=765 *MAINTENANCE:* 🔸 Boeshield T-9 Rust Preventative & Lubrication amzn.to/3sjcjMx 🔹 Eternabond Roof Tape amzn.to/3Ad290J 🔸 Geocell Proflex Sealant amzn.to/3Qdbj8c 🔹 Road Tool Kit amzn.to/41NIQKj *INTERIOR:* 🔸 Cross Bar Door Handle amzn.to/3o8WWS5 🔹 Shower Caddy amzn.to/3bdU80W 🔸 Soap Dish amzn.to/3pKheSn 🔹 Oxygenics Shower Head amzn.to/3RCQKm1 🔸 Perfect RV Paper Towel Holder amzn.to/3tZxd1K 🔹 Dimmer Switch (watch this video) th-cam.com/video/2bbqBcSsRZQ/w-d-xo.html 🔸 Electric Heater/Fireplace amzn.to/3ZCgDqZ *EXTERIOR:* 🔹 X Chocks amzn.to/3m3ck2i 🔸 Low Point Drain Valves amzn.to/3Vko8AH 🔹 90 Degree Hose Elbow amzn.to/3RH1ksn *OUTDOOR GEAR:* 🔹 Blackstone Griddle amzn.to/3TG0pK1 🔸 Outdoor Gravity Chairs amzn.to/3Sb1p4M 🔹 Ground Mat amzn.to/41u3wXg 💥 Sign up for our FREE Newsletter: rvtipsandtravels.myflodesk.com/freenewsletter 👇 *DISCOUNT & COUPON CODES* 🚐 *10% off RV Snappads & Snapjacks* rvsnappad.com/discount/RVTT10 🛌 Get *30% off your RV Mattress* by Brooklyn Bedding at rvmattress.com/rvtips Use discount code: rvtips 🚴♂ Lectric eBikes - The BEST electric bikes for RV life! lectricebikes.sjv.io/nLrJ3x 📷 Haloview Back Up Cameras *5% Off & FREE Shipping* (Use code RVTIPS at checkout) www.haloview.com/products/byte-tango-1080p-observation-camera-system.html?acc=765 🚛 TireMinder TPMS Systems (use coupon code RVTIPS25, get $25 off select systems) www.minderresearch.com/ (good through 2024) 💦 Blu Technology Water Filtration Systems *7% OFF EVERYTHING* (Use code RVTIPS at checkout) goblutech.com/xxnnkdun 💻 *We have a store on eBay!* www.ebay.com/usr/rv_tips_and_travels *If you want to support the work I do to help others, you can:* 1) Buy us a coffee: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=J2KKM9NR3BJJA 2) If you cannot donate, the easiest way to support our channel is to SUBSCRIBE, turn on ALL NOTIFICATIONS, click the LIKE BUTTON, leave a COMMENT & SHARE the videos with your friends. ✨ *MORE RV ACCESSORIES ON AMAZON* ✨ www.amazon.com/shop/rvtipstravels 💥 *NEW TO OUR CHANNEL?* Check out our catalog: www.youtube.com/@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS/playlists *Follow Us on Social Media* instagram.com/RVTipsAndTravels facebook.com/RVTipsAndTravels www.tiktok.com/@rvtipsandtravelsofficial If you find a dead link, *PLEASE* let us know. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. There is NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU when purchasing from our links. AI imagery & audio may be used in this video.
I've been bingeing your videos since I found your channel and I've been learning a ton. Thank you so much for covering so many great topics with practical easy to understand info.
I’ve been turning wrenches for close to 40 years now at a large automotive dealership here in Texas. I still encounter new wrenches smothering connectors in dielectric grease. The part about grease in this video is soooo true. I’m confused why people still don’t understand how to use it. Thanks for making this, hopefully some new mechanics see this.
you can of course add it on terminals, the instructions on the dielectric grease actually say to do this... i just dont recommend doing that, especially in applications where dirt, grass and small rocks is prone to stick to the grease.
I use the compressed air method to winterize my TT and then add RV antifreeze into the sink and shower P traps. The toilet bowl gets enough antifreeze to cover the bowl fkap. I fill the Black and Grey tanks with 4 gallons of a water-antifreezmix to prevent the tank crud from drying out.
This was an extremely helpful VID. The statements on the dialectic grease is particularly useful and using the contact cleaner regularly to keep things clean. One thing that I will be doing on my new RV which I will be getting in the next month or so will be to get a “dummy” plug for the 7-pin connector. It will keep the contacts clean and not exposed to the elements. A plastic bag with a twist tie would do the same thing but the dummy plug will be more robust.
ive been thinking about 3d printing a 7 pin connector cover and offering it to our viewers at a cost far less than what you can buy them for. the problem is they are already pretty cheap, but a good idea nonetheless!
You're cute....every time you say ,"If you're learning something from this video" I learn something from every video you put out. Thank you for all the trouble you go through to make these for us. your content is so good.
New RVer here, love your videos, they were essential in this first year. When I was learning how to winterize the RV, the guy said to me “don’t store the battery on the ground, it will discharge it and it won’t charge back”. I said “ok, that doesn’t make sense, but thanks”. So, as far as I understand this WAS true a longtime ago, but now, batteries are plastic boxes, so it doesn’t matter. Have you heard of this?
this is an old time tale... it has something to do with concrete and old batteries... i dont remember all the details but it doesnt really hold true anymore. a trickle charger like this one will keep the battery charged over the winter (if you remove it). amzn.to/4g4Pm5m
Ross, I respect your opinion and have been subscribed for a few years now, but I have to comment on the point about aluminum hot water tanks and the nylon plug (with a caveat). Yes, you should keep the nylon drain plug in place UNLESS you are having an issue with rotten egg smell in your hot water. If that's the case, you can remove the nylon nut and use an aluminum/zinc anode (NOT the magnesium anode!). You are also correct that aluminum tanks don't need an anode to prevent corrosion, but using an aluminum/zinc anode will help kill off the bacteria that causes the hydrogen sulfide gas (which produces that rotten egg smell). It will not harm your aluminum tank, but it does mean you will need to be more diligent about regularly cleaning your tank because the anode will break down and leave deposits on the bottom. You can also flush your tank or treat with vinegar or peroxide instead, but I like not having to worry about it, so I prefer to use an aluminum/zinc anode. So yes Ross, you are 100% correct on this one, but there are circumstances when using an anode in an aluminum tank is beneficial. You didn't mention that point so I thought I should flag this exception to your statement. Keep up the great content. Wishing you great success with your channel.
thanks for the comment... I asked the same question to a Dometic engineer and their response was that if you are getting a sulfer smell, you're not using the right filters. a well water iron filter will take of hydrogen sulfide and eliminate the problem before it is even entering your plumbing lines. a good filter system like the AR3 from Blu Technology should also prevent H.S. gas. Ive read that carbon filters and softeners will also help with this issue... ultimately, I think a proper filter system would be my first solution. Another issue you run into is galvanic corrosion. This occurs when aluminum comes into contact with another metal in the presence of an electrolyte, such as moisture (water). This creates an electrical circuit that causes one metal to become weaker and the other to become stronger. You might be doing more harm than good to the inside of that tank. However, i dont think thats the case because zinc and aluminum are galvanically compatible. This would definitely be a problem with magnesium rods though. Again, I'm just reading definitions from university science departments, im definitely no expert on it. I really do appreciate your input and I'm definitely not arguing with you, but if a dometic engineer says how to and how to not use his product, I'm not in a position where I think I can disagree with that without some serious science to back my argument. If it works for you, then thats great and maybe theres something Dometic doesnt know. I'm not an engineer or bioligist, so my position is to relay information from the manufactuer to the viewer. Hope that makes sense, and thanks again. Glad to have you here! on a side note, have to tried any higher end filter systems to eliminate the hydrogen sulfide? We had it years ago in our house and installed a softener, which cleared things up completely.
Just get an activated charcoal filter, or a system that includes one. It will eliminate the sulfide not only in the water heater but also the cold lines.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Ross. Thanks for the reply. When we purchased our current travel trailer (used 06 Bigfoot 25RQ), it had really bad rotten egg smell from the hot water tank. I flushed it several times but it persisted. After doing some research I tried the aluminum/zinc anode solution and it cleaned it right up. I was impressed, which is why I wanted to mention it to you. To answer your question, no, I have not tried a higher end filter or multi stage filter system. It does make sense that a filter could also solve this issue because you can filter almost anything with the right filter. I did look in to them a while ago, and enjoy RV reviews on the subject. The filters on those systems can get expensive and it does take up space which is at a premium in a travel trailer. Using the anode is easy, inexpensive, and is a set & forget solution that suits me. Its probably not as good of a solution as a proper water filtration system, but it does work. For those with this issue, that's important to know. I can also respect that in your position of providing quality and reliable information to the masses, that contravening a manufacturers technical team could create waves, and if incorrect, could cause people issue. I am not aware of any scientific studies to back up my claims, so anyone reading this should understand that I am providing my opinion only, and everyone should do their own research. If I do find a reputable study on the subject, I would be happy to share it with you. Once again, I love your content and really appreciate your interest in my comment. I hope it helps to educate your audience on some alternative approaches to the issue.
that all makes sense, and i definitely want people to comment with their experiences... thats really the point of the channel, to share what we know. safe travels my friend!
If you’re using the low point drains to help get water out of the system before winterizing, don’t forget to run the water pump to get water out of the pump so it doesn’t freeze either
Contact connections: use Kopr-shield (Thomas & Betts) as it is an excellent conductor and keeps moisture out; save dielectric grease to apply to your battery terminals AFTER the connections are properly made. Neither of these replace proper contact prep and tightness. Do NOT over tighten contacts. Both lead and copper are relatively soft.
thanks for the info, ill have to check out that product... ive always been a believer of cleaning connections, keeping metal on metal and not using a conductive grease, but i also know in the real world connectors can twist/bend over time and not make the best connections, thus where a conductive grease would come in handy. thanks for the comment!
So true on the low point drains I learned that this year when I winterize our Rv. As soon as I turned faucet or flushed toilet or turned on shower I had water well before anti-freeze. Great video
just a littel extra to help, definitely not necessary as the plumbing "should" be able to hold that pressure indefinitely. i just know id rather be in the rv when a leak springs vs coming back to it after its soaked everything.
In the section about the plastic plug & the water heater. My suburban water heater came with a nylon plug. I did replace it with an anode rod. Please be careful & know which brand you have & act accordingly. Excellent videos and a wealth of information.
Another great video. Thank you for the education always. Have you done a video on dash cams for a motor home? We want to buy one but need advice. Thanks again
i havent, but i do have a haloview back up camera, and they have a dash cam that you can add to the system which I just installed. www.haloview.com/byte-tango-bt7-touch-1080p-wireless-backup-camera-system-with-touch-screen.html?acc=765 (system) and heres the camera: www.haloview.com/btc131-byte-tango-1080p-hd-wireless-dashcam.html?acc=765
Hi do you mind doing a video for newbies going across high bridges and traveling in high winds/bad weather? There are really no videos discussing this and as someone purchasing a travel trailer next year I am trying to prepare myself. I know there will be sway there am I over thinking things? lol
I obtained a pos 2018 Keystone Springdale used. Everything in it is beyond cheap & stuff falls apart so easy. There’s big gaps around most the window frames, cold air comes in from walls, the floor, etc. Where anything is a hook up inside, like sink, stove, etc., the holes in the floor where they come in are ridiculously big. The pipes under the camper it have rust all on them. I’m clueless as to maintenance, repairs, etc. It’s parked at a family member’s house & that’s what I stay in. It’s plugged into an outside outlet on the house, but the voltage is wrong I believe. I’m totally ignorant to literally anything to do with campers. I basically TH-cam videos & wing it. It’s not hooked up to water or sewer & has been parked for over 2 years. The fridge isn’t hooked up either. I know the tires are supposed to be rotated or something but there’s no way to move it. Also, it’s under an oak tree that squirrels, birds & rats gladly sh*t on. I think the rats were nesting in the rooftop air unit. They were scratching & chewing to get in. Luckily, we have a temporary fix on them. But I just want to gut it, open up the inside and get rid of the stove, oven, sink, fridge, gut the tiny bathroom, etc. the pull out couch has so many openings behind & under that dust accumulates & it’s constantly dirty under it. Under the main bed, there’s some kinda equipment for I think the hot water. Under the couch there’s some box thing for the carbon monoxide detector & whatever else. Under the table seat area there’s a big box for I think the gas heater which is also not hooked up, so I don’t know how to safely take it all out. A 5 gallon bucket camp toilet is what’s been used the whole time. Filled with stretch bags & pine pellets. I’m at a loss as to what to do, how to do it & where to start. I see many videos about rv/campers where every amenity is being utilized, but in this case, the only thing that can be used are the lights. That’s it. Sorry this was so long, but do you have any advice on what to do? I don’t have power tools, no help, Im living on disability & I need to figure out a next step. It’s getting cold at night so have to figure out a way to make a skirt for it or plywood or something. I’m so lost in this thing. Can you direct me where to go or learn? Thanks a million.
Hey Ross, I really appreciate your videos. Right to the point and super helpful. Question: i keep getting clogs in my sinks and toilet water inlets due to the anode rod wasting away. I know its sacrificial and designed to waste away, but the silt it creates clogs everything up, even though i change it yearly. Any tips for that?
when you do that, are you able to get alot of the calcium build up out of the tank? if youre still having problems, the only thing i could think of as an immediate fix would be to put a debris filter on the hot line coming out tank. it would probably need to be right on the tank, and accessible to clean out. something like this: amzn.to/3O5Eus3 or this:amzn.to/3Z88DML but i dont know how the second link i sent will hold up to hot water. however, im guessing since your getting clogs at the toilet, its not just the build up in the tank thats coming out of the hot side of the water heater though... seems to ge drifting back into the cold line somewhere... are you opening your low point drains alot?
I've heard you should never use your low point drains to drain your water heater due to sediments possibly getting into your lines. Always first drain the water heater by removing the anode rod first, then open the low point drains.
i dont disagree with you, however, some water heaters drain more water from the low points than they actual drain (or anode rod). for example, i put a borescope in my water heater drain plug after it was drained, then i opened my low point drains and you could see more water drain out from the low points. i have an atwood. for my set up, opening the low point drains will get more water out, and if i drain my tank first at the drain plug, the water that hasnt come out (lower than the drain plug) will inevitably drain through the low points. you make an excellent point, but i dont know if its avoidable. on the other hand, i dont have an anode rod, so the build up in water heater is always much less than you see with steel water heater tanks. its definitely a valid point, maybe even something i test in the future. pex is 1/2, i think it would need to be a large calcium deposit to get stuck, but it could get stuck in a 90 degree fitting too. my low points are right under the water heater too, so the chance of something getting stuck in the lines is much less than if it were located somewhere else. still a valid concern, something i might have to look into on a friends suburban water heater.
Great content. If I need to re-watch a section, it's not a 45 minute vid. How about De-ox-it? Is that just a different brand of contact cleaner like CRC? Should I use contact cleaner once a yr on the emergency brake away switch?
thanks my friend, glad you enjoyed. deoxit, another great product, ive never used it but from what i know its probably a very similar product to the CRC product. I've used a lot of CRC stuff over the years so I stick with what I know works, but i know a few knowledgeable people using deoxit as well. as far as relieving the pressure, not the end of the world if you dont, but keep in mind you can have quite a few gallons of water in the lines depending on how long your rig is. if a cold water leak starts it could even empty your water heater, but that would depend on a few things. just some things to consider, as always, my job is to provide information and options. thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
I don't think relieving the water pressure is worth doing for a day trip or even several days. We always turn off the pump or the water input when going out for even half a day. But we will have been in the trailer for days or maybe months at that point. The chances that there is a new leak in those few hours are pretty small. The amount of water that might leak is also pretty small. Just not worth it for me.
You can have a few gallons of water in the lines, add another 6, 10, or 12 gallons from your water heater. That would be like dumping (3) 5 gallon buckets of water in your rv. It takes 5 seconds to relieve the pressure. That’s worth it to me. I also want to increase my chances of being in the rv when a leak happens, before it soaks into everything while I’m away. Just my thoughts.
no worries my friend, i understand your reasoning... its all good, just wanted to point out that you could have 10-15 gallons leaking from just the water in the rv, and that its worth it to me to depressurize. we can all have different opinions and still have a beer together... in fact thats really what the world needs to understand right now. 🍻
Hi just wondering do you suggest using a surge protector on my trailer? If so what kind/brand. I have looked at some expensive ones and some cheap ones. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
not sure what he will recommend, but I read starting in 2026 all RVs made will require a UL rated EMS installed like Progessive brand. The manufacturer of our trailer (Escape made in Canada) already has adopted this as standard practice. One of the biggest pluses with the installed EMS is it cannot be stolen. Another is it is UL rated. We are considering adding an extra layer of protection with the Watchdog dog bone connection. This is if we end up camping a lot more and with places that look like the electricity hook ups look sketchy. Many recommend this if one does not already have an EMS installed.
hardwired is a great option as well. im a fan of the Hughes because of the shut off feature. i dont know if Progressive has that, and the Progressive start up time can be laggy.
im definitely not a chemist, but this is what i could find quickly on an online forum from someone who worked at Suburban (cant confirm thats fact): Even though an RV water heater tank is porcelain lined, you still need an anode rod because the porcelain lining can be damaged or compromised in areas, and the anode rod acts as a sacrificial metal that attracts corrosive elements in the water, protecting the underlying steel tank from rusting and extending its lifespan; essentially, the anode rod corrodes instead of the tank itself, even with the porcelain layer present. While porcelain lining provides good protection, small cracks or imperfections can still allow water to reach the steel tank, where the anode rod will then attract corrosion. hope that helps.
If you are turning off the water supply TURN OFF the water heater also. I would prefer to have a puddle of water from the lines than a toilet water valve giving way in the middle of the night again!
Hey bud, relieving 5 seconds of pressure is like filling up a 16 ounce glass. It’s also not going to drop the water heater level past the electric element. It’s got minimum 6 gallons in it (some are 10 - 12 gallons; you’re losing 16 ounces of a minimum 768 ounces. you’ll be ok. I appreciate the comment, however you're not going to lose enough water to burn out the element.
I disagree completely I live in Colorado and all I do is open all faucets open all drain lines and the hot water heater plug drive back to storage. Then pour 1/2 cup to all Pete traps and have never had a problem. Only issue is the water pump. But only once has the screen cover cracked. But pressurizing the system with the pump running briefly takes care of it.🤷🏻♂️ has worked for me.
✨ *PRODUCTS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO*
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*OTHER VIDEOS YOU MAY LIKE*
🎥 Exposed: Poor Build Quality th-cam.com/video/SFn2kkpb8i0/w-d-xo.html
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📺 See ALL our videos: www.youtube.com/@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS/videos
*5 RV Misconceptions People STILL Believe (#4 Makes Things WORSE!)* 5 misconceptions & myths discussed, and what you should be doing instead. Some of these RV mistakes can be costly. Today I'll show you why some widely accepted RV practices are wrong, and corrections you can make so you dont destroy your RV!
Chapters in this video:
0:00 Misconception 1: Water Pressure
1:24 Intro
1:32 Misconception 2: Waste Tanks
2:46 Misconception 3: Water Heaters
5:31 Get a REAL Mattress
6:15 Misconception 4: Electrical Connections
8:42 Misconception 5: Low Point Drains
#rv #rvlife #rvliving #rvlifestyle #rvtips #rvtravel
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No bullshit, no wasted time, no hating on other channels. Just helpful information.
Thanks Jerry, I do my best to make them as efficent as possible.
I've been bingeing your videos since I found your channel and I've been learning a ton. Thank you so much for covering so many great topics with practical easy to understand info.
glad the videos are helping!
I’ve been turning wrenches for close to 40 years now at a large automotive dealership here in Texas. I still encounter new wrenches smothering connectors in dielectric grease. The part about grease in this video is soooo true. I’m confused why people still don’t understand how to use it. Thanks for making this, hopefully some new mechanics see this.
you can of course add it on terminals, the instructions on the dielectric grease actually say to do this... i just dont recommend doing that, especially in applications where dirt, grass and small rocks is prone to stick to the grease.
I use the compressed air method to winterize my TT and then add RV antifreeze into the sink and shower P traps. The toilet bowl gets enough antifreeze to cover the bowl fkap. I fill the Black and Grey tanks with 4 gallons of a water-antifreezmix to prevent the tank crud from drying out.
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As a newbie to the RV world, I appreciate these types of videos. Thanks!
Ross, definitely enjoy and learn from your videos. Clear and succinct makes your content far better than other channels!
thanks Lisa, glad you enjoy them!
I really enjoy the content of this channel! To the point and easy to follow. No nonsense
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching!
This was an extremely helpful VID. The statements on the dialectic grease is particularly useful and using the contact cleaner regularly to keep things clean. One thing that I will be doing on my new RV which I will be getting in the next month or so will be to get a “dummy” plug for the 7-pin connector. It will keep the contacts clean and not exposed to the elements. A plastic bag with a twist tie would do the same thing but the dummy plug will be more robust.
ive been thinking about 3d printing a 7 pin connector cover and offering it to our viewers at a cost far less than what you can buy them for. the problem is they are already pretty cheap, but a good idea nonetheless!
You're cute....every time you say ,"If you're learning something from this video" I learn something from every video you put out. Thank you for all the trouble you go through to make these for us. your content is so good.
glad to help, thank you!
Thanks!
thanks for the donation Sid, it is very much appreciated!
Thanks for clarifying the proper use of dielectric grease
You're welcome, I think it's one of the most misunderstood things!
New RVer here, love your videos, they were essential in this first year.
When I was learning how to winterize the RV, the guy said to me “don’t store the battery on the ground, it will discharge it and it won’t charge back”. I said “ok, that doesn’t make sense, but thanks”. So, as far as I understand this WAS true a longtime ago, but now, batteries are plastic boxes, so it doesn’t matter. Have you heard of this?
this is an old time tale... it has something to do with concrete and old batteries... i dont remember all the details but it doesnt really hold true anymore. a trickle charger like this one will keep the battery charged over the winter (if you remove it). amzn.to/4g4Pm5m
Thanks for another informative video Ross! Keep up the good work!
You bet, glad you enjoyed it!
Ross, I respect your opinion and have been subscribed for a few years now, but I have to comment on the point about aluminum hot water tanks and the nylon plug (with a caveat). Yes, you should keep the nylon drain plug in place UNLESS you are having an issue with rotten egg smell in your hot water. If that's the case, you can remove the nylon nut and use an aluminum/zinc anode (NOT the magnesium anode!). You are also correct that aluminum tanks don't need an anode to prevent corrosion, but using an aluminum/zinc anode will help kill off the bacteria that causes the hydrogen sulfide gas (which produces that rotten egg smell). It will not harm your aluminum tank, but it does mean you will need to be more diligent about regularly cleaning your tank because the anode will break down and leave deposits on the bottom. You can also flush your tank or treat with vinegar or peroxide instead, but I like not having to worry about it, so I prefer to use an aluminum/zinc anode. So yes Ross, you are 100% correct on this one, but there are circumstances when using an anode in an aluminum tank is beneficial. You didn't mention that point so I thought I should flag this exception to your statement. Keep up the great content. Wishing you great success with your channel.
thanks for the comment... I asked the same question to a Dometic engineer and their response was that if you are getting a sulfer smell, you're not using the right filters. a well water iron filter will take of hydrogen sulfide and eliminate the problem before it is even entering your plumbing lines. a good filter system like the AR3 from Blu Technology should also prevent H.S. gas. Ive read that carbon filters and softeners will also help with this issue... ultimately, I think a proper filter system would be my first solution.
Another issue you run into is galvanic corrosion. This occurs when aluminum comes into contact with another metal in the presence of an electrolyte, such as moisture (water). This creates an electrical circuit that causes one metal to become weaker and the other to become stronger. You might be doing more harm than good to the inside of that tank. However, i dont think thats the case because zinc and aluminum are galvanically compatible. This would definitely be a problem with magnesium rods though. Again, I'm just reading definitions from university science departments, im definitely no expert on it.
I really do appreciate your input and I'm definitely not arguing with you, but if a dometic engineer says how to and how to not use his product, I'm not in a position where I think I can disagree with that without some serious science to back my argument. If it works for you, then thats great and maybe theres something Dometic doesnt know. I'm not an engineer or bioligist, so my position is to relay information from the manufactuer to the viewer. Hope that makes sense, and thanks again. Glad to have you here!
on a side note, have to tried any higher end filter systems to eliminate the hydrogen sulfide? We had it years ago in our house and installed a softener, which cleared things up completely.
Just get an activated charcoal filter, or a system that includes one. It will eliminate the sulfide not only in the water heater but also the cold lines.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS
Ross. Thanks for the reply. When we purchased our current travel trailer (used 06 Bigfoot 25RQ), it had really bad rotten egg smell from the hot water tank. I flushed it several times but it persisted. After doing some research I tried the aluminum/zinc anode solution and it cleaned it right up. I was impressed, which is why I wanted to mention it to you.
To answer your question, no, I have not tried a higher end filter or multi stage filter system. It does make sense that a filter could also solve this issue because you can filter almost anything with the right filter. I did look in to them a while ago, and enjoy RV reviews on the subject. The filters on those systems can get expensive and it does take up space which is at a premium in a travel trailer. Using the anode is easy, inexpensive, and is a set & forget solution that suits me.
Its probably not as good of a solution as a proper water filtration system, but it does work. For those with this issue, that's important to know.
I can also respect that in your position of providing quality and reliable information to the masses, that contravening a manufacturers technical team could create waves, and if incorrect, could cause people issue. I am not aware of any scientific studies to back up my claims, so anyone reading this should understand that I am providing my opinion only, and everyone should do their own research. If I do find a reputable study on the subject, I would be happy to share it with you.
Once again, I love your content and really appreciate your interest in my comment. I hope it helps to educate your audience on some alternative approaches to the issue.
that all makes sense, and i definitely want people to comment with their experiences... thats really the point of the channel, to share what we know. safe travels my friend!
If you’re using the low point drains to help get water out of the system before winterizing, don’t forget to run the water pump to get water out of the pump so it doesn’t freeze either
definitely, however if youre introducing antifreeze throught the pump that will push out all the water in the pump.
Thanks for sharing. Always great videos!
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
Great Information! Thanks for sharing!
thank you, my pleasure
If I see one more Facebook comment about the nylon plug it will be too soon. I’m sending them to this video. Thanks for confirming Ross.
glad to help
Contact connections: use Kopr-shield (Thomas & Betts) as it is an excellent conductor and keeps moisture out; save dielectric grease to apply to your battery terminals AFTER the connections are properly made. Neither of these replace proper contact prep and tightness. Do NOT over tighten contacts. Both lead and copper are relatively soft.
thanks for the info, ill have to check out that product... ive always been a believer of cleaning connections, keeping metal on metal and not using a conductive grease, but i also know in the real world connectors can twist/bend over time and not make the best connections, thus where a conductive grease would come in handy. thanks for the comment!
Always a good mix of info and efficiency.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your videos, no wasting time, and always focused on true RV information!
I appreciate it. I try to get to the point as quickly as I can.
So true on the low point drains I learned that this year when I winterize our Rv. As soon as I turned faucet or flushed toilet or turned on shower I had water well before anti-freeze. Great video
Exactly!
Great tips as always, keep up the awesome job
thanks Jeremy
Glad I watched. I had been cutting the water off at the sourse when away for a period of time. Will now drain the sink to cut the pressure. Thanks.
just a littel extra to help, definitely not necessary as the plumbing "should" be able to hold that pressure indefinitely. i just know id rather be in the rv when a leak springs vs coming back to it after its soaked everything.
Thank you. Great info
you bet!
Great tips Ross thanks 😊
thank you Corey!
One of the main reasons I moved my batteries inside the passthrough and switched to a Smart Plug power system.
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In the section about the plastic plug & the water heater. My suburban water heater came with a nylon plug. I did replace it with an anode rod. Please be careful & know which brand you have & act accordingly. Excellent videos and a wealth of information.
glad you noticed it and switched it... that could have been bad for your tank. Thanks for the comment my friend.
Really enjoy your channel ❤
Thanks for watching, and glad to help!
Best place I have found to use dialect grease is on exposed ground connections after they have been connected.
good tip!
Good content and well presented as always!
Thanks my friend, glad you enjoyed it!
Well presented Ross!
thanks Joshua
I live in my RV and tonight it's cold, for windows I don't use I put foam board also taped off. Trying to use a very small heater.
Sounds like you're on the right track!
Thanks for another informative video.
you bet!
I learn something in every one of your videos! Thanks!
glad to help!
Another great video. Thank you for the education always. Have you done a video on dash cams for a motor home? We want to buy one but need advice. Thanks again
i havent, but i do have a haloview back up camera, and they have a dash cam that you can add to the system which I just installed. www.haloview.com/byte-tango-bt7-touch-1080p-wireless-backup-camera-system-with-touch-screen.html?acc=765 (system)
and heres the camera: www.haloview.com/btc131-byte-tango-1080p-hd-wireless-dashcam.html?acc=765
Absolutely one of the best done videos.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent 💯 tks Ross!
thanks again Daniel!
Ur videos r awesome bro!!!
Thanks man, glad you dig ‘em!
Great tips. I wasn’t aware of #1. Thanks!
Thanks my friend, glad I could help.
Ross -- You were being nice to us RV dummies -- "only" five misconceptions in this episode. :-) Lou from Georgia. Thank you!
haha, i wouldnt say your a dummy, theres still plenty of things i dont know yet too, i just share what i do know. thanks for always stopping by Lou!
Hi do you mind doing a video for newbies going across high bridges and traveling in high winds/bad weather? There are really no videos discussing this and as someone purchasing a travel trailer next year I am trying to prepare myself. I know there will be sway there am I over thinking things? lol
ill see what i can come up with for ya!
I obtained a pos 2018 Keystone Springdale used. Everything in it is beyond cheap & stuff falls apart so easy. There’s big gaps around most the window frames, cold air comes in from walls, the floor, etc. Where anything is a hook up inside, like sink, stove, etc., the holes in the floor where they come in are ridiculously big. The pipes under the camper it have rust all on them.
I’m clueless as to maintenance, repairs, etc.
It’s parked at a family member’s house & that’s what I stay in.
It’s plugged into an outside outlet on the house, but the voltage is wrong I believe.
I’m totally ignorant to literally anything to do with campers. I basically TH-cam videos & wing it.
It’s not hooked up to water or sewer & has been parked for over 2 years. The fridge isn’t hooked up either. I know the tires are supposed to be rotated or something but there’s no way to move it. Also, it’s under an oak tree that squirrels, birds & rats gladly sh*t on. I think the rats were nesting in the rooftop air unit. They were scratching & chewing to get in. Luckily, we have a temporary fix on them. But I just want to gut it, open up the inside and get rid of the stove, oven, sink, fridge, gut the tiny bathroom, etc.
the pull out couch has so many openings behind & under that dust accumulates & it’s constantly dirty under it.
Under the main bed, there’s some kinda equipment for I think the hot water. Under the couch there’s some box thing for the carbon monoxide detector & whatever else. Under the table seat area there’s a big box for I think the gas heater which is also not hooked up, so I don’t know how to safely take it all out.
A 5 gallon bucket camp toilet is what’s been used the whole time. Filled with stretch bags & pine pellets. I’m at a loss as to what to do, how to do it & where to start. I see many videos about rv/campers where every amenity is being utilized, but in this case, the only thing that can be used are the lights. That’s it.
Sorry this was so long, but do you have any advice on what to do?
I don’t have power tools, no help, Im living on disability & I need to figure out a next step. It’s getting cold at night so have to figure out a way to make a skirt for it or plywood or something. I’m so lost in this thing. Can you direct me where to go or learn?
Thanks a million.
That’s a lot to take on! id start by watching videos from trusted channels on how to prep for winter.
Another advantage of the nylon plug is it avoids galvanic corrosion. A metal plug could become very difficult to remove if that occurs.
very true, thanks for the comment Dave!
I like your videos always very helpful..thank you
Glad to hear that
Hey Ross, I really appreciate your videos. Right to the point and super helpful.
Question: i keep getting clogs in my sinks and toilet water inlets due to the anode rod wasting away. I know its sacrificial and designed to waste away, but the silt it creates clogs everything up, even though i change it yearly. Any tips for that?
are you rinsing and flushing your water heater each year?
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS yes. I am rinsing with a water wand. I'm not sure if that counts as flushing it. Is there something else I should be doing?
when you do that, are you able to get alot of the calcium build up out of the tank? if youre still having problems, the only thing i could think of as an immediate fix would be to put a debris filter on the hot line coming out tank. it would probably need to be right on the tank, and accessible to clean out. something like this: amzn.to/3O5Eus3
or this:amzn.to/3Z88DML but i dont know how the second link i sent will hold up to hot water. however, im guessing since your getting clogs at the toilet, its not just the build up in the tank thats coming out of the hot side of the water heater though... seems to ge drifting back into the cold line somewhere... are you opening your low point drains alot?
Thank you for all your insight
Happy to help!
I've heard you should never use your low point drains to drain your water heater due to sediments possibly getting into your lines. Always first drain the water heater by removing the anode rod first, then open the low point drains.
i dont disagree with you, however, some water heaters drain more water from the low points than they actual drain (or anode rod). for example, i put a borescope in my water heater drain plug after it was drained, then i opened my low point drains and you could see more water drain out from the low points. i have an atwood. for my set up, opening the low point drains will get more water out, and if i drain my tank first at the drain plug, the water that hasnt come out (lower than the drain plug) will inevitably drain through the low points. you make an excellent point, but i dont know if its avoidable. on the other hand, i dont have an anode rod, so the build up in water heater is always much less than you see with steel water heater tanks. its definitely a valid point, maybe even something i test in the future. pex is 1/2, i think it would need to be a large calcium deposit to get stuck, but it could get stuck in a 90 degree fitting too. my low points are right under the water heater too, so the chance of something getting stuck in the lines is much less than if it were located somewhere else. still a valid concern, something i might have to look into on a friends suburban water heater.
Great content. If I need to re-watch a section, it's not a 45 minute vid. How about De-ox-it? Is that just a different brand of contact cleaner like CRC? Should I use contact cleaner once a yr on the emergency brake away switch?
thanks my friend, glad you enjoyed. deoxit, another great product, ive never used it but from what i know its probably a very similar product to the CRC product. I've used a lot of CRC stuff over the years so I stick with what I know works, but i know a few knowledgeable people using deoxit as well. as far as relieving the pressure, not the end of the world if you dont, but keep in mind you can have quite a few gallons of water in the lines depending on how long your rig is. if a cold water leak starts it could even empty your water heater, but that would depend on a few things. just some things to consider, as always, my job is to provide information and options. thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
I don't think relieving the water pressure is worth doing for a day trip or even several days.
We always turn off the pump or the water input when going out for even half a day. But we will have been in the trailer for days or maybe months at that point. The chances that there is a new leak in those few hours are pretty small. The amount of water that might leak is also pretty small. Just not worth it for me.
You can have a few gallons of water in the lines, add another 6, 10, or 12 gallons from your water heater. That would be like dumping (3) 5 gallon buckets of water in your rv. It takes 5 seconds to relieve the pressure. That’s worth it to me. I also want to increase my chances of being in the rv when a leak happens, before it soaks into everything while I’m away. Just my thoughts.
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS your logic has some holes. We all make our own choices, so I thought to add some balance.
no worries my friend, i understand your reasoning... its all good, just wanted to point out that you could have 10-15 gallons leaking from just the water in the rv, and that its worth it to me to depressurize. we can all have different opinions and still have a beer together... in fact thats really what the world needs to understand right now. 🍻
Hi just wondering do you suggest using a surge protector on my trailer? If so what kind/brand. I have looked at some expensive ones and some cheap ones. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
not sure what he will recommend, but I read starting in 2026 all RVs made will require a UL rated EMS installed like Progessive brand. The manufacturer of our trailer (Escape made in Canada) already has adopted this as standard practice. One of the biggest pluses with the installed EMS is it cannot be stolen. Another is it is UL rated.
We are considering adding an extra layer of protection with the Watchdog dog bone connection. This is if we end up camping a lot more and with places that look like the electricity hook ups look sketchy. Many recommend this if one does not already have an EMS installed.
I would only recommend Hughes Power Watchdog. 50 amp rv: amzn.to/3YMbTgi 30 amp rv: amzn.to/48K8vHo
hardwired is a great option as well. im a fan of the Hughes because of the shut off feature. i dont know if Progressive has that, and the Progressive start up time can be laggy.
Your thoughts on deoxit? Also, conductive grease?
never used deoxit but know people who do, its a good product. never used conductive grease for anything.
Great video !!
thanks Jonathan
Great video brother
thanks again my man!
Excellent video
thanks my friend
Awesome channel for info.
Thanks my friend, glad you’re finding the content helpful!
Good information
Thanks Tim, good to see you again.
How often should an anode rod be changed out ?
once a year is usually more than enough, even for full timers. twice a year is usually overkill.
@ thanks for your reply!
I assume that the porcelain liner in a steel tank does not corrode.
If that's true then why is the anode necessary?
im definitely not a chemist, but this is what i could find quickly on an online forum from someone who worked at Suburban (cant confirm thats fact):
Even though an RV water heater tank is porcelain lined, you still need an anode rod because the porcelain lining can be damaged or compromised in areas, and the anode rod acts as a sacrificial metal that attracts corrosive elements in the water, protecting the underlying steel tank from rusting and extending its lifespan; essentially, the anode rod corrodes instead of the tank itself, even with the porcelain layer present. While porcelain lining provides good protection, small cracks or imperfections can still allow water to reach the steel tank, where the anode rod will then attract corrosion.
hope that helps.
Always learn something
good to know the videos are helping... im always learning things too, i guess thats good for my line of work right? 🤣
If you are turning off the water supply TURN OFF the water heater also. I would prefer to have a puddle of water from the lines than a toilet water valve giving way in the middle of the night again!
What does the water heater have to do with the toilet?
I’ve seen the Facebook posts about the plastic plug blowing out. Thanks for clarifying with Atwood.
Glad to clear that up for you, I got a lot of questions about it.
Ok now you’re going to burn out your water heater because of lack of water in it. Turn it off also!
Hey bud, relieving 5 seconds of pressure is like filling up a 16 ounce glass. It’s also not going to drop the water heater level past the electric element. It’s got minimum 6 gallons in it (some are 10 - 12 gallons; you’re losing 16 ounces of a minimum 768 ounces. you’ll be ok. I appreciate the comment, however you're not going to lose enough water to burn out the element.
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Why would I pay you to watch your videos?????? I am shocked that you would even say that!!!!!
Like I said in the video, we dont have a TH-cam membership fee. Most channels do. You can google “TH-cam channel membership” if you want to know more.
I disagree completely I live in Colorado and all I do is open all faucets open all drain lines and the hot water heater plug drive back to storage. Then pour 1/2 cup to all Pete traps and have never had a problem. Only issue is the water pump. But only once has the screen cover cracked. But pressurizing the system with the pump running briefly takes care of it.🤷🏻♂️ has worked for me.
It’s funny, you say you disagree, but then mention your filter cap cracked. Maybe that’s a sign that’s it’s not working? 😂
amzn.to/48Q2ol4
Great video 👍
hope it helped!