1.5V powered Glade Wisp ultrasonic oil atomizer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- A look at a surprisingly sophisticated air freshener that emits tiny puffs of aromatic oil to mask smells or add an aroma to your environment.
This unit is notable for using a single AA cell to power a tiny ultrasonic disk that pulses every 8 seconds to atomise oil that is supplied via a wick. It does this 24/7, but still gives very good battery life.
The blob IC seems to be an ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuit that may have three separate RC oscillators for programmable timing, plus some logic for allowing time delays to be set.
There's a MOSFET and transformer based piezo drive circuit for boosting the voltage up, but also a separate trickle charged reservoir capacitor to allow high current pulses without affecting the rest of the circuitry or risking component damage if the circuit latches up.
Interestingly, I did manage to latch it up with the MOSFET jammed on during power cycling. Normally the circuit just draws a few milliamps to recharge after each pulse, but when locked up it drew about 16mA. Maybe that's why the product was discontinued. That and the relatively high manufacturing cost versus simpler mains powered aroma units.
Some experiments with supply voltage showed the unit was more likely to latch up when initially powered with a lower voltage, but once it's running the unit will keep working until the AA cell gets down to less than 0.6V.
Subsequent tests hint that the two separate resistors may set the time-base and the aroma burst duration, with the chain of four resistors probably allowing fine tuning of the piezo drive frequency.
The three capacitors will probably be the matching ones for each of those three timing circuits.
If that is the case then it possibly makes this circuit hackable for driving alternative atomiser disks.
It's interesting to note that there does seem to be a collectors market for air freshener units, in the same way people collect lights, fans, vacuums and many other electrical items.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random air fresheners for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.c...
This also keeps the channel independent of TH-cam's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
In the late 1990s I worked at the company that developed those and other household air fresheners. Almost every Friday afternoon the fragrance group had six to ten new scents to test. For smell testing the new combinations and filling out a form you received a treat, usually a candy bar. There was always one odorless sample, probably water, to weed out the people who were just filling out the form without actually sniffing the samples. It happened in a special room that was ventilated in such a way that the odors did not remain and mingle. Most times it seemed that half the company stopped by to participate.
Weird that they went from something this small and ingenious to the later large units with a motor and large spray can. It's like reversed evolution.
maybe the piezo device didnt last long, or it got caked up with muck?
Remember when Dow chemical quietly changed the chemicals in Saran wrap? Turns out polyvinylidene chloride was quite toxic (just like Teflon) and they switched to polyethylene without a peep until customers noticed and started complaining. Dow claims it was about cost... Turns out aerosolized chemicals aren't great to inhale either, there's literally a warning on them not to breath them. Essential oils are labeled "not for human consumption" yet they aerosolize them and sell the garbage in combo packs with the units and oils.
@@mattgayda2840water vapor is an aerosolized chemical. Every time you smell anything you're smelling aerosolized chemicals. The compounds and doses are probably the more salient and meaningful thing to investigate rather than "chemicals"
@@mattgayda2840 Teflon isn't toxic at all. In fact, it's so inert that it is used for prosthetic blood vessels.
@@kpanic23 In general use it shouldn't degrade as it resists corrosive chemicals very well It will begin to decompose thermally above 260C though, fortunately most oils don't get that hot. PFOA is a carcinoge that used to be used to manufacture PTFE, get rid of any teflon cookware produced pre-2013.
At my last job , in the '90s, they had two styles of deodorizers in the restrooms and waiting rooms. One style had two D cells, and a timer circuit that controlled a motor that set off an aerosol can of scent in short bursts.
The other one has scent crystals and a single D battery in a plastic cartridge. It ran a very low current consumption motor continuously for a couple weeks.
They were changed every two weeks ( the scent crystals lost their scent), but the battery still had plenty of life left in it ( Eveready Energizers). I salvaged them, and informal tests showed they lasted about as long as new ones. I had loads of these batteries , and gave them away to coworkers and homeless people that hung around the place...as long as you didn't mind cherry or apple scented Eveready Energizers...
Weirdly, I think my favourite part of this was how mind blowing it was to find out the middle pin on that selector isn't connected. It's an utterly genius way to save a pin on a micro controller (or ASIC, in this instance).
Reminds me of that meme - "The missile knows where it is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't."
Also means the most likely component to fail doesn't break things when it does. The usual "switch is open circuit" means you get medium. Of course when that big cap goes it's game over, but it's a 6V cap seeing 3.3V and there's nothing hot near it so it should be fine.
It’s not a new idea. Saving a pin actually saves a fair amount of money. Hence this technique has been used for many years in various electronic systems.
Interesting device, especially the 1v5 - 3v3 step up circuitry.
Also enjoyed the slightly more in-depth waveform prints of whats going on at different stages of the circuit.
😊
It's always nice to see waveforms.
Not seen you about for a while. Have you stopped riding the rat bike?
Wondering if you powered it with 3.3v instead of 1.5. How it change it's proformens
@@MartinBalle7 If you mean two cells in series instead of a single AA, it will get at best 3.2V just for a short time. The circuit needs some regulator.
Pretty sure the ASIC has a brown out detector feature as well, like any microcontroler.
I saw that little puff coming out of its hole. "Then Try It With Other Random Liquids" 02:13 - Suitably unspecified, you can only imagine what mischief he will engage in. As always, Clive, your circuit analysis provides valuable insights for those beginning in electronics, that is normally only found in college courses. Bloody marvellous - Cheers.
Imported from America? How exotic!
4:53 wow that’s kind of how I thought it might work but never saw it in such detail because I never tore it down. I love your teardowns! So clear.
Kind of like re-reading a book you read when you were a wee bit younger. Now you appreciate it in new ways❤
My grandma had one of these back in the 2000's. She described the little puffs of fragrance as "angel's farts"
Fantastic circuit and use of a single AA. My electronic circuit design career was set back by many years by not being able to afford dry cells to power them through testing.
I had a 12V model train supply but that was too much and too noisy for the UK BC range of transistors I could get at the time. PP3 9V batteries that most kits used would be a week of pocket money!
I had a similar problem, so I would salvage batteries when they got replaced. That meant that most of my circuit design was done using nearly dead batteries. Which was probably a good thing, because I still managed to melt wires from time to time.
@@kittenisageek- I had four D size NiCad cells. They were great fun for getting thin copper wire hot, which of course then burned and melted 😂
That looks like some quality work. And through-hole discrete components! Wow
Yep but sadly they still used a blob chip wich is dissapointing
@@309electronics5 there's really no better way to do it when you want to build 10 million of a product with your custom ASIC inside. The price of that nice packaging that we're used to on ICs adds up.
Piezoelectric technology is pure magic to me. I really need to dive deeper into researching it. Silly enough, my interest started with taking the piezoelectric striking mechanism out of "jet flame" lighters. The little shock it gives off is addictive 😅
Also...imagine if you could whoofle with this 🔥
A pioneer in the electrical properties of crystals was Pierre Curie. Marie Curie's husband.
Imagine if you could find an American product that didn't use a blob. Argh!
when i was a child we allways used to take apart lighters that where on the ground to shock other classmates.
+1 for the metal tables we had in class xD
@@NinoJoel I used the chairs, these had a metal frame and two flat/flush screws that held the plywood seat in place.. this screw allowed a shock directly to the butt of your classmate - who was then reminded by the teacher to "sit still" hehe
@@alnicospeaker haha nice
thanks for the oscilloscope renderings! So nice to see how the circuit 'behaves' in the real word! very informative! very entertaining! well liked video!
The scope screen shots help me a lot. Visuals are good for someone like me so I can "see" what is happening. Thank You, Clive!
I used one of those in a sculpture long time ago. I had an igniter that would light a puff of 99% grain alcohol. It was fun.
Thanks got the oscilloscope shots, really helps bring the circuit to life!
love the scope printouts ❤️, the deepest glimpse into the inner workings of mundane everyday items .. just lovely.
i have always wondered how this worked, thanks for that information!
Somehow I got a kick out of "I had to import this from America" since, of course, I live there (San Diego.. :) Then again, I'm easily amused.
Second, your obvious enjoyment of discovering (re-discovering?) the innards of this is infectious and is one of the several reasons so many folks like your channel. Thank you!
Third, what did you mean by older tech in batteries not leaking? I know I've had a ton of batteries of various brands leak and have been very surprised, and frustrated by it. I'm old enough to remember ads on packages saying things like "never leak" or similar. I would think newer materials/seals would be better, not worse at containing the obviously corrosive fluids. (Not necessarily NiCd as in old PC type clock setups, they were notorious for leaking and ruining circuits).
The older cells were engineered to prevent internal pressure build up by recombining liberated gas. They banned some of the chemicals and newer formulas have proven to less effective. With very low current draw or even in packaging they can overpressure and vent electrolyte.
Every once in a while I'll run across a device or toy that was put in storage with the batteries still installed. Several have leaked but the REALLY old stuff doesn't seem to as much. Also some have been in storage since before we left Florida so they've doubtless been subjected to temps over 100F and maybe as much as 120F.
It's worth mentioning that very old alkaline batteries were formulated differently. When the MythBusters were testing whether liquid nitrogen would have disarmed the battery in an explosion trap, it turns out that modern (2010s at the time) batteries wouldn't be affected, but batteries using a 1980s formulation (the movie was from the 80s) were temporarily defused by the liquid nitrogen long enough for the would-be victim to escape the room. My guess as to how they got a working 1980s formula battery in the 2010s would be obtaining a very cheap alkaline battery. The episode specifically meant alkaline batteries for the record. I'm not too sure what a zinc-carbon battery would do over time, or whether their corrosion is worse. However, that technology has been around for many decades. In 1951, Popular Science wrote a tip saying that one should dispose of non-working flashlight batteries in a fireplace to mitigate soot. In those days, batteries were zinc-carbon and they often weren't the "cans" used nowadays, in fact, some were basically mostly elemental zinc and elemental carbon, and often in a sort of special "cardboard". Such batteries are depicted in Back To The Future's sequels as a large battery dissimilar to even 1980s batteries that is taped to the back of the walkie-talkie and wired to it.
Note that the smaller cell sizes were much less common in the 1950s. Anyways, these batteries that weren't the type of cans that modern batteries are made of and which featured more primitive contents compared to modern zine and alkaline batteries weren't as dangerous to burn. However, burning zinc in general is not a good idea. In styropyro's 4th video on the 1933 (and later) Chemical Formulary books, one of the recipes involved produces zinc chloride fumes as a form of fog, which styropyro outright says is not great to inhale. The 90yo book puts zinc chloride under the section detailing stuff like chlorine gas and similar toxic gases used in 1915, albeit lower-tier. Styropyro says that the zinc chloride fumes ARE not as lower-tier as the book says. So the 1950s advice of burning zinc-carbon batteries was not as safe as Popular Science's 1951 issue claimed. Having said that, burning more modern zinc-carbon batteries or alkaline batteries (or any batteries at all) is an extremely terrible idea, because it releases many more chemicals than just zinc and carbon derivatives (even modern zinc-carbon batteries are more complex than older ones), has a risk of exploding, and is very harmful to the environment. Burning cadmium batteries, lead-acid batteries, or mercury button and coin cell batteries releases stuff that is most definitely highly toxic. Nickel metal is an allergen in jewelry, so burning nickel metal hydride batteries could have very tragic repercussions if anyone near the fumes has a nickel allergy. Lithium-polymer batteries when burned essentially burn that polymer inside which is effectively like burning plastic. Not the best thing to breathe in. Some batteries release hydrogen gas when damaged, especially Lithium batteries. Basically: don't burn batteries.
As far as battery formulations, yes, older batteries had different formulations, some of which don't have as much potential to destroy what they are left too long in. If a zinc-carbon battery was formulated closer to elemental zinc and carbon, depending on what metal the terminals of the battery and its device are, and if the battery is not 1950s cardboard yet is also not a pressurized container packed with more-liquid contents, it may not be as destructive if left in a device for too long. I still recommend after removing old batteries to clean the terminals even if they appear undamaged, because even residue that isn't obvious can be bad.
Also, when it comes to alkaline battery residue, I can actually say that a lot of my grandparents' devices that corroded with alkaline batteries from the mid 1980s to the end of the 1990s corroded with green corrosion, but the alkaline batteries that corrode in modern times leave white corrosion. 2005 may have been the tail end of batteries that corrode green. Quite a few American battery brands even back in the olden days had a ten year shelf life if unused. If the battery had that date as 2005, then 1995 would have been the manufacturing date of the battery, which would fit with the observed timeline of an alkaline battery that would corrode differently from modern alkaline batteries in my experience. Also, green corrosion could also be a result of corrosion going on long enough to REALLY corrode and oxidize the contacts. Or if there is copper involved (zinc and copper batteries that use acidic electrolytes are not uncommon), the green color could be oxidized and/or corroded copper and/or copper derivatives.
So ultimately, the batteries being from the right time period with the right formulation is what saved the air freshener. Batteries HAVE changed since then. Some only take 2-3 years in a remote to corrode. I advise checking all your devices for corroded batteries. Oh, and something I use to clean corrosion is vinegar on a cotton swab when dealing with alkaline battery leakage to neutralize the alkalinity in the cleaning process. As for zinc-carbon battery corrosion, given that zinc-copper batteries using lemon juice are science demos (in an older episode of MythBusters, namely the Baghdad Battery episode, lemon juice with iron and copper can generate power too, but less so), the vinegar option alone may not fully get things out, so you'd also want to use isopropanol or ethanol. I'd recommend not using acetone due to its potential to dissolve plastic. Additionally, oxidizers like hydrogen peroxide or chlorine bleach would probably do more harm than good. As for nickel metal hydride and Lithium batteries, vinegar again is an unknown. For lead-acid batteries, you'd probably want to use a solution of baking soda rather than vinegar as an interim measure before calling in someone able to decontaminate lead. Now where it gets messy is when the leakage is from mercury button-cell or mercury coin cell batteries, as well as Nickel-Cadmium batteries. Mercury, lead, and cadmium are all highly poisonous, and sulfuric acid is too. If you're dealing with leakage of these types of batteries, call in people who clean up poisonous waste professionally. Also, no matter what battery messes you clean up, wear gloves and eye protection at the bare minimum. You don't want any of what's in a battery on you or in you.
TL;DR: old batteries corrode differently
@@stgigamovement Any of the phosphoric acid based household cleaners (CLR, Lime Away, Barkeep's Friend, etc.) remove alkaline battery corrosion very nicely. It's a relatively mild acid that won't do anything to plastic and isn't real aggressive to metals. It just removes the crud and eats just a tiny bit of metal giving it a "chem polish". For fun drop a manky penny in some CLR.
@@sootikins CLR would be handy on stuff that is badly corroded but still functional. It is, after all, meant to remove rust. Just don't get it on your skin.
The 220 uH is to null out the peizo's series reactance. The peizo's radiation resistance which does the actual work is relatively low by comparison. A few ohms. The radiation resistance translates to transmitted acoustic energy. There is some electrical resistive resistance (heat) but it's small.
Piezo driving frequency would be varied by "system clock speed" not by division in software. The peizo has a narrow operating bandwidth because of its high ratio impedance / radiation resistance. So maybe during manufacturing comp values are tweaked.
Possibly, maybe, the asic auto-tweaks frequency by switching in/out capacitors, since it can tell how much power is transmitted by looking at dv/dt of the power rail. Sensor catflaps do similar a auto-detect of collar tag frequency
I've always been fascinated at how much bang you can get out of 1.5v dc aa battery powered devices!
As the final type of liquid test's adding petrol would be amusing. I like the smell of petrol but I dont think I would want the smell in my house 24/7. Interesting little thing, the board has more components than I thought it was going to. Nice video 2x👍
Good for knocking off the general IQ!
This opens the door to a series of shorts "Will it puff?" with different liquids (that may or may not be exposed to a source of ignition). Whiskey puffs for Ralphy?
Magic dragon machine
For extra atmosphere-enhancing power, stick the electrode from an air ionizer directly in front of the outlet of the aromanator.
Interesting video
I used one of those air freshener's
I stopped using it
As a slight oil film coats everything close to the unit
Then the dust clings to the oil film
Smells nice , but you end up with dirty and oily
Airwick had a aroma unit called the Freshmatic Odor Detect. It had a dedicated ship to sense the odor. Vintage aroma units are a HUGE rabbit hole one can dive in...
I got one of those. I think it was probably a VOC sensor!
This is definitely something that could be "improved" to have a fully automatic whoofle for streaming events :)
Time for some naughty Ministry madness with this device!
Nice energy-efficient design. Could get a Hackaday prize in the recent low power contest :)
Very neat, these older electronic products are interesting to tinker with and learn electronics.
Would be great for home essential oils!
Great Video!
They would need diluted a lot with isopropanol to atomise properly.
its alot nicer than those motor driven spray cans they used to sell... you are quietly sitting there and then all of a sudden you hear this motor wine and a double click and then the spurt of pressurized "smell good" gets released, plus the whole unit was the size of a standard can of spray paint....
It's a very complex device for what it does. Lots of design and manufacturing effort went into it. Made in enormous quantities, I'm sure with economies of scale the profits were huge. And what more worthy goal than filling houses with VOC's and aromatic chemicals? 8^) I don't suggest doing a "will it carbonate?" video on the liquid though....Cheers!
I hope one day they're held liable in a court of law for all those VOCs sold as "Fresh"
I had one of those. Years ago. It was both intriguing and a little scary
I wanna see that piezo under high-speed camera with a macro lens. Hell, I'm sure your workspace is absolutely chock full of neat little mechanisms that could do with some super-slowmo footage for demonstration purposes.
I used to work in the manufacturing of nebulizer discs, similar to the ones in your vid. If you have any questions I can try to answer :)
Main question is whether the blank stainless disks are etched to get such fine holes.
@@bigclivedotcom I wrote a long reply to your question, but somehow youtube deleted it. I will try again tomorrow!
@@Auhydride When leaving long replies to anything I try to remember to highlight and save the text before posting it in case it blips.
Much better than the crap plug-in atomizers we have today. Those things are a right fire hazard, straight out of the box.
But so cheap and simple.
Please add more oscilloscope pics if possible. Seeing waveforms are very helpful. Thanks
NOOOOOOOOOOOOO. I rather see the waveform on a tablet (screenshot). Stop wasting paper and ink. Please!
Very interesting! Far more complex than I would have assumed.
Could you perhaps change the jumper settings while monitoring the output? You could thereby confirm or disprove your assumption about them being for tuning the frequency. Likewise adding/removing capacitors to those connecting the ASIC to ground could give a clue as to function.
I tried external resistors. The two individual resistors affected general delay timing and burst timing. The four tunable resistors seemed to affect the atomiser.
Interesting. An old friend of mine from high school designed the circuit for the glade wall-plug units. I will have to inquire if he had a hand in this one.
That could help explain what is under the blob.
I'm just replying on the off chance you get your answer and decide to post it, I'll get an alert 😁 Might be interesting if there's some sort of story he'll share.
I’m curious as well
I'm curious as well!
I love the center switch choice open circuit. It shows pure design genius, as it changes the most likely future failure mode into a "keep running" at the midpoint of smell strength.
Big Clive, the best smelling You Tube poster
Put some of that oil in with the Whoofle juice. 👍🔥
Jesus Clive--that is nearly fifty quids-worth there!
13:57 yeah my wisp atomizer went out probably in 2 years because of a buildup of gunk I think. 2003-2005 was the timeframe I used mine.
I think the tiny atomiser disk holes were possibly prone to blocking with dust and goo. I sprayed this one with isopropanol to clean it.
Do you remember the LM3909 LED flasher that could drive an LED with only 1.5V? Those were the days.
Still available online at great expense.
Clive thinks he was misusing and abusing Electronics?
He is probably right LOL but that's why we love him.
I almost took a job in the factory that made these around 2002 and the thing that put me off was the enormous mountain of field returns that they couldn't hide
That's not just any atomizer.... it's the batteriser optimizer atomizer!
I'm wondering if the inductor in series with the piezo is forming a tuned circuit. The piezo might be ringing at a frequency even higher than the drive pulses. The resonance would also mean a larger voltage across the piezo.
Murrica 🤠🇺🇸
I understand that places like Dizney World, use a system like this to make the smells around the park. A common one is cinnamon buns around the bakeries. Maybe they also use this type thing to run off the mosquitoes that FL is famous for.
Nice to see you did exactly what I did when I first saw this product. I had to open it 😂.
If you make a negative of your scope screen shots, it will save you a lot of black ink!
That's a good idea. I do use a bulk ink system though.
Set the little puffs of oil on fire 🔥 🤪
I love the smell of petro-chemicals in the morning!
I remember my first overpriced miniature LED flashlight that ran off one AAA cell and of course had to bump up the voltage to run the single somewhat powerful white LED. I paid a lot for that compactness! I think the tiny flashlight was over US$35
That is definitely overpriced, i have a klein rechargeable flashlight that was only cad$29 and has a very good battery life and is very powerful for it’s size
I wanted a blue LED when they came out but I was NOT going to pay 85$ for it.... now I have a 16' roll of them at 3/8" spacing for 12$
@@bunnykiller It’s a good thing that blue LEDs became affordable quickly
@@bunnykiller I got hundred blue LED's for 4EUR, it's impressive how cheap LED's have gone._
@@NyxKemo the first blue LEDs came out about 20 yrs ago and they were pricey, do you remember when green laser pointers came out and how expensive they were, now you can get them for a few $s
Now I'm tempted to tear down one of the current production Air Wick version of this.
Already taken a couple of those apart in videos.
actually it turns out to be a hydrocarbon carrying the oil in a fine mix
at one point it was kerosene(at least I heard that)
these days a water+oil mix similar to what goes into a common diffuser is ideal
I really enjoy combining flammable liquids and electrical devices (ignition sources) in my home... Says every women everywhere 🤦🏼♂️ but it smells nice, right.. right!
Once the piezo dies, you should send the board off to someone that will decap and try to reverse engineer the ASIC. It would be interesting to see what's inside it.
Assuming the resistor tuning is in sequence (as that is what I would have done designing it) I would expect R1 to be close to the value I wanted and the binary adjustment to be steps of R8, R7 and R6 with R8 being biggest. R1 is a 86600 Ohm resistor but tolerance can vary. If the tolerance is +/- 866 Ohm I would expect it to be targeted low and to normally always require largest adjustment enabled but no others. Thus expect to find a set of resistors: 989, 494, 247 ohms to cover the tolerances with no tolerance added on the adjustment, but this is still nowhere what i think we find. Even at 0.01% we'd need +/- 8.66 ohms range.
Let's assume ALL values are EIA-96, but very badly/cheaply marked.
We have, adding some leeway of interpretation:
R1 = 91C = 86600
R8 = 82Z = 0.698
R7 = 39Z = 0.249
R6 = 20Z = 0.158
This does create a quite nice linear adjustment, and very fine. It does however not cover much of the tolerance range. It even only covers a small area of values assuming normal distribution of the error. +/- 0.55 Ohm equals maybe 19% of the area.
Taking another stab at it with these values, not assuming all are EIA:
R1 = 91C = 86600
R8 = 822 = 8200
R7 = 392 = 3900
R6 = 202 = 2000
This I think is correct as it would cover a +/- 7050 ohm range and is almost exactly what we would expect for 10% 86600 Ohm! I was not expecting them to use 10% though but they may have...
You mentioned trying random liquids. Might I suggest something left behind when you use your distiller.
I have a friend who puffs Automatically, all day, every day.
Interesting, as usual, but more so as I worked on these transducers during their development stage.I think you'll find they're manufactured in Nickel not Stainless Steel, the steel is too stiff, if I remember correctly. Wouldn't the 3055 transistor a bipolar? That 'blob' covers, whats called, a COB (Chip On Board) device, it's basically an IC without a package, stuck on the pcb with a blob of epoxy on top. Used when very large volumes are to be manufactured, saves a bit of money! It seems to me that the 560Ohm resistor is to stop the intermittent high current draw, during charging and spraying, from stalling the SMPS? I'm surprised that the oscillator burst is 154khz as, if I remember correctly once again, some 400khz was required to generate droplets that would float in the air. The great thing about these transducers is that the droplet size can be defined by design consequently for any given transducer design the droplet sizes would all be the same whereas a pressure driven spray generates and whole range of different droplet sizes.
Yes, Big Clive, I saw the little puff! 👍🤣 ... And I hate it when my batteries ooze! 👎🤣 ... Incidentally, I produce atomised volatile organic compounds of my own, but they definitely DON'T freshen the air! 💨💩😷🤣
Yay! Tiny oil droplets in your lung - best way to get pneumonia!
Remember when Dow quietly reformulated Saran wrap and warnings started to pop up everywhere about Teflon? Pepperidge Farms remembers
Clive it looks like the company put a lot thought and detail in to the design and building of this product . Maybe they found that it was costly to make
My grandmother has had one of these atomizer things on top of her fridge for 15+ years, and changes the battery with her smoke detector.
Can she even get the aroma refills for it any more?
Awesome Video big clive
I wonder what Clive does with all those photo prints. He must have quite a collection by now 😂
Micro hazer! Add a disco light bulb and turn you toilet into a micro party venue... 🥳
Hope you find some worthy experiments to post!
They still sell those here in the US. Slightly different form (taller) but still the same.
They sell the tall version here that takes three cells and puts out long blasts.
You just need to add a little ignitor to create an auto-mini-whoofler!
This kind of atomizer might work wonders to apply insect poison in very small/confined grow rooms or tents, without actually getting the leaves wet, which can be a problem in some places without good climate control.
Must-research-now haha
Thanks Clive!
The Indian transfluthrin/kerosene wick vaporisers come to mind.
Amazing what they're doing with ̶p̶l̶a̶s̶t̶i̶c̶s̶ ̶ microamps, these days!
It looks like a shrunk down version of those ones you sometimes see in restaurant or bar bathrooms.
Wow! I just sent one of those to the Isle of Man!
Could it be the same one?! JK 😉🥰🤩❤ From the USA!
You are AWESOME, Clive!!
This seller name started "tod".
reminds me of that annoy-o-circuit.. the one that make a cricket chirp in random intervals.. where was that video .. 🤔
If I remember right old cypress 8 bit psoc mcu:s had integrated boost regulator so it can use solar cell or one 1.5V battery. I think you just put coil after 1.5v battery and connect to chip sw pin and chip contained switching transistor and diode.
I've seen one combined boost and MCU chip. It's in a fairly recent air freshener.
This had me wondering if the ASIC is a blobbed 556 dual timer.? (Possibly CMOS)
If it's not a CMOS NE55* Timer then lots of evidence pointing towards the 2/3rds of the VCC are apparent for the timers triggering properties.
1 of the three capacitors at the bottom being timing for the step up oscillator
the other two being switched in using a digitally selectable SPST style chip.
That in mind, I think the 226k & 649ks would need to be switched in / out
along with the capacitors in order to be able to have 4 separate timing
values for the 8 second duration part of the timer to be changeable.?
They'd also seem to measure "Open ended" as the SPST chips function exactly like
a low current relay, no power = no internal connection.
However there maybe a connection between one of those capacitors to the chip leg going
to the 86.6k.?
Therefore adding more evidence to this theory.
I Reckon the 88.6k series values and a certain one of those values
of one of those capacitors MAY point towards an oscillation value of 10ms
using the NE555 1.1 * C/R Timer calculation.?
Sorry I don't remember the calculation formula, I Know a guy that will do though ;)
Normally i'd need to google it but I'm currently mid essay on TH-cam.
LOL.
Cheers and all the best.
I wonder if they were obsoleted by expiry of a patent on making compatible bottles .
I need to repair my electric lawn mower. It had a relay that went bad in the board. So I bought a 100w pldc controller. It wouldn't even try to start. There was power to the board. I'm guessing it needs a potentiometer the wasn't a diagram for either board. The one on the mower is sealed in silicon rubber. So I can't really get a look at it.
I was looking for these some time ago to try fill with peppermint oil to keep mice at bay in the loft!
Ya know what's better, arsenic and snap traps or a cat
@@mattgayda2840 we have snap traps but the loft is not conveniently accessible so they don’t get checked as often as they should. Then we do need the air freshener :(
PARA PONERLO CERCA DEL RETRETE EXCUSADO CUANDO HAGA EL NUMERO 2😊😂
Those little blob ASICs used to be a lot more common. These days everything is microcontrollers. Makes me a bit sad.
That's probably why they switched to the bulky spray designs.
Cheaper to manufacture as they can just throw a generic micro in there instead of custom ASICs.
Almost a reason for super slow mo.
3:50 As an added challenge, can you read the writing on the circuit-board which is now both mirrored and upside-down? I got a bit confused over what I thought was +TAB until I realised it was BAT+ ;-)
I inverted one side so it trusted directly to the image of the other side.
You were never supposed to find out what Hawaii Smelled like
ASIC in a such cheap device? WOW! I'm getting old 😮
Yeah, i'm guessing an unpackaged version of a commercial 12 to 16 pin chip. Can't be that many with internal boost circuit from 1V to 3.3V and suitable features to provide the pulse bursts .
Classic ! I wonder if the cap is a low resistance type for the freq
To think I looked down on spraying your room with possibly dodgy chemicals as misguided and so missed out on some pretty complex electronics.
If the battery expired in 2005, it could date from the mid 90's.
Look for device called "Innobiz Bulia" i've been using it for a while and found out, that best liquid for refill is pure lavender (or similiar) mixed approximately 50:50 with pure isopropyl alcohol
I've found what may be a different brand (with bottle and wick) on eBay.
I prefer the alcohol based ones, they don't add a layer of slime to everything, I find the other one that isn't very good and leaves a shitty residue is fabreeze
Was the waveform any different on the other time settings?
Hey there big Clive how are you doing. I just saw a light that runs on salt water made for remote communities.
Those usually just use the water as an electrolyte. The real work is done by the two electrodes that degrade quite quickly.
you can get them in tesco clive
You can get a modern version that puts out long blasts but not regular puffs.
You make my brain hurt .
Clive, WHAT ARE THE VALUES of the those small capacitors? My OCD compels me to check the time constants between three resistors and capacitors. Just wondering if that is the time for the on, off, and pulse times use in the device.
i wonder what the particle count is, and how healthy those particles are for the user. Right now in many parts of the USA, we are having high particle counts from forest fires in Canada. I assume those particles are different in nature, but I'd think that ANY particles in the air have some detrimental effects on us human beings.
This puts out either an oil or alcohol. No solid particles.
@@bigclivedotcom I suspect that the "oils" do produce particles. Wouldn't the heat break down the oil?
@@frenchcreekvalley The oils produce a very fine vapour, but even in the heated vaporisers the oil is not being burned.
The only suspicious devices for burnt particles are candles and incense sticks and cones.
I can see some Sodastream style experiments coming along. Is it possible to atomise whiskey, Jäegermeister etc. and have your home smell like a brewery 😂
The USB humidifiers on eBay will handle whisky, but it smells very different once atomised.
Random liquids you say? I'll have three and a ginger ale mixer please!
Random liquids? Can't wait for the exploded lithium air freshener.