Nice job,but you didn't need to take the calipers off.if you look at the disc with the wheel off there's a hole that you can put a flat bladed screw driver.click the adjuster untill the disc stops rotating then let it off three clicks job done.hope this helps next time you service your car.
Got same problem on friends i20 . My skills are far more advanced than yours and also in years too. Very good insight as to what I'm facing from your video. Top marks to you for having the guts to getting stuck in. It's how I learned decades ago. You should be proud of yourself even times when you make a complete horlicks of it. Your learning, and that's what it's all about. Plus saving some hard earned cash. Thanks for the info.
I did this job 8 years ago and again yesterday (same car). I remembered it was easy but great to see your brilliant video to remind myself before starting the job. Thanks.
Remember . You might have taken off more than was necessary, but short cuts come with experience. The other guy sounds like the mechanic you wouldn't trust. A know it all and looks down on others .after his comment I wouldn't trust him as far as I could urinate. Slow and careful removing caliper gave you a true idea of how much adjustment to put on without bind from the disc. You did it right.
Adjusting the handbrake cable is difficult through the top of the centre console but there is a bolt holding the back of the console down. Undo it and (working from the passenger footwell) you can lift the back of the console up enough to get a socket with universal joint and an extension bar through the opening to tighten/slacken the handbrake cable. Easy!
I had the same issue, but replaced the drum brake shoes myself. Yes adjust the tensioner until the wheel binds after three/four clicks the method you used is correct. Have a go at replacing your brake lines, get hold of a the correct flaring tool and replacement line, cheap and easy. Kill the music, we want to hear your commentary not a disco. 🙄
I’m going to check mine after seeing your video. I had an advisory when my 2011 i20 had it’s mot last week. The drivers hand book states 6 clicks and mine was 8. Weather permitting I’ll check the linings and adjust or replace. Thanks for posting the video.😊
@@markalden No good spent about 5 hours removing wheels and drums and putting them back together. I took pictures of everything before stripping down one side as most of the adjustment was used. I had to put the shoes back on as nowhere could I get new shoes without ordering and waiting. Nightmare getting springs etc. back together so I'm going to leave it as is.
You're doing this wrong. The usual problem is the lever inside the brake drum that is attached to the hmdbrake cable. They seize up so the brake ahoes don't spring back fully, then they wre down. You have to make sure that lever isn't seized up. Either take it apart and grese the pivot points, or replace it. Put the drum back on and remove the rubber plug, poke a screwdriver through and tighten up that adjuster one click at a time until the shoes grab the drum. Then back it off by 2 or 3 clicks. Only after doing that should you try and adjust the handbrake tension using that nut behind the handbrake lever. You can tighten it up to get it through an MoT but if those internal levers are rusty and stuck it won't be long before the handbrake slackens off.
@@kramelbbiw Once the disk is off, you have to take the brake shoes off, so you need big pliers and screwdriver to unhook the return springs. Then remove the cupped washer that holds the shoes in place by pushing in and twisting 90 degrees. Oh, before starting, take photos so you know what goes back where. The adjuster at the bottom will also fall out. Unhook the cable from the lever, then pull it out through the hole in the back plate taking care not to rip the rubber boot. It's a really tight squeeze but it will come out. Once it's out, push the circlip off the pivot pin taking care not to let it fly off where you can't find it. Then you can pull the pin out, clean all the rust and scale off it, then re-assemble with some grease on it. When I fitted the new lever I found the pivot pin had rusted away so much there was no longer a groove to hold the circlip, so good job I already bought a new part. Before putting it back together, clean any rust off the raised dimples in the back plate that the brake shoes rest against and apply a light coating of grease. The nightmare job is refitting the retaining springs because you need about 4 hands to do it. I compressed the springs with mole grips and wrapped copper wire around them to keep them compressed. That made it easier to get the cupped washer over the end. Then I just snipped the wire off and pulled out the fragments to release the spring. Engage the ends of the brake shoes with the slots in the handbrake lever at top, and adjuster at bottom. Handy to have a bungee strap to wrap around the shoes to stop them moving. Then, you just need the big pliers again to stretch the return springs and hook the ends back into the correct holes in the shoes. Hook the handbrake cable back over the lever before replacing the brake disc. Work the handbrake a few times to centre the shoes, then adjust the free movement. I turn the adjuster until the hub won't turn, then back it off about 3 or 4 clicks. Only after the slack is set properly on both sides would I adjust the handbrake cable using that nut under the centre console, so it takes about 22kg of force to pull it up 7 clicks.
Take no notice of brendenpels or what ever he calls himself . Your method at least allowed you to check the meat left on the shoes. He sounds like an idle ×#&*^ and not prepared to do a thorough check . You do it your way . Which is MY way.
Nice job,but you didn't need to take the calipers off.if you look at the disc with the wheel off there's a hole that you can put a flat bladed screw driver.click the adjuster untill the disc stops rotating then let it off three clicks job done.hope this helps next time you service your car.
thank you for this. appreciate the watch
I found that it was impossible even shining a torch through the hole as it is too small.
😅
Always inspect the parts thumbs 👍
❤❤❤yes John !
Massive props to you for servicing your own vehicle, good on you mate
thank you 🙌🏽
Got same problem on friends i20 . My skills are far more advanced than yours and also in years too. Very good insight as to what I'm facing from your video. Top marks to you for having the guts to getting stuck in. It's how I learned decades ago. You should be proud of yourself even times when you make a complete horlicks of it. Your learning, and that's what it's all about. Plus saving some hard earned cash. Thanks for the info.
@@DavidThwaits appreciate the lovely comment David! 💪🏽
I did this job 8 years ago and again yesterday (same car). I remembered it was easy but great to see your brilliant video to remind myself before starting the job. Thanks.
@@stuartgreenpig thank you stuart
Brilliant video, sent this to my mate and he can barrow my tool and complete the work studying this vid😅 I love it
Really appreciate the kind comment 🙌🏽 thank you
Well done 👏 that’s the thing man with every small screw you learn something new! Keep going chap!
Thank you sir 🫶🏽
Remember . You might have taken off more than was necessary, but short cuts come with experience. The other guy sounds like the mechanic you wouldn't trust. A know it all and looks down on others .after his comment I wouldn't trust him as far as I could urinate. Slow and careful removing caliper gave you a true idea of how much adjustment to put on without bind from the disc. You did it right.
Adjusting the handbrake cable is difficult through the top of the centre console but there is a bolt holding the back of the console down. Undo it and (working from the passenger footwell) you can lift the back of the console up enough to get a socket with universal joint and an extension bar through the opening to tighten/slacken the handbrake cable. Easy!
@@stuartgreenpig thank you
I had the same issue, but replaced the drum brake shoes myself. Yes adjust the tensioner until the wheel binds after three/four clicks the method you used is correct.
Have a go at replacing your brake lines, get hold of a the correct flaring tool and replacement line, cheap and easy.
Kill the music, we want to hear your commentary not a disco. 🙄
thank you for watching and the tips hehe
I’m going to check mine after seeing your video. I had an advisory when my 2011 i20 had it’s mot last week. The drivers hand book states 6 clicks and mine was 8. Weather permitting I’ll check the linings and adjust or replace. Thanks for posting the video.😊
hopefully it sorts it. please update me
@@markalden No good spent about 5 hours removing wheels and drums and putting them back together. I took pictures of everything before stripping down one side as most of the adjustment was used. I had to put the shoes back on as nowhere could I get new shoes without ordering and waiting. Nightmare getting springs etc. back together so I'm going to leave it as is.
@@barrybrockbank7906 oh no. Hopefully, the new shoes sorts everything out
Gratsy mark, galinga. Pagkahawd mag kubi sa sakyanan ug mag ayo.
Thank you sir Steve
There is an adjustment hole in the drum to make it easier
Thank youu
on a 'rolling road' (brake tester) it tells you the resistance of each wheel
Ahh that brill. It was the parking brake that failed and not the brakes
You're doing this wrong. The usual problem is the lever inside the brake drum that is attached to the hmdbrake cable. They seize up so the brake ahoes don't spring back fully, then they wre down. You have to make sure that lever isn't seized up. Either take it apart and grese the pivot points, or replace it. Put the drum back on and remove the rubber plug, poke a screwdriver through and tighten up that adjuster one click at a time until the shoes grab the drum. Then back it off by 2 or 3 clicks. Only after doing that should you try and adjust the handbrake tension using that nut behind the handbrake lever. You can tighten it up to get it through an MoT but if those internal levers are rusty and stuck it won't be long before the handbrake slackens off.
Yeah, mine has seized in this way. Arrived here hoping he'd be taking everything apart so I could see how I gets my seized part out 😊
@@kramelbbiw Once the disk is off, you have to take the brake shoes off, so you need big pliers and screwdriver to unhook the return springs. Then remove the cupped washer that holds the shoes in place by pushing in and twisting 90 degrees. Oh, before starting, take photos so you know what goes back where. The adjuster at the bottom will also fall out. Unhook the cable from the lever, then pull it out through the hole in the back plate taking care not to rip the rubber boot. It's a really tight squeeze but it will come out. Once it's out, push the circlip off the pivot pin taking care not to let it fly off where you can't find it. Then you can pull the pin out, clean all the rust and scale off it, then re-assemble with some grease on it. When I fitted the new lever I found the pivot pin had rusted away so much there was no longer a groove to hold the circlip, so good job I already bought a new part. Before putting it back together, clean any rust off the raised dimples in the back plate that the brake shoes rest against and apply a light coating of grease. The nightmare job is refitting the retaining springs because you need about 4 hands to do it. I compressed the springs with mole grips and wrapped copper wire around them to keep them compressed. That made it easier to get the cupped washer over the end. Then I just snipped the wire off and pulled out the fragments to release the spring. Engage the ends of the brake shoes with the slots in the handbrake lever at top, and adjuster at bottom. Handy to have a bungee strap to wrap around the shoes to stop them moving. Then, you just need the big pliers again to stretch the return springs and hook the ends back into the correct holes in the shoes. Hook the handbrake cable back over the lever before replacing the brake disc. Work the handbrake a few times to centre the shoes, then adjust the free movement. I turn the adjuster until the hub won't turn, then back it off about 3 or 4 clicks. Only after the slack is set properly on both sides would I adjust the handbrake cable using that nut under the centre console, so it takes about 22kg of force to pull it up 7 clicks.
@@brendanpells912 Thank you so much for taking the time to teach me - that'll help so much!
You should state the year of your i20 for your video. I've just looked at a 2016 model and it doesn't have shoes.
Hi John. My i20 is a 2013 one. I'll be keeping that in mind for future videos. thank you
Different models of the same year may not have drums
Great video, well done
thank you sir.
Love it ,
@@godsslave6400 🤝🏽
Take no notice of brendenpels or what ever he calls himself . Your method at least allowed you to check the meat left on the shoes. He sounds like an idle ×#&*^ and not prepared to do a thorough check . You do it your way . Which is MY way.
Nice work, pal.
thank you kindly