I have a variety of husqvarna axes which are made in sweden, not as nicely finished as the GB or Hults but do the job well and importantly suit my budget. Your review shines as the most unbiased and fact filled I have seen, no selling out here.
Another Council Tool axe that impresses is the Flying Fox which is offered in two handle lengths has a hardened pole and costs from $60-$80 and is made from 1060 steel.
Glad I watched your review before I pulled the trigger on the hardcore hatchet. Been watching another popular bushcraft you tuber pushing these hardcore hatchets on his channel of late. Thanks for saving me a few bucks.
Man thats sad to hear. Almost every review I have heard about them has been negative but they are still producing axes so they must be finding some shills from the sound of it
Mystery steel also means "we use cheap steel and don't want to tell you so we can charge you more" Anything named "hardcore" automatically gets a strike
I think the value aspect is more important to a person who is going to use the axe on a regular basis. Especially in the knife market there are many collectors who would never use or sharpen certain knives but are willing to pay quite a bit of money with the thought that if it isn't used they can resell it down the road in like new condition. If you plan to use, sharpen, and eventually wear out a knife or an axe the price is important over the life of the tool but so are things like cutting geometry and ease of sharpening, and replacement cost if lost or destroyed in the line of duty. I use 95% of my stuff so I typically look for the least expensive tool that is pleasant to use, easy to carry, and comes easy to sharpen. I don't want to have to completely regrind something before I use it but I prefer to do the initial sharpening on the axe because I have found that many axes which arrive sharp have had the temper compromised from the heat of a grinder on the extremely thin steel at the apex of a sharp edge. I'm sure some of the really expensive axes are stone ground or at least polished by someone who understands steel and keeps the overheating to a minimum, but I use hatchets and axes fairly often and I am not overly gentle with them as I can easily sharpen, repair, carve and hang a new handle if needed and I am not concerned with cosmetics. I agree with you about heat treatment and steel a quality steel and an appropriate hardness are right there with geometry as the most important things I look for when deciding on what I want to buy and what I want to use.
I have council tool hudson bay, gransfors sfa, most of the estwing line, a mix of cold steel and barebones tomahawks, old vintage axes and hatchets over 30 in total. Hands down every time if i am doing serious work i reach for my old norlund hudson bay and collins double bit from the 1970s. All of my other axes and hawks work great but none compare to the old school.
For me the Small Forest Axe has a perfect weight and feel using it one handed. It is very similar to my machete. Of course they're mostly used for different things, but in a similar method. Even one ounce difference or three inches in length would affect their wielding performance for me. Perhaps it could be compensated and adjusted for, but for me at least it's just about perfect as is. If I'm being totally candid, it makes me feel like Thor swinging a lightning bolt. 😅 Of course I'm not the same as everyone else and the Small Forest Axe certainly isn't best at everything an axe is good for. It isn't my only axe, but it's my primary axe for light duty and portable work. I also have a nice hatchet from Germany, but it's a bit less power in the hand and a bit less versatile. It's more like a stout tomahawk with a hatchet handle. Cheers.
You are so good at what you do. If any company picked took you up for R&D they would be gaining an invaluable asset. Thanks for all your in depth, well rounded, and reasonable reviews and demos.
Its what i am here for! There are so many companies that i feel like i could help so much in five minutes, most of which i would help for free but 🤷🏻♂️
Came for the hatchets but a huge fan of waist purses. Still have my first: a camo Outdoor Products fanny pack from the 80's. Trying to keep my collection under five🥴
Thanks for the video and going into the details about each brand of axe. Although, I think it's pretty easy to judge Hardcore Hammers for what it truly is by simply going to their website. They're obviously trying so hard to appeal to the " Walking Dead zombie slayer wannabe" or the "Tacticool Call of Duty types" that you can't take them seriously as an actual tool maker for real men! The quality of their hatchets, as you've clearly shown, bares this fact out!
I have the honor of living about 30 miles from Council Tool. They make great axes. They also used to make tools for the turpentine and tar industry many many years ago.
Thanks for the review. Several of the reviews I was seeing for Hardcore Hammer was favorable on the head design but making note of the handle issues. I kept looking at the head thinking the top should be more forward as it's the part that is going to bite more. Not sure I can justify that kind of expense on a hatchet since I don't have a lot of need these days, but every time I look at the stuff in the hardware store I grimace at the profile and edge thickness. Plus all the work stripping off the urethane coating from the head, let alone the handle.
I absolutely agree on all points. I REALLY wish Hardcore could square themselves away but at this point it seems like they are going to stand by their issues regardless of what anyone says, and they are almost proud of them. I dont get it. For what its worth a council like the flying fox is probably the best bang for the buck on the planet right now.
I have never had a “fancy premium” axe. A bunch of Fiskars and Hultafors Brooks. These are not expensive but doing some modifications make them work horses. I learned when to use which and never felt I need more. Thank you for beautiful comparison 🪓
Council tool is one of the few companies still making legitimate tools for Forrest service and emergency services. I'd expect them to be making things that work.
I've been wanting one of the council tool 18" pack axes.........I also really like the 24" velvi-cut hudson. The camp carver in a 16" would be great too. I'm torn between 2 tools for exact job's vs. the one 18" that can almost do both....with my budget I could get one premium and one in the 1060 steel. I really like their stuff though. Nothing against Gransfors but I own enough Swiss stuff. (P-226's) lol. Great stuff my friend.
They are all good! I prefer the 24' pack axe to the 18"- the 18" is FANTASTIC but I just feel like with its head weight the 24" stick is better suited. With that being said the camp carver is an entirely different axe. I absolutely love it. I would be hard for me to say whether the camp carver or the 24" pack axe is my favorite.
I waited a good few years to treat myself to a Gransfors Bruk... Boy... Was I let down. It had chipping issues from what I'd assume was a bad heat treat; I also blame the use of recycled steel. It was chipping out during light half ass use. I tried to resharpen and blah blah blah and gave it a few tries, but it never got better. I returned it and never looked back. The one I had was the Wildlife Hatchet and it was a straight BOS. I'm also staying away from brands that use recycled steel after this experience. Oh well.... I'm planning on getting the Council Tool Wood-Craft Camp Carver to hopefully permanently replace the Gransfors Bruks.
Wow, glad i watched this. I have a couple gransfors and a few council tools but was almost about to buy a hardcore haatchet this morning. Definitely will not after seeing that handle
I agree with your assessments! Hardcore blew it! Council Tool is doing it right! I have two Council Tool Velvicut axes. One is the 4 pound felling axe & the other is the Bad Boy Boys axe. Also I have the 19 inch Council Tool Pak axe. All the above have super tough 5160 Steel. 5160 holds an edge & I have used all three extensively!
You can DEF tell CT took inspiration from GBA for the woodcraft pack axe and camp carver… just like Hults Bruk/Hultafors has the Agdor line of American felling patterns (Michigan, etc) This is Sweden Vs USA - would love to see Germany (helko Werk, Big Ox) Vs Sweden or Sweden (HB/Hultafors) Vs Sweden (GBA) Unforunately this hobby is quite expensive, very quickly. So we understand not having access to all these axes LOL
I agree thinner handles are better. I have some hello werk axes that you pay a hefty price for them also come with thick handles I’ve rehung axes and also thinned handles that I didnt like. And also reprofile grinds. I have a hardcore hammers survivalist coming So I’ll make my own decisions if I like it or not. I enjoy doing that anyway. Don’t me me wrong I like your reviews. If I don’t like I can always move it out of my collection
I hope you enjoy it. A lot of work can be enjoyable with axes, but if you pay a premium you shouldn't have to do the work. With how awful HCH's handle selection is I would bet once thinned it would break with use. The real crime here imho is a VERY nice old carpenters hatchet with a hand selected handle from house handle co and a custom axe mask could all be had for less than $50 and it would take less work that the Survivalist to hang and sharpen than the survivalist would be to thin and reprofile and the end result would be better. I can't imagine why HCH hasn't fixed the worn out toes on their design yet 😓
While the three Council tool axes I have are excellent, with well-hung, beautifully aligned hafts, and admirably forged heads, I have read a few reviews----with pics---which tell a different story. So I wonder if lower quality seconds are sold to some retailers who then sell them at full price ? I'll add that none of my CT axes are even the Velvicut models, But they are all as well made (if not polished) as any I've seen from any maker (excepting a few hand-made, very high priced , small shop models which are too expensive to actually use. I.e., collectibles). My comments refer to traditionally made steel/wood axes.
Its hard to say- council tools standard line has been sold continuously for decades with varying quality options being available. I think Councils standard line is meant for the average user who just absolutely abuses their tools- Lets be honest, the average guy who buys a cheap axe will never sharpen it, will chop into the ground with it, etc etc etc and if he breaks it he'll trash it and buy another instead of rehang. When you are in THAT market the prices have to be low and something has to give. I am confident that i could buy one of those lines of axes, i have one, and sharpen it and put it to work. But it would be a lot nicer with a nicer handle. Anyways, i think for the price they hit at the standard line, as you have experienced, they do a GREAT job. But at their price point and for the average user at that price point... Well they wont be a top grade off the shelf knife. I LOVE my top grade council axes and my standard line- but they arent comparable and that makes sense- for the price they shouldnt be.
Thanks for the content. I was looking at hardcore hammers products and also considering council tool but some of the Amazon reviews on council tool are blasting them for crappy quality lately. And great thoughts on hardcore hammers marketing zombie apocalypse hoarders in moms basement vs actual users.
So Amazon is actually selling not only fake councils but also axes that have been beat to heck. I just saw a post of a brutally fake council tool that someone got from amazon, its crazy.
The Gransfors Bruk axe you have there is the Small Forest Axe with Ray Mears logo instead of Gransfors Bruk logo. It's not the Ray Mears Wilderness Axe. Also, Gransfors Bruk does make a Scandinavian Forest Axe that is comparable to your Council Tool Pack Axe. It has a 2 lb head with 25 inch handle. It's better for felling task than the Small Forest Axe. The main purpose of Small Forest Axe is for limbing and bushcraft tasks. It's design to be packable and lightweight to carry with you on your camping expedition. The size is what makes it popular with the Bushcraft Community. Small enough to carve with and big enough to chop small trees if you have to.
I have a yardsale plumb usa carpenters hatchet I picked up 15 years ago for 5 bucks at a yardsale and I use regularly which has better geometry and I would bet better steel for the purpose than the hard-core hammers hatchet.
ive got a couple GB and hultafors was just about to buy the hardcore hammer survivalist but was worried with the blade orintation myself i wish i think ppl just want somthing that can hammer metal without damagin the axe i would love to hear ur opinon on the new camp companion axe with hardcore hammers the seemed to have fixed the blade profile but now i am worried about the handle as it comes to over $300 CAD with shiping
It looks good because for the most part it's a copy of the council tool Camp Carver. I'll do a review I'm sure soon but I have very low expectations. I can't imagine why HH is so arrogant about their designs for all these years then when they decide to drop a decent axe it's a rip off 😓
My “marbles” 18$, 18” hand forged hatchet has a great handle like council does, thin and curvy, holds an edge pretty well and looks just like these 100-200$ axes. Check them out. Save some $$. It’s obviously modeled after the GB and council.
You could always thin down the handle and make it too the the thickness you like. If you like the axe head. I highly doubt the handle would break on a hatchet
That's just thing thing- #1- you shouldn't have to do that at this price, and it is MUCH harder to do RIGHT than most people think anyways. Although most people don't know what right is it would take a few hours to do- what is YOUR time worth? #2- the head isn't worth it
Good review. I appreciate that you tried to fairly compare dissimilar tools I think you did well. I’m looking at Condor’s cloudburst axe. 23” 1.5# head (from memory). Significantly cheaper than the others. Perhaps not “premium” but I suspect a good competitor. Any experience with the Condors? Thanks
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors that’s definitely not “premium.” I have one of their bushcraft knives. I love it but don’t have a comparison. I’d love to spend 15-20 minutes with a few of these….thanks for the vids
@@just-dl my pleasure! I want to clarify that i wouldnt say that condor is BAD, and i do like some of what they do. I have NO DOUBT that your bushcraft knife is good- but i might prefer a mora or a hultafors for value and quality. And i just want to say that because sometimes people think my tone is condescending and i am saying more than i type- im not. So i just wanted to make sure that was up front.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I hear ya. Text-only communication leaves out tone and non-verbal elements. Easy to be “mis-heard.” When it comes to value, Mora is hard to beat. I have a $20 companion. And it puts up with a lot. It’s not my favorite. (It is my daughter’s favorite!) but, I’ll sing it’s praises any time for “bang for the buck.” Some of what I’m looking for is really subjective. So, when I see something that says “this guy thinks like I do” then that’s an opinion I seek out. They way you addressed value, when a head to head comparison wasn’t possible, well, that rang a bell. I may end up buying two and selling one. Or, I might have two! I have a hard time saying goodbye to any edged tool…there’s probably a medical term for that….thanks for the conversation! ~Dan
The only ones here that really qualify as “premium” are the CTs, given they use 5160 (and they actually say so in their listings). Most other elements of an axe are subjective to one degree or another…but 5160 is genuinely superior to most steels most manufacturers use for most axes. And it’s an integrity offering, given that they actually tell you what the steel is. If you’re going to charge a premium price, you really should be honest about what you’re selling.
Hhmmmmm i havent had any of their premium line come loose- they are left proud and well hung. The commercial affordable line might come loose, i think one of mine maybe had, but i dont remember if i tightened it up or if i only notice it when chopping locusts, its been awhile. Regardless, all handles should be press fit, even liam hoffman presses handles.
suggestion : when you get it new whack the handle with a hammer about three times, carve off the peeled up handle curles and re-seat the wedgeLock......pretty much fixes any probs....what happens is they make them way ahead, and the handle dries slightly, and then loosens....not a big problem....OnWard.......
First off I think the Council Tool axes are the best deal on the market in a quality tool. Their handles, the quality of their steel and the hardened polls put them in a class all by themselves. However I don't think the Gransfors are out of the competition. While I don't think by "mystery steel" they mean they don't know what's in it they just aren't telling what it is. Kind of corny on their part and it really looks like and attempt to hide the fact that their steel is not in the same class as Council Tools is. In the meantime the Council Tool Pack Axe is my next purchase.
For the mystery steel, it likely also probably has something to do with their eco comminism over there, although they advertised mystery steel "before it was cool" But for what its worth by advertising mystery steel they can use l6, 80crv2, 1080, 1084, 5160, 8670, 52100, or who knows how many other steels and the consumer would never know. All they have to do is leave the edge a bit thick, which they do and boom- always has the cheapest stuff when they need it.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors - There is really no reason for anyone to feel compelled to buy the Gransfors axes anymore. Council Tools just keeps on upgrading their products and at this point they are leading the field in my opinion. Better handles, better steel and hardened polls. Hard to beat that.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors Right, GB has a good design but so does alot of other companies. The coolest part about GB is that they are still hand forged but on a factory scale level, yet many blacksmiths today could forge a great axe if they know what they're doing and they could even tell you the steel type after lol
@@williamsdesigning1949 i dont believe they are hand forged like most people think- they have a forging machine as i understand it and a person moves the head from one die to the next. With that being said there are a lot of AMAZING forgers making axes out there!
I have the misfortune on going on the hype train of Gransfors Bruk axes and hatchets. Ain’t nothing to bad with them, but the price was not worth what the axe and hatchet I bought for. Then I discovered Council Tools, now those tools are worth the price. In my opinion
I almost went with Gransfors Bruks until I seen recent videos about problems with their steel and their metals are recycled so I went with a Council Tool 24”, 2# forest pack axe with superior steel.
Handle grain orientation plays way less of a role than people think. Liam Hoffman did some testing and they hold up nearly the same with grain doing whatever. Jus sayin.
Their older axes were made with 5160. I still have my original Gransfors that I’ve had for the past 20 years made in 5160. I miss wetterlings. I own a few wetterlings made of 5160 as well. Hardcore hammers makes an awesome modern day axe. Anyone who knows anything about 4130 chromoly steel knows it’s a steel that will last a lifetime of beating.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors yeah, sorry if my comment came across as me being snarky or hating. It’s just that if these guys wanna be taken seriously as ‘high-end’ wooden-handled tool makers, then they need to get, at the very *LEAST,* grain orientation of the wooden handles down. And yet it’s an *ABYSMALLY* simple concept. And sometimes, even Gransfors drops the ball on grain orientation of their hafts - and they’re the so-called ‘Creme de la Creme’ brand name for woodsmen-oriented axes and tools. You’d think that if you’re gonna charge $400+ for a wooden-handled tool, then your knowledge about *EVERY ASPECT* of the tool (not just the head) would be top-notch - and your QC would reflect that knowledge and commitment to putting out an axcellent product *EVERY* time. The only brand I’ve heard of that actually makes sure their hafts have good grain orientation *EVERY* time is Council Tools - and the trade-off for that is that they hydraulically seat their axes onto the handles without first grinding in a chamfer bevel into the interior of the socket on the bottom end. So you’ve got these 90-degree sharp bottom portions of the interiors of these axe sockets being hydraulically forced down onto a *WOODEN* handle - and that causes shelving on the wooden handle - and that’s *ALSO* a big no-no, because shelving leads to splintering and eventual breakage. Why is it ALWAYS a game of trade-offs with high-end axes, man? Yes, the axe *HEADS* by Council can’t be beat. Differentially heat treated 5160 spring steel is an *EXCELLENT* choice for your Woodcraft line of tools. That’s a *damn* good steel, and a *damn* good heat treatment. I love the Scandi grinds on them, too. But then, in my eyes, you do *ALL* of this other great shit… and then piss the bed *HARD* by not grinding in either a rounded bevel or a simple chamfer bevel on the interiors of the bottom part of the socket, so that when you go to hydraulically seat the tool, the sharp socket doesn’t cause shelving on that *BEAUTIFUL* axe handle. So now, all of your products get delivered with shelving on the handles, right under the bottom portion of the socket. Cryin, *CRYIN* shame.
@MrAlexH1991 so of a higher end production axe my expectations depend on the cost. At maybe around $100ish from a "premium" brand I don't expect PERFECT grain orientation AND a nice grind on a nice head that is nicely seated- But I do expect everything to be DECENT. The Hardcore Hatchet has department store grain that is not only horizontal but also WIDE. That handle is poorly shaped and poo poo in general. Like you I think Council Tool is by a long shot the best in the business- does their premium line have that same issue with the shelf? It's been awhile but I felt for some reason like they did not. But yeah, you are on the money.
Hardcore Hammers / Hatchets and Hardcore Hardware are different companies and not affiliated. Hardcore Hammers is an American company based out of Hillsboro Illinois. Hardcore Hardware is of course Austrialian.
Look, I understand you have some opinions on the hardcore brand of hatchets. But out of all the axes you showcased here. That hardcore hatchet made from 4140 chromoly steel will outlast every other axe here by miles it’s not even a comparison. You don’t seem to have any knowledge on chromoly steel or what it was designed for. Chromoly is an impact steel used in things like commercial airplanes, fighter jets, tanks, and even more applicable items like BMX bikes, gorilla cages, etc. Things that will get thrashed and take a beating. With that alone, I would take the hardcore hatchet over the others any day as 5160 spring steel doesn’t even compared to chromoly steel in terms of durability. I bought the corporals corner hatchet from hardcore hammers and did a rehandle myself. It’s not the most ergonomic hatchet out of the box but after some mods I quite like it. I used to carry my Les stroud wetterlings axe before this and still use it from time to time. It’s important to fully educate ourselves about the things we share so that others can make an educated decision on something they want to purchase. We as people tend to get far too hung up on personal opinions instead of discussing things from the perspective of an open mind.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors You clearly don’t understand what that word means. Using a term coined by the modern day feminist just makes you look foolish. I wasn’t expecting an educated response anyways based on how you handle yourself. Yet here I was hoping you might have an open mind.
I have never heard of sporan but I do think most fanny packs are worn in a similar way- I'll be finally reviewing this pack (I bought a second as well) soon. The operation of the pack for ccw is unlike anything else I have seen and it has been a game changer for me!
@Jacob_Beach_Peterson Jacob you have some of the best videos put there. Have you thought of ever doing a video series in comparison type? Like your old chopping videos?
In theory council tools is a great buy. In reality, they will not send you good working axes. Council tool will actively send you downgraded axes over the internet such as Amazon or eBay. I'm 5 axes in and so far all returned for major problems out the box.
Are you under the delusion that Gransfors Bruk doesn't know the exact grade of recycled 'swedish' steel they're using? ROFLMAO, that's simply impossible for even ordering steel from a standard mill. Secondly, do you really think they don't have a standardised heat treat recipe that they use? Okayyyyyyy. Serious, what is this the middle ages pre industrialisation? Thirdly, a percentage of most ingot steels (1075, 1055, 5160, 4140) is already recycled so as an example say 10-30% of the iron used by say X mill comes from recycled sources, so if they produce 5160 then it's recycled steel but still has a grade which is 5160 (I am trying to be as clear as possible from an engineering POV as you're literally putting out misinformation here). The GFBs have a design style that might not suit you, sure, it might not be optimal even, possible, but your explanation for why that is being done by them is just ludicrious.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors they've been doing things exactly the 19:26 same for so long I think they've become 19:29 stagnant Metallurgy has come so far uh 19:32 grants for 19:34 having a mystery steal and admitting 19:37 that it's recycled is a bad move 19:40 it is a bad move 19:44 um you can recycle steel sure but 19:46 recycle it to an exact specification 19:50 make it 5160 or 4140 or 10.55 or 19:55 whatever you want to make it but quality 19:57 comes in heat treat and you can never 19:59 have perfect heat treat if you have 20:01 mystery steel so using a recycled steel 20:04 and not ordering ordering it to a 20:07 specific recipe just like you would cook 20:09 a specific recipe 20:11 uh means that their heat treat can't be 20:13 as good which means that they have to 20:15 have slightly thicker edge geometry so 20:18 you've got a slightly thick Edge This is literally what you're saying, it's ludicrous. 'The steel that Gränsfors Bruk uses has been specially created to produce the perfect axe head. The steel must not be too hard, nor too soft and pliable. Gränsfors Bruk maintains a constant dialogue with Ovako to secure its supply of steel best suited to axe production.' Now this ^^^ is what GFB says directly on their site. The steel is supplied to their specifications, that implies a grade or atleast a known composition if you have any idea how a Steel mill works, even bog basic 1060 for example needs to have a defined carbon and manganese content with an upper limit for say sulphur and phosphorus (very important for the mechanical properties of a steel) which means they have a standardised heat treat. This isn't rocket science.
I could be wrong but it’s my suspicion the GB axe you have is not the ray mears wilderness axe. It’s super confusing they way they brand all the GB stuff, but that axe appears to be a GB small forest axe. Ray mears sells all the GB axes with his name on them (which adds to the confusion). The real wilderness axe is only sold on his website and is 24” long like the council tool pack axe and has the ears trimmed down. I do own both the pack axe and wilderness axe and they are roughly identical size and weight.
You see the confusion is this says ray mears bushcraft or w/e on the handle, and it has the SFA looking ears- but the SFA i think has a longer handle... I was looking between the two models and this one and just shaking my head. Idk man.
There is a bit of misinformation here when you refer to GBA steel as "mystery steel". Recycled steel does not mean they do not know the metallurgy of the steel. I already see a comment bashing the company for using "cheap steel" because of your comment. It seems your intentions to help others before their purchase is good but you are not being completely honest with your knowledge. If you are unsure, it would probably be in your best interest to just state that. Blessings :)
The one spreading misinformation is you. If recycled steel is recycled into a perfect formula of a standard steel then you can just advertise it as such. But they dont- they only advertise "recycled steel" which is in fact Mystery steel. Which is why they have thicker edges. 👌🏻 In fact i find it ironic that you come here to claim calling recycled steel mystery steel is misinformation and yet you can't supply what the steel is 😅😅🤣🤣
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I see you do not take well to constructive criticism. It is very close to 1055 with some minor difference. It is a proprietary steel for GBA. They don’t release the exact data for that reason. The important factor is they, like many successful companies of a good product, will continue to produce and provide a quality. Think of it as a grandmas secret spaghetti sauce. I hope you can read this without taking great offense to your pride because this and my previous post have nothing but good intention to help you. Not tear you down. Sorry if it came across that way to you.
It's proprietary steel near 1055 based on what evidence? Still sounds like a mystery 😅😅🤣🤣 And do you know how silly a "proprietary steel" is when anyone can do a composition test when they want to? In the US it costs $40, I'll be doing one myself. To further add to the silliness Mora refers to their steel as recycled but still specifies that it is 12c27. I handle constructive criticism very well, I do however correct silliness. It seems to me that you don't handle constructive criticism well 👌🏻 "Think of it as grandma's secret recipe" You mean grandma's recipe is a MYSTERY!? 🤣🤣😅😅
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors Good luck with your channel. I hope your text results will bring you closure. More importantly, I hope you discover that not everyone is out to get you in life. Some are here to help. God bless
I agree with the commenter. There's a difference in using recycled steel that is analyzed and formulated to a spec versus using what comes out from the smelter randomly, and while GB does the former you are stating what they do as the latter. It's not "mystery steel" junk, which is what you're implying. And, no one is complaining about GB steel. Their axes hold an edge and can readily be sharpened. There is no difference in service life. All decent axe makers use steel of sufficient quality to be fit for purpose... GB, HB/Hultafors/Husqvarna, CT, Cold Steel, even Marbles with their Latin American and Indian-sourced axes. What differentiates these axes and manufacturers is the quality of design and workmanship. Less expensive axe heads are often cast, not forged, but better steels and hardening makes them acceptable. The hand-forged Swedish axes are more expensive because it takes skilled employees who have to make a reasonable living in a Developed World country to make them... and forging makes for a denser, stronger, and more durable axe head. To effectively evaluate an axe, you have to first understand if its design goals match your intended use. The GB SFA was designed for portability and use in hunting and camping. It is great for bucking limbs, felling small trees, splitting an elk pelvis or cutting the limbs at the joints, splitting that limb or small tree you bucked, etc. It's not the ultimate tree felling tool; pick up a CT 3lb Dayton pattern axe with a 36" haft and chop away. It's all about tradeoffs, what each individual wants and is willing to put up with. My CT has good raw materials but the handle isn't smooth and well-finished and the axe was dull... nothing that a few minutes with a file, puck, 200‐grit sandpaper and some BLO didn't fix. The GBs and HB axes are fine out of the wrapper. If I didn't have a Norlund Voyageur the close copy CT Velvicut HB hand axe looks interesting.
Between getting the name of the Hardcore Hammer wrong and leaving in the snort and spit that you did in the beginning of the video it is difficult to really take your reviews seriously.
I have a variety of husqvarna axes which are made in sweden, not as nicely finished as the GB or Hults but do the job well and importantly suit my budget. Your review shines as the most unbiased and fact filled I have seen, no selling out here.
Thanks man!
I haven't used the Husqvarna axes except a few times but I hear great things about their value.
Another Council Tool axe that impresses is the Flying Fox which is offered in two handle lengths has a hardened pole and costs from $60-$80 and is made from 1060 steel.
Yeah i need to try it! 1060 is a fantastic steel for them!
Glad I watched your review before I pulled the trigger on the hardcore hatchet. Been watching another popular bushcraft you tuber pushing these hardcore hatchets on his channel of late. Thanks for saving me a few bucks.
Man thats sad to hear. Almost every review I have heard about them has been negative but they are still producing axes so they must be finding some shills from the sound of it
Yep, the council tool 24" pack axe is my favorite smaller sized axe
One of the best axe videos I’ve watched.
Thanks! That means a lot!
Most useful pack axe comparison I’ve seen so far. Well done.
@jessr.2490 thanks!!!
Mystery steel also means "we use cheap steel and don't want to tell you so we can charge you more"
Anything named "hardcore" automatically gets a strike
👆🏻
I think the value aspect is more important to a person who is going to use the axe on a regular basis. Especially in the knife market there are many collectors who would never use or sharpen certain knives but are willing to pay quite a bit of money with the thought that if it isn't used they can resell it down the road in like new condition. If you plan to use, sharpen, and eventually wear out a knife or an axe the price is important over the life of the tool but so are things like cutting geometry and ease of sharpening, and replacement cost if lost or destroyed in the line of duty. I use 95% of my stuff so I typically look for the least expensive tool that is pleasant to use, easy to carry, and comes easy to sharpen. I don't want to have to completely regrind something before I use it but I prefer to do the initial sharpening on the axe because I have found that many axes which arrive sharp have had the temper compromised from the heat of a grinder on the extremely thin steel at the apex of a sharp edge. I'm sure some of the really expensive axes are stone ground or at least polished by someone who understands steel and keeps the overheating to a minimum, but I use hatchets and axes fairly often and I am not overly gentle with them as I can easily sharpen, repair, carve and hang a new handle if needed and I am not concerned with cosmetics. I agree with you about heat treatment and steel a quality steel and an appropriate hardness are right there with geometry as the most important things I look for when deciding on what I want to buy and what I want to use.
I have council tool hudson bay, gransfors sfa, most of the estwing line, a mix of cold steel and barebones tomahawks, old vintage axes and hatchets over 30 in total. Hands down every time if i am doing serious work i reach for my old norlund hudson bay and collins double bit from the 1970s. All of my other axes and hawks work great but none compare to the old school.
So like which ones are your fav?
I have a Hults & Bruk forest axe 26” 2 lb, that’s my favorite all around axe and a Bison axe splitter.
Hardcore seems like an Instagram-oriented product.
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I love the face you made "recycled mystery steel"
🤣
Very cool to hear your observations regarding differences. 👍
For me the Small Forest Axe has a perfect weight and feel using it one handed. It is very similar to my machete. Of course they're mostly used for different things, but in a similar method. Even one ounce difference or three inches in length would affect their wielding performance for me. Perhaps it could be compensated and adjusted for, but for me at least it's just about perfect as is. If I'm being totally candid, it makes me feel like Thor swinging a lightning bolt. 😅 Of course I'm not the same as everyone else and the Small Forest Axe certainly isn't best at everything an axe is good for. It isn't my only axe, but it's my primary axe for light duty and portable work. I also have a nice hatchet from Germany, but it's a bit less power in the hand and a bit less versatile. It's more like a stout tomahawk with a hatchet handle. Cheers.
You are so good at what you do. If any company picked took you up for R&D they would be gaining an invaluable asset. Thanks for all your in depth, well rounded, and reasonable reviews and demos.
Its what i am here for!
There are so many companies that i feel like i could help so much in five minutes, most of which i would help for free but 🤷🏻♂️
Excellent analysis. Tell it like it is. Thanks
Good review dude! Thanks for sharing your experience
Came for the hatchets but a huge fan of waist purses. Still have my first: a camo Outdoor Products fanny pack from the 80's. Trying to keep my collection under five🥴
Fanny pack ftw!
“Hung proud” which mushrooms the handle out over the head, creating another mechanical bond!
@@jamesnelson1443 👆🏻
Awesome review! Lots of details and knowledge. Thanks
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video and going into the details about each brand of axe. Although, I think it's pretty easy to judge Hardcore Hammers for what it truly is by simply going to their website. They're obviously trying so hard to appeal to the " Walking Dead zombie slayer wannabe" or the "Tacticool Call of Duty types" that you can't take them seriously as an actual tool maker for real men! The quality of their hatchets, as you've clearly shown, bares this fact out!
I have the honor of living about 30 miles from Council Tool. They make great axes. They also used to make tools for the turpentine and tar industry many many years ago.
I live about 2 hours from there... do they ever give tours?
@@jhoodly I'm honestly not sure but I would assume you could call them and find out. It's not a very large facility.
I learned a lot from your video. Thank you and good job!
Thanks!
Thanks for the review. Several of the reviews I was seeing for Hardcore Hammer was favorable on the head design but making note of the handle issues. I kept looking at the head thinking the top should be more forward as it's the part that is going to bite more.
Not sure I can justify that kind of expense on a hatchet since I don't have a lot of need these days, but every time I look at the stuff in the hardware store I grimace at the profile and edge thickness. Plus all the work stripping off the urethane coating from the head, let alone the handle.
I absolutely agree on all points. I REALLY wish Hardcore could square themselves away but at this point it seems like they are going to stand by their issues regardless of what anyone says, and they are almost proud of them.
I dont get it.
For what its worth a council like the flying fox is probably the best bang for the buck on the planet right now.
Great comparison, definitely need to pick up a good Council axe
Layne Staley is into bushcraft
I have never had a “fancy premium” axe. A bunch of Fiskars and Hultafors Brooks. These are not expensive but doing some modifications make them work horses. I learned when to use which and never felt I need more.
Thank you for beautiful comparison 🪓
Council tool is one of the few companies still making legitimate tools for Forrest service and emergency services. I'd expect them to be making things that work.
🎯🎯🎯
I've been wanting one of the council tool 18" pack axes.........I also really like the 24" velvi-cut hudson. The camp carver in a 16" would be great too. I'm torn between 2 tools for exact job's vs. the one 18" that can almost do both....with my budget I could get one premium and one in the 1060 steel. I really like their stuff though. Nothing against Gransfors but I own enough Swiss stuff. (P-226's) lol. Great stuff my friend.
They are all good!
I prefer the 24' pack axe to the 18"- the 18" is FANTASTIC but I just feel like with its head weight the 24" stick is better suited.
With that being said the camp carver is an entirely different axe. I absolutely love it.
I would be hard for me to say whether the camp carver or the 24" pack axe is my favorite.
I waited a good few years to treat myself to a Gransfors Bruk... Boy... Was I let down. It had chipping issues from what I'd assume was a bad heat treat; I also blame the use of recycled steel. It was chipping out during light half ass use. I tried to resharpen and blah blah blah and gave it a few tries, but it never got better. I returned it and never looked back. The one I had was the Wildlife Hatchet and it was a straight BOS. I'm also staying away from brands that use recycled steel after this experience. Oh well.... I'm planning on getting the Council Tool Wood-Craft Camp Carver to hopefully permanently replace the Gransfors Bruks.
Man that sucks!!!!!! The Camp Carver is fantastic!
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I'm hoping so.
Wow, glad i watched this. I have a couple gransfors and a few council tools but was almost about to buy a hardcore haatchet this morning. Definitely will not after seeing that handle
It's pretty gross
I agree with your assessments!
Hardcore blew it!
Council Tool is doing it right!
I have two Council Tool Velvicut axes. One is the 4 pound felling axe & the other is the Bad Boy Boys axe.
Also I have the 19 inch Council Tool Pak axe. All the above have super tough 5160 Steel. 5160 holds an edge & I have used all three extensively!
@@jamesnelson1443 💪🏻
You can DEF tell CT took inspiration from GBA for the woodcraft pack axe and camp carver… just like Hults Bruk/Hultafors has the Agdor line of American felling patterns (Michigan, etc)
This is Sweden Vs USA - would love to see Germany (helko Werk, Big Ox) Vs Sweden or Sweden (HB/Hultafors) Vs Sweden (GBA)
Unforunately this hobby is quite expensive, very quickly. So we understand not having access to all these axes LOL
Smart fellers over there at council….
I agree thinner handles are better. I have some hello werk axes that you pay a hefty price for them also come with thick handles I’ve rehung axes and also thinned handles that I didnt like. And also reprofile grinds. I have a hardcore hammers survivalist coming So I’ll make my own decisions if I like it or not. I enjoy doing that anyway. Don’t me me wrong I like your reviews. If I don’t like I can always move it out of my collection
I hope you enjoy it.
A lot of work can be enjoyable with axes, but if you pay a premium you shouldn't have to do the work. With how awful HCH's handle selection is I would bet once thinned it would break with use.
The real crime here imho is a VERY nice old carpenters hatchet with a hand selected handle from house handle co and a custom axe mask could all be had for less than $50 and it would take less work that the Survivalist to hang and sharpen than the survivalist would be to thin and reprofile and the end result would be better.
I can't imagine why HCH hasn't fixed the worn out toes on their design yet 😓
I've had the gransfors splitting maul for a long time. I wouldn't trade it for any other. It's an animal.
Those are cool!
While the three Council tool axes I have are excellent, with well-hung, beautifully aligned hafts, and admirably forged heads,
I have read a few reviews----with pics---which tell a different story.
So I wonder if lower quality seconds are sold to some retailers who then sell them at full price ?
I'll add that none of my CT axes are even the Velvicut models, But they are all as well made (if not polished) as any I've seen from any maker (excepting a few hand-made, very high priced , small shop models which are too expensive to actually use. I.e., collectibles). My comments refer to traditionally made steel/wood axes.
Its hard to say- council tools standard line has been sold continuously for decades with varying quality options being available.
I think Councils standard line is meant for the average user who just absolutely abuses their tools-
Lets be honest, the average guy who buys a cheap axe will never sharpen it, will chop into the ground with it, etc etc etc and if he breaks it he'll trash it and buy another instead of rehang.
When you are in THAT market the prices have to be low and something has to give.
I am confident that i could buy one of those lines of axes, i have one, and sharpen it and put it to work.
But it would be a lot nicer with a nicer handle.
Anyways, i think for the price they hit at the standard line, as you have experienced, they do a GREAT job.
But at their price point and for the average user at that price point...
Well they wont be a top grade off the shelf knife.
I LOVE my top grade council axes and my standard line- but they arent comparable and that makes sense- for the price they shouldnt be.
Great honest review on the Hardcore overpriced hatchet
Thanks for the content. I was looking at hardcore hammers products and also considering council tool but some of the Amazon reviews on council tool are blasting them for crappy quality lately. And great thoughts on hardcore hammers marketing zombie apocalypse hoarders in moms basement vs actual users.
So Amazon is actually selling not only fake councils but also axes that have been beat to heck. I just saw a post of a brutally fake council tool that someone got from amazon, its crazy.
You can make a handle smaller but never larger. But then runout is a serious defect. That grain orientation is fine though.
The Gransfors Bruk axe you have there is the Small Forest Axe with Ray Mears logo instead of Gransfors Bruk logo. It's not the Ray Mears Wilderness Axe. Also, Gransfors Bruk does make a Scandinavian Forest Axe that is comparable to your Council Tool Pack Axe. It has a 2 lb head with 25 inch handle. It's better for felling task than the Small Forest Axe. The main purpose of Small Forest Axe is for limbing and bushcraft tasks. It's design to be packable and lightweight to carry with you on your camping expedition. The size is what makes it popular with the Bushcraft Community. Small enough to carve with and big enough to chop small trees if you have to.
It has different dimensions than the sfa.
I have a yardsale plumb usa carpenters hatchet I picked up 15 years ago for 5 bucks at a yardsale and I use regularly which has better geometry and I would bet better steel for the purpose than the hard-core hammers hatchet.
A yardsale plumb is a great way to go!!!
CT Camp Carver (long strait handle) vs. CT Pack Axe analisis ..would be appreciated, usefull I guess.
I would love to play with one! (The 22" straight handled carver)
ive got a couple GB and hultafors was just about to buy the hardcore hammer survivalist but was worried with the blade orintation myself i wish i think ppl just want somthing that can hammer metal without damagin the axe i would love to hear ur opinon on the new camp companion axe with hardcore hammers the seemed to have fixed the blade profile but now i am worried about the handle as it comes to over $300 CAD with shiping
It looks good because for the most part it's a copy of the council tool Camp Carver.
I'll do a review I'm sure soon but I have very low expectations. I can't imagine why HH is so arrogant about their designs for all these years then when they decide to drop a decent axe it's a rip off 😓
My “marbles” 18$, 18” hand forged hatchet has a great handle like council does, thin and curvy, holds an edge pretty well and looks just like these 100-200$ axes. Check them out. Save some $$. It’s obviously modeled after the GB and council.
That sounds cool!
You could always thin down the handle and make it too the the thickness you like. If you like the axe head. I highly doubt the handle would break on a hatchet
That's just thing thing-
#1- you shouldn't have to do that at this price, and it is MUCH harder to do RIGHT than most people think anyways. Although most people don't know what right is it would take a few hours to do- what is YOUR time worth?
#2- the head isn't worth it
The old guys here in the NE USA seem to favor Council
So far, I’ve bought three council tool axes and they were all bare wood. Two premium and that hatchet. No oil finish, good axes though,,,
Hhhmmmm, i feel like they have some oil in them at least just to preserve them...
But bare wood is the way to go!
I have the grans fur large field axe. I feel that would be a better comparison to the council. Now I need to buy a bouncing after seeing this
The large field axe is considerably larger and heavier.
But yeah once you get a premium CT it's a game changer 💪🏻
Great video! You just saved me from some hardcore hammer click bate. What was the black rifle coffee comment about? I didn’t quite catch that.
I have a whole Playlist about brcc. It's a lot.
Good review. I appreciate that you tried to fairly compare dissimilar tools I think you did well. I’m looking at Condor’s cloudburst axe. 23” 1.5# head (from memory). Significantly cheaper than the others. Perhaps not “premium” but I suspect a good competitor. Any experience with the Condors? Thanks
My only experience with condor has been with knives but i felt they ht their 1075 unnecessarily soft and have thick edges and sometimes poor qc
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors that’s definitely not “premium.” I have one of their bushcraft knives. I love it but don’t have a comparison. I’d love to spend 15-20 minutes with a few of these….thanks for the vids
@@just-dl my pleasure! I want to clarify that i wouldnt say that condor is BAD, and i do like some of what they do.
I have NO DOUBT that your bushcraft knife is good- but i might prefer a mora or a hultafors for value and quality.
And i just want to say that because sometimes people think my tone is condescending and i am saying more than i type- im not.
So i just wanted to make sure that was up front.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I hear ya. Text-only communication leaves out tone and non-verbal elements. Easy to be “mis-heard.” When it comes to value, Mora is hard to beat. I have a $20 companion. And it puts up with a lot. It’s not my favorite. (It is my daughter’s favorite!) but, I’ll sing it’s praises any time for “bang for the buck.” Some of what I’m looking for is really subjective. So, when I see something that says “this guy thinks like I do” then that’s an opinion I seek out. They way you addressed value, when a head to head comparison wasn’t possible, well, that rang a bell. I may end up buying two and selling one. Or, I might have two! I have a hard time saying goodbye to any edged tool…there’s probably a medical term for that….thanks for the conversation! ~Dan
@@just-dl hahaha i know the feeling!!!
My pleasure!
The only ones here that really qualify as “premium” are the CTs, given they use 5160 (and they actually say so in their listings). Most other elements of an axe are subjective to one degree or another…but 5160 is genuinely superior to most steels most manufacturers use for most axes. And it’s an integrity offering, given that they actually tell you what the steel is. If you’re going to charge a premium price, you really should be honest about what you’re selling.
@@goodwolf152 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻
Any thoughts on the council tool's press fitting of their heads? Many people say the heads always come loose with time & use.
Hhmmmmm i havent had any of their premium line come loose- they are left proud and well hung.
The commercial affordable line might come loose, i think one of mine maybe had, but i dont remember if i tightened it up or if i only notice it when chopping locusts, its been awhile.
Regardless, all handles should be press fit, even liam hoffman presses handles.
suggestion : when you get it new whack the handle with a hammer about three times, carve off the peeled up handle curles and re-seat the wedgeLock......pretty much fixes any probs....what happens is they make them way ahead, and the handle dries slightly, and then loosens....not a big problem....OnWard.......
First off I think the Council Tool axes are the best deal on the market in a quality tool. Their handles, the quality of their steel and the hardened polls put them in a class all by themselves. However I don't think the Gransfors are out of the competition. While I don't think by "mystery steel" they mean they don't know what's in it they just aren't telling what it is. Kind of corny on their part and it really looks like and attempt to hide the fact that their steel is not in the same class as Council Tools is.
In the meantime the Council Tool Pack Axe is my next purchase.
For the mystery steel, it likely also probably has something to do with their eco comminism over there, although they advertised mystery steel "before it was cool"
But for what its worth by advertising mystery steel they can use l6, 80crv2, 1080, 1084, 5160, 8670, 52100, or who knows how many other steels and the consumer would never know.
All they have to do is leave the edge a bit thick, which they do and boom- always has the cheapest stuff when they need it.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors - There is really no reason for anyone to feel compelled to buy the Gransfors axes anymore. Council Tools just keeps on upgrading their products and at this point they are leading the field in my opinion. Better handles, better steel and hardened polls. Hard to beat that.
@@Bkellyusa 100%!
The Hardcore Hatchet is patterned after a classic carpenter's half-hatchet with a heavily worn toe. Old heads on new handles would be leagues better.
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Well done review! Thanks
(I kind of get tired of people cumming about granfors bruks, there are lots of good axe companies)
I agree.
I mean... they are good but...
Uh...
Its 2022 lol
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors
Right, GB has a good design but so does alot of other companies. The coolest part about GB is that they are still hand forged but on a factory scale level, yet many blacksmiths today could forge a great axe if they know what they're doing and they could even tell you the steel type after lol
@@williamsdesigning1949 i dont believe they are hand forged like most people think- they have a forging machine as i understand it and a person moves the head from one die to the next. With that being said there are a lot of AMAZING forgers making axes out there!
I have the misfortune on going on the hype train of Gransfors Bruk axes and hatchets. Ain’t nothing to bad with them, but the price was not worth what the axe and hatchet I bought for. Then I discovered Council Tools, now those tools are worth the price. In my opinion
I agree!
I almost went with Gransfors Bruks until I seen recent videos about problems with their steel and their metals are recycled so I went with a Council Tool 24”, 2# forest pack axe with superior steel.
@@blainwilson7937how do you like it? I'm looking at the council tools velvicut 24" Hudson bay
@@wardog5537
Council Tool offers excellent choices at competitive prices and uses top grade steel and I love my pack axe from them.
My Hults Bruk premium is way superior to my Gransfors in terms of fit, finish, alignment, grind consistency, mask, just about everything.
Handle grain orientation plays way less of a role than people think. Liam Hoffman did some testing and they hold up nearly the same with grain doing whatever. Jus sayin.
@jimmylarge1148 runout is more important- but runout is a bigger issue and more common with grain of the wrong orientation.
I’ll stay with my plumber explorer axe from the 60 ties
if you email gransfors they will tell you it is recycled steel most comparable to 1055. fine simple steel, but i do like 5160 better
Their older axes were made with 5160. I still have my original Gransfors that I’ve had for the past 20 years made in 5160. I miss wetterlings. I own a few wetterlings made of 5160 as well. Hardcore hammers makes an awesome modern day axe. Anyone who knows anything about 4130 chromoly steel knows it’s a steel that will last a lifetime of beating.
@@pubplays368 I wonder when they switched from 5160 to 1095ish. A few of mine are 15iah years old.
Council tool makes some premium axes in 5160
You know hardcore hammers might not be the best axe but I still like the aesthetic appeal of them
I think thats their goal.
I certainly appreciate the aesthetic appeal of some of their models as well.
Fantastic review I learned a lot!!!
who would ever tought of a fake background😂. its a lot easier to film outside than editing sh8
🎯
I vote A2 for mystery steel.
I wish
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors It SHOULD be cheap, if economic forces were different. It's an O.G. steel, imho, and the new breeds have displaced it.
I use axes for wood processing NOT for felling...just use a saw...I wish they made a decent splitting axe with REAL cheeks
Hawk tua!
The grain orientation on the handle of that Hardcore Hammers hatchet was absolutely *AWFUL.*
Yup, rubbish
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors yeah, sorry if my comment came across as me being snarky or hating. It’s just that if these guys wanna be taken seriously as ‘high-end’ wooden-handled tool makers, then they need to get, at the very *LEAST,* grain orientation of the wooden handles down. And yet it’s an *ABYSMALLY* simple concept. And sometimes, even Gransfors drops the ball on grain orientation of their hafts - and they’re the so-called ‘Creme de la Creme’ brand name for woodsmen-oriented axes and tools. You’d think that if you’re gonna charge $400+ for a wooden-handled tool, then your knowledge about *EVERY ASPECT* of the tool (not just the head) would be top-notch - and your QC would reflect that knowledge and commitment to putting out an axcellent product *EVERY* time. The only brand I’ve heard of that actually makes sure their hafts have good grain orientation *EVERY* time is Council Tools - and the trade-off for that is that they hydraulically seat their axes onto the handles without first grinding in a chamfer bevel into the interior of the socket on the bottom end. So you’ve got these 90-degree sharp bottom portions of the interiors of these axe sockets being hydraulically forced down onto a *WOODEN* handle - and that causes shelving on the wooden handle - and that’s *ALSO* a big no-no, because shelving leads to splintering and eventual breakage. Why is it ALWAYS a game of trade-offs with high-end axes, man? Yes, the axe *HEADS* by Council can’t be beat. Differentially heat treated 5160 spring steel is an *EXCELLENT* choice for your Woodcraft line of tools. That’s a *damn* good steel, and a *damn* good heat treatment. I love the Scandi grinds on them, too. But then, in my eyes, you do *ALL* of this other great shit… and then piss the bed *HARD* by not grinding in either a rounded bevel or a simple chamfer bevel on the interiors of the bottom part of the socket, so that when you go to hydraulically seat the tool, the sharp socket doesn’t cause shelving on that *BEAUTIFUL* axe handle. So now, all of your products get delivered with shelving on the handles, right under the bottom portion of the socket. Cryin, *CRYIN* shame.
@MrAlexH1991 so of a higher end production axe my expectations depend on the cost.
At maybe around $100ish from a "premium" brand I don't expect PERFECT grain orientation AND a nice grind on a nice head that is nicely seated-
But I do expect everything to be DECENT. The Hardcore Hatchet has department store grain that is not only horizontal but also WIDE. That handle is poorly shaped and poo poo in general.
Like you I think Council Tool is by a long shot the best in the business- does their premium line have that same issue with the shelf? It's been awhile but I felt for some reason like they did not.
But yeah, you are on the money.
Hardcore Hammers / Hatchets and Hardcore Hardware are different companies and not affiliated. Hardcore Hammers is an American company based out of Hillsboro Illinois. Hardcore Hardware is of course Austrialian.
Yeah, i use them both a lot so im guessing i slipped up.
I struggle with things that similar sometimes.
Look, I understand you have some opinions on the hardcore brand of hatchets. But out of all the axes you showcased here. That hardcore hatchet made from 4140 chromoly steel will outlast every other axe here by miles it’s not even a comparison. You don’t seem to have any knowledge on chromoly steel or what it was designed for. Chromoly is an impact steel used in things like commercial airplanes, fighter jets, tanks, and even more applicable items like BMX bikes, gorilla cages, etc. Things that will get thrashed and take a beating. With that alone, I would take the hardcore hatchet over the others any day as 5160 spring steel doesn’t even compared to chromoly steel in terms of durability. I bought the corporals corner hatchet from hardcore hammers and did a rehandle myself. It’s not the most ergonomic hatchet out of the box but after some mods I quite like it. I used to carry my Les stroud wetterlings axe before this and still use it from time to time. It’s important to fully educate ourselves about the things we share so that others can make an educated decision on something they want to purchase. We as people tend to get far too hung up on personal opinions instead of discussing things from the perspective of an open mind.
Wow...
Way to gaslight yourself lol
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors You clearly don’t understand what that word means. Using a term coined by the modern day feminist just makes you look foolish. I wasn’t expecting an educated response anyways based on how you handle yourself. Yet here I was hoping you might have an open mind.
Your fanny pack looks alot like a Sporan and it's worn in the same location.
I have never heard of sporan but I do think most fanny packs are worn in a similar way- I'll be finally reviewing this pack (I bought a second as well) soon. The operation of the pack for ccw is unlike anything else I have seen and it has been a game changer for me!
@Jacob_Beach_Peterson bro I have been following you for so many years. I just changed my yt handle since I lost my other account
@@Hammer1978 gotcha! I looked up the sporan, and the design is actually somewhat similar.
@Jacob_Beach_Peterson Jacob you have some of the best videos put there. Have you thought of ever doing a video series in comparison type? Like your old chopping videos?
@@Hammer1978 i actually have one in the works!!! It's been too long!
In theory council tools is a great buy. In reality, they will not send you good working axes. Council tool will actively send you downgraded axes over the internet such as Amazon or eBay. I'm 5 axes in and so far all returned for major problems out the box.
That sounds like a resaler on amazon or ebay
Are you under the delusion that Gransfors Bruk doesn't know the exact grade of recycled 'swedish' steel they're using? ROFLMAO, that's simply impossible for even ordering steel from a standard mill. Secondly, do you really think they don't have a standardised heat treat recipe that they use? Okayyyyyyy. Serious, what is this the middle ages pre industrialisation? Thirdly, a percentage of most ingot steels (1075, 1055, 5160, 4140) is already recycled so as an example say 10-30% of the iron used by say X mill comes from recycled sources, so if they produce 5160 then it's recycled steel but still has a grade which is 5160 (I am trying to be as clear as possible from an engineering POV as you're literally putting out misinformation here). The GFBs have a design style that might not suit you, sure, it might not be optimal even, possible, but your explanation for why that is being done by them is just ludicrious.
All questions answered in the video you are commenting on- if you could afford to pay attention.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors misinformation being called answers, interesting.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors they've been doing things exactly the
19:26
same for so long I think they've become
19:29
stagnant Metallurgy has come so far uh
19:32
grants for
19:34
having a mystery steal and admitting
19:37
that it's recycled is a bad move
19:40
it is a bad move
19:44
um you can recycle steel sure but
19:46
recycle it to an exact specification
19:50
make it 5160 or 4140 or 10.55 or
19:55
whatever you want to make it but quality
19:57
comes in heat treat and you can never
19:59
have perfect heat treat if you have
20:01
mystery steel so using a recycled steel
20:04
and not ordering ordering it to a
20:07
specific recipe just like you would cook
20:09
a specific recipe
20:11
uh means that their heat treat can't be
20:13
as good which means that they have to
20:15
have slightly thicker edge geometry so
20:18
you've got a slightly thick Edge
This is literally what you're saying, it's ludicrous.
'The steel that Gränsfors Bruk uses has been specially created to produce the perfect axe head. The steel must not be too hard, nor too soft and pliable.
Gränsfors Bruk maintains a constant dialogue with Ovako to secure its supply of steel best suited to axe production.'
Now this ^^^ is what GFB says directly on their site. The steel is supplied to their specifications, that implies a grade or atleast a known composition if you have any idea how a Steel mill works, even bog basic 1060 for example needs to have a defined carbon and manganese content with an upper limit for say sulphur and phosphorus (very important for the mechanical properties of a steel) which means they have a standardised heat treat. This isn't rocket science.
@adrianjagmag cool story. Glad to hear the local sycophant get riled up, silliness in the comments section is good for analytics 👌🏻
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoorsanalytics it seems, roflmao. What an excuse.
I could be wrong but it’s my suspicion the GB axe you have is not the ray mears wilderness axe. It’s super confusing they way they brand all the GB stuff, but that axe appears to be a GB small forest axe. Ray mears sells all the GB axes with his name on them (which adds to the confusion). The real wilderness axe is only sold on his website and is 24” long like the council tool pack axe and has the ears trimmed down. I do own both the pack axe and wilderness axe and they are roughly identical size and weight.
You see the confusion is this says ray mears bushcraft or w/e on the handle, and it has the SFA looking ears- but the SFA i think has a longer handle...
I was looking between the two models and this one and just shaking my head.
Idk man.
Hardcore HAMMERS!!!! 🤦♂️
👏🏻
There is a bit of misinformation here when you refer to GBA steel as "mystery steel". Recycled steel does not mean they do not know the metallurgy of the steel. I already see a comment bashing the company for using "cheap steel" because of your comment. It seems your intentions to help others before their purchase is good but you are not being completely honest with your knowledge. If you are unsure, it would probably be in your best interest to just state that. Blessings :)
The one spreading misinformation is you.
If recycled steel is recycled into a perfect formula of a standard steel then you can just advertise it as such.
But they dont- they only advertise "recycled steel" which is in fact Mystery steel.
Which is why they have thicker edges.
👌🏻
In fact i find it ironic that you come here to claim calling recycled steel mystery steel is misinformation and yet you can't supply what the steel is 😅😅🤣🤣
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I see you do not take well to constructive criticism. It is very close to 1055 with some minor difference. It is a proprietary steel for GBA. They don’t release the exact data for that reason. The important factor is they, like many successful companies of a good product, will continue to produce and provide a quality. Think of it as a grandmas secret spaghetti sauce. I hope you can read this without taking great offense to your pride because this and my previous post have nothing but good intention to help you. Not tear you down. Sorry if it came across that way to you.
It's proprietary steel near 1055 based on what evidence?
Still sounds like a mystery 😅😅🤣🤣
And do you know how silly a "proprietary steel" is when anyone can do a composition test when they want to?
In the US it costs $40, I'll be doing one myself.
To further add to the silliness Mora refers to their steel as recycled but still specifies that it is 12c27.
I handle constructive criticism very well, I do however correct silliness.
It seems to me that you don't handle constructive criticism well 👌🏻
"Think of it as grandma's secret recipe"
You mean grandma's recipe is a MYSTERY!?
🤣🤣😅😅
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors Good luck with your channel. I hope your text results will bring you closure. More importantly, I hope you discover that not everyone is out to get you in life. Some are here to help. God bless
I agree with the commenter. There's a difference in using recycled steel that is analyzed and formulated to a spec versus using what comes out from the smelter randomly, and while GB does the former you are stating what they do as the latter. It's not "mystery steel" junk, which is what you're implying. And, no one is complaining about GB steel. Their axes hold an edge and can readily be sharpened. There is no difference in service life. All decent axe makers use steel of sufficient quality to be fit for purpose... GB, HB/Hultafors/Husqvarna, CT, Cold Steel, even Marbles with their Latin American and Indian-sourced axes. What differentiates these axes and manufacturers is the quality of design and workmanship. Less expensive axe heads are often cast, not forged, but better steels and hardening makes them acceptable. The hand-forged Swedish axes are more expensive because it takes skilled employees who have to make a reasonable living in a Developed World country to make them... and forging makes for a denser, stronger, and more durable axe head.
To effectively evaluate an axe, you have to first understand if its design goals match your intended use. The GB SFA was designed for portability and use in hunting and camping. It is great for bucking limbs, felling small trees, splitting an elk pelvis or cutting the limbs at the joints, splitting that limb or small tree you bucked, etc. It's not the ultimate tree felling tool; pick up a CT 3lb Dayton pattern axe with a 36" haft and chop away.
It's all about tradeoffs, what each individual wants and is willing to put up with. My CT has good raw materials but the handle isn't smooth and well-finished and the axe was dull... nothing that a few minutes with a file, puck, 200‐grit sandpaper and some BLO didn't fix. The GBs and HB axes are fine out of the wrapper. If I didn't have a Norlund Voyageur the close copy CT Velvicut HB hand axe looks interesting.
Video: 👏 … Spitting on camera : 🤦🏻♂️🤮
Could of done without the loogy 🤮
Me too- thats why i hocked it out
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors bwaa ha ha ha ha 🤣
It’s not hardware hammers it’s hardcore hammer SMH
Wow.
You almost had it.
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors your mispronunciation and misspelling makes the video unwatchable
@@TexasNationalist1836 how ironic
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors have fun making low quality content
@TexasNationalist1836 have fun making low quality comments, and low quality products 🤣🤣🤣
Could have sworn this video was supposed to be about axes - not someone's face from 12" away. Yuck. Big thumbs down.
Somebody is being cheap with their trolls apparently 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for helping with the algorithm though
Why did you leave that in the video? Disgusting 🤢
Because my videos are real, not sterilized to suit people's sensitivity
Between getting the name of the Hardcore Hammer wrong and leaving in the snort and spit that you did in the beginning of the video it is difficult to really take your reviews seriously.
Luckily i dont care much how seriously you take the video- go find yourself a nicely edited infomercial to take seriously 😂🤣😅
Steel junkies around the world, unite!!!