Thats how i do it. Im a 5th generation free hand sharpener a skill past down father to son dating back to my lineage in Hamburg, Germany. Knives, axes, swords, scissors, machetes, sickles, chisels, plainer blades, every and anything with an edge and ofcourse i hone and use on mynown face strictly Dovo German straighr razors. I use PFERD files made in German they are the very best made today. If you get on ebay and get new old stock USA made Nicholson, simond, or Gorbet they are good too i have no problem buying those as some newer PFERD files are expensive when you get up to like a 14" mill file that's a cut 3. I use japanese made naniwa ceramic whetstones, as well as diamond stones for super steels, hone cones for concave edges i have both in diamond and ceramic, various ceramic rod sizes as well as diamond rod sizes for serrated knives. When sharpen an axe depending on how bad i start with a cut 1 mill file, then a cut two then a cut 3. Then i go to an 800grit ceramic and if i want it to shave with sharp i will hit it on a 1000grit stone then leather strop it. By that point checking the sharpness and using the damn thing will make the hair stand up on the backnof your neck. Hell you can cut paper with them. Thats how i like to do my old Mann Double bit made in Lewistown, Pennsylvania long time ago. Its for after i fell a hemlock with one of my big Stihl chainsaws instead of going up and down bucking with the chainsaw a good man with a sharp double bit can do it faster taken each limb off one swipe at a time. I find the wranglestar guy mentioned above to basically not really be an expert about anything he tries to talk about and basically pushes false knowledge and improper skills on your average home owner living in a development in the suburbs who doesn't know any better. They unfortunately getbon youtube and see a guy with no neighbors who talks about something they no nothing about then automatically think he is a genius who knows what he is doing when unfortunately and sadly its quite the opposite
Thank you Thank you so much for this. I have been searching for videos that show how to profile an axe, and none of them gave me the information I wanted. Until I found you! I recently got hooked into the sport of axe throwing, and absolutely LOVE it. I have learned that the majority of affordable axes have a rather large speed bump that makes it counterintuitive for throwing, so they need to be profiled for them to work better. This was absolutely awesome. Thank you so so much!!
I bought a vintage plumb recently and hated to sharpen into the patina but I do appreciate your help getting my edge right. Something I learned from Buckin Billy Ray is when you hold the edge up to a light if you can see any light reflecting then the edge isn’t sharp enough.
You all prolly dont care but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Caden Tate I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi Dustin, a nice video again. I have never seen how to give the form to an axe, and I could see it from the master. Greetings from Spain Dustin. Take care!!
Thanks Brother! That thickness depends on what you intend to use the axe for. If you’re splitting, it will be thicker in the cheeks, and if you’re felling/bucking, thinner. I think I had about 1/8 or so behind the initial 25 degree bevel. Imagine a close up of a micro bevel on a convex saber grind. You want some meat behind that edge for strength and durability, and it needs to be able to cut deep, and pop chips. (I love talking axes😉)
This was such a well-done video. Really appreciate it. As you were drawing the profile on paper I had a thought about grinding bevels. I’ve seen a lot of old timers, and black and white factory videos of axes being sharpened on huge grinding stones. They would rock the ax back-and-forth to get the convex profile. Now pretty much everything runs on a beltgrinder, and it’s much harder to rock the ask for a convex profile. Going out on a limb here, but I wonder if that’s why I’m seeing more and more Scandinavian grinds on axes, but I can’t recall ever seeing one of those grinds on a vintage ask with the exception of Carpenter hatchets.
Couple things...love that grinder and the progression of grinders you used. Also are you wearing pants under that apron?? 😁 I’m not so sure. 3-in-one oil is Proooooooo! Love this one guys. Mucho love from House / Work
I like to file my axes and sand to a semi gloss luster. You can see exactly where you are, and zero chance of overheat. Lots of work, time and practice, but worth it.
I agree with you totally. I’ve done my fair share of file sharpening, and there is a time and place for each technique. This one is fast and dirty, but get the job done really well if you are careful. Thanks!
New subscriber here, glad I came across your channel. Can you please tell me more about the stropping setup you used in this video? I’d like to add that to my shop.
For stropping I use an old worn belt, flipped over so the paper side is out, and I apply polishing compound to it. That is a belt on my small Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander.
Great video! Can you address the questions regarding the inclusive edge angle? A 25-degree angle seems way too thin in practice. I am sure it is sharp though. This was a great tutorial. Thank you.
You truly are a master of your craft friend...i wish I had your shop! Any suggestions you could make on a pack axe? One that doesn't cost an arm and leg? I'm very jealous of your sweet axe wall...would very much like one of them! Cheers on the video...now to acquire all the tools you have to make the axe lol
I have the Gransfors Bruk forest axe and I'm trying to get it shave sharp again while maintaining the convex. It gets more blunt the more I try to sharpen it. What am I doing wrong? Too steep or too rounded of an edge? I use the 240/400 puck than move up to a diamond stone with last step on 3000 wet/dry sandpaper. Looks polished but dull.
I'm new to your channel, having bought a cheap hatchet to learn with. Does the profile geometry work the same for hatchets as axes, where you lay the hatchet edge down and the profile should be centered on the floor?
Awesome video. Love your shop and tools. I’ve got a couple old Collins co axes with straight bits similar to that. Strange that they seemed to send them out like that for the user to then do just what you did
but the straight,not curved axe ,is for splitting wood by placing it on top of the wood, and hammering it through the wood with a wood hammer, sorry about clumpy english, its not my native language
I wish I had a shop like that but I suppose field sharpening is a great skill to have. I’ve done some pretty ugly stuff trying to free hand with an angle grinder.
I moved onto a 120 year old cattle ranch last year. There must be at least 8 or 10 rusty axes laying around ( or more I haven't laid eyes on yet). How can I tell which ones are quality and which are not?
Check for any makers marks first. This will at least give you some where to start. If you don’t see any, or think they might be covered up with rust and grime, use a wire wheel or some sandpaper and WD-40 and hit the cheeks on both sides of the head. Most makers marks will be on the side of the axe that faces you while you’re holding it in your right hand, but there are exceptions to that rule so check both sides. If you find a Kelly/true temper, Plum, Collins, Council, or Norland, They might have some resale value. There are lots of other great makers of axes, and if these are all axes, pre-dating the mid 70s or earlier, then they will most likely be made of quality steel. That basically means that every axe that you have should be a quality piece, but may or may not have any significant resale value.
When you lay the head edge down and are trying to grind it it so that it lays in the middle,how are you grinding/adjusting to get itto the middle. Are you taking material off off the heal of the edge ?
I love your videos, just would like to ask something. Isnt it safer to sharpen a heat treated axe with a wet grinder? I know you dip the metal in water, but still.. why is this grinding more suitable for you? And another thing: Ive seen other videos, where axes were sharpened on bench grinders, which was a major no no for lots of commenters. Isnt this the same? Sorry if I am asking dub questions, trying to learn as much as I can..
First of all, no real question is a dumb question. As far as sharpening, I always sharpen on belt grinders, dipping in water after a few passes, and have never had a bit over heat on me. I also often will do this same method, along with many knife makers, to grind heat treated blades. A water wheel/grinder would be favorable, but I don’t think necessary. A bench grinder spins a LOT faster than a belt grinder, and would have the possibility of over heating you axe much quicker than a belt grinder.
I love using my puck, but I’ve got to get down to the edge first. I’ve done lots of different techniques over the years, and love them all. Once they are sharp, I keep them that way with my puck👍🏼. Thanks
I just sent a Collins Legitimus 3 1/2 lb double bit off to Brant & Cochran in Maine last week for a complete restoration. I’ll be curious to see how their polished edges compare with yours. Gotta get me a belt grinder. How wide a belt do you like?
I’d love to see how it turns out. I have used my 1x30 just as successfully as my 2x72, to grind and sharpen heads from start to finish. Once you have the grinder, you just need to learn the tool.
Thank you for such an informative video. I have a question. I have been profiling axes and hatchets for a friend of mine that currently is rated # 10 in the world for axe throwing. It takes me 20 plus hours to profile an axe head, from a fat cheeked splitting axe to one that has a 3/16th wide cheek. It takes me 20 plus hours to profile and sharpen and polish. I can send you some pictures. My question is, do you have a quicker process to do this? I was thinking of the old style knife sharpener from the 50s and 60s, where you have opposing grinding wheels, but on a much larger scale. Maybe two opposing grinding discs, coolant flooded. Set it to the programmed angle, and let it grind to a pre specified thickness and relief angle. Does such a machine exist?
I will send you pictures if you can give me an email address. Thank you! My name is Steven Avis. My email is avis .steve@gmail.com. I currently hold one patent. If I don't hear from you, have a great and safe thanksgiving!
What ever happened to using a wet mill stone grit wheel, no sparks or heating. I never use a grinder on my vintage tools, perhaps because I was taught by my Gt Uncle who went through WW1 and WW2 . Same for kitchen knives.
I agree that a wet stone would be the better avenue. This way has worked really well for me. That’s also the reason I mentioned several times to keep the steel cool by quenching often👍🏼.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thanks, good reply. Suppose I must get modern one day, it's difficult to find a small willing child (me in the past) to turn the handle on an old stone wet wheel these days!!
Hey brother! I agree with Stephen, and Dave. The HF 1x30 has served me well over the years. My 2x72 is a Revolution grinder from Brian House at House Work on YT. He has awesome plans, and kits to purchase and build your own. He also has a ton of videos on the design, and how to build them. If you have the know how, you could probably spend half the price of a new grinder building one from Brian’s kit and plans. You can also check them out on his web site, housemade.us.
Here is a link to the two pack. You can save a total of $2 by buying two instead of one. Can’t beat that, and if you have a spot for one, you will definitely have a spot for two😉.
@8:40 there are quite some diagonal indentations to see , don't they act as "speed-bumps" as well, why didn't you remove them at first? Would like to SEE it cut paper and wood.
Just subscribed to your channel, watched a few now , planning on making a birch wood axe handle, I've noticed you have a lot of axes , would you sell me a few of them?
Iheard this before, but checking where the bit touches can't be an accurate measurement. A more pronounced fawns foot at the bottom of your handle which never comes close to your grip and makes no difference in the handling can influence that angle, maybe I'm overthinking it but just something I always thought.
Mesquite is really pretty but very brittle for use as an axe. I have mesquite all over the place at the house but I mostly use it for smoking...which is FANTASTIC!
@@usfaaartillerist yeah i figure as much as so. Have been wondering if anyone has been able to pull it off but that makes sense seeing as how hard it is. I have an old ka-bar knife that im restoring. Has plastic grip handles and i want to do mesquite grips instead. Changing it from a tactical knife to more of a survival knife. The tip was broken so i had to re-profile the tip the best i could with hand tools.
Mesquite would not be the best for axe handles, but you use what you have when needs must😉. If you have a supply, I might suggest getting some 3/4 hickory, and sandwiching it between two pieces of mesquite. And as USF mentioned, it would make great knife handle scales. Good luck. The K-Bar project sounds awesome.
4:17 The angle is actually 50° between the two lines, not 25°. If you grind the blade 25° on each side, you end up with a 50° wedge. In order to have a 25° wedge, you'll have to grind 12.5° on each side and ¿wouldn't that be a very thin wedge for an axe?
I am wondering basically the same thing. Was that 25 degrees inclusive or per side. Like you, I assume he means 25 degrees per side for an inclusive angle of 50 degrees.
Title: How to shape and sharpen an axe. Video: Concise 10 minute video walking you through the entire process. I've seen enough click bait videos to know that this must be a trick! Good job though, it was enjoyable for me and I live in a city with no workshop and no use for axes (although I want to buy several for reasons)
Lol. To be honest, the thumbnail is our “click bait” but the title tells the truth😉. I’ve got a reason for you... they’re the oldest tool of man kind. Can’t go wrong with preserving history.
A bucket of water? Just water? Or do you mean you have a salt brine consisting of nitrate based or chlorine based salts? For those who do not know, Plain water, air or oil won’t do. Why? Because the salt brine prevents air blankets and air globules as well as cooling the steel much more evenly. Be well. Have fun.
I wouldn't even use water or anything. Unless you're getting over 300 degrees , it doesn't matter. Unless you're doing some hard grinding , reprofiling the whole head . The bulk of the head will absorb a lot of heat . No need to not be able to touch it. Knives are a totally different story. Water is fine for cooling a little. There's no forging temperatures being reached. Forging 1095 steel , I use straight vegetable oil. Axes are around 1050 to 1060.
Noooooo, don’t straighten that bit. So hard to find straight bits anymore. Those of us who chop with axes will pay good money for those, just ever so rounded at the toe and heel. Also 25 degrees is fine for splitting, but if you want to do anything else with it don’t be afraid to slash that angle way back. I keep most of mine at 17-19 degrees. No problems. As always though, we’ll done mate.
Sorry bud, I like the time you put in and the passion, but you remove too much material and your method requires more material to be removed on subsequent sharpenings. Im not referring to the reshaping - which is a cool method and a good guideline for people who don't know where to start, the reshaping is necessary but honestly I have never seen an axe sharpened so poorly that gets a flat edge like that. In a nutshell you lost me at the power sander and the angle stuff. Use and axe and you'll know what angle works best...remove too much material and you shorten the life of the blade.....that's false economy. Cheers and keep up the cool vids.
Thanks for your thoughts. This one had quite a thin bit to start with, so I wanted to keep that geometry. I also usually prefer more of a convex grind on my axes, but this little beauty is a laser now 😉😁.
okay, but why would you always want a rounded profile? If the axe was made with a square profile, there must have been a reason. Why do you have so many axes? If they've all got the same profile, then they're principally all the same and do the same job, so why so many? I have had axes with many profiles, they're made for different jobs.
They are made for different jobs, but I prefer to use them for wood, so I put a rounded profile on mine. So many? I don’t have nearly enough😉😂. I’m a collector, and love to restore old axes, so I buy them from yard sales and flea markets all the time. There is a certain mystique about restoring and using the oldest tool from mankind. I can’t get enough. I’m an Axe Junkie.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship then you need to make one out of stone, flint perhaps. Those would be the earliest type. Me, I see nothing but work when I see an axe. Mostly I used a double bit back in the day. weird story, I was at an auction. They had a LOT of hand tools, axes, rakes, you name it, if it was a hand tool of the sort it was in the bunch. they kept adding to the row of tools because no one would even offer a 2 dollar minimum bid. So I finally did and got a ton of yard tools, axes and the like for 2 bucks. Oddly, though no one would offer 2 dollars on the lot, guys lined up behind me to pay two dollars per tool. I kept what I wanted, and sold all the rest for 2 dollars each, made about 80 bucks on the deal, and still had the few tools I wanted. Never did understand that one.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
I’d love to see a video from you on how to sharpen an axe manually with files and stones.
Watch Wranglerstar! - Or "An axe to grind Hnaging and Sharpening" by Wild Alabama
Thats how i do it. Im a 5th generation free hand sharpener a skill past down father to son dating back to my lineage in Hamburg, Germany. Knives, axes, swords, scissors, machetes, sickles, chisels, plainer blades, every and anything with an edge and ofcourse i hone and use on mynown face strictly Dovo German straighr razors. I use PFERD files made in German they are the very best made today. If you get on ebay and get new old stock USA made Nicholson, simond, or Gorbet they are good too i have no problem buying those as some newer PFERD files are expensive when you get up to like a 14" mill file that's a cut 3. I use japanese made naniwa ceramic whetstones, as well as diamond stones for super steels, hone cones for concave edges i have both in diamond and ceramic, various ceramic rod sizes as well as diamond rod sizes for serrated knives. When sharpen an axe depending on how bad i start with a cut 1 mill file, then a cut two then a cut 3. Then i go to an 800grit ceramic and if i want it to shave with sharp i will hit it on a 1000grit stone then leather strop it. By that point checking the sharpness and using the damn thing will make the hair stand up on the backnof your neck. Hell you can cut paper with them. Thats how i like to do my old Mann Double bit made in Lewistown, Pennsylvania long time ago. Its for after i fell a hemlock with one of my big Stihl chainsaws instead of going up and down bucking with the chainsaw a good man with a sharp double bit can do it faster taken each limb off one swipe at a time. I find the wranglestar guy mentioned above to basically not really be an expert about anything he tries to talk about and basically pushes false knowledge and improper skills on your average home owner living in a development in the suburbs who doesn't know any better. They unfortunately getbon youtube and see a guy with no neighbors who talks about something they no nothing about then automatically think he is a genius who knows what he is doing when unfortunately and sadly its quite the opposite
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote oh yeah?
Same here.
This video should have 300k views...just incredible...great job
Thank you Thank you so much for this. I have been searching for videos that show how to profile an axe, and none of them gave me the information I wanted. Until I found you! I recently got hooked into the sport of axe throwing, and absolutely LOVE it. I have learned that the majority of affordable axes have a rather large speed bump that makes it counterintuitive for throwing, so they need to be profiled for them to work better. This was absolutely awesome. Thank you so so much!!
Thanks for the compliment. I’m happy you were able to find, and get something out of the video.
I bought a vintage plumb recently and hated to sharpen into the patina but I do appreciate your help getting my edge right. Something I learned from Buckin Billy Ray is when you hold the edge up to a light if you can see any light reflecting then the edge isn’t sharp enough.
I've only been following for several weeks but I must say. I feel more at home here than anywhere else on TH-cam.
A great learning resource on ax blade angles.
I am touched with gratitude for the wonderful video.
Thank you very much.
Thank you for watching.
That is one of the best explanations of sharpening an axe I’ve heard. Excellent job, your videos are done so well!
Thanks Justin!
You all prolly dont care but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Lance Andre instablaster ;)
@Caden Tate I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Caden Tate It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
Finally....gracias, Dustin. I know Ive being asking over and over for this, but I do appreciate this type of videos.
Good job mate . Thanks for the reshaping points. Thanks for the video. take it easy
Thank you for watching!
Very well done! Great info and very much to the point.
Thank you
I learned so much watching this, also answered a lotta questions and I didn’t know 100 percent. Thanks for sharing!!
Thank you
The Art of Craftsmanship hell ya dude. Your welcome
... a highly satisfying exercise.
Thanks, Dustin...
Thanks Dave
So relaxing and inspiring to watch a proper craftsman at work! Well done!
Thanks Doug!
Thanks for the knowledge , Dustin !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My pleasure!
5:49 Great camera shot! Really showed exactly where he was at and helped me understand and see that diagram he drew in practice.
Hi Dustin, a nice video again. I have never seen how to give the form to an axe, and I could see it from the master. Greetings from Spain Dustin. Take care!!
Thanks Brother! I’ve learned from other masters, and am happy to pass on the knowledge.
I am, so, SO, fucking happy this wasn't an ASMR video. Very well done sir.
thanx for the tip on the curves 🙂
Those deep scratches look sick on the edge. Like bear claws. Collins conn. patters are favored.
I see you finally got yourself a big boy's grinder! Nice! Love your channel/videos!
Yes sir!
Great info! Beautiful video.
Thanks Brother!
What brand name is the 1x30 belt grinder you are using in this video? Thnx great vid
It’s a Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) belt grinder.
Not gonna lie I gave it a like but have to watch it after I just got the notification so had to see.
Thanks Alexander!
Great again! Looks sooo simple 😉
Thanks. I’ve done a lot.
Very cool sir! What is the ideal "thickness behind the edge". The width of the flat plateau before you set your initial bevel (4:06).
Thanks Brother! That thickness depends on what you intend to use the axe for. If you’re splitting, it will be thicker in the cheeks, and if you’re felling/bucking, thinner. I think I had about 1/8 or so behind the initial 25 degree bevel. Imagine a close up of a micro bevel on a convex saber grind. You want some meat behind that edge for strength and durability, and it needs to be able to cut deep, and pop chips. (I love talking axes😉)
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thank you for the info, sir! I haven't ever sharpened an axe! This is good to know.
Red Beard Ops my pleasure.
Great tutorial, Thank you.
Thanks
This was such a well-done video. Really appreciate it. As you were drawing the profile on paper I had a thought about grinding bevels.
I’ve seen a lot of old timers, and black and white factory videos of axes being sharpened on huge grinding stones. They would rock the ax back-and-forth to get the convex profile.
Now pretty much everything runs on a beltgrinder, and it’s much harder to rock the ask for a convex profile. Going out on a limb here, but I wonder if that’s why I’m seeing more and more Scandinavian grinds on axes, but I can’t recall ever seeing one of those grinds on a vintage ask with the exception of Carpenter hatchets.
I have been considering a belt grinder. Guess I need to pull the trigger.
Awesome video thanks bud, 👍👍
Nice video as always still waiting to hear from ya
Just sent an email. 😉👍🏼
Thats one beat up old axe buddy
Great vid, great energy, great smile cheers
Couple things...love that grinder and the progression of grinders you used. Also are you wearing pants under that apron?? 😁 I’m not so sure. 3-in-one oil is Proooooooo! Love this one guys. Mucho love from House / Work
I love it too!! As for pants, I never wear pants under my apron😉. I like to feel the supple leather in my.......legs. Thanks for the love my man!
No pants, no shoes, no problem.
I like to file my axes and sand to a semi gloss luster. You can see exactly where you are, and zero chance of overheat.
Lots of work, time and practice, but worth it.
Well said...
I agree with you totally. I’ve done my fair share of file sharpening, and there is a time and place for each technique. This one is fast and dirty, but get the job done really well if you are careful. Thanks!
New subscriber here, glad I came across your channel. Can you please tell me more about the stropping setup you used in this video? I’d like to add that to my shop.
For stropping I use an old worn belt, flipped over so the paper side is out, and I apply polishing compound to it. That is a belt on my small Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander.
Great video! Can you address the questions regarding the inclusive edge angle? A 25-degree angle seems way too thin in practice. I am sure it is sharp though. This was a great tutorial. Thank you.
..works good. Kindly Fiete
You truly are a master of your craft friend...i wish I had your shop! Any suggestions you could make on a pack axe? One that doesn't cost an arm and leg? I'm very jealous of your sweet axe wall...would very much like one of them! Cheers on the video...now to acquire all the tools you have to make the axe lol
Fiskars makes some cheap axes and hatchets, if that helps.
Bravo... ti seguo con piacere... saluti dalla Sicilia!
Cheers!
Very useful! Thank you 🙏🏻
I have the Gransfors Bruk forest axe and I'm trying to get it shave sharp again while maintaining the convex. It gets more blunt the more I try to sharpen it. What am I doing wrong? Too steep or too rounded of an edge? I use the 240/400 puck than move up to a diamond stone with last step on 3000 wet/dry sandpaper. Looks polished but dull.
WOW - great work😁
Thanks Peter.
I'm new to your channel, having bought a cheap hatchet to learn with. Does the profile geometry work the same for hatchets as axes, where you lay the hatchet edge down and the profile should be centered on the floor?
Kinda, Yes haha We try to answer this in the new upcoming 5 Questions video. Thanks!
What grinder is that you have sir ?
Greetings buddy, cool job. I like it 👍
Thanks for the video. How do you dress that edge in the field? Thank u
You would keep a kit with you, with a few different files and a stone puck with oil.
@@FIGGY65 thank u
Awesome video. Love your shop and tools. I’ve got a couple old Collins co axes with straight bits similar to that. Strange that they seemed to send them out like that for the user to then do just what you did
but the straight,not curved axe ,is for splitting wood by placing it on top of the wood, and hammering it through the wood with a wood hammer, sorry about clumpy english, its not my native language
I wish I had a shop like that but I suppose field sharpening is a great skill to have. I’ve done some pretty ugly stuff trying to free hand with an angle grinder.
No power means no power tool accidents. Also I swear fixing my axe by hand with a file is one of the most calming activities in existence
Lovely. 🥃🏴
I moved onto a 120 year old cattle ranch last year. There must be at least 8 or 10 rusty axes laying around ( or more I haven't laid eyes on yet). How can I tell which ones are quality and which are not?
Check for any makers marks first. This will at least give you some where to start. If you don’t see any, or think they might be covered up with rust and grime, use a wire wheel or some sandpaper and WD-40 and hit the cheeks on both sides of the head. Most makers marks will be on the side of the axe that faces you while you’re holding it in your right hand, but there are exceptions to that rule so check both sides. If you find a Kelly/true temper, Plum, Collins, Council, or Norland, They might have some resale value. There are lots of other great makers of axes, and if these are all axes, pre-dating the mid 70s or earlier, then they will most likely be made of quality steel. That basically means that every axe that you have should be a quality piece, but may or may not have any significant resale value.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thank you, will do.
When you lay the head edge down and are trying to grind it it so that it lays in the middle,how are you grinding/adjusting to get itto the middle.
Are you taking material off off the heal of the edge ?
Is it 12,5 degrees per bevel or 25 degrees per bevel? I read contradictory stuff online
I love your videos, just would like to ask something. Isnt it safer to sharpen a heat treated axe with a wet grinder? I know you dip the metal in water, but still.. why is this grinding more suitable for you? And another thing: Ive seen other videos, where axes were sharpened on bench grinders, which was a major no no for lots of commenters. Isnt this the same? Sorry if I am asking dub questions, trying to learn as much as I can..
First of all, no real question is a dumb question. As far as sharpening, I always sharpen on belt grinders, dipping in water after a few passes, and have never had a bit over heat on me. I also often will do this same method, along with many knife makers, to grind heat treated blades. A water wheel/grinder would be favorable, but I don’t think necessary. A bench grinder spins a LOT faster than a belt grinder, and would have the possibility of over heating you axe much quicker than a belt grinder.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thank you Sir, much appriciated :)
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Not everyone uses a belt grinder to sharpen their axes lol, but nice video. I prefer pucks and or whetstones. More efficient and less metal wasted.
I love using my puck, but I’ve got to get down to the edge first. I’ve done lots of different techniques over the years, and love them all. Once they are sharp, I keep them that way with my puck👍🏼. Thanks
Thanks for the present too 😂😂😂😂
I just sent a Collins Legitimus 3 1/2 lb double bit off to Brant & Cochran in Maine last week for a complete restoration. I’ll be curious to see how their polished edges compare with yours. Gotta get me a belt grinder. How wide a belt do you like?
I’d love to see how it turns out. I have used my 1x30 just as successfully as my 2x72, to grind and sharpen heads from start to finish. Once you have the grinder, you just need to learn the tool.
Thank you for such an informative video. I have a question. I have been profiling axes and hatchets for a friend of mine that currently is rated # 10 in the world for axe throwing. It takes me 20 plus hours to profile an axe head, from a fat cheeked splitting axe to one that has a 3/16th wide cheek. It takes me 20 plus hours to profile and sharpen and polish. I can send you some pictures. My question is, do you have a quicker process to do this? I was thinking of the old style knife sharpener from the 50s and 60s, where you have opposing grinding wheels, but on a much larger scale. Maybe two opposing grinding discs, coolant flooded. Set it to the programmed angle, and let it grind to a pre specified thickness and relief angle. Does such a machine exist?
I will send you pictures if you can give me an email address. Thank you! My name is Steven Avis. My email is avis .steve@gmail.com. I currently hold one patent. If I don't hear from you, have a great and safe thanksgiving!
Thanks for reaching out Steven. I’d like to see some picture of your work. You can send me an email to theartofcraftsmanship@gmail.com
Great
Man I am going to have to redo the edge on my Husqvarna
What ever happened to using a wet mill stone grit wheel, no sparks or heating. I never use a grinder on my vintage tools, perhaps because I was taught by my Gt Uncle who went through WW1 and WW2 . Same for kitchen knives.
I agree that a wet stone would be the better avenue. This way has worked really well for me. That’s also the reason I mentioned several times to keep the steel cool by quenching often👍🏼.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thanks, good reply. Suppose I must get modern one day, it's difficult to find a small willing child (me in the past) to turn the handle on an old stone wet wheel these days!!
Marc Bolland lol!! Good point.
Nice man. I really need to get a belt grinder. Any recommendations for a good inexpensive one?
Primal Wanderer , I bought a 1x 30 from H F for about 60.00 . Almost a year in, I have to say I am happy with it. Just like the one he uses here.
Harbor Freight, can't go wrong...
Hey brother! I agree with Stephen, and Dave. The HF 1x30 has served me well over the years. My 2x72 is a Revolution grinder from Brian House at House Work on YT. He has awesome plans, and kits to purchase and build your own. He also has a ton of videos on the design, and how to build them. If you have the know how, you could probably spend half the price of a new grinder building one from Brian’s kit and plans. You can also check them out on his web site, housemade.us.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship excellent to know 🤙👣
can I just ask what's is the name of the last grinder
thank you
It’s a 1x30 belt grinder from Harbor Freight.
The profile on that axe was unusual. But I’m sure that was a factory design. Any idea of the purpose of a square faced axe?
I’m not sure. It has USDA hand stamped on it, so maybe something to do with Agriculture.
Could it be an axe for cutting roof shingles Stuart Palmer Adelaide Sth Australia
Stuart Palmer could be. That flat bit was reminiscent of a half hatchet. 👍🏼
I did some looking and there was a “carpenters hatchet “ very similar used for hewing timbers.
How do I send you a picture? I could use your advice on how to identify my axe. 🪓
You can send it to theartofcraftsmanship@gmail.com
Where did you get the light on your grinder?
www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVFRBXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_QZYqFbPZVG3BT
Here is a link to the two pack. You can save a total of $2 by buying two instead of one. Can’t beat that, and if you have a spot for one, you will definitely have a spot for two😉.
Just sharpen the axe!!!
Philadelphia checking in. Grind it till ya find it😂 off topic/video, how is your brother's man cave rehab going?
It’s coming along. We’ll check in with him soon and post another vid. Thanks. You can also follow along on his channel, Man Versus Matrix.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship 👍 hope you guys are well. Hope to see you on the next live.
@8:40 there are quite some diagonal indentations to see , don't they act as "speed-bumps" as well, why didn't you remove them at first? Would like to SEE it cut paper and wood.
Just subscribed to your channel, watched a few now , planning on making a birch wood axe handle, I've noticed you have a lot of axes , would you sell me a few of them?
No. The hunt is half the fun! Thanks for watching.
I dunno if you’ve found any yet, but hit up antiques and thrift stores, along with garage sales.
👍
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I need that Legitamus in my life. Lol
Iheard this before, but checking where the bit touches can't be an accurate measurement. A more pronounced fawns foot at the bottom of your handle which never comes close to your grip and makes no difference in the handling can influence that angle, maybe I'm overthinking it but just something I always thought.
I agree. You’re right. I guess that’s why its just a rule of thumb, or “another” way to help guide the overall hang.
Have any axe handles made of mesquite?
Mesquite is really pretty but very brittle for use as an axe. I have mesquite all over the place at the house but I mostly use it for smoking...which is FANTASTIC!
@@usfaaartillerist yeah i figure as much as so. Have been wondering if anyone has been able to pull it off but that makes sense seeing as how hard it is. I have an old ka-bar knife that im restoring. Has plastic grip handles and i want to do mesquite grips instead. Changing it from a tactical knife to more of a survival knife. The tip was broken so i had to re-profile the tip the best i could with hand tools.
@@ultimumlibertas5727 now mesquite would be GREAT for that.
@@usfaaartillerist thanks i hope it turns out well. Gonna do the best i can without fancy woodworking tools haha. Wish me luck
Mesquite would not be the best for axe handles, but you use what you have when needs must😉. If you have a supply, I might suggest getting some 3/4 hickory, and sandwiching it between two pieces of mesquite. And as USF mentioned, it would make great knife handle scales. Good luck. The K-Bar project sounds awesome.
Use the flick friends!
I use the flick for splitting. Not so much on bucking😉. Thanks.
4:17 The angle is actually 50° between the two lines, not 25°. If you grind the blade 25° on each side, you end up with a 50° wedge.
In order to have a 25° wedge, you'll have to grind 12.5° on each side and ¿wouldn't that be a very thin wedge for an axe?
I am wondering basically the same thing. Was that 25 degrees inclusive or per side. Like you, I assume he means 25 degrees per side for an inclusive angle of 50 degrees.
I have the same question. A 25 inclusive would be thinner than some chef knives. I would think the edge would not be very durable.
Title: How to shape and sharpen an axe.
Video: Concise 10 minute video walking you through the entire process.
I've seen enough click bait videos to know that this must be a trick! Good job though, it was enjoyable for me and I live in a city with no workshop and no use for axes (although I want to buy several for reasons)
Lol. To be honest, the thumbnail is our “click bait” but the title tells the truth😉. I’ve got a reason for you... they’re the oldest tool of man kind. Can’t go wrong with preserving history.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship you are the good type of clickbait dont worry! You've got to attract the views right? Well you deliver so bait me all you want
Zoso 14892 lol! We’ll keep at it.
There goes the temper
Always use a file even wetting it the new Swedish axes don’t hold edges anymore because everyone is using belts
It's scary sharp and dangerously blunt.
A bucket of water? Just water? Or do you mean you have a salt brine consisting of nitrate based or chlorine based salts? For those who do not know, Plain water, air or oil won’t do. Why? Because the salt brine prevents air blankets and air globules as well as cooling the steel much more evenly. Be well. Have fun.
I wouldn't even use water or anything. Unless you're getting over 300 degrees , it doesn't matter. Unless you're doing some hard grinding , reprofiling the whole head . The bulk of the head will absorb a lot of heat . No need to not be able to touch it. Knives are a totally different story. Water is fine for cooling a little. There's no forging temperatures being reached. Forging 1095 steel , I use straight vegetable oil. Axes are around 1050 to 1060.
I have an axe to grind.
😁
Noooooo, don’t straighten that bit. So hard to find straight bits anymore. Those of us who chop with axes will pay good money for those, just ever so rounded at the toe and heel. Also 25 degrees is fine for splitting, but if you want to do anything else with it don’t be afraid to slash that angle way back. I keep most of mine at 17-19 degrees. No problems. As always though, we’ll done mate.
Would u like these love 😂😂😂😂
Hahaha axminster street
My grandfather used a file. And a stone. No need for any fancy machine.
I’ve used files, and they work great. There is a time and place for each technique.
Sorry bud, I like the time you put in and the passion, but you remove too much material and your method requires more material to be removed on subsequent sharpenings. Im not referring to the reshaping - which is a cool method and a good guideline for people who don't know where to start, the reshaping is necessary but honestly I have never seen an axe sharpened so poorly that gets a flat edge like that. In a nutshell you lost me at the power sander and the angle stuff. Use and axe and you'll know what angle works best...remove too much material and you shorten the life of the blade.....that's false economy. Cheers and keep up the cool vids.
Thanks for your thoughts. This one had quite a thin bit to start with, so I wanted to keep that geometry. I also usually prefer more of a convex grind on my axes, but this little beauty is a laser now 😉😁.
okay, but why would you always want a rounded profile? If the axe was made with a square profile, there must have been a reason. Why do you have so many axes? If they've all got the same profile, then they're principally all the same and do the same job, so why so many? I have had axes with many profiles, they're made for different jobs.
They are made for different jobs, but I prefer to use them for wood, so I put a rounded profile on mine. So many? I don’t have nearly enough😉😂. I’m a collector, and love to restore old axes, so I buy them from yard sales and flea markets all the time. There is a certain mystique about restoring and using the oldest tool from mankind. I can’t get enough. I’m an Axe Junkie.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship then you need to make one out of stone, flint perhaps. Those would be the earliest type. Me, I see nothing but work when I see an axe. Mostly I used a double bit back in the day.
weird story, I was at an auction. They had a LOT of hand tools, axes, rakes, you name it, if it was a hand tool of the sort it was in the bunch. they kept adding to the row of tools because no one would even offer a 2 dollar minimum bid. So I finally did and got a ton of yard tools, axes and the like for 2 bucks. Oddly, though no one would offer 2 dollars on the lot, guys lined up behind me to pay two dollars per tool. I kept what I wanted, and sold all the rest for 2 dollars each, made about 80 bucks on the deal, and still had the few tools I wanted. Never did understand that one.
Great