Your shake reminded me of a night in NYC: my buddy and I found this long, narrow bar...couldn’t at first figure why the patrons were clustered in a 6’ length of the bar. Then the beautiful, young lady bartender slipped behind the bar in her low-cut jersey. As she leaned to get ice from the chest, the crowd went on tip-toes, looking down the front. She filled the steel shaker with ice and whiskey sour makins, and really put her body into making the mixed drinks. We stayed too long....bad hangover.
Thanks for the video. Have your system working good now. Added a step. At the 10 minute mark during cooking I shake the heck out of the basket. It reduces the number of bullets that have to be broken apart to 4 or 5 and only 1 or 2 that stick to the basket. Also in my attempts I've had to preheat at 200 degrees for 7 minutes starting with a cold oven. Keep up the great work and videos!
Hey, Elvis...what’s the big deal? I don’t see manufacturers putting out much in powder coat. I took some store-bought shotgun slug loads apart....not even lubed. So, they don’t rust?? What’s the benefit?
The hardware cloth basket is fine for the powder coat and powder recovery step, But I am wondering if a silicone baking sheet would be easier for the bake on stage? Whether it would release and avoid residual baked on flash from the metallic basket, It appears that the basket is collecting residual coating after successive bakes. Would a silicone baking sheet be cleaner and have less basket transfer residue? What is the relative thickness of the different colors? Some bullet casters offer their bullets in slight under-sizes. ( How do you re-size them ?) You observe that the double dusting adds coverage in general, but is there a measure on the added coating (.007" per dusting)? An oven thermometer would add a little more info on how accurate a cheap toaster oven timed heat soaks actually are.. Great video on the process though pointing out different colors have different coating stickiness properties.
Nice video but have you considered trying the powder coat solution whereby mixing the powder with acetone? I did your method that you show in this video and I had good results concerning reducing the amount of boogers once I stood up each bullet on the baking pan that was lined with parchment paper. However there were places where the coating was VERY thin. The problem I'm having is that the powder doesn't want to build up much and even doesn't build up any coat at all in places on the bullets. I made sure the powder was mixed before applying the bullets to it. I then tried cleaning the bullets with acetone and allowing them to completely dry but I still had problems.I then tried shaking them and then shaking them some more and yes even shaking them more but the bullets still aren't getting coated like I see getting done in your videos. I noticed in one of your videos that you mentioned using a plastic container that is marked with the #5 recycling code. Does this have something to do with the type of plastic the container is and how well it will create static charge verses using another type of plastic container?
This video was worth my time if only for the karate chop technique. :) I finally picked up a pound of HF red to try against the stuff I've been using. I'll definitely be trying your process. Thanks for the tips!
hey there, Johnnys reloading bench, I knew that karate chop would scare somebody! ; ) hey what kind of powder have you been using? thank you for taking the time to comment!
I ordered 4 pounds from Smoke4320 over on the cast boolits forum. castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?252509-Hi-Quality-Powdercoating-Powder-For-sale
Elvis, Hey Buddy Good video, I like how you share your experience with trial and error pointing out how you didn't fix things up preparing for your shoot. It's like we (The viewers) are just hanging out in your bullet shop having a cup of Coffee with you. Vary relaxed and simple. Many videos have been shot by others out there and there seems to be two ways to do it, shaking them up in bowls and the other method of using a vibratory tumbler. Personally I like your method. Pre heat them, then shake them and Bake them. pretty straight forward and simple, Not a lot of walking across the room or out to the Garage. everything is right in front of you. Good video even though I don't powder coat. Good shooting to ya,, Dave.
One thing that is a virtue, "Grace", You don't come across like your viewers are in Class and there is going to be a test, You Kinda come across like "As soon as we are done here,, Were Going inside for some Home grown Fried Chicken, Sweet green beans with onion and Bacon, and some Home made whipped Potatoes and some Black Barry Cobbler"... hehehe Vary welcome and comfortable. Dave.
+Thorsaxe777 Man! now I'm hungry! !! And the blackberry cobbler! the only thing you left out was a nap after all that! ! ; ) I'm glad you can appreciate these things and not even be a powder coater! That's one of the things that make ya a good man Thorsaxe777. .. thanks for your comments! !!!
Nice job, Elvis - I enjoyed the whole video - want to try that HF White the "Elvis 4 / 140" method (why not since you are the first one on TH-cam doing it this way), first chance I get...Plus, just got the Lyman 50th Edition after I saw your video on that - it's good for us to have that... Have a good evening, FC
hey, Mr Fortune Cookie, It means a whole lot getting a "nice job" from the Fortune Cookie! been watching your show for a long time, Guess I owe you a" nice job" as well. ... Glad you got the 50th. It is well done. I like the Elvis 4/ 140 name you got going! Happy powder coating, Friend!
Elvis, I really appreciate what you do brother!! If it wasn’t for you and Fortune Cookie I would be in a bind trying to do this. I’m new to reloading, and I’m really enjoying it so far!!
Great video Elvis, Thanks. I'm gonna do my first batch tomorrow. Gonna start with Harbor Freight Red. I gotta figure out how to make the basket, but if that don't take to long I should have my first batch tomorrow. I feel like I already know what I'm doing since watching the videos you make. Well I did it today. Decent results, but I had a few problems. The first batch I did about 50 9mm casts in a folgers plastic coffee can. I did the 140 for 4 technique. The first problem was it took me about 8 minutes of shaking before it had what I considered a minimal coating. They looked about what the white in your video looked after cooking for 20 minutes at 400F. Fully covered with coating but blotchy. They were shiny all around so I figure they are OK. The second batch was about the same but I did about 125 at one time. At 8 minutes they had a better coating, but not as good as you show. They turned out better, but not as nice as yours. Do you have any suggestions for getting it to stick better/faster? Thanks.
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
Hey Elvis! First, let me say thanks a lot. You and Fortune45LC have totally been my instructors and mentors when it comes to bullet casting. Really like what you're doing here. :) I've recently made my first batch of cast bullets (using the flat tipped 124 grain 9mm mold you just experimented with), and then powder coated them with Harbor Freight Red. That's where I'm having my problems. I did the powder coating exactly the way you do, and came up with uncoated places on a lot of the bullets I made. Yes, I saw uncoated areas before cooking them and re-shook them in the powder for a while. Still had bare spots. I've been literally imitating you verbatim, and am at a loss as to what's going wrong. Any thoughts?
hey Michael Kingswood... sometimes you might have to work with it to perfect it..... little bit longer in the powder as you swirl. don't dump them until they are coated good... Another Option is to go with the blue Eastwood powder I have a video on it... seems to be the one that works for anyone having an issue with other methods... it is the very easiest one to use... hope this helps ... thankyou for commenting and thanks for watching!!!!! best to ya
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
When I put the bullets in for 4 min at 140 they came out only a few degrees above the room temp. When holding them they hardly even felt warm. Was finally successful after 4th time at 140 degrees. Coat was still a little thin though. My expanded metal tray is not good. The screen is kind of sharp and it seems to tear the prebaked powder off. So I put them in a common kitchen strainer, to keep the powder on then carefully moved them to the tray to bake. The stainless screen wire seems to be much better than the crap that I used. Going to see if I can find a big strainer and flatten the bottom and use for PC.
Elvis. I love your videos. I have a question about powder coating your cast bullets. Well isn’t the powder coat a sort of paint that gets baked on? I would think that that would destroy your firearm barrel. And is there a need for a gas check? I really want to get into casting. Please help!
Awesome video I was about to get in to casting my own seeds to and just got afew powders white and black and waiting on lead cast mold and dies..new reloading
Elvis, I am looking forward to using this method. Glad I saw it before I went and wasted my money on a vibratory tumbler. I have been only reloading for less than a year. I reload .22lr. I cast, cut a hollow base and knurl the bullets. Now with powder coating. I can swage them to a nice straight wall with a nice deep hollow base with lots of bearing surface. I did one batch of powder coat bullets as an experiment. My question is this: I am going to be coating 38 grain bullets. Should I cut the time of 4 minutes down even more? Like 3 and a half?
hey , Hans Pcguy.... not too many people are reloading 22lr ... good for you , thats interesting ! As for how long to preheat for the little bullets, It's no problem experimenting..... 3-3 1/2 might get it done no problem!!!! happy powder coating to ya !!!! and thanks for watching........
Nice video! I stopped using HF powder, while it got the job done there are better covering powders and easier to coat. I use Smoke4320 powder which is like a dust compared to HF powder. I use the same routine as you but skip the preheat. helpfull tip. Use black air soft BB'S in your powder. It will create more static much quicker and bullets get coated very quickly and completely. you'll find no need to preheat.
Great video. It got me to attempt HF Red for my first time. I had about 60% perfection...another 30% either had a few bare spots or lumps...the last 10% were really poor. I couldn't get them to release from the hardware cloth tray very well. Didn't wait that long, but they seemed cold. How long would you say you allow them cool down from the 400 degree oven to dumping them into the towel? Overall, I still consider it a success with a lot of room for improvement on my part.
hey James, you one of reasons why I done the video! wait until they want burn you to the touch to break em up, make sure you shake your powder before you use it, 140 degrees for 4 minutes shouldn't burn your hand but it is still hot....shake em in the powder and inspect by opening the lid, they should be completely covered but not clumped, if the coat looks thick, shake them in the screen real good to get the excess powder off. if they are not coated good give them another whirl and inspect. ... put em in the oven 400 degrees for 20 minutes, take em out and let them cool till you can just manage to handle them. slap em, knock em, break em up! you can even put them in an empty container and shake em up like that to break em up!!!! hope this helps my friend! !!!!
Hello Elvis, I enjoyed your video immensely, my real interest in powder coating is for black powder and in particular the .577 minne ball type bullet. I you have had any experience with this projectile a response would be appreciated. Regards WRXS.
I must totally agree a big thank you from Northern Ireland for the video and the the knowledge you have given . without people like you TH-cam would die . thanks again
hey Elvis! I love powder coating my bullets it just drives me nuts sometimes. one day they all coat great, the next day it will not adhere at all! no idea why. everything was done the same. happens ever so often. oh well, I just wait a couple days and try it again and it works great again. thanks for the vid!
hey trojan horse, ???? I don't know. .. glad it works sometimes! ? if nothing else you'll have to wait till the powdercoat gods are in line with you again! !! ; )
hey 147DMC,you won't never look back, it's a great way to jacket your bullets! !!! keep me informed on your progress! !! thanks for watching and commenting!
I've been tumbling my bullets in a jar with a squirt of cooking spray(vegetable oil), then dipping them in powder one at a time with long-nose pliers and setting them out on my toaster-oven tray. Tedious and time-consuming, but it works. Will try your method shortly.
hey Kw2798... I hear some funny stories on here! !! we have some serious reloaders and powder coaters! man I sure hope this works out for ya ..... You should also watch my blue bullet video. .. they are very beautiful! thanks for sharing and making me laugh at someone other than myself!
Elvis, Very good video. My question is, with this being powder coated do you need to worry about doing the wax ring in the grooves of the bullets? Thanks and keep them coming.
hey Brian, no sir.... once you powder coat the bullet there is no need at all to lube the bullet additionally! thanks for the compliment on the videos, I will keep em coming! ; )
I've been powder coating now for about a year and a half. Funny how similar our methods are. Almost identical. One pro tip, buy powder from powder by the pound. Get white and black and mix them to make grey. I have no idea why but it is a near flawless coating every time. Coat with just the white or just the black and it's nowhere near as good. BTW, successfully tested my .223 PC non- gas checked loads tonight. Happy to report I got flawless function in my AR at 2200 FPS and accuracy was good enough. 11 cent a round and supper easy.
Tonsofgunsoffun, hey man! well that's pretty cool. ... funny how alike us loaders and powder coaters are! I really like the sound of the powdercoat, I will get some! thanks for finally chiming in..... not a lot of reports on successful powders . is it gloss black and gloss grey? so I don't get the wrong one.... I've mixed harborfreight powder into several successful colors as well... thanks for the info!!; )
Tonsofgunsoffun, hey man! well that's pretty cool. ... funny how alike us loaders and powder coaters are! I really like the sound of the powdercoat, I will get some! thanks for finally chiming in..... not a lot of reports on successful powders . is it gloss black and gloss grey? so I don't get the wrong one.... I've mixed harborfreight powder into several successful colors as well... thanks for the info!!; )
hey, north Carolina prepper! no problem with either color at all, toughness, hardness, all seem to be the same. it's obvious with the different colors there is a different ratio of polymer and secondary ingredients, My "hunch " tells me that the yellow has more polymer In it.... I've been doing some durability testing. the jury is still out on that...But all are sufficient for the purpose of coated ammo! thanks for taking the time to comment! !!
LOL...Yeah, turn the camera on and replacing that light bulb becomes a much more difficult task! Great video. What would be your guess at what temp would the bullet be for preheating? cold oven set to 140 degrees, no more than 4 minutes.....110-120 degrees? Thanks for the info......... Cmax
hey Cmax Arms.... yea the camera makes ya do silly things. .. ; ) the goal is to not go over 140 degrees because it can cause clumping. I'm hoping the 4 min will eliminate over heating in most ovens. I suspect their around the 140 mark. but I haven't used a temp gauge to know for sure. I Guess I should have!
I am in my beginning in casting ( got all the stuff, just have not done it yet) in learning about that and all the ways to prepare the lead bullets. Powder coating just makes the most sense to me. Thanks for all the help. Cmax
Thanks for your reply back my first attempt with powder coating what's Harbor Freight's not working out too well. I checked was Eastwood there wanting to charge me almost $15 for shipping to go to Illinois one pound of powder :( thanks again
@bidkid2020...check out buying the Eastwood Powder Coat from Amazon...free shipping with Prime...and it ships directly from Eastwood. My last order for Ford Light Blue was under $14.00 shipped 👍
Weird. 4 year old video.. first I’ve seen it and and I came down to the comments to ask this same question that you asked just ten hours ago. But does he?
If the power coat creates a hard surface you shouldn't have to be as concerned about the aloy content I've checked the hardness of power coat verses a copper jacket and it seemed to take more force to crush the power coat could li be mistaken thanks for your videos ,,,
A word of caution for all reloaders using cast lead and powder coating! I just had my annual physical and blood work review with my doctor, my lead level was up enough to cause concern and a recheck in six months. The doctor explained that with lead "contact contamination" provides the highest risk followed by inhalation. I have not been using gloves for smelting, casting, and powder coating.... I will now be wearing long sleeves, latex/nitrile gloves, a respirator, and running a fan to exhaust any fumes/dust away. I dealt with cancer once.... don't want to have a second experience.
great approach, cant wait to give it a shot. do you use a convection oven or plain toaster oven? i bought a toaster oven for my kydex work, then regretted it as i see a lot of people saying convection is better for powdercoating
That yellow SUCKS! Thanks to you, I ordered some Eastwood powders. Just tried the Ford Light Blue, and this stuff rocks! SOOO much better that the Harbor Freight.
Hey Elvis; when you put your cast bullets into the oven initially and set it to 140 degrees for four minutes, can you tell us what the temperature of the bullets are when you pull them out of the oven after that four minutes is done? After just four minutes, I'm pretty sure that the cast bullets haven't warmed up to the 140 degrees that the oven was set for. For all of us who have cheap little ovens with built in timers and thermostats that aren't really that reliably calibrated, maybe a temperature measurement of the actual bullets when you remove them from the oven would be helpful. I know for certain that the thermostat on my cheap little toaster oven is no where near what the actual temperature settings on the dials state. In order to get a constant 400 degrees I have to set mine to 450 degrees. I use the same high-heat thermometer in my oven that I use in my melting pot in order to set the correct temperatures so If we had the actual temperature of those pre-heated bullets, it would go a long way to getting things right from the getgo. Thanks for your help. Tim M.
OK; thanks. I look forward to hearing what you come up with. I use the electro-statatic method of powder coating but when I do rifle bullets using that method I don't get the even coating I'm hoping for. I think that trying it your way might give me better results but, I'll have to wait and see. For long skinny bullets like the 6.5mm, it's absolutely critical that the powder coat adheres to the bullets as evenly as possible in order to maintain concentricity. Thanks again. Tim M.
I don't preheat anything, as long as the bullets and powder are at least room temp it works. But _any_ moisture will ruin the process so you must clean all old powder from the tumblers or buckets beforehand, any old powder will have sucked in moisture from the air. I put the bullets on a wire mesh container, 200 degrees celcius for 20 minutes, and shake the bullets at 7-8 minute mark to they won't get stuck to each other. I dremeled my Lee molds a bit bigger and removed the grease groove to gain some grains of mass in same space (and more rifling bearing surface).
+Spörde Spyrdenstein you ever consider maybe using silicone gel gel packs in your powder to keep the moisture out, instead of removing the powder from the bowls?
I bought a big pack of these things from eBay...China. Got them to put in my temporary gun powder jar. Sounds logical to use them in the temporary powder bowl.
After a couple of years of powder coating lead cast bullets I only use the red as it provides the best finish; for me the other colors are not worth the effort when I can get far better results with the red. My current procedure..... I wash the cast bullets in acetone to clean the surface, after drying I place the bullets in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes at 150 to 160 degrees; remove the bullets from the oven and dump them in the shaker and vigorously shake for at least three minutes, dump the bullets into a sifter so the excess powder falls through into a catch container, stand the powder coated bullets on end on a baking tray covered with non-stick aluminum foil, bake for 20 to 25 minutes at @ 475 degrees... I could get away with just one coat but I am a little particular so I do a second coat. After the first coat I let the bullets cool to the point that they can be handled but are still quite warm to the touch, then dump them back in the shaker and repeat... the result is outstanding. I have tried just dumping the powder coated bullets on a screen and baking them but I tend to get small bare spots on the bullets and they clump together and when broken apart there are bare spots so I stand them on end for baking. Using the above described routine I have coated over 10,000 bullets the past 9 months. Two key things that have made a huge improvement for me.... #1 - acetone wash, and #2 - preheating the bullets before dusting them in the shaker.
hey, bippie. .. that's awesome you have a system that works for ya! your definitely more ocd. than I am! I never understood the acetone bath, if the bullet is fresh cast metal, what could be on them? thanks again Bippie!
I agree! I would think that the cast bullets would be clean and "pure"... But I have noticed a difference in coating when I do a quick acetone wash. Have a great day.
I'm using harbor freight red. Bullets have not touched a thing since they came out of the mold except for a towel. I've tried as low as 25 bullets in the plastic bowl and as much as about 150. The only thing I can think of is my toaster oven may not really function at 140. It does have a 150 setting which I have tried and slightly above to no avail. Do you have problems with the powder coat leaving bare spots when you pull the bullets apart?
Do you count 4 minutes after the oven is at 140 or just set 4 minutes from cold? I guess what I am asking is do you preheat the oven? Sorry for all my dumb questions but I am real new to this.
hey Richard Venneman. .. hey man , no dumb questions. .. I get it. you're one of the reasons I do this to help others in the craft! I haven't seen a difference myself. preheat or start from cold.. happy powder coating to ya!
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
Elvis, I just did my second fairly big batch. It looked like the oven was only abound 360 degrees. I ignored it and kept going. The bullets turned out pretty well. (did 2 coats) But now i noticed that they were starting to stick together, 2 days after baking them. It also seems that they are scratchable and not the coating is not hard enough. I think that they did not bake hot enough. Can I throw them back in the oven and bake them again?
hey Hans Pcguy.... I never have thrown them back in But dont see why not. put a few in and see how they turn out! I have found however that a thin to reasonable thin first coat is better than a thick coat in my opinion.. thick coats seems like it would weaken the bullets contact in the rifling. (my opinion) ....not sure about 360 degrees at the least 375
I thought to powder coat one had to electrically charge the metal to get the powder to stick? Am I missing something here? This is awesome! I guess the preheat causes the powder coat to just stick enough to the lead that it acts like electricity?
Hey Christopher Jefferson... No one ever said that!!! but I am a southern countryboy.... : ) ... the objective of powdercoating is getting the powdercoat to stick so you can bake it! us casters and reloaders have created all kinds of ways to make it happen.. (got creative) as you see the preheat method works. I have another video using blue powder that is even easier to get to stick! we have even spun them in plastic bowl to create static , and put the bullets in our tumblers with the powder.. and made it sick that way. then in the oven at 400 degrees for 20 minutes to get that hard coat we like... hope this helps.. But your not missing anything, electrostatic is the normal way....
The static is how things are normally powder coated but for bullets, the heat is plenty. One thing people do is put airsoft bb's in a whipped cream tub and put the powder and bullets in there and swirl them. The bb's and tub make a static charge on the bullets. That was the method I used but Im switching to this now. Way easier than picking them out of the bbs.
I did my first batch of "Elvis Method" pc bullets. UGH! I had problems with a used toaster oven that I bought... took 5 tries to get the powder to stick so I could bake them. Then I screwed up worse....The oven was holding at 400 for the first few minutes so I went and did something else. Came back and shot it with the thermometer gun...490 degrees. I over cooked them. The color got darker than it should be and I can scrape the coating off with my finger nail . Question, can I just give them another coat? I wouldn't be able to get the coating off completely by any means. How would I do another coat 4 min at 400 degrees etc again just like the first coat?
Mostly looks. Some argue that different brands or colors give a better coating, as in they apply easier. Some also say certain brands are stronger than others and do a better job... In my experience with coating for around 20 different calibers, Harbor Freight cheap red color works as well as more expensive brands.
I tried HF White, Yellow, Red, and Black. Black is the worse, 3 coats still can't get a glosy finish. However, White and Red can be one coated with a glossy finish.
the one thing I haven't tried was putting my toaster on 140 and always on. My toaster has a setting to only be one while the timer is going or always on. Maybe it's just not a constant enough heat. I'll try again on my next rounds.
+boddyxpolitic yea, your probably referring to the dueling tree and the rest. I did. that tree Will use some ammo in a fun competition! definitely worth the work!
Help. I have tried your method and vibratory along with tumbler and can't make HF red stick. Preheated and even overheated resulting in only one side clumped up. Used #5 bowl. How soon after casting do you coat? The only thing I can think of is my bullets are over a year old. Stored in airtight containers. They look shiny but is it possible they have oxidation preventing the powder from sticking? Would acetone remove it? The only thing I got to work was by adding my homemade shot to the vibratory tumbler after 3 hours. The only problem I had was I now have brown bullets. I graphite coat my shot! Not sure if the graphite would hurt but color is boring.
hey Douglas Files ... Sorry for all the trouble your having. After making contact with the graphite you will for sure need to give them a bath in acetone... This may help for any oxidation as well. Another step might be to get ya some Eastwood Ford light blue... This seems to be a more fool proof powder for those who are having trouble... Let me know how it goes?
hey Franco Neus.... Thanks for the comment. .. I size after powder coating. .. on rare occasion I don't size at all. . like with my 233 out of the lee mold. they run a little better without sizing. I have a video on the subject. . " sizing or not " thanks for watching!
all right, I finally tried this with some harbor freight red and it came out super lumpy. I can't imagine that it would smooth out when it gets cooked on hard. I had the same problem when I tried to use the powder coat mixed with paint thinner method. it went on super lumpy. I hoped that it would smooth out in the high temp bake but it didn't, so I am sure that the same thing would happen if I baked these. I think that this batch is a total loss . do you have any advice? I really want this to work like it has for you.
hey George Stuart. ..I've seen and heard of this kind of thing. .. first do very small batch to get the hang. 2nd there is a chance that you oven is getting the bullets too hot.. turn down the heat and work (up) until you get adhesion. ..lumps almost always happen when they are too hot. 3rd make sure to get the bullets in and out of powder especially if they are clumping. .. also if the powder is thick on the bullets. .. Give them a more vigorous shaking in the screen...
elvis ammo wow, thanks for the quick response. am I right in thinking that there is no way to salvage this batch? just have to remelt and recast and try again from the beginning?
Hey George Stuart... sometime when I see a comment like that, someone is in the middle of the project... And If I can respond quickly It's helpful... : ) i never know! The other solution is to use the Eastwood powder. I have a video on that (it's the ford light blue" Let me know how it goes!
I'm having trouble with this method can't get powder to stick after preheating no matter what way or how long I shake them they will not coat,,i also just started today and im not using the same plastic container as you.
Hey, Im sure youve said it somewhere before, but what did you make that screen out of? I work at a hardware store and I wanna pick one up exactly like that to make one for myself.
Elvis im going to load my marlin with the 173 grain rnfp i cast and powder coated. Whats your opinion on wheather i should gas check as normal or do as fortune cookie suggests and forgo gc. Im using imr 3031 also. Starting at 27 grains
hey Edad, I rarely use gc. only to compare out of curiosity. and the only difference I find is usually a fluke. ... you still have to consider the bullets tensile strength. as always. .. hope this helps. let me know how it goes and what you decided on? thanks again for watching and commenting! !!
Hello friend, tell me what is the purpose of this coated bullets for lead and antimony? Where they sell that dust? Is there any functional difference between colors, influencing ballistically?
hey, 270 WeaMag... The purpose us to coat the bullet with powdercoat instead of lube. Less smoke, Less Friction, Ability to load closer to jacketed data, Cleaner with no mess collection on the bullet. .... Red is the easiest color to use and coat. one thin coat is all needed. This stuff comes from harborfreight or harborfreight.com for around 5 buck a pound. ... hope this helps! happy powder coating my friend! !!
elvis ammo I understand, instead of oiling the bullet in grease channels, this dust adheres covering and give less smoke and less friction in the passage of the striae. Increases the velocity of the projectile; It is easy to clean the barrel of the gun after a shooting practice? Its use is recommended in new weapons or something and used? Lyman molds have several sizes and as you know its oil grooves are large; this dust can fill or cover the 100%? Excuse me ask you both but I care very much; thanks for answering very good videos.
+270WeaMag yes powder coat is the powder form of paint or polymer, and it coats the bullet. when you put it in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, it then bakes on the bullet. Lee makes really nice molds as well. lyman is also very good. You won't need to fill the grooves of the bullets. . hope this helps!
elvis ammo Sure served me well your help friend Elvis; I appreciate your answers; now to try to find that powder polymer, really I care too much. By the way the website that gave me does not open; where else could you find?
hey Jim pels...yea I have.. but I really couldn't find a distinctive difference! maybe someone else has but I haven't. .. thanks again for watching and commenting!
Where are you located elvis? I'm in CO and I can't get the HF powder coat to stick to the bullets for the life of me. I went and bought some Cardinal Paints blue and it sticks without even heating the bullets to 140. The problem with the blue is bare spots on the bullets when I pull them apart.
hey Alan.... I'm in SC. it always does make some difference. if the bullets haven't come in contact with anything since they come out of the mold... (lube etc,etc. ) powder needs to be shook up, A small batch of bullets 3/4 to 1 inch of powder in the bowl, What color are you using? harbor freight? trying to think what it could be? if you have a bad attitude while you're working the bullets don't like that! !!! ; ) maybe we can figure this out. ..?
if you cant get harbor freight to ship look up Smoke4320 on Castboolits.gunloads.com in the swapping and selling section, he has a sample pack and 1lb of powder is 18.50 shipped, Tell him Remiel sent you
I ordered a lb of black and white from powder by the pound based on anothers good review, the total with shipping came to a little over 40 bucks. Man that aint cheap it better coat them boolits like golden nuggets. Thats 20 dollars a pound.. I guess ill have a life time supply.anyway cant wait to see how it works without gas checks first.
hey edad. let me know how the black and white powder works for ya... the price was the reason I stopped short of getten me some. I am interested in your review. ...
hey Michael, that's interesting, I'm glad you chimed in! I was thinking of stopping by my local body shop to see if they would sell me a couple things (colors to try? I do however feel like yellow and white have more polymer In them? whatcha think?
The only report I have ever heard of black HF causing barrel wear is due to some guy on Castboolit forums complaining about throat erosion in his 40 cal S&W M&P a few years back. If you read the thread, we later find out that the finding was not conclusive as he did not fire hf exclusively. However, this rumor has spread persistently just like the "aluminum gas checks al oxide will wear out your barrel" myth. While I can't say black HF does not cause damage (since we still don't know what caused that wear, maybe S&W uses cheap and cruddy metal that wears faster to make hammer forging easier) I can say that I have used hf black powder coat since 3 months after wiederlader posted his video on epoxy coated bullets and have run it through several guns exclusively 50 bmg (not exclusively cast), .30-06, 45, 40, 5.56, 7.62x39, and x35 at a minimum of no less than 5000 per each of my guns and none show any visible barrel wear, nor does my velocity charts (the only way to quantitatively categorize barrel wear) show any drop in velocity that is any faster than a barrel using jacketed bullets. In fact, the wear was substantially less and extrapolating, I will likely get 3000-5000 more shots per barrel before needing replacement. So my vote is use HF black if you want, but then again it isn't my gun you are loading for so take my advice with a reasonable grain of salt. For me it works.
hey Dave Smith ..... I think the stink started with MSDS listing " mica" personally I don't believe it's a problem at all. . It might be an opinion... my main excuse is it's a pain to coat with.. I still have black bullets left over. .. and I'll shoot em! I've seen videos on this subject. It's misleading. I have no evidence that the black is somehow no good! thanks for watching and commenting! !!!!!
I tried this method and my powder coat (harbor freight) still wouldn't stick... dry tumbled for 45 min and I'd still barely stuck. Not sure what I'm doing wrong?
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature. Another method i tried and works is add plastic bbs, it works good.
hey buck, I don't think it would be good for your bullets and the powder coat. .. I don't have any problem at all with bullets sticking or not. . not something I would like to fix! thanks again for watching and commenting!
hey SirRober Noneya.... yes it'll be fine. I have mixed them on purpose. .. to make other colors.. it can be a little bit of a hassle mixing them though! thanks for watching! !!
+elvis ammo I am a lil but I don't think I'm doing it properly the hi tek is really a good finished product but not nearly as strong as powder coat have u tried any off the Eastwood colors
hey Todd , no but i would really like to try another brand to if for no other reason but to satisfy my experimental nature . I should really do that, I will see about another brand and share......
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Your shake reminded me of a night in NYC: my buddy and I found this long, narrow bar...couldn’t at first figure why the patrons were clustered in a 6’ length of the bar. Then the beautiful, young lady bartender slipped behind the bar in her low-cut jersey. As she leaned to get ice from the chest, the crowd went on tip-toes, looking down the front. She filled the steel shaker with ice and whiskey sour makins, and really put her body into making the mixed drinks. We stayed too long....bad hangover.
Thanks for the video. Have your system working good now. Added a step. At the 10 minute mark during cooking I shake the heck out of the basket. It reduces the number of bullets that have to be broken apart to 4 or 5 and only 1 or 2 that stick to the basket. Also in my attempts I've had to preheat at 200 degrees for 7 minutes starting with a cold oven. Keep up the great work and videos!
If you take them out of the oven, after coating, and dump them into a bucket of ice water... will it harden the lead?
Thanks Elvis I learn a lot from you just don't give up
Hey, Elvis...what’s the big deal? I don’t see manufacturers putting out much in powder coat. I took some store-bought shotgun slug loads apart....not even lubed. So, they don’t rust?? What’s the benefit?
The hardware cloth basket is fine for the powder coat and powder recovery step, But I am wondering if a silicone baking sheet would be easier for the bake on stage? Whether it would release and avoid residual baked on flash from the metallic basket, It appears that the basket is collecting residual coating after successive bakes. Would a silicone baking sheet be cleaner and have less basket transfer residue? What is the relative thickness of the different colors? Some bullet casters offer their bullets in slight under-sizes. ( How do you re-size them ?) You observe that the double dusting adds coverage in general, but is there a measure on the added coating (.007" per dusting)? An oven thermometer would add a little more info on how accurate a cheap toaster oven timed heat soaks actually are.. Great video on the process though pointing out different colors have different coating stickiness properties.
Nice video but have you considered trying the powder coat solution whereby mixing the powder with acetone? I did your method that you show in this video and I had good results concerning reducing the amount of boogers once I stood up each bullet on the baking pan that was lined with parchment paper. However there were places where the coating was VERY thin. The problem I'm having is that the powder doesn't want to build up much and even doesn't build up any coat at all in places on the bullets. I made sure the powder was mixed before applying the bullets to it. I then tried cleaning the bullets with acetone and allowing them to completely dry but I still had problems.I then tried shaking them and then shaking them some more and yes even shaking them more but the bullets still aren't getting coated like I see getting done in your videos. I noticed in one of your videos that you mentioned using a plastic container that is marked with the #5 recycling code. Does this have something to do with the type of plastic the container is and how well it will create static charge verses using another type of plastic container?
I appreciate your simplistic approach. The KISS approach always works best.
Thanks, Elvis - just did my first powder-coat using your method on a small batch of .45ACP RN and HF Red and it worked out pretty darned good!
This video was worth my time if only for the karate chop technique. :)
I finally picked up a pound of HF red to try against the stuff I've been using. I'll definitely be trying your process. Thanks for the tips!
hey there, Johnnys reloading bench, I knew that karate chop would scare somebody! ; ) hey what kind of powder have you been using? thank you for taking the time to comment!
I ordered 4 pounds from Smoke4320 over on the cast boolits forum. castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?252509-Hi-Quality-Powdercoating-Powder-For-sale
+Johnny's Reloading Bench Thanks for the link. .. I'll check it out!
Elvis, Hey Buddy Good video, I like how you share your experience with trial and error pointing out how you didn't fix things up preparing for your shoot. It's like we (The viewers) are just hanging out in your bullet shop having a cup of Coffee with you. Vary relaxed and simple. Many videos have been shot by others out there and there seems to be two ways to do it, shaking them up in bowls and the other method of using a vibratory tumbler. Personally I like your method. Pre heat them, then shake them and Bake them. pretty straight forward and simple, Not a lot of walking across the room or out to the Garage. everything is right in front of you. Good video even though I don't powder coat. Good shooting to ya,, Dave.
hey, Thorsaxe7777 Just as I intended. Glad to know it came across that way. As always it's good to hear from ya!!!!
One thing that is a virtue, "Grace", You don't come across like your viewers are in Class and there is going to be a test, You Kinda come across like "As soon as we are done here,, Were Going inside for some Home grown Fried Chicken, Sweet green beans with onion and Bacon, and some Home made whipped Potatoes and some Black Barry Cobbler"... hehehe Vary welcome and comfortable. Dave.
+Thorsaxe777 Man! now I'm hungry! !! And the blackberry cobbler! the only thing you left out was a nap after all that! ! ; ) I'm glad you can appreciate these things and not even be a powder coater! That's one of the things that make ya a good man Thorsaxe777. .. thanks for your comments! !!!
Nice job, Elvis - I enjoyed the whole video - want to try that HF White the "Elvis 4 / 140" method (why not since you are the first one on TH-cam doing it this way), first chance I get...Plus, just got the Lyman 50th Edition after I saw your video on that - it's good for us to have that... Have a good evening, FC
hey, Mr Fortune Cookie, It means a whole lot getting a "nice job" from the Fortune Cookie! been watching your show for a long time, Guess I owe you a" nice job" as well. ... Glad you got the 50th. It is well done. I like the Elvis 4/ 140 name you got going! Happy powder coating, Friend!
Elvis, I really appreciate what you do brother!! If it wasn’t for you and Fortune Cookie I would be in a bind trying to do this. I’m new to reloading, and I’m really enjoying it so far!!
Elvis, you the man!
Elvis what is your experience (Why) for Pre heating bullets @140°F before coating. ?
Great video Elvis, Thanks. I'm gonna do my first batch tomorrow. Gonna start with Harbor Freight Red. I gotta figure out how to make the basket, but if that don't take to long I should have my first batch tomorrow. I feel like I already know what I'm doing since watching the videos you make.
Well I did it today. Decent results, but I had a few problems. The first batch I did about 50 9mm casts in a folgers plastic coffee can. I did the 140 for 4 technique. The first problem was it took me about 8 minutes of shaking before it had what I considered a minimal coating. They looked about what the white in your video looked after cooking for 20 minutes at 400F. Fully covered with coating but blotchy. They were shiny all around so I figure they are OK. The second batch was about the same but I did about 125 at one time. At 8 minutes they had a better coating, but not as good as you show. They turned out better, but not as nice as yours. Do you have any suggestions for getting it to stick better/faster? Thanks.
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
I just tried the Eastwood translucent violet and it worked wonderful with the shake and bake method
Hey Elvis!
First, let me say thanks a lot. You and Fortune45LC have totally been my instructors and mentors when it comes to bullet casting. Really like what you're doing here. :)
I've recently made my first batch of cast bullets (using the flat tipped 124 grain 9mm mold you just experimented with), and then powder coated them with Harbor Freight Red.
That's where I'm having my problems. I did the powder coating exactly the way you do, and came up with uncoated places on a lot of the bullets I made. Yes, I saw uncoated areas before cooking them and re-shook them in the powder for a while. Still had bare spots.
I've been literally imitating you verbatim, and am at a loss as to what's going wrong.
Any thoughts?
hey Michael Kingswood... sometimes you might have to work with it to perfect it..... little bit longer in the powder as you swirl. don't dump them until they are coated good... Another Option is to go with the blue Eastwood powder I have a video on it... seems to be the one that works for anyone having an issue with other methods... it is the very easiest one to use... hope this helps ... thankyou for commenting and thanks for watching!!!!! best to ya
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
When I put the bullets in for 4 min at 140 they came out only a few degrees above the room temp. When holding them they hardly even felt warm. Was finally successful after 4th time at 140 degrees. Coat was still a little thin though.
My expanded metal tray is not good. The screen is kind of sharp and it seems to tear the prebaked powder off. So I put them in a common kitchen strainer, to keep the powder on then carefully moved them to the tray to bake. The stainless screen wire seems to be much better than the crap that I used. Going to see if I can find a big strainer and flatten the bottom and use for PC.
Elvis. I love your videos. I have a question about powder coating your cast bullets. Well isn’t the powder coat a sort of paint that gets baked on? I would think that that would destroy your firearm barrel. And is there a need for a gas check? I really want to get into casting. Please help!
Hi ! Please use some protection for your hands. A simple anti-dust mask is a good idea too. Thanks for your work ! Its great !
Awesome video I was about to get in to casting my own seeds to and just got afew powders white and black and waiting on lead cast mold and dies..new reloading
Elvis, I am looking forward to using this method. Glad I saw it before I went and wasted my money on a vibratory tumbler. I have been only reloading for less than a year. I reload .22lr. I cast, cut a hollow base and knurl the bullets. Now with powder coating. I can swage them to a nice straight wall with a nice deep hollow base with lots of bearing surface. I did one batch of powder coat bullets as an experiment. My question is this: I am going to be coating 38 grain bullets. Should I cut the time of 4 minutes down even more? Like 3 and a half?
hey , Hans Pcguy.... not too many people are reloading 22lr ... good for you , thats interesting ! As for how long to preheat for the little bullets, It's no problem experimenting..... 3-3 1/2 might get it done no problem!!!! happy powder coating to ya !!!! and thanks for watching........
Nice video!
I stopped using HF powder, while it got the job done there are better covering powders and easier to coat.
I use Smoke4320 powder which is like a dust compared to HF powder.
I use the same routine as you but skip the preheat.
helpfull tip.
Use black air soft BB'S in your powder. It will create more static much quicker and bullets get coated very quickly and completely.
you'll find no need to preheat.
hey Joe blow, I've heard about that powder, I'm definitely gonna get some of that to try out! happy powder coating to ya!
Your best video yet. Thaks for the tips.
hey there Tom, thanks for commenting, always good to hear from ya!
Great video. It got me to attempt HF Red for my first time. I had about 60% perfection...another 30% either had a few bare spots or lumps...the last 10% were really poor. I couldn't get them to release from the hardware cloth tray very well. Didn't wait that long, but they seemed cold. How long would you say you allow them cool down from the 400 degree oven to dumping them into the towel? Overall, I still consider it a success with a lot of room for improvement on my part.
hey James, you one of reasons why I done the video! wait until they want burn you to the touch to break em up, make sure you shake your powder before you use it, 140 degrees for 4 minutes shouldn't burn your hand but it is still hot....shake em in the powder and inspect by opening the lid, they should be completely covered but not clumped, if the coat looks thick, shake them in the screen real good to get the excess powder off. if they are not coated good give them another whirl and inspect. ... put em in the oven 400 degrees for 20 minutes, take em out and let them cool till you can just manage to handle them. slap em, knock em, break em up! you can even put them in an empty container and shake em up like that to break em up!!!! hope this helps my friend! !!!!
Elvis. I love your videos. Very informative. Can you tell me what is the reason for powder coating? I would think that it would damage your barrel.
It prevents leading of the barrel actually. It also acts like lube as opposed to putting lube in the lube ring.
Hello Elvis, I enjoyed your video immensely, my real interest in powder coating is for black powder and in particular the .577 minne ball type bullet. I you have had any experience with this projectile a response would be appreciated. Regards WRXS.
I must totally agree a big thank you from Northern Ireland for the video and the the knowledge you have given . without people like you TH-cam would die . thanks again
Thanks for the approval rating from Northern Ireland! Stephen Riddick....... Happy Powder Coating to ya! : )
Just watched the sizing video now I'm onto the truck load of lead . Again big thanks for the free knowledge your a star
+Stephen Riddick well I certainly appreciate your support! truckload was fun! and lucky......
hey Elvis! I love powder coating my bullets it just drives me nuts sometimes. one day they all coat great, the next day it will not adhere at all! no idea why. everything was done the same. happens ever so often. oh well, I just wait a couple days and try it again and it works great again. thanks for the vid!
hey trojan horse, ???? I don't know. .. glad it works sometimes! ? if nothing else you'll have to wait till the powdercoat gods are in line with you again! !! ; )
hey Elvis thanks for sharing your knowledge with us . I'm looking forward to starting power coating.
hey 147DMC,you won't never look back, it's a great way to jacket your bullets! !!! keep me informed on your progress! !! thanks for watching and commenting!
Well done Sir. Have to make a basket like yours. It seems to speed up the process very well.
hey mklean1, it's simple, cheap, and works great! thanks for taking the time to comment again! ! happy INDEPENDENTS DAY!
I've been tumbling my bullets in a jar with a squirt of cooking spray(vegetable oil), then dipping them in powder one at a time with long-nose pliers and setting them out on my toaster-oven tray. Tedious and time-consuming, but it works. Will try your method shortly.
hey Kw2798... I hear some funny stories on here! !! we have some serious reloaders and powder coaters! man I sure hope this works out for ya ..... You should also watch my blue bullet video. .. they are very beautiful! thanks for sharing and making me laugh at someone other than myself!
OMG I would just stick my head in that oven instead?
Elvis,
Very good video. My question is, with this being powder coated do you need to worry about doing the wax ring in the grooves of the bullets? Thanks and keep them coming.
hey Brian, no sir.... once you powder coat the bullet there is no need at all to lube the bullet additionally! thanks for the compliment on the videos, I will keep em coming! ; )
I've been powder coating now for about a year and a half. Funny how similar our methods are. Almost identical. One pro tip, buy powder from powder by the pound. Get white and black and mix them to make grey. I have no idea why but it is a near flawless coating every time. Coat with just the white or just the black and it's nowhere near as good. BTW, successfully tested my .223 PC non- gas checked loads tonight. Happy to report I got flawless function in my AR at 2200 FPS and accuracy was good enough. 11 cent a round and supper easy.
Tonsofgunsoffun, hey man! well that's pretty cool. ... funny how alike us loaders and powder coaters are! I really like the sound of the powdercoat, I will get some! thanks for finally chiming in..... not a lot of reports on successful powders . is it gloss black and gloss grey? so I don't get the wrong one.... I've mixed harborfreight powder into several successful colors as well... thanks for the info!!; )
Tonsofgunsoffun, hey man! well that's pretty cool. ... funny how alike us loaders and powder coaters are! I really like the sound of the powdercoat, I will get some! thanks for finally chiming in..... not a lot of reports on successful powders . is it gloss black and gloss grey? so I don't get the wrong one.... I've mixed harborfreight powder into several successful colors as well... thanks for the info!!; )
+elvis ammo papyrus white model # RAL 9018 Jet black model # RAL 9005 mix them to get grey
I'm really thinking I want to try powder coat. Are all the colors have the same property's hardness or leading etc.
hey, north Carolina prepper! no problem with either color at all, toughness, hardness, all seem to be the same. it's obvious with the different colors there is a different ratio of polymer and secondary ingredients, My "hunch " tells me that the yellow has more polymer In it.... I've been doing some durability testing. the jury is still out on that...But all are sufficient for the purpose of coated ammo! thanks for taking the time to comment! !!
Why all the different colors, why not different colors for different calipers ?
Outstanding. Another great upload. Merci Elvis Ammo.
bonjour my friend! !!!!
LOL...Yeah, turn the camera on and replacing that light bulb becomes a much more difficult task! Great video. What would be your guess at what temp would the bullet be for preheating? cold oven set to 140 degrees, no more than 4 minutes.....110-120 degrees? Thanks for the info......... Cmax
hey Cmax Arms.... yea the camera makes ya do silly things. .. ; ) the goal is to not go over 140 degrees because it can cause clumping. I'm hoping the 4 min will eliminate over heating in most ovens. I suspect their around the 140 mark. but I haven't used a temp gauge to know for sure. I Guess I should have!
I am in my beginning in casting ( got all the stuff, just have not done it yet) in learning about that and all the ways to prepare the lead bullets. Powder coating just makes the most sense to me. Thanks for all the help. Cmax
Thanks for your reply back my first attempt with powder coating what's Harbor Freight's not working out too well. I checked was Eastwood there wanting to charge me almost $15 for shipping to go to Illinois one pound of powder :( thanks again
@bidkid2020...check out buying the Eastwood Powder Coat from Amazon...free shipping with Prime...and it ships directly from Eastwood. My last order for Ford Light Blue was under $14.00 shipped 👍
Do you size the bullets before powder coating or after?
Weird. 4 year old video.. first I’ve seen it and and I came down to the comments to ask this same question that you asked just ten hours ago.
But does he?
In another of his videos, he says he does it after.
If the power coat creates a hard surface you shouldn't have to be as concerned about the aloy content I've checked the hardness of power coat verses a copper jacket and it seemed to take more force to crush the power coat could li be mistaken thanks for your videos ,,,
love the information. . thanks for your contribution to throw refined art of shooting sports
A word of caution for all reloaders using cast lead and powder coating! I just had my annual physical and blood work review with my doctor, my lead level was up enough to cause concern and a recheck in six months. The doctor explained that with lead "contact contamination" provides the highest risk followed by inhalation. I have not been using gloves for smelting, casting, and powder coating.... I will now be wearing long sleeves, latex/nitrile gloves, a respirator, and running a fan to exhaust any fumes/dust away. I dealt with cancer once.... don't want to have a second experience.
Thankyou so much for the info! carfull consideration should be taken. .. thanks bippie!
great approach, cant wait to give it a shot. do you use a convection oven or plain toaster oven? i bought a toaster oven for my kydex work, then regretted it as i see a lot of people saying convection is better for powdercoating
hey there Keith Hamilton.... I dont know much about the convection oven. i use regular ole toaster oven. thanks again!
great info. "tips and tricks" for the newby in powder coating. thanks
hey Leo 1 ,glad you liked it! thanks for watching and commenting!
That yellow SUCKS! Thanks to you, I ordered some Eastwood powders. Just tried the Ford Light Blue, and this stuff rocks! SOOO much better that the Harbor Freight.
Careful it has TGIC in it. At least work outside.
Hey Elvis; when you put your cast bullets into the oven initially and set it to 140 degrees for four minutes, can you tell us what the temperature of the bullets are when you pull them out of the oven after that four minutes is done?
After just four minutes, I'm pretty sure that the cast bullets haven't warmed up to the 140 degrees that the oven was set for. For all of us who have cheap little ovens with built in timers and thermostats that aren't really that reliably calibrated, maybe a temperature measurement of the actual bullets when you remove them from the oven would be helpful.
I know for certain that the thermostat on my cheap little toaster oven is no where near what the actual temperature settings on the dials state. In order to get a constant 400 degrees I have to set mine to 450 degrees. I use the same high-heat thermometer in my oven that I use in my melting pot in order to set the correct temperatures so If we had the actual temperature of those pre-heated bullets, it would go a long way to getting things right from the getgo.
Thanks for your help.
Tim M.
hey TIM MONTANO... I'll do my very best to let ya know! you make a good point.... thanks for your comment and question...
OK; thanks. I look forward to hearing what you come up with.
I use the electro-statatic method of powder coating but when I do rifle bullets using that method I don't get the even coating I'm hoping for.
I think that trying it your way might give me better results but, I'll have to wait and see. For long skinny bullets like the 6.5mm, it's absolutely critical that the powder coat adheres to the bullets as evenly as possible in order to maintain concentricity.
Thanks again.
Tim M.
Great job! I don't preheat my bullets but I see how that works for you so I'm going to try heating them first. Thanks for the instruction👍🏻
hey MrGlamis70, Glad to help..... thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't preheat anything, as long as the bullets and powder are at least room temp it works. But _any_ moisture will ruin the process so you must clean all old powder from the tumblers or buckets beforehand, any old powder will have sucked in moisture from the air. I put the bullets on a wire mesh container, 200 degrees celcius for 20 minutes, and shake the bullets at 7-8 minute mark to they won't get stuck to each other.
I dremeled my Lee molds a bit bigger and removed the grease groove to gain some grains of mass in same space (and more rifling bearing surface).
+Spörde Spyrdenstein you ever consider maybe using silicone gel gel packs in your powder to keep the moisture out, instead of removing the powder from the bowls?
I bought a big pack of these things from eBay...China. Got them to put in my temporary gun powder jar. Sounds logical to use them in the temporary powder bowl.
+Hans Pcguy yep woks great! !!!
Elmo good video should we powder coat all bullets we cast, regardless of caliber ??
hey Lc Bill.. I powdercoat all my calibers! good shooten to ta!
After a couple of years of powder coating lead cast bullets I only use the red as it provides the best finish; for me the other colors are not worth the effort when I can get far better results with the red. My current procedure..... I wash the cast bullets in acetone to clean the surface, after drying I place the bullets in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes at 150 to 160 degrees; remove the bullets from the oven and dump them in the shaker and vigorously shake for at least three minutes, dump the bullets into a sifter so the excess powder falls through into a catch container, stand the powder coated bullets on end on a baking tray covered with non-stick aluminum foil, bake for 20 to 25 minutes at @ 475 degrees... I could get away with just one coat but I am a little particular so I do a second coat. After the first coat I let the bullets cool to the point that they can be handled but are still quite warm to the touch, then dump them back in the shaker and repeat... the result is outstanding. I have tried just dumping the powder coated bullets on a screen and baking them but I tend to get small bare spots on the bullets and they clump together and when broken apart there are bare spots so I stand them on end for baking. Using the above described routine I have coated over 10,000 bullets the past 9 months. Two key things that have made a huge improvement for me.... #1 - acetone wash, and #2 - preheating the bullets before dusting them in the shaker.
hey, bippie. .. that's awesome you have a system that works for ya! your definitely more ocd. than I am! I never understood the acetone bath, if the bullet is fresh cast metal, what could be on them? thanks again Bippie!
I agree! I would think that the cast bullets would be clean and "pure"... But I have noticed a difference in coating when I do a quick acetone wash. Have a great day.
+bippie23456 please keep me updated with the lead levels as you get updates! thanks again!
I'm using harbor freight red. Bullets have not touched a thing since they came out of the mold except for a towel. I've tried as low as 25 bullets in the plastic bowl and as much as about 150. The only thing I can think of is my toaster oven may not really function at 140. It does have a 150 setting which I have tried and slightly above to no avail.
Do you have problems with the powder coat leaving bare spots when you pull the bullets apart?
hey Alan, just about zero on the bare spots!
elvis, do you resize before or after coating, or not at all?
hey there Mr pels, I always size after powder coating. .. let me know how it goes for ya! ....
Do you count 4 minutes after the oven is at 140 or just set 4 minutes from cold? I guess what I am asking is do you preheat the oven? Sorry for all my dumb questions but I am real new to this.
hey Richard Venneman. .. hey man , no dumb questions. .. I get it. you're one of the reasons I do this to help others in the craft! I haven't seen a difference myself. preheat or start from cold.. happy powder coating to ya!
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
Elvis, I just did my second fairly big batch. It looked like the oven was only abound 360 degrees. I ignored it and kept going. The bullets turned out pretty well. (did 2 coats) But now i noticed that they were starting to stick together, 2 days after baking them. It also seems that they are scratchable and not the coating is not hard enough. I think that they did not bake hot enough. Can I throw them back in the oven and bake them again?
hey Hans Pcguy.... I never have thrown them back in But dont see why not. put a few in and see how they turn out! I have found however that a thin to reasonable thin first coat is better than a thick coat in my opinion.. thick coats seems like it would weaken the bullets contact in the rifling. (my opinion) ....not sure about 360 degrees at the least 375
Do you run those through a sizer before you powder coat them?
Size afterwards
I thought to powder coat one had to electrically charge the metal to get the powder to stick? Am I missing something here? This is awesome! I guess the preheat causes the powder coat to just stick enough to the lead that it acts like electricity?
Hey Christopher Jefferson... No one ever said that!!! but I am a southern countryboy.... : ) ... the objective of powdercoating is getting the powdercoat to stick so you can bake it! us casters and reloaders have created all kinds of ways to make it happen.. (got creative) as you see the preheat method works. I have another video using blue powder that is even easier to get to stick! we have even spun them in plastic bowl to create static , and put the bullets in our tumblers with the powder.. and made it sick that way. then in the oven at 400 degrees for 20 minutes to get that hard coat we like... hope this helps.. But your not missing anything, electrostatic is the normal way....
The static is how things are normally powder coated but for bullets, the heat is plenty. One thing people do is put airsoft bb's in a whipped cream tub and put the powder and bullets in there and swirl them. The bb's and tub make a static charge on the bullets. That was the method I used but Im switching to this now. Way easier than picking them out of the bbs.
I did my first batch of "Elvis Method" pc bullets. UGH! I had problems with a used toaster oven that I bought... took 5 tries to get the powder to stick so I could bake them. Then I screwed up worse....The oven was holding at 400 for the first few minutes so I went and did something else. Came back and shot it with the thermometer gun...490 degrees. I over cooked them. The color got darker than it should be and I can scrape the coating off with my finger nail . Question, can I just give them another coat? I wouldn't be able to get the coating off completely by any means. How would I do another coat 4 min at 400 degrees etc again just like the first coat?
yea....Hans, that's really hot!!! you're right the same way to recoat.... you can go as low as 375 but not much over 400
Hey Elvis can you use wax paper instead of a wire basket? One would think they would not stick???
hey Marty Scruggs. .. I think after ya do it a couple of times you'll realize it's not bad at all.. the sticking. .no problem. .. thanks for watching!
Hey Elvis, do you wait between temperature changes ( 140 degrees then 400 degrees ) before doing these different processes?
hey Nick J.... no I just do 140 for 4 min and in the powder to coat and right in and set to 400 for 20 min! no wait!
Is there any difference between the colors? Do they offer certain advantages or is it just for looks/personal preference?
Mostly looks. Some argue that different brands or colors give a better coating, as in they apply easier. Some also say certain brands are stronger than others and do a better job...
In my experience with coating for around 20 different calibers, Harbor Freight cheap red color works as well as more expensive brands.
I tried HF White, Yellow, Red, and Black. Black is the worse, 3 coats still can't get a glosy finish. However, White and Red can be one coated with a glossy finish.
the one thing I haven't tried was putting my toaster on 140 and always on. My toaster has a setting to only be one while the timer is going or always on. Maybe it's just not a constant enough heat. I'll try again on my next rounds.
Thanks for the video..I would wear some surgical gloves though when doing this stuff.
your welcome glockster68. .. and thanks for the tip of caution. ... thanks for watching and commenting!
What about mixing powder? Speckled bullets
Great video Elvis. can you do a video of how you powder coat your 223 cast bullets? im sure its the same method but its easier to see how its done.
hey, bodyxpolitic! I sure can, I'll make sure I throw that in somewhere! thanks for chiming in. Good to hear from ya! !!
I've been meaning to ask you about your targets too. did you make them?
+boddyxpolitic yea, your probably referring to the dueling tree and the rest. I did. that tree Will use some ammo in a fun competition! definitely worth the work!
The hardest break apart is the ones with the butt to butt. They are a pain in the tail.
Help. I have tried your method and vibratory along with tumbler and can't make HF red stick. Preheated and even overheated resulting in only one side clumped up. Used #5 bowl. How soon after casting do you coat? The only thing I can think of is my bullets are over a year old. Stored in airtight containers. They look shiny but is it possible they have oxidation preventing the powder from sticking? Would acetone remove it? The only thing I got to work was by adding my homemade shot to the vibratory tumbler after 3 hours. The only problem I had was I now have brown bullets. I graphite coat my shot! Not sure if the graphite would hurt but color is boring.
hey Douglas Files ... Sorry for all the trouble your having. After making contact with the graphite you will for sure need to give them a bath in acetone... This may help for any oxidation as well. Another step might be to get ya some Eastwood Ford light blue... This seems to be a more fool proof powder for those who are having trouble... Let me know how it goes?
Got a sample from vendor on cast boolits form. Same process and worked first time!
hey Douglas Files... Awesome! Your on your way! Thanks for the update........
Elvis is in the building...nice videos.
Do you size the cast bullets after powder coating?
Thank you, Franco.
hey Franco Neus.... Thanks for the comment. .. I size after powder coating. .. on rare occasion I don't size at all. . like with my 233 out of the lee mold. they run a little better without sizing. I have a video on the subject. . " sizing or not " thanks for watching!
all right, I finally tried this with some harbor freight red and it came out super lumpy. I can't imagine that it would smooth out when it gets cooked on hard. I had the same problem when I tried to use the powder coat mixed with paint thinner method. it went on super lumpy. I hoped that it would smooth out in the high temp bake but it didn't, so I am sure that the same thing would happen if I baked these. I think that this batch is a total loss . do you have any advice? I really want this to work like it has for you.
hey George Stuart. ..I've seen and heard of this kind of thing. .. first do very small batch to get the hang. 2nd there is a chance that you oven is getting the bullets too hot.. turn down the heat and work (up) until you get adhesion. ..lumps almost always happen when they are too hot. 3rd make sure to get the bullets in and out of powder especially if they are clumping. .. also if the powder is thick on the bullets. .. Give them a more vigorous shaking in the screen...
elvis ammo wow, thanks for the quick response. am I right in thinking that there is no way to salvage this batch? just have to remelt and recast and try again from the beginning?
Hey George Stuart... sometime when I see a comment like that, someone is in the middle of the project... And If I can respond quickly It's helpful... : ) i never know! The other solution is to use the Eastwood powder. I have a video on that (it's the ford light blue" Let me know how it goes!
Thanks elvis
I'm having trouble with this method can't get powder to stick after preheating no matter what way or how long I shake them they will not coat,,i also just started today and im not using the same plastic container as you.
AnimuRedneck my opinion - humidity affects static electricity. around Seattle I get good coating in summer, terrible in rainy winter.
Hey, Im sure youve said it somewhere before, but what did you make that screen out of? I work at a hardware store and I wanna pick one up exactly like that to make one for myself.
hey Jamie Smith. .. it's called hardware cloth... it may even be called rabbit wire... thanks for watching! !!!
Elvis im going to load my marlin with the 173 grain rnfp i cast and powder coated. Whats your opinion on wheather i should gas check as normal or do as fortune cookie suggests and forgo gc. Im using imr 3031 also. Starting at 27 grains
hey Edad, I rarely use gc. only to compare out of curiosity. and the only difference I find is usually a fluke. ... you still have to consider the bullets tensile strength. as always. .. hope this helps. let me know how it goes and what you decided on? thanks again for watching and commenting! !!
Hello friend, tell me what is the purpose of this coated bullets for lead and antimony? Where they sell that dust? Is there any functional difference between colors, influencing ballistically?
hey, 270 WeaMag... The purpose us to coat the bullet with powdercoat instead of lube. Less smoke, Less Friction, Ability to load closer to jacketed data, Cleaner with no mess collection on the bullet. .... Red is the easiest color to use and coat. one thin coat is all needed. This stuff comes from harborfreight or harborfreight.com for around 5 buck a pound. ... hope this helps! happy powder coating my friend! !!
elvis ammo I understand, instead of oiling the bullet in grease channels, this dust adheres covering and give less smoke and less friction in the passage of the striae. Increases the velocity of the projectile; It is easy to clean the barrel of the gun after a shooting practice? Its use is recommended in new weapons or something and used? Lyman molds have several sizes and as you know its oil grooves are large; this dust can fill or cover the 100%? Excuse me ask you both but I care very much; thanks for answering very good videos.
+270WeaMag yes powder coat is the powder form of paint or polymer, and it coats the bullet. when you put it in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, it then bakes on the bullet. Lee makes really nice molds as well. lyman is also very good. You won't need to fill the grooves of the bullets. . hope this helps!
elvis ammo Sure served me well your help friend Elvis; I appreciate your answers; now to try to find that powder polymer, really I care too much. By the way the website that gave me does not open; where else could you find?
hey 370WeaMag try this link .. www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=red+powder+coat
hi elvisdid ya ever try quenching in cold water after coating?
hey Jim pels...yea I have.. but I really couldn't find a distinctive difference! maybe someone else has but I haven't. .. thanks again for watching and commenting!
Just wondering if it possible to do this to slugs or not??
Sure, why not. Slugs are just big bullets.
So when you say 140 degrees, is that F or C?
i think 140 Fahrenheit, he was touching them after. just to pre heat the bullets.
Where are you located elvis? I'm in CO and I can't get the HF powder coat to stick to the bullets for the life of me. I went and bought some Cardinal Paints blue and it sticks without even heating the bullets to 140. The problem with the blue is bare spots on the bullets when I pull them apart.
hey Alan.... I'm in SC. it always does make some difference. if the bullets haven't come in contact with anything since they come out of the mold... (lube etc,etc. ) powder needs to be shook up, A small batch of bullets 3/4 to 1 inch of powder in the bowl, What color are you using? harbor freight? trying to think what it could be? if you have a bad attitude while you're working the bullets don't like that! !!! ; ) maybe we can figure this out. ..?
if you cant get harbor freight to ship look up Smoke4320 on Castboolits.gunloads.com in the swapping and selling section, he has a sample pack and 1lb of powder is 18.50 shipped, Tell him Remiel sent you
+Dennis Copp II, yeah. .. I need to try one of those sample packs myself!
+Dennis Copp II thanks Dennis, I'll look into that
thank you! hope this works for my slugs.. love your ingots
Do you size them first or after coating ?
after coating works best for consistent loading and shooting.
I ordered a lb of black and white from powder by the pound based on anothers good review, the total with shipping came to a little over 40 bucks. Man that aint cheap it better coat them boolits like golden nuggets. Thats 20 dollars a pound.. I guess ill have a life time supply.anyway cant wait to see how it works without gas checks first.
hey edad. let me know how the black and white powder works for ya... the price was the reason I stopped short of getten me some. I am interested in your review. ...
What happened to harbor freight powder coat red? I can’t find it anywhere.
Reloaders bought it up
Thanks man, I love your vids
I do auto paint it is the opposite , WHITE. is easy just like snow you get snow blindness if you are painting all day .
hey Michael, that's interesting, I'm glad you chimed in! I was thinking of stopping by my local body shop to see if they would sell me a couple things (colors to try? I do however feel like yellow and white have more polymer In them? whatcha think?
3 videos in 1 !!!! 3 in 1.....happy powder coating to ya! !!
I use to pan lube so most of my bullet molds are not tumble lube style, will that matter when I start powder coating?
hey 850doc....it won't matter at all.....happy powder coating to ya!
So THAT’S where all of the lead supply is....
👍👍🍻. You make it look pretty easy
hey, Reloaderdude, that's because it is! !!!! I never get tired of your thumbs-up
Do you ever pre heat the oven at 140 or 400 ?
hey Buck Barnes. ... No, it don't seem to help anything in my trials. ... Thanks for watching!
What is the BRN Hardness number of your bullets...?
If you damage the bullet base the accuracy will suck
The only report I have ever heard of black HF causing barrel wear is due to some guy on Castboolit forums complaining about throat erosion in his 40 cal S&W M&P a few years back. If you read the thread, we later find out that the finding was not conclusive as he did not fire hf exclusively. However, this rumor has spread persistently just like the "aluminum gas checks al oxide will wear out your barrel" myth. While I can't say black HF does not cause damage (since we still don't know what caused that wear, maybe S&W uses cheap and cruddy metal that wears faster to make hammer forging easier) I can say that I have used hf black powder coat since 3 months after wiederlader posted his video on epoxy coated bullets and have run it through several guns exclusively 50 bmg (not exclusively cast), .30-06, 45, 40, 5.56, 7.62x39, and x35 at a minimum of no less than 5000 per each of my guns and none show any visible barrel wear, nor does my velocity charts (the only way to quantitatively categorize barrel wear) show any drop in velocity that is any faster than a barrel using jacketed bullets. In fact, the wear was substantially less and extrapolating, I will likely get 3000-5000 more shots per barrel before needing replacement.
So my vote is use HF black if you want, but then again it isn't my gun you are loading for so take my advice with a reasonable grain of salt. For me it works.
hey Dave Smith ..... I think the stink started with MSDS listing " mica" personally I don't believe it's a problem at all. . It might be an opinion... my main excuse is it's a pain to coat with.. I still have black bullets left over. .. and I'll shoot em! I've seen videos on this subject. It's misleading. I have no evidence that the black is somehow no good! thanks for watching and commenting! !!!!!
I tried this method and my powder coat (harbor freight) still wouldn't stick... dry tumbled for 45 min and I'd still barely stuck. Not sure what I'm doing wrong?
4 mins @ 140 isn't hot enough to get it done. I do 5 mins @ 200. Every oven is different so do some testing. Since you tried 4 mins @ 140, it's not hot enough so try 4 mins @ 180, take 1 bullet out and drop it in do a shake, see result. If still doesn't stick, keep increasing the temperature.
Another method i tried and works is add plastic bbs, it works good.
I think the swirling in plastic tubs creates static electricity which causes the powder to cling.
@@irvin927 Is that degrees F or C?
@@ek8710 F, 200C is way too hot, it will melt all the powders.
Elvis what would happen if you used Pam on the screen?
hey buck, I don't think it would be good for your bullets and the powder coat. .. I don't have any problem at all with bullets sticking or not. . not something I would like to fix! thanks again for watching and commenting!
Thanks for your advise. I am going to try to do a half jacket.¹
Why can you not just spray paint them with heavy duty enamel paint?? New reloader here.
Does that pass the hammer test?
You make look so easy. Good job. How about bacon egg and cheese .
hey,Nick. ...... watch out! !!! food is my first love!!! especially bacon! !!!!! ; )
Learning a lot. Thanks
your welcome again Rodney Hardee!
Could someone tell me a site to buy pownder coating pownder? I am from Brazil and I do not know where to buy it and in Brazil it does not. Thanks
Eastwood Powder, Powder by the pound It's the same powder used in the automotive industry .. Hope this helps ya
Harbor Freight has a good RED as well
elvis ammo )
Man is so hard to find small pistol primers
what happens if the powders mix?? is it still useable
hey SirRober Noneya.... yes it'll be fine. I have mixed them on purpose. .. to make other colors.. it can be a little bit of a hassle mixing them though! thanks for watching! !!
I tried your method but I can not get the finish I want vs hi tek supercoat or just spraying them
hey Todd, I can't hardly imagine much of an improvement on a better coat or more evenly coated than the red! you must be more O.C.D. than I am!!!!; )
+elvis ammo I am a lil but I don't think I'm doing it properly the hi tek is really a good finished product but not nearly as strong as powder coat have u tried any off the Eastwood colors
hey Todd , no but i would really like to try another brand to if for no other reason but to satisfy my experimental nature . I should really do that, I will see about another brand and share......
You videos are awesome