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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- I found a very reasonably priced broaching kit on Amazon and decided to purchase one. In this video I give my honest opinion of this set and show it in action cutting a keyway.
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Affiliate links to items in this video:
Shars 1/8" - 3/8" kit part # 404-9621 R (several kits are listed mine is the 18 piece) guides in 1/8" sizes
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Shars 1/8" - 3/8" kit part # 404-9624 R (also 18 piece) guides in 1/16" sizes
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Accusize 1/16" - 1/8" kit
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1) I've always wanted a broaching set. This one looks pretty cool.
2) Looks like rebuilding your shop press to be more usable can be a whole series of new videos. Make it less sloppy, add air over hydraulic jack (or can you modify the current jack?).
3) Regarding building up your shop tooling, using your brain and whatever tools you have until you have the right tool, My first "lathe" was a drill press and a few different files. Took forever to shape something, but it worked.
So far I am very happy with this set. Rebuilding my press as a video series... good idea I will add it to the list of projects.
Nice! As soon as you said it wasn't deep enough I thought 'luckily you have a broach that fits that if you turn it around'. 😆
Exactly! In retrospect I wish I had only moved the broach in the cutting direction. I am assuming it is kind of like a reamer and going "backwards" can effect accuracy. I don't think I did any damage to the broach but something I will keep in mind for the future.
I love my broaching kit, even though I’ve only used it twice. It’s a must have.
One of those things you don't need often, but worth every penny when you do need it!
Thanks for the video, I just bought the 10-10A kit with 18 bushings ranging from .500" to 1.5625" Hope to use it this weekend on a custom distributor I am making for my car.
Glad it helped
I have been watching the prices on this tools for years. Thanks for sharing. Your going to love the air over hydraulic pump. Next for me is a press brake attachment. I saw a video years ago on rigging up the release valve with a foot leaver, it is the best. I used my press to flatten the end of conduit for a geo-dome. That a lot of pressing. Four hurricanes later it’s still going strong.
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully Amazon gets them back in stock. they ran out shortly after I posted this video. I need to rework the entire press. I have big plans for it sound like another video series idea.
@@dazecarsI ordered one the other day and it came in today, wowed great set. I glad you check your set and had a tune up for the small guide. I used the smallest cutter first and then the wider one, two cuts easier then all at once. Great tools.
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Looking for a set of broaches, mostly for square holes, probably also some key ways. First good review I've seen thanks man. Subbed.
Glad I could help
Just bought this kit. It's worth it's weight in gold
agreed
Excellent review! I too have wanted to add a broaching kit to my arsenal for years and you may have just convinced me to move forward with a purchase. 👍😁
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully Amazon gets them back in stock. they ran out shortly after I posted this video.
Hi, algorithm just stumbled me onto your very nice channel. I've had a look through the back issues and sub'd. I like the gentle humour (ok, humor!) and the down to earth practicality. I was just looking at the lathe clutch - I don't need one but I like seeing sound engineering - especially when there are follow ups about improvements. Incidentally I built the James Clough ELS and it is excellent.
Welcome aboard! Glad you are enjoying my videos. ELS is easily in my top 5 upgrades.
Been wanting/needing this for my arsenal. Hope someone sells some perches soon since I just bought this. 🤣
TH-cam is outstanding for "helping" viewers spend money
When using a press with H motion slop (vs arbor press) it’s highly recommended to relieve pressure on the ram intermittently to realign/correct misalignment and reducing the chance of breaking your broach. Slow and steady does not compensate and when you’re driving a 20 ton hydraulic pump there is no way you’ll feel anything on the other end.
Excellent advice to relieve the pressure and reposition. I will keep that in mind for the next one. As to "feeling" what the press is doing, with my press I can totally feel it. I have bent and shaped everything from 1/4" steel down to thin copper and aluminum. By taking very small slow strokes (speed is more important that length of the stroke) I am immediately aware if the resistance is increasing or decreasing. Took me quite a while to get a feel for it but once I figured out speed was the key it allowed me to fine tune what ever I am doing in the press.
@@dazecars ask any experienced toolmaker about feeling. With your fingertips on the tap wrench, nothing between you and the work, “feeling” each tooth cutting, then “click” and your tap is broken. The 2 foot handle attached to a 20 ton hydraulic Jack is anything but a sensitive device.
Your not wrong. I wasn’t trying to argue that what I was doing was the “correct way” or even full proof against snapping a broach. I was just saying that I have a lot more “feel” than one would expect especially with the right technique. Obviously the better solution is to eliminate all side loading and that will be an upcoming project. Thanks again for the comment.
You definitely can feel it. I used a much less expensive 3/16 broach from AliExpress on mild steel and a similarly janky press and while it worked fairly well I think it was taking too much bite per tooth. I encountered quite a bit of resistance in places, but the problem is that you can never back out, so it doesn't matter whether you can feel it or not.
@@topduk for me the "feel" keeps me out of trouble. if pressure is remaining consistent than I know I am doing something right, if pressure suddenly goes up I can reset. You are correct that you cant "back out" but by taking small slow bites I can feel if I am getting in danger and change up before something brakes rather than appealing a full round from the press and snapping something.
This probably sounds crazy, but I’ve had a lot of luck making broach guides by 3D printing them. Just an FYI in case you find yourself trying to broach an odd sized hole.
Not craze at all. I could totally see that working. I imagine that each guide would only be good for a limited number of cuts before the plastic failed... but how often does a person actually use it, and if the guide failed printing another one would be a piece of cake. I especially like this idea because the printer can be "working" while you are doing something else. If you are making the guide on a lathe or mill it is taking up time.
What a great idea - I would not originally thought that would work. Can't wait for an opportunity to need to print one 👍👍😎👍👍
I never thought of that to be honest but collecting all the other parts seems like it might be a lot of trouble.
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Make yourself some arbor extensions the same diameter as the arbor on your press in increasing inch long increments out of mild steel. Turn, or silver braze, a collar on each one that slides over the existing arbor to keep it in line when in use with others or the existing arbor. (If you are going to turn a separate collar you need to start with larger diameter stock and own a lathe.)Imbed a round neodymium magnet in a counterbore on the large end of each extension. The magnets that come with a countersunk hole in them work well for this.( The counterbore should be just slightly deeper then the magnet’s thickness. The magnets are brittle and you do not want anything pressing on them.)You now have a set of extensions that link together and keep you from having to move the presse’s bed up and down all of the time. While you are at it, make yourself a storage rack that holds each one that angles down towards the back side of the press, and mount it in the upper left hand inside corner of the press. The collars then retain them in this rack thanks to earth’s gravity. In that way they stay with the press and don’t get lost.
When you are broaching a keyway always stop a couple of times, take the workpiece out with the broach still in it and look at the underside where the backside of the broach is suppose to be making contact with the collared bushing. In some materials the broach starts to dig in and pull itself away from the slot in the collared bushing. If you continue in such a manner you run the risk of a tapered slot and, or, a broken broach.
I would recommend that you always use the jack handle that came with your press for broaching. It gives you what may be termed “machinist’s feel” for the entire process. You may want to shorten it up over time as you use your press. Save the air over for press fits and the like. Unless you are broaching 500 pieces, you do not need the speed.
Those are some excellent ideas. I need to rework the entire press. I have big plans for it and your extensions are a really good idea. Also good advice on broaching technique. The handle I am using is perfect for this press. I use the press all the time to form things (way more than just bruit force) and I can feel exactly what is going on. My reason for wanting air over hydraulic is just to take up the initial gap. Once I get it close I will hand crank to have the best "feel" for what I am doing.
A needed mod for your press would be: quick change variable length posts for under the ram, would make for much less changing of the pin on long stroke pushes like that one was
Not a bad idea. I am actually going to take my press apart and totally upgrade it and that would be something good to add the the plans.
The groove is cut deep enough as long as the broach slides into the corresponding hole.
In fact it should not be recessed, otherwise you may end up with a broach that start with an angle when the first tooth bite, and that's the quickest way to break it.
It wasn't cut deep enough. You could not slide it into the guide when the guide was in the hole.
If you ever want to mill the jig deeper or wider a good trick is to put the broach in the jig inside the mill vice and indicate on the broach to get it squared
Thanks for the tip!
You should have put the small bushing in a matching hole and made sure that the broach was actually too large before modifying it. The smaller OD of the bushing means that when the slot was cut a larger percentage of the diameter was removed. Possibly the answer would have been to just chamfer the sides of the pilot section of the broach.
Thanks for the input, It was for sure the the guide. I compared the depth to the other guides and they were all identical excep this one that was not deep enough.
Does this come with the plug to broach a key slot in a 1" hole?
Yes it does, I have two kits listed one that is 1/8” measurements so 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and so on. The other one is by 1/16 but in 1/8” spacing, so 9/16, 11/16 13/16. You would need the other one to have 1”
Nice informative video, thank you! Just one FYI, is that an older model HF press with the cast iron, aka "exploding" press plates? Check into it, be safe, thanks.
I know all about the "exploding press plates" The ones in the video are made of steel, I had them cut by a water jet cutter just because of the reports of exploding cast plates. I only use my cast one for extra space but then they are always on top of the steel ones so all the pressure spanning the base is on the steel. Thanks for the heads up if I had not been aware I would have needed to know, and now someone else might read this and learn about it.
For comparison a plain 3/16 broach with shims from AliExpress was $20 delivered and worked well for about 9 steel spur gears I made. Maybe the same factory, who knows? I wouldn't be too quick to buy a set unless you do a lot of that kind of thing.
good to know, thanks for the input
Make sure you have padding on the floor underneath the press. If the broach falls through and hits the floor your nice broach will be in two pieces.
Good tip! thanks
great review
thanks! glad you liked it
Isn't using that broach like a file the same as turning a reamer backwards when you reverse the stroke.
The cutting edge isn't supported and will dull.
Not sure, but I would avoid using the broach in that way.
You are not wrong, the potential is there to dull the broach, thankfully that was not the case with my kit. I didn't "file" enough with it to cause issues. In the future however if I needed to do something similar I would only go one direction.
The best way to had the depth of the 1/2 bushing is to mesured it with the broach inside. Total height with the spacer should be .560-570" f
good tip, thanks
@@dazecars you can print these www.pfeiferindustries.com/documents/Square%20Keyway%20Tolerances%20AGMA%209002A86.pdf
I need to get a 3d printer
Ya know you can pull the pin down manually and adjust the big gap out with the screw on top of the jack.
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Everyone does the easy broaching videos and near no one does blind hole broaching when i need one
you need to use the single cutter technique. In other words you make a cutting tool that has a single finger sticking out that is the correct width and depth as the keyway you are wanting to make, then you put the part that needs to be broached into either a lathe or mill, line everything up and take a pass to the bottom of the blind hole. The machinery is never turned on your just using the lathe or mill to hold the work, hold the cutter and manually make the passes. Continue the process and cut the keyway by making passes .001" deeper at a time.
If you had used an already broached piece and turned the cutter around, it would have come out perfect.
I am assuming you are referring to opening up the hole in the guid? IF so yes that is a good idea however I didn't have an already broached piece in that size.