S&W M&P Shield Plus | How To Properly Clean and Maintain
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2022
- Full cleaning of a S&W M&P Shield Plus..links below...
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**Please note this video is for educational and entertainment purposes ONLY and complies with ALL of the TH-cam community guidelines. Video production was performed in a safe manner at a designated and closed range. - บันเทิง
Cleaned my first firearm for the first time today -- thank YOU👍
Great camera angles and lighting. This is a better takedown and cleaning video than the ones produced by the cleaning product salespeople!
Can anyone explain why he is wearing gloves ? My dad said in his 51 years he never seen that. Has me curious . Maybe this guy has a medical condition ?
@@BeardedDragonMan1997 some products recommended using gloves and even have warnings about prolonged contact with skin but to my understanding most CLP you don't need to especially if you're just cleaning one gun...just need to be aware of the health risks with any sort of chemical.
I personally also use gloves just because I just don't feel like having that stuff everywhere and I'm no chemist so I wear gloves just in case. Really just comes down to preference.
@@BeardedDragonMan1997 lol me either😂
Great video! I just picked up a Shield Plus to replace my EDC of the past 10 years and just needed a quick how-to just to make sure I wasn't going to be missing anything outside of the basics (ie: barrel, rails, etc).
Thanks for the video! First time gun owner and you made the cleaning easy!!!
I love that you put the gun itself on the list of required items! Haha
If you don't have any picks you can place the patch over top whatever crevice or slide crease and then take your brush face and place over the exposed portion of the patch and just scrub! The sharp bristles will help push the patch down into the entire surface area. This is why I like the Otis blue bristle nylon brush. Honestly the brush/patch does a much better job than picks over pretty much the entire pistol except for the super tight spots like trigger housing and fire control module on the lower portion of the pistol. You're right about people completely missing their extractor claw too! I've had alot of customers come in with ejection or stove pipe issues and now the very first thing I check is the extractor claw. Since the repeated pressure is constantly intact in litteraly the dirtiest portion of the gun it can get filthy fast! I've had a few come in where the carbon and whatever primer acids have actually formed a rock hard bugger over the claw and has to let it soak and chip away at it. When an extractor is that filthy and gummy you can almost guarantee that the striker module and spring are just as bad.
Had to come back and watch your video again. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Just purchased a new one!
Thanks for the video, I needed to know how to get the slide of the lower rail. But I will say that was the cleanest gun I've ever seen cleaned. In Kodiak when I was done shooting every cotton cleaning pad was covered in blackness.
great vid I plan to keep this for future reference of cleaning
Great demonstration. Thank you.
Simple and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks for the video! Really helpful, I appreciate you!
Great video. Thanks for making this!
Your video was extremely helpful today while I cleaned and lubed my Shield Plus after putting the first 50 rounds through it, thank you!
Keep it clean brother I have mine brought it this year man keep it SWEET 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Easy cleaning unlike other hand guns. Good job 👍
This was so helpful, thanks!!
Thank You! I just got mine yesterday....
Thank you for this
For cleaning of the rails there is no need for picks.. take an old ID, credit card, or my personal favorite, a hotel room card and put it inside an old t shirt. Fits perfectly inside the slide rails and makes getting the gunk and old oil out a breeze!
excellant video, thanks so much
Great job!!
Thank you!
Great video
Easy peezy! Thanks !
I use ballistol, it works great.
Spring is sort of confusing how it has nothing to lock into. Glad I found your video so I’m not doing anything wrong.
The guide rod locks perfectly into the front housing and the underside lip of the barrel. That retention alone will hold it in place but will fall if dropped or messed with. What locks it in is there's a face that meets the locking block of the lower end of the pistol. Once these two surfaces meet the guide rod is now locked in place and won't go anywhere unless something catastrophic happens like the inside rod surrounded by the coil bends or snaps under pressure which is extremely rare.
Thanks Bro
Thanks for the "break down."
One can push the cleaning pads or the bristle brush with the rod from either end of the barrel. Since the rod of the cleaning rod rotates free it does not matter which end you push it from. The rifling is the same twist direction from either end, just be sure to push it holding the handle. Your arm force is not a machine and is moving way too slow and w very little force to do any type of damage to the barrel.
I agree. I’ve never pulled a patch through a barrel the way he did. Very inefficient.
And I never do it just once... I ramrod it back and forth like last night's date.😏
Very good
Only part missing in the video is the part that confused me: Moving the sear deactivation lever around. I was kind of afraid of moving that part around. Didn't want to mess up a brand new gun!
It will reset itself when you insert a magazine
You can opt to not pull the trigger to release the slide. You can push the sear disconnect lever down instead. That is unless they did away with it for the plus version.
I believe it is still there and yellow for easy identification.
Yes still there
Agreed. The S&W Instruction Manual does not say to pull the trigger. It does say to lower the sear deactivation lever.
Yeah so I’m wondering which is the correct way. I think I’ll do what the manual says to be safe.🤷🏻♂️
Only way mine works
Haven't cleaned mine since I purchased it because I thought I needed special tools... That's crazy. Glad I got a can of gun cleaner I never threw away 😂
Thankyou
appreciate it
Use tungsten disulfide (Ws2)! Dry powder, slipperiest thing on the planet, sheds carbon, bonds to metal by rubbing it on, doesn't attract dirt, doesn't come off, withstands 100,000 lbs. of force, eliminates wear. I run my guns dry with NO problems or signs of wear. Better than oil (oil attracts dirt) but if you are worried of what I say, Ws2 also blends well with oil and can be used together. I've been using it in my car's engine oil for 12 years and the engine is like brand new (no wear!!). Nasa uses Tungsten disulfide (Ws2) on the Mars rover. Great for guns!
This is interesting. Do you have link for what you buy for vehicle applications?
We clean a lot the same.
Does this take the same parts as the normal shield models? I saw a shield plus in shop but I didn't hop on it due to my ignorance of parts availability.
Thanks for sharing the information with those of us that have never broke down a compact Semi-Auto. I have cleaned Revolvers and long guns but kinda wondered about all the moving parts, springs and etc. After watching your demonstration I realized my concern was unfounded, pretty straight forward it actually appears that S&W has made it less complicated in this model at least. I didn't see you do anything with clip/mag, is that necessary or did I miss something?
The reason for my question is I have heard some complaints regarding the seating of the clip ( shield plus) having issue with clips/Mags feeding ammo. Also, have you you heard or personally had any issues with the clip plate having a space between the grip-frame. If so could you mention that as I noticed my Shield Plus has a small gap. Hearing about the problem of trying to load 13 rounds in gun I loaded 7 just to avoid the possibility of the spring being new and causing pressure when trying to load 13 I loaded 7 and placed the clip and the small crack is there. Thanks for your time and considering your demo was directed at persons unfamiliar I personally feel the extended video is great for familiarizing a person with no experience as folks will learn the "right way" as everyone will find there on shortcuts but at least they were taught properly.
Hello I just bought a Shield Plus just like yours. So just use the CLP but no other form of lubricant anywhere else? Thanks for posting such an informative video!
You can use CLP or you can use a 2 part bore cleaner + lube. It's preference, some will tell you one is better than the other, just go with what you like.
I hsd the original shield sold it just bought the shield plus the plastic they use on the frame looks different like it's a cheaper plastic. I prefer the look of the frame on my original shield.
My gun I bought used and noticed that the spring is spring ( for lack of a better term) and I can’t get it into the slide. I’d like to know if I can do anything to get this spring in
I always wondered why some Shield plus have shiny polymer lowers and others is like a dull matte finish mine has that dull finish while others that I see reviews on TH-cam some have the shiny lowers
Why no mention of moving the (yellow) sear deactivation lever prior to disassembly?
Is the guide rod stock?
Way to much lube, but everyone does things differently. I also use my brushes first, then use the patches. I use Ballistol, no gloves required. Good enough for Hickok45, good enough for me.
I use the ballistol like ol hickok45 as well
Note that you should field strip this without pulling the trigger. After locking the slide back and rotating the takedown lever, reach inside the chamber and push the sear deactivation lever slightly down. Don't force it. No need to pull the trigger.
I noticed that two. Does it harm the weapon to pull the trigger to release the slide???
@@jazzmac03 It doesn't appear to do any harm, to me seems no worse than dry-firing. The lever is the recommended way but I couldn't find any reason to not just pull the trigger except for the possibility of ND - but since you already have the slide locked open it would have ejected anything in the chamber anyway. The only valid reason I see online is that police departments with a magazine safety on their models wanted it so you could disassemble it without a magazine.
@@jazzmac03I hate when people dry fire my firearms I don't know if it harms it or not but I don't like it so push down the lever
Unrelated to cleaning. What holster are you using for that?
You should use a micro fiber rag to wipe away the excess oil.
The gun looks kinda greasy
I noticed you didn't move the sear pin, is that necessary ??
Would gun be damaged if the spring wasn’t put in the dead center as you were describing?
Just might wear the inside of the slide more, but it also might not slide back on the frame correctly.
Keep the Lubricant's off the Plastics as much as possible.
Like dissolves Like in Chemistry.
Hydrocarbons degrade hydrocarbons over time. UV and Sunlight breaks bonds over time on Hydrocarbons as well.
Plastics are Hydrocarbon chains. Don't allow your Firearm to sit cooking in sunlight for hrs.
They actually come with its own cleaning kit now.
Mine didn't
@@darrickcastle1595 you need to go where you bought it and tell them to give you the kit that came with pistol
@@lisamitchell1355 I got it at a pawn shop so idk if that might be why, but I got it brand new with the box and both mags
@@darrickcastle1595 should have had a box with a pistol lock, and two mags, and cleaning kit, new.
@@lisamitchell1355 got the lock as well, no cleaning kit lol
What CLP are you using?
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No need to oil the outside of the slide. It has Armornite anti-corrosion finish.
The out side of the slide still gets gun powder on it. So if you want your clean , yes you do need to do the outside of the slide .
You don't ever want to rely on any coating to completely protect your gun... If you look at any kind of metal under a microscope you will see that there's very sharp hills and valleys in the metal. That coating doesn't bond to the metal like you might think. Just simply holstering your weapon will disturb the coating and cause microscopic portions of the metal to now be exposed, allowing any foreign materials to make contact. It's wise to always hydrate all metal surfaces with your favorite lube and let it sit a bit after cleaning. Not only does it help protect and ensure a nice and long surface life but makes future cleanings WAY easier.
I tend to agree as it's so simple and even if it offers any protection to the finish. The fact that the outer slide is where you pull the slide with, could that be a potential issue for someone who attempts to load chamber having any problems gripping it? I would think your referring to wiping it down occasionally and not making it routine for everytime you handle the gun the way us old-timers did after handling the weapon. Thank goodness for these new coating protection products, know more worrying about "BLUEING".
👍
I follow the instructions to take the gun apart but when I move this slide removal dog forward pull the trigger and try to slide the upper slide forward it won't come off. Any ideas?
You have to either flip the sear deactivation lever down (consult owners manual) - or just pull the trigger (with the slide in it's normal position) before the slide will come off.
Wow, that was cool. Why didn’t you just dip the gun into a vat of oil?
Smith & Wesson advertises that with some sort of technology, you don’t have to pull the trigger, but clearly that’s not the case. Maybe that’s on the newer 2022 models?
If you flip the sear deactivation lever down, you don't have to pull the trigger to get the slide off... but ignoring the sear deactivation lever and simply pulling the trigger works too. I GUESS the sear deactivation lever is just there to avoid a dry fire, but as far as I know that doesn't hurt anything with this gun.
Q-tips are a way better option.
They work pretty good, but you need to use a lot of them and they tend to fall apart easier than patches.
I use Q tips for the slide and tight areas But use the real Q tips there is a difference in quality.
So what’s the brush for. 🤔
Use it to scrub if you need to
First time cleaning my Plus. Manual says sear deactivation lever is yellow(ish), mine is not. Says nothing about pulling the trigger. Anyway, I push it down, move the slide forward, but it stops 1/4 inch forward and will not go farther. Tried pulling the trigger just in case, no help. Anyone have constructive thoughts?
Did you remove the mag? If not, that's probably the hang up.
I had same problem. The slide catch spring just above the takedown lever had slipped out of it's retaining groove and was jamming the slide.
Cough, fart, sneeze.
Who the hell greases the outside that much? That's gonna be a nasty mess after pocket lint, dust, and clothing or skin rubs against it. Yeugh. 🤮
Lmao, no one leaves it that wet when it's time to go back into service.... He's doing exactly what I do after every cleaning and letting whatever lubricant or clp lightly coat all outside surfaces to help hydrate any exposed metal and let it sit for 20-30 minutes to allow it to work down into all the microscopic cracks and crevices in the metal..... Then you simply take a microfiber and pat dry.... If anyone is taking a soaked gun like that and putting it anywhere other than a safe then they are clearly not right in the head...
A little over kill. Some of your technique is useful, but the amount of oil is a little excessive. You may want to let the slide, barrel and guide rod sit a little bit before putting it back together.
Opinions are like Aholes
@@unknowntrucker7010 takes one to know one!
@@unknowntrucker7010 Is it even opinion at this point? that gun is literally glistening.
Nice job……ignore the “professionals”.
Someone’s locked out of their single-wide.
As ive always been told. If its worth doing. Its worth overdoing
I’ll clean my gun every time I’ll go to the firing range no matter how many rounds ,regardless it’s 25 rounds or 200 rounds period.
That's good but not necessary
You have never clean a firearm before, have you?
Am I the only person who looks for cleaning techniques to borrow from videos? I look for different techniques to add to my near OCD cleaning process of my EZ.
Not enough solvent. Use lots of solvent and very little oil.
מותק אתה
Dude, thats a lot of oil.
Your procedure is nothing if not thorough except for the lubrication points. The manual states seven: 4 on the frame (slide rails), 1 on the trigger bar, and 2 on the barrel - on top, just below the hood and at the end where the muzzle locks against the slide. I counted only six in the video. I understand though about concentration on wear points as you said.
Funny. You talk about how "filthy" your Shield is. You must not shoot much!
Too much oil or lubricant is not good
This did not work, slide would not come off. All steps followed.
Talk about gouging, the CLP Cleaning Oil for the same size you show on the Amazon page for $23.34 is now $42.62!!!
I don't know how much kick back you get but I initially was willing to support you going through your link, but will take a pass.
Whoa…yeah don’t pay over $25
@@GearKnowHow , I was surprised for sure when I saw they doubled the price on the Amazon page you link to. I would have a talk with them if you have a relationship. Everyone understands inflation but gouging like this could get them a reaction they won't like! I use a couple other links you posted.
The guy is sloppy oil is excessive over kill
Way too much lubrication. Put it on and wipe it off.
Way way way too much oil
That’s what she said 😂
Way too much CLP!
Why are you wearing gloves ?
Protect your hands from the cleaner and the leftover lead residue.
Big time over kill !! You need to go back and learn how to clean a gun properly!!
You have no idea what you are talking about
I get a safety check laugh when it’s so obvious I mean all jokes aside if you are not capable of clearing a firearm safely and know I’d say carry a Swiss Army knife please.
You are using way too much oil. I hope no one is watching this video and think this is how it's done. WAY too much oil/clp, whatever you wanna call it.
Dude no offense but your doing it all wrong.
p͓̽r͓̽o͓̽m͓̽o͓̽s͓̽m͓̽
You don’t have to do all of these nonsense when cleaning the barrel
Great input