Thanks for taking the time to show others how to do this. If you don’t mind a bit of constructive criticism, I did notice one big no no. You should only EVER sharpen the top side of the cutting portion of the blade. Just like it came from the factory. I will occasionally hit the bottom, ONLY to remove the raised part of a deep gouge, but never to sharpen. The balancer does indeed come in handy to keep the blades balanced, and reduce deck vibrations, increasing the life of the deck and gearbox.
Excellent feedback I appreciate it. I figured I was probably never sharpening them exactly correctly, but better than the butter knife that came off. I’ll take your advice on the next sharpening. Thanks for watching.
If you ever change your coolant or do any other maintenance I'd love to see those videos too! Trying to figure it all out on my own! Thank you for your videos. :)
I’ve done both a coolant and the trans but it’s been several years, I plan to do them again this fall/winter and I will record the process, thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for your kind words you have a gem of a tractor that will last you a lifetime, hopefully you have the metal cam gear most post 2000 models do. If not it would be worth addressing. Thanks for watching
Found this!!! Steel camshafts were used in production models starting in February 1998 in FD620 engines. FD620D-CS01 - Beginning serial 150198 - Model 445
I was just curious if you know what the No-load rpm of your engine is with the 54” deck running? I have the same setup and my no-load rpm is right around 3000 rpm. I’m thinking it’s too low? Thanks and great vid!
Hi Mark. I will keep that in mind for a future video when I have the deck off. All I have ever been told is remove the deck belt, grab the deck spindle pulley firmly and see if you have any side to side play. If everything is firm and does not wobble you are good to go. If loose, you likely need a bearing replaced. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I've been struggling to find a good underside coating for my deck to prevent grass buildup and prevent rust. So far POR15 has been the best but if you have any other suggestions I'm all ears. Here in the PNW we have no choice but to cut damp grass.
Thanks for the feedback. What I usually do is once I clean my deck I don't even necessarily repaint it anymore I coat it with used oil, it may have a little stickiness to it but you're going to be wet anyway but this way most of the rust will be prevented because the water is not going to mix with the oil.
It can be tricky, usually trickier to get on though. DO try it from the rear of the mower, less awkard. You could always see if you can get some silicone or penetrating lube in there, that may help. Thanks for watching.
That has been requested and I will do that in the future don't need a belt at the moment, the best advice I can give you is to draw a diagram before you get started and it should be simple for you it gets confusing when the belt is not on and you're trying to understand the pattern, pushing in on the idler pulley will give you the flexibility you need to add slack.
Hey Richard thanks for watching, my dad actually gave those to me a long time ago he picked them up at an auction, they sure are nice they fold up flat and are heavy duty
First of all, you gave the spindle bearings 4 shots of grease. You are supposed to fill the housing with grease until it starts coming out the weep hole on the side. You then grease the ujoints until you see grease. Makes no sense Second, the blades have a belville washer on them under the bolt. These are supposed to be torqued to a spec to allow for slippage if you hit something. You have tightened them so much the housing will break if you hit something. JD calls for 25lbs. You must have had 150.
Thanks for taking the time to show others how to do this. If you don’t mind a bit of constructive criticism, I did notice one big no no. You should only EVER sharpen the top side of the cutting portion of the blade. Just like it came from the factory. I will occasionally hit the bottom, ONLY to remove the raised part of a deep gouge, but never to sharpen. The balancer does indeed come in handy to keep the blades balanced, and reduce deck vibrations, increasing the life of the deck and gearbox.
Excellent feedback I appreciate it. I figured I was probably never sharpening them exactly correctly, but better than the butter knife that came off. I’ll take your advice on the next sharpening. Thanks for watching.
Great! Just what I needed to know. Would really like to see demonstration on installing belt and making adjustments
Thanks for watching. Your in luck. John Deere 445 Deck Belt Replacement Stens 54 Lawn
th-cam.com/video/EWaAgt1ZY8k/w-d-xo.html
If you ever change your coolant or do any other maintenance I'd love to see those videos too! Trying to figure it all out on my own! Thank you for your videos. :)
I’ve done both a coolant and the trans but it’s been several years, I plan to do them again this fall/winter and I will record the process, thank you for your feedback.
@@TNYankee2020 that would be awesome! I’m very new to all of this and trying to keep my 23 year old 445 alive lol.
Thanks for your videos, they have been a great help to me. I inherited a 445 John Deere with 545 hrs on it and your information is much appreciated!
Thanks for your kind words you have a gem of a tractor that will last you a lifetime, hopefully you have the metal cam gear most post 2000 models do. If not it would be worth addressing. Thanks for watching
I have a 1999 445, how do I determine if I have a metal cam? Thanks, willydallynobull
Found this!!! Steel camshafts were used in production models starting in February 1998 in FD620 engines.
FD620D-CS01 - Beginning serial 150198 - Model 445
These are great machines I have one with 1900 hours on it with the original motor.
Thanks for watching
them are some tuff horses
They are! $5 yard sale sawhorses. Thanks for watching.
I was just curious if you know what the No-load rpm of your engine is with the 54” deck running? I have the same setup and my no-load rpm is right around 3000 rpm. I’m thinking it’s too low? Thanks and great vid!
Thanks for watching and the feedback, and sorry I don’t have that information.
The w in 85w140 standa for winter. Alot of people get that wrong.
Could you make a post to help determine if the bearings are bad? Thanks!!
Hi Mark. I will keep that in mind for a future video when I have the deck off. All I have ever been told is remove the deck belt, grab the deck spindle pulley firmly and see if you have any side to side play. If everything is firm and does not wobble you are good to go. If loose, you likely need a bearing replaced. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I've been struggling to find a good underside coating for my deck to prevent grass buildup and prevent rust. So far POR15 has been the best but if you have any other suggestions I'm all ears. Here in the PNW we have no choice but to cut damp grass.
Thanks for the feedback. What I usually do is once I clean my deck I don't even necessarily repaint it anymore I coat it with used oil, it may have a little stickiness to it but you're going to be wet anyway but this way most of the rust will be prevented because the water is not going to mix with the oil.
You just helped me a ton. Thanks!
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching
I am having trouble getting the rear coupler of the PTO stub shaft off, its locked on tight. Anybody got any tips?
It can be tricky, usually trickier to get on though. DO try it from the rear of the mower, less awkard. You could always see if you can get some silicone or penetrating lube in there, that may help. Thanks for watching.
@@TNYankee2020 thanks for the reply. I bought this machine used, and it's never budged.
Were the wife👰♀️ or kids 🧒 at help lift that mower on saw 🪚🐎horses/ great view 👀👌
😁😜
Enjoyed your video, on deck maintenance. Could you show how to put a belt on the 445 mower deck or refer me to another source? Thanks a lot.
That has been requested and I will do that in the future don't need a belt at the moment, the best advice I can give you is to draw a diagram before you get started and it should be simple for you it gets confusing when the belt is not on and you're trying to understand the pattern, pushing in on the idler pulley will give you the flexibility you need to add slack.
Problem is my belt broke and ran off the deck
Where did you get the nice stands?
Hey Richard thanks for watching, my dad actually gave those to me a long time ago he picked them up at an auction, they sure are nice they fold up flat and are heavy duty
First of all, you gave the spindle bearings 4 shots of grease. You are supposed to fill the housing with grease until it starts coming out the weep hole on the side. You then grease the ujoints until you see grease. Makes no sense Second, the blades have a belville washer on them under the bolt. These are supposed to be torqued to a spec to allow for slippage if you hit something. You have tightened them so much the housing will break if you hit something. JD calls for 25lbs. You must have had 150.
Good advice. Thanks.