I absolutely enjoy your presentation style. You explain the topic so well and in this case take the trouble to color the threads to show it more clearly. Great topic and video.
Several years ago, a friend showed me some double tip cutters for cutting both threads of a double start at once. They are the only ones I've ever come across. He also had a set of double taps. You explain this much more clearly than he did. Thank You!
I can't wrap my mind around the two cutter insert tool. Hate to say this, but it's not possible unless the cutters are opposed and maybe cam-adjustable for depth of cut. What's your take on it, Lyle? Sounds like it would be a real beast to create.
Mr Pete, Thank you very much for making this video. After watching your video I was able to repair a drill operated three leg cylinder honing tool. It had a two multi start 14 TPI screw but it was missing the adjusting nut. With your detailed instruction I was able to make the nut, first try, You did an amazing job explaining what is a multi start thread and how to make them. Thank You
I always find something educational and interesting on this site. So more enjoyable than an old TV rerun; just like an empty-calorie. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
I like your method of obtaining the second start. Much easier than the method that I was taught. This involved disengaging the change wheels and turning the driver gear through an angle equal to the number of starts. When I was serving my apprenticeship [1950 to 54] I had a regular job involving two start square threads for locomotive hand brakes. Because the pitch was an odd number I was able to cut each lead alternately by engaging at 1 and 2 on a 8 point chasing dial similar to yours.
Great lesson! I've seen a lot of those threads on industrial equipment but I couldn't call them by their name. It is possible I'll never cut one of those but I do like the video. Congratulations Mr. Pete
I can cut two start treads all day long. My lathe has a drive gear in the back that is 4O tooth and it is a 1:1 ratio with the gear in the main gearbox that disengages to change feed direction. By doing this correctly and carefully I can disengage my spindle speed gear box and and the feed direction lever and rotate the spindle 180 degrees. The chuck is marked 180 degrees off from one side to the other with an index mark on the upper gear box. The only reason I disengage the speed gears is to make it easy to turn. You can change spindle speeds all day long while cutting threads with no effect on the rest of the timing. Thanks again for the videos Lyle .
Thanks for the refresher course. Last time for this, had to be early 1960s. Although we never get a call for this, we always used 4jaw between centers, that eliminates the math. happy holidays sam
I just recently subscribed to your channel. Thank you so much for making these videos. You are such a great teacher and full of knowledge. You make learning so easy and fun! I am slowly working my way through your videos. Thank you thank you thank you!
Always learning stuff! Keep up the good work! Quick question to all, how would the second start be located if the compound was set at the regular 29' for thread cutting? The apron carriage wheel is rather coarse to locate the 0.083" difference for the second start. Cheers,
Great stuff! I watch all off your videos. We had to make a valve stem back at Maine Maritime Academy in machine tool #2 class. It was a double lead acme thread. I diffenitly screwed my project up the first time when I started the second set of threads.
Very good video. I always learn something when I watch your videos. I am sorry to hear about Ray Price. He is very sick with cancer. I know that you are a fan. Later
Where in Machinery's Handbook did you find the information on thread depth for your threads? I have the 26th edition, couldn't find it anywhere, or any mention of multiple starts threads.
I didn't find the explanation at 12:45 too clear for those just learning. I have referenced the machinery's hand book 23 my self and a 5/8-12 thread has a reference minor diameter of max .5242 . Given that the major diameter 5/8 then .625-.5242 give us the delta of the two diameter =.1008 , if your lathe crosse slide dial reads in diameter then that is what you feed in. If your crosse slide reads in radius or your using an indicator then you must divide by two. A multipel start thread has the same profile as a signal start thread of the same pitch, so all of the diameters; Major, Minor, Pitch and root are equivalent.
Have you ever heard of a 1/4 pitch, 1/2 lead acme thread? If so can you explain. I think the 1/4 pitch is 4 threads per inch but not sure about the 1/2 lead. Thanks
Do you mean the lead or setting the gearbox? I think 12tpi ./.4 = 3tpi. So if a SBend, you have to change the feed gear to get down to 3 tpi. If I remember 6TPI is the lowest without changing this gear. I may stand to be corrected, its been yrs......
I've always wanted to try this on a manual lathe, just never had the need. If I did, I was going to do it exactly as you have, with the compound set at 90. I can see how you could also set it at 29. It's funny that you mentioned the odd threads on that valve because there is a production job in our shop making just that, left hand acme threads with double lead. It is a job that runs continuously year round so they actually had custom go/no go hardened steel ring gages made for it. I don't even want to know what they cost.
Many years ago i got my craftsman atlas 6” lathe without a chuck (I might be backwards ) I big difference in a craftsman to a atlas is the spindle threads craftsman is a 1”10 where the atlas is a 1”8 Many 1”8 backing plates avail i had to make my 1”10 Then one day at my friends who got his father in-laws craftsman atlas i found the chuck had a double thread cut on it Someone took a 1”8 backing plate and cut a 1”10 over it Although i didnt get to use it wondering your thoughts about it Just recently let my craftsman 6” go for a South Bend 9” so that dilemma is over
This is a great video, with superb instruction along with it! It would be a good project for anyone if a mistake didn't matter... Thank you for sharing! :o] O,
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I absolutely enjoy your presentation style. You explain the topic so well and in this case take the trouble to color the threads to show it more clearly. Great topic and video.
Thanks
Several years ago, a friend showed me some double tip cutters for cutting both threads of a double start at once. They are the only ones I've ever come across. He also had a set of double taps. You explain this much more clearly than he did. Thank You!
+badazrod Thanks for watching
I can't wrap my mind around the two cutter insert tool. Hate to say this, but it's not possible unless the cutters are opposed and maybe cam-adjustable for depth of cut. What's your take on it, Lyle? Sounds like it would be a real beast to create.
Mr Pete, Thank you very much for making this video. After watching your video I was able to repair a drill operated three leg cylinder honing tool. It had a two multi start 14 TPI screw but it was missing the adjusting nut. With your detailed instruction I was able to make the nut, first try, You did an amazing job explaining what is a multi start thread and how to make them. Thank You
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Another good one. Thanks Mr. Pete!
Thanks so much for these 2 vids Pete 👍
👍
I always find something educational and interesting on this site. So more enjoyable than an old TV rerun; just like an empty-calorie. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
I had no idea. You are such a great teacher.
I like your method of obtaining the second start. Much easier than the method that I was taught. This involved disengaging the change wheels and turning the driver gear through an angle equal to the number of starts. When I was serving my apprenticeship [1950 to 54] I had a regular job involving two start square threads for locomotive hand brakes. Because the pitch was an odd number I was able to cut each lead alternately by engaging at 1 and 2 on a 8 point chasing dial similar to yours.
Great video, best explanation of multistart threads I've seen. Cannot locate the next video 129.
Great lesson! I've seen a lot of those threads on industrial equipment but I couldn't call them by their name. It is possible I'll never cut one of those but I do like the video. Congratulations Mr. Pete
High Quality video...very informative, very thoughtful and clear teaching, Thankyou Mr. Pete
ken gundersen Thanks for watching
I had never. Thought about this, thanks for bringing it to my attention.
I can cut two start treads all day long.
My lathe has a drive gear in the back that is 4O tooth and it is a 1:1 ratio with the gear in the main gearbox that disengages to change feed direction.
By doing this correctly and carefully I can disengage my spindle speed gear box and and the feed direction lever and rotate the spindle 180 degrees.
The chuck is marked 180 degrees off from one side to the other with an index mark on the upper gear box.
The only reason I disengage the speed gears is to make it easy to turn.
You can change spindle speeds all day long while cutting threads with no effect on the rest of the timing.
Thanks again for the videos Lyle
.
Brillant explination, thankyou!
Thanks for the refresher course. Last time for this, had to be early 1960s.
Although we never get a call for this, we always used 4jaw between centers, that
eliminates the math. happy holidays
sam
I just recently subscribed to your channel. Thank you so much for making these videos. You are such a great teacher and full of knowledge. You make learning so easy and fun! I am slowly working my way through your videos. Thank you thank you thank you!
+Ken Sanders Thanks for watching--I have over 600 videos
Always learning stuff! Keep up the good work!
Quick question to all, how would the second start be located if the compound was set at the regular 29' for thread cutting? The apron carriage wheel is rather coarse to locate the 0.083" difference for the second start. Cheers,
Very interesting video. Looking forward to part 2...
I learn it and went on to do one it came out great thanks a lot.
This was really well explained thank you.
Thanks
Great stuff! I watch all off your videos. We had to make a valve stem back at Maine Maritime Academy in machine tool #2 class. It was a double lead acme thread. I diffenitly screwed my project up the first time when I started the second set of threads.
I enjoy all your vids. Thanks
Awesome work....Thanks
Very good video. I always learn something when I watch your videos. I am sorry to hear about Ray Price. He is very sick with cancer. I know that you are a fan.
Later
Thank you Mr. Pete!
Are different start threads compatible? In other words, can I joint a single thread screw with a 2, 3 or any different than 1 start thread nut?
The threads on fountain pen caps are typically 3 or 4 very fine threads.
Very interesting/educational.....thank you!
Where in Machinery's Handbook did you find the information on thread depth for your threads? I have the 26th edition, couldn't find it anywhere, or any mention of multiple starts threads.
I didn't find the explanation at 12:45 too clear for those just learning. I have referenced the machinery's hand book 23 my self and a 5/8-12 thread has a reference minor diameter of max .5242 . Given that the major diameter 5/8 then .625-.5242 give us the delta of the two diameter =.1008 , if your lathe crosse slide dial reads in diameter then that is what you feed in. If your crosse slide reads in radius or your using an indicator then you must divide by two.
A multipel start thread has the same profile as a signal start thread of the same pitch, so all of the diameters; Major, Minor, Pitch and root are equivalent.
Thanks. Muchas gracias por su trabajo.
Thanks
Thanks for this video sir
,,, great lesson today,,,
Does the nut have to be a double thread nut to fit a double thread screw?
Yes
@@mrpete222 Thanks.
Have you ever heard of a 1/4 pitch, 1/2 lead acme thread? If so can you explain. I think the 1/4 pitch is 4 threads per inch but not sure about the 1/2 lead. Thanks
Have not
Can you explain why the depth is one half of a single thread? The rest of this makes sense, but I cannot understand tat detail
Awesome
Mr. Pete,
If it was a 4 start thread, would the depth be 1/4 of the single thread depth?
Do you mean the lead or setting the gearbox? I think 12tpi ./.4 = 3tpi. So if
a SBend, you have to change the feed gear to get down to 3 tpi. If I remember
6TPI is the lowest without changing this gear. I may stand to be corrected,
its been yrs......
you show depth at .108 how do you determine that? i tried a math formula and didnt come near your answer... i'm wondering what i did wrong
Duel lead is another name. I use to cut those and quad lead tapered threads. Long time ago.
+Burnningsoul Thanks for watching
If i cut M20 x 2 x 2 or M20 x 2 x 3
I don't know DEEP CUT?
Can you help me?
I've always wanted to try this on a manual lathe, just never had the need. If I did, I was going to do it exactly as you have, with the compound set at 90. I can see how you could also set it at 29. It's funny that you mentioned the odd threads on that valve because there is a production job in our shop making just that, left hand acme threads with double lead. It is a job that runs continuously year round so they actually had custom go/no go hardened steel ring gages made for it. I don't even want to know what they cost.
Those go/no go gages are serious territory. The acme tandem taps command deep pockets also.
What is the math for using the cross slide at 90 degrees with a 4 start thread?
superb
I'm new to machining, but if you want a thread to travel longer per rotation, can't you just use a coarser thread?
+Rexus King yes-but that is very limiting compared to multi thread
Can you please explain the downside of that? or point out a direction for further research, I can't find articles about this matter...
+Rexus King Watch this video. Search wikopedia too.
Yeah after further research I got what I want, thanks for making this video
my
industrial arts teacher never showed/talked about multiple threads! I feel cheated!
Many years ago i got my craftsman atlas 6” lathe without a chuck
(I might be backwards ) I big difference in a craftsman to a atlas is the spindle threads craftsman is a 1”10 where the atlas is a 1”8
Many 1”8 backing plates avail i had to make my 1”10
Then one day at my friends who got his father in-laws craftsman atlas i found the chuck had a double thread cut on it
Someone took a 1”8 backing plate and cut a 1”10 over it
Although i didnt get to use it wondering your thoughts about it
Just recently let my craftsman 6” go for a
South Bend 9” so that dilemma is over
I didn't know they made them with different threads. I would think that double thread would be very weak
Great
What means "tubalcain"?
It's from Genesis: "And Zillah, she also bore Tubalcain, an instructor of every artificer in brass and iron"
lots of double lead fasteners on f111s and f 16s
This is a great video, with superb instruction along with it! It would be a good project for anyone if a mistake didn't matter... Thank you for sharing! :o]
O,
Hi does anyone know how to contact mrpete222?