Richard Raffan turns a bowl with a spindle gouge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I use a ½-in / 13mm spindle gouge to turn a 20cm / 8-in diameter bowl. For in-depth explanations of the tools and techniques you need to refer to my books and videos. www.richardraf....
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You are one of the very few who actually teaches. Most turners or TH-cam just entertain. Thanks so much for sharing.
Can't help myself! I learnt the hard way by trial and error. Now I hope to save people some of the trauma.
thanks for the video Richard. Very necessary today, especially for US turners who are very lost with the supposed game-changers that some marketing department creates. It's sad for me to enter the forums like FB because some very active members are in a war of denying all the knowledge of classical turning. Now they want everything to be reduced to making bowls and using bowl gouges for everything, even to make finials or balusters between centers!! That's why your authority is a good answer for them, to at least think for themselves and try. Regards
Thank You Mr. Raffan fpr all these videaos.
I'm a beginner in woodturning, so i can learn very much from your work.
Greetings from Germany
One thing I have learnt since starting on this fascinating subject, one has to keep coming back to the tututorials made by the experts who REALLY know what they are doing. I have found these by Richard and a few others, to be the best, and I use them as a reference if I am unsure of something. I have seen so many bad techniques that I now know what to avoid watching. These close-up shots are among the best I have seen, so importantso as to not miss the finer points. Greetings from Tasmania.
I've learned so much just from watching you show and explain your catches. And on particularly frustrating days, it's heartening to know that even great woodturners still make a mistake now and then.
I had to get a little vacuum so I could remove the dust from my laptop since I had it open while watching your videos and making my first bowl by myself. Thank you so much for these videos. I've shared them with my shop class students as well!
Great teaching video. I have learned a ton from your channel. I need to learn more about your scraper techniques, because I’m blown away at how quickly and cleanly you were able to finish the interior of this bowl. My eyes bugged out.
Amazing teaching and turning good sir!
And cheers, from smoky California USA.
A brilliant tutorial with no hint of condescension. Thank you for sharing 🌞
I like the close ups of the tool meeting the wood. Very educational. Making the occasional blunder is helpful too knowing how it happens and how to resolve
Thank you for the many years and videos of knowledge
It's many years since I did any wood turning, but I remember my lessons from you at Parnham in 1984 - 'keep the bevel rubbing' stayed with me!
Nicely done Richard.
Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos Richard. Great to have informative visual lessons on how to approach and use the tools properly.
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Very cool video Richard, I feel better now when I grab my Crown 3/8 spindle gouge to do clean up when I can't get the final finish I want from my bowl gouge. Especially on spalted maple!
Another brilliant tutorial! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
I am rethinking the approach and the tools I use to turn bowls.
Thank you for this video lesson!
Usiung these techniques I've turned thousands of bowls that made me a good living for 50 years... so I can recommend them.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Just 50! 🤷♂️ nice work Sir.
I made a comment on one of your videos about using a spindle gouge on a bowl - how I had been taught not to use it - ever. So glad I came across your youtube channel - where experience overcomes dogma! I've been binge watching all of your videos - truly amazing how simple you make it appear. Biggest lesson I've learnt is let the wood come to the tool and don't try to force the tool to do what you want. Thanks.
I'm delighted to have gathered another convert.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I find I have a lot less lathe vibration with my spindle gouge. It's pretty hefty thankfully and I can turn thinner bowls
Your carelessness reassures me! You teach woodturnung, not perfection. Thank you.
Those things happen so might as well leave them in so people see how to recover.
Thank you for showing us that a spindle gouge can be used for bowls. It is all about technique and tou sir have the best.
Thanks for making so many videos! They have been very informative.
The catch around 17:40 reminds me of myself. Most of my catches now are due to carelessness when I’m withdrawing a tool or just moving it idly in between cuts.
I love the scraper as well for the final shape, my problem with it is only that it needs sharpening more often than my bowl gouge. I am so grateful you showed that shear cut back up the outside with the right side cutting, now I’m ready for the 180-240 and done, ok maybe some oil and wax!
Marvelous, Mr Raffan. Just yesterday I was turning lids for a pair of urns, which are essentially little upside down bowls (cross grain). Nothing but my ½" spindle gouge and it did an excellent job. Thank you for sharing.
I got a really nice bowl gouge, this video makes me get a nice spindle gouge, the only one I got is a detail one from a beginner's set.
The very shallow flute on a detail gouge makes it less effecient moveing lots of material, but with a long bevel it should be an excellent detailing too for cutting feet and beads on the sideof a bowl.
I think it works just fine after several years of turning thousands of bowls. Thanks for showing us how easy it can be with a little practice and how we should keep our attention on what we’re doing 😉🙄 Again thanks for another great how’s it done video. Cheers, Tom
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skill. Your tutorial descriptions of tool orientation and placement are greatly appreciated. I've always marveled at your ability.
Another excellent video with many teaching opportunities!!
Kudos to the camera man for showing the rotation of the tool as you feed the gouge into the wood!!
So many do not show that which creates problems.
Thank you both!!
The cameraman is me on this occasion.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Keep them coming. I have lost footage many times or had a poor view of the turning and a good view of my shoulder!
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Many thanks for the support, Mike. I'm just editing out a lot of not very clear views of my scalp from otherwise good footage.
Thank You Richard. I recently had to buy a new Gouge after a terrible attempt at re-sharpening my old one - so now im excited to test what ive learnt from your videos.
Probably a silly question, or request really..
Can you do a short series of videos on the best ways you have found to do High Production Turning?
My biggest issue is trying to find the most productive ways to turn out a high quality product, while saving time. I figured you would be one of the worlds best at teaching us how to do that.
That's a very broad topic as much depends on what you're turning. The bottom line is always that speed and effeciency come through repetition, and effeciency comes from working out easier ways of doing things and then knowing when you've done enough, particularly when it comes to sanding and finishing. I'll add it to my list. You can also email me via my website www.richardraffan.com.au/contact/ with some specifics and I'll see if I cna help.
Now that was a great teaching video. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, yet again. I can see how a lot of the techniques can also apply to Bowl Gouges, but also where the Spindle Gouge can do things Bowl Gouges can't (depending on edge shape of the tool of course).
The spindle gouges are much better at getting into corners.
Great demo Richard.
Great video and use of spindle gouge. Thank you!
well done mate i watch you all the time
I listen to folks say they have reground to all neg rake this and 40/40 that, and kind of chuckle wondering if ground tool steel adds to heavy metal pollution lol.. amazing what can be done with tools that have been around for years.. I been watch you stuff for years and am a big fan, thanks for sharing another video. PS I am nursing a 1/2 Sorby spindle gouge even shorter than yours.
When I started turning a few years ago, I spent an ungodly amount of time regrinding tools to be at a perfect 40/40 lol.
My bowl gouge kinda accidentally became asymmetrical about a year ago when I stopped worrying about perfect angles. It wasn't a big deal for me, because I usually only use one wing anyway. Now that I've seen Richard doing it, I'm gonna start using that other wing a bit more
Something to try today🤗 great bowl sir
Helpful, as always. Thank you.
Thanks Richard. Great video again
Thanks for sharing and thanks for the time and effort
Another fine turning lesson. thanks
Some thoughts, First I must confess I am not a jig sharpener guy.. chisel does not like a. Stone at all, it sharpens quite well with cbn which works fine for me. Took a bit to get the grind I like I was not used to the extra meat on the bottom, kept loosing the scare on the nose.. after 20 minutes I got it tuned for me and my style.. seems ok.. yes you are correct no clogs..
Excellent tutorial, Richard!
Although I’ve never done it (simply because I’m more comfortable with a 40/40 bowl gouge), I’ve always thought that as long as one takes grain orientation into consideration, a bowl could easily be turned with a spindle gouge. Albeit, a bit less forgiving process than with a bowl gouge.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and insight!
- Seth
I think the reason we see so many admonitions against using a spindle gouge for cross grain turning is that many spindle gouges have narrow, weak tangs. Richard's spindle gouges are full diameter end to end.
There are several reasons I use a shallow gouge on a bowl profile: it's less expensive than a D/F gouge, the shavings get away faster (green timber can jam in a deep flute), D/F aren't good at getting into corners, you don't need the hefy of a D/F gouge when cutting close to thr rest. But this was mostly made because so many people say you should never user a spindle gouge on bowls. They mean spindle roughing gouges, but the wrong message gets out.
@@OregonOldTimerWOODTURNING It's half-round spindle roughing gouges that shoudln't be used.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Well said, and thank you!
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I'm definitely a champion of professing not using a Spindle Roughing Gouge on cross-grain. I even included a message about not doing it at the start of my last few videos. Always a cringe-worthy moment witnessing someone doing it.
Thanks
thank you sir!
This is super, thank you. I have a 1/2” spindle gouge but it doesn’t seem as thick as this one? Perhaps it’s the zoomed in angle. Is this 13mm stock?
This is a standard Henry Taylor spindle gouge 12.5mm diameter.
Outstanding video. I will try my spindle gouge next time I turn a bowl.
Question: what degree is your bevel on your spindle gouge? Thanks again!!
Most of my tools start out with a bevel of 45°, including the ½-in spindle gouges. The ⅜-in spindle gouges are nearer 35° for easier detailing in corners.
Love your videos Richard, would you mind mentioning which brand spindle gouge you use and/or recommend? I'm asking because it looks like you're spindle gouge flutes are wider than other common gouges I've seen. Thank you!
Most of my gouges are Henry Taylor and part of the Raffan Signature range. This one might be a Sorby. It's an ancient gouge and the name has worn away.
Now I'm a bit confused. Does this mean I should sell off my bowl gouges?
Certainly not. This video was to prove you can use a spindle gouge to turn a bowl. So many people say you shouldn't or can't. The strength of a D/F bowl gouge is preferable when hollowing.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning , you just saved me a whole bunch a money. Thanks
@@robertcornelius3514 I wasn't sure if you were being frivolous.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning , don't worry. I have the same kind of sense of humor that you also have.
"Half inch" refers to the width of the flute, note the diameter of the bar stock from which the gouge was cut, correct?
Honestly, that all depends on where you’re from, or where you purchase the gouge from. A US gouge is typically sized by the bar stock, whereas in the UK, gouge size is determined by the flute.
The exact size doesn't matter here: it's the principle. When I measured my gouges for my Essential Tools video (around 1:22) none of the measurements matched how the tools were sold.
Wonderful tutorial, Richard! Wondering if any advantage using an asymmetric grind on the spindle gouge? Would the steeper right wing allow for a bit more upright attitude on the outside, wider shaving on the inside and/or tighter path on inside?
Same rules apply as for the deep fluted asymmetric gouge. A steeper right wing and I'd have been into the bottom comfortably, but I didn't want to reshape a spindle gouge just for this video.
Seems like another plus for asymmetric:)
@@tricolorturners Absolutely. Maybe you should start marketing the jig....
You might have a good idea there, Richard.
Have seen others use a “bottom” gouge - curious why you scrape ? Do you feel gives same (or better) finish cut ? Been debating whether to get a dedicated bottom gouge or not…
I find scraping more accurate. All you need on any gouge that can shear cut across the bottom of a bowl is a steeper bevel. I currently don't have a spindle gouge with a steep right wing, but in my asymmetric bowl gouge video you'll see I do on my deep-fluted bowl gouges which are effectively two tools in one.
Most turners discourage using a spindle gouge on a bowl.
It is deep-fluted spindle roughing gouges that should never be used for facework. Before bowl turning became popular in the early 1980s, spindle roughing gouges were marketed simply as roughing gouges. Many novice turners, assumed a roughing gouge could be used to rough bowls, broke roughing gouges on bowls not realizing they weren't using the right gouge for the job. The myth that spindle gouges should never be used on bowls emerged from there. Unfortunately many online gurus perpetuate this myth.
Shallow gouges like ½-in spindle gouges are fine cutting close to the rest and have always been my preferred tools for roughing bowl profiles because shavings are less likely to jam in the flute as they can with some d/f bowl gouges. Whereas the stronger deep-fluted bowl gouges are better when cutting further from the rest. Spindle gouges used exclusively for bowl turning need a steeper bevel than one used exclusively for turning spindles. You might have noticed the difference beween my ½-in and ⅜-in spindle gouges, the sdmaller with a much longer bevel for detailing.
Mr RAFFAN, here’s kinda a stupid question:
Exactly what is meant by an “ unsupported cut”?
It seems so ambiguous to me!
Is it where the CONTACT AREA on the rest is slightly tilted- affording a space between the metal of the tool and the rest- or does it refer to NOT having any part of a bevel in contact with the wood, which would be just the cutting edge of a tool.
Hmmmm.
I’ve always been dumb about this.
Thank you!
You can use a deep-fluted bowl gouge flute up because the steep side bevel is against the wood and consequently supporting the tool. You'll see this in my asymmetric grind and other bowl videos. If you try to cut using the wing of any spindle or any shallow gouge with the flute up there is space beneath the point of contact so the tool will catch because there is no bevel contact. Try doing it by hand (with the lathe off) and you can see it in slow motion. There's never a stupid question: I didn't explain it right in the first place, at least for the person who asked the question.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning :Thanks!
I am having FITS trying to replicate your enclosed bowl that you did a video on. I have lots of trouble trying to get in to cut right below the opening to shape the upper side; it ALWAYS wants to skate back or catch! Grrr!
I feel very comfortable doing regular bowls, but this enclosed form is vexing me.
Too bad we can’t all have a Richard RAFFAN at our elbow as we work to learn!
Could it be my “ grind shape/ angle” that I’ve gotten so used to? The “ 55/55 “ grind. Could that be making it so darn hard and catchy ?
@@burnleyize Try the entry cut with the flute pointing towards centre and slightly down. And is the flute aligned in the direction you're trying to cut. A longer bevel on the nose should help. I'll be doing a video on using a gouge through a smaller opening which might explain it better.
@@burnleyize A single 45° bevel on the nose should help.
Why does your 3/8 gouge have such a long bevel? It seems quite a bit longer than a fingernail grind.
The long bevel gives me a better angle as I start a cut. It also gets into narrower grooves when turning beads on bowls as you see in my Turning Beadss on a Bowl and Olivewood Bowl videos.
Thanks for generously sharing knowledge.
Richard, I love your videos but sometimes I can't help feeling that some of the many many complete idiots out there will try to emulate your techniques but haven't paid enough attention and will end up with tools sticking in their brains.
Очень доходчиво! Я был бы признателен, если добавили субтитры на русском языке. Заранее благодарен.
У меня нет возможности перевести то, что я говорю, на русский язык. Мои извинения. (Google translate)
Richard, maybe I missed something, but did you regrind that gouge beyond the shape of a spindle gouge? I have a 1929 craftsman lathe and about a dozen lathe tools of different shapes and sizes, however no bowl gouge.
Just found that I can order faceplates and chucks for it, but I'm trying to keep from breaking the bank. 30 years ago I bought the lathe at a yard sale for 20 dollars. I would really like to turn bowls, but I dont want to spend 50 plus just for a gouge.
You can grind most gouges for a particular use, so if you want to use a spindle/shallow gouge for bowls you'd need a steep bevel of around 45° rather than something nearer 30° on a dedicated spindle gouge. I use an asymmetric grind on most of my gouges which become almost two tools in one. th-cam.com/video/jg0i27WuPXQ/w-d-xo.html Spindle gouges are strong enough for hollowing up to 75mm/3-in, but any deeper you need the stronger deep-fluted gouges which will likely cost at least US$90. Or you can use traditional scrapers.