ZX10 Double Bubble and Corsa Comparison
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Comparison of the Zero Gravity Dark Smoke Double Bubble Windscreen vs Zero Gravity Clear Corsa.
I'll have to update the comments on how I like riding with the Corsa vs the Double Bubble after I get some miles on the Corsa.
Which one do you guys like better?
Link to Zero Gravity webiste:
www.zerogravity...
Awesome video and comparison.. I actually did the same thing on my zx14 and my gsxr1000.. It honestly depends on the bike itself and it's frontal design.. like on my hayabusa the double bubble vs corsa doesent matter much because the nose of the bike and the overall wind protection is great in a full tuck with either screen.. on a 1000 is where you really see the difference.. I gained over 1mph switching from the double bubble to the corsa in 9/10ths of a mile on my Gixxer 1000.. you'll notice also the corsa comes back further and is closer to the riders helmet leaving less room for air to get in between the windscreen and rider.. and a great point u made about the shoulder protection, that is the main benefit of the corsa.. if u put both of them back to back against eachother there's a huge difference in shoulder coverage where the double bubble is low in the corners right before the rise of the bubble section thats where the corsas more rounded and uniform shape shines and routes the wind around the rider way better. I noticed in a full tuck u can get as low as you want and have decent head coverage but u can never escape the shoulder wind as good with the double bubble.. also looking at the two from the front the double bubble has more flat surfaces which im sure create some drag vs the corsa that's completely rounded and probably causes less turbulent air when wind hits the front. On that zx10 you'll definitely gain mph in the 1.5mile with the corsa, you might as well go GPS and mark out a 1.5 or even 1 mile distance and do a few runs with each screen back to back and upload a vid of the results.... good choice and observation.. and good luck..
Thank you and thank you for the awesome info! Hopeful to get out on the drag strip in a few weeks then after that the bike will go back to swb and I'll do some 9/10ths testing done. Bought a gps that Sal from ACE said he uses so it'll be interesting to see what it'll do. I want to test because if I can't hit over 200 consistently on the street in a mile and a half, I'm not going to waste my time/money driving out to Maine lol.
C3L1CA94 yea I never cared to go to the track because I know where my bikes stand on the street doing 9/10ths runs, plus I'd need full leathers, kill switch tether, and aluminum chain gaurd and drive across the land just to compete plus u have to go thru the mandatory licensing process before making a full pass. I was just like screw all that I'll take my chance on the street..lol.. but anyways yea I'm assuming sal uses the Garmin 72 or something similar as he's a very precise tuner and the other GPS devices like the one I use will do the round up action after u reach 6/10ths of a mile an hour with any speed above 100mph. So 199.6 will round up to 200.. the one he recommends is like the one in my gen 5 zx10 test and tune video that always reads to the 10ths..so it is helpful to know exactly what mph your running especially when u make changes because the roundup GPS will read the same whether u did 199.6 or 200.5 so how do u know if u gained or lost .9mph which is huge at those speeds. I'll either borrow the tenths reading GPS or pay close attention to my guages.. on my busa I've ran 200 multiple times but at different rpms so I have it down now where the real 200 is and where the 199.6 is and ofcourse it makes it easier with an analog tach.. the zx10 is the most pain in the ass tach to gauge or even guess rpm gains because those orange and red blocks only go up in 250 rpm increments so how do u know 14k from 14,150..the next block won't illuminate till 14,250 lol, and every 100rpms on a zx10 is about 1.45mph depending on gearing so to be even 100rpms off in calculations is way off in mph..but anyways I'll tell u now it's very difficult to do 200 mph on a stock motor gen 4 zx10 but if that's your goal for the 1.5 it shouldn't be too bad. With no mirrors and slammed to the ground and the right tune to accommodate 6th gear ram air conditions it's definitely attainable.our gen 4 with just bolt ons is in the mid 190s with mirrors on , pump gas and not even front strapped all achievable with 180lb and below riders. sortve a general rule of thumb or gain in mph from 1 mile to 1.5 is 5mph so if u can do 195 in the 9/10ths or standing mile u should be able to do 200 in 1.5 unless u really hit a brick wall after 8/10ths.similiar rule of thumb which u can understand from the drag race world is around a 30mph gain from 1/8th mile to 1/4 mile is a proper back half. .ofcourse gearing is key.. overgeared too much even by 3-5mph will kill the acceleration at those speeds.. start with stock gearing and go from there.. tire choice is also a challenge.. some tires swell more than others and either gain or lose mph regardless of what gearing commander says..but stock gearing with the factory size 190/55 tire (whatever brand) is a perfect starting point.. a hayabusa front fender and mr12 or even e85 is a solid 4 mph gain in itself also..but yea swb, maybe 520 conversion and please don't use that heavy drag race Shinko and that's a good start.. too much rotational weight and rolling resistance will kill your run.. land speed racing is a whole different ballgame.. all about aeros and tune..anyways excuse all my rambling. Lol just trying to help..
Awesome info, I always love to read good info from people with experience. Can never get enough info!
I'm pretty sure I have the Garmin 72, it was the one that reads the .1 because like Sal was saying, guys say they hit 200mph over and over when they really only could've went 199.6. I'd be pretty bummed if I saw 200 every time out on the street and then only did 199.6 out at the event lol.
I did have my head sent off for porting, decking, degree'd the cams and a thinner headgasket but the bike made less power on the dyno yesterday but when I raced a buddy on another gen 4 I put 3 bikes on him pretty easy with a pretty rich tune in it. Curious what it'll run at the drag strip in a few weeks as that will be the real test.
I'm hoping to lose a like 5lbs and be around 170lbs un-suited when I do the mile so I'll probably be a bit above 180 fully suited. Maybe a bit more but I'll look like a stick anything below 170 lol But hopefully that head work actually makes a difference where it matters, I have a tiger racing lsr fender for it, some track body work with a full belly pan I thought would help up top and the track plastics feel a bit lighter, it'll be swb with a 520 chain and aluminum rear sprocket, have the lightweight rear rotor since you have to have 2 brakes to be legal, was planning on mr12 and have some Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa tires I was going to try running. I also still have my stock battle axe tire I was going to bring with or try just in case. I also have one of those MWR WSBK air filters I need to test out but I want to make sure I get my tuning dialed in how it sits before I start messing with that filter as the guys at MWR said the outside cylinders need extra fuel up top.
Other stupid things are ceramic wheel bearings, gutted the ram air of the 'bird cage' and gold foil heat wrapped the tank and all of the airbox. Trying to do all the little things I can think of to help.
Anything I'm missing or other tips and tricks you can recommend?
C3L1CA94 yea there's always little things like ditch frame sliders, remove bar ends, get shorty levers. All the small stuff that pokes out.. even the little footpeg feelers that stick out under your foot on the peg that touch the pavement first in a hard lean..also the mesh screen that covers your ram air is often overlooked.. total surface area of that mesh screen is over 1/4 of the allowable area available for airflow.. so basically by having the mesh is really only letting 75 percent of air to go thru and more than likely is turbulent.. we just switched our k&n filter to the sprint p08 in the gen 4 so I'll be reporting back with gains in mph and midrange response on the hit.. and yes I'm glad u mentioned u lost power on the dyno but put lengths on a friend.. the most important thing i can tell anyone and the most important thing ive ever learned is to stop chasing dyno numbers.. I did that for years and got nowhere. Wasted time and money..the same dyno as very well explained in brock Davidson's recent videos can change power output from day to day.. hell even from morning to night. This is when I started GPS'ing everything.. forget what the dyno said and only rely on your known speed.. my first experience with this is having my 1st gen busa with bolt ons and pc3 tuned by a local tuner and made increases in power and I was satisfied. Got a GPS and started saving all my data.. one day the pc3 crapped out and I never looked back and started doing ecu tunes only and I had schnitz racing flash the bike and I did the same mph as with the tuned pc3 but with slightly less hp on the same dyno.. I then had sal flash the bike and put a tune in it and I gained 3 mph over the other tunes but i made the least amount of hp that bikes ever seen.. I then learned that lean conditions and alot of timing will make great dyno numbers but run like shit on the street. Sal knows fueling, timing and it shows on the street but his tunes will never win a dyno contest.. but who cares.. dyno is bragging rights and a tool for tuning but not the end all story..so always GPS regardless off what the dyno says..ive seen higher mph in bikes making up to 10hp less than the same bike with different tune, great example. Watch my latest video when I was on my 08 gixxer. My friend has an 08 Gixxer also with similar mods and he makes more hp than me and look at the difference in mph, I can feel him in anytime even with a major headstart and he full tucks. Now he's 25 more lbs than me but still it's not enough to mean I should be that much stronger.. also very important. Not only should u document your GPS speeds but please document your speed for that day and the weather. This is Highly important or u can chase your tail again.. u may have made a slight tune change or parts change and go to test and be down 3 mph when really the bike is faster but a headwind of 5 mph ruined the GPS run and you'll assume your tune change is a fail.. most people don't GPS they just race, so u can imagine that hardly anybody is going to track weather. A crosswind or headwind or combo of both destroys a high speed pass. So make sure u write down the weather patterns for a run and the direction your traveling..and learn what the weather directions mean.. for example if the weather site doesent use arrows to point to the direction of the traveling wind and they only use letters like 5 S.W..that doesent mean the wind is heading South West at 5mph. It means it's coming FROM the southwest at 5mph.. so it's now a north east tailwind..so best thing to do is do practice runs on calmer days 0-2 mph winds to keep data easier unless u wanna calculate and adjust for wind conditions on what theoretically you could have done.. lucky for u 1000s arent as affected by crosswinds as zx14s or busas from having less surface area for the wind to push..but you'll be more affected by a headwind since the aeros of a 1000 isn't as good as a busa or 14.. so what's funny is let's say u and a buddy of yours who has a hayabusa have the same e.t and same mph in a 1 mile run when the weather is perfect (0 degrees wind) but one day u guys race and there's a 10mph headwind he's gonna beat u because his bike cuts thru the headwind better.. and on the flipside in a 10mph crosswind you should win because he's more likely to get blown around, nothing else changed with riders or tune or parts. Just weather lol.. interesting stuff.. I actually have video with a still shot of me and a friend coming thru the finish leaned over from crosswinds, it definitely matters but highly overlooked..
On me it hd a much bigger difference we got 5 mph higher top speed when we changed to Sport touring Sport touring is the way to go on all bikes if you want the best AERO handsdown.. If you dont like it ok but aero wise best ever.. When i had gen4 i went for ST windscreen becasue corsa was a bit short you could only hide behinde a triangular piece of lets say 2inch wide and 2inch hight..But ehn we changed to ST wow thats was night and day the whole face wentr undet the windscreen easy..
What is Top speed
Double ? Corsa ?
I think its better to compare dark smoke and light smoke
Yea a light smoke would've been maybe a better comparison but I bought the corsa with the idea of doing some standing mile racing and wanted something I would be able to see through clearly. Maybe someday I'll buy another one
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Thanks for the helpful feedback...
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