Easy to do!! Yeah right lol. I've only got my thumb and little finger on my right hand as a result of a work accident back in 84 so is a little difficult for me, but I keep trying to master it... Enjoy watching your videos... Very informative...
Just make more winds of both threads around the blank. For thicker inlays you have to use thicker thread, or double up on your inlay threads - inlay 2 side by side and then 1 of the wrapping thread as you go around each time.
I would use D, If you want your metallic thread to show a lot use D or Larger. You can find larger metallic thread at some of these hobby and craft stores. The larger the thread the less wraps you need. After you make a couple of rods you will see why many use size D instead of size A or B. If you are building fly rods or small diameter rods you may want to eventually use a smaller diameter thread. Personally I use size D or larger for my decorations, flash and pop. But I also build big game rods, my eyesight is not getting any better and I would rather be fishing than spinning a half mile of size A thread on my rods while using a magnifying glass to see where my thread is going. Metallic thread is not as strong as polyester or nylon. For very small rods with light test line you can probably get away with metallic on your guides with epoxy. For bigger game rods I use polyester or nylon and For very big game rods I use Size D nylon 3 wraps over each guide foot and may use a metallic on top after 1st coat epoxy. I do a lot of other things too and there's always someone out there who says you are doing it wrong or not necessary. It' your custom rod built to your specifications. Stay away from cotton thread.
Hopes this helps You have to use enough tension it's not too tight so you can move the guide and not too loose where your guide just falls out. What I have done is start the thread loose and slowly adjust your tension. You can try some test wraps on an old damaged blank first. You have to be careful with today's high end carbon thin walled rods, too much tension can cause the blank to be squashed or the guide feet digs into the blank. Alps and Forecast guide feet are ground so your thread runs up easier. Fuji you have to do some grinding work yourself. I am not sure about American Tackle, Seaguide and Kigan. This gentleman is using the Renzetti Rod Lathe, I on the other hand use an Alps machine.
i could never work out how top rod builders were ending there underbind with 1 turn of metallic ,after years i worked it out they were actualy starting with 1 turn then crossing over to the normal underbind.
much tighter to run your inlay spool in the carriage, and have tag go the opposite way , make a locking x , wrap over the tag line snip and no show .i don't like to touch my thread.
More info and practical, clear, concise info than 99.999% of vids out there. Thank you Tom.
Easy to do!! Yeah right lol. I've only got my thumb and little finger on my right hand as a result of a work accident back in 84 so is a little difficult for me, but I keep trying to master it... Enjoy watching your videos... Very informative...
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge
You just answered questions that I have been trying to figure out thank you.
getting ready to wrap my first rod and i really like the inlay in this video. here goes nothing
How do I get a paper magazine?
www.rodmakermagazine.com
Great video. What wrapping device is that you are using? Thanks in advance
The lathe is a Renzetti unit.
this might be a stupid question but what is inlay thread?
Chad Lavasseur z
Chad Lavasseur b
Where ca I get this thread?
Super!!! These threads are cotton or acrylic!
Use nylon or polyester
Awesome, I'm trying to subscribe to the magazine but found that the website isn't working. Please advise,
It's fine, reload your page and see if that doesn't do the trick.
twist before cut is genius...
Right, it tightens the thread twist and helps make a much trimmer and neater cut end.
I concur! Just like with rope. Keep forgetting that thread is just a very small rope.
excellent.. why i subscribed
Verry good master i like 🤩🤩🤩
Who make the lathe that you are using ?
ok question say you want 6 to 8- 1/8th lines in a same line how could you do that?
Just make more winds of both threads around the blank. For thicker inlays you have to use thicker thread, or double up on your inlay threads - inlay 2 side by side and then 1 of the wrapping thread as you go around each time.
oh guess i didnt say that wright... i was wanting to put 6 to 8 1/8th or dashes of silver in a single line of black ..
I know this video is old but what size thread is that gold?
I would use D, If you want your metallic thread to show a lot use D or Larger. You can find larger metallic thread at some of these hobby and craft stores. The larger the thread the less wraps you need. After you make a couple of rods you will see why many use size D instead of size A or B. If you are building fly rods or small diameter rods you may want to eventually use a smaller diameter thread. Personally I use size D or larger for my decorations, flash and pop. But I also build big game rods, my eyesight is not getting any better and I would rather be fishing than spinning a half mile of size A thread on my rods while using a magnifying glass to see where my thread is going. Metallic thread is not as strong as polyester or nylon. For very small rods with light test line you can probably get away with metallic on your guides with epoxy. For bigger game rods I use polyester or nylon and For very big game rods I use Size D nylon 3 wraps over each guide foot and may use a metallic on top after 1st coat epoxy. I do a lot of other things too and there's always someone out there who says you are doing it wrong or not necessary. It' your custom rod built to your specifications. Stay away from cotton thread.
What rod wrapping tool is being used here?
The machine is a Renzetti, but the technique does not rely on a specific lathe or wrapping machine.
Great video. Thanks m8.
how much thread tension do you use? Is it tight or relatively loose?
Hopes this helps
You have to use enough tension it's not too tight so you can move the guide and not too loose where your guide just falls out. What I have done is start the thread loose and slowly adjust your tension. You can try some test wraps on an old damaged blank first.
You have to be careful with today's high end carbon thin walled rods, too much tension can cause the blank to be squashed or the guide feet digs into the blank. Alps and Forecast guide feet are ground so your thread runs up easier. Fuji you have to do some grinding work yourself. I am not sure about American Tackle, Seaguide and Kigan.
This gentleman is using the Renzetti Rod Lathe, I on the other hand use an Alps machine.
that's useful, thanks!
verry good
i could never work out how top rod builders were ending there underbind with 1 turn of metallic ,after years i worked it out they were actualy starting with 1 turn then crossing over to the normal underbind.
I have two renzetti lathe top quality nothing come close to them
much tighter to run your inlay spool in the carriage, and have tag go the opposite way , make a locking x , wrap over the tag line snip and no show .i don't like to touch my thread.
Not everyone has a thread carriage. Our videos are intended to apply even to builders who may be working with the very most basic equipment.
I get it . I started wrapping with a book , jar , and a cardboard box ,lol.
video sfuocato
Super!!! These threads are cotton or acrylic!