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Top Picks Dream Speaker Drivers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2018
- Here are my dream drivers. If only I had to money to design a speaker like this!
B&C 18IPAL
Accuton S280-6-282
Accuton C168-6-990
Volt VM752
RAAL 140-15D or Viawave GRT145
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“But we can’t really spend several thousand dollars on drivers cause our wives would kill us” brilliant wording
As he rattles off $30k in drivers
I have a 4-way series of (smaller) speakers utilizing the Scanspeak Illuminator and revelator lines. I really like the sound of Scanspeak’s beryllium tweeters. D3004/6040’s, 12mu mids, 18wu midbasses, and 32w subwoofers. These drivers are hugely impressive.
icandreamstream
I was thinking ScanSpeak for my dream system . Probably a bad idea, but I’d like to stay with one company,although other companies may make certain drivers better
good to know , thanks . I actually seen them being used in Sonys $27000 stereo ar1 speakers . Not sure which tweeter they were using for sure , but the other drivers looked just like scanspeak
I am build my Dream Speaker, Kinda. I went and listened to a set of $30K us dollars Bowers& W 800D3 speakers with all the Macintosh gear and I was like, Where is the Bass? So I am building a Klipsch KLF30 Clone with Bob Crites mids/tweeters+ Horns and crossovers. Dual CIARA 12" HM321 drivers .There is no guarantee that it will sound good but I'm willing to gamble. It seems you really can't buy anything above either dual 8" woofer, It seems that the Elites look down on a speaker that can rock the house. But when you go listen to a blues band in a smokey bar, they all use 15" drivers so how could you ever match the real thing when you have a bunch of 5" drivers.
You and I share common goals. I recommend that you consider a "Cornscala" approach instead of KLF30. The big driver and broad baffle do great things for midbass punch. Pair with a relatively large exit mid horn like Community SRH or big Econowave (Cornwall's weak point). Add a ring diaphragm horn tweeter like a vintage JBL or TOA. DSP active multiamp, 18" sub. Dynamic realism in spades! (But grounds for divorce.) Wish you could hear mine!
Finally someone talking about active crossovers!
IMO once you hear how night-and-day better active speakers/crossovers sound than passive, it's pretty hard to go back. Meridian DSP5200 were my first intro to active DSP speakers and they made the Wilson WATT/Puppy I demo'd a few hours before them sound like a clock radio by comparison.
The audiophile world tends to use passive because of all the wires and programming involved in active. And they like to pick their amps. Pretty much a diy only solution. Too bad really.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Sir, I respectfully beg to differ. Meridian, LInn, Genelec, and ATC all make active loudspeakers for the home, and several manufacturers are doing active subwoofers, such as Focal in the big boy Utopia towers.
I agree active speakers are nowhere near passive in terms of selection, but go get your ears on a pair of Meridian DSP5200 or 7200 and tell me if you walk out of the demo wishing you could nitpick about what amps they use ;)
@@blendtecbrah5761 oh we agree. I just think there isn’t more choice because of those issues. Audiophiles like to pick their own amps and stuff.
I probably want something that was coaxial for the mid and highs. Directionality is absolutely terrible on almost all speakers, especially ribbons.
Maybe the TAD beryllium coaxial driver.
For me: 1. Sensitivity must match an amplifier(s) and be enough for a particular room, and ideally must be the same for all drivers 2. Do not spread voice range to different drivers 3. Small mid range driver < 5” 4. As flat FR as possible (or as an option exponential slope that can be managed in preamp) 5. Good FR curve at bands border 6. Fas/Qts of a woofer must match a cabinet architecture, Qms must be high enough 7. No ribbon shoulders 8. No PA products 9. A price that makes sense comparing to retail products 10. Is a tweeter good from 15-30 deg angle
Everithing is matter of taste. I heard ages ago accuton drivers in some avalon speakers. To my own taste these speakers were very precise however they were very dry, and lack musicality. But this is my taste. Some people die for these accutons, I like paper drivers and polyprop drivers. I like the skaaning drivers and believe or not tang band bamboo drivers. As well I like the very old vifa wood pulp drivers. By the way I’m using right now in my very ugly diy three way speakers with old drivers. Peerless 850146 woofer, a tang band 4 inch driver and a Raven R2 ribbon tweeter. May be the best highs I ever have in my system with these Ravens. Best regards.
I heard the Raven ribbons some 20 years ago in big , efficient tower with Focals and I was really impressed. I remember Orca was distributor for all plus they had Cabbasse , too bad NOA.
You pretty much described a very similar system to what I have. I am currently using a set of RAAL 140-15D- AM dipoles in my open baffle arrangement, but also have 3 x 140-15D-AM monopoles, and 4 x 70-10D-AM scheduled for my home theater speakers. The 140-15D-AM are mind blowing. For mids I am using 2 x ScanSpeak 12MU paper Illuminators (per side) in place of the Accutons. I actually thought about buying some 5"-6.5" Accutons for the mids, but they can be a little sterile. Especially when you couple it with something as revealing as the RAALs. For bass I am using TC Sounds 5100 Pro's.
For active cross over duties I am using a Ground Sound DCN28, although if I was to spend that kind of money again I would probably consider the DEQX HDP-5. If you wanted more than three channels per side then the Ground Sound would be the pick with four channels per side compared to the DEQX three per side. Amplification I am currently using a Halcro 7 channel MC70 but that will eventually find its way into the home theater system. The TC Sounds are a hands down better driver than the B&C but unfortunately the company appears to have folded. The drivers were mostly used in cinemas and stage use, and not the cheapest drivers around. With a single LMS 5400 Ultra costing me $2,500 to get it to Australia.
That sounds like a super nice system. Good luck with the home theatre build!
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers thanks just need to pull my finger out and get them built.
What stadium are you designing those for? It must be a big one with no roof.
Above 400Hz I have two favored solutions. One is out of production, the Fibonacci 40" x1" ribbon, coupled with the large RAAL ribbons from about 8K up.. My other favored high is Inlow 'paper' horn with TAD compression driver, or a very highly modified JBL with better diaphragms and enlarged back chambers. I use both TAD 1601 woofers in Onkin style enclosures and GPA(Altec pattern) 515-8LF 16" drivers.. in huge back side horn enclosures. I also use quite successfully very large JBL bi-radial horns ( added damping layers, and soon, we are adding edge rounding to eliminate diffraction) with JBL 18" woofs in the theater.
Jennifer WhiteWolf I’ve used the Be diaphragms in a JBL compression driver but I’ve never heard of modifying the chamber to be larger. That’s interesting.
My dream speaker is Aurum Cantus G1 tweeter and Acoustic elegance TD15M woofer with 4th order LR crossover.
Ribbon tweeters that I used (like the emit-r infinity) were crossed at 10khz. I saw too many issues crossing over much lower and integrating with a cone/dome. My original VMPS towers used a focal t120 tioxid crossed over at 10khz to a emit-r. This eliminated the focal's nasty resonance (about 17khz) while allowing the emit-r to shine without stress.
I would really like to use the new BlieSma T-34B-4. It is a Beryllium tweeter which does all most all things perfectly. Can do 1,5 khz crossover easily with almost constant directivity.
I would match it with some SB Acoustics Satori woofers in a 3-way configuration. Then DSP it perfectly smooth in a downward frequency slope, time-alligned everything. Powered by some Hypex Class-D amps.
Hypex amps are great , got 3 of them
B&C is one of the, if not the best PA loudspeaker manufacturers. However the 18IPAL's motor is way too strong for the mass it has to move (Qt=0,14 - I don't even think I have ever seen a driver with a Qt this low), which results in a not so great suitability for neither sealed nor vented enclosure - you end up with 87dB/1W sensitivity with two drivers in series. The only sensible usage for it is to put it into a horn enclosure, which would have to be massive if you want to reach deep bass.
I keep looking at Mundorf AMT tweeters and scanspeak illuminator mids. The volt subs look crazy too.
I went RAAL and Illuminators they work very well together.
Mundorf did a bunch of research in placing the AMT tweeters into waveguides for proaudio use and as a result they have AMT waveguide tweets in their proaudio linecard.
I have 2 Mundorf dipole AMT tweeters in my perfect dipole speakers (constant directivity from 20 Hz to 20 Khz) . They sound terrific !
I’ve got a pair of NOS JBL D 123 that have been sitting around for a few years now. I don’t ant to sell them but instead I’m constantly wondering what to do with them. My thinking is a large set of boxes and a horn to get an old JBL relaxed bottom sound. Not looking to compete with newer speakers. Also I already have a pair of 4311a JBLs so I don’t need to build any like them. Dream, Dream,dream.
Seas a26re4. Fantastic frequency response and mid range for a "10" woofer.
I'm planning a line array system using Accuton and RAAL drivers.
These are the scanspeak drivers I’d like to use .
D2908/7140 1" Beryllium Dome Tweeter
18M/4631T 7" Midrange Driver
32W/4878T-01 13" Woofer
I’m not sure ,but another idea I have is to use two Scan-Speak 28W/4878T Revelator 11" Subwoofers in each tower . My reasoning is , if two woofers are using half there excursion for a given volume , they would in theory sound cleaner?
I find using a 13” makes for a wide enclosure,and I have to say I like the looks of my paradigm Studio 100V5’s.
I’d like to follow Focals Sonora design idea . Tilt the enclosure back so the woofers are aimed at the listeners head , then mount the tweeter in a separate enclosure above the woofers and aimed at the listeners head , then have that 7” in its own enclosure and have it tilted so that it’s also aimed properly .
I wouldn’t have these chambers independent from one another like Focals grand utopia,as I’m not understanding why there isn’t diffraction issues caused by the horizontal chassis areas .
I am working with these Accutons on the customer's build. The woofer is excellent. Haven't measured the mid properly yet but it looks to be quite good too.
Viawave GRT145 now has 8ohm brother and interchangable cast aluminum waveguide which controls the directivety and lowers crossover point or order of the electrical network.
After going back passive from miniDsp 4x10hd, I would reccomend not doing multiple amps on drivers as such. Just my 2c.
As always, enjoyed your TH-cam vid.
Impulse response that must be a very fun build. The viawave is quite great. With a waveguide that makes it even better. Would probably be the way to go ultimately.
Can you explain exactly why you go back to passive? I liked the idea of dsp to control everything digital and like to implement this in a future build. After reading your comment I’m not sure about this.
@@FyyMyy
I would suggest, listening to the DSP based system first. I've played with mine for 2 or 3 years and while it's extremely flexible and powerful, it made the system sound docile.
DSP is a great tool for x-over design and I would definitely do it for HT set ups. But for 2-channel stereo, I don't think it's there yet.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers
Measured these Accutons. The are NOT easy to work with. Mid definitely needs a notch. I designed a bottomless notch for it.
Woofer's break up is also pronounced enough to require notch. I'll give it a listen first with the 2nd order electrical.
Impulse response ouch, for that kind of money you’d expect better. I kind of wondered about it looking at the data sheet but figured what ever I’d cross them low. But I used so many bands it raises other problems.
Very nice and illustrative videos made by you backed up by analysis of technical parameters....great work!!!
please throw some light whether car speakers can be used in diy home audio use, since car speaker manufacturers dont mention their T/S parameters for designing purpose. Thanks in advance🙂
Build it!
I would love to test those ribbons you mentioned against the BlieSma T-34B-4. In fact I would probably try to make the speaker modular so that I could swap drivers easily. That is much easier with a DSP/active setup, of course, because crossovers can be changed for free in seconds.
You should consider a line source for one of these fantasies. Having an room-high array of drivers makes them to start act like one big flat wave, eliminating timing problems. And because you eliminate timing problems, you can use ribbons, of any size you like, but I would keep it with smaller ones to keep the moving mass per motor as low as possible, giving the best possible transience. And because you will have so many of them, they will be able to handle the lower treble easily with extremely low distortion.
Sven Muilwijk actually that’s a really good point. If money is no object in a dream like this, then a line array is a good way to go. Hadn’t thought of that!
I'm still loving my 893's!
Obsessed DIY good to hear!
line source is what comes to mind for me, either with conventional drivers like Scan-Speak 1.5 elliptical dome D3004/552000 Ellipticor. and Seas E0043 M15CH-002 a 5" midrange with astonishing low 6.76 grams moving mass. two tall towers of these, tweeters towards the center and midranges on the sides.
then subwoofers line towers or one walled filled in a grid pattern for ultimate wave dispersion. look up: Lambda Labs Wall of Bass. woofer of choice is Scan-Speak bass 23W/4557T02 9" with only 101 grams of moving mass.
another option for the main towers is FPS 1010M3R1 6-5/16" Flat Panel MCMA Planar Speaker 8 Ohm 50W
The large 6-5/16" square size project a planar wave pattern from 130 to 13,000 Hz.
im pretty sure floor to ceiling of these drivers alone can do 100hz or we can do the crossover to the sub wall at 150z for that mid bass punch, even have the wall be stereo sub at either side split at the middle.
sudd nice picks!
thanks, was really fun looking things up and browsing expensive parts :)
Ribbon tweeters are great. Even Dayton's planar 8 ohms 100 watt is decent.
This is my favourite subject ,as I’ve always dreamed about making my own speakers for critical music listening.
I come from a car audio back ground , and thought I knew speakers quite well, but I’m learning volumes from you .
My theory was to use class A amplifiers for the midrange and tweeter , and class D for the woofers. Can’t be bothered with valves.
For an active crossover, there are not as many options like in the car audio world . I was looking at the mini dsp 4x10 and it sure had distortion issues in a review I read .Shame as I want time alignment also .
The distortions may not be noticeable though, as you own one yourself I believe .
I’m liking ScanSpeak drivers , and for some reason would like to stay with the same company and not miss match drivers . But I suspect that’s the wrong way to go about it .
Have one midrange per enclosure , a Scan-Speak 18M/8631T Revelator 7" Midrange.
Have one tweeter per enclosure , ScanSpeak D2908/7140 Beryllium Dome Revelator Tweeter.
For a woofer , one Scan-Speak 32W/4878T01 Revelator 13" Woofer - 4 ohm. Was debating using two of there 8 ohm models per enclosure though , as I’d sooner have a driver using half it’s excursion to produce sound . Tell you the truth I’d sooner have a pair of 8” for the woofers,but don’t see any from that manufacturer.
I’d still have a subwoofer or subwoofers also . I think 15” would be fine for me though .
Also hearing good things about Dayton Audio and Eton .
I mentioned in another one of your videos , that I’d like to mimic Focals design ,sort of like the Kanta or Sopra series . I’d have the bottom woofers tilted back towards the listeners ears , then have the tweeter aligned vertically at ear level, and have the midrange above the tweeter tilted down towards the listener .
I am purchasing a cnc router table next fall from cncrouterparts . If I ever did a speaker build , for the enclosures I’d like to cut several layers of mdf and stack and glue them together , as I’d like curved sides . Would like to keep the enclosure walls at least 2 inches thick , maybe thicker for the front baffle . Have curved walls in the midrange chamber ,and a slanted rear wall for eliminating standing waves .
Well , while I’m dreaming and all lol
0:49 @İmpulse Audio at the end of the sentence you gently swallowed the water of your mouth that show you really mean what you told :)))))
Thanks for the video and great information man , REAL MAN , haha
Morel ST 1108 Supreme, I wonder if they are worth the asking price of $490 a pair.
oldskool: my favorite setup was E-V SH-1502s, driven by Crown Micro-Tech 1000s ( I liked my Rock n' Roll ;-)
Compared Jeff Bagby's Revolution Be vs Ascend Acoustics's bookshelf with the Raal, the SB29BAC budget beryllium blew it away in detail, control, airiness, everything. I was rooting for the Raal too!
That's really interesting. And I don't doubt it. I do have some reservations about spending the money on RAAL. I'm not sure they would deliver. Which is why I had a fall back with the Viawave. Be tweeters have impressed me a lot too.
You should crowed fund the building of those dream speakers and offer them as a raffle prize. We could all learn from your project.
Interesting idea. Not sure I have a big enough following to do something like that, but would be a lot of fun.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers I've seen way stupider ideas do well on gofundme. I'd pay $25 to see videos on your dream build and a chance to win the resulting speakers. I have a unique design idea to share. stewart photographic
Accuton also makes 50mm diamond midranges and 20mm diamond tweeters. :)
eug3nius oooo those sound nice. Can’t recall if I saw those while hunting around for good drivers.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers
$11300 per pair, they use these in the Bugatti Chiron hyper-car
hificompass.com/en/speakers/measurements/accuton/accuton-bd51-6-585
I wish you could try the Purifi driver and suggest how it is
Also no videos coming from you.
I really like your channel and eagerly waiting for your videos
Never heard of it. I’ll look it up.
I guess diamond tweeter would be nice.
Thanks for sharing.
You need a pair of iwatta's with a nice CD!! Nice drawing !
You should check out the RAAL 70-20XR it's the most impressive ribbon I've ever tested and owned. Plus they have 3 different gain inputs and using a single capacitor for each input.
If you want to see the towers I built and put them in a few years back here's the link. th-cam.com/video/RhD05mhR2vU/w-d-xo.html
I have been to a lot of HiFi shows and I've beeb impressed by 2 tweeters: Accutone diamond and the new berilium tweeters, either be SEAS or ScanSpeak. Also loved the ribbon from Raidho.
oscar l. I also am really impressed with the Be tweeters.
Berilium I'll pass on the cancerous tweeters, may as well chew on a microwave magnatron until I grow a third ear.
Just looked at these Accuton drivers, wow you have expensive tastes . I can’t even dream that big lol.
Many people including Troels claimed that Viawave GRT-145 tweeters are not any worse than RAALs.
Илья Основиков I do believe that. The testing I did was impressive. But of course such a temptation to try a RAAL.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Here is a quote from Troels regarding GRT-145:
"I've used ribbon tweeters before but never felt I had to go back, but this ribbon changed my feelings. Being a fairly large ribbon, it displays an impressive frequency response and very low distortion all the way down to 1 kHz, allowing a wider range of crossover options than usual, thus a 2nd order filter at 2 kHz is possible.
The "thing" about this ribbon tweeter is that the gaps between the ribbon and poles of magnets are sealed with a U-shaped mylar suspension, thus reducing air turbulence, increasing sensitivity and reducing distortion. And it works! This ribbon tweeter delivers some of the best highs I've had, regardless of brand, principle and price. The naturalness of cymbals, violins, whatever is astonishing. Put the best money can buy in front of it - and it delivers."
www.troelsgravesen.dk/ATiRi.htm
Btw my dream build is not that expensive i just want 3 way sb acustics satori line speaker. I have heard them and they are very very good.
satori are awesome just because your not paying 500 per driver doesnt mean they are any less great. Its just this co. doesn't gouge there customers.They are as good if not better than scanspeak with the same style magnets.I plan on doing 2 ,10 inch white paper cone satories with a 6.5 inch coaxial driver in the center from seas. these speaker will be set up as the WTW style. Ill use one in a sideways configuration for my center channel and to tower configurations for my left and right channels. When im done these speakers will stand up to sound tests of speakers costing 100,000 bucks a pair..
@@odincoulombe706
Why not use a single SEAS L26ROY? :)
because you cant do WTW with only one. wtw= woofer tweeter woofer..@@eug3nius
@@eug3nius and ill get huge sound stage
I've got a active, sealed Satori system with 2 WO24P-8's, MR16P-4 l and TW29BN-B, driven by a Hypex FA123. Works amazingly.
What materials are in the cone of the Accuton's?
I think they’re ceramic but can’t remember exactly.
I've used the HiVi F6 midbass as the woofer in a 2 way. Check into the clarity of a kevlar/pulp cone.
You should consider the Italian made Focal Speakers. I’ve never mapped out their sound (I don’t have your equipment) but they are by far the clearest audio I’ve ever heard in car, home or even sound bars.
Jeff Duncan they are pretty good but they no longer sell drivers to the DIY home market. And they were pretty expensive too!
Impulse Audio yes I think you’re right. They are extremely expensive but they truly sound amazing!
I have a pair of Focal Solo 6bes with the Focal sub. They are great but I just finished a DIY 3-way that sounds much better. Wouldn't pay $5,000 for the monitoring system again now that I know how to build something that rivals it for $600.
Focal is made in France.
Tweeter: Klipsch K-510 horn with Radian 745NEO 1.4” Truextent Beryllium diaphragm; Midrange: Klipsch K-402 Horn with Radian 950PB 2” Truextent Beryllium diaphragm; Horn loaded Bass Bins; Xilica XP4080 balanced DSP (tri-amped); McIntosh MC2KW balanced monoblocks for the bass; Pass Labs balanced XS 150’s for the midrange and tweeters.
Any cabin to fit them in TL design?
@@dkaloupis75 - you need the Horn loaded bass to match the directivity and time decay of the horn loaded midrange and tweeter
@@petersouthernboy6327 How much do you want to design my cabinets based on the units you mentioned but TL for Bass?
@@dkaloupis75 Transmission Lines aren’t practical for large woofers - the cabinets would be enormous. Also the midrange benefits of the TL are negated by the 300 Hz crossover level of the K-402 horn.
After moving to waveguides I can't go back to regular domes and the directivity of ribbons aren't my cup of tea.
As for the subs I would probably go with the B&C IPAL's too or maybe some BMS 18N862, mid woofers would probably be something from B&C, 18 Sound or BMS, high frequency would be handled by a set of BMS 4594ND coaxial's in an appropriate horn.
Or maybe skip all that and just go for The Loudspeaker from Troels.
Corrado VRz I actually started making this video with a “traditional hifi” speaker and a HT speaker. The HT speaker was gonna use a big horn. I decided to trim it back to this. Definitely an awesome way to build a good speaker. The directivity of ribbons doesn’t bother me.
Corrado VRz I actually started making this video with a “traditional hifi” speaker and a HT speaker. The HT speaker was gonna use a big horn. I decided to trim it back to this. Definitely an awesome way to build a good speaker. The directivity of ribbons doesn’t bother me.
Total price for the drivers/crossovers for the build?
There is very interesting midrange driver Eton 3-400/A8/25Mg hificompass.com/ru/speakers/measurements/eton/eton-3-400a825mg Could be a very good match for any ribbon tweeter. The only problem is they were recently discontinued. But you might get lucky and still find a pair or two in some car audio store. I believe they were sold in pairs as car speakers.
Bass: 4x BMS 18N850v2 (don't like huge xmax woofers); Midbass: 2x Acoustic Elegance TD15M Apollo; Midrange: 2x B&W Continuum mid; Tweeter: 2x BlieSMa T34B. PS: I'd also pay for driver matching to < 0.5dB.
eug3nius very nice choices. I had to look up the BlieSMa. Very nice. I have a non-Apollo TD15M that I will be doing a test video about eventually.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers
The BlieSMa T34B is a big dome tweeter with high xmax that can be crossed as low as 1.5kHz - ideal partner for the C168 you picked IMHO. Myself, I go with the B&W mid because I don't like hard material drivers (unless they're beryllium or diamond tweeters and they ring way outside the audible range). The previous yellow Kevlar B&W mid-range is available as a spare part and it's not too expensive.
PS: BlieSMa recently had a Black Friday promotion 25% off, I know a guy who bought two.
Accuton all the way
I would love electrostatic speakers and the correct amp to drive them because they function entirely different. Typically the same premise, but beastly. Not earbuds but 6ft Speakers @ 5k watts, but you need a unique amp to drive them. Here's a good example. th-cam.com/video/U5dJn7V_4Bk/w-d-xo.html
+Impulse Audio
I'd say that you chose a very nice selection of the highest-end drivers. 👍
I'm using the ATC domes as they are the midrange drivers in my SCM25A Pro studio monitors, combined with two 18" TransAudio/Subwoofer Pros subs for my tracking/mixing monitoring setup.
In your case, ultimately, it would depend on your goals for the system, and the peculiarities of your listening environment, which would determine the final combination of drivers that you choose.
A friend of mine tested a lot of the drivers that you mentioned, and some others that are not shown (the Accutons for example), to use in his Car Audio system. :-O The Accuton's ended up in his buddy's Toyota FJ Cruiser A-pillars, ha!
Check out the following posts to see some of the drivers that he tested (both measurements & listening tests) for his 2016 Ford Transit Connect daily driver and SQ competition vehicle. And to see what he ended up with. :-P Some tracks imaged depth-wise way out in front of the car where the wood fence is shown in the second link. ;-)
Not shown, but he did end up using the Foam Plugs in the RAAL Ribbons to help control their directivity. And there are 10" Scanspeak Discovery woofers in the left & right front kickpanels, plus an 15" AE IB15 subwoofer in IB configuration (vented to the outside) in the rear hatch!
www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/5358914-post349.html
www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/5575607-post371.html
th-cam.com/video/HCli3ecsu7U/w-d-xo.html
I'd use those subs too... for a 1000 seat venue. How big's your living room?
Nick Walker haha no that big. But I want completely distortion free bass with unflinching dynamics :D
Can you please make a Video for transmission line enclosure ..?thanks .
mohammad alsammak hmm, I actually don’t have much experience with them. I understand them and could do a video about them, but not a very good authority on the subject. I’ll see what I can do in the future but do have quite a few ideas ahead.
Impulse Audio ❤️
You're ignoring phase distortion that you get every time you use a different driver for a different frequency. Tweeters need a waveguide or horn to load the moving portion of the driver to minimize distortion and maximize dispersion. A properly shaped bell is the ONLY way to accomplish both functions. Tannoy did a decent job of this by putting the tweeter at the apex of a 12" woofer cone. I like the looks of the Faital Pro FD371 8ohm Horn Super Tweeter. It's within 3dB from 2KHz to 20KHz with 107 dB sensitivity. $172 on eBay.
No not ignoring anything. I’d prefer the benefits of additional bands and just work to dial in the phase. Once phase is lined up by both drivers there is no phase distortion. That’s kind of a myth.
I use plenty of waveguides. Love compression drivers and horns. But on this dream build I didn’t find that necessary.
The Aurum Cantus carbon fiber woofers are the ones I'd like to try, but out of my price range.
Bought some Krix, problem solved. Listened to anything under 5k. Selected these based on sound and paid less than 2k. Second choice was 4k. There's only so much engineering you can do before you're researching the researched. Million dollar engineered speakers in a zero dollar acoustic engineered room = lucky dip. Audio is incredibly complex, so is the bullshit that goes with it. $12,000 HDMI cables? $6000 directional grain IEC power cable? WTF? Then I read one tosser in a review talking about how he's 'running in' and interconnect cable and it's sounding better each day. We have low pass and high pass filters but the one we really need is a 130db bullshit filter.
I’d like to get a measurement mic. Can you do a video on setting up to measure and the equipment you use?
Aaron Wolfram I do plan on some stuff like that but have a few things in the works before I can get to it.
Can you do a video on picking a driver for super tweeter and the choice of xover. Thanks.
I like your idea of supplementing the bottom end with a separate subwoofer regardless . Which gets me thinking,should I design my front speakers with a higher response in the Bass region which would give the woofers more efficiency, possibly helping to get that punchy type of bass/midbass?
What I’m implying is designing a roll off of about 40 hz ,instead of trying to get down to 20, and let the sub do the rest.
Dumb idea?
MajorTendonitis great idea. Part of why running subwoofers separately is a good idea. But a little more implementation work is all.
Only $25k in drivers. Sure I'll place that order today
you get a chance need to check out visaton line of drivers.KE 25 SC one of the flattest tweeters in the world with low FS. they have many awesome drivers.
is there a reason why the ipals are not in the middle of the baffle ?, cant be baffle related at this frequency . to me its funny most drivers a chosen by looks and price, not so much what they do, or more how they sound since you heard almost none of them.. :(
Not sure what you mean. Maybe the graphic is just odd looking? They can be in the middle and that's where I would put them. As you said, the baffle has no effect that low in frequency. The point of the video was something to dream about. So no I haven't heard most of these (just the IPALs and Viawaves), but most people don't get to hear a driver before they use it. They have to review the specs, other reviews, etc. then try it. This video was about a speaker I would try if I could afford to.
great video
I'd love to swap out my Denovo DNA360's (which are pretty nice) with a SEOS24 loaded with a Berrylium diaphragm large format compression driver. Which one? I don't know. It's all expensive! :D
tehbigshow hey I know this guy!
Hey Ryan! Nice channel you got here. :)
friend of Siegfried, would like to email with you, please contact me under: franzpoliwka@gmail.com@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers
Hello Ryan I am trying to build a cross over for Cerwin Vega components; I am using V465C (94db) for mid range and tweeter and Vega V84D (82db) for bass. I want to build a quality cross over, can you please offer some guidance? Or which resistor do I have to use on mid/tweeter to match subwoofer?
Have you considered to do subwoofer section as an open baffle construction? I know it has drawbacks in how low the bass will go, but improve the bass that might be there
Max B. Simonsen in my opinion the drawbacks are far to big to go OB with the subwoofer. From 100hz and up, not a bad idea.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers There are not only drawbacks but many advantages too. Check out the so-called Ri-poles.
@@IliyaOsnovikov Or the Orions, one review stands out 'when you turn the volume down it is like you are taking a step back from the stage'.. However OB need to be setup correctly, a nice distance from the back wall and some sound absorption on the wall.. Problem is the wife would move them every single day, I have played and built a couple of OB and wow so clean and fast..
If you had a room large enough for 4 ipals you should probably plan on having huge parties in there and will need a real PA set up. I can imagine this rig is perfect for some dork sitting by themselves in the McMansion watching Adam Sandler movies.
Just because you can do something does not mean it is the best use of resources.
This is just my opinion as I prefer mediocre live music to the best "reproduced" listening experience.
Have you looked at any of the SB Acoustics tweeters? They seem cheap but the frequency response always blows my mind. Do you or anyone else know the quality of the sound in these? Would really like to build a speaker with one.
David Andersson Wred yes I’ve used SB a lot and have always had success. They’re really excellent drivers for a fantastic price. I have a few videos about SB drivers.
Quick question: you mentioned in another video that the beryllium version of the JBL 2446 was the best tweeter you had ever heard. Have you changed your mind? Or perhaps just heard these tweeters since making the earlier video?
A B C actually I haven’t changed my mind. It’s just that this was a dream speaker using drivers I haven’t necessarily heard. The Viawave would be very close to the JBL. In fact it does some things better. But I wouldn’t use the JBL with these woofers and mids. It wouldn’t make sense.
I did originally make this video with two speakers, the other used the JBL. But I cut it out because it seemed repetitive.
Hey Ryan. Legacy uses 2 ribbons, a large and a small with what looks great success. The guys over at htguide at least Jon Marsh has a lot of info on the Accuton drivers and has used them in his designs if you are looking for any info. No I still haven't built Iwata's. Hurts me to say that after all your hard work. But health issues got in the way the past couple years and I'm just starting to get over them. I know I said it before but I would like to touch base with you sometime and chat. Have some questions about the x-overs if you still remember them at all. LOL Hope all is well my friend!
king pin hey good to hear from you. You know the original video had two speakers and the other on was based on the iwata with Be compression drivers. That’s how much I liked them. Video got too long so I trimmed it back to just this one.
Shoot me an email anytime you want.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Awesome buddy. I'm starting to get the itch to build again. Hopefully this spring I can do you proud.
My dream system uses Jordan Jx92s full range drivers, one per side, and a sub employing a Peerless XLS 10" with passive radiator. The great thing about my dream system is that I own it.
Don't you hate when family life gets in the way of a good hobby just watched your picks been a while
Build it!!!
I just build 9.2.4 with scanspeak elipticor
The big RAAL is a good choice, but it will box you in vertically. I'm running main speakers, and actually prefer the RAAL in them nearfield(18-24 inches from speaker). For larger rooms with more than one listening position I am leaning toward waveguided domes with added high frequency support via rear mounted/auxiliary ribbons (see the Von Schweikert VR55). I'm selling my main rig soon, and dreaming/planning a Desktop build with a pair Big RAALs in an MTM with the SB Acoustics SB12CACS25-08 playing mids. The spacing is just wide enough to match the narrow vertical directivity of the RAAL crossing over around 1800Hz. Not sure on woofer, but the 8 inch Dayton Ultimax combined with the 12 inch RSS315-PR passive radiator gets me the output (100dB) and extension (20Hz) I want in a kind of small box. Hypex 3-way DSP plate amps looks like an interesting option to power these.
As for dream drivers I have not heard - Aurasound NS-18. Those in a SWMTMWS with 2 inch thick extruded aluminum enclosures(like YG Acoustics) would be pretty absurd.
NoAudiophile nice choices!
NoAudiophile, are you referring to the Lazy 9"? If so they are too big for conventional speake,r and are much better suited to big horn rigs.
No, the original 140 is what I consider the big raal.. the lazy 9 is just weird and unusable.
@@noaudiophile820 not unusable just very limited application. You need a massive horns to balance such a big tweeter. The 140-15 blends fine with regular speakers.
Yes
Why the B&C over an ultimate or SI HST? The B&C’s sub 40Hz frequency response looks non-existent. I could be interpreting the graph on the site incorrectly though
AllNightPwny it is built really well with a strong motor. It can be used in a small ported enclosure with authority. The Ultimax and SI typical subs are great for HT but rather inefficient and require large boxes when music use is a priority.
AllNightPwny the IEC baffle measurement that they advertise doesn’t represent bass frequencies in an optimal enclosure, they should have no problem going flat to 25-30hz in the right enclosures and with some EQ lower than that.
mine's gonna be a 2-way + sub, all-sealed, multi-amp system.
why just 2-way? because most midranges even 2" domes are just not gonna make any significant improvement. they break up just slightly later than most woofers, not worth the trouble IMO. and i like the look of bookshelf speakers more than tower speakers.
the sub's gonna be Dayton's Ultimax 10"
www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um10-22-10-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-510
and the woofers are gonna be Dayton's DA135-8 5-1/4" (very good specs, very flat until 2 kHz)
www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-da135-8-5-1-4-aluminum-cone-woofer--295-330
and the tweeters are gonna be Peerless BC25TG15-04 (tweeters are pretty much all the same at the same size so i'll just go with the one i like the look)
www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-bc25tg15-04-1-silk-dome-tweeter--264-1040
the xover's gonna be active LR4 @ 120 Hz and 2 kHz
the reason i choose such a small woofer is to minimize beaming and with that steep roll off slope, this is big enough.
this is not gonna be very expensive but if you spend enough time hanging around parts express, you'll know that most expensive drivers are just that, expensive. some even have crappy specs that won't fit in any system imaginable.
Regarding the Viawave GRT-145. You might want to check out the performance with the new waveguide he has developed. 2-15kHz is now within a 2dB window and could easily be adjusted to a flatter response. See link; forum.vegalab.ru/showthread.php?t=76554&page=24&p=2473774&viewfull=1#post2473774
That was add-on waveguide temporary solution. And here is the new waveguide design: forum.vegalab.ru/showthread.php?t=76554&page=28&p=2540028&viewfull=1#post2540028
forum.vegalab.ru/showthread.php?t=76554&page=28&p=2558783&viewfull=1#post2558783
Hei, wich mic do u recomand for very good speaker measurements and maybe not made in the best envirements? :D miniDSP UMIK-1 Omni VS Dayton UMM - 6? Or should i just go all in with the Dayton Omnimic V2?
i raul none of these mics can fix a bad environment. They all essentially work the same way. I like my mini dsp. But the omnimic comes with software that is quite good. Nothing wrong with the free software either though. REW is really good.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers yea, my dilema was... if the Omni mic V2 is a better hardware than the other two mics or u just pay more because u get the software and u don't to search other type of free software
i raul essentially it’s the same mic but you’re getting some additional functionality and integration. The software is apparently very good too.
Obviously such a subjective choice - Im shocked that your using ribbons for high end and have not explored the B&G Neo 8 or 10 as a midrange , even the Neo 10 is only $200 ! I do salivate over the Accuton's especially the AS250-8-552 CELL 11" Woofer...Also since your doing so much acoustic measuring , a video on MiniDSP - a fantastic line of inexpensive DSP for those of us who love to, among other things, use active xover for bi-amp / tri amp setups... I even have one in my F150 and have bi amp setup front and rear ...I also use the Dayton PT2C-8 's (also in my HT 2 ways) in my truck and they absolutely kill !!
GLYNN TILLERY ribbons are nice but I would certainly explore all kinds of drivers. I like that they have good sensitivity.
I have a mini dsp but had an issue with it recently. I may buy another one though and can do a video using it. I have a video about active XOers and people flipped out over that video because I said it takes just as much knowledge as passive XOers.
I have a crossover in xsim wondered if you would like to evaluate it or tweak give advise ect. it is pretty flat + - 2db phase looks ok. its a 3way with dayton reference dome midrange. dayton desinger 12'' woofer and dayton reference tweeter. I can't find other ways to contact you or I would
noahtheviking hi Noah. I’m not able to check XOers for other people or I would become overwhelmed. Hardly enough time to make the videos. I would suggest posting it in a forum or on a Facebook group and ask for feedback.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Yes the forums and facebook neither one even crossed my mind lol. maybe its just me being older and forgeting those options. Love the vids you seem like a pretty sharp guy and honest. take err easy
How is the work with you 3-way going?
Fear Wolf Brewery really good. The morel/fountek version is done. Just need to measure and document. Diysoundgroup is probably going to carry it. The viawave 3 way is going to take a different form. I should do an update video on that.
I will just buy ATC SCM 300 towers
Not a bad choice.
Hey Ryan,
I'll take you up on this project and ship the drivers to you to develop the crossover if you're interested. PM me and we can talk via email.
Just AuBy 🤩 is this a prank?? My email is ryan@impulseaudio.ca but I’ll try and figure out how to PM that to you too.
What do you think of towers with 2 Denovo Magnum 12s and an 8" Fostex? That's per side, MTM style. Too much Magnum for the Fostex?
Norb U sounds awesome. The fostex should have plenty of sensitivity to work with two magnums.
can we get more crossover vids
Mus. I was gonna do one about baffle step compensation soon. Would like to do many more but time is so hard to find these days!
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers any chance of a video on passive XO, comparing linkwitz riley / Butterworth / etc. with math
Mus. Hmm, math doesn’t make for a very exciting video, but I will try and touch on the subject in related videos. I know people want to learn about phase, which is somewhat related.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers fantastic, yes phase is something that isn't discussed a lot but very important, so I'm looking forward to it.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers Another video idea. You go through various drivers and explain how to tell why one driver is better than an other and explain in which scenarios it will perform good vs bad.
My dream speaker, if ever get my act together enough is the OBL-15: www.troelsgravesen.dk/OBL-15.htm
No box, high efficiency is the way to go for life and immediacy in the sound.
My Friend. You started good and ended good. But the middle part was a bit weird.
I will agree on the B&C. Next.. something like BMS 12N810, then if you're really want a 5 way system something like Faital pro 6PR160 or BMS 5s117. And then viawave if you want a ribbon, or better off 18sound nsd1095n + seos wave guide. Now thats a system. And its not really expensive :)
AudioStatus good choices. Especially the SEOS waveguide! I wasn’t stuck on a 5 way, in fact it’s likely too many bandwidths. The mids might need to be put into one.
acctun drivers are just over priced and sound no better than any other high end metal cone driver. Facts are this high end paper cones sound the best and have come along way. I say scanspeak with the new magnets or the new satori drivers from sb acoustics would be way better.
Odin Coulombe that’s actually probably true. But I just have to hear it for myself, you know how it is :D
Another video 🎈✔✔ BUT.. You cant spend a lot because your wife will kill you?!!!!! wtf, i find it not good actually.
Way too many drivers. Not a good concept. imo, ribbon HF suck.
Viawave GRT145 реально круты!