Building Fast Tracks Turnouts for the UPRR Evanston Sub. Model Railroads in Action.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This video features a demonstration of building Fast Tracks Turnouts.
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I’ve only worked on part of these in an assembly line at a friend’s, so it’s good to see the whole process from start to finish.
Assembly line sounds interesting. How many people and how many could you do in an hour?
Brings back memories of you showing how it was done in N scale before an operating session on the old layout. I’ve been hand laying since!
Those were the days. When I'm done building turnouts for the Evanston Sub, I will have built over 230 Fast Tracks turnouts.
built mine with their jig in O scale. You spend most of your time filing 148 rail. Id actually put the filing fixture in my vice to file the rail it made it so much more easy.
Great advise. Thanks
I’m newer to this but I’ve done about 20 switches and a couple diamonds now. 2 thinks have made my life easier… I bought a bench sander and do most of the filing with it, just before the belt touches the jig and then finish with the hand file. And I bought a rail shaper off eBay. I cut my hands a few times curving rail and that was enough! Jigs cost too much for my budget so I just tape their paper templates on glass and build em up free hand.
Jigs can be sold after use for 60-80% of cost. So, they are not ready that expensive per turnout if you are building a bunch.
Incredibly helpful video and love the way you include your mistakes and narrative of corrections. Do you feel these operate better (more reliably) than say a Peco turnout does?
Yes, absolutely. Way, way better. Look better too.
Thanks for the video, I appreciate it. One of the things I wish fast tracks did better was showing how they wire and install their turnouts. They seem to just tell you how to assemble this stuff but don’t give any help or tips when installing them. Like where to wire the frog wire, where to attach other wires. Should I add them to the rail bottom, the side, or should I or can I solder the wires to the pc ties. Same with the bullfrog, how to actually install them. I’ve moved to another company though as the price is the same and I don’t need to deal with imperfections while assembling.
Surely there are TH-cam videos out there that cover those topics.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I would do anything to have the money and space for a hand laid track layout. Gorgeous work mate
Don't need money as hand laid is cheaper than purchased track.
WOW!! Just wow.
Thanks
I think the solder doesn't go under the rail because you heat it for a short time, I heat longer and the solder goes to the other side and tends to 'ball up' less. I use a bit of paper between the switch rail and stock rail to stop them being soldered together. I did hand build track for one layout, but it was only 10' long and 8 turnouts, doesn't quite compare and I haven't done it since!
Length of time does not help. Maybe hotter iron. Although I have used the iron recommended by fast tracks with no difference.
@@EvanstonSub I use a 50W iron, but a much larger bit which dumps the heat through faster, and at around 400ºC (752ºF). I was taught to use the largest bit that fits the job. I place the bit so it touches the rail and tie at the same time and the solder wicks under the rail in a few seconds. Maybe the jig is sinking the heat although I normally have metal gauges on the rails when I'm soldering.
You might want to try liquid flux. I've gone over to liquid flux as it is so much easier to use and clean up. Plus, it seems to go further under the rail, providing a significantly more robust joint.
Thanks for the tip. I'm sure my paste will last for my final turnouts for this layout. Maybe for the next one :)
Hi Daryl, Very informative. When I'm soldering (and I've never tried to handlay a turnout like this yet) everything gets pretty hot, are your fingers made of asbestos ? Plus do you ever have a previously soldered connection come unsoldered due to heat transfer along the rail ?
My fingers only got hot once, but not burned. Do not have any issues with previous joints.
Nice camera angle. Use a toothpick for the flux. A little less flux, a little more precision, less cleanup.
Never hand muck luck with a toothpick. Does not pick up much if any paste.
What is the total cost of turnouts all in, as far as rail, PCB ties, wood ties, all the jigs etc.? I am just curious if you know what the break-even point is between pre-made turn outs and making your own. In your case with the large volume of turn outs I'm sure you saved a LOT with the sweat equity. I am VERY interested in learning how to make hand-made turn outs, but just curious what the all-in cost would be for say 1 turnout with all of the stuff, then beyond that what is the cost of a 2nd turnout in just the rails, PCB ties, and ties. I'm sorry for the question, it is just something I have wondered about that I haven't come across discussion on.
Comes out to around $8-$9 per turnout.
@@EvanstonSub I appreciate you taking the time to respond, thank you!
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Did you have problems with the rail fitting? I'm having trouble getting my Atlas 83 to fit. Micro engineering most likely...mmmm. Also, are you using 70 for the whole railroad?
Atlas rail will not work. The base of the rail is too wide.
@@EvanstonSub yes, unfortunately I have come to that conclusion. Thanks for the confirmation.
Did you cut the copper tie tops so they don't short between the rails before installing?
I do that after they are installed.
How long did it take to build one number 8 turnout from start to finish?
about an hour.
I don't see the link for the pcb or wood ties? Can I assume you buy the rail from FT? Thank you!
Nope. Google Cloverhouse for the pc ties and proto87 for the wood ties.
Okay you have a cost for the gig, to buy a turnout, & about how long it takes to make the part in the gig. My question is what would you estimate the total cost to make one compete?
You really need to work out how many turnouts you want to build, then go to the fasttracks website and work out exactly what you need to buy then divide that by how many turnouts you need to get an overall cost. Those filling jigs aren't cheap, $70 each from memory. then the rail, PCB, timber sleepers(ties) or Quicksticks. there's also a jig you can buy to help solder the frog points. I would advise watching Tims videos on the fasttracks website as he takes you through the whole process step by step and explains each step. Well worth an hour of your time
My cost for rail and ties is $7-$8 per turnout. #10s cost a bit more than #8s.
Fast tracks also provides a pdf online you can make copies of and simply build over the paper - like a balsa airplane. Super inexpensive and probably good for a small 4 x 8 layout. That said, we can see the jigs are very helpful so if you are building down the wall, around the corner and over to the next room a jig is probably the way to go.
Do you ever have to gauge the switch after completion to make sure it is correct?
Little if any. The fixtures make sure everything is in gauge.
what do you use to attach the turnout to the wood ties, what adhesive?
Diluted white glue that is used during ballasting.
Why using code 70, not code 83. Look, better performance?
I use code 83 on the mainline and code 70 on secondary track. This follows prototype practices.
@@EvanstonSub OK. Thanks
You didn’t mention gapping the ties or cutting gaps in the rails to isolate the frog. It’s all a necessary part of the procedure.
I do that after they are installed.
Did you end up isolating the frog?
Yes, I cut gaps in all the PC ties and isolate the frog after I spike them in place.
Do you have to cut the pc ties
Yes, but it's not difficult. I use a rail cutter
I’ll stick to the old school way-it’s cheaper!
I need the help :)