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Thank you. It was because I’d seen your video about this a few days ago that I was already schooled on how to run this test on my e3v3se using the nebula smart kit. Dumb question, is there any benefit leaving the sensor on the print head or isn’t that something we worry about on a stock non rooted nebula pad?
well i have the cable... but its only usb C. it detects it but wont do anything. i cannot find the one with usb A on it. Only the usb C version alone. Where do you find the other one ? or is there a reason why i have the one with just usb C ?
well never mind that... just needed to reset the printer after connecting it. It was detecting it but wouldnt let me do the calibration. Now it is ! solution ! :P haha
the double sided tape you use. actually works as a vibration absorber. its not the best solution to use. better just tape it to the bed using some masking tape or gaffatape.
There is one for the bed also. You can only get the mount from the creality VIP site, and the mounting holes are hidden beneath the bed. At the time of this video, I didn't even know about it. But, I still don't think I'd use it.... Check it out: th-cam.com/users/shortsKbGQT64rGHg?feature=share
Thanks for the good video. Now I know how to use it. 👍 I bought the sensor today and i try it on the next Print. I dont think that it will do something, because i already have a great print quality and no problems with vibrations. Greatings from Germany
It *CAN* make a difference. Very much depends on many things, such as the table the printer is sitting on, differences in the hardware, fan vibrations, etc. But it's not something I can clearly show Better or Worse. It may not help at all, but, if having VBR issues and such, it can help.
Good video..just installed this and did the tests on my KE I recently got in January. Question, how often do you recommend doing these tests? Im assuming the settings from it are saved and arent lost when you power down the machine. I tend to run the xyz calibrations upon every startup.
Only again if you're dealing with a quality issue., or making hardware adjustments. I have yet to run it again on my CR6-Max or 5+ with the Sonic Pad. I've been troubleshooting my CR10-SE for a Z Banding issue. After messing with belts and such, I toss the sensor on. But, truth me told, we've been printing for ages without it, so, over using it is really not necessary. When your machine is behaving, don't give it any chance to screw up. No ABL leveling, no calibrations. Just Send it.
just a query. After the vibration calibration, do we need to attach the sensor at the head(printer) all the time or can we unplug the sensor and leave it in a drawer?
As I just bought 2, 3V3Plus printers, I'm watching a lot of videos in order to pick up tips and to learn their slicer. I WAS going to do the mod to Cura, but after seeing how poorly Cura prints to a Klipper machine, I decided not to. So in these videos, everyone is using an older version of Creality Print. When I see it, it's so much like Cura with its lovely "Edit" button (under the "Printer" window) then an obvious menu pops up that lists the categories along the left side, with the "Cura-styled" options to the right of that. LOVELY! But, here we are many months later and their newest version, while it works wonderfully on the 3V3Plus, the interface is HORRIBLE! Instead of having things LOGICALLY located, like the old version, they've gone to this bizarre idea of having things all over the place and so not logically laid out. Like you can find most settings under "Process" window to the right, but, for example, NOT all the heat settings!!!!! To get to those, you actually have to edit the filament just above "Object" and which is above "Process"! You have to go hunting and clicking to find things. It's insane! Someone in control at Creality seriously needs to examine their choices and just go back to a more user-friendly layout like they had before. So watching a great video like this and trying to follow the slicer stuff, is just impossible, because now, to find certain things, you have to go hunting for them. Sigh... And no, one just can't go back to an older version, because you're stuck trying to create a "new machine" for the 3V3Plus and good luck finding everything you need quickly. And I'm NOT going to Orca! I know it's "better" than CrealPrint, but as many have reported and commented on, it just randomly crashes. After about the 10th crash, I just said enough is enough. As a programmer, I HATE when other programmers code without being super careful of what they are doing and introduce problematic routines.
Creality Print 4 was an old version of Cura. Creality Print 5, is based on Orca. Orca is Fantastic. Orca has *NEVER* crashed on me. I use it every day. Most of my slicing, for Creality Clipper machines, I do on Bambu Studio. Bambu & Orca are mostly the same, so it's super convenient. CP5 is weird at 1st, but, you'll get used to it. I use it rarely, but, it's good to learn Multiple slicers. Sometimes, there are benefits between them. Learn CP5 with me here: th-cam.com/video/AdM3gNezCGk/w-d-xo.html
Now I understand what this G-Sensor is for. My machine didn't come with one and now I know why. It's built into the 3V3Plus. When the machine goes through calibration, it makes those exact high-intensity vibration sounds and movements. Thanks for clarifying that.
I Remove it. Highend machines, have them built into the hot ends, and can be run whenever, but, I'd take it off, and toss it back on if needed. Mostly up to you. DO NOT LEAVER THE CABLE ON.
I messed up and bought 2 sensors thinking they were active, good to know. I assume you'd only do this again if you change something on your printer or you move the printer to a new location which may vibrate more?
Hi, am I correct that it does not matter which orientation the sensor is when placed on the bed or on the hot end? I know it is placed flat on its bottom, but does it have to be oriented in a specific x or y direction? I ask because I have a small set of brackets that I printed, one that goes under the bed and one that sticks on the top of the hot end. When using those, the x/y direction is not aligned with the x/y direction of the printer bed. Thanks, Mark
Looks like shortly after this video the USB-A was removed from the Sensor. The option should show, even without the cable attached.... I believe it's been renamed
In my Members feed, I have provided the official Creality STL files for both HOT END, and the BED. To be a member, Click here: th-cam.com/channels/bUb8QjvZiimB-8sN6oDl9Q.htmljoin
@@3DRundown So after calibration this sensor doesn't make any effect if you're left mounted? I asked, and he told me, that Nebula actually checking always g sensor if he is mounted and decreases speed if the vibration is too big, but it's Gemini AI, still can't trust it. :)
I'm a retired Fortune 500 IT guy & network administrator, who operated a BBS via phone lines, predating the internet. Are you serious implying I don't know how the "Cloud Works" 🤦🏼♂️🤡
Do they sell a different cord? Mine came w one of the old mouse keyboard multipin connections. I wanted the USB/Type C USB cord. Where did you get the cord ?
Hi I’m wondering if this can be installed on the standard Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board. I’ve just bought this nebula kit, but there seems to be nowhere the mount the G-sensor. Do you have any advice for me please?
Mine is printing fine wit just changing the nozzle size in Creality Print (Tool, Manage printer, Extrusion 1), to 0.6 and adjusting the layer height accordingly, though I can't change the name of the profile, it still says 0.4 (Creality Print has some annoying bugs, I hope they'll make it better with some time). I changed to 0.6 because I use my KE for bigger parts in PLA and PETG as it's obviously built for high speed and volume. I have my modified (MicroSwiss direct drive extruder with full metal hotend, new version motherboard, Ikea Lack enclosure etc.) OG Ender 3 for small stuff and special materials where great speed is not needed. I use 0.35mm layer height with the 0.6mm nozzle, it really cuts down the print times and I find the difference in quality negligible, especially on larger prints. Might even try 0.8mm some day.
Thanks a lot ! Clear, short and precise content. I just have two questions about it ; - Once you've properly run the calibration, you don't need to keep the sensor on the machine, right ? I mean the cables makes it look like crap :') - Once the calibration done, is this what people call "input shaping" turned ON ? I'm very confused about input shaping honnestly.
So, once I'll have done the calibration with G-sensor like you did, input shaping will be automatically activated ? I don't have an option or anything else to enable ?@@3DRundown Thanks a lot
It seems short sighted that they didn't program the calibration for the printhead to test multiple locations along the Z axis. I'm sure the vibration gets more pronounced as it goes higher
Great video. So once you have done the calibration you don't need the sensor actively installed on the printer for every print? You keep it to do a recalibration every so often?
@@3DRundown Bugger I was just going to ask the same.....Especially after just buying 3x for my printers lol, oh well lucky they weren't to dear! cheers for the video
Is there a way to revert the calibration optimization? I ran calibration and my printer now suuuuuucks. It was printing great before, and I only went through this process because I thought this sensor was a permanent add-on to the machine (like an ongoing upgrade). Thank you!
Perhaps under SETTINGS: Input Shaping. I'd have to check. I'm sure there is a Klipper command for this. The sensor is run one time, then removed. You can run it again, anytime. If you don't like the results, you can attach it, and re-run it. How does your printer "suck" and are we sure the Sensor is the cause?
@@3DRundown I narrowed it down to the supports being hit while printing now. Prior to calibration, the support and model would print cleanly. I started hearing not-so-great noises on a few recent prints (that I ultimately stopped because it looked like top most layer was being hit by the nozzle). I will explore the settings option. If that doesn't work, will try running the calibration again. Thank you!
If i didnt see your videos, i would've let the G sensor sit on the hotend part we screw to it and think it was the good way to set this up +1 man, subscribed and liked !
Great instructions. I just purchased my V3 KE and it updated the firmware right away so I don't know if that's why mine's different or what. Where yours says, "Optimization of vibration veins," mine says "Input shaping." Also I purchased the Creality Ender 3 V3 KE G-Sensor ADXL34 and it does not have the standard USB for power. It must draw it's power from the USB-C as that was all it had.
Another cracking video mate, my new favorite channel :) I stopped using double sided tape when I found out about masking tape/CA/masking tape. I no longer want to spend 20 mins trying to strip the tape film..... I can't be the only one who has short nails, can't find the end, can't do it without peeling the whole thing off!
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a TH-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
Funny you ask. I've debated making a video on this. It will pause the print, and "display a foreign item detected" if something is on the bed, or, something different if it doesn't like the 1st layer. I don't recall what it says.
Thank you for that :) I will admit, when you said I recommend the tape I said "na! I know what I am doing! screws go in" then.....I learnt a valuable lesson 🤣Got it all set up though so thank you!!
I also have KE and bought the G-Senor (but with the PS/2 Cable for Sonic), as at my location its the only one available. Can anyone help me with the schematics/pinout-diagram to create the USB-C and USB-A connectors for the G sensor module? If its available I can make one myself.
@@3DRundown Can this same thing be done on ender 3 v3 se? just got the Nebula smart kit and it has this cable but not sure if compatible since very little documentation in instructions. Have only seen the KE shown Also a newbie but loving it so far. Thanks for the videos
Amazing video! Good and very clear instructions! Would you recommend an ender 3 KE? I print parts that need relatively good quality, dont need amazing quality but close.
I have my printer in an enclosure which made this even more challenging as I had to mount the bracket to the hot end pretty much blind. The screws I received were not long enough to hold the sensor to the hot end bracket, so I went with double sided tape and then since I only received one set of screws to hold the brackets in place I went with double sided tape on the print bed for the y-axis calibration. You mention that you could use tape to mount the sensor to the hot end instead of the bracket. Where would you place the sensor if you did this? Would you just use double sided tape to stick it to the top of the hot end case? Thanks
Thank you for the video. A small question, in my case I root my printer in order to use orca slicer and then I used the G-sensor to calibrate input shaping . Do input shaping will work automatically or need to do something else in orca slicer?
I'm stock and also working with Orca. I send all my prints via Creality Cloud. After running the g sensor tests at the Nebula, I *BELIEVE* you are goos to go.
I am disciplined to stick carefully to the topic, as people who already own the sensor, will be looking for instruction on how to use it. The WHY, would need to be a separate video. Viewer retention on TH-cam is very short, and very difficult to obtain. The short answer is, use it ONCE, and only use it again, if you feel a need, or make a physical adjustment to the printer. I've run mine exactly one time.
Nah. I'm good. I'm one person, shooting in a 4x6 basement nook, and editing by myself. If there are noises. We'll all live. Also, the "noise" you are referring to, is the machines cooling fans.
I got this printer for my birthday (well i ordered it on my birthday Feb 14, it arrived later) I'm about to order the nebula camera and the sensor. I'm totally new to 3d printing. The 2 devices are very cheap, I'm just curious if you think they are worth getting for a beginner like me. I would hate for them to go out of print later and not be able to get them.
Heya my dude! Thank yoy for the video. Was hooing to follow it but creality sent me the sonoc pad kit insteas of the cable for the nebula. Did you get the g sensor cable in the kit or with the printer? Thank you for your coverage on this printer
just wondering why you chose not to use the G sensor brackets available on the Creality VIP website? Also, why use the double-sided tape when there is a y-axis mount you can print.
Because I didn't know about either at the time of this video. Both are available on my One Drive, for members. Tape is easier and works. I've done tape for all my other machines. I think center of the bed makes more sense
@@3DRundown Im talk about a adapter plugged, but sorry i dont know. Im keep trying cancel, but que seller(orange 's') not anwser... This is a upgrade or a 'recall'? The printer works fine without one, similiar to s1? "Parábens pelo canal e pela dedicação. Não se vê esse tipo de atenção no Brasil..."
I worked allot on it and was able to make a ton of progress, but didn't get it where I'd like it. I also realized I did all my testing on the same filament. I did one test on another filament, and the results were decent. I need to mess with it a bit more.
Not the first video of yours I've found useful. Thanks. Also I was able to locate bed bracket position. There are two screw holes on the metal part on the right side of the bed, close to the big screw that is holding the bed.
Ah, JUST the cable. Not sure. Sources for this sensor have been limited. Hopefully it will improve as more smart kits get out in the wild. I'll ask Creality
I was on the Creality site using their chat to ask how to install this sensor on my KE and they sent me here, because apparently there are no official instructions. They should to write you a check! I hope Creality is at least sending you free hardware as a "thank you".
Creality does lean on me quite a bit, and, no, I've never been given a single dollar, but, Creality are very kind to me, and, they do send me stuff. While free printers, don't help me eat, or pay my electric bill, they do help greatly, with this channel. Creality has been very vocally appreciative of my hard work with their products, and, I appreciate that allot. In comparison, for example, Bambu Lab, has yet to even respond to a single communication of mine, even once.... So, I am thankful for my relationship with Creality, and honored to be able to help them, and their userbase, succeed. :) YT Membership, Patreon, and SUPER THANKS, are very very helpful, in keeping me able, to do this.
I'm in the process of moving from a "Ender3 Pro" to the "Ender3 V3 KE", and in the week I've had it it's brought new problems... My E3 Pro is pretty much stock, with the v4.2.2 mainboard as original from 2021, and tuned in for near perfect prints, I'd calibrated the XYZ and extruder steps so it always printed to within 0.2mm (sometimes less with some prints), I kept up the maintenance, the bed guide was always tight so I had no wobble, the belts tensioned, and until a few weeks ago it was still on v1.0.0 of the firmware, it's now on v2.1.2.2 and is perfect. It didn't really need a vibration compensation device because it prints slow and has slow acceleration. I rarely had print failures which were nearly always caused by a dirty bed, and I printed with a nozzle of 0.2mm, so it was even slower! But the quality was amazing! The move to the KE has brought problems I'm having to compensate for. It can print nearly x5 faster, that means a LOT of XYZ acceleration and decelleration, the stock 'Y' guide bars are worse than the extrusion roller runners of the Pro, they are cheap, not adjustable and of sub-quality tollorances, so I'm upgrading them to linear rails. I've already purchased the XYZ calibration compensator which I'm about to fit having just printed the bracket. The side supports vibrate and rock when the head and bed move because the machine moves the head and bed so fast and abruptily, so I'll be bracing them soon, in effect, you do need to calibrate for the vibration as the machine isn't sturdy enough for the speed it is capible off, especially at heighter print heights where the effect is amplified. I will get the KE tuned in, just as I did the Pro, and right out the box the KE is a good printer, but it needs attention that should've been attended to in pre-production, I'd far sooner they added £30 to the price of supports and rails then me having to do it, but this is what it's all about and why these printers are only £230... They need us tinkerers to perfect them.
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You did the test wrong, you are supposed to attach the sensor to the bed with a second bracket from Creality, not just set it on top
I was under the impression this sensor was for ACTIVE vibration compensation until I saw this video, thank you.
Thank you. It was because I’d seen your video about this a few days ago that I was already schooled on how to run this test on my e3v3se using the nebula smart kit.
Dumb question, is there any benefit leaving the sensor on the print head or isn’t that something we worry about on a stock non rooted nebula pad?
There is no benefit at all. If it's the only machine you plan to use it on, you can pop the cable off and keep the sensor on
well i have the cable... but its only usb C. it detects it but wont do anything. i cannot find the one with usb A on it. Only the usb C version alone. Where do you find the other one ? or is there a reason why i have the one with just usb C ?
well never mind that... just needed to reset the printer after connecting it. It was detecting it but wouldnt let me do the calibration. Now it is ! solution ! :P haha
Yes, since this video, after some communication with Creality, it was determined the A isn't needed, and the newer cable is only USB-C
the double sided tape you use. actually works as a vibration absorber. its not the best solution to use. better just tape it to the bed using some masking tape or gaffatape.
Meh, works fine for me. There is a mount you can screw on if you prefer
@@3DRundown not for the bed though you only showed one for the hot end but either way your video is insanely helpful
There is one for the bed also. You can only get the mount from the creality VIP site, and the mounting holes are hidden beneath the bed. At the time of this video, I didn't even know about it. But, I still don't think I'd use it.... Check it out: th-cam.com/users/shortsKbGQT64rGHg?feature=share
Unless the double sided tape used had any thickness beyond 1/32", I think it's fine.
@3DRundown if you worry about too much adhesion, head to Harbor Freight, they have some 10 minute usage double sided tape for cheap. Hahahaha.
Thanks for the good video. Now I know how to use it. 👍
I bought the sensor today and i try it on the next Print. I dont think that it will do something, because i already have a great print quality and no problems with vibrations.
Greatings from Germany
Can you do a video on the print qualities with and without the sensor?? does it make a difference???
It *CAN* make a difference. Very much depends on many things, such as the table the printer is sitting on, differences in the hardware, fan vibrations, etc. But it's not something I can clearly show Better or Worse. It may not help at all, but, if having VBR issues and such, it can help.
So its not permanently attached? Just plugged in for the test and then i can remove it?
Bingo
Good video..just installed this and did the tests on my KE I recently got in January.
Question, how often do you recommend doing these tests? Im assuming the settings from it are saved and arent lost when you power down the machine.
I tend to run the xyz calibrations upon every startup.
Only again if you're dealing with a quality issue., or making hardware adjustments. I have yet to run it again on my CR6-Max or 5+ with the Sonic Pad. I've been troubleshooting my CR10-SE for a Z Banding issue. After messing with belts and such, I toss the sensor on. But, truth me told, we've been printing for ages without it, so, over using it is really not necessary. When your machine is behaving, don't give it any chance to screw up. No ABL leveling, no calibrations. Just Send it.
just a query. After the vibration calibration, do we need to attach the sensor at the head(printer) all the time or can we unplug the sensor and leave it in a drawer?
Remove it.
Thank you for this video! How often would you have to recalibrate for vibration compensation?
Only if you see a need, or physically adjust the machine.
As I just bought 2, 3V3Plus printers, I'm watching a lot of videos in order to pick up tips and to learn their slicer. I WAS going to do the mod to Cura, but after seeing how poorly Cura prints to a Klipper machine, I decided not to.
So in these videos, everyone is using an older version of Creality Print.
When I see it, it's so much like Cura with its lovely "Edit" button (under the "Printer" window) then an obvious menu pops up that lists the categories along the left side, with the "Cura-styled" options to the right of that. LOVELY!
But, here we are many months later and their newest version, while it works wonderfully on the 3V3Plus, the interface is HORRIBLE!
Instead of having things LOGICALLY located, like the old version, they've gone to this bizarre idea of having things all over the place and so not logically laid out.
Like you can find most settings under "Process" window to the right, but, for example, NOT all the heat settings!!!!!
To get to those, you actually have to edit the filament just above "Object" and which is above "Process"!
You have to go hunting and clicking to find things. It's insane! Someone in control at Creality seriously needs to examine their choices and just go back to a more user-friendly layout like they had before.
So watching a great video like this and trying to follow the slicer stuff, is just impossible, because now, to find certain things, you have to go hunting for them.
Sigh...
And no, one just can't go back to an older version, because you're stuck trying to create a "new machine" for the 3V3Plus and good luck finding everything you need quickly.
And I'm NOT going to Orca! I know it's "better" than CrealPrint, but as many have reported and commented on, it just randomly crashes. After about the 10th crash, I just said enough is enough.
As a programmer, I HATE when other programmers code without being super careful of what they are doing and introduce problematic routines.
Creality Print 4 was an old version of Cura. Creality Print 5, is based on Orca. Orca is Fantastic. Orca has *NEVER* crashed on me. I use it every day. Most of my slicing, for Creality Clipper machines, I do on Bambu Studio. Bambu & Orca are mostly the same, so it's super convenient. CP5 is weird at 1st, but, you'll get used to it. I use it rarely, but, it's good to learn Multiple slicers. Sometimes, there are benefits between them. Learn CP5 with me here: th-cam.com/video/AdM3gNezCGk/w-d-xo.html
Now I understand what this G-Sensor is for. My machine didn't come with one and now I know why.
It's built into the 3V3Plus. When the machine goes through calibration, it makes those exact high-intensity vibration sounds and movements.
Thanks for clarifying that.
Yes. Same with the CR-10se, and the K1 series.
Hello ! Thx for the video ! Do you let the sensor in place near the hotend after the calibration ?
I Remove it. Highend machines, have them built into the hot ends, and can be run whenever, but, I'd take it off, and toss it back on if needed. Mostly up to you. DO NOT LEAVER THE CABLE ON.
I messed up and bought 2 sensors thinking they were active, good to know. I assume you'd only do this again if you change something on your printer or you move the printer to a new location which may vibrate more?
🎯
Hi, am I correct that it does not matter which orientation the sensor is when placed on the bed or on the hot end? I know it is placed flat on its bottom, but does it have to be oriented in a specific x or y direction? I ask because I have a small set of brackets that I printed, one that goes under the bed and one that sticks on the top of the hot end. When using those, the x/y direction is not aligned with the x/y direction of the printer bed.
Thanks,
Mark
I don't believe so.
@@3DRundown so orientation does matter ?
do i leave the sensor connected after calibration??
No. You can put it away
Great video! I was quite baffled by the lack of instructions for this.
There is actually a SECOND mount-model, apparently for the Y-axis, but I have NO clue how and where to mount it.
I got you!
Hidden Nebula G Sensor Bracket Mount, on Creality Ender 3 V3 KE
th-cam.com/users/shortsKbGQT64rGHg?feature=share
Hhmmmm, my sensor didnt come with the USB a plug, just the usb c, and sure enough the vibration test doesnt come up un the menu. What gives!?
Looks like shortly after this video the USB-A was removed from the Sensor. The option should show, even without the cable attached.... I believe it's been renamed
Thank you for the video. Have been wondering how the bracket mounts to the hot-end. Now I know form your video.
Very welcome. It's weird how tricky it is to find the mount holes, and the mount itself.
In my Members feed, I have provided the official Creality STL files for both HOT END, and the BED.
To be a member, Click here: th-cam.com/channels/bUb8QjvZiimB-8sN6oDl9Q.htmljoin
After the calibration is done do you remove the sensor off the machine or do you keep it mounted on the hotend or bedplate? thx great video.
Remove. 👍🏼
@@3DRundown So after calibration this sensor doesn't make any effect if you're left mounted? I asked, and he told me, that Nebula actually checking always g sensor if he is mounted and decreases speed if the vibration is too big, but it's Gemini AI, still can't trust it. :)
my sensor it's the same by creality but it has only one usb c connection. Do I have to keep it installed during printings ?
Looks like newer sensors are this way. Remove it after run calibrations
TIP !!! USE COMAND HOOK STRIPS. They peal off easier.
Anything you've got, that sticks. 👍🏼However, I now know there is a mount on the bed for it, but, I'd probs still just stick it to the bed anyways.
so it was unclear to me, after the cal is complete do you remove the sensor just keep it plugged?
Remove it
One thing is not clear for me - should I stick this sensor there forewer or it's something that I should use once per certain amount of time?
USE IT, then remove it. Don't use it again, unless you make a physical change to the printer, or are troubleshooting a print quality issue.
You do realize, the "Cloud" is simply someone else's computer..
I'm a retired Fortune 500 IT guy & network administrator, who operated a BBS via phone lines, predating the internet. Are you serious implying I don't know how the "Cloud Works" 🤦🏼♂️🤡
main question is: how to pinout and connect ADXL345 to nebula pad
Apologies. I'm not sure on this
This is not needed. I tried it, and if it was creality should include it in the machine. Cash grab
Hahahahahhahaha Wut
Theres 2 screwholes on the underside of the bed for a vibration sensor, no tape required
This one.. 😉 Hidden Nebula G Sensor Bracket Mount, on Creality Ender 3 V3 KE
th-cam.com/users/shortsKbGQT64rGHg?feature=share
Do they sell a different cord?
Mine came w one of the old mouse keyboard multipin connections.
I wanted the USB/Type C USB cord.
Where did you get the cord ?
Crap, you got the SONIC PAD cable. My cable came with the sensor, in my Smart Kit. Grab the sensor linked in my Description.
Official Hot End and Bed Mount, now available to my Members and Patreons
Hi I’m wondering if this can be installed on the standard Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board. I’ve just bought this nebula kit, but there seems to be nowhere the mount the G-sensor. Do you have any advice for me please?
No need for a mount. Stick it on with some double sided tape
Вам надо экран покупать как на ender 3 v3 ke или у вас уже есть klipper?
should you remove the bracket when done or just leave it there?
I'd leave it. But remove the sensor itself
Would you do a video on how to do a profile for a 0.6mm nozzle? Thanks
I can try. Not a fan of 0.6, but, I'll see if I can give it a go
Mine is printing fine wit just changing the nozzle size in Creality Print (Tool, Manage printer, Extrusion 1), to 0.6 and adjusting the layer height accordingly, though I can't change the name of the profile, it still says 0.4 (Creality Print has some annoying bugs, I hope they'll make it better with some time). I changed to 0.6 because I use my KE for bigger parts in PLA and PETG as it's obviously built for high speed and volume. I have my modified (MicroSwiss direct drive extruder with full metal hotend, new version motherboard, Ikea Lack enclosure etc.) OG Ender 3 for small stuff and special materials where great speed is not needed. I use 0.35mm layer height with the 0.6mm nozzle, it really cuts down the print times and I find the difference in quality negligible, especially on larger prints. Might even try 0.8mm some day.
Does the tape not interfere with the vibration measurement?
I've never seen any real evidence of that, but you could use the mount holes under the front left of the bed
Hey ma. How do I go about adding vibration compensation to my ender 3? What do I need to start upgrading first?
Man*
😂😂
I really wouldn't bother for an Ender 3.
Wao!!! Muy buen video, lo tuve que ver traducido pero es muy completo, me encanta tu contenido, es de muchísima ayuda, gracias!
Thanks a lot ! Clear, short and precise content. I just have two questions about it ;
- Once you've properly run the calibration, you don't need to keep the sensor on the machine, right ? I mean the cables makes it look like crap :')
- Once the calibration done, is this what people call "input shaping" turned ON ? I'm very confused about input shaping honnestly.
Yep. Use it and remove it.
Input shaping, in simplest terms, the machine will study it's vibrations, and make adjustments to compensate for them.
So, once I'll have done the calibration with G-sensor like you did, input shaping will be automatically activated ? I don't have an option or anything else to enable ?@@3DRundown Thanks a lot
Yes.
Great stuff buddy
It seems short sighted that they didn't program the calibration for the printhead to test multiple locations along the Z axis. I'm sure the vibration gets more pronounced as it goes higher
Great video. So once you have done the calibration you don't need the sensor actively installed on the printer for every print? You keep it to do a recalibration every so often?
Bingo
@@3DRundown Bugger I was just going to ask the same.....Especially after just buying 3x for my printers lol, oh well lucky they weren't to dear! cheers for the video
This is not for sonic pad?
Yes. Sonic pad also uses the G-Sensor
Thanks, makes a lot of sense now!
After the calibration, doni need to keep it installed and plugged in or can i unplug it an take it out??
Remove it
@@3DRundown thanks, just got mine today! by the way the g sensor i got had type-C connector, going to the back of the screen!
Yes, that's how it should be. USB-C in the back, USB-A to power it. *it may run without the USB-A*
th-cam.com/video/sR8cW45J8Cg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qrD_Y5sGcwzsXt7d&t=255
Mine had no usb a, just the USB-C 😅
Is there a way to revert the calibration optimization? I ran calibration and my printer now suuuuuucks. It was printing great before, and I only went through this process because I thought this sensor was a permanent add-on to the machine (like an ongoing upgrade). Thank you!
Perhaps under SETTINGS: Input Shaping. I'd have to check. I'm sure there is a Klipper command for this. The sensor is run one time, then removed. You can run it again, anytime. If you don't like the results, you can attach it, and re-run it. How does your printer "suck" and are we sure the Sensor is the cause?
@@3DRundown I narrowed it down to the supports being hit while printing now. Prior to calibration, the support and model would print cleanly. I started hearing not-so-great noises on a few recent prints (that I ultimately stopped because it looked like top most layer was being hit by the nozzle). I will explore the settings option. If that doesn't work, will try running the calibration again. Thank you!
I factory reset the printer and it's all good now!
I was hesitant to send you that route, but, that's what I would do. Great to hear!
If i didnt see your videos, i would've let the G sensor sit on the hotend part we screw to it and think it was the good way to set this up +1 man, subscribed and liked !
Do you think nema 17 stepper dampers will fit on the ender 3 v3 ke? Especially the x and y axis
I'm not sure..
Mine does not have an optimization of vibration veins option
It's been renamed in a recent update
@@3DRundown I figured that out since. Thank you.
Great instructions. I just purchased my V3 KE and it updated the firmware right away so I don't know if that's why mine's different or what.
Where yours says, "Optimization of vibration veins," mine says "Input shaping."
Also I purchased the Creality Ender 3 V3 KE G-Sensor ADXL34 and it does not have the standard USB for power. It must draw it's power from the USB-C as that was all it had.
Hi. Yes, the Sensor and Firmware have both been updates since my build
Another cracking video mate, my new favorite channel :)
I stopped using double sided tape when I found out about masking tape/CA/masking tape. I no longer want to spend 20 mins trying to strip the tape film..... I can't be the only one who has short nails, can't find the end, can't do it without peeling the whole thing off!
OMG, if you only knew how long it takes me to peal that flippin' tape!! 🤣😂 I hate it.... Also, Thank you! Welcome to the party. :)
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Strange but where is an example of what happens if the sensor detects something that has gone wrong? Question=Newbie
Funny you ask. I've debated making a video on this. It will pause the print, and "display a foreign item detected" if something is on the bed, or, something different if it doesn't like the 1st layer. I don't recall what it says.
Thank you for that :) I will admit, when you said I recommend the tape I said "na! I know what I am doing! screws go in" then.....I learnt a valuable lesson 🤣Got it all set up though so thank you!!
I can lead a horse to water....
Hello from Brasil! I buy for mistake the sensor, but connector is for PAD. Have any adaptor or way for make this work? Thanks
I would grab the USB-C sensor instead
I also have KE and bought the G-Senor (but with the PS/2 Cable for Sonic), as at my location its the only one available.
Can anyone help me with the schematics/pinout-diagram to create the USB-C and USB-A connectors for the G sensor module? If its available I can make one myself.
I have not seen this done yet. Best bet would be to gran the right cable on Amazon or Aliexpress.
Thanks! I bought an ender 3 v3 se and just upgraded to the Nebula kit. This is all new to me.
What a fantastic machine to start on! You'll love it.
@@3DRundown Can this same thing be done on ender 3 v3 se? just got the Nebula smart kit and it has this cable but not sure if compatible since very little documentation in instructions. Have only seen the KE shown Also a newbie but loving it so far. Thanks for the videos
I am new to this topic. The sensor is removed or left in the holder. Or calibration is only done occasionally
@@sirsit0 +1
Amazing video! Good and very clear instructions! Would you recommend an ender 3 KE? I print parts that need relatively good quality, dont need amazing quality but close.
If I had my choice, it would be any of the K1's > a V3 > a V3 KE.
@@3DRundown Thanks for the reply, ok then I will buy a KE when it is time to make an upgrade.
love your tutorials thx alot
Welcome friend. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I have my printer in an enclosure which made this even more challenging as I had to mount the bracket to the hot end pretty much blind. The screws I received were not long enough to hold the sensor to the hot end bracket, so I went with double sided tape and then since I only received one set of screws to hold the brackets in place I went with double sided tape on the print bed for the y-axis calibration. You mention that you could use tape to mount the sensor to the hot end instead of the bracket. Where would you place the sensor if you did this? Would you just use double sided tape to stick it to the top of the hot end case? Thanks
For my CR6-Max and 5+ I did indeed just tape it to the top. The rear mount is an odd design choice
Thank you for the video. A small question, in my case I root my printer in order to use orca slicer and then I used the G-sensor to calibrate input shaping . Do input shaping will work automatically or need to do something else in orca slicer?
I'm stock and also working with Orca. I send all my prints via Creality Cloud. After running the g sensor tests at the Nebula, I *BELIEVE* you are goos to go.
@@3DRundown thank you!
I think it woild be helpful to explain the benefits of this, how often to do this if it needs to be repeated, or if you noticed any difference.
I am disciplined to stick carefully to the topic, as people who already own the sensor, will be looking for instruction on how to use it. The WHY, would need to be a separate video. Viewer retention on TH-cam is very short, and very difficult to obtain. The short answer is, use it ONCE, and only use it again, if you feel a need, or make a physical adjustment to the printer. I've run mine exactly one time.
mate your camera is fricking good! but you need to tuning your sound a bit so its doesnt have noise. good video, to the point!
Nah. I'm good. I'm one person, shooting in a 4x6 basement nook, and editing by myself. If there are noises. We'll all live. Also, the "noise" you are referring to, is the machines cooling fans.
x8 was a little overkill.. m3x4 is more than enough :D
Likely! 😂
I clicked the link you attached for the sensor but where did you find the cable?
It doesn't show it, but, from what I've read in reviews and such, it includes the cable.
Hey bro, have you tried the "creality laser module" in this KE?
I have not. I would honestly stick to a dedicate Laser machine.
Straaange, just got the sensor and there are only type-c connector..
Weird, second one to say that this week.
@@3DRundown well, it works)
I feel like the extra 5V of the USB-A isn't needed. Perhaps they came to the same conclusion, and updated the cable. Does your Manual show the USB-A?
@@3DRundownmanual shows one cable which looks like type-a to g-sensor. Suppose they just did not found type-c connector image
It is most definitely weird that Creality doesn’t include the mount just to save a dollar or so
I got this printer for my birthday (well i ordered it on my birthday Feb 14, it arrived later) I'm about to order the nebula camera and the sensor. I'm totally new to 3d printing. The 2 devices are very cheap, I'm just curious if you think they are worth getting for a beginner like me. I would hate for them to go out of print later and not be able to get them.
Sure. Nebula is easy to work with, and while you could be fine without the gsensor, it's affordable, and worth having
@@3DRundownThanks for the help, I'll order them now.
Is it ok to use a 5v adapter for power instead of using a port?
Yup. Should be ok.
Tell me where to buy a cable for a nebula pad. or its name
It's linked in the desc
Heya my dude!
Thank yoy for the video. Was hooing to follow it but creality sent me the sonoc pad kit insteas of the cable for the nebula. Did you get the g sensor cable in the kit or with the printer?
Thank you for your coverage on this printer
Hi, my sensor came with the Nebula Smart Kit. I also bought one.
Get the G Sensor: amzn.to/3S4xNIl
Get the G Sensor here: amzn.to/3w2cfoA
just wondering why you chose not to use the G sensor brackets available on the Creality VIP website? Also, why use the double-sided tape when there is a y-axis mount you can print.
Because I didn't know about either at the time of this video. Both are available on my One Drive, for members. Tape is easier and works. I've done tape for all my other machines. I think center of the bed makes more sense
@@3DRundown can I suggest adding a link to an M3 screw kit on Amazon, it's useful to have these things kicking around and it's only like $10
Anyone know how to set up sensor on guppy screen??
I do not. Have not tried Guppy
A ps/2 to ubs works?
Unlikely. Will it deliver 5v?
@@3DRundown Im talk about a adapter plugged, but sorry i dont know.
Im keep trying cancel, but que seller(orange 's') not anwser...
This is a upgrade or a 'recall'?
The printer works fine without one, similiar to s1?
"Parábens pelo canal e pela dedicação. Não se vê esse tipo de atenção no Brasil..."
I would get the proper cable. You don't HAVE TO USE IT, but it can be helpful, especially for higher speeds
@@3DRundownThanks... I already purchase one, but with 'pines' conector and dont find only cable for sell... See you
Hello, I saw on a post you did in the community that you were suffering from z-banding in the CR-10 SE. Were you able to solve it?
I worked allot on it and was able to make a ton of progress, but didn't get it where I'd like it. I also realized I did all my testing on the same filament. I did one test on another filament, and the results were decent. I need to mess with it a bit more.
@@3DRundown Thanks for the reply. Please post an update if you are able to fix it.
Would that print out work for the v3 se?
I don't think so. check this out: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6262367
can that be used on the cr-10 se??
Yes. Same Nebula pad
Great video my man!
THANK YOU. Means allot!
Not the first video of yours I've found useful. Thanks. Also I was able to locate bed bracket position. There are two screw holes on the metal part on the right side of the bed, close to the big screw that is holding the bed.
Hidden Nebula G Sensor Bracket Mount, on Creality Ender 3 V3 KE
th-cam.com/users/shortsKbGQT64rGHg?feature=share
@@3DRundown Nice. I don't watch shorts so i didn't see this video :) Now people will be able to find it.
I use shorts as a way to check in with my peeps, and share little tidbits that come to mind. :)
Can you post the link where you got the sensor kit from?
I am struggling to find a good source... Mine came with the Nebula Smart Kit.
amzn.to/3S4xNIl
Thanks for the video
Can you send me the link of the cable of the g sensor I can't find it anywhere
It's linked in the desc
I already have a sensor can I get the cable separately
Ah, JUST the cable. Not sure. Sources for this sensor have been limited. Hopefully it will improve as more smart kits get out in the wild. I'll ask Creality
Video has no audio for me
Audio is working. Try again?
@@3DRundown yep fixed
I was on the Creality site using their chat to ask how to install this sensor on my KE and they sent me here, because apparently there are no official instructions. They should to write you a check! I hope Creality is at least sending you free hardware as a "thank you".
Creality does lean on me quite a bit, and, no, I've never been given a single dollar, but, Creality are very kind to me, and, they do send me stuff. While free printers, don't help me eat, or pay my electric bill, they do help greatly, with this channel. Creality has been very vocally appreciative of my hard work with their products, and, I appreciate that allot. In comparison, for example, Bambu Lab, has yet to even respond to a single communication of mine, even once.... So, I am thankful for my relationship with Creality, and honored to be able to help them, and their userbase, succeed. :)
YT Membership, Patreon, and SUPER THANKS, are very very helpful, in keeping me able, to do this.
New source for the G Sensor, cheaper: amzn.to/3w2cfoA
I'm in the process of moving from a "Ender3 Pro" to the "Ender3 V3 KE", and in the week I've had it it's brought new problems...
My E3 Pro is pretty much stock, with the v4.2.2 mainboard as original from 2021, and tuned in for near perfect prints, I'd calibrated the XYZ and extruder steps so it always printed to within 0.2mm (sometimes less with some prints), I kept up the maintenance, the bed guide was always tight so I had no wobble, the belts tensioned, and until a few weeks ago it was still on v1.0.0 of the firmware, it's now on v2.1.2.2 and is perfect. It didn't really need a vibration compensation device because it prints slow and has slow acceleration. I rarely had print failures which were nearly always caused by a dirty bed, and I printed with a nozzle of 0.2mm, so it was even slower! But the quality was amazing!
The move to the KE has brought problems I'm having to compensate for. It can print nearly x5 faster, that means a LOT of XYZ acceleration and decelleration, the stock 'Y' guide bars are worse than the extrusion roller runners of the Pro, they are cheap, not adjustable and of sub-quality tollorances, so I'm upgrading them to linear rails. I've already purchased the XYZ calibration compensator which I'm about to fit having just printed the bracket. The side supports vibrate and rock when the head and bed move because the machine moves the head and bed so fast and abruptily, so I'll be bracing them soon, in effect, you do need to calibrate for the vibration as the machine isn't sturdy enough for the speed it is capible off, especially at heighter print heights where the effect is amplified.
I will get the KE tuned in, just as I did the Pro, and right out the box the KE is a good printer, but it needs attention that should've been attended to in pre-production, I'd far sooner they added £30 to the price of supports and rails then me having to do it, but this is what it's all about and why these printers are only £230... They need us tinkerers to perfect them.