Thanks bro I really appreciate it. The mids and highs are actually turned down. I have the mids and highs turned down to - 4db on the radio settings. It's pioneer radio in network mode. So I can adjust each tweeter and mid individually using the radio. Appreciate your comment 💯
@@getmoneyandbitches it's actually turn down on the amp also. I like to play my radio at full volume so i get max wattage out my bass amp without my ears ringing when im done driving somewhere. I'll try to do a distance demo video of the mids and highs. I'll turn it all up to the proper gain settings and 0 out the mids and highs on radio. Thanks again 👍
Thanks man 😁 I have no sound deading so it rattles everything. I think the subs have actually broken a few things. my rear view mirror and passenger side mirror. The passenger taillight rattles now also. They rattle with no music on
@@Silentjustin06 make sure you're consistently checking your ground and power connections. They will loosen up over time. I try to check mine every week. I've had terminals come all the way off just flapping around in the back.
@@gregdragoo4777 yeah that wouldn't be good. The way my amps are mounted and the way my wires are ran. It would be highly unlikely for the wires to come out. Even if the set screws were to fall out. It's good advice so I'll check them periodically. Thanks for your advice.
@@gregdragoo4777 Not yet, been thinking of building my own lithium battery. Much cheaper that way. im on stock alternator with 2 XS POWER batteries. I'm still on 4 guage wire also. I haven't completely done the big 3 yet. I've done the grounds but not the power wire for the alternator. When I decide to change my alternator I'll complete the big 3. With all these limitations of my electrical. I stay above 13.2 most of the time.
Now the annoying part fixing all the shit you rattle loose. Sunvisors, rear view, sunglass holder are always 1st to go. Then it's tail lights, dash lights right before alt crashes.
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 Been chasing rattles my whole life. Just to sell the car and start over. Secret it's to dynomat before you buy a system. I glue my sunvisors and sunglass holders in place so they don't break.
@SilentJustin06 No shyt. People only know what they see on the internet. Every week my car develops a new rattle I have to find. At some point you just live with it when you bump hard. Cause nothing helps.
Those qbomb horn boxes are sick I use the single 10 horn box and my only complain is the 12 is the same size and Tuning Frequency 30 hz 2 cubic ft just a bigger cut out
@@jameskidd61 yeah I've have several Qbomb boxes. I have a square □ side port for a SKAR EVL 8 INCH. I have a square □ side port 12 inch with a ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH P3D2. I had a dual 12 inch qbomb with just the skinny slot port in the middle. Thats probably the worst one I've had. The horn port is definitely the best Q bomb box I've had
@@Silentjustin06 go look at subbox pro and make your own. home Depot has mdf 4x8x.75 50 a sheet get 2. You can even have them cut it to size if you trust strangers with your wood lol....... go buy a 6" aeroport. try to get one 20+" long so you can cut it down if you need. Glue screws and a drill.. might cost you 200 the first time. Worth every penny qboom will always be subpar pre fabed boxes. I had a 12 cube box with 4 pa cheapy 10s. Tuned at 23 hz. Didnt have it for more than a month or two. guy at work paid me 800 for it. It only cost me 450 max lol. Go build it man it's easy as fuck
If your asking that question I assume your new to the car audio. Do yourself a favor and read up on the basics to building and tuning amps. It will really pay off in the end. But yes, gains adjusted correctly and box to spec you should be good.
@@earlmullet7628 I would like to say you are completely right about educating himself on tuning amps and just car audio equipment in general. There are many factors that can blow his speaker very quickly if they aren't taken into consideration. Even if he had a SMD DD1 to tune his amp gains and a box that is spec for them subwoofer Doesn't mean he still can't blow them subwoofer. Not all music is recorded equal. Even if he uses a SMD DD1 with a 40hz test tone to set the gain on the amp. If he plays anything that's been bass boosted. He could still clip the shit out of the subwoofers and blow them.
@@earlmullet7628 for example I have playlist of demo songs I play. Most of them will not clip if volume is played at 35 of 40 on my radio. The Kevin Gates song (love bug) clips very badly at volume 35 but is ok at volume 31 of 40. So I adjust my amp gain by using the love bug song. That way I know pretty much any other song I play will not clip at volume 35. My taramps MD 3000.1 2OHM has the clip indicator on the amp.
Puts out a certified 3,200 watts on the amp dyno @12.6 volts. I'm normally stay above 13 volts when playing on kill so it's possible it's doing 3,500 watts. The skar DDX 12S handle it well. They never smell or get that hot. The DDX 12s are rated 1000w rms. So the DDX SERIES has to be underrated on the watts
jesus fucking christ those mids and highs bruh lmao and the bass, badass setup fr
Thanks bro I really appreciate it. The mids and highs are actually turned down. I have the mids and highs turned down to - 4db on the radio settings. It's pioneer radio in network mode. So I can adjust each tweeter and mid individually using the radio. Appreciate your comment 💯
@@Silentjustin06 thats crazy, that shit is stupid loud and clear
@@getmoneyandbitches it's actually turn down on the amp also. I like to play my radio at full volume so i get max wattage out my bass amp without my ears ringing when im done driving somewhere. I'll try to do a distance demo video of the mids and highs. I'll turn it all up to the proper gain settings and 0 out the mids and highs on radio. Thanks again 👍
Sounds good if u like rattleing
It's sounds great in the car. I understand I should put some kind of sound deadening but I'm not trying to make this some kind of competition build
Got that shit smackin. Damn hatchback always rattle extra
Thanks man 😁 I have no sound deading so it rattles everything. I think the subs have actually broken a few things. my rear view mirror and passenger side mirror. The passenger taillight rattles now also. They rattle with no music on
@@Silentjustin06 make sure you're consistently checking your ground and power connections. They will loosen up over time. I try to check mine every week. I've had terminals come all the way off just flapping around in the back.
@@gregdragoo4777 yeah that wouldn't be good. The way my amps are mounted and the way my wires are ran. It would be highly unlikely for the wires to come out. Even if the set screws were to fall out. It's good advice so I'll check them periodically. Thanks for your advice.
@@Silentjustin06 you on lithium yet?
@@gregdragoo4777 Not yet, been thinking of building my own lithium battery. Much cheaper that way. im on stock alternator with 2 XS POWER batteries. I'm still on 4 guage wire also. I haven't completely done the big 3 yet. I've done the grounds but not the power wire for the alternator. When I decide to change my alternator I'll complete the big 3. With all these limitations of my electrical. I stay above 13.2 most of the time.
Now the annoying part fixing all the shit you rattle loose. Sunvisors, rear view, sunglass holder are always 1st to go. Then it's tail lights, dash lights right before alt crashes.
No shit that sounds terrible... Did I say it sounds terrible. Like freaking terrible
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 Been chasing rattles my whole life. Just to sell the car and start over. Secret it's to dynomat before you buy a system. I glue my sunvisors and sunglass holders in place so they don't break.
I don't care how you think it sounds. If you don't like it. Don't watch the video. It sounds great in the car and that all I care about
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 put up a video of your setup. since you want to bash other people setup.
@SilentJustin06 No shyt. People only know what they see on the internet. Every week my car develops a new rattle I have to find. At some point you just live with it when you bump hard. Cause nothing helps.
Hows the amp holding up
It's fine
What are the specs on your box?
www.qpowerinc.com/details.aspx?product_id=20189
Those qbomb horn boxes are sick I use the single 10 horn box and my only complain is the 12 is the same size and Tuning Frequency 30 hz 2 cubic ft just a bigger cut out
@@jameskidd61 yeah I've have several Qbomb boxes. I have a square □ side port for a SKAR EVL 8 INCH. I have a square □ side port 12 inch with a ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH P3D2.
I had a dual 12 inch qbomb with just the skinny slot port in the middle. Thats probably the worst one I've had. The horn port is definitely the best Q bomb box I've had
@@jameskidd61 Skar and Qbomb are probably the best box you can get for the price they sell them for.
@@Silentjustin06 go look at subbox pro and make your own. home Depot has mdf 4x8x.75 50 a sheet get 2. You can even have them cut it to size if you trust strangers with your wood lol....... go buy a 6" aeroport. try to get one 20+" long so you can cut it down if you need. Glue screws and a drill.. might cost you 200 the first time. Worth every penny qboom will always be subpar pre fabed boxes. I had a 12 cube box with 4 pa cheapy 10s. Tuned at 23 hz. Didnt have it for more than a month or two. guy at work paid me 800 for it. It only cost me 450 max lol. Go build it man it's easy as fuck
Should I run 2 ddxs on a skar 3500 will they last ?
@@Silentjustin06 no I’m relatively new to having my own subs mines d4 ddx I only have one rn bout to order the second one.
If your asking that question I assume your new to the car audio. Do yourself a favor and read up on the basics to building and tuning amps. It will really pay off in the end. But yes, gains adjusted correctly and box to spec you should be good.
@@earlmullet7628 when I asked if he had a way of telling if he is clipping. he did say he's relatively new to car audio systems
@@earlmullet7628 I would like to say you are completely right about educating himself on tuning amps and just car audio equipment in general. There are many factors that can blow his speaker very quickly if they aren't taken into consideration. Even if he had a SMD DD1 to tune his amp gains and a box that is spec for them subwoofer Doesn't mean he still can't blow them subwoofer. Not all music is recorded equal. Even if he uses a SMD DD1 with a 40hz test tone to set the gain on the amp. If he plays anything that's been bass boosted. He could still clip the shit out of the subwoofers and blow them.
@@earlmullet7628 for example I have playlist of demo songs I play. Most of them will not clip if volume is played at 35 of 40 on my radio. The Kevin Gates song (love bug) clips very badly at volume 35 but is ok at volume 31 of 40. So I adjust my amp gain by using the love bug song. That way I know pretty much any other song I play will not clip at volume 35. My taramps MD 3000.1 2OHM has the clip indicator on the amp.
What amp are you running?
Taramps MD 3000.1 2ohm
Puts out a certified 3,200 watts on the amp dyno @12.6 volts. I'm normally stay above 13 volts when playing on kill so it's possible it's doing 3,500 watts. The skar DDX 12S handle it well. They never smell or get that hot. The DDX 12s are rated 1000w rms. So the DDX SERIES has to be underrated on the watts
I just ordered a Smart 3k for (2) vxf 12's
@@pvgreen621 nice man! It should slap pretty good. I would recommend taramps smart 5k or the regular 5k
@@pvgreen621 my friend has 4 of those subs. He run 2 Taramps 5ks. So a 5k for 2 12s. Has no problems with it
Smoked my 15 svr n my 12s svr 😏😏😏
On what amp
Wtf😂 I don't hear no bass all I hear is a lot of rattling
If you don't like it then don't watch it. It sounds great inside the car and I can care less what it sounds like outside
U went from '😍MASSIVE AUDIO😍' to SkarBag🤢🤮
Skar work great. I had to upgrade my subwoofers because the massive can't handle 3,000 rms. Skars were cheaper too