Here it is Gerardo. www.amazon.com/8mm-Film-Video-Transfer-Project-ebook/dp/B010YUOORU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=stan+jelavic&qid=1579839684&sr=8-2 This is a very old project and I have since designed a special controller with the camera for the Wolverine unit. Here is the video describing the mod kit. th-cam.com/video/-rY6PjkpxOw/w-d-xo.html This unit produces a high quality transfer.
My next little project is to do a simple dongle for the cell phone to capture 8mm film. Have some cool ideas. Do not intend to mass produce it but possibly share the design with the people interested.
It is a different (original) approach if you want to leave the projector alone, but since you have altered the projector anyway you could also include a switch to the projector which triggers the camera on each frame. (Maybe in a mechanical way even) Much simpeler than filtering multiple captures of the same frame (including transitional frames which have to be gotten rid of) The projector will have to be modified to be able to run very slow (not possible now I guess) to match the speed of the camera taking pictures in a row.
Yes fredontube, that is definitely a good approach and I detailed that in my instruction book. Used a step down gearing system attached to the motor and custom bracket with a micro switch on the projector cam. The issues are that it takes ages to do one video, high noise from the gearbox and the camera wear. Thanks for the comment.
Very interesting Stan. Please can you explain (better by writen) how run the software for eliminate superfluous images ? My english is not so very good to translate your words in the video. Thanks !!
Claudiu Cobilanschi Essentially you remove the projector lens and use a macro lens with your camera. I described the procedure in the kindle book. Let ne know if you run into issues.
Yes they are. They do not contain any optics and their purpose is to move the lens further away from the camera which reduces the view angle and increases magnification.
I use a camera to capture the video from the projector. Then use BlazeMediaPro software to decompose the video into individual images. Then use my tiff diff software to eliminate the duplicate frames and then Magix software to comose the final video from the images selected by tiffdiff. You can buy BlazeMediaPro and Magix software. Alternatively, search for "how to decompose video into images" and :how to compose video from images". Possibly use ffmpeg utility. My software is free. I put the executables here: www.dropbox.com/sh/gn3tdhc3io17v5j/AACzZ79oZdnVeuACThT_WqK5a?dl=0 Copy the executable files to the folder where video images are and run run_diff_filter.bat there. This will create the output directory and put the final images there ready to be imported into the final video. I am willing to share the source code as well if you want to play with it. Let me know.
The initial capture is in avi format. That is the default pen camera video format. The blaze sw takes other formats as well so that should not be an issue.
In my last post I mentioned that I planned to do a project with the transfer to a cellphone. Just wanted to inform anyone interested that the project is complete and the quality of the video is very good. The setup is much simpler than the previous one and it uses one of these: www.amazon.com/Microscope-Teslong-Multi-Function-Magnification-Waterproof/dp/B01IV0TV50/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1546003803&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=teslong+ms100&psc=1 Will be posting the details shortly.
At what rate are you capturing? Theoretically this process should work in realtime speed shouldn't it? I'm thinking of trying this with my 16mm projector. It can run at 24fps and 15fps.
Possibly. The problem is that the camera and the projector are not synchronized and you will have transition frames in the capture. I grab it at a 1/4 rate or slower so that I have enough good frames between the transitions to be a able to compose a video without dropped frames.
you mention a motor control setup using arduino for speed control of the projector. i am using an old Bell and Howell super8 projector that runs on a shaded pole, single phase 120v motor. i assume it runs at 18FPS or so, and need to slow it Down. I see a schematic you posted on line, but can't read it. Can you provide a usable schematic of your setup with parts breakdown, and Arduino software sketch? I am having success, optically, using an Olympus Sz-31MR camera,24X zoom, filming through the large lens removed from a broken Binocular. I can provide pics with comments if you can email me your email address. Currently, getting the projector speed under control is holding me up. Thanks, John Couvillon
I can't find the software you are using to do the decompose. Sounds like you are saying Blaze Video Pro...but that app name isn't listed on the Blaze Website.
Thank you Dave. I put the executables here: www.dropbox.com/sh/gn3tdhc3io17v5j/AACzZ79oZdnVeuACThT_WqK5a?dl=0 Copy the executable files to the folder where video images are and run run_diff_filter.bat there. This will create the output directory and put the final images there ready to be imported into the final video. Do you want the source code as well?
Well, thank you Ana for encouragement. Yes, I am working on the kindle version and it should be coming out shortly.
Stan, you did a mention about an Instruction Book It`s posible find it please?
Here it is Gerardo.
www.amazon.com/8mm-Film-Video-Transfer-Project-ebook/dp/B010YUOORU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=stan+jelavic&qid=1579839684&sr=8-2
This is a very old project and I have since designed a special controller with the camera for the Wolverine unit. Here is the video describing the mod kit.
th-cam.com/video/-rY6PjkpxOw/w-d-xo.html
This unit produces a high quality transfer.
@@stanjelavic4034 thanks for the info. Good luck !
Yes, had to replace the light with an led type. You can make your own from white leds or get one of the video camera lights.
Bravo majstore!
My next little project is to do a simple dongle for the cell phone to capture 8mm film. Have some cool ideas. Do not intend to mass produce it but possibly share the design with the people interested.
It is a different (original) approach if you want to leave the projector alone, but since you have altered the projector anyway you could also include a switch to the projector which triggers the camera on each frame. (Maybe in a mechanical way even) Much simpeler than filtering multiple captures of the same frame (including transitional frames which have to be gotten rid of)
The projector will have to be modified to be able to run very slow (not possible now I guess) to match the speed of the camera taking pictures in a row.
Yes fredontube, that is definitely a good approach and I detailed that in my instruction book. Used a step down gearing system attached to the motor and custom bracket with a micro switch on the projector cam. The issues are that it takes ages to do one video, high noise from the gearbox and the camera wear. Thanks for the comment.
Very interesting Stan. Please can you explain (better by writen) how run the software for eliminate superfluous images
? My english is not so very good to translate your words in the video. Thanks !!
This looks great . I`ve bought the kindle book.Have you posted the diff filter programme anywhere?
Do you still need the diff program? I can send you the link.
Here it is.
www.dropbox.com/sh/gn3tdhc3io17v5j/AACzZ79oZdnVeuACThT_WqK5a?dl=0
Check the previous posts if still interested.
Impressive and clever work. Any possibility of your book in Kindle format?
Yes, if still interested just search my name at amazon.
Did You do any modifications of light source on the projector? Like an LED light?
Yes, used the video camera led light. Pretty simple to install.
Are you making your diff filter program available to others?
Enigma758 Yes I do and it is free. Will post the source when I get back from vacation next week.
what did you modified to the projector lens, please?
Claudiu Cobilanschi Essentially you remove the projector lens and use a macro lens with your camera. I described the procedure in the kindle book. Let ne know if you run into issues.
Are the extension tubes teleconverters?
Yes they are. They do not contain any optics and their purpose is to move the lens further away from the camera which reduces the view angle and increases magnification.
Did you take Matrox tocapture pics?
Not sure if I completely understand the question. Are you asking for frame-by-frame?
I asked for your software to capture the pics and make a movie from this pics.
I use a camera to capture the video from the projector. Then use BlazeMediaPro software to decompose the video into individual images. Then use my tiff diff software to eliminate the duplicate frames and then Magix software to comose the final video from the images selected by tiffdiff.
You can buy BlazeMediaPro and Magix software. Alternatively, search for "how to decompose video into images" and :how to compose video from images". Possibly use ffmpeg utility. My software is free. I put the executables here:
www.dropbox.com/sh/gn3tdhc3io17v5j/AACzZ79oZdnVeuACThT_WqK5a?dl=0
Copy the executable files to the folder where video images are and run run_diff_filter.bat there. This will create the output directory and put the final images there ready to be imported into the final video.
I am willing to share the source code as well if you want to play with it. Let me know.
Just FYI. The Kindle version is out:
www.amazon.com/8mm-Film-Video-Transfer-Project-ebook/dp/B010YUOORU/
Hope you find it helpful.
What format is your initial capture?
The initial capture is in avi format. That is the default pen camera video format. The blaze sw takes other formats as well so that should not be an issue.
In my last post I mentioned that I planned to do a project with the transfer to a cellphone. Just wanted to inform anyone interested that the project is complete and the quality of the video is very good. The setup is much simpler than the previous one and it uses one of these:
www.amazon.com/Microscope-Teslong-Multi-Function-Magnification-Waterproof/dp/B01IV0TV50/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1546003803&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=teslong+ms100&psc=1
Will be posting the details shortly.
At what rate are you capturing? Theoretically this process should work in realtime speed shouldn't it? I'm thinking of trying this with my 16mm projector. It can run at 24fps and 15fps.
Possibly. The problem is that the camera and the projector are not synchronized and you will have transition frames in the capture. I grab it at a 1/4 rate or slower so that I have enough good frames between the transitions to be a able to compose a video without dropped frames.
you mention a motor control setup using arduino for speed control of the projector. i am using an old Bell and Howell super8 projector that runs on a shaded pole, single phase 120v motor. i assume it runs at 18FPS or so, and need to slow it Down. I see a schematic you posted on line, but can't read it. Can you provide a usable schematic of your setup with parts breakdown, and Arduino software sketch?
I am having success, optically, using an Olympus Sz-31MR camera,24X zoom, filming through the large lens removed from a broken Binocular. I can provide pics with comments if you can email me your email address. Currently, getting the projector speed under control is holding me up.
Thanks,
John Couvillon
Still working on this? Let me know and we can discuss.
I can't find the software you are using to do the decompose. Sounds like you are saying Blaze Video Pro...but that app name isn't listed on the Blaze Website.
Here the pro web site:
www.blazemp.com/
Easy to write the sw with python and openGL. Will do it.
awesome!
good work..but its not easy
Thank you Dave. I put the executables here:
www.dropbox.com/sh/gn3tdhc3io17v5j/AACzZ79oZdnVeuACThT_WqK5a?dl=0
Copy the executable files to the folder where video images are and run run_diff_filter.bat there. This will create the output directory and put the final images there ready to be imported into the final video.
Do you want the source code as well?