I appreciate that the owner spent the money to have the machine fixed rather than just throwing it to the curb. Based on it being a flat head Briggs engine, it’s probably 15+ years old so it’s going to spend more time working, hopefully another 15 years.
@@80SWoods Throwing to the curb usually still ends up being fixed and back in sevice. Thrown to the scrap yard is the one to frown upon. The point of no return is when they reach the scrapyard.
true. pulled a Quantum off a ditched mower after 2008. Loose blade. Plugged filter, fouled sparkplug. Bolted that on my deck. It's still there today. Production date on block says April 2000. Great emgines. Just re-torque the three head bolts closest to the exhaust port every season,. they will work loose.
Donny, I’ve been in and out of hospital for the past 6 months, so I have missed a lot of your posts. But, I’m having a great time catching up with! I could have done with you during my 20 years at sea. Even though I’m 72, I’m still learning a lot from you. I’ll probably/definitely never get to use it, but, you make learning fun and interesting. Thanks . Sincerely, Rod
Excellent info, thanks. I think I'd have tried heat on the stuck bolt and a small chisel on the edges of the bolt pushing it so it'd turn out if it turned at all. You might want to invest in a really good set of left handed drill bits. With them as you're drilling a stuck bolt out, the bolt will tend to turn already. Some heat, will help that as well.
Center punches are pointed, with a point to allow you to make a center for the drill bit to follow. Drift punches are blunt, and designed to allow you to drive / move / drift something. Regarding so-called “easy-outs” or screw extractors: As an aircraft mechanic, I’ve taken out MANY screws with the long thin type like you showed in your video. However, these are very easy to break. I’ve found the short type with a large hex that you can grab with a socket and ratchet, to be far better and much less prone to breakage. -I think the set I have is made by MAC, Proto, or Snapon.
@@alext8828 I don’t think so, but hard to tell. The important lesson to know about screw extractors, is that you should always use the correct size drill bit. On every easy out I’ve ever used, it says right on it, what drill bit size to use. I think he’s smart enough to know to use the correct bit. As far as the broken bolt not wanting to turn out, I think he was being smart and stopping before the easy-out broke off in the bolt. The long skinny type that he was using, are easy to break….I’ve literally seen them twist, and then snap. When that happens, it is EXTREMELY difficult to drill them out. Easy-outs and drill bits are very hard, and tend to let your drill bit wander out the side of the bolt, rather than straight in. Never put a side load on an easy-out.
@@patrickflohe7427 I don't mean he's using the wrong drill for the extractor. Both match each other but they're too big. If you make the bolt paper thin, it will expand and you'll be pulling on the walls of the hole and not the walls of the bolt.
@@alext8828 I hear what you’re saying, and it does look kinda thin. I’ve personally not had that happen, but I suppose it could. I’m used to drilling harder steel and titanium bolts out, but especially on a bolt like that, if the easy-out is the correct size, it should just bite into the material that you’re trying to remove. I think for a 3/16 or #10 bolt, using that type of extractor, I would use a 7/64 drill bit. -but different types of extractors will require different size drill bits. For a 1/4” bolt, I think it was more like 1/8” or 5/32. That might’ve been a 5/16” bolt, that he was trying to remove. Many times, I’ve had a bolt break free from the heat of drilling alone.
Good job Dony--a man has got to know his limitations!--Clint Eastwod using easy out!!!!!!!!! Some time I drill small pilot hole with regular drill then step up with a left hand bit-it may grab at breakthrough and turn out broken bolt. Also good center-just drill out and Heli-Coil it. Old Cat mechanic--42 years now--yall listen to the man he knows his stuff!!!!!!!!!!--keep the videos coming--chainsaws favorite!!!!
I have really give you credit Dony your step by step informative videos are excellent and the camera work is spot on! Thanks for sharing your great handson experience, i really appreciate it!
Wow! Definitely need gloves for this repair and Dony makes it look simple. A bit of heavy type work here but it goes to show we can perform this repair ourselves and save a ton of money. Nice step by step video with the part numbers too!
Drift punches are used for removing retaining pins, not center punching. I have run into the broken bolt situation. I generally drill it out and run a nut and bolt setup as you mentioned. I gave up trying to remove the broken bolt on mowers years ago. If you can , then do it. It saves time anyway. Nice video as always!
Well done Sir. For those tapered removal tools I drill a much smaller hole so hopefully the stuck part is not forced tighter to a larger Dia. Thought you were using L.H. Thread drill. Great Fix and Good Save.
I am reviving an old Snapper Ninja with a GCV160 that has both of these issues, lol. It sat for years in the weather with no air box cover before I got it. The throttle mechanism was seized. The self propel mechanism was seized. The blade adapter is seized. I freed up the throttle (somewhat) and the self propel and got them working. I got the engine running again, but I am still having surging issues at medium speed, and it will not run at all at low speed. I have replaced the entire fuel system, minus the tank. I have to figure that issue out, deal with the broken bolt, and free up the seized adapter, and then it should be good to go, after 2 years of banging my head against a wall. It does run well enough at high speed to be used without issue, but I want it to be 100%.
When drilling out the bolt, a left turning drill bit will often grab the bolt and unscrew it out as you are drilling. Also, penetrating fluid works. Thanks for the videos.
For working on push mower I use a riding mower lift when I found accessory tracks that attach to the lift. The push mower wheels run in the tracks. Then you raise it and mower is up and level.Then I put under a ceiling mounted winch and then lift front of mower with the winch. Easy access to blade and motor mount bolts.
Hey Don, what is the Milwaukee impact you’re using? I’m vested in the M-18 system and have an impact driver as well as a larger impact wrench and a hammer drill which I use to spin engines. I like what I saw you using to remove the blade. It’s just the right size.
Having no idea what that aluminum casting endured in the process of sheering that bolt, compressing the drilling between Two Case hardened steel components seems like a much stronger solution. Clinically Neat and Pretty doesn't count for much if the casting fails ! 😉👍
I was given an old mower (Tecumseh engine old). I got it running good enough to mower the little patch of grass in front of my house. I was just starting to mow one day when I noticed the engine was loose in the deck. When I checked I found one bolt missing, one bolt broken and the other two were loose...lol. I didn't even try to take the broken one out...just found another bolt to replace the missing one and now it runs with three...I figure if I get another season out of it, I'd be happy with that...0$ into it...0 expectations. 😉 Cheers from NB
Great job, Don! I could have dealt with drilling out the engine bolt, but I don't have a torch that would be hot enough to remove the blade adapter and drive pulley if it was stuck that for me. I have looked at pricing for some you've recommended, so I'd either buy one of those or maybe rent one, if I couldn't borrow one. Thanks for the tips.
Map-pro cylinders are about $15 USD. Torch heads vary by model and intended use. General use with occasional copper plumbing pipe soldering for me personally so I have the Bernzomatic TS8000, TS4000 and some way cheaper types as well that I've acquired over the years.
@@SA-iw4ci Thank you, SA! Which torch head type or model would you suggest for the kinds work that Don does in these videos, please? I have a propane bottle torch for things like plumbing pipes.
@@100vg Well, I don't know what all DB73 does torch wise but in this particular video, the Torch head he's using looks and sounds like the Bernzomatic TS8000 or aftermarket equivalent. Trigger start with adjustable intensity. MAPP gas is no longer available and has been replaced with MAP-Pro. Bottle is still yellow though. The difference between them are that MAPP gas burns hotter than Map-Pro. Over 1500°F hotter. Map-pro only burns slightly above 100°F hotter than Propane.
@@SA-iw4ci Thank you. I have heard that Propane is not hot enough for the jobs that Don does, which is why he uses Map or other hotter gases, so how can Map-Pro be that much more effective than Propane? I wonder if Mapp gas bottles are still available in other countries. If so, I might be ab le to buy it if a seller has PayPal or an equivalent. American cards cannot be used outside of the Continental 48, or maybe all 50 States, unless a store in Canada, for example, has an American bank for American purchases.
I have drilled them out and cut 5/16 threads in them. it sounds like yer cuttting threads into cast iron .that corrosion is amazingly hard.thanks Don.that briggs motor is my favorite. got it on my wood splitter .and many backup motors saved up.
Don, have come across this quite a few times. Always had to drill out and tap. Extractor never works but if i use a small coal chisel i found I can push the little bit of the remaining bolt that is stuck to the threads to the middle of the hole i drilled then it will come out. Just go at it from both sudes, top and bottom. Have you noticed when taking something apart there is ALWAYS 1 bolt that gives you trouble, ALWAYS 1. Nice video, thanks
Not a fan of the front wheel drive toro I find there to light in the front end to be a good self propelled mower . Thanks for the video done a good job 👏
I am dealing with a seized blade adapter on a Snapper Ninja. It has a hex head set screw. I have broken four bits on this screw. It will not come loose. I can't even use a puller until I break the screw loose. It hasn't stripped out. The bits break before the screw does, lol. I even tried an impact with a brand new bit. RIP to the bit. What do you suggest to break it loose? I am a novice at this kind of thing. I haven't really dealt with it before.
Hi. I've been a follower for years. Thanks for all the great video. i need a new riding mower but don't want to buy one with the engine that has a problem with the compression relief part breaking. Can you tell me what engine this is?
You should try left hand drill bits. Most broken bolts will unscrew before you get the hole too deep. That and I use Kroil or PB Blaster penetrating spray to help unseize them.
When you turned the mower on the side, I was always told to have the air filter on the top/up side so oil doesn't go where it isn't supposed to go. You did the opposite. Is that because you were going to drain the oil anyway? Thanks for the video.
@Donyboy73- if you have a welder you can weld a nut onto that broken bolt and then extract it with a wrench.!! , also a good way to remove the broken bolt. 😇😇
Quand l'extracteur de boulon ne fonctionne pas, j'ai souvent réussi à retirer le résidu du boulon pris dans les fils du bloc en utilisant une filière (tap) de la dimension du boulon original, Amitiés !
@@marcmyers1465 I guess that just depends on the person working on the unit I know for a fact I could weld a nut on there quicker than I could drill it out and tap it I've been an auto mechanic for Close to 27 years now, I guess it just depends on the mechanic working on the unit.
When you use that big a bit to drill out the bolt, the extractor expands what's left of the bolt to contact the walls and holds the bolt. Try using a much smaller drill bit and extractor next time.
Another awesome tutorial friend thank you so much. I’ve been a long time subscriber and follower, by the way, what is the proper amount of oil to put in the lawnmower?
In some situations (rust), paradoxically I've heard impacts are actually less likely to break bolts than hand torque. Idea being the impact breaks the rust through shock where hand torque would have just sheared the bolt off. Depends on the nature of what's seizing the bolt.
Good tips. I hate using the traditional easy out extractor because they wedge outward and sometimes tighten the friction of the broken part threads in the casting. I've had better luck with the kind with the finder spiral and a shoulder that butts up against the end of the broken bolt. I want to insert a picture but I don't know how. Regardless of which style, this is not a place to buy a cheap knock off tool. Pay serious money and get a really good brand-name extractor set. It's also really important to not put a sideways bending load on such a brittle extractor because they break off and now you havesomething in the hole that is extremely hard and can't be drilled. That point you're almost stuck with going to EDM machine and having the hardened tap taken out. Not fun
Before you drilled with the 5/16 bit, I was thinking of skipping the heating and extraction effort part, and using an impact driven 5/16 threader - back and forth, back and forth, very short bursts or just use a hand tool.
The key is to have some really good drill bits, that’s where I always go wrong here. If you have poor quality drill bits this job takes a long time and can be very frustrating! Great job, Dony!
PS. The other thing that I love is that you use anti-seize on your re-assemblies. Oftentimes, you see people omitting it, even though they will be the next poor schmuck taking it apart !
good evening I'm looking for the carburetor Briggs and Stratton 5ph ,and can't find it can you know where I can find it so I can order it thanks in advance,
Never once have I successfully removed the remainder of the drilled out broken bolt. And I've also center punched off center once or thrice...usually because I couldn't find my readers. (Reading glasses)
Thanks for the anti-seize --remember-the next guy to pull it off-it may even be you!!!!!!!!--I try to tell co workers this but seems like its not a habit with them???? some gota learn the hard way!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Having a Very Poor understanding of Torque Wrenches as a Lad, I acquired a Black Belt in Easy Outs, Drilling, and Tapping very, Very Quickly ! 😣 I must own 1 of every variety made, and very few if any provide any margin of success... 😒 Welding a shank, Reverse drill bits, Map Gas, and a quality Tap were the only things that ever worked cleanly, but drilling a pass through was always quickest. 😉👍 Personally, I just don't trust aluminum castings after a Torque injury, or sheer... 🤷🏼♂️
While I'm certain it could... I'd like to point out that the Aircraft nut, and bolt used are " Case Hardened Steel" 😉 Just because a thing can be done, does not necessarily mean that it Should... 🤷♂️
Many folks don't have a choice and many don't care. It's usually lack of cleaning the deck underside that promotes rusty seized bolts where I am here in San Antonio Texas. This Toro DonyBoy worked on in this video actually seems well taken care of.
@@SA-iw4ci"well taken care of"... except for the rusted parts. I understand that some people don't have a choice, but I'd at least throw a tarp over my equipment.
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HOW-TO Adjust The RPM On A Lawnmower - Powermore engine
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I appreciate that the owner spent the money to have the machine fixed rather than just throwing it to the curb. Based on it being a flat head Briggs engine, it’s probably 15+ years old so it’s going to spend more time working, hopefully another 15 years.
@@80SWoods Throwing to the curb usually still ends up being fixed and back in sevice.
Thrown to the scrap yard is the one to frown upon.
The point of no return is when they reach the scrapyard.
true. pulled a Quantum off a ditched mower after 2008. Loose blade. Plugged filter, fouled sparkplug. Bolted that on my deck. It's still there today. Production date on block says April 2000. Great emgines. Just re-torque the three head bolts closest to the exhaust port every season,. they will work loose.
Donny,
I’ve been in and out of hospital for the past 6 months, so I have missed a lot of your posts.
But, I’m having a great time catching up with!
I could have done with you during my 20 years at sea.
Even though I’m 72, I’m still learning a lot from you. I’ll probably/definitely never get to use it, but, you make learning fun and interesting. Thanks .
Sincerely,
Rod
I hope you are recovering, my wife just spent a week in hospital.
Another great video. Your calm demeanor makes it very enjoyable to watch. Really look forward to the next one!
Great tip about drilling it out completely and using a nut and bolt. Thanks.
Thanks for another Great job! Donny is My Favorite Canadian!
Another excellent how-to video!
Thanks Donny. You make it all look so simple, even though it's not. You really know your stuff!
Thanks for posting Dony
Excellent info, thanks. I think I'd have tried heat on the stuck bolt and a small chisel on the edges of the bolt pushing it so it'd turn out if it turned at all. You might want to invest in a really good set of left handed drill bits. With them as you're drilling a stuck bolt out, the bolt will tend to turn already. Some heat, will help that as well.
Dony your number one in my book.
Center punches are pointed, with a point to allow you to make a center for the drill bit to follow.
Drift punches are blunt, and designed to allow you to drive / move / drift something.
Regarding so-called “easy-outs” or screw extractors: As an aircraft mechanic, I’ve taken out MANY screws with the long thin type like you showed in your video.
However, these are very easy to break.
I’ve found the short type with a large hex that you can grab with a socket and ratchet, to be far better and much less prone to breakage.
-I think the set I have is made by MAC, Proto, or Snapon.
I think he used too big a bit, and now the extractor is expanding the bolt against the walls of the nole. Do you agree?
@@alext8828
I don’t think so, but hard to tell.
The important lesson to know about screw extractors, is that you should always use the correct size drill bit.
On every easy out I’ve ever used, it says right on it, what drill bit size to use.
I think he’s smart enough to know to use the correct bit.
As far as the broken bolt not wanting to turn out, I think he was being smart and stopping before the easy-out broke off in the bolt.
The long skinny type that he was using, are easy to break….I’ve literally seen them twist, and then snap.
When that happens, it is EXTREMELY difficult to drill them out. Easy-outs and drill bits are very hard, and tend to let your drill bit wander out the side of the bolt, rather than straight in.
Never put a side load on an easy-out.
@@patrickflohe7427 I don't mean he's using the wrong drill for the extractor. Both match each other but they're too big. If you make the bolt paper thin, it will expand and you'll be pulling on the walls of the hole and not the walls of the bolt.
@@alext8828
I hear what you’re saying, and it does look kinda thin.
I’ve personally not had that happen, but I suppose it could.
I’m used to drilling harder steel and titanium bolts out, but especially on a bolt like that, if the easy-out is the correct size, it should just bite into the material that you’re trying to remove.
I think for a 3/16 or #10 bolt, using that type of extractor, I would use a 7/64 drill bit. -but different types of extractors will require different size drill bits.
For a 1/4” bolt, I think it was more like 1/8” or 5/32.
That might’ve been a 5/16” bolt, that he was trying to remove.
Many times, I’ve had a bolt break free from the heat of drilling alone.
Always a pleasure to watch a master at work. Education.too!😊
Good job Dony--a man has got to know his limitations!--Clint Eastwod using easy out!!!!!!!!! Some time I drill small pilot hole with regular drill then step up with a left hand bit-it may grab at breakthrough and turn out broken bolt. Also good center-just drill out and Heli-Coil it. Old Cat mechanic--42 years now--yall listen to the man he knows his stuff!!!!!!!!!!--keep the videos coming--chainsaws favorite!!!!
I have really give you credit Dony your step by step informative videos are excellent and the camera work is spot on! Thanks for sharing your great handson experience, i really appreciate it!
Another amazing video buddy keep up the great work
Excellent video as always! Thank you.
Great work Dony. Thanks so much for the informative video. I follow your program all the time for great tips & info.
Wow! Definitely need gloves for this repair and Dony makes it look simple. A bit of heavy type work here but it goes to show we can perform this repair ourselves and save a ton of money. Nice step by step video with the part numbers too!
Drift punches are used for removing retaining pins, not center punching. I have run into the broken bolt situation. I generally drill it out and run a nut and bolt setup as you mentioned. I gave up trying to remove the broken bolt on mowers years ago. If you can , then do it. It saves time anyway. Nice video as always!
Looks like he used a sharpened Phillips #3 Bit.
I have one of those mowers and I love it.
Well done Sir. For those tapered removal tools I drill a much smaller hole so hopefully the stuck part is not forced tighter to a larger Dia. Thought you were using L.H. Thread drill. Great Fix and Good Save.
another happy customer!
Great video! Thanks Dony!
I am reviving an old Snapper Ninja with a GCV160 that has both of these issues, lol. It sat for years in the weather with no air box cover before I got it. The throttle mechanism was seized. The self propel mechanism was seized. The blade adapter is seized. I freed up the throttle (somewhat) and the self propel and got them working. I got the engine running again, but I am still having surging issues at medium speed, and it will not run at all at low speed. I have replaced the entire fuel system, minus the tank. I have to figure that issue out, deal with the broken bolt, and free up the seized adapter, and then it should be good to go, after 2 years of banging my head against a wall. It does run well enough at high speed to be used without issue, but I want it to be 100%.
When drilling out the bolt, a left turning drill bit will often grab the bolt and unscrew it out as you are drilling. Also, penetrating fluid works. Thanks for the videos.
You make it look so easy. Thank you very much for all your effort. I have learnt so much information from your channel. From France#
For working on push mower I use a riding mower lift when I found accessory tracks that attach to the lift. The push mower wheels run in the tracks. Then you raise it and mower is up and level.Then I put under a ceiling mounted winch and then lift front of mower with the winch. Easy access to blade and motor mount bolts.
Hey Don, what is the Milwaukee impact you’re using? I’m vested in the M-18 system and have an impact driver as well as a larger impact wrench and a hammer drill which I use to spin engines. I like what I saw you using to remove the blade. It’s just the right size.
TY for Sharing
I have also had to resort to putting in a 5/16 bolt and nut. Good work.
Excellent. Video. Once again. Keep up the the great work
Done Right!
Thank you for the video that was awesome
Is it worth putting anti seize on the two remaining engine bolts?
Yes it's a good idea.
Absolutely.
For sure plus I'm looking into getting some for myself in future time etc.
👍great video
Good quick fix going with a thru bolt vs trying to extract the old bolt.
Thinking out of the box has it's benefits!
Having no idea what that aluminum casting endured in the process of sheering that bolt, compressing the drilling between Two Case hardened steel components seems like a much stronger solution. Clinically Neat and Pretty doesn't count for much if the casting fails ! 😉👍
I was given an old mower (Tecumseh engine old). I got it running good enough to mower the little patch of grass in front of my house. I was just starting to mow one day when I noticed the engine was loose in the deck. When I checked I found one bolt missing, one bolt broken and the other two were loose...lol. I didn't even try to take the broken one out...just found another bolt to replace the missing one and now it runs with three...I figure if I get another season out of it, I'd be happy with that...0$ into it...0 expectations. 😉
Cheers from NB
Great video 👍
Hey Don, I have the exact same torque wrench as you, they work so excellent 😂😅
Looks great!
I like your gas container
Do you ever tap that hole in the engine instead of using a bolt? Good Vid.
Great video as usual Don 👍🏾
Great job, Don! I could have dealt with drilling out the engine bolt, but I don't have a torch that would be hot enough to remove the blade adapter and drive pulley if it was stuck that for me. I have looked at pricing for some you've recommended, so I'd either buy one of those or maybe rent one, if I couldn't borrow one. Thanks for the tips.
You can buy the map torch quite inexpensively on amazon
Map-pro cylinders are about $15 USD.
Torch heads vary by model and intended use.
General use with occasional copper plumbing pipe soldering for me personally so I have the Bernzomatic TS8000, TS4000 and some way cheaper types as well that I've acquired over the years.
@@SA-iw4ci Thank you, SA! Which torch head type or model would you suggest for the kinds work that Don does in these videos, please? I have a propane bottle torch for things like plumbing pipes.
@@100vg Well, I don't know what all DB73 does torch wise but in this particular video, the Torch head he's using looks and sounds like the Bernzomatic TS8000 or aftermarket equivalent.
Trigger start with adjustable intensity.
MAPP gas is no longer available and has been replaced with MAP-Pro. Bottle is still yellow though.
The difference between them are that MAPP gas burns hotter than Map-Pro.
Over 1500°F hotter.
Map-pro only burns slightly above 100°F hotter than Propane.
@@SA-iw4ci Thank you. I have heard that Propane is not hot enough for the jobs that Don does, which is why he uses Map or other hotter gases, so how can Map-Pro be that much more effective than Propane? I wonder if Mapp gas bottles are still available in other countries. If so, I might be ab le to buy it if a seller has PayPal or an equivalent. American cards cannot be used outside of the Continental 48, or maybe all 50 States, unless a store in Canada, for example, has an American bank for American purchases.
Hey Don what drill bits did you recommend? I I’ve gone through this process before (which I hate) and need better drill bits.
Thanks chief!😃😊
Thanks for your support, have a great weekend!
I have drilled them out and cut 5/16 threads in them. it sounds like yer cuttting threads into cast iron .that corrosion is amazingly hard.thanks Don.that briggs motor is my favorite. got it on my wood splitter .and many backup motors saved up.
G day Don Good video. Ths
Don, have come across this quite a few times. Always had to drill out and tap. Extractor never works but if i use a small coal chisel i found I can push the little bit of the remaining bolt that is stuck to the threads to the middle of the hole i drilled then it will come out. Just go at it from both sudes, top and bottom.
Have you noticed when taking something apart there is ALWAYS 1 bolt that gives you trouble, ALWAYS 1.
Nice video, thanks
that was one of my favorite Toro mowers (Honda engine though) before I went to EGO battery mower...great job Don
I've never seen a Toro with a Honda engine...many Kohlers though.
Well Done, Don ! 😉👍
You made that look Impressively Quick & Painless... 😮
Good job. What were those bolts torqued at in ft pounds? Thanks, bro!
Don, the difference between you and other mechanics is you are a common sense machinist.
Would it be worth it to tap the next size up? Great info as always Don!
Not a fan of the front wheel drive toro I find there to light in the front end to be a good self propelled mower . Thanks for the video done a good job 👏
Agreed... I mean it Is a Toro, but certainly not their Best. 😒
Next time you need to drill out a seized bolt, use L.H. drill bits. Sometimes you get lucky and the drilling will remove the bolt. Nothing to loose.
I am dealing with a seized blade adapter on a Snapper Ninja. It has a hex head set screw. I have broken four bits on this screw. It will not come loose. I can't even use a puller until I break the screw loose. It hasn't stripped out. The bits break before the screw does, lol. I even tried an impact with a brand new bit. RIP to the bit. What do you suggest to break it loose? I am a novice at this kind of thing. I haven't really dealt with it before.
I would have to physically see it to advise you properly.
Nice video, where's your shop
cheers
Great vid... drained gas, is that your wife's turkey roasting pan for Xmas?
I promise I won't tell. LOL>
It's an old pan lol
I never knew
Another excellent video Don. How long did this actually take you?
Hi. I've been a follower for years. Thanks for all the great video. i need a new riding mower but don't want to buy one with the engine that has a problem with the compression relief part breaking. Can you tell me what engine this is?
Dony what's your view on the old debate about whether you can use car engine oil in mowers?
Yes you can, we are not powering a Formula 1 race car.
I use two guide bolts to line up the holes while putting bolt in the empty hole 😊
True, but on mower deck there's enough wiggle room to make the effort pointless... 🤷🏼♂️
You should try left hand drill bits. Most broken bolts will unscrew before you get the hole too deep. That and I use Kroil or PB Blaster penetrating spray to help unseize them.
I usually do but I don't want to chance breaking them on this
When you turned the mower on the side, I was always told to have the air filter on the top/up side so oil doesn't go where it isn't supposed to go. You did the opposite. Is that because you were going to drain the oil anyway? Thanks for the video.
@Donyboy73- if you have a welder you can weld a nut onto that broken bolt and then extract it with a wrench.!! , also a good way to remove the broken bolt. 😇😇
Quand l'extracteur de boulon ne fonctionne pas, j'ai souvent réussi à retirer le résidu du boulon pris dans les fils du bloc en utilisant une filière (tap) de la dimension du boulon original, Amitiés !
Yes I sometimes do that!
@@danielrobert7181 also a good method.!! 👍👍
Works Very well, but more labor intensive for the Customer... 🤷🏼♂️
@@marcmyers1465 I guess that just depends on the person working on the unit I know for a fact I could weld a nut on there quicker than I could drill it out and tap it I've been an auto mechanic for Close to 27 years now, I guess it just depends on the mechanic working on the unit.
When you use that big a bit to drill out the bolt, the extractor expands what's left of the bolt to contact the walls and holds the bolt. Try using a much smaller drill bit and extractor next time.
Thanks for the tip
Another awesome tutorial friend thank you so much. I’ve been a long time subscriber and follower, by the way, what is the proper amount of oil to put in the lawnmower?
it varies, but it's usually half a liter or quart
Thanks friend
Nice work. Just needs a wash, right😅
In some situations (rust), paradoxically I've heard impacts are actually less likely to break bolts than hand torque. Idea being the impact breaks the rust through shock where hand torque would have just sheared the bolt off. Depends on the nature of what's seizing the bolt.
Good tips.
I hate using the traditional easy out extractor because they wedge outward and sometimes tighten the friction of the broken part threads in the casting. I've had better luck with the kind with the finder spiral and a shoulder that butts up against the end of the broken bolt. I want to insert a picture but I don't know how.
Regardless of which style, this is not a place to buy a cheap knock off tool. Pay serious money and get a really good brand-name extractor set.
It's also really important to not put a sideways bending load on such a brittle extractor because they break off and now you havesomething in the hole that is extremely hard and can't be drilled. That point you're almost stuck with going to EDM machine and having the hardened tap taken out. Not fun
Hey, I never thought of using our roast pan for oil changes!! Ooooh...wife's gonna be passed at me!😂
Yes, she won’t like it. Been there and done it. Lol!
Yes, she won’t like it! I have been there and done it. Lol!
Before you drilled with the 5/16 bit, I was thinking of skipping the heating and extraction effort part, and using an impact driven 5/16 threader - back and forth, back and forth, very short bursts or just use a hand tool.
That's kind of a perilous process on an aluminum casting. Once aluminum has corroded to steel it's in there pretty solid... 😣
Why do they make the blade adapter to look bent down on the part that the actual blade mounts to?
What torch / tip do you use with the map gas?
The bernzomatic self igniting torch
If there was a way to suspend it in container of water and alum heated on a coleman stove the steel bolt would dissolve leaving aluminum
The key is to have some really good drill bits, that’s where I always go wrong here. If you have poor quality drill bits this job takes a long time and can be very frustrating! Great job, Dony!
Exactly why I take out my Walter bits for these occasions!
@@donyboy73I learned about the Walters bit from your video. 😃👍 Love Em !
👍
Do you think the original bolt was defective?
PS. The other thing that I love is that you use anti-seize on your re-assemblies.
Oftentimes, you see people omitting it, even though they will be the next poor schmuck taking it apart !
What was the point of removing the blade adapter?
It had to be replaced, because the pulley was shot ! 😉
good evening I'm looking for the carburetor Briggs and Stratton 5ph ,and can't find it can you know where I can find it so I can order it thanks in advance,
Call Mary at discountonlineparts.com 1 (423) 735-1008
A broken bolt in the engine Crank Case can be a problem with removing the oil sump for replacing the crank case gasket
Never once have I successfully removed the remainder of the drilled out broken bolt.
And I've also center punched off center once or thrice...usually because I couldn't find my readers. (Reading glasses)
Thanks for the anti-seize --remember-the next guy to pull it off-it may even be you!!!!!!!!--I try to tell co workers this but seems like its not a habit with them???? some gota learn the hard way!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Donyboy, you make it always look so damn easy, and when i try to do just something to my machines, i end up losing my marbles.😂🎃🌛🍬🕷🕸🦇🦉
I have never seen an ez out actually work on a siezed bolt. Have you?
Rarely
Having a Very Poor understanding of Torque Wrenches as a Lad, I acquired a Black Belt in Easy Outs, Drilling, and Tapping very, Very Quickly ! 😣
I must own 1 of every variety made, and very few if any provide any margin of success... 😒 Welding a shank, Reverse drill bits, Map Gas, and a quality Tap were the only things that ever worked cleanly, but drilling a pass through was always quickest. 😉👍
Personally, I just don't trust aluminum castings after a Torque injury, or sheer... 🤷🏼♂️
Could that hole have been tapped? It's aluminum.
While I'm certain it could... I'd like to point out that the Aircraft nut, and bolt used are " Case Hardened Steel" 😉 Just because a thing can be done, does not necessarily mean that it Should... 🤷♂️
Would it have been cheaper to just buy another self propelled push mower?
no
@@donyboy73 Absolutely love your channel!👍
@@michaelchilders1658 Have a good weekend Michael
This is why you don't store your equipment outside. I have a Toro Recycler that's older than this one, and mine's not rusted together.
Many folks don't have a choice and many don't care.
It's usually lack of cleaning the deck underside that promotes rusty seized bolts where I am here in San Antonio Texas.
This Toro DonyBoy worked on in this video actually seems well taken care of.
@@SA-iw4ci"well taken care of"... except for the rusted parts. I understand that some people don't have a choice, but I'd at least throw a tarp over my equipment.
Why didn't you just drill and tap a and hole or even helicoil it?
A pro would have repaired the original engine thread with a Helicoil. Better than original!
A bolt and nut is far better than a heli coil and less labor to charge the customer.
Not worth the effort. Not the Shuttle.
Even Professionally Installed Helicoils fail.
That Bolt is Solid Steel ! 😃👍