Two Minute Tuesdays! It's our new thing! Dig it?! :) - UPDATE: You guys wanted to know the camera settings for the star trail shot - My Aperture was at F9 so the depth wasn't shallow. My ISO was set to 160 (wanted it low since I would be exposing so long). Left the shutter open for exactly 2,488 seconds - 41 minutes. It didn't blow out because it was pitch black.. the only real light bleeding into the photo was from the stars and the SMALL light I had on inside the tent (which was on the lowest possible power setting - even still it illuminated the whole area around the tent. So cool!) it was shot at 16mm Focal length on a 1DXMK2. :)
An amazing tutorial, Peter. However, here's a little tip to those individuals, who don't have the dedication or patience to wait for hours while their camera is capturing. You can take multiple exposure, say 10 second each, then stack them all into photoshop and blend them all together. it would reduce the amount of time required to wait for your camera to process a single image. Also, it would allow more flexibility in post-processing like the highlights, shadows, whites, blacks, and etc. There's another reason why i recommend this technique because there has been several times, when someone or something jumps into the shot, and if i was taking one long exposure; i would be force to start over, but if taking multiple images i can simply stop or wait for the camera to finish and delete that single image.
I agree with the people saying that you need to be more descriptive but I also understand that in two minutes you are creating content that people watch in its entirety that keeps them hooked through the whole thing. It inspired me and now I can look through the comments or research further if I have any questions. Love the new weekly series Peter!
You are getting better and better in your videos and I'm just loving it ! The best photography and videography youtuber in youtube history! LOVE YOUR STYLEEE!
Camera shake is not exclusive to handheld shooting. There are many things that can introduce shake on a tripod, such as wind or a car diving nearby. Sandbags would be ideal in any long exposure situation. The benefit of using interval shooting and stacking is that you don't run the risk of your sensor getting hot enough to start introducing noise and hot pixels. And you could remove things such as an airplane flying overhead and creating unwanted trails. Surprised Peter didn't talk about this since he even showed an intervalometer.
New subscriber & fellow photographer here (I know my channel doesn't show it), but I had a tip for others. Yes, this will work keeping the shutter open for 45 minutes or however long you want. But, this can be very risky (in the sense of wasting time) if the camera gets bumped or nudged by anything. Even a strong gust of wind and a weak tripod could blur the entire exposure. What I would recommend is do several shorter exposures (30 seconds to a minute long) and then string the exposures together in post using something like a program called StarStax (completely free). Yes, this does add post work, but I would rather be safe than sorry. Plus if you are doing this where there may be planes or other objects flying through the sky that may ruin your trails, you can always just take out that image and re-string them together! The program is quite good at filling in the gaps that are left between exposures. You can even turn off noise reduction on your camera to extremely decrease that long processing time after the image is taken. Love your videos so far man! I look forward to more!
Cold nights, long exposure times, photos getting blown out accidently. Nighttime photography is a blessing and a curse. My oh, oh my do I love photography!
Quick rule of thumb for star trails. Take 500 and divide by the focal length of the lens, this will give you a ballpark of when the stars start to trail in seconds. So a 50mm lens will start to show trails around 10 seconds. 300mm you get about 2 seconds.
Siiiick! Love me some new types of video. Quick and dirty little tips and tricks. The upside about these, you can push these out rather often if you feel like! Always dig me some more Mckinnon content!
The image that had the light trails he closed down the aperture and ran a higher ISO. Example. The one without the star trails lets say is taken at A - 1.8 S - 13 seconds ISO - 1600 The same exposure at 44 minutes 22 seconds would be A - 6.3 ISO - 100 S - 44 minutes 22 seconds. You can get calculators for your phone that will figure that all out. He also should have mentioned to take that shorter exposure first to actually see if the foreground would be blown out. Nothing worse then spending an hour and a half waiting to find out the foreground didnt work.
Great question! It was pitch black, aperture was at f9 and I actually had my ISO low as to not raise the sensitivity of the sensor. The only light coming in to the frame was from the stars and the small small small light I had in the tent on the lowest setting. @Adam Christoffersen is right about the second photo - ISO much higher to make the photo brighter since the shutter was only open for 30 seconds. Thanks for watching!
Peter McKinnon that was dope AF! I always wondered how they did it and you explained it in such a simple and crisp manner. Love it. Keep up you amazing work.
For those trying to figure out what settings to use, here is a short explanation: Before doing this, learn about the basics of exposure of course. Because otherwise you can't decide how long your shutter should be open. There is no definite answer to it. Learn to adjust aperture, shutter speed and iso to expose the scene properly. Use aperture priority mode so that the camera adjusts shutter speed. Just take a shot with the widest aperture of your lens and set iso to 3200. For example, F/4 and iso 3200 are your settings and 15 seconds shutter speed gives you a well exposed photo. Then you should alter these settings so that the exposure stays the same but shutter speed becomes much longer. To do that, set your aperture to a bigger number and your iso to a smaller one. Let's say f/16 and iso 100. These settings make the exposure 9 stops darker. So, you should set the shutter speed 9 stops longer to achieve the same brightness. F/4 + iso 3200 + 15 seconds = F/16 + iso 100 + 128 minutes in terms of overall exposure (brightness). If you want to make it 64 minutes, then set the aperture to F/22 or iso to 50 if that is possible on your camera. If it's not, change aperture number again. These settings may seem confusing but they make sense when you understand aperture, iso, shutter speed and how they affect the brightness of an image. By the way, sorry if there are grammatical errors. English is not my strong point. Have a nice day.
There are apps you can get for your phone that you can figure out exposure length for you. Take that first shot. Punch in the settings you used and then start messing with the settings at the bottom till you get the time you want.
Peter, really loving the 2 Minute Tuesdays. HOWEVER! Please, please, PLEASE make this into a longer, more explained video. Would love to know more about ISO, lighting and much more. Thank you for another great video!
Thanks for taking the time to share some photography wisdom... the Two Minute Tuesdays are perfect packages for sharing. Keep it up! I cant wait to get out and try this.
Abhiviraj Singh I agree. My Nikon D5500 has a timer setting for the shutter @45 minutes f22 and iso 100 in most rural settings around here I would still get parts blown out.
Be that as it may, a word on those settings would be helpful for beginners to go out on a night shoot and spend an hour on a long exposure shot, and not end up with a completely blown out image.
But that's the beauty of it though. Experiment. If it were me on my camera(D810), I'd set my ISO to 31 and an aperture of f/16 for 45min. But someone with a lower end camera might need a higher ISO and a wider aperture. We don't learn unless we try :)
You can get the same effect by taking a series of shorter shots (say 4 minutes) and then stacking the images post. saves on the camera processing side.
Even when I put my focus to infinity, the stars are out of focus... any idea why? Also how do you get so many stars, like what time should I try for shots?
I focused this shot on the tent, not the stars. I always try to keep some sort of foreground object the focus point. Focusing on just the stars is SO hard to get them sharp! I struggle with it too!
Focus to infinity and then turn the focus ring back a little, the stars should now be in focus. If you want a lot of stars, you have to go somewhere far from any cities or other light sources, if you can get high up at the same time, all the better. Make sure it's a clear night (no clouds) and the moon isn't out. Basically you want to remove any light other than the stars and get as little noise between your lens and the sky (hence, no clouds). Point in case with Peter here, he went on top of a mountain, far from any city, on a clear night before/after the moon was out. It basically was the ideal situation for photographing stars.
Well there are some sites where you can find the light pollution % ... also try to shoot at a night without moon ... (or the "less" moon - moonlight the better) ... now for the focus I try to aim at a planet which is always the brighter thing in the sky and I try to make it as small as I can ( you know... not being blurry) ... hope I helped you
Good, short explanation Peter. I've done quite a few long trails as one shot, but I've changed tack. For star trails now, I'll shoot the 30 second shot-loads of them to be precise. Under a minute so the noise reduction doesn't activate. I then stack to get a star trail... and use the frames for a timelapse video.. Two birds. One stone.
How come the light coming from the tent doesn't over-expose the image after a 45-minute exposure?? How do you correctly expose an image in bulb mode in general? Anyway, an okay little video for inspiration, but the matter is way more complicated than you seem to point out here.
Andrew Power dude you saved my life I'm doing this tonight lol I borrowed a Sony NEX7 to try out and I'm gonna buy an a6300 so I have no equipment right now 😂😂
Magic Lantern for Canon 600D etc., has a built in intervalometer, it's free and has tons of cool extra features. Otherwise, take the photo on the longest exposure your camera allows as a timelapse and stack the images in photoshop to get trails. Point the camera directly at the North Star if you want your trails to be circular, as it is the only star in the Northern Hemisphere that doesn't move in relation to us.
I have a really old D70, and the way you get to bulb mode for me is to put it in manual and then keep turning up the shutter speed. Mine goes from 30 seconds to “bulb”.
ImRobPi which camera u have, I have nikon n first I have to put it in bulb mode n then lower the shutter speed all the way 30 sec n one more click n it's in bulb mode ...
It's really cool to do stuff with the bulb mode! I tried it on an analog camera ( a Minolta ). I created a very simple app, that is switching colors over the whole smartphone screen. This way I could stand in the dark and draw beautiful colored lines and later on it looked totally freaky with all the colors and the fade between the colors! You should really try to play with lights inside the bulb mode! :)
Love the 2 minute style video, and definitely gonna try out that long exposure! I recently uploaded a travel film that I shot in South Africa, would be awesome if you could watch it and give me some feedback. 👊🏼
Something tells me this was a set up to make sure he meets the YT Algorithm quota.. Because although it gave some insight. It wasn't as informative as it could have been. Ah well.. 🙇
Love how people jump to their own conclusions. lol. I'll enlighten you though -TMT is meant to be fast and fun. A bonus video on top of the weekly content I already produce. If you don't feel its informative enough, feel free to skip Tuesdays and wait fore the longer vids :) Also, 2 minutes isn't a very long time to fill with a LOT of information. Also, part of the fun. Thanks for watching!
Peter McKinnon there's no way to know how informative it is unless you watch the whole video of course, but I get what you're saying 😉. It's true, 2 minutes isn't a very long time to provide any significant amount of technical information. But it was a fun two minutes 👌🏾
Yep. Seems to be a long exposure shot that he did on the trip this week. Didn't have content for 2 minute tuesday and just posted this half assed. Not giving a care about f-stop and iso values.
Francesco Petaccia he most likely( 99.999999% chance which is close to 100%) used a slow aperture( f20 or there about) hence this provides a field of view where everything is in focus or seems to be in focus to the naked eye. So he did not have had to focus. Just point and shoot for 45 minutes.
nice idea, the 2 Minute timer, but I dont mind watching your Videos for 15-20 minutes since they are always packed with information and nice shots so it doest get boring
Apart from the bomb intro and this cool 2 minute trend, I'm in awe knowing that you can actually leave the shutter open for that long, I'm definitely trying this sometime.
I used to make "Two Minute Tip" videos for my old Boy Scout troop, and I was possibly going to do something like that for TH-cam, but I just found your channel and I am just seeing your "Two Minute Tuesday" video for the first time. I may still go ahead and make these videos for myself so I hope that is something you're perfectly okay with. You've also acted as a huge inspiration in the past week and I have binge watched so many of your videos. Keep it up man, you deserve so much!
It seems that Peter's idea involves what is known as the Long Exposure NR removal, which takes an equivalent length black shot and subtracts the noise. I prefer taking a similar dark shot with the lens cap on later and use the two files in Photoshop with the black on top and layer mode set to Subtract. One more catch it, using such a long method it's difficult to say when the highlights in some part of the shot may be blow out (other than the stars) so I usually take hundreds of shots anywhere between 5 to 20 second each (exposing for the foreground and to make sure the stars are just dots) using the intervalometer, take one dark shot of equivalent length for the subtraction. Bunch up all the small shots on top of each other and use the layer mode Lighten to create the trail. Subtract the dark layer. This tends to be faster because I can check the exposure in advance. Then I can use all the images to even create a star trail time lapse.
The only issue with doing it this way is you always risk completely blowing out foreground elements due to light and you wont know it till you spend the hour and a half needed to do the shot. Should maybe bring up to make a quick exposure of the foreground by opening the lens all the way and then cranking the iso. The image might be noisy and the stars wont be streaky but at least you can know if the scene is too bright. Once you know the foreground will be fine then calculate the same exposure (there are some decent apps that will figure out the same exposure just longer for you). The photoshop version is take multiple frames and import them into photoshop and set the blending mode to lighten. If you group them all together you can add a mask to the ground and basically mask in the parts that you want the long exposure effect
1:10 it took another 45 mins to process because the long exposure NR is turned on, it take another exact same exposure time and ISO for "dark frame", that dark frame will be then used for mapping the noise and hot pixels for cleaning the first exposure. And the another ++ minutes is the time the computer need to process and save the final image to memory card. It will be far more efficient if you take that dark frame (or frames) yourself, and then process it on computer.
You're likely to get better results in average conditions by taking a sequence of multiple images, say at 30 seconds each and stacking them in PS. The problem with having an extra long exposure is the introduction of thermal noise, noise created by heat building up on the sensor. The freezing conditions in which Peter has taken the photo should negate some of the thermal noise but not all of it. If you do decide to take an image sequence instead, you will need to turn off 'Long exposure noise reduction' in the camera's menu to stop the camera from processing the image after it is captured. If it is left on you will see gaps in your star trails. Image stacking is also a method of reducing noise in astrophotography, by averaging the exposures.
Very nice tutorial. Adding this to my knowledge of aperture and ISO and my star photos should be as lot better this year. My camera has a built-in bulb timer apparently that I can start with just my phone's app remote and set the amount of time I want the shutter to be open. Pretty cool!
I you dont have a >B< option on your camera, go into manual mode (The >MBULB< (For Canon users, dont know if this applies to Nikon or Sony or anything else)
Two Minute Tuesdays! It's our new thing! Dig it?! :) - UPDATE: You guys wanted to know the camera settings for the star trail shot - My Aperture was at F9 so the depth wasn't shallow. My ISO was set to 160 (wanted it low since I would be exposing so long). Left the shutter open for exactly 2,488 seconds - 41 minutes. It didn't blow out because it was pitch black.. the only real light bleeding into the photo was from the stars and the SMALL light I had on inside the tent (which was on the lowest possible power setting - even still it illuminated the whole area around the tent. So cool!) it was shot at 16mm Focal length on a 1DXMK2. :)
Peter McKinnon love it!
Peter McKinnon 1st one to watch it !! the jacket looks cool on u like a movie actor
I thought I was the first comment I was a couple seconds late 😂😂
I can get behind it.
oooohhh yeahhh!!!
That intro tho!
Why does this comment only have 5 likes..?
@@CollinStimpson because
@@herbalgiles9468 oh okay
Hi Chris! Love you vids!
An amazing tutorial, Peter. However, here's a little tip to those individuals, who don't have the dedication or patience to wait for hours while their camera is capturing. You can take multiple exposure, say 10 second each, then stack them all into photoshop and blend them all together. it would reduce the amount of time required to wait for your camera to process a single image. Also, it would allow more flexibility in post-processing like the highlights, shadows, whites, blacks, and etc. There's another reason why i recommend this technique because there has been several times, when someone or something jumps into the shot, and if i was taking one long exposure; i would be force to start over, but if taking multiple images i can simply stop or wait for the camera to finish and delete that single image.
I agree with the people saying that you need to be more descriptive but I also understand that in two minutes you are creating content that people watch in its entirety that keeps them hooked through the whole thing. It inspired me and now I can look through the comments or research further if I have any questions. Love the new weekly series Peter!
This is possibly the only one I've seen where it's actually 2 minutes 😂. I'll definitely be doing these in winter
You are getting better and better in your videos and I'm just loving it ! The best photography and videography youtuber in youtube history! LOVE YOUR STYLEEE!
If you use stacking instead of open shutter you get less noise and you can exclude shaken and unwanted frames
Or you could use a tripod (or set your camera down on a surface)
who would shoot long exposures hand held tho? Even with bracketing you need a tripod
Camera shake is not exclusive to handheld shooting. There are many things that can introduce shake on a tripod, such as wind or a car diving nearby. Sandbags would be ideal in any long exposure situation.
The benefit of using interval shooting and stacking is that you don't run the risk of your sensor getting hot enough to start introducing noise and hot pixels. And you could remove things such as an airplane flying overhead and creating unwanted trails. Surprised Peter didn't talk about this since he even showed an intervalometer.
New subscriber & fellow photographer here (I know my channel doesn't show it), but I had a tip for others. Yes, this will work keeping the shutter open for 45 minutes or however long you want. But, this can be very risky (in the sense of wasting time) if the camera gets bumped or nudged by anything. Even a strong gust of wind and a weak tripod could blur the entire exposure. What I would recommend is do several shorter exposures (30 seconds to a minute long) and then string the exposures together in post using something like a program called StarStax (completely free). Yes, this does add post work, but I would rather be safe than sorry. Plus if you are doing this where there may be planes or other objects flying through the sky that may ruin your trails, you can always just take out that image and re-string them together! The program is quite good at filling in the gaps that are left between exposures. You can even turn off noise reduction on your camera to extremely decrease that long processing time after the image is taken. Love your videos so far man! I look forward to more!
wow, this video is *2:23* but felt *30 seconds*
Love it though
Cold nights, long exposure times, photos getting blown out accidently. Nighttime photography is a blessing and a curse. My oh, oh my do I love photography!
Quick rule of thumb for star trails. Take 500 and divide by the focal length of the lens, this will give you a ballpark of when the stars start to trail in seconds. So a 50mm lens will start to show trails around 10 seconds. 300mm you get about 2 seconds.
Siiiick! Love me some new types of video. Quick and dirty little tips and tricks. The upside about these, you can push these out rather often if you feel like! Always dig me some more Mckinnon content!
Noob question. If the 2nd photo is properly exposed at 30s. How come the 45m exposure isn't massively overexposed?
Dan Ryan He set the iso much higher on the second photograph.
The image that had the light trails he closed down the aperture and ran a higher ISO.
Example. The one without the star trails lets say is taken at
A - 1.8
S - 13 seconds
ISO - 1600
The same exposure at 44 minutes 22 seconds would be
A - 6.3
ISO - 100
S - 44 minutes 22 seconds.
You can get calculators for your phone that will figure that all out. He also should have mentioned to take that shorter exposure first to actually see if the foreground would be blown out. Nothing worse then spending an hour and a half waiting to find out the foreground didnt work.
Great question! It was pitch black, aperture was at f9 and I actually had my ISO low as to not raise the sensitivity of the sensor. The only light coming in to the frame was from the stars and the small small small light I had in the tent on the lowest setting. @Adam Christoffersen is right about the second photo - ISO much higher to make the photo brighter since the shutter was only open for 30 seconds. Thanks for watching!
Peter McKinnon Cheers Peter. Top stuff as always
Adam Christoffersen thanks Adam much appreciated
Peter McKinnon that was dope AF! I always wondered how they did it and you explained it in such a simple and crisp manner. Love it. Keep up you amazing work.
Love to see you keep updating yourself (the intro, music, speech, timing, and that Jacket though,...aff!!)
The new Episode of Peter Mckinnon.
That's a great tip Peter! I'll have to give it a try. That light coming from the tent is amazing!
2 Minute Tuesday is the best day #COFFEE
Great video man!
Love your no-nonsense quick tips. Everything I need in two minutes. Now to wait for nighttime...
I'm digging two minute Tuesdays! Best invention since taco tuesdays!
How do you get the tent exposed properly? Flash?
This was so cool!!! I love this idea! I'm thinking tuesdays are going to become my favorite day of the week now haha! thanks Peter!
Long exposure shots are awesome !
For those trying to figure out what settings to use, here is a short explanation:
Before doing this, learn about the basics of exposure of course. Because otherwise you can't decide how long your shutter should be open. There is no definite answer to it. Learn to adjust aperture, shutter speed and iso to expose the scene properly.
Use aperture priority mode so that the camera adjusts shutter speed. Just take a shot with the widest aperture of your lens and set iso to 3200. For example, F/4 and iso 3200 are your settings and 15 seconds shutter speed gives you a well exposed photo. Then you should alter these settings so that the exposure stays the same but shutter speed becomes much longer. To do that, set your aperture to a bigger number and your iso to a smaller one. Let's say f/16 and iso 100. These settings make the exposure 9 stops darker.
So, you should set the shutter speed 9 stops longer to achieve the same brightness. F/4 + iso 3200 + 15 seconds = F/16 + iso 100 + 128 minutes in terms of overall exposure (brightness). If you want to make it 64 minutes, then set the aperture to F/22 or iso to 50 if that is possible on your camera. If it's not, change aperture number again.
These settings may seem confusing but they make sense when you understand aperture, iso, shutter speed and how they affect the brightness of an image.
By the way, sorry if there are grammatical errors. English is not my strong point. Have a nice day.
There are apps you can get for your phone that you can figure out exposure length for you. Take that first shot. Punch in the settings you used and then start messing with the settings at the bottom till you get the time you want.
David Penner what is the name of the app? Sounds like something I need
USAsomeone the one Ive got for my phone is called exposure calculator..
those cinematic shots and music 🔥
first world problems... yeah we're freezing cold sitting in a helicopter...
FullSpectrumSurvival Helicopter ain't shit if you die of hypothermia
Using 1000 tons co2 for 1 picture.
Peter, really loving the 2 Minute Tuesdays. HOWEVER! Please, please, PLEASE make this into a longer, more explained video. Would love to know more about ISO, lighting and much more. Thank you for another great video!
Updated my pinned comment with settings!
Cool new intro, love it! Could you tell us how you make these intros? I'd really like to know!
Looks like it made in After effects.
But yes, interesting subject for tutorial :)
I'd love to see that :)
SUBSCRIBE ME. THANK YOU.
yeah we need that toutorial
SUBSCRIBE ME. THANKS A LOT!
I'm digging this new Two Minute Tuesday thing!
Two minute Tuesday!!! Genius!!!
Two minute Tuesdays is an incredible concept!
hey Peter, can you please explain how you lit the tent, and how you knew that the tent was going to be the right exposure and not way over exposed!
I'm no camera expert or anything, I don't even have a camera... but I really enjoy the way you do stuff!! you're just GENIUS!!
Am I missing something, or is "2-Minute Tuesday" a new thing? I need to come up with some clever shorts...
Thanks for taking the time to share some photography wisdom... the Two Minute Tuesdays are perfect packages for sharing. Keep it up! I cant wait to get out and try this.
You're not even talking about the ISO or aperture settings here. Just the super long shutter speed alone is not enough.
Abhiviraj Singh I agree. My Nikon D5500 has a timer setting for the shutter @45 minutes f22 and iso 100 in most rural settings around here I would still get parts blown out.
Abhiviraj Singh it's not a tutorial
Be that as it may, a word on those settings would be helpful for beginners to go out on a night shoot and spend an hour on a long exposure shot, and not end up with a completely blown out image.
Abhiviraj Singh I agree. Im guessing f22 is a must. A 45 minute exposure will definitely blow out
But that's the beauty of it though. Experiment. If it were me on my camera(D810), I'd set my ISO to 31 and an aperture of f/16 for 45min. But someone with a lower end camera might need a higher ISO and a wider aperture. We don't learn unless we try :)
Thanks Peter! Just got the remote and learned how to set my camera to bulb mode! Looking forward to the next trip!
What if my battery dies while processing the image?
😥
Ibai Alberdi Well that would suck.
You can get the same effect by taking a series of shorter shots (say 4 minutes) and then stacking the images post. saves on the camera processing side.
Ibai Alberdi use a battery grip.....I guess it might work
Then you have a Sony
you got totally changed even outfit... superb congrats man PETE !!!...
Even when I put my focus to infinity, the stars are out of focus... any idea why? Also how do you get so many stars, like what time should I try for shots?
I focused this shot on the tent, not the stars. I always try to keep some sort of foreground object the focus point. Focusing on just the stars is SO hard to get them sharp! I struggle with it too!
Focus to infinity and then turn the focus ring back a little, the stars should now be in focus. If you want a lot of stars, you have to go somewhere far from any cities or other light sources, if you can get high up at the same time, all the better. Make sure it's a clear night (no clouds) and the moon isn't out. Basically you want to remove any light other than the stars and get as little noise between your lens and the sky (hence, no clouds). Point in case with Peter here, he went on top of a mountain, far from any city, on a clear night before/after the moon was out. It basically was the ideal situation for photographing stars.
Well there are some sites where you can find the light pollution % ... also try to shoot at a night without moon ... (or the "less" moon - moonlight the better) ... now for the focus I try to aim at a planet which is always the brighter thing in the sky and I try to make it as small as I can ( you know... not being blurry) ... hope I helped you
Fan freakin tastic tutorial, I knew how all of this worked but it was nice getting a refresher and hearing it from you, great job again!
Intro changed cool
yeah looks sweet think its because its going to be a new series :D
Good, short explanation Peter. I've done quite a few long trails as one shot, but I've changed tack. For star trails now, I'll shoot the 30 second shot-loads of them to be precise. Under a minute so the noise reduction doesn't activate. I then stack to get a star trail... and use the frames for a timelapse video.. Two birds. One stone.
How come the light coming from the tent doesn't over-expose the image after a 45-minute exposure?? How do you correctly expose an image in bulb mode in general?
Anyway, an okay little video for inspiration, but the matter is way more complicated than you seem to point out here.
Nd filter. Simple as that
So not really explained in full then!
This new 2 minutes format is awesome!
If you don't have access to a tripod (or forgot to bring it) you can also use a shoe. Seriously.
i do that with my phone
Andrew Power dude you saved my life I'm doing this tonight lol I borrowed a Sony NEX7 to try out and I'm gonna buy an a6300 so I have no equipment right now 😂😂
I use a chair 😅
and freeze your feet off? no thanks
Magic Lantern for Canon 600D etc., has a built in intervalometer, it's free and has tons of cool extra features. Otherwise, take the photo on the longest exposure your camera allows as a timelapse and stack the images in photoshop to get trails. Point the camera directly at the North Star if you want your trails to be circular, as it is the only star in the Northern Hemisphere that doesn't move in relation to us.
Im usually late to everything except a Peter McKinnon video
Almighty Peter has blessed us with another video. Thanks for fueling my love and thirst for photography❤
Anyone know how this would be done with a Nikon? I don't believe I've seen that setting.
I have a really old D70, and the way you get to bulb mode for me is to put it in manual and then keep turning up the shutter speed. Mine goes from 30 seconds to “bulb”.
Zach Fiorito Oh thanks, I'll have to try this out some night.
ImRobPi no problem :)
ImRobPi which camera u have, I have nikon n first I have to put it in bulb mode n then lower the shutter speed all the way 30 sec n one more click n it's in bulb mode ...
Taser Face that’s what I just said lol
Your intros and outros improved since the last time I watched one of your videos, good job. :)
dope
Thank you so much Peter!!! I always wondered how photographers created long exposures like this.
#Notification Gang ?
Very cool, love the quick compact format, nice addition to the normal videos
Legend has it if you're early enough, Peter will comment back.
It's really cool to do stuff with the bulb mode!
I tried it on an analog camera ( a Minolta ). I created a very simple app, that is switching colors over the whole smartphone screen. This way I could stand in the dark and draw beautiful colored lines and later on it looked totally freaky with all the colors and the fade between the colors!
You should really try to play with lights inside the bulb mode! :)
Love the 2 minute style video, and definitely gonna try out that long exposure! I recently uploaded a travel film that I shot in South Africa, would be awesome if you could watch it and give me some feedback. 👊🏼
This was dope. I think 2 minute Tuesdays is going to be a hit
Something tells me this was a set up to make sure he meets the YT Algorithm quota.. Because although it gave some insight. It wasn't as informative as it could have been. Ah well.. 🙇
Love how people jump to their own conclusions. lol. I'll enlighten you though -TMT is meant to be fast and fun. A bonus video on top of the weekly content I already produce. If you don't feel its informative enough, feel free to skip Tuesdays and wait fore the longer vids :) Also, 2 minutes isn't a very long time to fill with a LOT of information. Also, part of the fun. Thanks for watching!
Peter McKinnon there's no way to know how informative it is unless you watch the whole video of course, but I get what you're saying 😉. It's true, 2 minutes isn't a very long time to provide any significant amount of technical information. But it was a fun two minutes 👌🏾
I dig it Peter! this format is really cool. I think a much better home for your tutorial videos. Thanks for the inspiring content dude.
Sorry but this video is not very informative. No camera settings explained. This is only good for entertainment but not as a lesson.
Yep. Seems to be a long exposure shot that he did on the trip this week. Didn't have content for 2 minute tuesday and just posted this half assed. Not giving a care about f-stop and iso values.
Glad you were entertained haha. These new TMT's are meant to be fast & fun. Updated pinned comment with photo settings :) Thanks for watching!
i mean it helped me out thank you man
phil you can easily search for a long ass explanation
Peter McKinnon did you focused on the stars or how? I want to try and I need that info plz.
Francesco Petaccia he most likely( 99.999999% chance which is close to 100%) used a slow aperture( f20 or there about) hence this provides a field of view where everything is in focus or seems to be in focus to the naked eye. So he did not have had to focus. Just point and shoot for 45 minutes.
two Minute Tuesdays love love love this corner. you made just tow videos and them just toch the right spot . keep it motivated
Love the concept of the Two Minute Tuesdays! Keep it up man!
nice idea, the 2 Minute timer, but I dont mind watching your Videos for 15-20 minutes since they are always packed with information and nice shots so it doest get boring
Always learning something new from this guy!
Best 2 mins of life well spent
Apart from the bomb intro and this cool 2 minute trend, I'm in awe knowing that you can actually leave the shutter open for that long, I'm definitely trying this sometime.
I used to make "Two Minute Tip" videos for my old Boy Scout troop, and I was possibly going to do something like that for TH-cam, but I just found your channel and I am just seeing your "Two Minute Tuesday" video for the first time. I may still go ahead and make these videos for myself so I hope that is something you're perfectly okay with. You've also acted as a huge inspiration in the past week and I have binge watched so many of your videos. Keep it up man, you deserve so much!
Should've read the description, I didn't realize it was your first time doing this style of video.
Hey Peter,
Two minute tuesdays are amazing, love the new series!
Woooah?! That was too good! Well done. Loved the pace and the info
Gotta love the new into/outro feel
I love long exposure it's cool to see if the picture will come out or not.
It seems that Peter's idea involves what is known as the Long Exposure NR removal, which takes an equivalent length black shot and subtracts the noise. I prefer taking a similar dark shot with the lens cap on later and use the two files in Photoshop with the black on top and layer mode set to Subtract. One more catch it, using such a long method it's difficult to say when the highlights in some part of the shot may be blow out (other than the stars) so I usually take hundreds of shots anywhere between 5 to 20 second each (exposing for the foreground and to make sure the stars are just dots) using the intervalometer, take one dark shot of equivalent length for the subtraction. Bunch up all the small shots on top of each other and use the layer mode Lighten to create the trail. Subtract the dark layer. This tends to be faster because I can check the exposure in advance. Then I can use all the images to even create a star trail time lapse.
Loving this 2 min Tuesday. thanks Pete.
I can't stop watching your videos...I love them
The only issue with doing it this way is you always risk completely blowing out foreground elements due to light and you wont know it till you spend the hour and a half needed to do the shot. Should maybe bring up to make a quick exposure of the foreground by opening the lens all the way and then cranking the iso. The image might be noisy and the stars wont be streaky but at least you can know if the scene is too bright. Once you know the foreground will be fine then calculate the same exposure (there are some decent apps that will figure out the same exposure just longer for you).
The photoshop version is take multiple frames and import them into photoshop and set the blending mode to lighten. If you group them all together you can add a mask to the ground and basically mask in the parts that you want the long exposure effect
I absolutely dig the new intro as well as 2 minute-tuesdays! 😃
More of this please, master! 🙌
Fast and helpful! This Two Minute Tuesdays is gonna be superb!
Oh and does anyone know any apps for a smartphone that can do long exposures?
Thank you for making creative videos like this, and explaining it in such an easy way!
Love the two minute Tuesday! And really good tips here again brother, thank you.
HELL YES!!! *LITERALLY* JUST WHAT I WAS *LOOKING FOR*!
You are really amazing when it comes on editing man😄👏
I am such a huge fan of your channel Peter! Thak you so much for sharing this.
love the idea of two-minute videos. great new thing bro
1:10 it took another 45 mins to process because the long exposure NR is turned on, it take another exact same exposure time and ISO for "dark frame", that dark frame will be then used for mapping the noise and hot pixels for cleaning the first exposure. And the another ++ minutes is the time the computer need to process and save the final image to memory card. It will be far more efficient if you take that dark frame (or frames) yourself, and then process it on computer.
You're likely to get better results in average conditions by taking a sequence of multiple images, say at 30 seconds each and stacking them in PS.
The problem with having an extra long exposure is the introduction of thermal noise, noise created by heat building up on the sensor. The freezing conditions in which Peter has taken the photo should negate some of the thermal noise but not all of it.
If you do decide to take an image sequence instead, you will need to turn off 'Long exposure noise reduction' in the camera's menu to stop the camera from processing the image after it is captured. If it is left on you will see gaps in your star trails.
Image stacking is also a method of reducing noise in astrophotography, by averaging the exposures.
This guy has something going... His content is insanely good
hmmmm let me try doing a long exposure. this is really worth trying 😄 thanks pete! your tuts are one of best! 😄 this new segment of yours is cool haha
wow wow! new segment! cool Pete!
This might just be my favorite segment yet!
Awesome video, I lvoe your screenshots and i love your photography!
Very nice tutorial. Adding this to my knowledge of aperture and ISO and my star photos should be as lot better this year. My camera has a built-in bulb timer apparently that I can start with just my phone's app remote and set the amount of time I want the shutter to be open. Pretty cool!
It's this moment of happiness every time I see that Peter has uploaded a new video
I you dont have a >B< option on your camera, go into manual mode (The >MBULB<
(For Canon users, dont know if this applies to Nikon or Sony or anything else)
Cool another one of my favourite channels doing a Two Minute Tuesday :)
Peter is the 🐐
Brilliant, found the coolest guy on TH-cam! In before one million!!
Really great shot...that's for sharing Pete! ❤️✌️
I like two minute Tuesdays. Thanks Pete :)
You're a great cinematographer and it makes me feel proud that you're my teacher. :)