I agree, it's unlikely it would have a closed a wound of that size. My purpose in this video is to illustrate that leaving a stub doesn't make the situation any better, as some folks might suggest.
@sx-mt-fd my reply was to Zach. I'm in agreement with you. If the ebay went back let's say 10" from the stub, a collar cut would've meant 10" of decay into the stem.
Personal opinion: no stubs. If you have to cut a big limb, go back periodically to “irritate” the edges of the wound to make it heal all the way across the wound. It must have 100% coverage or it WILL rot. Paint or prune sprays aren’t permanent. 🫡
I believe it's generally accepted that most sealing attempts to seal end grain manually tend to retard callus wood growth. Doesn't mean it's not the appropriate solution sometimes, just maybe that it's not always the appropriate solution.
Ideally you cut it off at the branch collar, just outside the trunk itself. The tree will be able to completely encapsulate that wound leaving it completely protected with bark. Angle of cut isn’t what we’re concerned with. This is a silver maple, which are poor healers and some of the more fragile trees out there. The wound is large. No matter what was done, this tree was goijg to have rot issues a decade down the line. They can’t recover from such a large prune.
Glad to see this perpective. Im just a casual home pruner with some old growth trees as well as young trees. I want to keep em all healthy. In all my casual reading I've never read that you should leave a stub, regardless of diameter. So all of my cuts have been close to the trees. Feeling a tick better about that.
You're doing the right right. All the literature I've read on the matter has always consistently said to cut right outside of the collar. Trees have special tissue in the collar to help them heal from wounds caused by natural limb loss.
Trees have been self pruning for a really long time. Long before chain saws. Long before ladders. Long before hand saws and axes. It foolish to think the decision we make are in the best interest of the tree. Trees don’t need pruning People need pruning.
Silver maple is a softer variety of hardwood. Long life span is relative. If left on their own, they will live pretty long. But like many species, they will live the later half of their life in decline. A tree in decline is often unsafe for an urban environment. They are poor at compartmentalization. The wood often decays before a wound can be healed. They are generally fast growers.
@bucketinabag You're right, we prune trees for people, we don't prune trees for trees. The exception is structural pruning on a young tree that sets it up to grow a strong structure that will help it stand through harsh weather.
@zaccheus - There are over 100 native tree species in New Jersey, and at least 8 of them will simply not heal. Depending on the overall condition of the specific tree I'm working, as well as aesthetic considerations (i.e., if it doesn't need to look good), I will leave a certain amount of stub. This is pretty much always with the intention of coming back at a later time, and trimming back to a point which is closer to, or at, the point of just past the branch-bark-collar, like a standard cut. This is so that even if the wood dos not heal, at least it has a chance to dry out and harden up, and then get tidied up.
There are some pruning sealers out there. It's generally accepted that most foreign substances retard the growth of healing callus wood. Sealing the wound is sometimes necessary to prevent disease intrusion. A find example of that is when pruning an storm damaged oak tree during oak wilt season.
@zaccheus well said..so only when necessary. Mother nature has taken care of herself long before we ever invented a "sealer." We would never put a bandaid on a wound only to leave it there and fester an infection. I'm not quite sure why a prune sealer is considered a cure all for unproper pruning to some.
@@geoffreygreen297 went to e.r...they ct scan ..have intestinal isdue infection ..whats causing pain .they gave me i.v and medicine..and takeing others hopeing clear out the pain so cam work ..thanks man
No way the silver maple would've compartmentalized over that wound anyway. Rot would set in closer to the tree if they had cut it to the bark collar.
I agree, it's unlikely it would have a closed a wound of that size. My purpose in this video is to illustrate that leaving a stub doesn't make the situation any better, as some folks might suggest.
Your logic is flawed. Had the initial pruning cut been made at the collar, the decay could've been the same depth, but it would've been into the stem.
@@joenewton1988 Technically, it's all speculation and no logic without two repeatable examples to compare.
@@joenewton1988 how could it be the same depth but one is in the stem and not the other?
@sx-mt-fd my reply was to Zach. I'm in agreement with you. If the ebay went back let's say 10" from the stub, a collar cut would've meant 10" of decay into the stem.
Personal opinion: no stubs. If you have to cut a big limb, go back periodically to “irritate” the edges of the wound to make it heal all the way across the wound. It must have 100% coverage or it WILL rot. Paint or prune sprays aren’t permanent. 🫡
Stub cuts, flush cuts, you see em everyday
Absolutely. Most of the time by well intentioned folks who just didn't have all the information they needed.
I would trim close to the trunk with a sharp downward slope to prevent holding water in the crotch, than use wax to seal till the callus wood forms
I believe it's generally accepted that most sealing attempts to seal end grain manually tend to retard callus wood growth. Doesn't mean it's not the appropriate solution sometimes, just maybe that it's not always the appropriate solution.
In my personal experience, leaving stubs does nothing for the health of the tree.
I thought you were supposed to cut in an angle that would drip water AWAY from the cut not towards the cut?
Ideally you cut it off at the branch collar, just outside the trunk itself. The tree will be able to completely encapsulate that wound leaving it completely protected with bark. Angle of cut isn’t what we’re concerned with.
This is a silver maple, which are poor healers and some of the more fragile trees out there. The wound is large. No matter what was done, this tree was goijg to have rot issues a decade down the line. They can’t recover from such a large prune.
@@WildAcresFarms👍
Never stub them like that folks.
Glad to see this perpective. Im just a casual home pruner with some old growth trees as well as young trees. I want to keep em all healthy. In all my casual reading I've never read that you should leave a stub, regardless of diameter. So all of my cuts have been close to the trees. Feeling a tick better about that.
You're doing the right right. All the literature I've read on the matter has always consistently said to cut right outside of the collar. Trees have special tissue in the collar to help them heal from wounds caused by natural limb loss.
Only with pecan trees
Pruning cuts gentlemen
Gp says...we dont want no stubs
11
Is silver maple a hard wood? Do they have long life spans ? Are the good compartmenlizers ?
Trees have been self pruning for a really long time. Long before chain saws. Long before ladders. Long before hand saws and axes. It foolish to think the decision we make are in the best interest of the tree.
Trees don’t need pruning
People need pruning.
Silver maple is a softer variety of hardwood. Long life span is relative. If left on their own, they will live pretty long. But like many species, they will live the later half of their life in decline. A tree in decline is often unsafe for an urban environment. They are poor at compartmentalization. The wood often decays before a wound can be healed. They are generally fast growers.
@bucketinabag You're right, we prune trees for people, we don't prune trees for trees. The exception is structural pruning on a young tree that sets it up to grow a strong structure that will help it stand through harsh weather.
Thanks for sharing
The obvious answer is, it depends.
@samuelluria4744 In what scenario do you leave a stub to prevent decay and promote fast healing?
@zaccheus - There are over 100 native tree species in New Jersey, and at least 8 of them will simply not heal. Depending on the overall condition of the specific tree I'm working, as well as aesthetic considerations (i.e., if it doesn't need to look good), I will leave a certain amount of stub. This is pretty much always with the intention of coming back at a later time, and trimming back to a point which is closer to, or at, the point of just past the branch-bark-collar, like a standard cut. This is so that even if the wood dos not heal, at least it has a chance to dry out and harden up, and then get tidied up.
@@samuelluria4744 I gotcha. I can't say I'd be willing to follow that practice, but I can see where your thinking is.
Is there some kind of paint like substance that helps the tree heal & keep stuff from getting into it?
There are some pruning sealers out there. It's generally accepted that most foreign substances retard the growth of healing callus wood. Sealing the wound is sometimes necessary to prevent disease intrusion. A find example of that is when pruning an storm damaged oak tree during oak wilt season.
@zaccheus well said..so only when necessary. Mother nature has taken care of herself long before we ever invented a "sealer."
We would never put a bandaid on a wound only to leave it there and fester an infection. I'm not quite sure why a prune sealer is considered a cure all for unproper pruning to some.
Yep
@@Sethhaun78 hope you’re feeling better.
@@geoffreygreen297 went to e.r...they ct scan ..have intestinal isdue infection ..whats causing pain .they gave me i.v and medicine..and takeing others hopeing clear out the pain so cam work ..thanks man
Laterals people, laterals
Can you elaborate on what you're saying there?