Nice idea. I just don’t like using the foam filler. It’s really messy, and once you open a can you pretty much have to throw it away as it’s so hard to stop the tube and valve getting gummed up permanently. I agree with an earlier post, my method would be to drill a hole through the board and into the wall. Push a raw plug into the wall and then use a countersunk screw to hold the board onto the wall. Fill the screw head with filler, rub down and paint. No one mentions that it’s probably the radiator causing the problem by drying out one side of the board so that it shrinks and warps so that the ends spring off the wall. Kinda shows that the board wasn’t secured very well to the wall in the first place.
Use WD-40 to clean the nozzle and pipe straight after usage. It's a bit of a pain but saves having to throw the foam away and repeated trips to the merchants and wasted money.
You need to invest in a proper gun. They can be left months as they're pressurised. This one can be cleaned with gun cleaner or taken apart if badly blocked. You get more control with these too. www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ABP546Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SdQyFbABD4NHE
@@SteS I don't know about the OP but I'm a handyman and I have call to use expanding foam twice a year, if that. It's worth the ten minute faff cleaning it after using it to avoid having to pay for and store yet another specialist tool. But I would certainly agree, these guns are defintely the way to go if you have to use EF with any regularity at all.
@@trevhib saves on throwing out a full can of foam. Last time I bought one and cleaned it out after use. Went to use it after two weeks. Nothing. I swore a little then went straight onto amazon. So far this thing hasn't blocked when I went to it. The gun stays on the can so it doesn't really take up much extra space.
@@SteS Yeah, they are good. I guess it comes down to how thorough the clean is. I'm still on my first can, I've now used it three times the last 2.5yrs and there's still 50% left. I must admit the latest time I did have to mess around with the outlet/valve on the can which had gunged up but in my situation I've found no requirement for a gun thus far.
In this situation I’ve drilled through the lower part of the skirting with a wood drill and countersink the hole then drill into the brick through the same hole with a masonry drill then push a Rawl plug in and tighten up with a screw pulling the skirting board back against the wall and finish off with a bit of filler to cover the screw head and the top of the skirting where needed
Does work and its how I always did it on big cracks, but I've found another faster alternative now. Use a Hybrid polymer such as CT1, OB1 or THE WORKS. Basically use like caulk. Glues the skirting to the wall and is permanently flexible, insanely strong and fully Paintable. Easy to apply and clean up and most are paintable in an hour or two.
Great job 👍 I filled mine with cornflour mixed with water 👍after it set I used Philadelphia and gelatine leaves to give it a nice clean level finish ⭐️I had no paint to finish the job so used the white out of a cream egg which I thought worked wonders 👍the dog keeps licking the skirting board 🐾
I have the EXACT same moulding of skirting/architrave as you, the EXACT same problem and the way the skirting meets the architrave is IDENTICAL to my home. Who knows, perhaps our houses could've been built by the same people. Very good helpful video btw
After watching this video some months ago I have taken to using the foam where possible in this kind of scenario. It works excellently. Thanks for the tip.
@@Rhiannah1000 expanding foam around 5£/£8 for a large canister it can be messy if not careful.its very sticky etc just be careful and all will be good
@@Rhiannah1000 The foam is Soudal Gap Filling Foam - Hand Held 750ml. Be careful and there are a few types. This one should cost you about £5 - £7. I got mine yesterday from screwfix on offer for £5.59 It's good stuff. Be careful as you can get different types from the same company for other uses and they cost a lot more - FYI
I have a three bedroom house, the whole house is been redecorated, all the woodwork gloss needs to be keyed up, skirting, door casing, doors, I'm using 120 gritt by hand, at the moment, feels like hard work, going to use scuff x satin brushed on as the finishing coat , but is there a better or quicker method, maybe using a detail sander or a sheet sander, or is that going to over key it?
People have different methods. As long as the outcome is a satisfactory repair - it matters not. It's his home and only a skirting board - not the Empire State Building.
More and more customers are asking me to use this method because they are sick of people using caulk and watching it crack open after 6 months. Not what you want when your paying good money. I’ve been working on a refurb since April this year. I’ve used the foam and filler method. I’m still on and off that refurb and the new wood skirting boards and frames still have not cracked and that’s almost 6 months in a building where there has been drilling, plastering, plumbing etc all types of heavy movement in the building and it still has stood firm. I never use decorators caulk now.
@@PaintingandDecoratinghowever it is a battle with some customers who don’t appreciate it and just would rather you caulk it, paint it and forget about it 😂
For a quick fix, that's ok can take a long time to dry, and some emulsion paints will crack. Caulk is not suitable to fill any depth or wide gaps. Caulk is best for fine filling certain fine gaps in woodwork..
I am here just looking around to see what people are doing to fix baseboards. The DeWalt multitool does an okay job of removing caulk. They have caulk removal blades but I am using blades made for metal and wood but being careful not to go into the wood. I am around half way done removing the old caulk... I have had some luck using a Dremel with Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone. It removes hard caulk and caked up paint. Have extra batteries ready if you are using a Dremel without a plug. Wear a dust mask for sure. It is really tempting to rip that sucker off the wall and put new wood on. :-)
Foam expands so pushes the board out, use a few screws and a flexable filler as pollyfilla would then crackson that type of job, ok for patching small holes and cracks on walls. Poor quality job indeed...
Hi mate. Your advice and videos are great and have been my go to for decorating my house! I have an issue with painting over new caulk on the skirting board. When emulsioning the walls also emuslsioned the caulking line-the emulsion has started cracking in these areas. How would you recommend dealing with it?
Thanks, my rented flat has holes and gaps on the skating floor and my landlady is an ass so watching your video gave me hope. I wish I can send you videos so you can see how good they look now thanks to you.
A) gripfill or b) expanding foam, but watch all the health and safety aspect of both especially b) which can cause...well read the canister and you won't ever buy it again
The foam is good for small damage around back boxes/sockets rather than just neat filler, and for wall cracks too if a suitable entry point is available.
I have a question. Should baseboards have to be glued first then nailed. Someone did my moms baseboards now she has gaps and small spiders are coming in the house. Trying to figure out if it's worth replacing the entire baseboard around the living room or just caulk the gaps.
Take them off and scrape the adhesive off both. Drill 3mm holes every 250-300mm in the skirting. Line the skirting back to wall with whatever space above the FFL that you had before and use the holes that you drilled in the skirting and drill into the masonry with a 3mm masonry bit. Take away the skirting and use a 5.5mm masonry bit to widen the holes in the masonry to the depth of a red rawl plug. Put in the red rawl plugs and use screws suitable for skirting which have a smaller head than usual. Now fix the skirting using them. Expanding foam in the large gaps (if wall is really wonky) and finish off like this video. Done this to ours in the kitchen 2 years ago and looks as good as when I done it. Our builder nailed them (numpty). The nails snapped due to a small amount of moisture that's going to be in an older building. I think you'll find some nails have snapped with yours. Use coated screws so this doesn't happen. If you're in a timber frame house then no rawl plugs obviously.
Make sure skirting has no movement in it and then caulk and paint it. Simples. Thumbs up for people like you though. Gives us proper painters and decorators work. What a cowboy bodge job at it's finest! Using that awful, sticky mess 🤣 I bet his second favourite tool is the 2 quid silicone (before painting) 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Paranoid or not but I was thinking about this last night I didn't even speak about it . This morning it is on my suggestions on TH-cam . Not the first time recently.
I've had that a few times lately... something I may have though to mentioned to a friend. I don't think it's a coincidence either! AI reaching creepy levels of intuition or listening devices....?
job well done permanent repair, se caulking and in 6 months time would have been glad to follow his instructions plus with the foam no critters ie: ants woodlice can take up residency behind there cheers pal for the foam tip
I bought a new house and got cracks like that in the living room I removed old caulk first and used acrylic filler . Just need to paint as when removing old caulk it took some of the paint with it.
@@Zeyr01 I think they say newly built house needs to settle and it takes like 2 years In addition it's next to the road and there are sometimes vibrations from heavy vehicles
@@Zeyr01 outside walls are brick , but inside upper floor is timber and plasterboard walls . I think that's a standard in UK. It has nhbc warranty I think 10 years and 2 years developer warranty. They should mortar the cracks and hopefully fix the road so it's more even, time will tell
@@bebelittle3802 Usually persistent cracks are caused by movement. Fill the crack with foam to stop movement or fill void between wall near door casings.
I would have just cut a groove in the skirting, caulk it, then paint it. Sorted! Why did he take the tape off @6:15 before painting it. It would've left a cleaner line.....
@@scottc9100 most the time it's just old skirting that's dried out and the nails or screws have loosened slightly. No point using foam when the skirting is supposed to be back where it was and not pushed out possibly a few ml just makes no sense imo
Does this work with crown molding also? I have caulked it as usual, but in 2 days there is a gap between the ceiling and the molding. Cleaned it out, caulked again. Same thing happened. Some days the gap is bigger, some days it is smaller.
Alright mate good vid can i just ask how did u cut that bit of skirt were there is about a 1 cent gap ....oh sorry u took the filler out yip i shall try this ps i have just started a painting an dec buisness an there is loadsa work to my surpise but i am struggling a bit with estimates have u any vids bout how best to price a job...
Thank you.. Estimating is one of the hardiest things ever especially in private work... everyone wants to save money. And also no matter what price you put in.. what you get at the end is up to you... it's how organised you are and time keeping 8.30am to 6.00pm .... 6 days a week .. Fact is bloody hard work but can't beat being your own boss... You get to choose your days/ weeks off
Watched a few of your vids now - you're really methodical. Solved a few window cill cracks using your method. Just wondering why you used polyfilla on the top here, but easifill on the left?
If you just use a little foam, how so you make the can ready for a second use ? I used a little, then threw away the whole can ! Didn't know what to do !
Just use caulk sealer, wipe off with a wet finger.. Sorry but if u were to do this it would take a very very long time to do 1 room..caulk sealer silicone gun and a wet finger 👍room done in 20 minutes.. 👍
@@roliepolie7679 what do you mean "when putting them in"?? What's them? Is there a better method of making sure these gaps don't return that you can share please?
@@lucythelou did u not watch the video? Do u not understand what the video is about? Do u not see what the man is doing? Or did u just come to the comments not knowing why ur here? How did u get to this video? If u remember, u might find out what "them" are..silly silly.. Oh ur a woman.. Ahaa
I watch shit like this to see how it shouldn’t be done, you obviously don’t have a fucking clue how it should be done, just like him enjoy the bollocks .
@@PaintingandDecorating i used CT1 on a job just like this, CT1 is amazing, its a flexible, adhesive sealant, it goes rock hard but it has flex, suitable for indoors and outdoors. I have also used it on an outdoor kids spring rocking horse, the hollow plastic seat broke repaired it with wood and CT1 that was 6months ago, not broken since.
Eddie Sasa CT1 Adhesive/sealant is excellent stuff I use it for attaching wet wall. However if using this be aware that it starts to cure quite fast. Make sure everything is trial fitted first because once you start there is no going back, as it does go solid.
Have you tried using a product called ' hippo pro 3'. It's a silicone based sealant which you can paint over. This doesn't crack unlike caulk because it is more flexible . I use it all the time on door frames , skirting which have movement and it never cracks unlike caulk.
@@PaintingandDecorating But that's what hippo pro 3 does . It sticks and seals at the same time and you can paint over it . I could have run a bead along the gaps your filling with a finger or better still a smoothing tool and the skirting won't move after that.( It's stuck solid). It also doesn't crack when you paint over it like acrylic caulk sometimes does.
I love Big Gap filler, i've used it lots in my 75 year solid old old growth fir home. The only draw backs are, do not get that stuff on ANYTHING, not even a drop, it hardens and does not come off. EVER. And don't touch it while it's drying, you'll be tempted to because it looks super cool and feels like a marshmallow, but if you depress the foam before its dry, it will harden so you can trim off the excess with ease. If you leave it be overnight, a simple serrated kitchen bread knife will slice off the excess with ease.
Waste of time with that expanding foam you waste more it’s dreadful stuff all messy...your better off using a caulking gun then when the caulk is dry paint over that’s enough to make it stay in place for years to come 👍
Painting and Decorating Yes ok but you know old school does actually work fine...and also if you use the caulk called “Hard As Nails” that is even better it holds tight good stuff and less messy than the foam, The foam is better for filling bigger gaps not a piddling little thin gap like that, but again it is what it is and each to their own 🙂
@@sheer2waist637 The skirting board was loose and the foam is a fast way to fill the void behind the skirting and make it secure. Will also block drafts make things seam more solid and will not fail again, unlike yours when your caulk cracks from the movement that you did not fix.
Thanks for the video. I now know how to fix my skirting without using caulk. Do you always use Polyfilla for this sort of job? Do you use any other Polyfilla for general purpose use?
When we first moved in, I thought it was a good idea to just silicone the gaps - it was the skirting boards by the stair case, I am now left with ugly grey looking smears, I am going to attempt using white spirit and a brush to get it off but if there any other ways anybody knows of?
Silicone is either easy to come off or really hard.. work an edge up and see if you can pull it off slowly... or rub with a cloth soaked in white spirit and scrape.. thanks
I suppose the problem is "cause and effect". You attended to the "effect" very well on this video and that may well work in some situations. However, in most old houses the cause is old dried out woodwork or crumbling plasterwork behind the skirting. Using foam here will just push the skirting boards out. So in some cases it's best to treat the cause to stop the effect. IMO obviously. But a clever video that made a good point. Thanks
Great vid, almost exactly what I was looking for! Just one question, what if the crack isn't at the end of the skirting board but in the middle of the wall, do I just make the hole at the top and use the filler?
@@PaintingandDecorating sorry I meant foam and not filler 😂😂. Thanks for taking the time to answer my query. So, I just make a hole at the top and fill it then use something to put pressure on it?
Was you on hold through this video?
Nice idea. I just don’t like using the foam filler. It’s really messy, and once you open a can you pretty much have to throw it away as it’s so hard to stop the tube and valve getting gummed up permanently. I agree with an earlier post, my method would be to drill a hole through the board and into the wall. Push a raw plug into the wall and then use a countersunk screw to hold the board onto the wall. Fill the screw head with filler, rub down and paint. No one mentions that it’s probably the radiator causing the problem by drying out one side of the board so that it shrinks and warps so that the ends spring off the wall. Kinda shows that the board wasn’t secured very well to the wall in the first place.
Use WD-40 to clean the nozzle and pipe straight after usage. It's a bit of a pain but saves having to throw the foam away and repeated trips to the merchants and wasted money.
You need to invest in a proper gun. They can be left months as they're pressurised. This one can be cleaned with gun cleaner or taken apart if badly blocked. You get more control with these too. www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ABP546Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SdQyFbABD4NHE
@@SteS I don't know about the OP but I'm a handyman and I have call to use expanding foam twice a year, if that. It's worth the ten minute faff cleaning it after using it to avoid having to pay for and store yet another specialist tool. But I would certainly agree, these guns are defintely the way to go if you have to use EF with any regularity at all.
@@trevhib saves on throwing out a full can of foam. Last time I bought one and cleaned it out after use. Went to use it after two weeks. Nothing. I swore a little then went straight onto amazon. So far this thing hasn't blocked when I went to it. The gun stays on the can so it doesn't really take up much extra space.
@@SteS Yeah, they are good. I guess it comes down to how thorough the clean is. I'm still on my first can, I've now used it three times the last 2.5yrs and there's still 50% left. I must admit the latest time I did have to mess around with the outlet/valve on the can which had gunged up but in my situation I've found no requirement for a gun thus far.
In this situation I’ve drilled through the lower part of the skirting with a wood drill and countersink the hole then drill into the brick through the same hole with a masonry drill then push a Rawl plug in and tighten up with a screw pulling the skirting board back against the wall and finish off with a bit of filler to cover the screw head and the top of the skirting where needed
This is how it should be done!
A better result. This is just plain awful! Have used your method and a much better result
lol, exactly.
Does work and its how I always did it on big cracks, but I've found another faster alternative now.
Use a Hybrid polymer such as CT1, OB1 or THE WORKS. Basically use like caulk. Glues the skirting to the wall and is permanently flexible, insanely strong and fully Paintable. Easy to apply and clean up and most are paintable in an hour or two.
I'd just gap the shit out of it 🤣
Thanks to videos like this, I'm still in gainful employment..!
Great job 👍 I filled mine with cornflour mixed with water 👍after it set I used Philadelphia and gelatine leaves to give it a nice clean level finish ⭐️I had no paint to finish the job so used the white out of a cream egg which I thought worked wonders 👍the dog keeps licking the skirting board 🐾
I have the EXACT same moulding of skirting/architrave as you, the EXACT same problem and the way the skirting meets the architrave is IDENTICAL to my home. Who knows, perhaps our houses could've been built by the same people. Very good helpful video btw
Ben Wyatt thank you possible.
Yes lv
I have the same as well, 1930's house. Think it was very common in the Art Deco era
Great tip, stop the skirting moving in the first place then fill the gap. 👍
I would have put some glue down in there.
I’ve tried everything and at last he put me right 👍👍👍
Thank you..
Thanks, it's good to see someone working on older situations. So many videos seem to be new or even AI generated, with perfect surfaces.
Thank you.
After watching this video some months ago I have taken to using the foam where possible in this kind of scenario. It works excellently. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks. It's great stuff.
What type of foam is it?
@@Rhiannah1000 expanding foam around 5£/£8 for a large canister it can be messy if not careful.its very sticky etc just be careful and all will be good
@@Rhiannah1000 The foam is Soudal Gap Filling Foam - Hand Held 750ml. Be careful and there are a few types. This one should cost you about £5 - £7. I got mine yesterday from screwfix on offer for £5.59
It's good stuff. Be careful as you can get different types from the same company for other uses and they cost a lot more - FYI
@@kevinhancock4064 when do you remove the excess foam, after it's cured with a utility knife, or white it's still loose/moist & sticky?? Best tool?
The whole world is held together with that shit, I fucking love it lol.
I have a three bedroom house, the whole house is been redecorated, all the woodwork gloss needs to be keyed up, skirting, door casing, doors, I'm using 120 gritt by hand, at the moment, feels like hard work, going to use scuff x satin brushed on as the finishing coat , but is there a better or quicker method, maybe using a detail sander or a sheet sander, or is that going to over key it?
I'm no expert but this guy looked like he bodged the hell outta this!
Lol.
People have different methods.
As long as the outcome is a satisfactory repair - it matters not.
It's his home and only a skirting board - not the Empire State Building.
What do you mean? The finish is good.
You have a lovely style and voice. It was so relaxing to watch ⛅
Thank you.
More and more customers are asking me to use this method because they are sick of people using caulk and watching it crack open after 6 months. Not what you want when your paying good money. I’ve been working on a refurb since April this year. I’ve used the foam and filler method. I’m still on and off that refurb and the new wood skirting boards and frames still have not cracked and that’s almost 6 months in a building where there has been drilling, plastering, plumbing etc all types of heavy movement in the building and it still has stood firm. I never use decorators caulk now.
Good news.... this method is the best and even if you get a crack coming back it will be a fine one... thanks
@@PaintingandDecoratinghowever it is a battle with some customers who don’t appreciate it and just would rather you caulk it, paint it and forget about it 😂
I've used decorators caulk, easy to apply and great finish.
For a quick fix, that's ok can take a long time to dry, and some emulsion paints will crack. Caulk is not suitable to fill any depth or wide gaps. Caulk is best for fine filling certain fine gaps in woodwork..
@@PaintingandDecorating yeah like the gap you are filling
@@WorksopGimp lol exactly. And the correct thing to use in the above video if anything isn't either caulk /or/ foam, it's gap filling adhesive.
I’m glad you’ve kept the 1930s ovolo skirting boards. They really are my favourite skirting board design
Thanks... yes just adds to it.
I am here just looking around to see what people are doing to fix baseboards. The DeWalt multitool does an okay job of removing caulk. They have caulk removal blades but I am using blades made for metal and wood but being careful not to go into the wood. I am around half way done removing the old caulk...
I have had some luck using a Dremel with Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone. It removes hard caulk and caked up paint. Have extra batteries ready if you are using a Dremel without a plug. Wear a dust mask for sure.
It is really tempting to rip that sucker off the wall and put new wood on. :-)
What is that you spread with your finger was that caulking?
He says its polyfiller
Hi would you prime already painted woodwork or just sand and re paint.
It’s about time that paper should come off!... 🤣🤣
Your method is more reliable than people advicing to use just chalk. Thank you so much for uploading and sharing. :)
Thank you.
Never thought of using foam to stick that down, good idea. Although maybe it just needed a few more nails or a trim screw or two.
Thanks... Nothing to fix into..
How about removing the skirting board and checking the underlying problem first then filling it up
Foam expands so pushes the board out, use a few screws and a flexable filler as pollyfilla would then crackson that type of job, ok for patching small holes and cracks on walls. Poor quality job indeed...
Hi mate.
Your advice and videos are great and have been my go to for decorating my house! I have an issue with painting over new caulk on the skirting board. When emulsioning the walls also emuslsioned the caulking line-the emulsion has started cracking in these areas. How would you recommend dealing with it?
Thanks, my rented flat has holes and gaps on the skating floor and my landlady is an ass so watching your video gave me hope. I wish I can send you videos so you can see how good they look now thanks to you.
Thank you, glad we could help.
What would you recommend for filling gaps around the frame of a bay window?
A) gripfill or b) expanding foam, but watch all the health and safety aspect of both especially b) which can cause...well read the canister and you won't ever buy it again
@@peterstevenson3503 If I “wouldn’t buy it again” after reading the canister then why would you recommend it to me 😂😂😂
The foam is good for small damage around back boxes/sockets rather than just neat filler, and for wall cracks too if a suitable entry point is available.
I like that this guy isn’t a cowboy and actually takes pride in what he does. Shame all trade professionals aren’t the same as him.
Grip fill smoothed off with cellulose thinner. Never crack again. Works on stair stringers perfectly.
I have a question. Should baseboards have to be glued first then nailed. Someone did my moms baseboards now she has gaps and small spiders are coming in the house. Trying to figure out if it's worth replacing the entire baseboard around the living room or just caulk the gaps.
Take them off and scrape the adhesive off both. Drill 3mm holes every 250-300mm in the skirting. Line the skirting back to wall with whatever space above the FFL that you had before and use the holes that you drilled in the skirting and drill into the masonry with a 3mm masonry bit. Take away the skirting and use a 5.5mm masonry bit to widen the holes in the masonry to the depth of a red rawl plug. Put in the red rawl plugs and use screws suitable for skirting which have a smaller head than usual. Now fix the skirting using them. Expanding foam in the large gaps (if wall is really wonky) and finish off like this video. Done this to ours in the kitchen 2 years ago and looks as good as when I done it. Our builder nailed them (numpty). The nails snapped due to a small amount of moisture that's going to be in an older building. I think you'll find some nails have snapped with yours. Use coated screws so this doesn't happen. If you're in a timber frame house then no rawl plugs obviously.
@@SteS thanks for that, got the same problem
Make sure skirting has no movement in it and then caulk and paint it. Simples. Thumbs up for people like you though. Gives us proper painters and decorators work. What a cowboy bodge job at it's finest! Using that awful, sticky mess 🤣 I bet his second favourite tool is the 2 quid silicone (before painting) 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Paranoid or not but I was thinking about this last night I didn't even speak about it . This morning it is on my suggestions on TH-cam . Not the first time recently.
Mate i get this happen to me all the time. Fucking Skynet mate
I've had that a few times lately... something I may have though to mentioned to a friend. I don't think it's a coincidence either! AI reaching creepy levels of intuition or listening devices....?
You need to wear your tin-foil hat!
what foam and filler did you use? Thanks.
Soudal gap filling foam.. interior pollyfila thanks
It's good stuff, but messy as feck
Bach and skirting, what a Renaissance man
Surely it would have been easier to shore up skirting, knock down wall and rebuild 1.5 mm closer to skirting , skim coat with plaster then paint,.
😂😂😂😂
Great music. Made the video therapeutic.
Thank you.
Or you could drill a hole put a plug in then screw tight to the wall use caulk to fill any gaps and paint should take less than five minutes
this dude just wanted an excuse to rattle on for a while, I think. lol
What causes these cracks?
@@Me-vl4qp muppet
What's wrong with useing a mastic gun.xxxx
job well done permanent repair, se caulking and in 6 months time would have been glad to follow his instructions plus with the foam no critters ie: ants woodlice can take up residency behind there cheers pal for the foam tip
Thank you.
I bought a new house and got cracks like that in the living room
I removed old caulk first and used acrylic filler . Just need to paint as when removing old caulk it took some of the paint with it.
If it's new why is it cracking already?
@@Zeyr01 I think they say newly built house needs to settle and it takes like 2 years
In addition it's next to the road and there are sometimes vibrations from heavy vehicles
@@flesz__ Interesting. Is it a timber build? Also as it's new do you get it fixed under warranty?
@@Zeyr01 outside walls are brick , but inside upper floor is timber and plasterboard walls . I think that's a standard in UK.
It has nhbc warranty I think 10 years and 2 years developer warranty.
They should mortar the cracks and hopefully fix the road so it's more even, time will tell
Can this way be used to fill the side of stairs where wood coming is cracking away from wall?
Yes, we have a video on that th-cam.com/video/aNYRnMxQjZA/w-d-xo.html
@@PaintingandDecorating what was it that you used? I have cracks on the stairs and the bottom of my door way. Thank you in advance.
@@bebelittle3802 Usually persistent cracks are caused by movement. Fill the crack with foam to stop movement or fill void between wall near door casings.
I would have just cut a groove in the skirting, caulk it, then paint it. Sorted!
Why did he take the tape off @6:15 before painting it. It would've left a cleaner line.....
passtheparcel2007 anyone know what causes these cracks I’ve got them all round my skirting boards?
@@scottc9100 most the time it's just old skirting that's dried out and the nails or screws have loosened slightly.
No point using foam when the skirting is supposed to be back where it was and not pushed out possibly a few ml just makes no sense imo
thank you...can you use corking also to fill that in??????what compound are you using? that same, pollyfill?
As long as you use foam to stop movement in the skirting board then you can use caulk to go over the top.
First time fixer-Upper and really enjoying it. What is the foam called that you used? What should I look for in B&Q?
Soudal Genius Gun Gap Filler 500ml Expanding Foam, you can buy it from most online stores.
Your videos are SO GOOD! Thank you for taking all the time and effort!
Thank you.
Hi, why use polyfilla and not caulk tube?
Caulk can take too long to dry and you can not sand it. Emulsion takes to pollyfilla better. The foam stops movement so no cracking again. Thanks
Does this work with crown molding also? I have caulked it as usual, but in 2 days there is a gap between the ceiling and the molding. Cleaned it out, caulked again. Same thing happened. Some days the gap is bigger, some days it is smaller.
Put some adhesive in the gap first. Then caulk.
Expansion and contraction occurs with temperature change.
Beautiful! Music, too! Would be helpful to leave a comment underneath to the supplies. Sometimes I couldn’t understand completely.
Thank you, we have loads of videos on this subject, and they explain more.
Painting and Decorating Thank you!!!
Alright mate good vid can i just ask how did u cut that bit of skirt were there is about a 1 cent gap ....oh sorry u took the filler out yip i shall try this ps i have just started a painting an dec buisness an there is loadsa work to my surpise but i am struggling a bit with estimates have u any vids bout how best to price a job...
Thank you.. Estimating is one of the hardiest things ever especially in private work... everyone wants to save money. And also no matter what price you put in.. what you get at the end is up to you... it's how organised you are and time keeping 8.30am to 6.00pm .... 6 days a week .. Fact is bloody hard work but can't beat being your own boss... You get to choose your days/ weeks off
Why not just use caulk?
You can use caulk as long as you use the foam first to glue the skirting back.
Watched a few of your vids now - you're really methodical. Solved a few window cill cracks using your method. Just wondering why you used polyfilla on the top here, but easifill on the left?
Sorry we don't use easyfill
@@PaintingandDecorating Ok powder filler, how come polyfilla on tops and filler on left?
@@BrumCraft polyfilla is filler or do you mean caulk?
@@PaintingandDecorating Ah sorry, I got the wrong end of the stick. I thought you were using 2 different fillers
Decent heat and more movement that filler cracking right open again, caulk or flexible gap adhesive more reliable
What type of skirting board is shown in the video please? I am trying match some old skirting with new, and this looks very similar.
Lambs tounge I think bud
If you just use a little foam, how so you make the can ready for a second use ? I used a little, then threw away the whole can ! Didn't know what to do !
Allow the foam to stop coming out of the tube... then put in the stopper provided.. the tube is easily cleaned when you next use it..
@@PaintingandDecorating Oh for goodness sake ! Thanks !
Awesome video! Clear instruction
Thank you for your generosity! xoxo
What if you want to remove the moulding ? Won't the foam pull the wall off?
Should be no reason to be removing skirt. And when ever you do remove something like this there is always some damage.
I use sikaflex caulking... Next day primer and rhen painting
Sika is the best.
That's what I would use too.
Caulk it up.
Probably put some glue behind first to stabilise the board.
Do u have any tips for filling gaps running along the bottom of the skirtings, my floors not touching the skirtings.
Difficult depends on your floor and colours... but you can use a flexible sealant.
thanks for the tip, painting and decorating whilst listening to bach will really help me in the future👍
your welcome thanks
This is too much work for the job! Its what decorators caulk was invented for. 20minutes ... job done!
Wrong
Decorators caulk won't stop further movement
Wrong
Just use caulk sealer, wipe off with a wet finger.. Sorry but if u were to do this it would take a very very long time to do 1 room..caulk sealer silicone gun and a wet finger 👍room done in 20 minutes.. 👍
That was an excellent job - please Sir what did you use to hold the skirting under pressure until the filler cured.
In this case I just used my small roller pole wedged from the door casing.
@@PaintingandDecorating Thank you for replying!
Cracking job great work
Thanks
Looks loads better. Nice job 👍🏻
Nice job but those wallpapers?
Thanks..
What is the foam your using please
Soudal expanding foam but others are available... and work just as good.
Poly filler will crack again because it goes hard,you should use painters mate or caulk which stays flexible.
Caulk won't hold the skirting board in place like expanding foam, great video!
Thank you.
@@PaintingandDecorating Soudal PU adhesive with the genius gun is an excellent product as well, love the videos brother. 💯👌
Hey dude ,that's informative,and just to let ya know yohan sabastian back is my top dj.
Johan Sebastian Bach 😂
It is Johann. And not yohan and it Bach not back and the ch is not pronounced like ck
I just put mixed up some Plaster and put it inside mine and finished with caulk job done
preparation is the name of the game I do this for a living as a finishing forman
Thanks... totally agree
A finishing foreman would know this is not the method used when putting them in..so I call rubbish on ur claim to be 1..
@@roliepolie7679 what do you mean "when putting them in"?? What's them? Is there a better method of making sure these gaps don't return that you can share please?
@@lucythelou did u not watch the video? Do u not understand what the video is about? Do u not see what the man is doing? Or did u just come to the comments not knowing why ur here? How did u get to this video? If u remember, u might find out what "them" are..silly silly.. Oh ur a woman.. Ahaa
Great choice of background music.
Very good video shout out to the haters up and down the comments because he did a good job you cant do hence why you watched it lol
Thanks.
I watch shit like this to see how it shouldn’t be done, you obviously don’t have a fucking clue how it should be done, just like him enjoy the bollocks .
@@Jacksonknox834 get a load off Bob the builder
Shahid Khan bob the builder is probably better than the shit you see on here, try it out if your struggling and let me know 👋
@@Jacksonknox834 muppet
Why did the board come away like that in the first place?
They are nailed in and they come loose over time, you can drill screw but this is quicker and better.
@@PaintingandDecorating i used CT1 on a job just like this, CT1 is amazing, its a flexible, adhesive sealant, it goes rock hard but it has flex, suitable for indoors and outdoors. I have also used it on an outdoor kids spring rocking horse, the hollow plastic seat broke repaired it with wood and CT1 that was 6months ago, not broken since.
Eddie Sasa CT1 Adhesive/sealant is excellent stuff I use it for attaching wet wall. However if using this be aware that it starts to cure quite fast. Make sure everything is trial fitted first because once you start there is no going back, as it does go solid.
RUX70N it’s a twat to tool down and the weather ruins it over time so don’t use it for windows
What did you spray before the foam? If you can let me know I will appreciate it.
Diluted PVA
Many ways to fill a gap, this one is the most labour intensive !
lol.
hey what's the name of the foam? i'm trying this
soudal expanding foam gap filler
caulk it!
Have you tried using a product called ' hippo pro 3'. It's a silicone based sealant which you can paint over. This doesn't crack unlike caulk because it is more flexible . I use it all the time on door frames , skirting which have movement and it never cracks unlike caulk.
What ever you use you need to stop the movement first, which is what the foam does. If something is loose it needs fixing.
@@PaintingandDecorating But that's what hippo pro 3 does . It sticks and seals at the same time and you can paint over it . I could have run a bead along the gaps your filling with a finger or better still a smoothing tool and the skirting won't move after that.( It's stuck solid). It also doesn't crack when you paint over it like acrylic caulk sometimes does.
@@jyaneve you could but its far better to use foam which expands inside a lot better than sealant ever could and drys in an hour.
Expansion foam will often hydraulic jack out the piece. Make sure to use Window and Door foam. A few Brad nails and caulk would have been my fix.
how about just stuffing it with the putty?
I love Big Gap filler, i've used it lots in my 75 year solid old old growth fir home. The only draw backs are, do not get that stuff on ANYTHING, not even a drop, it hardens and does not come off. EVER. And don't touch it while it's drying, you'll be tempted to because it looks super cool and feels like a marshmallow, but if you depress the foam before its dry, it will harden so you can trim off the excess with ease. If you leave it be overnight, a simple serrated kitchen bread knife will slice off the excess with ease.
Job always goes well with a bit of Bach.
Waste of time with that expanding foam you waste more it’s dreadful stuff all messy...your better off using a caulking gun then when the caulk is dry paint over that’s enough to make it stay in place for years to come 👍
Caulk is old school...
Painting and Decorating Yes ok but you know old school does actually work fine...and also if you use the caulk called “Hard As Nails” that is even better it holds tight good stuff and less messy than the foam, The foam is better for filling bigger gaps not a piddling little thin gap like that, but again it is what it is and each to their own 🙂
@@sheer2waist637 The skirting board was loose and the foam is a fast way to fill the void behind the skirting and make it secure. Will also block drafts make things seam more solid and will not fail again, unlike yours when your caulk cracks from the movement that you did not fix.
@@sheer2waist637 it's called caulk not chalk.
Painting and Decorating ok spelling mistakes rectified now
Looks a lot better
Thank you.
Dont see why some many people disliked the video ill be following and using alot of your tips
Thanks.
You heard of caulk mate?
Good Job! And also Love your choice of Music ;)
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I now know how to fix my skirting without using caulk. Do you always use Polyfilla for this sort of job? Do you use any other Polyfilla for general purpose use?
Your welcome. You can use any interior powder filler or ready mixed.
Thanks.
When we first moved in, I thought it was a good idea to just silicone the gaps - it was the skirting boards by the stair case, I am now left with ugly grey looking smears, I am going to attempt using white spirit and a brush to get it off but if there any other ways anybody knows of?
Silicone is either easy to come off or really hard.. work an edge up and see if you can pull it off slowly... or rub with a cloth soaked in white spirit and scrape.. thanks
OMG I have been looking for a video like this for the longest. Thanks 👏🏾
Your welcome.
I m also looking for you baby long time anthea wharton
I suppose the problem is "cause and effect". You attended to the "effect" very well on this video and that may well work in some situations. However, in most old houses the cause is old dried out woodwork or crumbling plasterwork behind the skirting. Using foam here will just push the skirting boards out.
So in some cases it's best to treat the cause to stop the effect.
IMO obviously.
But a clever video that made a good point.
Thanks
Obviously not as you can see in the video the foam works perfectly, no more crack ever.
Great vid, almost exactly what I was looking for! Just one question, what if the crack isn't at the end of the skirting board but in the middle of the wall, do I just make the hole at the top and use the filler?
Better to use the foam give the filler a more secure anchor.
@@PaintingandDecorating sorry I meant foam and not filler 😂😂. Thanks for taking the time to answer my query. So, I just make a hole at the top and fill it then use something to put pressure on it?
Why go through so much effort with the foam
Because it's worth it.
Just caulk the gap re screw run excess caulk of ,job done
Looks very good.
Thank you.
Using your finger for applying is sloppy. There’s tools out there that can finish it perfect.
Lol.
Not to mention chemical absorbsion thru skin⚠️⚠️⚠️
So in that case please explain, what is a base board and what is a skirt board?
Same thing UK skirting boards and base boards American.
How long is a piece of string................
Double the length from the middle to the end.
@@PaintingandDecorating - Which end though?
@@bradburyrobinson Doesn't matter.