From the EIA code on the speaker 137 7220 is a CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) year is 1972 20th week. I have a couple of similar looking CTS speakers but in 12" from a Peavey Classic 50W 2x12 from 1976, got it a couple of weeks back with a Fender 85 solid state combo thrown in for £80, only bought it for the 2 RCA 6L6GC which test as new on my AVO VCM :)
Very nice work and rationale. I like the can cap replacement idea, probably look at doing this on my Mojo PR when the time comes. I mounted a pot ( where you mounted the terminal strip) for bias adjustment, likely just a matter of preference vs fixed. Also like your balanced heater wire scheme.
Great series, Brad! Thank you for sharing your attention to detail and expertise! Maybe a quick part iv, an epilogue of sorts to show off the trem, assuming the amp is still in the shop. A follow up video would be great too, to see what the owner thinks, especially about the speaker. Cheers!
It sounds very nice. I can probably recone the original speakers as MWA is a only two hour drive south. I put Pearl Black pigment in surficated linseed or tung oil and stain the insides of the cabinates a very dark transparent bluish toned black. Mars Black has red in it, and it doesn't look right at all. That is a job you do outdoors. That pigment is like black talcum powder. The store tapes the jars shut for a reason. If it gets loose it goes EVERYWHERE!
Beautiful work! Sounds great. One very minor niggle. Flip the handle over so the bulge is on the top to look more like the original. The stitching will look more finished on that side as well.
Good info on the filter caps, I'm probably looking forward to that on my 75 Princeton.. How about some of those decorative headed machine screws to fill the bottom holes ?
Great sound. I may try that 2.2uf cap instead of the 25uf ..it seems to make the treble and mid blend better. The speaker is pretty good too. I like the Eminence GA10 for Ceramic speakers in Fenders as the treble is a bit smoother. Great work. ..now to find a 2.2uf electrolytic 25volt...
I like the Fact that you did away with the can cap ,my Ampeg has 3 can caps and need addressing ,so I will ask the tech that went through the amp in 2006 to bypass the can caps ,getting close to be not worth doing I never played it much because its so loud and resell is crap as opposed to other companies
Ampeg make great amps Joe.. imo, and they're not cheap out here.. Only played thru a mates one yrs back, with the check tolex (Rockerverb?).. lovely amp, great tones. Edit: Rocketverb or something.. awhile ago!
Perhaps that Jensn speaker was put into a solid state amp with a minpr negative voltage offset problem that sucked it inwards and after a while it stayed there.....
How about a little loop on the leads in the middle between the cap cans and the daughter board you installed? That would stress-relieve that side of it. Otherwise, I reckon your work is perfection, mate.
Im not 100% on this Brad.. but Lorantz used to recone spkrs yrs ago, may have changed now though (?). Ive got an Eminence EGTR-10 in a Princeton clone, fine with buckers, but hard to tame with singles... Might look into the WGS ET10, so thanks for the tip. This BF came up good mate... bar a hiccup or two!
I don't think the speaker is original. It looks like a later era type. This would have had an older Jensen or similar. But, i may be wrong, I'm no expert. I've just seen a lot of amps
Despite the fact that these axial caps look cool, at some point the logical side of my brain says that a 500V, 33uF, 105 deg, 12000 hr, Nichicon cap for $5.50 is the way to go..... but then you are a vintage amp butcher..... oh well - the TAD's are 5000 hr, they should see maybe 20 years..... that will be 2044 .... will valve amps still be a thing? :)
Hayseed Hamfest's caps are all 105C rated & usually 5000 hour rated or better, and in the USA the price is comparable to CED's antiquated garbage FP type multisetcion can caps. CED is still potting with hot asphaltum bitumous pitch (tar). CED needs to hybridize that antique Mallory tooling that has been passed around like a cheap whore, even having been passed through half of Mexico, and replace that hot picth pot with liquid high temp silicone or epoxy potting compound injection.
Great job. However, assuming that this was not a barn find, the owner paid a decent amount of money for this vintage amp. Then he brings it to an amp tech for getting it fit for use. In the end he ends up with an amp with all new guts. Even the often so applauded, 1000 of hours played-in vintage speaker had to be replaced and is a now standard, brand new WGS. At least the asbestos sheet, usually attached to the backplate, was already removed. What is the point of owning such an amp?
Great workmanship! Aussies are lucky to have such a talented young man.
Musicians = Mangalores, truer words were never uttered! Great vid Brad!
Agh waiting on the second shoe to drop! You’re doing all the right moves! That 5th element reference 😂.
From the EIA code on the speaker 137 7220 is a CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) year is 1972 20th week. I have a couple of similar looking CTS speakers but in 12" from a Peavey Classic 50W 2x12 from 1976, got it a couple of weeks back with a Fender 85 solid state combo thrown in for £80, only bought it for the 2 RCA 6L6GC which test as new on my AVO VCM :)
Now that is a Princeton I would like to own after you did your master work. Kudos champion…!
And that sound right there is why I want one of these - even if it's a kit build. Awesome work - thorough as ever.
That board is remarkably clean for a 65!
The amp master killing it per usual. Have a good day mate
Outstanding work. People need to understand this isn’t 1964 anymore.
Beautiful work on this one!
Very nice work and rationale. I like the can cap replacement idea, probably look at doing this on my Mojo PR when the time comes. I mounted a pot ( where you mounted the terminal strip) for bias adjustment, likely just a matter of preference vs fixed. Also like your balanced heater wire scheme.
Great series, Brad! Thank you for sharing your attention to detail and expertise! Maybe a quick part iv, an epilogue of sorts to show off the trem, assuming the amp is still in the shop. A follow up video would be great too, to see what the owner thinks, especially about the speaker. Cheers!
Great informative series. Quality work made to look easy is skill.
Thanks for the video.
I like your approach from one tech to another 👍 🍻
Pretty amp; great work, Brad!
Ended up sounding pretty great!
The Mustards have returned! Looks better.
It sounds very nice. I can probably recone the original speakers as MWA is a only two hour drive south. I put Pearl Black pigment in surficated linseed or tung oil and stain the insides of the cabinates a very dark transparent bluish toned black. Mars Black has red in it, and it doesn't look right at all. That is a job you do outdoors. That pigment is like black talcum powder. The store tapes the jars shut for a reason. If it gets loose it goes EVERYWHERE!
Sounds great good job Brad. Leo in heaven thanks you
Great Job. Nice video work.
Beautiful work! Sounds great. One very minor niggle. Flip the handle over so the bulge is on the top to look more like the original. The stitching will look more finished on that side as well.
Fantastic work!
nice camera work m8
I've built a couple of these now. A NFB cut makes them quite cheeky.
I was really looking forward to hearing the tremolo! Yeah, better luck next time, eh? 😂
Part 4: trem!
Anchors. We call them wallboard anchors.😊
FUCKING BRILLIANT!
The tone stack on these are fun- dial up the tone knob for an upper mids boost.
Good info on the filter caps, I'm probably looking forward to that on my 75 Princeton.. How about some of those decorative headed machine screws to fill the bottom holes ?
Great sound. I may try that 2.2uf cap instead of the 25uf ..it seems to make the treble and mid blend better. The speaker is pretty good too. I like the Eminence GA10 for Ceramic speakers in Fenders as the treble is a bit smoother. Great work. ..now to find a 2.2uf electrolytic 25volt...
I like the Fact that you did away with the can cap ,my Ampeg has 3 can caps and need addressing ,so I will ask the tech that went through the amp in 2006 to bypass the can caps ,getting close to be not worth doing I never played it much because its so loud and resell is crap as opposed to other companies
Ampeg make great amps Joe.. imo, and they're not cheap out here..
Only played thru a mates one yrs back, with the check tolex (Rockerverb?).. lovely amp, great tones.
Edit: Rocketverb or something.. awhile ago!
That's a 70s cts alnico, great speaker but not original so I wouldn't worry about it.
Broll 🔥
Great series. Perfect balance of pissin and fuckin.
Perhaps that Jensn speaker was put into a solid state amp with a minpr negative voltage offset problem that sucked it inwards and after a while it stayed there.....
How about a little loop on the leads in the middle between the cap cans and the daughter board you installed? That would stress-relieve that side of it. Otherwise, I reckon your work is perfection, mate.
Sounds great. Personally, I'd keep the speaker.
"Oh is that a nail clipping..." LOL. I've been there but, how does that even happen?!?
Very nice! She's ready to go for another 60 years. How loud is 8 with that amp? Fairly room filling?
Kidney stones. Damn. Take er easy and drink all the water
Can't drink the water in Sydney.
Im not 100% on this Brad.. but Lorantz used to recone spkrs yrs ago, may have changed now though (?).
Ive got an Eminence EGTR-10 in a Princeton clone, fine with buckers, but hard to tame with singles...
Might look into the WGS ET10, so thanks for the tip.
This BF came up good mate... bar a hiccup or two!
Lorantz might be able to recone it
Neg feedback resistor?
🍿🍿🍿👍👍👍
Great Rest-o-mod but I hate the sound of the WGS speaker...
I don't think the speaker is original. It looks like a later era type. This would have had an older Jensen or similar. But, i may be wrong, I'm no expert. I've just seen a lot of amps
Despite the fact that these axial caps look cool, at some point the logical side of my brain says that a 500V, 33uF, 105 deg, 12000 hr, Nichicon cap for $5.50 is the way to go..... but then you are a vintage amp butcher..... oh well - the TAD's are 5000 hr, they should see maybe 20 years..... that will be 2044 .... will valve amps still be a thing? :)
Stay posted for the next featured amp, mate. I'll dig into it in detail.
Hayseed Hamfest's caps are all 105C rated & usually 5000 hour rated or better, and in the USA the price is comparable to CED's antiquated garbage FP type multisetcion can caps. CED is still potting with hot asphaltum bitumous pitch (tar). CED needs to hybridize that antique Mallory tooling that has been passed around like a cheap whore, even having been passed through half of Mexico, and replace that hot picth pot with liquid high temp silicone or epoxy potting compound injection.
I’ve had HH caps with loose covers, and inside they had generic caps I would never choose.
I’m not defending CE, but HH is not the answer IME.
Great job. However, assuming that this was not a barn find, the owner paid a decent amount of money for this vintage amp. Then he brings it to an amp tech for getting it fit for use. In the end he ends up with an amp with all new guts. Even the often so applauded, 1000 of hours played-in vintage speaker had to be replaced and is a now standard, brand new WGS. At least the asbestos sheet, usually attached to the backplate, was already removed. What is the point of owning such an amp?
As mentioned in episode 1, the customer's had it for decades.