I've found this method works well when using standard glue like revolution 3, finezip, etc. While I haven't tried thicker glues like DHS glue as I don't use chinese rubbers, I have a few recommendations for using thinner glues like butterfly 2 or pro 2 (which should be used for tenergy or dignics). First thing, you should only use one layer on the blade and then two layers on the rubber. First you should do a really thin layer on the rubber, just enough to get glue within all the pores, almost like how the first layer when spray painting should just be a light dusting to almost prime the surface. Then for the blade and the second layer of the rubber, you should put a normal layer on both the rubber and the blade. But the most important part I've found is to use a brand new sponge for every single time you apply a layer of glue. The thinner glues dry incredibly fast, so even if you're gluing the blade and the rubber at the same time, that 10 or 15 seconds is enough for the glue on the sponge to start balling up and ruin the layer you're about to apply. Use a fresh sponge everytime and really be quick about application with the thinner glues.
As some rubbers are very expensive & glue left in the container has a limited use by time, I prefer to get the rubber supplier to do the job. The video was helpful to players who replace their rubbers regularly. I have read Tom's book, SPIN TIPS & TACTICS TO WIN AT TABLE TENNIS & I CAN RECOMMEND IT as it has many valuable ways to improve & ALSO ENSURE YOU ENJOY THE GAME. Some players focus FAR TOO MUCH ON WINNING & CAN GET DISHEARTENED. I am 80 years old & still ENJOY PLAYING rather than wanting to win all the time. Tom's book highlights that point. Tom's You Tube videos have really helped my game. Thank you Tom.
This is how you do it: 1 layer of glue on the rubber 1 layer of booster on the rubber wait 1 layer of booster on the rubber wait 1 layer of glue on the rubber 1 layer of glue on the blade 1 layer of glue on the rubber assemble leave with a weight on it for at least 30 minutes enjoy!
My racket rubber is partially peeled off on its center portion from the sponge , how to properly reglue it ? Is the water based glue suitable for that?
I use old forbidden glue. I have no patience after few waisted try’s with legal glue always ending in bumps or peeling off. Also too time consuming while glueing. You need at least 1 hour, and that’s when you don’t do mistakes. I decided to be illegal because it’s super easy to glue, don’t need much time for it, and it always works. The effect of speedglue is gone after few days anyway. I use a rubber around a half year. After a year an opened bottle of waterglue is useless. Lots of waste. From that angle I think it’s even environmentally better to stick with the forbidden oldschool glue. I’m illegal cause of practical reason and a little because of financial reason. I could buy a rubber at a proper store and they glue it, but I noticed, even they are using often speedglue. They have no time to glue the rackets with the legal glue. My decision to use that glue was triggered by that too. Also it is less expensive to buy over internet some 729.
From my experience, the length of time you leave it to dry depends on the glue. Timo Boll (using Butterfly Free Check) waits 2-3 hours! I tried with a different known brand TT glue and 1-2 hrs worked well but some of the cheaper ones (like Impact) seem to be better used with less time - which is an advantage in one way. Nonetheless, if you're not leaving it very long and you're rubber isn't sticking as well as it should, I'd suggest re-gluing and try leaving it a bit longer.
@@Mr.Chartered Several of the known TT brands offer glues incl. Butterfly, Tibhar, Joola, Victas, Donic, Andro, Gewo etc. Plus there are others such as Impact and more still from China sometimes available on eBay or from China through the likes of AliExpress. But each of them might require a little experimentation to see how long the glue should be left to dry before putting rubber to blade, except for Butterfly Free Chack, for which at least an hour or more seems to work.
In most articles and videos I miss the option of using a glue stick (Pritt, Stylex, Pelikan, etc.). Such a glue stick has many advantages and thus avoids the disadvantages of commercially available table tennis rubber glue: - practical to use: no sponges required. Simply apply with the stick and you're good - the adhesive in a glue stick is not a "contact adhesive". And that means that you don't let the glue dry first...and corrections to the placement can be made immediately after mounting, which is a huge advantage, especially when re-gluing cut rubbers. - the glue in a glue stick is water-soluble, easy to remove completely with a wet sponge in seconds! Ideal for those who glue a lot, like to change rubbers often and experiment with materials. - glue sticks are significantly cheaper However, a rubber glued with a glue stick should dry overnight after assembly, under light pressure. But then the rubbers hold just as well as those glued with TT glue. Surely, a couple of books are sufficient for the required light pressure. But a good rubber press, for example the Bp24 or Bp24Pro, is much more comfortable.
It's interesting how most players have a slightly different way of gluing. I've watched dima, timo, and others. They have different techniques they use.
I really hate that latex glue .... It just feels so bad. Also I never seenanyone ever use two layers but the explanation makes sense ! In the shop I usually go to they probably use only like half the ammount of glue XD Also such a big waste with all those sponges, really don't understand why they had to forbid the old glues, I understand that VOC is not good for your health but most normal players glued like once before training or game and thats it .... only a fraction used glue like several times a day seven days a week. I still get my good old speed glue and use it (not before playing an official game though) but it just feels so much better .... glueing a new rubber for the first time with speed glue even if you don't glue it again feels so much better its "alive" while using the latex glue it just feels dead to me most of the time.
And how do you securely remove the rubber, what are the details of the use of varnishing and do you remove old glue before applying a new layer of glue?
How much added weight does the glue contribute to the total weight of the setup? Recently I glued my rubber for the first time and the weight ended up being quite significantly more (8-10g) then expected. I applied 2+2 layers on each side, and i might have been a bit too generous? No big deal with this one, but I'm planning to put together a super lightweight bat next, and I would not want it to be heavier than really necessary.
@@blueheart9873 for me it is important, i don't have a very strong wrist, recently had carpal tunnel release surgery as well, definitely feel a big difference having to handle 160g vs 190g
I've found this method works well when using standard glue like revolution 3, finezip, etc. While I haven't tried thicker glues like DHS glue as I don't use chinese rubbers, I have a few recommendations for using thinner glues like butterfly 2 or pro 2 (which should be used for tenergy or dignics). First thing, you should only use one layer on the blade and then two layers on the rubber. First you should do a really thin layer on the rubber, just enough to get glue within all the pores, almost like how the first layer when spray painting should just be a light dusting to almost prime the surface. Then for the blade and the second layer of the rubber, you should put a normal layer on both the rubber and the blade. But the most important part I've found is to use a brand new sponge for every single time you apply a layer of glue. The thinner glues dry incredibly fast, so even if you're gluing the blade and the rubber at the same time, that 10 or 15 seconds is enough for the glue on the sponge to start balling up and ruin the layer you're about to apply. Use a fresh sponge everytime and really be quick about application with the thinner glues.
As some rubbers are very expensive & glue left in the container has a limited use by time, I prefer to get
the rubber supplier to do the job.
The video was helpful to players who replace their rubbers regularly.
I have read Tom's book, SPIN TIPS & TACTICS TO WIN AT TABLE TENNIS & I
CAN RECOMMEND IT as it has many valuable ways to improve & ALSO ENSURE YOU ENJOY THE GAME.
Some players focus FAR TOO MUCH ON WINNING & CAN GET DISHEARTENED.
I am 80 years old & still ENJOY PLAYING rather than wanting to win all the time.
Tom's book highlights that point.
Tom's You Tube videos have really helped my game.
Thank you Tom.
This is how you do it:
1 layer of glue on the rubber
1 layer of booster on the rubber
wait
1 layer of booster on the rubber
wait
1 layer of glue on the rubber
1 layer of glue on the blade
1 layer of glue on the rubber
assemble
leave with a weight on it for at least 30 minutes
enjoy!
Too much glue used in each coat. 8-10 drops are enough. May be it differ for different type of glues.
My racket rubber is partially peeled off on its center portion from the sponge , how to properly reglue it ? Is the water based glue suitable for that?
I use old forbidden glue. I have no patience after few waisted try’s with legal glue always ending in bumps or peeling off. Also too time consuming while glueing. You need at least 1 hour, and that’s when you don’t do mistakes. I decided to be illegal because it’s super easy to glue, don’t need much time for it, and it always works.
The effect of speedglue is gone after few days anyway. I use a rubber around a half year. After a year an opened bottle of waterglue is useless. Lots of waste. From that angle I think it’s even environmentally better to stick with the forbidden oldschool glue. I’m illegal cause of practical reason and a little because of financial reason. I could buy a rubber at a proper store and they glue it, but I noticed, even they are using often speedglue. They have no time to glue the rackets with the legal glue. My decision to use that glue was triggered by that too.
Also it is less expensive to buy over internet some 729.
agree
How often should I re-glue the rubber?
Is there any signal it is time to remake it?
From my experience, the length of time you leave it to dry depends on the glue. Timo Boll (using Butterfly Free Check) waits 2-3 hours! I tried with a different known brand TT glue and 1-2 hrs worked well but some of the cheaper ones (like Impact) seem to be better used with less time - which is an advantage in one way. Nonetheless, if you're not leaving it very long and you're rubber isn't sticking as well as it should, I'd suggest re-gluing and try leaving it a bit longer.
Can u name a few TT glue brands??
@@Mr.Chartered Several of the known TT brands offer glues incl. Butterfly, Tibhar, Joola, Victas, Donic, Andro, Gewo etc. Plus there are others such as Impact and more still from China sometimes available on eBay or from China through the likes of AliExpress. But each of them might require a little experimentation to see how long the glue should be left to dry before putting rubber to blade, except for Butterfly Free Chack, for which at least an hour or more seems to work.
white glue - what glue?
Very informative - thanks, Tom!
Just what I needed. Ordering some MachV and hoped not to muck it up. Will follow this to the letter. As always appreciated Tom.
As others pointed out there is also a very good video by Ovtcharov that goes into a lot more detail if you're interested
In most articles and videos I miss the option of using a glue stick (Pritt, Stylex, Pelikan, etc.). Such a glue stick has many advantages and thus avoids the disadvantages of commercially available table tennis rubber glue:
- practical to use: no sponges required. Simply apply with the stick and you're good
- the adhesive in a glue stick is not a "contact adhesive". And that means that you don't let the glue dry first...and corrections to the placement can be made immediately after mounting, which is a huge advantage, especially when re-gluing cut rubbers.
- the glue in a glue stick is water-soluble, easy to remove completely with a wet sponge in seconds! Ideal for those who glue a lot, like to change rubbers often and experiment with materials.
- glue sticks are significantly cheaper
However, a rubber glued with a glue stick should dry overnight after assembly, under light pressure. But then the rubbers hold just as well as those glued with TT glue.
Surely, a couple of books are sufficient for the required light pressure. But a good rubber press, for example the Bp24 or Bp24Pro, is much more comfortable.
It's interesting how most players have a slightly different way of gluing. I've watched dima, timo, and others. They have different techniques they use.
I really hate that latex glue .... It just feels so bad.
Also I never seenanyone ever use two layers but the explanation makes sense !
In the shop I usually go to they probably use only like half the ammount of glue XD
Also such a big waste with all those sponges, really don't understand why they had to forbid the old glues, I understand that VOC is not good for your health but most normal players glued like once before training or game and thats it .... only a fraction used glue like several times a day seven days a week.
I still get my good old speed glue and use it (not before playing an official game though) but it just feels so much better .... glueing a new rubber for the first time with speed glue even if you don't glue it again feels so much better its "alive" while using the latex glue it just feels dead to me most of the time.
Great explanation. Thanks
And how do you securely remove the rubber, what are the details of the use of varnishing and do you remove old glue before applying a new layer of glue?
I always use the the edge of a dishwashing sponge to apply the glue. It's much easier, faster and smoother.
Can i use Elmers Glue?
Very good video 🎉
your glue is not available in my country can you give me any alternatives
thanks Tom, really enjoy your videos. i have a couple of batts to fix now.
Trimakasih cara masang karet nya
Thanks for the video - great help👍🙏
what about using hair dryer to dry the glue
For the love of god please use a roller
Is that normal white glue?
WHy do you need it to dry?
Doesnt that mean it no longer sticks?
No, you need to let it dry and it will be way more stickier
How much added weight does the glue contribute to the total weight of the setup? Recently I glued my rubber for the first time and the weight ended up being quite significantly more (8-10g) then expected. I applied 2+2 layers on each side, and i might have been a bit too generous? No big deal with this one, but I'm planning to put together a super lightweight bat next, and I would not want it to be heavier than really necessary.
Too light is also not good
@@blueheart9873 for me it is important, i don't have a very strong wrist, recently had carpal tunnel release surgery as well, definitely feel a big difference having to handle 160g vs 190g
The glue won't add that much weight. Maybe if you are trying to keep the set up as light as possible, use only one layer of glue.
Any good tips as for how to cleanse the blade after peeling off the old rubber?
(And before gluing it again)
I keep an old table tennis rubber and use this to rub off any excess glue on the blade.
I use table tennis ball for that, it applies good friction and generates a bit of heat while rubbing so the glue comes off pretty easy:)
No booster? Pah......
Not all rubbers need booster lol
Very vague and inaccurate when it comes to how you actually apply the glue... rather watch Dima Ovtcharov explaining it in his video. Sorry
Dimas video is indeed the best one I've seen, very useful from the beast himself