Ford door lock actuator cheap fix DIY F150.MOV
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- The User assumes all risks involved in this procedure.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME - Disclaimer
IF YOU TRY THIS AND SOMETHING GOES WRONG DON'[T COMPLAIN TO ME
Cheap door lock repair solution for Ford door lock actuator problem
After watching your video I did this repair on my 2001 Mustang GT passenger door. I dremeled out the plastic and rivet connections and pried the shell apart. Got to the motor and found it caked in black dust. I thought maybe if I just cleaned the copper connections inside I would make better contacts and have more power to the motor. Used vinegar and baking soda on a q tip to clean all the parts nice and shiny and put it back together. Didn't work. After adding the foil to the resistor and retesting it worked awesome. I used some short screws to reattach the two halves of the shell back together and BAMM!!! It all worked. Saved some money, learned a few things, and beat the auto cartel by doing it myself. Thanks a million! Now gonna go refurbish my alternator after watching another TH-cam tutorial. Please keep posting!
I did as you said, I did not try it at home. I went to the Walmart parking lot. It worked great. :)
worked for both doors on f150 xlt 1999... only had the truck for a month, but the previous owner told me the locks haven't worked for about 10 years lol. btw, the actual removal was more complicated than what most of the youtube vids show you, including this video, but just play with it and learn the mechanism. great idea, took me about 3 hours...i'm slow like that ;) thanks.
Hi. Thanks very much for sharing this video. I'm in Australia and have just fixed the actuator on the liftgate of my 2008 Ford Escape. I decided to try this while waiting for my replacement motor to arrive (purcahsed on ebay) and worked perfectly. Thanks very much. The missus is impressed!
Did this to mine works good thanks. Not sure what the electronics world calls it but that little plate opens the motor circuit after an instant to prevent locked rotor motor current in case the button is held down. Just some more info: I ground out a little of the material between the plates at one end (seemed to be plastic) with a Dremel and soldered the plates together to bypass the whatever its called. There are little slotted holes in the motor brush end for a u-bent paper clip to insert to spread the brushes for easier re-assembly of the motor. As for the after market actuators: They do not have motor locked rotor protection either and the actuator arm does not free wheel like the factory one does to allow for easy unlocking with a key (for me that was important since I do not have a key fob). I had installed an aftermarket but fixed mine and replaced it after seeing this video, Thanks
Thanks ALOT !!! This video saved me $120.00 ! My door locks work like new. Thank you for sharing this info with TH-cam.
Awesome!!! It worked for me, you are a master, a crack, a titan, thanks for sharing your knowledge with others and have a blessing life my friend,,,
Thanks!! who woulda thought!! Holy Moly it works!! All I can add is on reinstallation make SURE its mounted almost vertical in the same orientation and it's locked in, otherwise it has nothing to push against to lock/unlock
I just tackled this project on my F550 and this video was very helpful! I ended up using a cut up penny to replace the resistor.
Thanks so much for sharing this. It worked great on the hatch of my 2001 Ford Escape. I still can't believe it worked, this saved me a bunch of cash.
Thanks man, i repaired my Mondeo mk3 by this way, i opened the motor and was full of a black dust, i washed it with WD40, and i did exactly as in your video, works great now!
Good One! Tip: You can use the hot gun/hair dryer to weaken the existing sealing, and slowly pry off with the flat head screw driver. Also its better to buy a new motor roughly less than $6 on ebay.. Motor: Mabuchi FC-280PT-20150 Door Lock
excellent video, my nissan pathfinder 2012 had an issue with trunk lock, Nissan gave me a quote for $350 but I followed your video and my issue got fixed. Thanks and Best Regards
Excellent clip, worked perfectly on my daughters 2009 Escape. Had trouble with the tabs so I ended up drilling them out. Made a new resistor out of a piece of copper pipe. If it happens again I can pick up a new motor on eBay for a couple of dollars. Ford will only sell you a complete new assembly for a rediculous price. My philosophy is ... anything thats put together comes apart and anything that comes apart can be fixed. ..... Thanks
in peru Ford sell it on $500, only i invest 1/2 dollar in aluminium paper =) thanks! guys!
I don't know how anyone can work on small things with gloves on. Thumbs up for a great video.
I was skeptical, but this actually worked. Replacements are only $13 on Amazon now, but why not save a few bucks and learn and try something new? One important word of caution! If you’re planning on repairing your actuator, make sure you don’t break off the lower part of the mounting tab when you’re removing it! If you do, you’ll have to buy a whole new actuator or work out a way to jury rug it, which is what I did. It ain’t pretty, but it’s holding together. Also, be ready to use a metric crap ton of the strongest adhesive you can find to hold the two sides together. If it’s at all weak, the thing will full on ‘splode the first time you put volts thru it. I ended up drilling in some new rivets to keep it together. Fun project!
Thanks for this. I did this to fix mine in my 2000 Ford laser (~323 protege). What I did different though and would recommend is to short the connections altogether rather than using foil around the old part. I just shoved a piece of copper in there and suffice it to say, that thing's going to outlive the car.
thanks from old retired guy with no money and lots of time !
Thanks for the post! Used the info for my 99 Corolla with issues opening and closing the lock all the way on the front passenger door. I have to say though, that the motor went from barely turning, to kicking out more torque than the assembly could handle when I had just snapped it back together for testing, and the assembly kept popping open - I just glued it shut and hope that the gear teeth don't shear off any time soon from the excess torque. If anyone coming here is electrically inclined, I'd recommend taking a resistance reading of the piece he's wrapping in foil (it's not 100% metal - it's thick foil pasted on either side of a plastic square, presumably with a resistor somewhere behind/between the foil) and perhaps just using a lower ohm resistor as opposed to completely shorting it out. If need be, you can use a potentiometer to dial in the ideal resistance to compensate for the wear in the motor/bearings that you're overcoming by shorting it out with the aluminum foil hack, and once you find a good resistance level, install a new resistor with the ohm reading you found to be sufficient. Anyhoo - thanks again! Worst comes to worst, it doesn't last forever and I end up having to replace it, which I would have had to do anyways and at an earlier time.
Gracias por su excelente explicación. Desde Venezuela. Felicitaciones
Great fix, really good video, 1st repair I've seen done to the music of Space Hog's In the Meantime & STP doing Led Zepeling. Damn musicians, noticing those little things. Thanks for the video.
This is neat, but I feel like it's masking a bigger problem.
The plate seems to function as a thermistor. The thing is, it shouldn't heat up to cut-off in the short period it takes to pop the lock. If it does, that indicates an overload condition.
Rather than modifying the motor, I'd make sure the load on it is as small as possible by simply lubricating everything. Getting rid of that old caked orange garbage in there and replacing it with new, clean white lithium or silicone grease would probably do wonders. Take a can of lithium spray-grease and put a thin coat on the locking mechanism itself, too.
The motor can also be lubricated (sewing machine oil and the like would probably be best), but you gotta be careful to not use too much and foul the brushes.
Worked great. Nut and bolted where the metal rivets were. And taped the rest. Hope it holds but if it doesnt i will do something different
That is a resistive plate to avoid burning out the motor in case the switch is left on too long.
Thanks a lot. I fixed mine with the same procedure.
Dank u voor het mooi filmpje het heeft geholpen 👍
Started to do the repair, but I did not get the actuator far enough outboard, and snapped off the tab. Got the Dorman equivalent at the parts store. Not quite equivalent, the arm is made of plastic, but part comes with "limited lifetime warranty".
thx, this works for a 2001 F650 as well.
thanks help me a lot by doing this easy video gracias amigo
I think there should be a better explanation of what that little metal plate is in the motor. I seriously doubt it is a "resistor". Also an explanation of why wrapping in foil should help accomplish anything. I would not embark on an unexplained repair.
I just replaced driver and passenger door actuators. One had obviously been "fixed' as per this video.BUT why do this when new replacement actuators are available on eBay for $11.44 each--including shipping ? I got mine there from seller "directauto'' and they work just fine.
lucky you ,,for my toyota tacoma 2001 is really pricely
2010 F150 it's almost 100 bucks.
Why? For some people, to learn something.
"why do this when new replacement actuators are available on eBay for $11.44 each--including shipping ?" Because they are cheap and will fail as well. The resistor is the weak link in these....
Cheap or not. Saving money is saving money.
bought both passenger and drivers side actuators off of amazon for 27 bucks pretty cheap and a lot less of a hassle if you ask me.
Pretty cool. My driver door on my 2011 Escape seems to be going, what were the symptoms before you decided to attempt this? Because right now, it will unlock or lock about 50% of the time. And Sometimes it gets stuck about half way in between. Also it sounds like the motor is struggling too, like a higher pitch wining noise or something.
So are these the symptoms you experienced that could be fixed with this? Thanks!
Nice video. Gotta say it's hard to find good gloves.
in my 2000 ford focus the power door locks all seem to unlock when i slam the door (creating vibration) and when the heater makes the inside of the car warm doors suddenly unlock!! this is driving me crazy. what do you think the culprit is?
what part number is the little motor?
That's kinda funny.... disclaimer for a DIY video... DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!?!?
I used a toy motor from Lego kit, works well.
You can also buy replacement motors for under 20 bucks
I have a 2000 ford f350 crewcab. I just got it. is it possible that all 4 actuators are bad on it?
Yes! I also have a 2000 F350. Over the course of a year or two, all four of mine failed. I used this method to repair them. I never expect to have to do it again!
I'm not sure what ford is protecting us from by putting in these parts. Plus, it's a real bummer that they fail!!!
Getting the door apart and back together is the hardest part of the job, in my opinion.
Thanks thanks thanks for you
Sir my car i20 thermistor inside the motor is heating up quickly. How to repair it??
Is it the same for a 2000 ford ranger
About did this until i saw the whole actuator is $14 -$25 bucks on amazon. Neat to know though ig
i believe locking the posistor is no good idea
I just spent $50 and replaced both my motors, you know, doing it the proper way. :D
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
These things are eleven bucks per side.
+Pondart Inc As of 11-7-15, these are actuators are $36.26 on Amazon. (98 f-150)
p dv Go to ebay. I just installed two.
Who was the seller at Ebay to you?
p dv sinauto2011
Bad Boy? what is a Bad Boy, according to acceptable English
Don’t be cheap and buy the pair $14 on eBay
What a botch repair with aluminum foil - have fun if your car burns down because of a possible cable fire
Listen, Good "Youtute"(thats what i call youtube tutorials) except, It has same flaw as about 90% of youtube videos INCOMPLETE!, I know I sound like a hater or ingrate, but I'm not. I'm just saying, If your going to take the time and effort to share your knowledge and expertize? Why not show it complete, not in the middle of project?
Example: this tute starts and im like,WTF! why is this guy not showing us dis-assembly procedure? way more important than assembly. If your going to leave steps out? leave out the assembly portion!
Thanks for the video! #FuckFord
Thanks man, i repaired my Mondeo mk3 by this way, i opened the motor and was full of a black dust, i washed it with WD40, and i did exactly as in your video, works great now!
thanks help me a lot by doing this easy video gracias amigo
thanks help me a lot by doing this easy video gracias amigo