Thank you teacher. It is because of people like you I m able to get free education that I otherwise would not afford. Keep posting. You are making a difference
WOW! You are like an encylopedia of so much knowledege that you boggle my brain! I have to watch these videos sometimes 3 to 4 times to get the full effect and or even understanding of wtf you are getting at! I love what your passing on to us! Kinna scale it down for us non chemists!
I have several friends that have a PhD great resources for those of us that want to talk dirt and roots, the difference between you and them. 1 Passion, 2. Applied knowledge! You were right on the money as usual! You may be too much for a dyi, but what your teaching others has taken me years to learn, but most often I am forced to take notes, great teaching!
I just found this and it was great! So much good information condensed and straight to the point but so clearly explained. I'm going to watch the whole thing again right now
Thanks for all the videos. Do you have a website and maybe a pre-m and post schedule for warm season grasses? I like the idea of combining and rotating herbicides, but it was a lot to take in for a new guy.
Matt straight up dropping the knowledge like boom! Thank you again for your time and sharing your knowledge. Loving the garage edition. You just need a white board in there.
Matt, I just want to start by saying Thank You for the time, effort and insight that goes into making videos/sharing your expertise to help DIYers, such as myself, to grow and experience a little succes when it comes to lawn care. My question to you is: Do you recommend applying the ammonium sulfate to lower pH in the case of a lawn that is alkaline due to having watered with filtered water for some years now, and struggling, especially during the higher temps of summer? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
With my state reg at 2.7lb N for TF, I'm amazed you use over 4lb. My state says 1.8lb in fall with 2 apps and 1 optional .9 app in spring with a max of .7 quick release per app. I heard there are people using 1.5lb per year for TF and it looks great. I'm using 2.7 and it grows too fast and looks great. I may try cutting down. Guess the rest of the soil test becomes more important at really low N rates. I haven't had summer disease problems but it is warmer where you are.
Well explained I normally have too watch them twice for it all to sink in I will be using it over winter to hopefully get me going quicker next year as my season seems to be shortening recently many thanks for taking the time to educate everyone
I did research all day and figured out that ammonium sulfate or any quick release nitrogen is toxic to put down when soil temp is below 60 degrees. I put down a bag of lesco 19-0-7 dithiopyr slow release a while back, not on may 15 I'm putting down andersons barricade slow release. Next up to bat is my ferti lome weed out which has slow and fast release. Moral of the story... gotta be 60 ground temp for my weed out
Also, molybdenum is mostly available to the grass when at 7 PH, considered adequate at 6.35 PH, and deficiency can occur at 6 PH or below. Without molybdenum, grass can become twisted and marginal scorching can occur. I am thinking that possibly this is why fast release fertilizer can burn lawn? Because of ammonium sulfate being at a 5.4 to 5.5 PH, this can lower the PH too much too quick and loose function of the molybdenum
Molybdenum is the only micronutrient that has increased availability as the PH increases, 6.5 PH is adequate. Unnecessary applications of molybdenum can be toxic. So this is telling me that everyone with perennial ryegrass should be between 6.35 and 7.5 but if applying quick release, I should throw down some lime to replace hydrogen ions, provide calcium and magnesium to soil.... then pop down my quick release to get my benefits of that. I'm starting to think that instead of organic slow release nitrogen, I can play around with lime and ammonium sulfate to maximize results
We need a book from you. About cool season grasses and worm grasses. On how to apply for fertilizer went to put weed killer for each one zone You guys don’t talk much about Southern California but there’s a big group of people that were listening every week For the bible of grasses
So much great information! Thank you so much. I bought Epsoma Ammonium Sulphate bought at a mah & pah landscape store last year here in Chicagoland with great fast results. I only went away from it because I already had multiple year's big-box store brand fertilizers. Never again; after this year I go back to a better win-win. The yard I keep is just 800 square-feet; consequently, I don't ring up the cash registers that much to spend more money towards more effective fertilizers.
I really enjoyed that. I learned a few things I didn't know, and will absolutely apply to next year's fert program. I wanted to point out how powerful ams is when dealing with high salt content. I spent a few years on a golf course with high salinity irrigation, and man you should have seen the pop we got out of ams applications. It was the major N source for our greens program.
Got some localized burn on an area that didn't get proper irrigation coverage after using ammonium sulfate recently. You're right it was totally gone within 10 days.
Ok Matt, now that we’ve fought the algorithm has every one of your feeds on my recommendations list 😂 Do you have a SIMPLE lawn care program for cool season grass? I’d prefer if you recommended products you like and times of applications Looking to import next year or maybe spend less for better results. If you don’t have time I’ll still love you. Maybe the algorithm will swap you out for someone I can hate on more. Thank you
Hi! LOVE YOUR CHANNEL! I’m in northern Indiana-cool zone. My pH is 7.5+ in my backyard and 7-7.5 in my front. I’ve been researching how to quickly lower my pH, prior to seeding in a week or so. I plan to seed barenbrug rtf (I have two big dogs). Would you recommend putting this down, to lower my pH? Also, how quickly can I seed after?
Also, to note, I’ve used Freedom fertilizer, dethatch, milorganite and now gypsum in the past 3 weeks. My yard looks tremendously better. I’m also installing an irrigation system prior to seeding.
Great video, very informative and you’re obviously very knowledgeable! I’m a small channel and just bought some ammonium sulphate which I plan on applying to my bentgrass putting green, so what would you recommend as a mixing rate per 1000sqft? I done won’t to risk burning the green through trial and error. I also just Subscribed, good content! 👍🏼
Matt. My soil has a sulfur level of 164.22, where the optimal range is between 7 and 16. This is 10 times greater than the max it should be. Should I be worried about sulfer toxicity. If so, how do I reduce the sulfur levels?
Matt i got kind of a noob question about ams soil vs foliar application. Assuming i would dissolve ams in my backspack sprayer and use the appropriate nozzle (coarse droplet for soil / mist for foliar) what is the fundamental application different ? For foliar do you simply let it sit on the grass blade vs soil applied means you would run the irrigation system right after spraying ?
Soil applied would really just be spreading ams granular. Even spraying it and letting it sit, most of the uptake is still occuring through the roots/soil. Because plants rely on diffusion for foliar uptake, it's pretty difficult to get to or beyond 50% foliar efficiency. Also you're dependent on how long it can stay wet on the leaf blade without drying.
@@TheGrassFactor understood sir. So if most uptake happens via the soil i presume its ok for me to spray with a corse droplet tip and water in the application ? Btw thank you for being such a genuine person and keeping it to the facts
I am in New York so would you say that the best time to apply this would be early spring and late fall wouldn’t make sense to do an application Midsummer that’s question one question two is do you get a darker green then let’s just say a 25 -0-6 with 5% iron?
Coming back on here after ten months.... Is the money you save on Nitrogen applied taken up by the cost of the Lime to be applied to offset Ph level drop...?
I have a 12 month growing season. So, grass is fertilized at a sliding scale depending on what type of grass and other conditions. Unlike people in the Continental US, 5 different types of grass are grown here under varying climate and soil conditions. The idea of one rate of N and one do all blend will not work here.
Question - I have a bermuda grass lawn that is a little on the alkaline side and need to lower the PH to make it more acidic. Will ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 do the trick or should I use a more balanced fertilizer like 21-7-14?
I wonder if this is why HyRBrix lawn fertilizer says it lasts so long. Once in spring and another app in fall. Due to the sulfur content possibly from Amonium Sulfate (sulfur)?
Part of the reason, sure. There's also encapsulated urea, which is similar to osmocote, micronutrients, calcium, and potassium sulfate which all aide in color duration
Do you have an (NH4)2SO4 product you'd recommend to a pro-sumer homeowner? Can't seem to find it anywhere local. I've been using APF granular 21-0-0 from seed world, it's worked great in my war on basic pH but the shipping is killing me and can't seem to make it down to the Tampa area often enough. I'm guessing the liquid route is the way to go?
Hey all, was thinking of putting some of this down in combination with sulfur and citric acid to lower PH. I also wanted to reseed in the next week or so. Can this be used as a starter fertilizer or is doing all this before reseeding bad? Thanks, looking forward to your response!
Matt, after a soil sample test on my Bermuda lawn’s soil (Oklahoma red clay) and having a pH of 7.8, would you recommend applying your charted recommendation for ammonium sulfate during the winter months or waiting until the summer? Also, should I split those up over a few months or apply all at once? Thank you in advance sir!
This year I'm trying Lebanon Proscape 20-0-5 with MESA. It lists 2% "ammoniacal nitrogen" ("ammonium sulfate" right?) and 13.5% UREA. So, is the "MESA" the ammonium sulfate? And when you talk about using AMS, is it in a mix like this with a relatively low %? Or do you use it at higher %'s? Manager at Site One was saying a lot of his customers likes the AMS to get better green up in the spring, in terms of the deep coloring.
Mesa is Methylene urea and ammonium sulfate. Methylene urea is a a slow release urea formaldehyde. It releases inconsistently so they add the AMS to give it a quick pop, especially in cool weather, and the methylene urea will hopefully hold the color. I use it as a straight ammonium sulfate. That mix is 10% AMS. Nothing wrong with it,it's a very good fert, it's just too expensive in my area for the result to justify the cost
Makes sense, as a business owner you may not be able to justify its cost. OTOH, as a homeowner whats an extra $15 for something that will last me a season or two :o)
My lawn's Ph was >8.5 with the turf looking really bad after overapplication of lime. I've put out amonium sulphate on my lawn to lower the Ph. 4 Weeks later, the turf is looking better and is now stable around 7.5. Summer is coming in here and I'm wondering to go for a slowrelease organic fert or to put another application with amonium sulphate out there to push the Ph further down. I was advised to put out organics on the 6th week. I started with the minimum dosage bagrate amonium sulphate and was thinking to put out the difference with maximum bagrate out there as quick as possible. And wait for an extra week before applying the organics. Note I also put out max bagrate iron sulphate on week 2 and humics on week 3. Any thoughts on this?
Hello David, My suggestion for your lawn, is to use Blood fish and bone, that will green everything up and do it gently for you. Also consider using a soil microbe application, i.e. Bacteria and beneficial fungi as I see you mention using humics, humic acid is preferred by mycorrhiza fungi, which will aid your lawn in drought. I hope that helps in some way. If you are still not getting the green you want, go for some Mg.
@@dalewoodhams8364 Thanks for the suggestions. I did however applied the ammoniumsulphate. The organics I have laying around are blood and bonemeal based, so will be applying next week when the hottest days are gone. As for tge fungi and bacteria, already applied these. Not sure how these affect the Ph. Mg is also applied monthly. The turf is greening up, so far now. Seems like the ammoniumsulphate is doing it's job, but only a very short amount of time before it is neutralized. Ph rised a bit again, but probably won't get near 7 this summer. Probably will have to baby the turf to supplement the high ph by leaf fertilizing when there is a colder spell.
Hello @@C7pherr, I wonder what signs your grass is showing? Do you really need to add Mg? My best solution considering your reply, is to add a top layer of worm compost, with the bone meal, then add some new mixed grass seed. If you have the opportunity of being able to visit a proper grass seed supplier, find their best seed sack, for your needs and lick a finger, dip it in to the seeds, pull it out and count the number of different types of seed that you see. A long time ago, grass always included clover and the school mix had chamomile included. I'm not clear on what type of lawn you wish to have, are you looking for a bowling green, golf green perfect look or are you just wanting a hard wearing lawn? You say that your lawn's PH is reading 8.5 after a mistake with adding lime, best not to repeat that. What you might not know or learn, is that plants set their own ph, meaning that the same plant will control and change the electrical flow and ph readings at different root levels for different needs. Also visit your local fuel station or fishing shop and grab a bucket of soil worms, you call them red wigglers and night crawlers I think? Set them loose on your lawn after a good watering during an evening to help with lawn aeration and then give your lawn another dose of fungus and bacteria. Grass is more fungus dominated. Then sit back and enjoy.
@@dalewoodhams8364 Thanks for the abundance of information! No need to worry, the grass is dense and green. But mostly thanks to aireation and ammoniumsulphate. Bacteria are added monthly, the product also contains Mg, as for fungi, these were added massively last year. I didn't know it contained lime also, so that was the culprit. Compost last October, peat in April. Heat is here now, it was the last week to try to correct the pH. But if the plant manages their own conductivity in the soil, I probably shouldn't worry for the time coming. Thanks again!
Intending to use AMS this season, diluted in a sprayer, does anyone know the ratio required of Lime, so I don't upset the pH? Or is this a silly question?
Considering that I had a relatively high sodic soil test, with pH in 5.5 range come back last year, would you recommend that I stay away from AMS? I've added many many bags of dolomitic lime to the yard since June of last year. I'm curious to see what kind of change I will have gained in the CEC and pH levels when I do my next test.
On the rare occasion that I am dealing with a 5.5 pH soil and trying to grow Bermuda, my N is from Calcium Nitrate. That will raise pH and be a source of instantly available Calcium. When you said your soil is Sodic, is that high Sodium? If so, the available Calcium will displace and remove the Sodium from your soil.
Last year my first Extension soil test pH came in at 4.9 in the front yard, and 4.4 in the back, and I was trying to growing bermuda, your recommendation is spot on. Alternatively, my Soil Salinity test came back at 5.5 & 5.7 pH respectively(which I think was more accurate), with an ec of 0.21, 138.6 ppm of Total Soluble Salts and a Sodium Absorption Ratio of 0.35, which effectively meant that I had a sodium barrier that was preventing water to percolate through the soil normally. My extension agent and I gathered that due to the high water table and salinity in the groundwater formed this barrier over years. I've been treating the lot with several hundred pounds of Gypsum to bind up some of the Na in the soil, and achieving positive results with reduction in standing water in the lot. If I used to get 1"+ of rain in a few hours, I'd have standing water for DAYS.
You are an example of a case where AS is not a good idea. I have used Calcium Nitrate as the N source on low Calcium soils to the exclusion of other sources with good effects on soil chemistry. Gypsum is not my favorite thing to apply. It moves through existing turf so slowly. Calcium Nitrate at 5 lb per 1000 sq ft per month of growing season works much faster.
Bought 4 gal backpack 2nd app el sulphuric & citric .Just received ams. What weight of product mix per 1000sf St. Aug. N Florida mid August? Apply early am on dry blades best ?
A saturated solution of AS is ~5 or 5.5, adding FS to it will drop it further to about 4. But just because you're at 4 doesn't mean you're at an appropriate molar ratio, so I would use mass for rates rather than pH
My soil sample came back with high ph and they recommended ammonium sulfate but I can’t seem to find it anywhere in my area. A store about an hour away has spray grade but it doesn’t say anything about using it as fert says it’s to mix with herbicides? Is it the same thing or different? Thanks
Old comment so you may have already figured this out, but yes, you can spread the granular AMS. I buy 51 pound bags of sprayable AMS from Rural King for less than $15 a bag. This is way, WAY cheaper than Amazon. I first purchased it to add to my glyphosate spray to reduce the effects of hard water. I now spread the granular AMS as a nitrogen fertilizer.
@@TheGrassFactor I know in the Navy, nuking something is making it way more difficult than it needs to be. It comes from guys who work in the nuclear power engineroom who tend to be smart. I will say, doing that stuff in my previous career has made lawn care/pH control much easier!
Gene Manning` I apologize. Honestly, my target audience is for the advanced homeowner or in-industry professional. I'm not very good at teaching, so I use this channel to further my own knowledge to help further the knowledge of those in the industry.
no apologies needed brother. i love all your videos and gave me some pretty good knowledge and info from a DIY homeowners point of view. i figured this video was more for the advanced most likely commercial guys. keep up the great videos!
Thank you teacher. It is because of people like you I m able to get free education that I otherwise would not afford. Keep posting. You are making a difference
WOW! You are like an encylopedia of so much knowledege that you boggle my brain! I have to watch these videos sometimes 3 to 4 times to get the full effect and or even understanding of wtf you are getting at! I love what your passing on to us! Kinna scale it down for us non chemists!
I have several friends that have a PhD great resources for those of us that want to talk dirt and roots, the difference between you and them. 1 Passion, 2. Applied knowledge!
You were right on the money as usual! You may be too much for a dyi, but what your teaching others has taken me years to learn, but most often I am forced to take notes, great teaching!
Thanks buddy, I really appreciate it!
I just found this and it was great! So much good information condensed and straight to the point but so clearly explained. I'm going to watch the whole thing again right now
Thanks for all the videos. Do you have a website and maybe a pre-m and post schedule for warm season grasses? I like the idea of combining and rotating herbicides, but it was a lot to take in for a new guy.
Matt straight up dropping the knowledge like boom!
Thank you again for your time and sharing your knowledge. Loving the garage edition. You just need a white board in there.
No doubt! It's coming...
Great vid Matt - Appreciate the depth of knowledge share. Also your work in creating a community around turf knowledge is really appreciated as well.
Matt, I just want to start by saying Thank You for the time, effort and insight that goes into making videos/sharing your expertise to help DIYers, such as myself, to grow and experience a little succes when it comes to lawn care. My question to you is: Do you recommend applying the ammonium sulfate to lower pH in the case of a lawn that is alkaline due to having watered with filtered water for some years now, and struggling, especially during the higher temps of summer? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! Yes sir, any lawn thats alkaline, I recommend ammonium sulfate
With my state reg at 2.7lb N for TF, I'm amazed you use over 4lb. My state says 1.8lb in fall with 2 apps and 1 optional .9 app in spring with a max of .7 quick release per app. I heard there are people using 1.5lb per year for TF and it looks great. I'm using 2.7 and it grows too fast and looks great. I may try cutting down. Guess the rest of the soil test becomes more important at really low N rates. I haven't had summer disease problems but it is warmer where you are.
Well explained I normally have too watch them twice for it all to sink in I will be using it over winter to hopefully get me going quicker next year as my season seems to be shortening recently many thanks for taking the time to educate everyone
Great info. Does ammonium hurt worms when applied?
Haha I love that you are able to talk about fertilizer for 20 minutes. I'm just like this is what fert looks like, put it down =P
I had to cut down the notes I took by half... And even that was a reduction 😂😂
LOL Grass Daddy !
I did research all day and figured out that ammonium sulfate or any quick release nitrogen is toxic to put down when soil temp is below 60 degrees. I put down a bag of lesco 19-0-7 dithiopyr slow release a while back, not on may 15 I'm putting down andersons barricade slow release. Next up to bat is my ferti lome weed out which has slow and fast release. Moral of the story... gotta be 60 ground temp for my weed out
Also, molybdenum is mostly available to the grass when at 7 PH, considered adequate at 6.35 PH, and deficiency can occur at 6 PH or below. Without molybdenum, grass can become twisted and marginal scorching can occur. I am thinking that possibly this is why fast release fertilizer can burn lawn? Because of ammonium sulfate being at a 5.4 to 5.5 PH, this can lower the PH too much too quick and loose function of the molybdenum
Molybdenum is the only micronutrient that has increased availability as the PH increases, 6.5 PH is adequate. Unnecessary applications of molybdenum can be toxic. So this is telling me that everyone with perennial ryegrass should be between 6.35 and 7.5 but if applying quick release, I should throw down some lime to replace hydrogen ions, provide calcium and magnesium to soil.... then pop down my quick release to get my benefits of that. I'm starting to think that instead of organic slow release nitrogen, I can play around with lime and ammonium sulfate to maximize results
I love your vids. Very informative. I feel good retaininghalf of what you said.i have to watch your vids several times .
We need a book from you. About cool season grasses and worm grasses. On how to apply for fertilizer went to put weed killer for each one zone
You guys don’t talk much about Southern California but there’s a big group of people that were listening every week
For the bible of grasses
So much great information!
Thank you so much.
I bought Epsoma Ammonium Sulphate bought at a mah & pah landscape store last year here in Chicagoland with great fast results. I only went away from it because I already had multiple year's big-box store brand fertilizers. Never again; after this year I go back to a better win-win. The yard I keep is just 800 square-feet; consequently, I don't ring up the cash registers that much to spend more money towards more effective fertilizers.
The Guru gracing us! Thank you for the opportunity for us 🫡
Awesome information. My brain is full now.
If I apply for Agricultural Engineering at University, I know where to get my lectures from. It is fucking comprehensive. Many thanks.
Damn bro, you have a lot of knowledge on the subject. Well done sir! Class is definitely in session!!!
Greetings from Arizona zone 9b. Thanks for the tips, tricks and info!
I really enjoyed that. I learned a few things I didn't know, and will absolutely apply to next year's fert program. I wanted to point out how powerful ams is when dealing with high salt content. I spent a few years on a golf course with high salinity irrigation, and man you should have seen the pop we got out of ams applications. It was the major N source for our greens program.
Got some localized burn on an area that didn't get proper irrigation coverage after using ammonium sulfate recently. You're right it was totally gone within 10 days.
We learn so much from you, keep teaching
Ok Matt, now that we’ve fought the algorithm has every one of your feeds on my recommendations list 😂
Do you have a SIMPLE lawn care program for cool season grass?
I’d prefer if you recommended products you like and times of applications Looking to import next year or maybe spend less for better results.
If you don’t have time I’ll still love you. Maybe the algorithm will swap you out for someone I can hate on more. Thank you
I just wanted to know how to fertilize my garden. It’s like you’re talking in a foreign language
Matt, you are the king !!!
Hi! LOVE YOUR CHANNEL! I’m in northern Indiana-cool zone. My pH is 7.5+ in my backyard and 7-7.5 in my front. I’ve been researching how to quickly lower my pH, prior to seeding in a week or so. I plan to seed barenbrug rtf (I have two big dogs). Would you recommend putting this down, to lower my pH? Also, how quickly can I seed after?
Also, to note, I’ve used Freedom fertilizer, dethatch, milorganite and now gypsum in the past 3 weeks. My yard looks tremendously better. I’m also installing an irrigation system prior to seeding.
And, I have clay soil! Sorry, for the multiple comments!!! Lol
Great video, very informative and you’re obviously very knowledgeable! I’m a small channel and just bought some ammonium sulphate which I plan on applying to my bentgrass putting green, so what would you recommend as a mixing rate per 1000sqft? I done won’t to risk burning the green through trial and error. I also just Subscribed, good content! 👍🏼
Matt. My soil has a sulfur level of 164.22, where the optimal range is between 7 and 16. This is 10 times greater than the max it should be. Should I be worried about sulfer toxicity. If so, how do I reduce the sulfur levels?
Another great video!! Can you do a video on cleaning you 100 gallon or 200 gallon tank?
Matt i got kind of a noob question about ams soil vs foliar application. Assuming i would dissolve ams in my backspack sprayer and use the appropriate nozzle (coarse droplet for soil / mist for foliar) what is the fundamental application different ? For foliar do you simply let it sit on the grass blade vs soil applied means you would run the irrigation system right after spraying ?
Soil applied would really just be spreading ams granular. Even spraying it and letting it sit, most of the uptake is still occuring through the roots/soil. Because plants rely on diffusion for foliar uptake, it's pretty difficult to get to or beyond 50% foliar efficiency. Also you're dependent on how long it can stay wet on the leaf blade without drying.
@@TheGrassFactor understood sir. So if most uptake happens via the soil i presume its ok for me to spray with a corse droplet tip and water in the application ? Btw thank you for being such a genuine person and keeping it to the facts
LOL - this is the guy who was always the first to put his hand up in class "me, me, me - I know" --LOL
LOL!
I am in New York so would you say that the best time to apply this would be early spring and late fall wouldn’t make sense to do an application Midsummer that’s question one question two is do you get a darker green then let’s just say a 25 -0-6 with 5% iron?
Coming back on here after ten months....
Is the money you save on Nitrogen applied taken up by the cost of the Lime to be applied to offset Ph level drop...?
HI. could you tell me the quantity per square meter of ammonium sulphate to apply on the lawn?
1/2 lb of N as AS gets grass just as green if not greener than 1 lb of N as Urea. With far less surge growth.
rey3472 read an old friend from Hawaii writing that for years. Worked exactly as described 🤣
Until manufacturers make a 100% AS coated slow release fertilizer, I will never use granules on grass.
Do you run AS all year? if not when do you decide to not run AS
I have a 12 month growing season. So, grass is fertilized at a sliding scale depending on what type of grass and other conditions. Unlike people in the Continental US, 5 different types of grass are grown here under varying climate and soil conditions. The idea of one rate of N and one do all blend will not work here.
Question - I have a bermuda grass lawn that is a little on the alkaline side and need to lower the PH to make it more acidic. Will ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 do the trick or should I use a more balanced fertilizer like 21-7-14?
I wonder if this is why HyRBrix lawn fertilizer says it lasts so long. Once in spring and another app in fall.
Due to the sulfur content possibly from Amonium Sulfate (sulfur)?
Part of the reason, sure. There's also encapsulated urea, which is similar to osmocote, micronutrients, calcium, and potassium sulfate which all aide in color duration
The Grass Factor Good to know and thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Do you have an (NH4)2SO4 product you'd recommend to a pro-sumer homeowner? Can't seem to find it anywhere local. I've been using APF granular 21-0-0 from seed world, it's worked great in my war on basic pH but the shipping is killing me and can't seem to make it down to the Tampa area often enough. I'm guessing the liquid route is the way to go?
Hey all, was thinking of putting some of this down in combination with sulfur and citric acid to lower PH. I also wanted to reseed in the next week or so. Can this be used as a starter fertilizer or is doing all this before reseeding bad? Thanks, looking forward to your response!
If ammonium sulfate is the most acidifying form of nitrogen, what is the least acidifying form?
Calcium nitrate has a liming effect, potassium nitrate is pH neutral.
Hat looks good!
My favorite place on the i-net!
Man I just give the local farmer a case a Bud to hit the yard with AA. ;). Go big or go home.
I was about to buy the wrong fert until I talked to this man.
Great talk
Matt, after a soil sample test on my Bermuda lawn’s soil (Oklahoma red clay) and having a pH of 7.8, would you recommend applying your charted recommendation for ammonium sulfate during the winter months or waiting until the summer? Also, should I split those up over a few months or apply all at once? Thank you in advance sir!
For Bermuda, Only apply when actively growing. Do not load soils in the off season, so may-september apply monthly or bi-weekly depending on rate
This year I'm trying Lebanon Proscape 20-0-5 with MESA. It lists 2% "ammoniacal nitrogen" ("ammonium sulfate" right?) and 13.5% UREA. So, is the "MESA" the ammonium sulfate? And when you talk about using AMS, is it in a mix like this with a relatively low %? Or do you use it at higher %'s? Manager at Site One was saying a lot of his customers likes the AMS to get better green up in the spring, in terms of the deep coloring.
Mesa is Methylene urea and ammonium sulfate. Methylene urea is a a slow release urea formaldehyde. It releases inconsistently so they add the AMS to give it a quick pop, especially in cool weather, and the methylene urea will hopefully hold the color. I use it as a straight ammonium sulfate. That mix is 10% AMS. Nothing wrong with it,it's a very good fert, it's just too expensive in my area for the result to justify the cost
Makes sense, as a business owner you may not be able to justify its cost. OTOH, as a homeowner whats an extra $15 for something that will last me a season or two :o)
🤣🤣🤣
Is ammonium sulfate damaging to citrus trees when I apply it to my surrounding lawn?
No
jast an explanation: how does the ammonium solfate produce oxygen in soil ?
Matt how does Methylene urea compare? I'm hearing it's the way to go for a nice slow release nitrogen.
MESA is in a league of it's own!
Can ammonium sulfate be devolved in water and injected in the irrigation system
Yes
@@TheGrassFactor how much lb per gallon
My lawn's Ph was >8.5 with the turf looking really bad after overapplication of lime. I've put out amonium sulphate on my lawn to lower the Ph. 4 Weeks later, the turf is looking better and is now stable around 7.5. Summer is coming in here and I'm wondering to go for a slowrelease organic fert or to put another application with amonium sulphate out there to push the Ph further down. I was advised to put out organics on the 6th week. I started with the minimum dosage bagrate amonium sulphate and was thinking to put out the difference with maximum bagrate out there as quick as possible. And wait for an extra week before applying the organics. Note I also put out max bagrate iron sulphate on week 2 and humics on week 3. Any thoughts on this?
Hello David,
My suggestion for your lawn, is to use Blood fish and bone, that will green everything up and do it gently for you. Also consider using a soil microbe application, i.e. Bacteria and beneficial fungi as I see you mention using humics, humic acid is preferred by mycorrhiza fungi, which will aid your lawn in drought. I hope that helps in some way. If you are still not getting the green you want, go for some Mg.
@@dalewoodhams8364 Thanks for the suggestions. I did however applied the ammoniumsulphate. The organics I have laying around are blood and bonemeal based, so will be applying next week when the hottest days are gone. As for tge fungi and bacteria, already applied these. Not sure how these affect the Ph. Mg is also applied monthly. The turf is greening up, so far now. Seems like the ammoniumsulphate is doing it's job, but only a very short amount of time before it is neutralized. Ph rised a bit again, but probably won't get near 7 this summer. Probably will have to baby the turf to supplement the high ph by leaf fertilizing when there is a colder spell.
Hello @@C7pherr, I wonder what signs your grass is showing? Do you really need to add Mg? My best solution considering your reply, is to add a top layer of worm compost, with the bone meal, then add some new mixed grass seed. If you have the opportunity of being able to visit a proper grass seed supplier, find their best seed sack, for your needs and lick a finger, dip it in to the seeds, pull it out and count the number of different types of seed that you see. A long time ago, grass always included clover and the school mix had chamomile included. I'm not clear on what type of lawn you wish to have, are you looking for a bowling green, golf green perfect look or are you just wanting a hard wearing lawn?
You say that your lawn's PH is reading 8.5 after a mistake with adding lime, best not to repeat that. What you might not know or learn, is that plants set their own ph, meaning that the same plant will control and change the electrical flow and ph readings at different root levels for different needs.
Also visit your local fuel station or fishing shop and grab a bucket of soil worms, you call them red wigglers and night crawlers I think? Set them loose on your lawn after a good watering during an evening to help with lawn aeration and then give your lawn another dose of fungus and bacteria. Grass is more fungus dominated. Then sit back and enjoy.
@@dalewoodhams8364 Thanks for the abundance of information! No need to worry, the grass is dense and green. But mostly thanks to aireation and ammoniumsulphate. Bacteria are added monthly, the product also contains Mg, as for fungi, these were added massively last year. I didn't know it contained lime also, so that was the culprit. Compost last October, peat in April. Heat is here now, it was the last week to try to correct the pH. But if the plant manages their own conductivity in the soil, I probably shouldn't worry for the time coming. Thanks again!
Intending to use AMS this season, diluted in a sprayer, does anyone know the ratio required of Lime, so I don't upset the pH? Or is this a silly question?
What is typical application for turff grass per 1000 sq ft ? I have high pH, around 8.0
John Malkowic what did you end up doing as my ph is also 7.5
Can I put down aluminum sulfate before seeding zoysia
Aluminum sulfate? No, not advised.aluminum toxicity on turf is a real thing
Considering that I had a relatively high sodic soil test, with pH in 5.5 range come back last year, would you recommend that I stay away from AMS? I've added many many bags of dolomitic lime to the yard since June of last year. I'm curious to see what kind of change I will have gained in the CEC and pH levels when I do my next test.
On the rare occasion that I am dealing with a 5.5 pH soil and trying to grow Bermuda, my N is from Calcium Nitrate. That will raise pH and be a source of instantly available Calcium. When you said your soil is Sodic, is that high Sodium? If so, the available Calcium will displace and remove the Sodium from your soil.
Last year my first Extension soil test pH came in at 4.9 in the front yard, and 4.4 in the back, and I was trying to growing bermuda, your recommendation is spot on. Alternatively, my Soil Salinity test came back at 5.5 & 5.7 pH respectively(which I think was more accurate), with an ec of 0.21, 138.6 ppm of Total Soluble Salts and a Sodium Absorption Ratio of 0.35, which effectively meant that I had a sodium barrier that was preventing water to percolate through the soil normally. My extension agent and I gathered that due to the high water table and salinity in the groundwater formed this barrier over years. I've been treating the lot with several hundred pounds of Gypsum to bind up some of the Na in the soil, and achieving positive results with reduction in standing water in the lot. If I used to get 1"+ of rain in a few hours, I'd have standing water for DAYS.
You are an example of a case where AS is not a good idea. I have used Calcium Nitrate as the N source on low Calcium soils to the exclusion of other sources with good effects on soil chemistry. Gypsum is not my favorite thing to apply. It moves through existing turf so slowly. Calcium Nitrate at 5 lb per 1000 sq ft per month of growing season works much faster.
For slow moving things, you could always core aerate before to help. I know, extra step...
@@rey3472 y
@4:46
"Darker Color" is the game, the whole game, and nothing but the game.
Bought 4 gal backpack 2nd app el sulphuric & citric .Just received ams. What weight of product mix per 1000sf St. Aug. N Florida mid August? Apply early am on dry blades best ?
I would apply AMS based on how much N you need
Hey Matt.
Do you have a Proper tank PH when spraying AS and or FAS (ferrous sulfate mixed with ammonium sulfate)
thanks!
A saturated solution of AS is ~5 or 5.5, adding FS to it will drop it further to about 4. But just because you're at 4 doesn't mean you're at an appropriate molar ratio, so I would use mass for rates rather than pH
@@TheGrassFactor oh Matt....over my head....But thanks man!!!
I MISS these individual vids you used to throw out. they were Great! I hope all is well!
Would corn benefit from ammonium sulfate?
In low sulfate soils and high pH soils, corn would respond really well to ammonium sulfate
@@TheGrassFactor Thanks!
You are the The Bible of grass
How long to see visible results after applying it usually? I have applied it 2 days ago at .2 lbs of N and dont see a visible change.
7-10 days
Also how long to leave it on the blades before irrigation before it becomes a problem at .2 lbs N?
Depends on carrier volume but 24hrs is fine
Late to this video, but can you suggest good sources of P and K if you throw this down on a bermuda lawn? Thanks!
Potassium phosphate is lowest salt indexand delivers p & k. Ammonium phosphate isn't bad either, delivers n & p. Sulfate of potash is good for just K
I’m having trouble finding Ammonium Sulfate. Non of the big box stores carry it near me.
Who carries it?
Propeat is all Ammonium sulfate. Home Depot has it online.
@@joelcolon5060 thanks Joel
Amazon has it on line.
in npk fertilizer, for N, where the nitric and ammonium nitrogen come from?..is it from urea?
Depends on the composition of the NPK fertiliser. Look at the ingredients. Does it contain nitrates or urea?
My soil sample came back with high ph and they recommended ammonium sulfate but I can’t seem to find it anywhere in my area. A store about an hour away has spray grade but it doesn’t say anything about using it as fert says it’s to mix with herbicides? Is it the same thing or different? Thanks
Trey Smallwood AMAZON
Old comment so you may have already figured this out, but yes, you can spread the granular AMS. I buy 51 pound bags of sprayable AMS from Rural King for less than $15 a bag. This is way, WAY cheaper than Amazon. I first purchased it to add to my glyphosate spray to reduce the effects of hard water. I now spread the granular AMS as a nitrogen fertilizer.
no need to atend.siminer.just watch ur.vedeo thats enough thank u
Too far out there for me to do a risk is one thing BUT DAMN
The most frustrating part of this video is this.... 100 lbs per acre 249 lbs per acre.....
Love ya buddy but MAN you NUC every video. I’m soooooo confused bro. Still a 👍🏼 from me bud.
NUC? 🤣
As in nuclear physics.... Which I disagree with. I totally understand your explanations. 🤓
@@TheGrassFactor I know in the Navy, nuking something is making it way more difficult than it needs to be. It comes from guys who work in the nuclear power engineroom who tend to be smart. I will say, doing that stuff in my previous career has made lawn care/pH control much easier!
I have Alkaline soil
Aluminum is very toxic to plants. Ammonium sulfate is a better choice. Or Citric Acid, or elemental sulfur, or a combination of the 3.
Anyone...anyone...? Fell asleep.
way too confusing for a DIY homeowner
Gene Manning` I apologize. Honestly, my target audience is for the advanced homeowner or in-industry professional. I'm not very good at teaching, so I use this channel to further my own knowledge to help further the knowledge of those in the industry.
no apologies needed brother. i love all your videos and gave me some pretty good knowledge and info from a DIY homeowners point of view. i figured this video was more for the advanced most likely commercial guys. keep up the great videos!
I'm a DIY homeowner and love this stuff!! 👍👍
LCN always says
“ repetition is the key”
Gene Manning` I was like 🤔💥brain exploded.
Do you have a email I can ask a few questions
Mail@thegrassfactor.tv
@@TheGrassFactor thanks just sent it, thank you for the response!