Replacing Front Wheel Bearing and Brake Rotor on 2004 Ford F 150 (2WD)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ย. 2020
- I replace both front wheel bearings and brake rotors on my mom's 2WD, 2004 Ford F-150.
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I was beginning to think I was the only one with a 2wd, great video thanks
For those that are on a tight budget and don’t wanna replace the whole brake rotor, you can replace just the bearing. I just replaced both my front bearings because my rotors were still good. I rented a bearing remover from auto zone, part number is 57205. It was 250 but I got my money back after returning it. Bearing for my 05 f150 2wd was a national brand 517014 from Oreillys.
All I needed to know about Marcus was known when I saw his surroundings and heard his accent. Love you brother.
Best video instruction on this job i've seen. Helped me out a lot. One thing i will add is, when you change to new rotors, always use brand new pads.
It was my mom's truck and she didn't bring me any but yeah, hers were pretty rough looking.
I've done this a few times on my '07 FX2 with 225,000 miles. Some reason it's usually the right side that starts howling. I'll be doing it again tomorrow. Torque spec for the nut is 295 ft/lbs. I didn't have a torque wrench that would go that high first time and damaged the bearing getting it on too tight. Lasted only a year. Second time I torqued it right and it's run about 5 years or more.
Finally someone post a video of 2wd I'm going to replace them my self thanks for sharing sir 👍
Here's hoping it went well for you. Thanks for watching, :-)
Hell no he put a lot of torque way waaay to much jizzz they go like 10 pounds of torque only he put in hes body weight 😂
@@miguelsereno8697 The Ford spindle nut torque spec from my local dealer was 296 foot Lbs.They also recommended rotating the rotor counter clockwise 5 or 6 times to seat the bearing and then retorque.
Great job of explaining and camera work. I feel your pain on the time it takes to produce a video. For me it easily triples the actual work time. Thanks again and stay safe. 👍😷🍺
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Thank you for the tip on not using an impact to tighten the lock nut
Awesome video! Very informative. I feel like I can do it myself now. Hard to find videos on a 2004 2WD F-150. Thank you 👍
Really great video, most informative I have seen on this subject.
Glad it was helpful!
I really appreciate this video, thank you for posting it. I was unable to find the part before watching this video
I have to do this to my baby this weekend....your video is excellent, you explained everything perfectly. Thanks!!!
Glad it was helpful!
The best part of utube for me. watch, repeat, done. Thankx for the video. I have the skills and aptitude so having a quick to do makes it much faster. time is money. I don't have a lot of the latter!
my man. been looking exactly for this. thanks!
Thank You!! Great Vid for us guys without shop tools!!
Great video with the layman touch. I watched other videos and all it did was confuse me. One minor thing that I was hoping to see was what the axel thing should look like that the new hub was going on to.
Since this is 2WD it's just a spindle. It's literally just a smooth shaft that the bearings sort of rest against. If it's 4WD the bearing and everything will look a little different. In a 4WD you'd have front axles with a spline that would spline into the hub in order to deliver power to the front wheels. On a 2WD it's literally just a smooth shaft to hold everything together, but it's passive, it doesn't really "do" anything. There may be some factory striations or texture to it, and maybe "some" wear, but you want to make sure there's no cracks, no deep gouges, grooves or scores, etc. It should also be an exact fit in terms of diameter. When the bearings are on there should be no perceivable play or wobble between the spindle and the bearings.
Good idea to change both at same time thanks good content 👍
Had same problem with my 2006 F150. Replace rotor and wheel bearing along with brake caliper. Caliper was sticking and caused bearing to get hot and messed up bearing. After replacing everything it quietenend up no more noise. Also replaced break pads. New tires along with brake work my truck runs like new
Very well done! Great teacher.
Fine video work and explaining procedures were perfect.
Excellent Video! Much thanks.
Great video! Thanks for sharing
I took my wheel off just to check the bearings. The rear bearing fell apart all over the ground. Street sweeping was the next day and I had to move the truck so I had to get it back together. I still chained the bearing.. it ate up the abs sensor. So the abs light stayed on. Don't wait to change the bearing. A Dremel, bearing puller and days later were needed to finish. I didn't have the spindle nut retainer on either side. AutoZone didn't even list them for sale. I wonder if they depend on torque alone to hold the nut in?
It's a nylock nut and has that little cotter pin, so it's a combination of torque, additional friction from that nylon and, worst case scenario, if it starts to back off, the cotter pin should offer enough resistance to stop it.
Good lnfo this holds true to a 6 lug wheel a 5 lug wheel you can only get separate parts bearing and seal and rotor
Your Camera work is the best. Excellent how to video. 1+1/2 uhgs for torque. LOL...
I actually just did my front wheel bearing hub assembly on my ‘11 F350 4x4 last month! What a coincidence! lol
Thank you Marcus your explanation was very good 👍 good job i have the same truck 🛻 and I am going to do it myself thank you and Hello to you and your family From Puerto Rico 🇵🇷🇺🇸🙏👋❤️
Great video.
Doing mine now
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for the Knowledge
Thank you very much for this video sir
great job on this video ..... excellent
Nice. Thank you! Gotta love your standing on the breaker bar 1ft out and if you are 295 lbs. bingo.
Well I'm not quite 295 so I bounced a little, but yeah I figured that was close enough. It's been on there now a couple years without issue.
Excelent video!! Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video
Great job
Great job!
Thanks!
Thanks Bud 👍👍👍
Thanks
Where did you pick up the assembly?
I would advise to change brake pads any time you change rotors. Those that were on there needed changed anyway. Those axle nuts are buggers to get off!
I mentioned that to her because I too noticed that even though there was plenty of material left; they were getting pretty rough looking.
Hi great job ,do you know if those will fit on an '97 2wd F150 ? I want to put six lug ,6x135 wheels on it ,and since i can probably use new rotors anyway ,thanks !
Hi Marcus good job
I really like how in depth this video is you did an awesome job. However letting your caliper just hang like that is a giant no-no
He has it hanging from a strap
I hooked it on a tarp strap so that there was no stress on the brake lines. Thanks for your concern though, :-)
Can someone plz tell me why u can’t reuse the spindle nut cause I’m in the uk and can’t get hold of one but I have the rotor ready to fit. Can I just reuse that bolt ??
I mean you probably could and would probably be fine; but the manufacturer recommends not reusing it. My guess is that it's probably because it's nylock and they're afraid the plastic material in the nut may not hold properly after being put on and taken back off. If you really can't get hold of one I would just reuse it, it's better than driving around with a bad wheel bearing.
Does the nut come with new wheel bearing ? And is it 35 mm or 36mm? I heard both ways
did you have to press a new bearing in the “rotor assembly” or did it come with a new bearing already installed?
It came pre-assembled exactly as you see it in the video. All I had to do was remove the axle nut, slide the old one off, slide the new one on and put the axle nut back on.
The rotors are not that expensive and come with the bearings installed.
I did my 2004 F150 XLT extended cab 5.4L Triton V8 2WD front rotors and brakes and it cost me around $400 including all the tools.
300ft/lb torque wrench, piston compressor, brake pad kit, 36mm. Socket and adapters, new axle nuts.
Took me about 6 hours total with breaks for lunch and beer as I am 72. Previous owner brake job forgot the anti-drag springs and the left front pads disintegrated and locked the rotor.
cant just get a mechanic shop to take out and press in new bearings?
And what if only changing rotor, its the whole assembly either way?
Gotta replace mine this week, waiting on parts. I noticed that the reluctor ring is loose, will that cause any problems for the next couple days of driving? Great video, best one out there!
It might hit and damage your ABS sensor, so if you have another vehicle I'd leave it alone as much as you can to try and avoid having to also pay for an ABS sensor.
Last time bothering you, will a 36mm socket work, or will I round the nut?
@@jasonwilliams4390 I'm not sure. It's not actually my truck so I can't go check for you because it's not here, all I know to tell you is just use your best judgement on how much slop there is between the nut and the socket and how likely you think it is to slip.
I used this video to replace both of my two front bearings on my 2005 f150. I'm already getting noise while driving over 45 miles per hour. I know it's not the rotors because I purchased dynamic friction heavy duty towing pads and rotors. Could it be that the spindle but wasn't properly torqued? Ordered myself new calipers, torque wrench and new cotter pins. While installing the new calipers I'm going to retorque the spindle nuts, just to make sure everything is good. This is the best video on TH-cam for this process. Do you think that retorquing is a good idea, I didn't have a torque wrench that would reach 295 ft lbs when I installed previously?
The truck in this video has been running these bearings for a couple years now without issue and you saw what I did. If you think it's the bearings, it's possible that you over tightened them and egg shaped the race on the bearing and caused wear. I wouldn't think that re-torquing the existing nut would hurt anything, though if the bearings have been damaged by over or under tightening, then they'll have to be replaced because they'll only get worse.
You could also take everything off down to the rotor and spin them and see if you can reproduce the sound you think you're hearing.
Best of luck to you, :-)
Popular stores don’t sell that bearing assembly where did you buy it from ?
Advance Auto Parts
This is a good video. Remember the top slide pin has a rubber sleeve that will swell up when you clean it with brake cleaner , The bottom pin doesn't have one . Antizees millwork better between the spindle and the bearings .
I thought about that but I was a little worried about it maybe getting in the bearing and causing wear since, best as I can tell, it's basically aluminum shavings mixed with grease.
I’d be curious how close your “body weight” is to 295 ft. Lbs.
205 pounds standing on the end of a 1-2 foot breaker bar? Not sure. She's still driving it though and hasn't had any issues, so I guess it was tight enough. I'm probably going to invest in a half inch drive torque wrench. I've got a 3/8" one, but it doesn't go nearly high enough for this.
Apparently I bought the 35 mm but was a tab bit too small, so let's see if we have any luck with the 36 mm
So it’s a 36 socket I’ll need? Please help. Thanks.
@@siskleebert7430 Multiple sites say to use a 36 mm, but we tried that and got the job done
@@jordyquezada1685 thanks. 36mm worked 👍👍
Awesome,but i would've change the pads too
Thank you man I’m back on road save me some money you my kinfolk
I ordered hub assembly and found out the rotor and hub is one
I broke a 1/2 breaker bar getting mine off lol. I had to buy a 3/4 breaker bar
Tried changing mine yesterday and broke my 3/4 ratchet bar. Could not believe it, snapped it right off.
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Why not use the same .nut .on thr hub
You can and it'll probably be fine, but it's a lock nut with nylon on the far side of the threads designed to add friction to help prevent the nut from backing off, and since the new hub/bearing came with a new nut, I figured might as well use it.
Is this easy or expensive enough that someone might take a good one from a truck to replace a bad one on another truck, and put the bad one on the truck that the good one was taken from? I let a friend of a mutual friend borrow my truck for a week or so which had no problems. Now all of sudden the right front wheel sounds bad while driving and esp when turning now as if it's rubbing (or maybe needs grease?), AND driver side of engine sounds like a lifter or pushrod is tapping. On top of which my 2 rear suicide doors are stuck closed on the bottom, dents and scratches in back, front of bed wall is bent pushed in under rear window, and tailgate top liner was ripped off and nasty dent on top corner above tail light. Plz Spare me any lecture, I've def learned my lesson about being a nice guy. And if course I can't prove any of it.
And turns out the guy seems to be a pretty sketchy dude and doesn't return calls. Def not ever doing this again. Some people can be total scum.
The second side is always easier.
Abs went out found out it was a split tone ring just spinning freely on there you can't buy just the tone ring. So I start looking for hubs to even get a tone ring and it took forever to find. Because of the hub rotor combo bullshit wtf ford!
Would this be the same for an 06 F250 2wd?
If not the same it should be very similar. This job may vary a little from vehicle to vehicle, but I can't imagine there would be that much variance between two 2WD Ford trucks built within a few years of each other.