I cannot tell you how glad I am that I found this video. I would've been so disappointed in all the stuff I didn't know I need to do before installing this. keep up the good work man,its a blessing to us.
Haha I felt the same way when I was doing all the research, started to debate if it was even worth it 😅 glad I could help. Let me know if you run into any issues 🤘🤘
Those are 50lb injectors. You will need a tune for them and in that case you might as well do a flex fuel conversion so you can run E85 and make more power.
Thanks for putting the time into this! I'm assembling a custom built 2000 6.0, hoping to run the tbss intake on it and fit it under the hood of a third gen f body. Some of this obviously won't apply to a non-oem swap, but a lot of great info here like knowing what works with the truck parts and what doesn't. Thanks again
For sure, thats definitely the easiest way. Trying to make the newer generation map sensor work is a tuning headache. Plus there are 3 different ways the new map sensors mount. So gotta get a little creative with it.
@@TheKingCoopa I hear some fit right in, others say they pop the oring off the tbss sensor and put it on the old sensor. Some say a rubber grommet. Seems like it depends on what year truck you have AND what year manifold you got
For sure! When I did my swap, I had a question I couldn't find the answer for. I spent like an hour in the garage skipping through videos to find the answer. Learned my lesson, and I figured it would help alot of other people out. Glad I could help out, and thanks for the support!!
Haha I actually have a black bullet antenna on my white truck. But for the black truck I tried to do everything more subtle and clean. And thanks, I appreciate it 🙏
That was quick and to the point on 3 different ways to get this job done. Plus a cost analysis on new and used parts. I'm like in awe of how easy you made this video look with so much information. Thanks for the video,your time and expertise. I am a new subscriber!!!!! What else do you do ? Keep em coming.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Haha I appreciate it! Definitely had alot of time invested into the research, and editing the video. My new video will be a brief overview of assembling my new 6.0L. Thanks for the support!
You say the TBSS and NBSS intakes are identical in the description. You're correct in terms of power output, however, they are two different port styles so your viewers need to make sure they're getting the port shape they need. Good video!
Hey, good point! I thought I covered that in the video, but I probably forgot to put it in there. Already updated the description, thank you for the support!!
@@239seth Dope! It's what I run in my 39 deluxe coupe. 300 with it kited out is a good deal in my opinion. I think I paid 250 shipped but that was 4 or 5 years ago.
Nice, that's a steal!! My 243s I had to buy off a local guy for $250. I took mine and got them milled .015in to increase the compression a little. I think it ran me like $50. Every little bit of power helps.
Just bought a 2500 truck with a 6.0 to go in my 04 1500.... Gonna make a tow monster with it, so this video is my first saved video for the project. 6.0 TBSS intake 706 heads Truck Norris cam And exhaust. Undecided on what to do exhaust wise after full length Headers. It should definitely pull much better than the worn out 390k mile 4.8 that's in it now.
I had a 03 Sierra with the 262 and wrecked it via flip in 2012, 2016 i got a 07 classic bowtie. Oh you just use the 99-03 throttlebody for those cable trucks. Fyi the 99-07 stock intake handle boost well
Did a wonderful job on the topic at hand made me subscribe in under a minute to make sure I have this information on specific ls parts and using everything necessary for you to know what additional materials are required for each of the different types very detailed and can understand what he is saying clearly seen pics i will have many people that will join when they watch the masterclass on how to get our own ls swaps up and running lots of people who have shops trying to do the same quality and they don't want to listen to others like you
Thank you so much for the support, I appreciate it! You dont grow by keeping everything a secret, so I'm just trying to help spread some knowledge. Thank you!
I want to do my 03 Silverado I have a 09 nnbs intake complete with injectors and fuel rails and tb 87 mm plus coils so I think I only need the corvette filter ,xlink ,injector pig tails , and new intake gaskets and O ring
Sounds like you got it all down! Make sure with the xlink, you get the right one for a gold blade or silver blade throttle body. And you only need the corvette regulator if you have a return style fuel system (two fuel lines, instead of one) I'm sure you will do just fine with the swap, good luck, and thanks for the support!
Doing something similar… truck Norris cam, supporting valve train, TBSS intake manifold with 87mm gen4 TB, K&N intake, and Gen 2 ford lightning green top injectors. My shits going on an AWD Qudrasteer Denali though. The fun factor is way down compared to his rig.
Oh nice, thats awesome. Definitely sounds like a solid build. I'm glad you are going with the supporting valvetrain, I feel like alot of people skip that part on cam swaps. Is your truck an extended cab or crew cab? Not sure if you have seen my newer videos, but I swapped to a quadrasteer bed, to run some 14 wide drag wheels (also AWD). And I swapped to a built 6.0/4l80e, makes 600whp on nitrous. Pretty fun little truck.
@@TheKingCoopa Extended cab. Yep I did springs push rods and trunions. Should have just done heads to bump compression up. I still think I’m like $1000 away from being finished. The injectors I want to use won’t work because data is too scarce so im going to maybe use the 30lbers I scavenged off the TBSS intake or just buy some flex fuel injectors and leave room for growth.
Guessing my mani came from a gen4 5.3 (nnbs) cuz had shorter injecrors and took spare Delphi 25317628's and they fit perfectly. Injectors came with the gen4 p# 12613411 and look like short, fat Delphi's. Which online says 2010-17 flex fuel type. Rated at 37.3 # at the standard 58 psi fuel # system. Also.. Some of the later year Caddy Northstar Tab's are 87/90mm gold blades and fit also. Super cheap when found at local LKQ. And also grabbed the evap line for perfect fit to metal line behind engine on driver side firewall.
Haha thank you! I have quite a bit of other chevy customizing videos. This one was probably my most indepth though, the SS bumper conversion was pretty good too. Only bad side is these videos tend to be pretty boring 😅 thanks for the support 🤘
@@MOTHERCLUCKER2014 yes you can. Most people upgrade when they are making more power. If your not cammed or any forced induction, you will be good on the stock injector size. Its been a while, but I'm pretty sure the gen III truck injectors are the same height as the TBSS/NNBS injectors.
Great video! I have been going for the looks and used that aluminum manifold and rails. Now, I am taking a step back and looking at the TBSS manifold and 90/92mm TB for my 03 Avalanche Z66 5.3l 1500. I am talking with BBK for there TB since I can take the mechanical part of the TB out and install it on there's.
awesome video! So far my swap is looking to be about 750$ without CAI and $1000 with the same S&B CAI if i went fast LSXRT or holley hi ram the set up would start at $1400 no fuel injectors or CAI(over $2k) so still half the price of a forced induction future proofed setup
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Sounds like you are doing pretty well with the swap! the LSXRT and Hi ram also need high rpms. I would only run those if you are spinning to 7K-8K RPMS. or you will probably lose power.
Hey, my vette had it on the exhaust also, I swapped to long tube headers (which deletes that port) you can also get a block off plate from ICT billet for the intake. Just make sure its accounted for/adjusted in the tune. Thanks for the support!!
For what a TBSS intake cost you can get the same results literally by having your stock truck intake manifold ported along with the throttle body and still come out cheaper than buying the TBSS intake.
If your balling on a budget, then yes. But actually comparing apples to apples, I don't think so. It would definitely help, and be cheaper, but a ported stock TB, I don't think will make the same CFM as a 90mm TB. Most guys say they gain 10-15hp on the intake swap, I don't think you can make all that HP up on a ported stock intake. I could be wrong. But I'd definitely be interested in looking at the CFM charts and dyne charts of the two comparisons.
@@TheKingCoopa I have seen the dyno numbers of ported stock truck intake/throttle body combos and yes it does make power and torque and it is substantial enough. A larger throttle body such as from say a 78mm to a 92mm does not mean you will make power. Most of the time the larger throttle body will actually hurt your power rather than help. But porting the stock truck intake and throttle body is a great way to make anywhere from 12-30HP on the dyno as these are the ranges of numbers I have seen according to what mods each truck has. I'm not pulling this out of my ass, I have seen it. Go on Instagram and look up @454chuy and you can see some of the dyno numbers on there. He is great at porting and the only person who does my port work.
Very informative video. I installed a TBSS intake on an LM7, 99 GMC Sierra. Had it tuned. All good. Runs great. However, I have a problem with the idle. I did install a fuel regulator keep it at 59 pounds. It will randomly idle down to about 400-300 rpm and sometimes stop altogether. When it is running well, it will idle at 600 rpm with the a/c on or off. Then randomly for no obvious reason it will idle down. Can you give my any idea in which direction I should go or what I should look for? Your assistance is appreciated. Thank in advance.
Hey sorry for the late reply. TH-cam flagged your comment for some reason. So I had a similar situation happen with the truck. Where it kept trying to die at stop signs. I ended up switching to a speed density tune, and that solved my problems.
For sure, glad I could help out some. The exhaust is 1 3/4" speed engineering long tube headers, with a catless Y pipe, single gibson muffler with gubson tips out the passanger side. Thanks for the support!
@Ivan J California haha nice, 200k miles would be awesome. For the swap, it all depends what your wanting. If its just a daily, the cost to hp ratio might not be worth the little extra gain. If your going for max HP and or plan to go boosted, then id definitely recommend upgrading the throttle body. Guess its all up to you, and what you want. But im not sure on the HP gains with just the new throttle body.
@@TheKingCoopa yeah lol. I'm doing a cam, lifters, springs, etc. I just keep adding on items though, so it starts adding up. I'm working on an 03 6L LQ4.
@@dylanfinch6186 haha it definitely adds up! Cant go wrong with a LQ4. Definitely a solid motor. I ended up ditching the 4.8L, and going with an LQ9 6.0L. Makes 580whp on nitrous, and AWD.
@@TheKingCoopa nice. My donor is a denali and I'm actually going heavier and 4wd. I want to be able to tow and I'm tired of the poor mileage of the AWD.
Hey, I had my local tuner clean them for me. They usually run about 5$ an injector. Id check locally, before you send them off somewhere to get cleaned.
Hey, sorry for the late reply! Honestly I'm not sure. Everytime I've seen anyone do the swap or all the research I did, everyone always swapped out the throttle body. Its definitely worth a try though, to try and save the extra money. Sorry I'm not much help with you on this one. Good luck though, let me know how it goes 🤘
Hey, sorry for the late reply. I think the only difference will be the TB. I believe with the 98, you should have a drive by cable throttle body. So you won't need the XLink adapter. But you will need a throttle cable bracket, that bolts onto the top of the intake to hold your cables in place. I think its like $20. And you would need a 3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter (stock throttle body) or buy a 90mm DBC throttle body. Everything else should be the same
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the support! I have seen some guys shave the intakes, and make them super smooth. I think they use plastic weld to fill the holes and sand it smooth. For their sensors I believer they drill a hole in the back (so you don't see it) and they either use a tap to create the threads, or they use a rivnut to pop in there with metal threads. That should create a good seal for the IAT
Since you had to notch some of your fan off did you ever consider going with Electronic fan so you can free up that area gutting the shroud and fan setup.. just a curious thought that will feel a huge difference and benefit of efan setup.
Hey, yes I have! I will be doing a video of the swap as well. I already have the fans, and factory harness. Still have to pickup the larger radiator though. My next video will be of the coilover swap, then I'll be changing to 4.10 gearing. And at that point I'll be pulling the 4.8 to swap out to my LQ9 6.0, 2step, and a 200shot of nitrous. I'll be installing the E fans at the same time. Supposedly by eliminating the extra rotating weight, some people see a gain of 5-10hp from the swap. Thanks for the support!
Trying to get the most potential out of my lm7 as possible, got the intake, fuel rails and injectors for $50. Got the ebay 92mm throttle body a from friend free of charge that has a hole for the pcv. Just need the injector adapters, hoses for the evap. since I’m using throttle cable I won’t have to worry about the X-link or anything like that right? The intake came with the evap still on it. Bought new thick metal felpro gaskets for intake and normal one for throttle body. Thinking about having the Injectors cleaned now. All in i’m at around $90 with the intake and the injector adapters, if I have the injectors cleaned it’s prob another $60 so $150 total for my swaps
Yea, if you're running a cable driven throttle body, you won't need the Xlink adapter. Sounds like you got it all figured out and ready to go! I'd recomend getting the Injectors cleaned. I found out mine were used for e85 and were all gunked up. Most local guys charge between 5-10$ per injector for cleaning. Budget wise, you're definitely killing it. Good luck with the swap, and keep it up 🤘
@@TheKingCoopa thank you sir I appreciate your help and your truck looks and sounds amazing too love the single cabs, am definitely going to look at getting the injectors cleaned I didnt know the price but that’s not bad at all especially for reassurance purposes. I’ll be doing it this weekend and I’ll make a video on before and afters with sound and how it looks compared to the gen 3 3-bolt.
Hey, thanks I appreciate it! S&B Cold Air Intake. All products are linked in the description of the video. www.sbfilters.com/cold-air-intakes/1999-2008-silverado-sierra-intake-75-5036?variant_id=75
Great info man! I've been searching for the right intake for my 3rd gen camaro and wanted to use the TBSS. This is by far the best information I have found on this intake and I've been searching for over 6 months. I'm glad that I stumbled upon this. Keep up the great work and I look forward to checking out the rest of your content! 👍🏾
Ayyeee, thats awesome! Glad I could help you out some. Sounds like the Camaro will be pretty sick! The only thing I would worry about is your hood clearance. The TBSS intakes are pretty tall, and might not clear. Thanks for the support!
Thanks for sharing this information, do you think I can install an intek like the one you put in the video to a 2004 silverado 4.8L, I would really appreciate it if you could give me information
Hey, thanks for the input. Its been mention a few time lol. I messed up in the video, and didn't catch it untill it was posted. I also added it in the description correcting my mistake. Thanks for the support 🤘
Haha so the truck was a one owner, old man bought it new in 2004. At some point in time, the hot/cold blend door went out. So instead of pulling the dash apart and fixing it properly, he installed the ball valve. So if he wanted it hot, he left the valve open. And when he wanted it cold, he would close the ball valve, stopping the coolant flow to the heater core. I replaced all the blend doors, just havnt taken the valve out yet 😅😅
Great tutorial guide! I have a LQ9 swap in jeep wrangler with the stock cable operated TB and intake, my question is in your video you talked about having to use the x-link when swapping TBs, but that only refers to the drive-by-wire throttle bodies right? If not, what else would I need for a 92 mm TB swap along with the TBSS intake swap as far as getting my cable driven TB to operate correctly with the intake swap?
Hey, sorry for the super late reply. I thought I replied to this a while ago, but I guess not. Since you are cable driven, you do NOT need the x link. You can either re-use your current throttle body, with a 3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter. Or you can upgrade to a 90mm cable driven throttle body. Make sure you get new gaskets. Besides that I think the only really big difference is that your supposed to have a bracket that mounts ontop of the intake to secure the throttle cables, right behind the throttle body. I know there is an aftermarket company that makes them, can't remember their name, but im sure you could get by without it.
Ayyeee, thank you I appreciate it! The exhaust is 1 3/4" speed engineering long tube headers, catless Y pipe, single gibson muffler with gibson tips out the passanger side.
Definitely, all the parts are linked in the description of the video. Or i would try Facebook marketplace, or the local pick a part/junkyard. Also the TBSS and NNBS intakes are the same thing
When you installed your TBSS intake manifold, throttle body and X-link, did you have to get a tune after that, Ive seen some people that say that their truck will shut off or the throttle body doesn't work, but you mentioned you had a GM/AC Delco Throttle Body, ive seen a lot of knock off throttle bodies out there just didn't know if you had to get a tune immediately, I just purchased a TBSS intake with the OEM TBSS fuel injectors and stock TBSS throttle body, so interested in what you did. keep up the good work truck looks Nice!!
Hey, sorry for the late reply. If you do want to run the newer 90mm TB then you will need the X link adapter. Xlink stated it won't work with any of the knock off, ebay special TBs. So technically any fuel or air flow changes you would need a tune to really maximize the add-ons, and to run properly. But if you do just the intake, with your stock TB, you will be fine. If you do the X link and 90mm Tb, you could probably drive it to the tuner. But if you swap out to the larger Injectors, then you will need a tune ASAP. The larger 36lb injectors caused my truck to run extremely rich, and would foul out a set of plugs in 5min of idle time. So I gave my tuner an extra $50 to come to me, so I didn't have to tow it to him. Hope that helps. Good luck on the swap 🤘
Hey, sorry for the late reply. I appreciate the compliments. The truck has changed quite a bit since this video. Prepping the new built 6.0 LQ9 to get swapped in, along with 2step and a 200shot of NOS. Caged the inside. Also did a quadrasteer bed swap, so now I can run 14 wides in the back! Stay tuned for more updates, and thank you for the sub!!!
Great great video! Buying all parts needed for my 6.0 swap. But have a question..maybe you can or can’t help me. I have 2007 Silverado v6, single fuel line. Would I need to add some type of fuel regulator, or swap fuel pumps, or any other modifications to add the tbss intake with the 6.0 swap?
Hey, sounds like you have alot of work ahead of you 👌 seeing that you have a single fuel line, you have a return-less style fuel system. They are internally regulated in the tank/pump. So you do not need a regulator. One thing you should look up, is to make sure your stock fuel pump has enough pressure/GPH, since you are adding two more cylinders. I'm sure a stock v6 fuel pump would be fine on a stock V8. But if your cammed and modified, that stock v6 pump might not beable to keep up. But the pump stats online would beable to give you that info. Hope that helps, good luck with the swap, and thanks for the support!
@@TheKingCoopa awesome! I will definitely look into fuel pump stats! I went into Autozone and napa and input my trucks year and model changes v6 to v8 to find if part numbers were the same and they were, for the most part. Pumps changes if it were a crew cab or double cab really. But I will still double check pumps rating. Thank you so much! And yeah, it’s a stage 3 cam, flat top position with headers. Something to make it sound nice, lol not looking for racing really.
@@xXChevyRiderXx gotcha. Yea, if the part numbers are the same, you should be fine then. Also whenever you get it done, just to double check, you could run a fuel pressure guage off the Shradder valve on the fuel rail. Give it some revs and make sure the pressure doesn't have any crazy dips. But I'm sure you will be just fine 👌
Any airflow or fuel changes, a tune is needed/recommend. You will gain some power, but it won't be maximized without a tune. This shouldn't effect smog, as long as you still hook up your evap system.
Probably not the place to come for questions, but I'm having issues. Same cam you have, I'm running milled 706 heads. Had a 07 style intake ported to match heads and running 42lb injectors. My tuner set me a base tune to get it running. It will not idle, will not go over 3k sounds like it has a 2step. Would do the same before the base tune was added.
Hey, this could be so many things. You gonna have to take some time to track it down. Did you make sure the timing gear and crank gear were aligned properly? With milled heads did you check for proper pushrod length? You will need shorter pushrods. Did you tourqe the pushrods properly? Double check all your vacuum lines Check to make sure the intake manifold is installed properly with new gaskets, to make sure its not sucking in air around the gaskets. If you have the newer style DBW throttle body, did you use the X link? If you did use the xlink, are you running a GM/Acdelco throttle body? The xlink won't work if its an ebay special TB. Make sure the butterfly is operating. Use a heat gun on the exhaust manifold to see if one side isn't firing, check the coil pack connector. Check your shreader valve, on the fuel rail for proper fuel pressure. If you ran the truck on larger injectors before the tune, your spark plugs are probably fowled out. They will need cleaned or replaced. Also run some MAF spray cleaner through your MAF sensor. Make sure you reuse the old gen III MAP sensor. Also, you might have to tell your tuner to tune the truck with a speed density tune. Good luck!
@@TheKingCoopa Thanks for the reply, injectors were junk, went back with stock injectors, and it is running much better. Still having an issue intake is not leaking anywhere, but on the tune we have air flow maxed out and it will still occasionally die if you get in it hard and let out. Thinking intake is just junk. I'm running the stock 05 throttle body for the truck.
Hey, I'm still pretty active. I haven't posted in a few months, been super busy with my single cab to get any videos out. Doing a full build on it, and bit off more than I could chew 😅 Thats awesome though, hopefully the swap goes well 🤘 thanks for the sub and the support!!
I went with 1 3/4. Tuner told me to go with that size. 5.3 l33 NA, ball park to be a 450-470 hp motor. He said I could go with the 1 7/8 but 1 3/4 would be better.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. I had a 4.8L at the time, and I went with 1 3/4'. the 4.8L doesn't flow enough for the 1 7/8" and id probably lose a little power with those. since then ive swapped the a 6.0L and still rocking the 1 3/4"
I know this is an intake swap video, I’m curious to know how ur speed engineering headers have treated you! Did they have any fitment issues? Are they close to the steering column at all? Clean build for sure! Your vids are always straight forward and professional keep the content coming!
Thank you! They have been pretty great so far. I have had three issues with them, not really a huge deal though. 1. Was the Y pipe was a little hard to wiggle up past the trans crossmember. Took me like 10min to figure it out haha. 2. Is the Y pipe comes with a bung welded into it, so I can run my AFR gauge. Which is awesome, but those bungs for the sensors need to be welded in at a higher angle. They weld the bung in completely level, which allows the exhaust condensation to sit in the sensor tip, after you shut the engine off. Which will corrode the sensor, and I have already gone through two AFR sensors. They aren't cheap. So when I pull the exhaust out for my 6.0 LQ9 swap coming up soon, I'll weld in a new bung at the proper angle. If you're not running an AFR gauge, no big deal. 3. The clamps they send you are junk. Just throw them away. I went to Napa and got new exhaust clamps. The long 3in wide ones, you wrap around the tube, run the bolts through both sides of the clamp, then tighten the bolts down, and it will pull that clamp SUPER tight! Definitely recommend those. Other than that, I haven't had any issues. The rest of the fitment was great, and doesn't hit anything. It also clears my front 4x4 driveshaft. If your gonna do longitudes, then I would just spend a little extra money and get ARP exhaust bolts. They are stronger, won't snap, and won't corrode into your heads. Also don't re-use your exhaust gaskets. Get a set of (MLS) multi layer steel gaskets. They work really well. Hope that all helps. Stay tuned, I just got a roll cage installed, and the 6.0 is at the machine shop getting prepped for the swap, along with 2step, and a 200 shot of NOS haha. Thanks for all the support!! Good luck!
I’m having a problem with my brake booster I’m guessing keeps backfiring but now is idling good and my brakes are stiff. I think my brake booster fitting does not fit my stock hose
Hey, sorry for the extremely late reply!! A vacuum leak could definitely cause some idling/running issues. I'd definitely check over the hose fitting first, and even try a vacuum pressure test before you go and buy a new brake booster. Also keep in mind it could potentially be two separate issues. I doubt it and you know your truck better than I do, but its always a possibility. Sorry I wasn't much help, I hope you figured it all out by now!
How much more hp/trq can I expect out of this upgrade (on average)? Fyi: 2005 Tahoe with the following work, 6.0L LQ4 Swap GM HotCam: Lift Intake .525 Lift Exhaust .525 Duration Intake 267 Duration Exhaust 276 Lobe Separation 112 Lifter Upgrade/Pushrod Upgrade, Valve Spring & Retainer Upgrade, Upgrated Plugs, and Wires, Intake, Headers, Straight Piped, and a Street Tune.
Honestly have no idea man. Thats a stupid big cam. The lift isn't that big, but the duration is. Most stock bottom end lq4 can only fit a high 230s low 240s duration. Im really surprised you dont have piston to valve issues. Hope you went with a 3000 stall and a built tranny. But id guess atleast 420hp to the wheels.
@@TheKingCoopa - I'm pretty sure he gave the full specs on that cam, not the duration at .050 (like most of the cams we talk about are rated). Based on that, his cam is around a 220⁰ cam at .050 lift. Not too crazy... ;)
Hey, sorry for the late reply. In this video I had the stock TBSS/NBSS 36lb injectors. On my new setup, I went with Fast injectors called White Giants.
Cooper what’s up bro! We went to corporals course together I didn’t know you had all this info to share back then lol I’m trying to build my cat eye rn I’d love the tips bro!
I’m going through a complete brain fart over the evap system and how it’ll fit into my swap since my lm7 is going into a foxbody. Would I just block those off? Sorry if it’s an obvious question, I just wanna make sure I have no vacuum leaks or running issues
Yea, just block it off, and make sure your fuel tank/cell has a breather for the fuel to expand and contrast when it gets hot or cold. And try to make the breather higher than the fill/gas cap. So when you fill up, it doesn't piss out the breather
Hey, from the research I've done, yes you would still need it. The TBSS/NNBS throttle bodies use the newer wires and sends different signals than the older TB's. I think you can swap the pedal TAC module, and wiring from a Camaro to make it work. You can convert to a cable driven throttle body, but that will require more parts, and changing the tune. When it is all said and done I still believe the X link is the easiest and cheapest way around it. Don't quote me on that though. Hope that helps.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. just depends what injectors you run. for the stock tbss injectors you can use adapters for plug and play, or you can hard wire the new connector onto your harness for a cleaner look.
Hey, if the ground wire is long enough, I would attach the ground wire to the back of the driverside head. (Factory ground location). You may need to cut, extend, and soldier some longer wire onto it to reach, depending where you mounted the C5 fuel regulator. Hope that helps!
Hey, yes the stock pump will supported it. I'm not sure how maxed out it is. But on my new 6.0L with a larger cam, and nitrous, I'll probably need an upgraded fuel pump.
I bought a summit racing atk 385 hp lm7 create its currently maxed out stock injectors at 303 hp to the wheels so I'm hoping this will get me around 350ish to the wheels have all supporting mods except Injectors so decided to do the tbss swap had to set my limiter to 5400 so I won't run lean
So I done swap, and I loved it. But for some reason at times during deceleration there’s a whine. It’s happened with the 4.8 & 90mm throttle body. Have you had this problem?
Hey sorry for the late reply! Have you figured it out yet? Do you have an aftermarket CAI? My BBK CAI on the corvette does the same thing, but its a high pitch whistle
I have a stick shift 5 speed I’ve been looking like crazy where to hook it up too but can’t find it do you know any alternative where too hook it up too
Hey, I havnt done alot of research on the evap system. But I have seen alot of race truck setups, and I do know that they get rid of that system. I believe most guys just plug the hole where the evap tube/solenoid comes off the intake manifold, then change it in the tune as well. So it doesn't throw any codes, or act funny. Thats the best I got. Hope that helps 🤘
What are the chances that x-link will fail ... I say it because I did the same installation in my 2005 silverado and since I did it every time I accelerate to full speed it appears (reduces engine power) I buy everything new I do not know what is happening
Sorry for the late reply. You definitely have an issue going on. First thing I would do is throw a code reader on the truck and see what it comes up with. That will hopefully tell you a lot, you can narrow down and fix the issue. If not, next step I would do, is call up the company about the X-link, tell them the situation. If its the X-link, and is a common issue, then they will definitely know what to do. Or maybe they can work out a way to get you a new one. If neither of those two work, I'd look for a local reputable tuner, and have them take a look. A lot of times they can see things on the HP tuner software, that are out of the normal. And can help you narrow down what this issue is. Sorry, thats the best I got. Hope that helps! Good luck on your build.
Thank you! I tried to get this out sooner, just got super busy. Hope it answered any questions you still had (even though your almost finished with the install haha)
Hey, if you're setup is cable driven, STAY cable driven. That is not worth the headache of trying to swap to the electric TB, just for no gains over a cable driven setup.
what fuel pump would u recommend im building a 5.3 11.1 comp Afr heads not a crazy cam 425 -450 hp any one make a drop in pump that would pump enough thanks for your help
Hey, I would assume a single walbro 450 would do the trick. You can plumb it yourself in the existing fuel bucket. Its a little bit of work, but can be done. If you were wanting a complete drop in unit, with a hot wire/harness. Then Chris1313 racing is your guy (link below). He makes some nice stuff. I'm running his kit. Dual walbro 450s, drop in unit, with his billet top hat, and dual relay harness. The truck curently makes 580whp on nitrous since this video. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100069750043445&mibextid=ZbWKwL
When you did your cam swap did you have to put in a new Stall converter ? If you had to put a new one in what size Stall converter did you have to get. I'm trying to figure out if I should do TBSS intake manifold or a aftermarket intake. And I want to do a cam swap. If you can help me out I would really appreciate it. I really like the way your truck sounds.
Hey, first off if your looking for a new intake, look up Richard holdener on YT. He has dozens of intake comparison videos showing you all the charts and HP gains from an engine dyno. Alot of great info. The TBSS intake does surprisingly really well. For the cam swap. A stock 5.3L gen III is about a 191 duration for intake/exhaust. A stock LS1 in a C5 corvette is about 198 to 200 duration. Once you get about a 216 duration, your gonna want a small stall converter. In this video I had a 226/234 112LSA, crane cam. And that was with a 2600 stall. It handled really well and drove like stock. My new setup is a built 6.0L/4l80e/AWD, and nitrous. The new camshaft is a 234/240 112LSA, from cam motion. Cam motion says it is a minimum requirement of a 3600 stall or larger to run that camshaft. So if you just want the choppy sound and don't want to do the converter. Id say like a 215ish duration with a 110LSA. I wouldn't go lower than 110 on the LSA or the drive ability will suffer. But if your doing an intake, sounds like you want the power. So in that case I'd go with like a BTR stage 2 through 4 truck cam. And probably like a 2600 to 3000 stall. But honestly the best advice I can give, is figure out your long term goal of the truck. Like a daily driver, fun toy, or eventually you want to boost it. Figure that out, and buy your parts twords that goal. So your not wasting money and changing out parts you already bought for something bigger, like me. But figure out what you want then make some phone calls. Call BTR and Cam Motion tell them your setup and they will spec out a cam shaft best suited for you. And they will tell you what stall you need.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. No, you can not plug the valve cover intake. The crank case needs fresh clean air. If you don't want to run it to the intake tube, I would run an oil catch can. That will help your engine out and will still allow clean air to the crank case. But at a bare minimum, I would atleast run one of those small autozone filters on the valve cover tube.
How does it work with a 2006 Chevrolet Tahoe vin z flex fuel 5.3 are they the same type of fuel rails and injectors or can I use my injectors from Tahoe. I not sure if someone could answer I would appreciate it thanks.
Hey, so with a little research I found that the 05- 07 classic Flex fuel injectors start at 35.404767lb and ramp up to 38.443005lb on a returnless system also based off a constant fuel pressure of 60 PSI. You would have a returnless fuel system. So you don't need the the C5 corvette filter. Your factory fuel rail won't fit over the tbss intake hump. So you would either have to cut your fuel rails, weld on AN fittings, run the AN line over the top to clear the hump. Then make little drop tabs to mount the fuel rails to the tbss intake. Or, use your flex fuel injectors, the tbss fuel rail, and then you will need injectors risers, since the truck/suv injectors are a little shorter than tbss injectors. Hope that helps
Great video! But i have one question, What exactly did you do to make that air intake tube fit? did you get a new cup link Or did the kit already come with a cup link that fit, and how did you tilt the fan?
Hey, the air intake tube fits the 78mm TB and the new TB is a 90mm. So I got a rubber coupler, 4in to 4.5in I believe. It is linked in the description of the video. The fan stayed in the same spot. Only thing I did was cut about 1in off the tips of each fan blade, to clear the intake tube
This is one of the most detailed, short and simple videos, I have seen on the tbss intake manifold swap, upgrade. Thanks, it is very helpful.
Awesome, thanks! Glad I could help out a little.
I cannot tell you how glad I am that I found this video. I would've been so disappointed in all the stuff I didn't know I need to do before installing this. keep up the good work man,its a blessing to us.
Haha I felt the same way when I was doing all the research, started to debate if it was even worth it 😅 glad I could help. Let me know if you run into any issues 🤘🤘
Just. Little info for anyone who cares. Srock L59 5.3s witch are flexfuel have factory bigger injecters
so i can put them on my 4.8?
Yes you can.
Those are 50lb injectors. You will need a tune for them and in that case you might as well do a flex fuel conversion so you can run E85 and make more power.
@@ROB-kd4nkso if I swap to the tbss intake with the stock 5.3 injectors that are flex fuel, I’m able to run e85? With a tune of course
@@214deleon4you have to change your pump also I believe
Thanks for putting the time into this! I'm assembling a custom built 2000 6.0, hoping to run the tbss intake on it and fit it under the hood of a third gen f body. Some of this obviously won't apply to a non-oem swap, but a lot of great info here like knowing what works with the truck parts and what doesn't. Thanks again
Awesome, glad I could help. Yea that f body hood might be cutting it pretty close. The tbss intake is pretty tall. Good luck with the build 🤘
Easily the best tutorial I've seen on this swap. Excellent explanations and showing what you're talking about.
Awesome, glad I could help out some 🤘 thanks for the support
I have been scouring the web for a tbss swap parts list and came across your video. Thank you! All the information in one place. A great help.
Glad I could help, and thanks for the support! 🤘
I see all kinds of different stuff on making the map sensor off the old manifold work
For sure, thats definitely the easiest way. Trying to make the newer generation map sensor work is a tuning headache. Plus there are 3 different ways the new map sensors mount. So gotta get a little creative with it.
@@TheKingCoopa I hear some fit right in, others say they pop the oring off the tbss sensor and put it on the old sensor. Some say a rubber grommet. Seems like it depends on what year truck you have AND what year manifold you got
@@loweredyote8416 right! Its crazy how many variables there are for just one sensor haha
Genius idea listing all the parts/times at the start. Watched the whole thing but that will be very helpful coming back for info👍
For sure! When I did my swap, I had a question I couldn't find the answer for. I spent like an hour in the garage skipping through videos to find the answer. Learned my lesson, and I figured it would help alot of other people out. Glad I could help out, and thanks for the support!!
I didnt see one of those cool bullet antennas ...gotta have one.love the headlights and side exhaust
Haha I actually have a black bullet antenna on my white truck. But for the black truck I tried to do everything more subtle and clean. And thanks, I appreciate it 🙏
That was quick and to the point on 3 different ways to get this job done.
Plus a cost analysis on new and used parts.
I'm like in awe of how easy you made this video look with so much information.
Thanks for the video,your time and expertise.
I am a new subscriber!!!!! What else do you do ? Keep em coming.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Haha I appreciate it! Definitely had alot of time invested into the research, and editing the video. My new video will be a brief overview of assembling my new 6.0L. Thanks for the support!
You say the TBSS and NBSS intakes are identical in the description. You're correct in terms of power output, however, they are two different port styles so your viewers need to make sure they're getting the port shape they need. Good video!
Hey, good point! I thought I covered that in the video, but I probably forgot to put it in there. Already updated the description, thank you for the support!!
How do you tell the difference I’ve searched and searched but can’t find anything
@@239seth Look at the ports. The TBSS is a cathedral port. I believe the NBSS is a rectangle port.
@@iamblamb501 just got it order paid 368 with fuel rails injectors fuel pressure regulator and sensors, it was $300 flat with $68 in shipping
@@239seth Dope! It's what I run in my 39 deluxe coupe. 300 with it kited out is a good deal in my opinion. I think I paid 250 shipped but that was 4 or 5 years ago.
Just a heads up, not all 99-02 trucks are drive by cable.
I have an 01 1500 that is dbw, I've been told it's not common.
Oh wow, didn't know that. Thanks for the info and the support!
I have a L59 Z Vin 5.3 and from 05-07, those came stock with 36.6lb injectors.
L59 02-04 had 33lb injectors.
Oh nice, good info!
@@TheKingCoopa Definitely! I read that up on summit by the vin numbers on the different blocks, pretty interesting.
Nnbs from my local upull for $80 with rails, injectors, throttle body etc.... 2008 Silverado and got the 243 heads for another $80 too...
Nice, that's a steal!! My 243s I had to buy off a local guy for $250. I took mine and got them milled .015in to increase the compression a little. I think it ran me like $50. Every little bit of power helps.
I have 2003 tahoe 5.3 flex, will set up work for me??
Yup, it for sure will!
Just bought a 2500 truck with a 6.0 to go in my 04 1500.... Gonna make a tow monster with it, so this video is my first saved video for the project.
6.0
TBSS intake
706 heads
Truck Norris cam
And exhaust. Undecided on what to do exhaust wise after full length Headers.
It should definitely pull much better than the worn out 390k mile 4.8 that's in it now.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Sounds like a pretty sweet setup! I'd also recommend getting a tourqe converter while you're at it.
I had a 03 Sierra with the 262 and wrecked it via flip in 2012, 2016 i got a 07 classic bowtie.
Oh you just use the 99-03 throttlebody for those cable trucks.
Fyi the 99-07 stock intake handle boost well
Hey, yea the 99-02 are cable driven, and the 03-07classic are drive by wire. Ive herd alot of good things about the truck and tbss intakes
Did a wonderful job on the topic at hand made me subscribe in under a minute to make sure I have this information on specific ls parts and using everything necessary for you to know what additional materials are required for each of the different types very detailed and can understand what he is saying clearly seen pics i will have many people that will join when they watch the masterclass on how to get our own ls swaps up and running lots of people who have shops trying to do the same quality and they don't want to listen to others like you
Thank you so much for the support, I appreciate it! You dont grow by keeping everything a secret, so I'm just trying to help spread some knowledge. Thank you!
I want to do my 03 Silverado I have a 09 nnbs intake complete with injectors and fuel rails and tb 87 mm plus coils so I think I only need the corvette filter ,xlink ,injector pig tails , and new intake gaskets and O ring
Sounds like you got it all down! Make sure with the xlink, you get the right one for a gold blade or silver blade throttle body. And you only need the corvette regulator if you have a return style fuel system (two fuel lines, instead of one)
I'm sure you will do just fine with the swap, good luck, and thanks for the support!
Doing something similar… truck Norris cam, supporting valve train, TBSS intake manifold with 87mm gen4 TB, K&N intake, and Gen 2 ford lightning green top injectors. My shits going on an AWD Qudrasteer Denali though. The fun factor is way down compared to his rig.
Oh nice, thats awesome. Definitely sounds like a solid build. I'm glad you are going with the supporting valvetrain, I feel like alot of people skip that part on cam swaps. Is your truck an extended cab or crew cab?
Not sure if you have seen my newer videos, but I swapped to a quadrasteer bed, to run some 14 wide drag wheels (also AWD). And I swapped to a built 6.0/4l80e, makes 600whp on nitrous. Pretty fun little truck.
@@TheKingCoopa Extended cab. Yep I did springs push rods and trunions. Should have just done heads to bump compression up. I still think I’m like $1000 away from being finished. The injectors I want to use won’t work because data is too scarce so im going to maybe use the 30lbers I scavenged off the TBSS intake or just buy some flex fuel injectors and leave room for growth.
@@garretmonnet9397 for sure! Those crew cabs are starting to get really hard to find. Room for growth is always good!
Great video man!! Really gave me more confidence to do a TBSS swap
Thats awesome, glad I could help out. Hopefully your swap goes well 🤘 thanks for the support!
Guessing my mani came from a gen4 5.3 (nnbs) cuz had shorter injecrors and took spare Delphi 25317628's and they fit perfectly. Injectors came with the gen4 p# 12613411 and look like short, fat Delphi's. Which online says 2010-17 flex fuel type. Rated at 37.3 # at the standard 58 psi fuel # system. Also.. Some of the later year Caddy Northstar Tab's are 87/90mm gold blades and fit also. Super cheap when found at local LKQ. And also grabbed the evap line for perfect fit to metal line behind engine on driver side firewall.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. hell yea, definitely some good knowledge to pass on! Thanks for the support! 🤘
Please duplicate this format with every chevy truck upgrade you can. sweet vid subscribed
Haha thank you! I have quite a bit of other chevy customizing videos. This one was probably my most indepth though, the SS bumper conversion was pretty good too. Only bad side is these videos tend to be pretty boring 😅 thanks for the support 🤘
Its the Gen 4 LS Truck Intake. Its on isuzu npr with the 5.3/6.0
Oh nice. Yea the gen 4 and tbss are the same thing 🤘
Best video on this I've found yet. Thanks man!
For sure, good luck with the swap!
@TheKingCoopa one more question please. On my '06 5.3 flex fuel, can I reuse my injectors to keep from having to get the adapters?
@@MOTHERCLUCKER2014 yes you can. Most people upgrade when they are making more power. If your not cammed or any forced induction, you will be good on the stock injector size.
Its been a while, but I'm pretty sure the gen III truck injectors are the same height as the TBSS/NNBS injectors.
you can also cut, cap the evap lines, and have that turned off in your tune
Thats a good option too
Great video! I have been going for the looks and used that aluminum manifold and rails. Now, I am taking a step back and looking at the TBSS manifold and 90/92mm TB for my 03 Avalanche Z66 5.3l 1500. I am talking with BBK for there TB since I can take the mechanical part of the TB out and install it on there's.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Sounds like you have a nice setup. Let me know how that BBK TB turns out. Thanks for the support!
awesome video! So far my swap is looking to be about 750$ without CAI and $1000 with the same S&B CAI
if i went fast LSXRT or holley hi ram the set up would start at $1400 no fuel injectors or CAI(over $2k)
so still half the price of a forced induction future proofed setup
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Sounds like you are doing pretty well with the swap! the LSXRT and Hi ram also need high rpms. I would only run those if you are spinning to 7K-8K RPMS. or you will probably lose power.
you are the KING great info what did you do about EGR ON 6.0 its on exhaust my 02 5.3 it was on intake can you tune it out thanks for all the info
Hey, my vette had it on the exhaust also, I swapped to long tube headers (which deletes that port) you can also get a block off plate from ICT billet for the intake. Just make sure its accounted for/adjusted in the tune. Thanks for the support!!
thanks
Thank you for the video it was the best one since I’m running a 6.0 ls swap for a 4.8
Oh nice, thats awesome. I'm actually mid way through swapping in a 6.0,4l80e, and AWD. Thanks for the support!
Thank you so much for making this! This is the type of content I absolutely LOVE finding.
Needa get yourself some electric fans
Awesome, glad I could help out. Its a little long and boring, but it should cover almost everything. 🤘
For what a TBSS intake cost you can get the same results literally by having your stock truck intake manifold ported along with the throttle body and still come out cheaper than buying the TBSS intake.
If your balling on a budget, then yes. But actually comparing apples to apples, I don't think so. It would definitely help, and be cheaper, but a ported stock TB, I don't think will make the same CFM as a 90mm TB. Most guys say they gain 10-15hp on the intake swap, I don't think you can make all that HP up on a ported stock intake. I could be wrong. But I'd definitely be interested in looking at the CFM charts and dyne charts of the two comparisons.
@@TheKingCoopa I have seen the dyno numbers of ported stock truck intake/throttle body combos and yes it does make power and torque and it is substantial enough. A larger throttle body such as from say a 78mm to a 92mm does not mean you will make power. Most of the time the larger throttle body will actually hurt your power rather than help. But porting the stock truck intake and throttle body is a great way to make anywhere from 12-30HP on the dyno as these are the ranges of numbers I have seen according to what mods each truck has. I'm not pulling this out of my ass, I have seen it. Go on Instagram and look up @454chuy and you can see some of the dyno numbers on there. He is great at porting and the only person who does my port work.
Awesome and very detailed video! I am about to go through this process myself, so thanks for the heads up on what all has to be done!
For sure. Glad I could help out some. Good luck on the swap 🤘
Very informative video. I installed a TBSS intake on an LM7, 99 GMC Sierra. Had it tuned. All good. Runs great. However, I have a problem with the idle. I did install a fuel regulator keep it at 59 pounds. It will randomly idle down to about 400-300 rpm and sometimes stop altogether. When it is running well, it will idle at 600 rpm with the a/c on or off. Then randomly for no obvious reason it will idle down. Can you give my any idea in which direction I should go or what I should look for? Your assistance is appreciated. Thank in advance.
Hey sorry for the late reply. TH-cam flagged your comment for some reason. So I had a similar situation happen with the truck. Where it kept trying to die at stop signs. I ended up switching to a speed density tune, and that solved my problems.
My goodness what a good looking truck. geeeeese!
Thank you, I appreciate it! I've changed a decent amount on it, since this video.
That was amazing on how you explain all the process.
Hopefully I helped you out some. Thanks for the support!!
GREAT VIDIEO!!! what exhaust?? doing the manifold swap on my 01! thanks for everything
For sure, glad I could help out some. The exhaust is 1 3/4" speed engineering long tube headers, with a catless Y pipe, single gibson muffler with gubson tips out the passanger side. Thanks for the support!
Great video! Have a TBSS intake and set of 243's waiting to go on mine.. I see your from Ft. Wayne, I'm about 2 hours south of there
Thank you, I went with some milled 243's also 👌 thats sweet, not to far away!
Im doing the same thing with my Lq9. I’m picking it up from the machine shop tomorrow!
@@yourejustmad9938 nice, let me know how it goes!
@Ivan J California haha nice, 200k miles would be awesome. For the swap, it all depends what your wanting. If its just a daily, the cost to hp ratio might not be worth the little extra gain. If your going for max HP and or plan to go boosted, then id definitely recommend upgrading the throttle body. Guess its all up to you, and what you want. But im not sure on the HP gains with just the new throttle body.
Video is awesome very detailed I wish the harness was way cheaper though
Yea, that is definitely one of the downsides to going with the newer LS3 throttle body. Thanks for the support!
Thanks for the video. It's worth spending a few extra bucks and doing it right.
Glad I could help out! I think so too. Buy once, cry once haha.
@@TheKingCoopa yeah lol. I'm doing a cam, lifters, springs, etc. I just keep adding on items though, so it starts adding up. I'm working on an 03 6L LQ4.
@@dylanfinch6186 haha it definitely adds up! Cant go wrong with a LQ4. Definitely a solid motor. I ended up ditching the 4.8L, and going with an LQ9 6.0L. Makes 580whp on nitrous, and AWD.
@@TheKingCoopa nice. My donor is a denali and I'm actually going heavier and 4wd. I want to be able to tow and I'm tired of the poor mileage of the AWD.
@@dylanfinch6186 oh sweet, that will be cool
Awesome video... by chnace what size hose is it for the fresh air from passenger side to air intake?... ii need to tap a nipple on my air intake...
Hey, sorry for the late reply! I believe I used 3/8 hose.
Thanks for the support!
Great video, thank you! In the cost summary you show $60 for injector cleaning.....have a link to who did that service for you?
Hey, I had my local tuner clean them for me. They usually run about 5$ an injector. Id check locally, before you send them off somewhere to get cleaned.
Can I just use the stock TBSS throttle body and just make sure the X-link adapter is for the correct blade color
Hey, sorry for the late reply! Honestly I'm not sure. Everytime I've seen anyone do the swap or all the research I did, everyone always swapped out the throttle body. Its definitely worth a try though, to try and save the extra money. Sorry I'm not much help with you on this one. Good luck though, let me know how it goes 🤘
You should relocate those coil packs next to create some more room on top of the motor and looks better
Thats definitely true, where would I put them though?
They need to make one for the V-6 4.3
Vortex Sonoma S-10 . Why not ? We need power as well.
Haha for sure!! My nephew has a 4.3L in his single cab, he is planning to build. Ive seen a few make some good power with a turbo on it
Do you have anything on the tbss into a 98 4x4 chevy truck ,the does and don't 5.3 swap.
Your awesome !!!
Hey, sorry for the late reply. I think the only difference will be the TB. I believe with the 98, you should have a drive by cable throttle body. So you won't need the XLink adapter. But you will need a throttle cable bracket, that bolts onto the top of the intake to hold your cables in place. I think its like $20. And you would need a 3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter (stock throttle body) or buy a 90mm DBC throttle body. Everything else should be the same
Cool vid , better than factory R&R intake content . I'd like to try this but I am Fitech and need a IAT in the intake, guess I could figure it out
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the support! I have seen some guys shave the intakes, and make them super smooth. I think they use plastic weld to fill the holes and sand it smooth. For their sensors I believer they drill a hole in the back (so you don't see it) and they either use a tap to create the threads, or they use a rivnut to pop in there with metal threads. That should create a good seal for the IAT
Since you had to notch some of your fan off did you ever consider going with Electronic fan so you can free up that area gutting the shroud and fan setup.. just a curious thought that will feel a huge difference and benefit of efan setup.
Hey, yes I have! I will be doing a video of the swap as well. I already have the fans, and factory harness. Still have to pickup the larger radiator though. My next video will be of the coilover swap, then I'll be changing to 4.10 gearing. And at that point I'll be pulling the 4.8 to swap out to my LQ9 6.0, 2step, and a 200shot of nitrous. I'll be installing the E fans at the same time. Supposedly by eliminating the extra rotating weight, some people see a gain of 5-10hp from the swap. Thanks for the support!
Trying to get the most potential out of my lm7 as possible, got the intake, fuel rails and injectors for $50. Got the ebay 92mm throttle body a from friend free of charge that has a hole for the pcv. Just need the injector adapters, hoses for the evap. since I’m using throttle cable I won’t have to worry about the X-link or anything like that right? The intake came with the evap still on it. Bought new thick metal felpro gaskets for intake and normal one for throttle body. Thinking about having the Injectors cleaned now. All in i’m at around $90 with the intake and the injector adapters, if I have the injectors cleaned it’s prob another $60 so $150 total for my swaps
Also has a CAI with rebuilt heads, bigger valve springs and a fat howard rattler camshaft with gapped rings for future boost.
Need the c5 fuel filter which is about another $50 so looking at $200 total
Yea, if you're running a cable driven throttle body, you won't need the Xlink adapter. Sounds like you got it all figured out and ready to go! I'd recomend getting the Injectors cleaned. I found out mine were used for e85 and were all gunked up. Most local guys charge between 5-10$ per injector for cleaning. Budget wise, you're definitely killing it. Good luck with the swap, and keep it up 🤘
@@TheKingCoopa thank you sir I appreciate your help and your truck looks and sounds amazing too love the single cabs, am definitely going to look at getting the injectors cleaned I didnt know the price but that’s not bad at all especially for reassurance purposes. I’ll be doing it this weekend and I’ll make a video on before and afters with sound and how it looks compared to the gen 3 3-bolt.
@@dylonkammerzell8880 for sure, and thank you for the support!!
The best video with explanation for expectation of swap seen to date.
Question:
What cold air part number are you running?
Hey, thanks I appreciate it!
S&B Cold Air Intake. All products are linked in the description of the video.
www.sbfilters.com/cold-air-intakes/1999-2008-silverado-sierra-intake-75-5036?variant_id=75
Great info man! I've been searching for the right intake for my 3rd gen camaro and wanted to use the TBSS. This is by far the best information I have found on this intake and I've been searching for over 6 months. I'm glad that I stumbled upon this. Keep up the great work and I look forward to checking out the rest of your content! 👍🏾
Ayyeee, thats awesome! Glad I could help you out some. Sounds like the Camaro will be pretty sick! The only thing I would worry about is your hood clearance. The TBSS intakes are pretty tall, and might not clear. Thanks for the support!
@@TheKingCoopa I have a 4" cowl hood. There's plenty of room to spare!
@@jae7123 im running my stock hood on my 92 and it clears
Great vid.! Very well explained.
Do you have to tune it after installing the intake?
Hey, any air flow or fuel changes then a tune is required. If you just swapped the intake, you could probably still drive it to the tuner.
Thanks for sharing this information, do you think I can install an intek like the one you put in the video to a 2004 silverado 4.8L, I would really appreciate it if you could give me information
Hey, sorry for the super late reply. Yes, you can put it on a 2004 4.8L. Thats the exact setup I have in this video 🤘
Im not sure if its been commented or not but this wont really apply to the 2007+/NNBS trucks as they have this intake already.
Hey, thanks for the input. Its been mention a few time lol. I messed up in the video, and didn't catch it untill it was posted. I also added it in the description correcting my mistake. Thanks for the support 🤘
@@TheKingCoopa Sick Vid man. Thanks for posting.
@@ritchiepartsmechanical9420 i appreciate it 🙏.
Ok really informative but my ocd can’t shy away from the 3/4 inch brass ball valve on your heater core hose why is it there
Haha so the truck was a one owner, old man bought it new in 2004. At some point in time, the hot/cold blend door went out. So instead of pulling the dash apart and fixing it properly, he installed the ball valve. So if he wanted it hot, he left the valve open. And when he wanted it cold, he would close the ball valve, stopping the coolant flow to the heater core. I replaced all the blend doors, just havnt taken the valve out yet 😅😅
Lol gotcha makes sense
Haha yea. One day ill fix it
Great tutorial guide! I have a LQ9 swap in jeep wrangler with the stock cable operated TB and intake, my question is in your video you talked about having to use the x-link when swapping TBs, but that only refers to the drive-by-wire throttle bodies right? If not, what else would I need for a 92 mm TB swap along with the TBSS intake swap as far as getting my cable driven TB to operate correctly with the intake swap?
Hey, sorry for the super late reply. I thought I replied to this a while ago, but I guess not. Since you are cable driven, you do NOT need the x link. You can either re-use your current throttle body, with a 3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter. Or you can upgrade to a 90mm cable driven throttle body. Make sure you get new gaskets. Besides that I think the only really big difference is that your supposed to have a bracket that mounts ontop of the intake to secure the throttle cables, right behind the throttle body. I know there is an aftermarket company that makes them, can't remember their name, but im sure you could get by without it.
You don’t need anything besides the bigger throttle body make sure it’s cable driven and you will just need a tune like you did before
That is the perfect truck. Ain't nothin not cool about it. Great video!
Thanks for the support, I appreciate it! She has definitely came a long way, but still have a little more to do to her 🤘
Awesome presentation! Subbed for sure. Love the exhaust, what the set up on that? Thanks
Ayyeee, thank you I appreciate it! The exhaust is 1 3/4" speed engineering long tube headers, catless Y pipe, single gibson muffler with gibson tips out the passanger side.
Can you purchase the TBSS complete with fuel rails and all parts required to install on an '06 Sierra 5.3? Great video.
Definitely, all the parts are linked in the description of the video. Or i would try Facebook marketplace, or the local pick a part/junkyard. Also the TBSS and NNBS intakes are the same thing
@@TheKingCoopa thanks much! AweSome!
@@dogdue4588 for sure, good luck with the swap!
When you installed your TBSS intake manifold, throttle body and X-link, did you have to get a tune after that, Ive seen some people that say that their truck will shut off or the throttle body doesn't work, but you mentioned you had a GM/AC Delco Throttle Body, ive seen a lot of knock off throttle bodies out there just didn't know if you had to get a tune immediately, I just purchased a TBSS intake with the OEM TBSS fuel injectors and stock TBSS throttle body, so interested in what you did. keep up the good work truck looks Nice!!
Hey, sorry for the late reply. If you do want to run the newer 90mm TB then you will need the X link adapter. Xlink stated it won't work with any of the knock off, ebay special TBs.
So technically any fuel or air flow changes you would need a tune to really maximize the add-ons, and to run properly. But if you do just the intake, with your stock TB, you will be fine. If you do the X link and 90mm Tb, you could probably drive it to the tuner. But if you swap out to the larger Injectors, then you will need a tune ASAP. The larger 36lb injectors caused my truck to run extremely rich, and would foul out a set of plugs in 5min of idle time. So I gave my tuner an extra $50 to come to me, so I didn't have to tow it to him. Hope that helps. Good luck on the swap 🤘
That sounds amazing. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this truck! New subscriber for sure!
Hey, sorry for the late reply. I appreciate the compliments. The truck has changed quite a bit since this video. Prepping the new built 6.0 LQ9 to get swapped in, along with 2step and a 200shot of NOS. Caged the inside. Also did a quadrasteer bed swap, so now I can run 14 wides in the back! Stay tuned for more updates, and thank you for the sub!!!
Great great video! Buying all parts needed for my 6.0 swap. But have a question..maybe you can or can’t help me. I have 2007 Silverado v6, single fuel line. Would I need to add some type of fuel regulator, or swap fuel pumps, or any other modifications to add the tbss intake with the 6.0 swap?
Hey, sounds like you have alot of work ahead of you 👌 seeing that you have a single fuel line, you have a return-less style fuel system. They are internally regulated in the tank/pump. So you do not need a regulator. One thing you should look up, is to make sure your stock fuel pump has enough pressure/GPH, since you are adding two more cylinders. I'm sure a stock v6 fuel pump would be fine on a stock V8. But if your cammed and modified, that stock v6 pump might not beable to keep up. But the pump stats online would beable to give you that info. Hope that helps, good luck with the swap, and thanks for the support!
@@TheKingCoopa awesome! I will definitely look into fuel pump stats! I went into Autozone and napa and input my trucks year and model changes v6 to v8 to find if part numbers were the same and they were, for the most part. Pumps changes if it were a crew cab or double cab really. But I will still double check pumps rating. Thank you so much! And yeah, it’s a stage 3 cam, flat top position with headers. Something to make it sound nice, lol not looking for racing really.
@@xXChevyRiderXx gotcha. Yea, if the part numbers are the same, you should be fine then. Also whenever you get it done, just to double check, you could run a fuel pressure guage off the Shradder valve on the fuel rail. Give it some revs and make sure the pressure doesn't have any crazy dips. But I'm sure you will be just fine 👌
Will this gain power with no tune on LQ4 and still pass smog? Thanks great video
Any airflow or fuel changes, a tune is needed/recommend. You will gain some power, but it won't be maximized without a tune. This shouldn't effect smog, as long as you still hook up your evap system.
Probably not the place to come for questions, but I'm having issues. Same cam you have, I'm running milled 706 heads. Had a 07 style intake ported to match heads and running 42lb injectors. My tuner set me a base tune to get it running. It will not idle, will not go over 3k sounds like it has a 2step. Would do the same before the base tune was added.
Hey, this could be so many things. You gonna have to take some time to track it down.
Did you make sure the timing gear and crank gear were aligned properly?
With milled heads did you check for proper pushrod length? You will need shorter pushrods.
Did you tourqe the pushrods properly?
Double check all your vacuum lines
Check to make sure the intake manifold is installed properly with new gaskets, to make sure its not sucking in air around the gaskets.
If you have the newer style DBW throttle body, did you use the X link? If you did use the xlink, are you running a GM/Acdelco throttle body? The xlink won't work if its an ebay special TB. Make sure the butterfly is operating.
Use a heat gun on the exhaust manifold to see if one side isn't firing, check the coil pack connector.
Check your shreader valve, on the fuel rail for proper fuel pressure.
If you ran the truck on larger injectors before the tune, your spark plugs are probably fowled out. They will need cleaned or replaced.
Also run some MAF spray cleaner through your MAF sensor.
Make sure you reuse the old gen III MAP sensor.
Also, you might have to tell your tuner to tune the truck with a speed density tune. Good luck!
@@TheKingCoopa Thanks for the reply, injectors were junk, went back with stock injectors, and it is running much better. Still having an issue intake is not leaking anywhere, but on the tune we have air flow maxed out and it will still occasionally die if you get in it hard and let out. Thinking intake is just junk. I'm running the stock 05 throttle body for the truck.
Think I’ve seen this truck on tiktok. Clean loooking truck.
Haha yup! And thank you, I appreciate it 🙏
Are you still up and doing videos. I. Just started following you. I'm going to try this on. My 5.3 Avalanche. ✌️👊💯
Hey, I'm still pretty active. I haven't posted in a few months, been super busy with my single cab to get any videos out. Doing a full build on it, and bit off more than I could chew 😅
Thats awesome though, hopefully the swap goes well 🤘 thanks for the sub and the support!!
NBS already have this intake
Correct, I corrected that in the description and in a few comments
Do you have to get a tune as tuning is a little difficult for California boys
If you just do the intake swap, you should be fine. But if you change the throttle body or injectors. Then a tune is definitely recommend
Awesome video!!! Question, What size speed engineering long tubes did you go with?
I went with 1 3/4. Tuner told me to go with that size. 5.3 l33 NA, ball park to be a 450-470 hp motor.
He said I could go with the 1 7/8 but 1 3/4 would be better.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. I had a 4.8L at the time, and I went with 1 3/4'. the 4.8L doesn't flow enough for the 1 7/8" and id probably lose a little power with those. since then ive swapped the a 6.0L and still rocking the 1 3/4"
I know this is an intake swap video, I’m curious to know how ur speed engineering headers have treated you! Did they have any fitment issues? Are they close to the steering column at all? Clean build for sure! Your vids are always straight forward and professional keep the content coming!
Thank you! They have been pretty great so far. I have had three issues with them, not really a huge deal though.
1. Was the Y pipe was a little hard to wiggle up past the trans crossmember. Took me like 10min to figure it out haha.
2. Is the Y pipe comes with a bung welded into it, so I can run my AFR gauge. Which is awesome, but those bungs for the sensors need to be welded in at a higher angle. They weld the bung in completely level, which allows the exhaust condensation to sit in the sensor tip, after you shut the engine off. Which will corrode the sensor, and I have already gone through two AFR sensors. They aren't cheap. So when I pull the exhaust out for my 6.0 LQ9 swap coming up soon, I'll weld in a new bung at the proper angle. If you're not running an AFR gauge, no big deal.
3. The clamps they send you are junk. Just throw them away. I went to Napa and got new exhaust clamps. The long 3in wide ones, you wrap around the tube, run the bolts through both sides of the clamp, then tighten the bolts down, and it will pull that clamp SUPER tight! Definitely recommend those.
Other than that, I haven't had any issues. The rest of the fitment was great, and doesn't hit anything. It also clears my front 4x4 driveshaft. If your gonna do longitudes, then I would just spend a little extra money and get ARP exhaust bolts. They are stronger, won't snap, and won't corrode into your heads. Also don't re-use your exhaust gaskets. Get a set of (MLS) multi layer steel gaskets. They work really well. Hope that all helps. Stay tuned, I just got a roll cage installed, and the 6.0 is at the machine shop getting prepped for the swap, along with 2step, and a 200 shot of NOS haha. Thanks for all the support!! Good luck!
@@TheKingCoopa make sure to put up numbers I’m gonna guess 490 hp 470 tq to the wheels
I’m having a problem with my brake booster I’m guessing keeps backfiring but now is idling good and my brakes are stiff. I think my brake booster fitting does not fit my stock hose
Hey, sorry for the extremely late reply!! A vacuum leak could definitely cause some idling/running issues. I'd definitely check over the hose fitting first, and even try a vacuum pressure test before you go and buy a new brake booster.
Also keep in mind it could potentially be two separate issues. I doubt it and you know your truck better than I do, but its always a possibility. Sorry I wasn't much help, I hope you figured it all out by now!
How much more hp/trq can I expect out of this upgrade (on average)?
Fyi: 2005 Tahoe with the following work,
6.0L LQ4 Swap
GM HotCam:
Lift Intake .525
Lift Exhaust .525
Duration Intake 267
Duration Exhaust 276
Lobe Separation 112
Lifter Upgrade/Pushrod Upgrade,
Valve Spring & Retainer Upgrade,
Upgrated Plugs, and Wires,
Intake, Headers, Straight Piped, and a Street Tune.
Honestly have no idea man. Thats a stupid big cam. The lift isn't that big, but the duration is. Most stock bottom end lq4 can only fit a high 230s low 240s duration. Im really surprised you dont have piston to valve issues. Hope you went with a 3000 stall and a built tranny. But id guess atleast 420hp to the wheels.
@@TheKingCoopa - I'm pretty sure he gave the full specs on that cam, not the duration at .050 (like most of the cams we talk about are rated). Based on that, his cam is around a 220⁰ cam at .050 lift. Not too crazy... ;)
Ahhh, okay. That makes alot more sense 👌 yea, not too crazy
Do you remember which of the rock auto injectors you used? There are a few choices
Hey, sorry for the late reply. In this video I had the stock TBSS/NBSS 36lb injectors. On my new setup, I went with Fast injectors called White Giants.
Great video! Super informative but easy to understand! And editing is on point!
Thanks, I appreciate it 🤘
What if u don’t have a break booster to put that vacuum line in
Hey, sorry for the late reply. If you don't have a line going to the brake booster, I'd just cap/plug that port in the back of the intake.
Cooper what’s up bro! We went to corporals course together I didn’t know you had all this info to share back then lol I’m trying to build my cat eye rn I’d love the tips bro!
Hey bro, I know we already talked on instagram, but let me know if there is anything you need. Thanks for the support 🤘
If you pull the fuel pump fuse, start it til it dies there's a little less fuel mess.
That would definitely work too!
JACK IS BACK!
Thanks bro!
I’m going through a complete brain fart over the evap system and how it’ll fit into my swap since my lm7 is going into a foxbody. Would I just block those off? Sorry if it’s an obvious question, I just wanna make sure I have no vacuum leaks or running issues
Yea, just block it off, and make sure your fuel tank/cell has a breather for the fuel to expand and contrast when it gets hot or cold. And try to make the breather higher than the fill/gas cap. So when you fill up, it doesn't piss out the breather
Do you still need Xlink if you have the TBSS throttle body? If not what is recommended? Thanks for taking the time to do this video huge help!
Hey, from the research I've done, yes you would still need it. The TBSS/NNBS throttle bodies use the newer wires and sends different signals than the older TB's. I think you can swap the pedal TAC module, and wiring from a Camaro to make it work. You can convert to a cable driven throttle body, but that will require more parts, and changing the tune. When it is all said and done I still believe the X link is the easiest and cheapest way around it. Don't quote me on that though. Hope that helps.
What happened to the corvette fuel filter
Hey, I didnt need it, as I have a return-less style fuel system. I have a section in this video on how to identify which fuel style you have 🤘
New injector harnesses? Obviously for TBSS nanifold.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. just depends what injectors you run. for the stock tbss injectors you can use adapters for plug and play, or you can hard wire the new connector onto your harness for a cleaner look.
Hello, my dear brother. I want you to clarify. Is there a difference with you in the horsepower in the dyno, and how much is the difference?
Hey, it makes about 14 more HP on an engine dyno. Here is a good video of the dyno results.
th-cam.com/video/a2M10LiwE7Q/w-d-xo.html
How does the fuel pressure regulator from the c5 ground
Hey, if the ground wire is long enough, I would attach the ground wire to the back of the driverside head. (Factory ground location). You may need to cut, extend, and soldier some longer wire onto it to reach, depending where you mounted the C5 fuel regulator. Hope that helps!
Excellent DIY video. Thank you!
Thank you, I appreciate it
Awsome video. does the stock return less style fuel pump support the 36lb injectors or did you upgrade the pump?
Hey, yes the stock pump will supported it. I'm not sure how maxed out it is. But on my new 6.0L with a larger cam, and nitrous, I'll probably need an upgraded fuel pump.
@@TheKingCoopa Thanks for the info saved me a ton of trouble.
I bought a summit racing atk 385 hp lm7 create its currently maxed out stock injectors at 303 hp to the wheels so I'm hoping this will get me around 350ish to the wheels have all supporting mods except Injectors so decided to do the tbss swap had to set my limiter to 5400 so I won't run lean
Is this list also for a 5.3 ???? I have a 06!!! Love the vid!!!!
Yup! 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, and 6.0L
So I done swap, and I loved it. But for some reason at times during deceleration there’s a whine. It’s happened with the 4.8 & 90mm throttle body. Have you had this problem?
Hey sorry for the late reply! Have you figured it out yet? Do you have an aftermarket CAI?
My BBK CAI on the corvette does the same thing, but its a high pitch whistle
Where does that evap hose go to the one behind the firewall ?
Hey, if I remember correctly, that hose is like 2 feet long, and discharges above the tranny/transfer case
I have a stick shift 5 speed I’ve been looking like crazy where to hook it up too but can’t find it do you know any alternative where too hook it up too
Not sure I need the purge solenoid. I'm going to replace my gas tank with a fuel cell, do I need the purge device?
Hey, I havnt done alot of research on the evap system. But I have seen alot of race truck setups, and I do know that they get rid of that system. I believe most guys just plug the hole where the evap tube/solenoid comes off the intake manifold, then change it in the tune as well. So it doesn't throw any codes, or act funny. Thats the best I got. Hope that helps 🤘
What are the chances that x-link will fail ... I say it because I did the same installation in my 2005 silverado and since I did it every time I accelerate to full speed it appears (reduces engine power) I buy everything new I do not know what is happening
Sorry for the late reply. You definitely have an issue going on. First thing I would do is throw a code reader on the truck and see what it comes up with. That will hopefully tell you a lot, you can narrow down and fix the issue. If not, next step I would do, is call up the company about the X-link, tell them the situation. If its the X-link, and is a common issue, then they will definitely know what to do. Or maybe they can work out a way to get you a new one. If neither of those two work, I'd look for a local reputable tuner, and have them take a look. A lot of times they can see things on the HP tuner software, that are out of the normal. And can help you narrow down what this issue is. Sorry, thats the best I got. Hope that helps! Good luck on your build.
By far best explained right here👏👌🙌👍💯 wish I saw this 3 days ago
Thank you! I tried to get this out sooner, just got super busy. Hope it answered any questions you still had (even though your almost finished with the install haha)
Super clean truck that sounds super sick, great video keep it up!..!
Thank you, I appreciate it. The dyno video will be getting posted soon. 🤘
Greetings friend awesome video. Question. Do I need an electric TB? I have a cable driven 4 bolt 92 mm.
Hey, if you're setup is cable driven, STAY cable driven. That is not worth the headache of trying to swap to the electric TB, just for no gains over a cable driven setup.
@@TheKingCoopa thanks bud I appreciate it! Also thank you for the video.
@@christopher18291 for sure, glad I could help 🤘and thanks for the support
what fuel pump would u recommend im building a 5.3 11.1 comp Afr heads not a crazy cam 425 -450 hp any one make a drop in pump that would pump enough thanks for your help
Hey, I would assume a single walbro 450 would do the trick. You can plumb it yourself in the existing fuel bucket. Its a little bit of work, but can be done. If you were wanting a complete drop in unit, with a hot wire/harness. Then Chris1313 racing is your guy (link below). He makes some nice stuff. I'm running his kit. Dual walbro 450s, drop in unit, with his billet top hat, and dual relay harness. The truck curently makes 580whp on nitrous since this video.
facebook.com/profile.php?id=100069750043445&mibextid=ZbWKwL
Thank you. There are so many guides that skip a lotta stuff but yours I so much more step by step. 👍🏾👍🏾
Thank you, I tried to include all the info I knew, without it being super boring. Hope it helps you out 🤘
When you did your cam swap did you have to put in a new Stall converter ? If you had to put a new one in what size Stall converter did you have to get. I'm trying to figure out if I should do TBSS intake manifold or a aftermarket intake. And I want to do a cam swap. If you can help me out I would really appreciate it. I really like the way your truck sounds.
Hey, first off if your looking for a new intake, look up Richard holdener on YT. He has dozens of intake comparison videos showing you all the charts and HP gains from an engine dyno. Alot of great info. The TBSS intake does surprisingly really well.
For the cam swap. A stock 5.3L gen III is about a 191 duration for intake/exhaust. A stock LS1 in a C5 corvette is about 198 to 200 duration. Once you get about a 216 duration, your gonna want a small stall converter. In this video I had a 226/234 112LSA, crane cam. And that was with a 2600 stall. It handled really well and drove like stock. My new setup is a built 6.0L/4l80e/AWD, and nitrous. The new camshaft is a 234/240 112LSA, from cam motion. Cam motion says it is a minimum requirement of a 3600 stall or larger to run that camshaft.
So if you just want the choppy sound and don't want to do the converter. Id say like a 215ish duration with a 110LSA. I wouldn't go lower than 110 on the LSA or the drive ability will suffer. But if your doing an intake, sounds like you want the power. So in that case I'd go with like a BTR stage 2 through 4 truck cam. And probably like a 2600 to 3000 stall.
But honestly the best advice I can give, is figure out your long term goal of the truck. Like a daily driver, fun toy, or eventually you want to boost it. Figure that out, and buy your parts twords that goal. So your not wasting money and changing out parts you already bought for something bigger, like me. But figure out what you want then make some phone calls. Call BTR and Cam Motion tell them your setup and they will spec out a cam shaft best suited for you. And they will tell you what stall you need.
Also can you just plug the intake side of the valve cover intake ? If you don't want to run it to the air intake? Thanks
Hey, sorry for the late reply. No, you can not plug the valve cover intake. The crank case needs fresh clean air. If you don't want to run it to the intake tube, I would run an oil catch can. That will help your engine out and will still allow clean air to the crank case. But at a bare minimum, I would atleast run one of those small autozone filters on the valve cover tube.
How does it work with a 2006 Chevrolet Tahoe vin z flex fuel 5.3 are they the same type of fuel rails and injectors or can I use my injectors from Tahoe. I not sure if someone could answer I would appreciate it thanks.
Hey, so with a little research I found that the 05- 07 classic Flex fuel injectors start at 35.404767lb and ramp up to 38.443005lb on a returnless system also based off a constant fuel pressure of 60 PSI. You would have a returnless fuel system. So you don't need the the C5 corvette filter. Your factory fuel rail won't fit over the tbss intake hump. So you would either have to cut your fuel rails, weld on AN fittings, run the AN line over the top to clear the hump. Then make little drop tabs to mount the fuel rails to the tbss intake.
Or, use your flex fuel injectors, the tbss fuel rail, and then you will need injectors risers, since the truck/suv injectors are a little shorter than tbss injectors. Hope that helps
Great video! But i have one question, What exactly did you do to make that air intake tube fit? did you get a new cup link Or did the kit already come with a cup link that fit, and how did you tilt the fan?
Hey, the air intake tube fits the 78mm TB and the new TB is a 90mm. So I got a rubber coupler, 4in to 4.5in I believe. It is linked in the description of the video.
The fan stayed in the same spot. Only thing I did was cut about 1in off the tips of each fan blade, to clear the intake tube
@@TheKingCoopa Thanks man! i appreciate it
@@diegotorres3860 for sure, good luck, and thanks for the support 🤘