A part 2 video would be great. Covering these topics perhaps: 1. Curved strap spring bars or not? 2. Taper from lugs to pin buckle. One size or two sizes down is best? 3. Stitching to 12:18 match the dial color or not? 4. Rubber straps vs leather. Thanks.
One thing that is very hard to find nowadays is straps made for bent springbars. Some watches were designed to use bent springbars, yet the straps are near impossible to source
I bend my bars with a couple of pliers; I use quick release and regulars, the only variation is that if you require a pronounced curve you need to use a bar 1 or even 2 mm longer to compensate the curve
I wish this was longer and had gotten into the G10/NATO/Zulu discussion including the terms and materials - I've personally been going with leather NATO's but often cutting away the watch keeper send pass piece. My next endeavor is to make my own
Very interesting and could go a lot further. I personally am into Tropic straps, all the little nuances into between original Tropics and modern Tropics. I like that they are textured like material, flexible, breathable and utilitarian. To me the perfect blend between dressy leather and a nato for the perfect travelling strap. I've tried and tested (nearly) them all and for those that care, Meraud make the very best modern Tropic.
Would say 12 min is not enough! nteresting strap at the start, also really like the versatility of the white dial gold tone watches when it comes to straps.
Have you seen the videos of bonobos having sex? There re lots to choose from but my favourite is the one where the weird grandad looking one was jerking and writhing. He looked weird but the female was enjoying it. They are similar to chimpanzees. I am going to Africa to go and look at bonobos having sex. Do you want to come? We can share a room to cut costs.
My issue with most straps is the lack of length options. As a man with a 6.2 inch wrist, most straps just don't fit me. Everyone uses the standard 120+80 layout when I would need a 110+70.
I can't use the 2nd keeper (and I love the look of the tip of the strap sticking through both keepers) and my wrist is a bit over 7", but but a bit flat, hence I need at least 125+75mm strap on a relatively big watch to have any hope of this looking right. And a lot of 125+75mm straps are in fact 123+73 or something like that and these few milimiters can make all the difference.
Great episode. I’ve got some wonderful watches that get less (or I dare say don’t get any!) wrist time because of the strap or bracelet. I need to rectify that.
I have a sin, or we shell Coravan strap that is single piece, and it is the most comfortable and soft and durable scrap that I own. I feel like it is never going to be lemonade because it does not have layers, and it’s honestly more comfortable than even as you believe bracelet or a silicone strap.
@@gmoneyb5559it could do if they designed it differently, in fact that might be a great business idea lol high quality spring bars where the inside bar has a further travel length than the 2mm, in fact it would even be possible to have one on each side. So think about a normal spring bar but this time it springs out 3.5mm on both sides giving the following advantages 1) even easier to get in because les force is needed 2) less production cost as you would only need say 3 sizes for example 8mm would cover 8mm to 14mm 14mm would cover 14mm - 20mm 20mm would cover 20mm -26mm And still have a buffer of 1mm 3) they theoretically should be more secure since the inner bar when fully extended will always be under spring tension having at minimum 1mm of constant force pushing the bar out Plus if one side does get pulled somehow reducing the bar size it’s negated by the spring opening up more on the other 4) you could even account for curved spring bars by having a split in the middle allowing it to “bend” yet since there are now 2 bars their spring will still work (let me think properly about this furst lol) Potential problems might be added wear and tear on the “cup” at the end of the lug barrel where the spring bars are inserted because of the constant force? However depending on how deep this is, I don’t think functionally it would make any difference since the pin still sits in as far as the hole is deep. Aestethically you wouldn’t see any differences obviously because it’s at the back of a tiny hole. This would have to be investigated tho, but I doubt the metal would grind down enough to be affected even for an every day watch. But who knows? Might be possible to have a solution to reduce tgr friction/grinding but im no meta material scientist, or that knowledgeable in this area. However even if the spring bar cost $1 to buy for a pair, and it did last only 5 years before the pin is ground down, there could be tiny stripes showing when it needs replacing because the spring travel is approaching only having 1mm left. But in return the client would have a superior systems that’s main job is security first, adding no complicated way of using it (it would simply be a double pinch) which requires less fiddling or strength. I’m sure nobody would object to even spending $10 let alone $1 on a more secure system for an expensive or sentimental watch, when in return they get back additional insurance via mechanical security and don’t need to worry about stuff getting loose or ready to break because there would be an inconspicuous stripe (or another sign I haven’t thought of yet) to tell the client when it should be replaced. I think even the traditional buckle system might be able to be improved… or not I haven’t thought about it but at least with this it can be retrofitted too
@@gmoneyb5559wow spring bars are a rip off haga considering I can buy a pack of 100 for $5 In Australia, the cost of watch spring bars varies depending on the retailer and type. For instance, The Sydney Strap Co. offers twin spring bars for $2.50 AUD . MWC Australia sells solid spring bars at $8.00 AUD per pair . Artem Straps provides a pack of four quick-release spring bars for $14.00 USD, which is approximately $21.00 AUD 
problems i see with watch staps , 1 instead of bucke the could use the same system as metal bracelet and the hole in wher the buckel is the point wher the strape brake 2 the leather is often to fin and will brake after 2-3years , 3 thows quick relice baret are quick way to lose or brake you watch , 4 they will often use the cheapest leather they could find , they are made to falle and brake after 2-3 years ,
A straight stitching isn't better than a slanted stitch. The only difference is the type of needle on the sewing machine to achieve the look. Larry clearly has some biases towards his Italian manufacturer. An example is handstitching/saddle stitching with french pricking irons which produces are a slanted look. One could argue that the machine stitching is not as durable as the saddle stitch method.
Sorry, not sorry. But quick release straps are largely garbage. They don't hold up, that little tab that's left on the side, always gives out. Great video though all the same!
Got to be honest, I am skeptical about the quick release spring bars. Never trusted their quality compared to the OEM bars that come with a high-end watch.
I only use quick release since 2017; the variation is not on the quality of the bar, but on the quality of the leather and construction; I only use standard bars if I will never switch the strap, but for my regular watches, Rolex included, quick release offer real flexibility without damaging the lugs
A good leather strap should be soft from the beginning, the quality of the leather needs to be nice and of course it needs to fit the design of the watch and also 4mm smaller than from the lugs of the watch. At the moment I really like after market straps from Molequin, they vintage watches.
We will need another video with this man!! One on leather strap maintenance, cleaning and storage.
Use shave cream.
I second that👍
So much patience and love on this gentleman. I felt like if my uncle was explaining me. Great video!
A part 2 video would be great. Covering these topics perhaps:
1. Curved strap spring bars or not?
2. Taper from lugs to pin buckle. One size or two sizes down is best?
3. Stitching to 12:18 match the dial color or not?
4. Rubber straps vs leather.
Thanks.
All except #1 are personal choice. I prefer no taper at all. But I know I’m in the minority.
One thing that is very hard to find nowadays is straps made for bent springbars. Some watches were designed to use bent springbars, yet the straps are near impossible to source
When I encountered a bent spring bar I was beyond frustrated. It was on a modern IWC portofino. Good riddance to them.
You shouldn't have too much trouble finding straps for curved spring bars. Take a look at Delugs and Veblenist just to name a couple.
Fpjourne
I bend my bars with a couple of pliers; I use quick release and regulars, the only variation is that if you require a pronounced curve you need to use a bar 1 or even 2 mm longer to compensate the curve
Aaron bespoke can make you one, the sky is the limit i got 4 from him so far and they are amazing
I wish this was longer and had gotten into the G10/NATO/Zulu discussion including the terms and materials - I've personally been going with leather NATO's but often cutting away the watch keeper send pass piece. My next endeavor is to make my own
How do we contact Larry to order straps?
What an informative video! I feel I know a lot about watches (and straps), and I learned some new things. Thanks for sharing.
Larry is the man ! The true king of watch straps 🙏🏻
It will be great to listen how different materials last and look over a period of time. For instance, horse skin vs alligator.
Very interesting and could go a lot further. I personally am into Tropic straps, all the little nuances into between original Tropics and modern Tropics.
I like that they are textured like material, flexible, breathable and utilitarian. To me the perfect blend between dressy leather and a nato for the perfect travelling strap.
I've tried and tested (nearly) them all and for those that care, Meraud make the very best modern Tropic.
Would say 12 min is not enough! nteresting strap at the start, also really like the versatility of the white dial gold tone watches when it comes to straps.
Thanks Larry! Great discussion. Very entertaining and informative.
Thanks Thomas for having Larry as a guest. Let's have follow up sessions with him. Maybe a livestream?
Have you seen the videos of bonobos having sex? There re lots to choose from but my favourite is the one where the weird grandad looking one was jerking and writhing. He looked weird but the female was enjoying it. They are similar to chimpanzees. I am going to Africa to go and look at bonobos having sex. Do you want to come? We can share a room to cut costs.
More, please! I LOVE watch straps and can’t get enough of this content!
I love this upload! Very informative. Thanks for the share!!
Would enjoy a much longer deep dive into straps w Larry
OMG.. The best and most informative video. Pretty detailed❤
Great information. This gentleman must have more to tell us. Invite him again
The man behind the curtain is finally unveiled! Larry is the best!
Does Larry have a site? How do I buy straps from him?
My issue with most straps is the lack of length options. As a man with a 6.2 inch wrist, most straps just don't fit me. Everyone uses the standard 120+80 layout when I would need a 110+70.
I can't use the 2nd keeper (and I love the look of the tip of the strap sticking through both keepers) and my wrist is a bit over 7", but but a bit flat, hence I need at least 125+75mm strap on a relatively big watch to have any hope of this looking right.
And a lot of 125+75mm straps are in fact 123+73 or something like that and these few milimiters can make all the difference.
I know this comment was from six months ago, but have you checked out the options from Etsy?
I also have a thin wrist, and order my straps from The House of Straps, which offers every strap in three lengths including 110/65.
Good video. Very helpful. How about doing one on deployment straps? Good ones? Bad ones? Or none at all?
Great episode. I’ve got some wonderful watches that get less (or I dare say don’t get any!) wrist time because of the strap or bracelet. I need to rectify that.
Very informative and entertaining video! Great job as always Mr. Hendricks! 😎
Good stuff. Keep making these great videos!
Loved this episode!!
Wonderful discussion. Thank you!
That was awesome, thanks for sharing!
Hello, I bought 2 watch straps before watching your video. 😧😧😧😱😱
What should I do now? Should I return them, throw away, or can I use them?
I have a sin, or we shell Coravan strap that is single piece, and it is the most comfortable and soft and durable scrap that I own. I feel like it is never going to be lemonade because it does not have layers, and it’s honestly more comfortable than even as you believe bracelet or a silicone strap.
I like lizard straps more than croc ones because it has more detail
Ive noticed cheap watch straps have this grey middle layer and they ALWAYS come apart
Interesting presentation. Thanks guys
Excellent Video! Do you have one on bracelets by any chance?
I would like to give Larry my business!
Very interesting video! Thanks!
Always used a knife for spring bars and case backs never cut myself yet.
I slash all my straps and shove a quick release bar on them, it baffles me why it’s not standard.
Some people feel like the quick release are not as secure and might come undone. But I agree with you, the quick release is better.
Quick release does not account for different spring bar tip sizes which is crucial for higher end pieces
@@gmoneyb5559it could do if they designed it differently, in fact that might be a great business idea lol high quality spring bars where the inside bar has a further travel length than the 2mm, in fact it would even be possible to have one on each side. So think about a normal spring bar but this time it springs out 3.5mm on both sides giving the following advantages
1) even easier to get in because les force is needed
2) less production cost as you would only need say 3 sizes for example
8mm would cover
8mm to 14mm
14mm would cover
14mm - 20mm
20mm would cover
20mm -26mm
And still have a buffer of 1mm
3) they theoretically should be more secure since the inner bar when fully extended will always be under spring tension having at minimum 1mm of constant force pushing the bar out
Plus if one side does get pulled somehow reducing the bar size it’s negated by the spring opening up more on the other
4) you could even account for curved spring bars by having a split in the middle allowing it to “bend” yet since there are now 2 bars their spring will still work (let me think properly about this furst lol)
Potential problems might be added wear and tear on the “cup” at the end of the lug barrel where the spring bars are inserted because of the constant force? However depending on how deep this is, I don’t think functionally it would make any difference since the pin still sits in as far as the hole is deep. Aestethically you wouldn’t see any differences obviously because it’s at the back of a tiny hole. This would have to be investigated tho, but I doubt the metal would grind down enough to be affected even for an every day watch. But who knows? Might be possible to have a solution to reduce tgr friction/grinding but im no meta material scientist, or that knowledgeable in this area.
However even if the spring bar cost $1 to buy for a pair, and it did last only 5 years before the pin is ground down, there could be tiny stripes showing when it needs replacing because the spring travel is approaching only having 1mm left.
But in return the client would have a superior systems that’s main job is security first, adding no complicated way of using it (it would simply be a double pinch) which requires less fiddling or strength.
I’m sure nobody would object to even spending $10 let alone $1 on a more secure system for an expensive or sentimental watch, when in return they get back additional insurance via mechanical security and don’t need to worry about stuff getting loose or ready to break because there would be an inconspicuous stripe (or another sign I haven’t thought of yet) to tell the client when it should be replaced.
I think even the traditional buckle system might be able to be improved… or not I haven’t thought about it but at least with this it can be retrofitted too
@@gmoneyb5559wow spring bars are a rip off haga considering I can buy a pack of 100 for $5
In Australia, the cost of watch spring bars varies depending on the retailer and type. For instance, The Sydney Strap Co. offers twin spring bars for $2.50 AUD . MWC Australia sells solid spring bars at $8.00 AUD per pair . Artem Straps provides a pack of four quick-release spring bars for $14.00 USD, which is approximately $21.00 AUD 
we need 2 more videos from this man on NATO, Zulu etc.
Very informative
He is the strap master. 🎉
problems i see with watch staps , 1 instead of bucke the could use the same system as metal bracelet and the hole in wher the buckel is the point wher the strape brake 2 the leather is often to fin and will brake after 2-3years , 3 thows quick relice baret are quick way to lose or brake you watch , 4 they will often use the cheapest leather they could find , they are made to falle and brake after 2-3 years ,
I am looking for a nice round scale shiny dark brown with nuances crocodile strap and I have an hard time finding one
Why want this video an hour long !! Very interesting
Larry making his TH-cam debut?! He’s the best.
Would you know, how could I buy one of his straps?
Acrylic Glass & Nylon Strap Watch
It luks Trendy & Casual
Great video
Very lovely since watch straps are my new interest.
Where is the best place to get a 21 mm strap?
A straight stitching isn't better than a slanted stitch. The only difference is the type of needle on the sewing machine to achieve the look. Larry clearly has some biases towards his Italian manufacturer.
An example is handstitching/saddle stitching with french pricking irons which produces are a slanted look. One could argue that the machine stitching is not as durable as the saddle stitch method.
That is not herringbone, but rather a woven (plain weave) pattern at a 45 degree angle.
All i need is a color guide for watch strap
I've had so many of those quick release tabs break from my baboon thumbnail that I actually prefer the springbar tool for the most part now.
Please make a video about Velle Alexander. I buy all my straps exclusively from him. He is a true artisan.
This video only discusses leather straps. Should be included in the title
Larry is so cool 😎
Straps are consumables and you’re going to replace them over the years. I just buy ones I like and replace every so often.
I almost fell asleep, waiting for the brand name. So, whats the brandname?.
Hey! Hope you caught up on your sleep 🙂 He's a white label supplier for various retailers.
And Apple says ‘no leather’ possibly misguided 😂
“They made straps out of anything that moved.” Homie my fellow Mexicans have been doing the same since the day they gained their independence. 😂
I own many watches just so I can buy more straps.
“Dont buy a watch strap before you watch this.”
…too late.
Taper taper taper he never mentioned it
Because that is a stylistic point. Plenty of cheap papery leather straps taper but are still poorly constructed.
So many double entendres!
Shit !!! I had bought watch straps before watching this video 😔
Far cry 4
Sorry, not sorry. But quick release straps are largely garbage. They don't hold up, that little tab that's left on the side, always gives out. Great video though all the same!
Whould have been nice show the difference of the construction better didn't shaw any difference, en this so called rembordey?
Got to be honest, I am skeptical about the quick release spring bars. Never trusted their quality compared to the OEM bars that come with a high-end watch.
I only use quick release since 2017; the variation is not on the quality of the bar, but on the quality of the leather and construction; I only use standard bars if I will never switch the strap, but for my regular watches, Rolex included, quick release offer real flexibility without damaging the lugs
A good leather strap should be soft from the beginning, the quality of the leather needs to be nice and of course it needs to fit the design of the watch and also 4mm smaller than from the lugs of the watch. At the moment I really like after market straps from Molequin, they vintage watches.