Rotor Aldhu Crankset Teardown | SHIMANO drop in replacement
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The Rotor Aldhu and Vegast cranksets are modular units from Spanish Company Rotor. Previously, rotor cranksets were pretty crap but these ones are a huge improvement and the modular concept is quite good.
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Shimano Crank Reaming Teardown • Shimano REAMED for Eng...
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Haha love the subtle dura ace crank just falling apart in your hands like a top gear challenge car in the hands of the Stig. 🤣🤣🤣
Laughed my azz off to that one 😆
It is said after a fresh trim hambini once measured his hair for symmetrical tolerance and found it considerably better than(name omitted for legal reasons)a component manufacturer connected with the cycle industry.
Glad I'm still running 105 after this👍
Same color as his hair? I just call em as I see 'em. ABSOLUT Hacks. I wouldn't call those 'bike components'. Its very soon to be dumpster filling. Then landfill.
I find grifters and their victims amazing. Its great entertainment, not to mention, job security for me!
Absolute Black. There, I said it. Pure garbage claims by an equally garbage company.
still rocking the old 3d model after 8 freakin years and I bought it used. No regrets. No play, no worn axles nothing. just scuffs on the crank arms.
ALDHU + Hambini Racing BB is a great combination!
I've used Rotor Aldhu cranks for about 10000 km now, when I got them the preload ring was MUCH tighter (borderline impossible) to adjust than shown in the video, but it still works and I dont get any play in the cranks. A benefit of the modular system is that you can mount a power meter or Rotors own adaptor to 110 4 bolt bcd. For me I've been using a Sigeyi powermeter on my Rotor cranks with no issues. This setup was pretty much the best I could find that would allow me to run a 24 mm axle with a crank based power meter, Dura-Ace pm is pretty bad and Rotors options seems a bit overpriced. Nearly all other power cranks either use 30 mm axles, apart from Quarq which uses DUB and still makes a few using GXP.
I'd buy this setup again
Oh and I forgot to add, Power2Max also uses the Aldhus for their 24mm axle versions
Take the preload collar off and add some grease on the threads, so it wont get stuck in the future.
@@carlmlr That's the one I've been riding for about 10K as well. The best setup I could find to use on different bikes, zero issues so far.
@@luukrutten1295 It worked fine before, but you comment inspired me to get it off and put grease on it. Now it's exactly the same as before but it can spin! :)
Similiar for me but running a Power2Max power meter, without any troubles. But I will check the preload after this vid now.
With Aldhu respect, it felt conclusion was a bit more rushed than on most previous vids. I'm taking away that it's
A, Overall very well made, definitely better built than those Dura Mess.
B, still has a couple drawbacks, nothing too major but one thing to be wary of when setting it up to avoid major lateral deviation of the chain.
C, it is possibly sensitive to a few more issues that are almost guaranteed not to occur on a trusty 105 set.
Oh and absolute shite, who still buys that ? Aren't they out of business already ?
Your Dad, AB got a affectionate cameo appearance, how nice of you to think of them..... Ahhhhhhhh ❤️
1st I remember Peak Torque liked that one!! He praised the Rotor Aldhu!
Yep, but he also say that the aldhu will be extremely difficult to produce with consistent quality
@@einarhays title was misleading actually, seems to be quite good!
I have two of this type of Rotor cranks
on 30mm axles good as gold .
Keep up the excellent work Hambini.
If you want to combine your own chainring combo you can get the spider and loose chainrings. These are the Direct Mount single piece ones.
Plus, they are same bolt pattern as shimano if I remember correctly. Seen many rotor chainrings on Shimano cranks
@@pauperismarti2226 Rotor offers different spiders , 5 arms bcd 110 en also 4 arms bcd 110.
Some manufacturers appear to be standardizing on the compact bolt ring pattern. Is the 110 mm pattern sufficient to support a 53 or in the case of a TT a 55 or 56 ring? Is there enough torsional stiffness to make a carbon fiber inner circle ring with steel teeth? I think we are reaching the end of carbon fiber utility. Do we start using far more expensive man-made materials with longer strand length and less likelihood of tearing to lighten the frames still more or do you suppose that racers are going to stop effecting sales so much. I am old and have returned to steel because of its ride. It climbs slower. So what? Not that I was never a climber despite the millions of feet I've climbed. Perhaps it's because I'm so old but I think that the epitome of cycling was the good steel frames of the mid to late 90's. While they weren't all that light (my Moser is 19 lbs.) they ride nearly perfect in my mind. (And butt) Not aero? I'm having a really good day holding 17 mph for 20 minutes. I can hardly detect aero wheels. While we can blame that on my age, how much difference is that from MOST 30 year old's?
99.9% of your speed on a bike is determined by your engine, not your bike frame or components. The bike industry has done an amazing marketing job using paid sponsorships of their products with pro level racers to convince masses of amateur gullible idiots that they need multi thousand dollar CF disposable cookie cutter bike frames, silly priced CF wheels, and amateur level nonsense like power meters and bar held computers to ride effectively or even race effectively at the amateur level. It’s all marketing BS being sold to amateur level posers, status symbol seekers, and clueless clown types.
I regularly encounter these clowns in the hills around Boulder and Golden, CO and I regularly drop the vast majority of them and see them getting easily dropped by many other riders. And when it regularly occurs their cute little poser power meters and Garmin computers, their cute little Enve or Zipp wheels, and their silly priced SWorks and Trek frames, etc.. don’t seem to make a hill of beans difference in their speed getting up a climb. But hey, when their ride is over they can always myopically go gaga over their “massive” 200 watt power output for 15 minutes. 😀😀
Cycling has become the new golf recreation. Loaded with poser clowns buying gear to imitate what sponsored pros use while laughably thinking all these gadgets and silly priced frames and components will make them magically faster.
@@ivanboesky1520 Feel better now?
There is a gcn video (both in spanish and english) where you can see the raw material they are manufactured from. It’s all wrought Aluminium, plates for the chainrings and billets for the cranks.
You can also go for a separate 2x and even have an inspider powermeter added, which is what I got and works perfect.
I’ve also noticed that the hard anodized layer on the rings is superior to that of shimano.
From a subjective p.o.v. I would agree rotor’s setup feels stiffer than the ultegra I had on before.
Overall a great product and well worth the money.
I'll second this subjective stiffer feeling. Grx to the aldhu that came with my power2max spider feels stiffer. Both were 175mm cranks.
GCN tech show today, Oli mentioned his hairdresser was on vacation.... Hambini's hairdresser also on vacation....
Coincidence 🤔🤔🤔🤔
When the pen doesn't work for a week, he will finish the work so much quicker when he finally gets around to it.
I´ve heard there´s a vast array of clips coming during this week. Sure. Rgr
Thanks to your similar video about galvanic corrosion. I was deterred to buying such and instead when replacing my 170mm crank for 165mm I went for Prowheel chariot forged cranks. The supreme vintage technology. Even if a horse rides those cranks it will sustain
Got these cranksets for a while, the only two things I don't like is: a) The spindle seems a little wider than Shimano ones, makes it harder to install and remove. b) The preload ring is much harder to ues compared to the Shimano one.
Otherwise, pretty awesome. Cheap Sigeyi powermeter, tons of options for crank arm length, different levels between budget and weight for crankarms (had both aldhu and vegast)
I am considering buying a new crankset and vegast or aldhu are the two options. For me with a cat 2 performance in 5-20-60 min power I do not see the price difference justified between the two, so will happily settle for vegast, but I'd like to ask your opinion. Do you experience any benefit from the aldhu over the vegast? I have previous experience with 5800 and 6800 Shimano and Force 22 Sram and personally, I did not feel huge differences between them. Thank you!
"we'll be doing a full review on that shortly"-gold.
Rotor is seasoned in using cnc router finishing as part of the artwork on chainrings and cranks, same for Hope.
sram later did some referencing through printing and decal.
running 105 on one bike, Rotor Aldhu on the gravel one, no problems whatsoever. Also using Rotor means you can install a 3rd party crank based power meter. As you can see even Hambini could find very few issues with this crankset.
I have had good experiences with the Rotor system - I think it's a previous generation where the spider is attached via the older wider lobed interface. That one is used with a Power2Max power meter. The modularity came in handy when it was time to change the bike - was able to put my preferred 24 mm spindle and bigger bearings instead of using a BB30 system.
No issues with that - except as mentioned, the instructions are pretty bad. Several online videos and references help, including those from P2Max themselves.
I have been using these but with an. INspider power meter. No issues but Rotor have brought out carbon Aldhu cranks but only for the 30 not the 24's.
the industry is just taking the piss now, would never have seen a crank arm fall apart like that 30 years ago
this product was clearly engineered for fiscal brevity
I just got this same exact Aldu 155mm crankset I'm glad to hear Hambini didn't find anything wrong with it. Anything not Dura Ace is better these days.
Last time I checked there are not just a few vendors "operating on the 24mm" crankset. Prowheel, Goldix, ZTTO, and a few others. Pick and choose.
Can't wait to see you review more cranks!
Rotor crakarms are drilled, so yes it's one piece but it's also hollow (three long holes through the whole crak arm, you can see where they put material to close the holes...
Three bikes now with Rotor Cranks (Record or Super Record on the road bikes). I have seen many carbon MTN cranks fail, many Shimano cranks fail....never seen a dead Rotor Crank. I am also a fan boy of the QRings....but, I digress.
Hambini you can buy chainrings individually to your taste, just have to buy the spider to allow different chainring combinations.
Only possible with the 5-bolt version though, the 4-bolt only takes their own chainrings.
@@yonglingng5640 I have it with a Power2max power meter in 4 bolt and it can take various Shimano chain rings.
@@GregRenwick Yes, your 4-bolt holes aren't pocketed, so you're all good.
Great review! As someone who's had two 6800 cranksets fail in the fashion you described, I've looked at the rotor crankset but to me, it's hard to spend that kind of money when you compare it to a 105. Sure, a 105 might fail after several years but you can buy quite a few 105's for the price of a single rotor crank. For the cost of getting new chainrings on a rotor, you can get an entirely new 105 crank.
Um. No? I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from but my full Rotor Vegast setup was €200.
@@driventomadness117 At the rotor America site, a Vegast crank with two rings and and the axle is $500. That's what you'd get with a new 105 crank but the 105 crank is only $166. Am I looking at this wrong? To me, it looks like $200 gets you the cranks without anything else.
Edit: Checked the international site and the Vegast with chainrings and axle is €400. I'm guessing you didn't need chainrings but the 105 comes with new chainrings so to keep the comparison apples to apples, you should include new chainrings, right?
105 might fail after a few years? Not sure about latest Di2 105 12sp crank but my 10sp 105 seems damn near bulletproof. I'd expect it to survive the apocalypse. Right along with cockroaches and piston wrist pins.
@@mike_f there's a weakness with the way the Shimano cranks are manufactured where the two halves that are bonded together can separate. I've had two Ultegra cranks fail in that fashion and I assume the 105 could be susceptible to the same issue. Hambini talks about that issue in the video and it's one reason look at rotor cranks.
@@shoerhino I'm aware of Ultegra and DA. But 105 was always different construction. 10sp was definitely not 2 halves. Not sure about 11sp but think it was not. So those, to my knowledge are bulletproof. But 105 12sp may be the 2 halves construction which would be a drag IMO.
I prefer the Shimano Pre Load. I have owned 3 Rotor cranksets and I have never been able to set them as freely as the Shimano.
I wonder why more manufacturers don't use the same system. I think FSA does as well, but perhaps they pay a licensing fee. There are Chinese mfgs which do but they don't care about licensing.
@@szurketaltos2693 Hambini mentions this in the video: the Shimano Hollowtech II preload system is patented.
I've had FSA cranks before and mine used a wavy washer for preload. The Shimano preload system doesn't work with a self-extracting crank bolt like what FSA tends to use, since it takes up the space that the Shimano preload bolt would otherwise occupy.
@@TypeVertigo hm, I remember having an older FSA crank with pinch bolts like the Shimano style, could be misremembering, and I definitely have an IXF crank that does but again, mainland China and patents.
@@TypeVertigo ah, I searched eBay and found some same model FSA gossamer cranks that use the pinch bolt system. So could be that Shimano threatened them with a lawsuit and they stopped using that design.
Still DA the biggest sponsor no matter what. Nothing is gonna changed at least for another year.
Would've loved to get more of a conclusion in the video but appreciate it nonetheless. Rotor aluminium cranks have been my absolute favourite for years. Every bike that came with other expensive cranks eventually (after a few rides) had them yanked out (SRAM X01, RaceFace Next2 Carbon, Easton EC90, Shimano Ultegra, etc.). The oldest one I have right now is a 3D30 that I've been using for about 6 years and it's still as stiff and tight as in the beginning. The one-piece 46/30 chainring has also held up very well and I didn't experience any major flex with it compared to a bolted system with a 110 BCD. I'm running the Aldhu and Kapic cranks on other bikes, and they've been a joy. What always impresses me are the spindles. My experience has been that they have much tighter tolerances than SRAM, Shimano, and RaceFace/Easton. Combined with a decent BB, these simply go and go.
So, I felt that this one lacked a conclusion. The title calls it a "krapset" but no real deficiencies are highlighted. If at the end you could sum up and say that it's pretty good, maybe that would be more clear. (basically that is the conclusion that I got from the video)
Now I have an aldhu on my bike, partially to get 165 cranks. I have a power2max power meter and it's set up for Shimano chain rings. I can fit various combinations from 34-50 up. So the idea that users are limited in their chain ring choice is incorrect, at least in my case.
I could have got it with 5 bolt Praxis chain rings as well, and I'm guessing other options are available.
Otherwise, a decent breakdown of the product. Too bad about the title, because it seems to be a pretty good product.
agree. got the p2m shimano set up on 170mm and has been great
Clickbaity title
I use a xCadey power crankset, it's pretty much the same as the rotor aldhu with modular parts, 24mm axle w/ tapered splines but with 4 holes drilled inside the crankarms, the power spider/chainrings are bolted onto the crank arm, and it's much cheaper than the rotor aldhu. Not 100% sure what the axle is made of though, I suspect alloy (because of the price) but some claim it's titanium.
"This is the Dura Ace.." CLANK!!! Great!!! Rgr
Bought this one to replace the failed 9000 one 😂 . Thanks for the video.❤
it would be awesome if you test the actual stiffness of the aldhu and dura crap crankset + set it in relation to the weight of both. cheers
New test out now on Fair Wheel Bikes
My gosh lol.... Hambini praising a enginurd.... Wonders will never cease lol
Hambini time!!! thanks for this, I have being using qrings for years and these cranks with the power meter are on the shopping list :)
I appreciate your job. I hope your critical look will led a bike manufacturers to pay more attention to quality for their overpriced products.
I've been running the cheaper version of these cranks (Veghast) on a steel 24mm axle through a Hambini Racing PF30 BB for nearly 2 years. I'm using the 46/30 direct mount chainrings. No problems whatsoever. Axles and chainrings are exactly the same as those shown in this video.
I love my rotor 3d 2inpower chainset. Solid as a rock, had it on 2 bikes now and still great. You seemed to like it too when you had it when fitting my bb on my bike. I wouldn’t pick anything but rotor tbh now
LOL
I love Rotor cranks. I have 3 sets and can move them around from road, gravel, and mtb, just by changing the axle. And they are stiff AF. A very important attribute when you only ride Singlespeed.
I am subbed with the bell icon clicked and i have not got any of your latest videos in my sub box, it was only when i searched Hambini did i find your most recent videos. Something suspect with the algorithm. Keep up the good work and thanks for keeping these company's honest.
LBS which had a load of borked DA & Ultegra cranksets has been pushing customers towards Rotor and SRAM AXS GXP or DUB for nearly 2 years. In the Spring they stopped pushing Rotor due to high axle failure rate - oddly higher with steel 24mm than their alu.
I had a Rotor 3D back in 2015 and according to people I trust, that was the cause of the ubiquitous creaking in Cervélos from that era, including mine. After several potential solutions failed, I threw the Rotor away, put an Ultegra on and had ZERO issues… until it cracked hahahah… damn it…
Is there a high axle failure rate with Rotor???
I have had 3 rotor crank arm failures same way cracking at top of arm. Non drive side , rotor said they never had that issue and I sent one back and they kept it with out sending me new one next 2 same prob and they blaming it on me / bike shop install
My NDS crank 165mm Vegast 24 failed
After ~7 rides and broken threads. I've users a 175 for several months without issues so they indicates that Rotor has a huge variation in quality and accuracy. Not something you want on your cranks.
Praise indeed. When my bombproof Claris fails me, I'll know where to look.
Claris is excellent for everyday use. Components are cheaper to replace when they wear out.
I just upgrades my Rotor cranks from the aluminium arms you featured to the new carbon arms, and its a big improvement in stiffness. Have to see how long they last but they seem pretty good so far
Update, carbon arms holding up perfectly, so far
Carbon fiber has a finite life, most definitely shorter than quality solid metal cranks. All things carbon fiber have limited safe usable life. This is as it is. Believing differently will ultimately result in disappointment.
I got 1 and a half years and the bonded aluminium insert on the nds at the bb end unbonded from the carbon. Keep an eye on that
Was looking at getting a new crankset for my backpacking / adventure bike. I’ll have a gander at these.
I have 10000km + on the Aldhu carbon paired to a 110bcd 4 bolt sigeyi power meter. Zero Issues.
@NewTube Channel I peak @ 1265w and my ftp is 317w for a modest 4.54wkg ;)… one thing i could say is bad about rotor is their chainring bolts , absolute crap.
@NewTube Channel i bought it cuz it looks hella cool haha seems like nothing escape a hambini reaming and every single component is shite… when are we gonna get a full hambini groupset ? Haha
You can buy a spider so you can then put your own chainrings on as well
For Rotor's spiders, only the 5-bolt version can take any chainring you like, the 4-bolt version takes only theirs.
I love the setup in combination with the ngpower2max spider based powermeter. I just notice on the driveside the shimano rings attached on the powerdisk are e few mm more to the outside , so i needed to adjust the front derailler also to his limit outside.
When you do the absolute review, please try to include the mountain bike size. They are really popular in that sphere, especially 1x.
One could be forgiven in thinking that some proper thoughtful, considered engineering has gone into this (for once) ;-)
Pretty sure they're machined on the inside with longitudinal drilling like their old 3D+ crank.
The only preload collars I've seen broken have been aluminum ones. On the plastic ones, the screw head sometimes rounds out, and it's difficult to find a proper replacement.
Rotor chainrings have had very good shifting in recent times.
I had to revert from a crappy GPX Quarq PM to a std 24mm crankset and Rotor was on the wishlist. I however gave up on Rotors solely due to the possibility of having issues at this weird joint, a tapered joint for the crankarm over and fixing a splined joint for the chainrings. The tolerances need to be VERY good there to avoid any play on the chainrings. I didn't bet on it.
I have a Rotor 3D24 that i use on a single speed. It is beautifully made.
Same. One of my biggest regrets was selling it...
new 12s Ultegra is hollow forged, like 105, 12s dura ace is mixed. Left crank is hollow forged, right is hollow bonded.... let's see how that goes.
Is it 105 R7000 crank that's hollow forged, or the new 105 that's hollow forged?
@@thedownunderverse all hollowtech 105s are hollowforged.
@@LainOTN I’m not sure that’s right. I thought so too but then I saw a video in which bond lines can clearly be seen on R7000 cranks… though the joins are in a slightly different spot
Could you provide a source where it says that the new 12s Ultegra is hollow forged instead of bonded? Thank you!
@@takimoto8421 I have it, will try to upload some photos.
HELLO HAMBINI! 🔥👍💪
We are going back to 24 mm steal cranks and threaded bottom brackets, hilarious in my opinion. Will rim brakes come back?
Let's hope so!
Yea but rim brakes are good
I wrench in a shop. Road disc brakes are such incredible job security that I've spent entire work days working on nothing but 'amazing' disc brakes. Theyre supposed to last longer yet this stuff just flies off the shelves! We don't replace many rim brake pads for some odd reason! There has been a time where we limited sales to 4 sets of brake pads due to supply chain issues. Many are $30 plus per pair!
Here in Wackofornia we've been in a drought for a couple years now!
It probably helps my bottom line that my shop is at the bottom of a 3000 foot mountain, yet many roadies are afraid to use that front freakin brake! I find this fascinating!
@@rollinrat4850 spot on
@NewTube Channel they should give options to buy rim brake high end bikes. Many people neither need discs nor they like them
I jusst reopalced my brand new Easton crankset, (which was causing some annoying rubbing) with Rotor VEGAST and it is absolutely perfect, straight and stiff. It goes well with my top notch TIME 2023 frame : ) Highly recommended.
The biggest tool in the tool shed 😃
Time to launch the Hambini crankset. One piece Niobium superalloy construction for the most demanding cyclist.
Awesome we are returning back to the originals, one piece double rings, square bottom shaft type arrangement, we moved away from doubled set chain rings in order to get different arrangements so this is a no go for many custom bikes.
The bottom shaft ends are not square and a variety of chain rings are available. Mine are vanilla Shimano
@@GregRenwick It was a sarcastic joke as in we are coming full circle. Just waiting for the day those GCN fools push for Square BB claiming superior drag and spinning 😂
@@danfuerthgillis4483 ok. I don't watch those guys. It's a good product and was reasonably priced. The chain rings are individual pieces bolted on just like Shimano chain rings. (cuz they are Shimano chain rings)
@@GregRenwick Yep the only issue with these rings is they are one piece, so that means no 52-40 combo ( don’t know if they make it) or 52/39 for example. I am on a 52/40 setup and really like it a lot in the flats as I don’t have any mountains here for 300 km, the 40t ring is really nice in heavier winds as it allows for faster speed without increased cadence.
@@danfuerthgillis4483 Right, so you buy the spider that mounts individual chain rings and then there is no problem. The review implies that the one piece chain rings (2 rings in one piece) is the only choice but that is incorrect. I know this because I have this setup on my bike. And have had 2 different combinations of chain rings.
This episode was very anticipated!!!!
Great, I own 3D 24 and 30 with the old 5 bolts spider so I get both advantages crank arm drilling and 5 bolts system to diminish the chainring flex???
Have to say i installed some Aldhus and the finish and machined quality seems outstanding.
Love that they passed your vibe check, made in my hometown Madrid suburbs
hi hambini, maybe a stupid question - but why is the non-drive side thread of the rotor axle closing counter-clockwise? means each pedal stroke potentially loosens? had loose threads twice over the last months. design failure? what speaks against clockwise thread on the non-drive side?
I have a Rotor Hawk crankset wih a single 36t ring...its basically the mtb version of the Aldhu, Its been solid for the last few years with no issues apart from a slight creak which I thought was originally from the pedal threads, I took the cranks off and gave the interfaces a clean and light regrease..properly re-torqued up and since all silent. I like the overall design but I agree the manual is pretty crap with very little info.
15:05; “the Shimano equivalent is….” Scrap by the looks of it 😂
I ordered a ROTOR carbon crankset. It has not arrived yet. I will keep you posted!
Mine just arrived
@@renaissancefam5465 How long did you wait to get it?
My rotor left crank leg unscrews itsself while riding LOL. Glad i got rid of this shit and replaced it with a grx 810
Same here. It not only unscrewed, it failed. Looks like a pattern with the NDS cranks. Which crank length? Looks like the 175mm has more meat on the treads than the shorter ones.
Same here: left arm comes off
@@hesiodus7 get rid of it, sell it to a poor soul, and get a grx 810. So far ive got 25k kms on my crank and it still runs like new
You always have so beautiful hair! Wirklich schöne Haare!
would be nice to see some more "niche" crank tested like: ee wing, garbaruk, sturdy cycles, white industies, ingrid, 5dev
I used to be the brand manager for Rotor in Australia. You should have seen the fucking state of the order sheets they used to send me. Dreadful.
You’re alive!?
I would like to know more.
@@lasrachtech.1341 Not really.
@@sabamacx Seizure inducing, primary coloured, bold comic sans filled, impossible to navigate Excel spreadsheets, with endless missing SKU codes, repeated items, no sorting or categorising of any kind, which they would send several updates to throughout the ordering periods so you would have to attempt to =index(match) your current work into the latest version, and lose 20% of your order in the process, time and time again. Pricing changing constantly as well, plus a cute habit of splitting orders across various different types of shipping methods and companies, so orders would arrive incomplete, and damaged.
Chicago Schwinn bikes are peak performance. Their 1-piece forged Ashtabula crankset yields peak stiffness and durability. Modern Look cranksets emulate this same design but only using modern manufacturing and materials (i.e. carbon fiber). Schwinn forged steel forks (again forged in Ashtabula, Ohio) are also some of the most aero forks ever made. Sir Velo Vroomen himself testified that the Schwinn forged fork is the fastest fork ever tested.
I’ll stick with Shimano 7800, no problems with those falling apart and aesthetically they are streets ahead of the recent stuff.
Octalink is not a great solution, it runs smaller bearings than square taper cranks, but is stiffer. However it relies on properly faced threaded bottom brackets. If its not faced it wont have a long life. 7800 is great.
7800 bombproof mate👍
@@daveslater309 - After 9 speeds it became nothing more than marketing. I know that a pro can use 12 speeds but they were holding 30 mph in the Vuelta for awhile. You and I need nothing more than range. Not to say that component design hasn't improved but wouldn't it be nice to replace your 9 or 10 speed rear derailleur with a smoother shifting and more accurate one instead of being forced to replace an entire group with one where you shift through 4 gears to get to the gear you used to shift once for?
@@daveslater309 I get most of my kit through eBay. You do have to be careful as there are a few dodgy dealers about, but I have found that most cycling people are decent and honest. I recently picked up a couple of 7800 chain sets for a total of £120 and last week bought an immaculate ten speed campagnolo record chain set for £51, total bargain.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, I Love your videos on the engineering of bike components and thank you for the time and energy spent to create them. On a different note, does anymore know if there's been an attempt to collect data on the failure of the Shimano Dura Ace (and I assume Ultegra?) cranks. If so, does the data show consistent failures across the entire period of time these cranksets were manufactured? Or are the failures clustered around a relatively short period of their manufacturing run. I ask because I wonder if Shimano became aware of the problem and altered the manufacturing process (different bonding material, different bonding protocols...) without any public fanfare to avoid responsibility and public backlash for the poorer performing cranks.
before i start the video i find myself drawn to ensuring that the volume button is at max
I believe if the Shimano crank is stiff enough for the pros it is stiff enough for me and anyone else.The Chinese brand ZRace makes a crank similar to the Rotor (but rings are separate pieces) but has triple hollow drilled areas like the Rotor for less than $100. Reasonably high too. Works great on my indoor bike.
Pros ride what they are given. Trust me they would have different components, wheels, hubs, and crankset if they didnt have shimano as sponsor
And most things are dispossable, they just put new things every time they have issues. Worst case scenario is they use it for a season. Amateurs rely on longevity and quality products
Stiffness is great for Shimano until they fall apart
@@svencobaya82 eh, maybe wheels. As a SRAM die hard, Shimano cranks certainly shift better. Their hubs are also very good but their rims aren't very fast. As for shifter choice, that's all personal preference and many people choose Shimano anyway even though I wouldn't
Pros mostly not able to choose components what they like.. they ride stuffs which are came from sponsors..
I would say Hambini do a bit more research of the Rotor cranks and the interchangeability you did miss a few things out - but as usual a great review and technical information - these are far much better than the Shimano......
so far im on my 4th set of Rotor cranks to the collection of my bikes - the 2inpower cranks are great with the ability to change out the spiders - 1 pair of the 3d - 24mm cranks on a winter bike - 1 pair of RRaptor on a jump bike and some Kaptic Carbon on my Yeti , these weight for weight are very close to the THM but are half the price...so far no failures over the 8 years - only problem is the alloy 30mm axle that does wear but this was on my Rraptor cranks with some bad PF4130 BB's - I have changed this over to the RaceFace Clinch 89/92 BB and so far so good on my road bike and my Yeti.
I have those rotor cranks, and I've been pretty disappointed with the stiffness (or lack thereof). I'm hoping to upgrade to the carbon aldhu arms to get a bit more stiffness.
The lack of stiffness is uncomfortable on hard uphill efforts, since the pedal rotates out of plane enough that my ankles are bent uncomfortably.
you sure its the crank and not the frameset? I find carbon frames after a few years of hard use lose their BB stiffness and do what you describe.
🤣Sorry, but that's just pretty damned funny. What PEDs are you on? Make sure your pedals are greased, tight and the cranks are torqued to spec! Make sure your bb shell isn't a creaky POS as well. Still chuckling here!
Back in the day, lots of big races were won on Vitus 'screwed and glued' aluminum frames. This was the noodliest frame in the peloton. Sean Kelly won lots of races on these frames besides others!
@@christopherrowley7601 yes, I've tried the cranks in several bikes and the result is the same. None of my bikes are of that type to be flexible, either stiff TT frames or stiff aluminum track frames.
@@rollinrat4850 lol no ped, just a big dude with a lot of watts. I've been riding long enough to know what I'm feeling. I understand that low wattage people might not be able to feel the same bend and stretch of various materials.
When I first installed the crank, I had about 400W FTP, and weighed 195lbs. You do some hard efforts up hills and you'll feel it.
@@galenkehler I ride a pretty old custom steel fixed gear 'cross bike. Most often on mtb trails or commuting in the mountains. It uses old Sugino square taper cranks. They dont seem to be what slows me down. It is what it is, but I don't measure power or anything. Been riding for decades and know my body without need of any devices. Used an HR meter once upon a time, but I'm not racing much any longer. This is how I normally train and ride most days. I wish to make it harder and painful. This is how I avoid boredom after riding so long. Devices really bore me. But I trained on fixed gear way back when I was a roadie too. Pedaling always is a wicked hard workout, but it's more fun than should be legal. The bicycle becomes a literal extension of my body since I'm connected to the drivetrain. Its a mind trip and sort of addicting.
All my riding buddies think I'm nuts, yet nobody will ever try riding my bike! I usually wait at the top of the hills, they wait at the bottom! I think descents are actually harder than most of the climbs due to pedaling always. There is little time to rest and I've always enjoyed climbing as much as descents. Its a very efficient workout, time wise. Rolling hills and trails are a real kick in the pants!
When I get on my derailleur bikes for those longer big mountain rides, it seems pretty darn easy! Fixed offroad is sorta like weight training or 'super slow' workouts. It also 'encourages' me to pedal round and smooth.
I actually like a little bit of give for comfort's sake and long rough rides. Some of the paved roads in Wackofornia are worse than dirt ones!
But mostly I just dig a simple bike that can take a ton of abuse, very little maintenance and remain reliable every day.
Anyone else observed when the 'hairdresser' is not around, the PEN IS not working?😉
'Bonding' does sound higher tech than 'gluing' doesn't it.
I can see a facsimile of Des Lynham hiding in the bottom right of the chainrings at ~ 16:43
I was expecting a right reaming here but he gave them compliments instead. I own the rotor 2inpower meter crankset and I don’t even know they are on the bike which is a good thing. I may invest more into rotor cranks going forward.
Any chance we will get a review of praxisworks (carbon) cranks?
The chain-ring is a cast. It's not machined that way.
Not sure what I've learned from this video. Perhaps Shimano 105 is the sweetspot for safety, performance, value and lifespan and anything Shimano above that is compromised too much by being too light. The Rotor stuff is well out of my price range and the marginal gains would be even more marginal with me.
Did hambini have a FSA crank set video uploaded at some point or did I make up a whole episode of my favorite show in my sleep??
I think its pronounced dura-arse
Given the price of Rotor cranks, is there any real benefit to upgrading from a 105 R7000 crankset?
Stiffness if you have enough power and weight. The rotor stuff is also available for any axle size and way more crank lengths.
Modularity is a big plus on the Rotor ALDHU. Say if you want to try out a different crankarm length or the spindle's worn out, these can be swapped out individually, no need for a new crankset altogether.
I've got a set of magene one piece chainrings here that are a one piece alloy.
So if mine's stiffer, I can crank it harder?
🤣😂
Leave it to your hairdresser, mate... Rgr
Hairstyle ..shades of spock 🖖🏼 .
I'm curious as to how the Trinity Drilling System actually goes about drilling the holes while remaining a single piece - do they drill through from the axle end or the pedal end. Are there any holes that get filled in the ends, and could those be weak points?
On the older 3D cranks there are two plugged holes at the pedal end. Maybe the last hole is at the axle side.
What a complicated cranckset
I'm riding rotor on mtb and road bike.. Almost no maintenance, I'm very rough on assembly and disassembly procedure, almost no cleaning even after the worst rides in rain and mud... No problem so far, after 20k kilometers... I didnt even changed the chainrings... Poor chains...
where's the scale of engineering excellence?
07:00 this disadvantage is a bit unfair because as you say it is a modular option and you could buy a classic 110 bcd spider with the option of changing the chainrings sungularly.
Hi Hambini: Rotor Aldhu carbon cranks are good quality too? Worth the money compared with Aldhu aluminium model? Thanks a lot!!
I’m testing them now. Feel/look cool but haven’t gotten any tangible comparative data yet. Will share when I do.
Dura an ace at falling apart
How bad did that Dura ace crank look? looks like its made out of polished shit.
Rotor Aldhu/Vegast 24 is a nightmare. I have two spindles with bad threads and during a casual ride a brand new Vegast crank arm fell off. It was one week old and I used a torque wrench. The quality is just horrible. Same for their web shop that sends mails with template placeholder and customer supper that promises replacement parts but never sends a return label, wants me to cut the crank in half. Do I own a machinery shop?! Ridiculous.