Camino Mozarabe, Stage 7 - Dona Mencia to Castro del Rio - 32 km hike with 484 m of ascent

Camino Mozarabe, Day Seven
Dona Mencia to Castro del Rio
Andalusia, Southern Spain
Today's walk consists of 19 miles from Dona Mencia to Castro del Rio via Baena, we were hoping it would be more interesting than the previous day.
We were again up early, leaving Hotel Mencia Subbetica in the cold and dark at 7.45am, then walking through Dona Mencia, having checked out the route the previous night. We managed to find breakfast at La Cueva do Pollo, leaving the cafe at 8.15am, before heading up the steep Calle Jaen in the direction of Baena. Once out of town, we had great views back over the town, with plenty of signs. At 8.45am we reached the top of the hill, 150m ascent, 30 mins from the bar. For a Sunday morning, there were quite a few farmers out, harvesting some of the olives.
We passed the small village of El -Zambudio (4.7 miles, 230m 2 hours 20mins), then the track heads round the corner, with views to Baena and a factory straight ahead. The best views were before this point. The sun was now burning through the mist. After the 1,090km marker post, we turned right onto the main road, (10.25am), then after 5 mins, turned left off the road along a track. We arrived at a very pretty plaza with fountains and information boards, going over a bridge, then up a steep hill, following the arrows into Baena. (6.5 miles, 276m ascent 3.5 hours,). We assumed that the route would go to the top of the town, and in hindsight were disappointed not to go to Constitution Square. The path goes to the right-hand side of the town instead.
The Camino from Granada/Almeria meets our route from Malaga at Plaza de Espana and Llano del Rincon. We thought there would be a special marker, but we didn't see one, but there is a roundabout with a nice statue of Don Joaquin. We stopped at Manana Cafe, for more toast, tomato and cheese, leaving at 11.45am. We were lucky to find bakery Sandra open on a Sunday morning. We lost the signs, but found them again at the Cooperative of Jesus Nazareno, which is next to a roundabout with 4 statues and sign 1,067km to Santiago (12.15pm). We turned left, heading up a busy road, after 20 minutes coming to a sign on the right to Canete de Las Torres, along the A3125. We were more than happy to follow this track, with more great views, until we joined a road with a bridge over the Guadajoz River (10.5 miles 6 hours 10 mins, 400m ascent). There is a very small old bridge to the left.
At the crossroads, there is a building that used to be a restaurant-shame it isn't now. Just ahead are the Caves of Cueva del Yeso, and some archaeological remains, which were shut when we were there.
We turned left down another road, (2.30pm) which follows the river for 12km, passing a nice picnic site. The road seemed endless, the day had really warmed up, we saw 2 cars in 2 hours, and passed a couple of large villas.
By 4.30pm we were still on the road, but the village of Castro del Rio was in sight.
We finally arrived at the beautiful castle and Church on top of the hill at 6.15pm. It is a very pretty town with plenty of narrow streets and great views. We checked into our accommodation of Casa del Peregrino, which has been built into the town walls. It is actually on 4 floors, with a well in the hall and a roof top terrace.
Information/Advice
We wandered around the town in the cold and dark, calling in any open bars to see if they were serving food, unfortunately not. Once again, the shops were shut. We were grateful to find a pizza take out open. So much for the Mediterranean diet, we hoped for something better the following night.
It was nice to return to walking along paths, instead of the previous day’s railway track. The views in the early morning mist, with many ranges of hills to Jaen in the far distance are some of the best views that you can have. We found ourselves very lucky to be in such a beautiful place. Baena was a lovely town, even though the camino doesn't go to the top of the hill to visit Constitutional Square, and the Castle. Again, the stages could have been broken down, allowing a stay here.
The afternoon walk was still pretty, but seemed endless, with many miles along a deserted road. However, the town of Castro del Rio more than makes up for it, with its very pretty old town, castle, churches, old walls and narrow streets.
We stayed in a most unusual apartment, built into the town walls, with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a kitchen/lounge, on 4 floors, with a roof terrace, all accessed with an iron spiral staircase. We have never stayed anywhere so unique.
Distance 20 miles (32 km)
Duration of Walk 10 Hours including breaks
Elevation Gained 1590 feet (484m)
Average pace 30 minutes per mile
Information/Advice
Bookings.com Casa del peregrino
www.andalucia.... caves, which we did not visit as they were closed.

[@simonhopkinson1815]

Looks an amazing walk guys. Plenty of signage by the looks of it. Was navigation easy? ATB Simon & Sue

[@hikingwithdaveandbarbara8629]

Hi Simon & Sue. It was a great walk but superceded by the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome which was on a different level in terms of old villages etc etc. Barbara has written a good blog on the Mozarabe and the Via Francigena on the web site www.hikinghwithdaveandbarbara.co.uk. What have you guys been up to ? Cheers Dave & Barbara

[@simonhopkinson1815]

@@hikingwithdaveandbarbara8629 Hi D&B. Thanks for the message. Both your walks look amazing. Did you do the walk you mentioned in Germany? I suspect not as its not appeared on your channel. We walked the Ridgeway national trail in early May. Our 6th national trail, so certificate wall space is starting to run low! 😄. We've also spent a fair chunk of time in Spain, hence our keen interest in your Spanish walk. ATB Simon & Sue.