3D Printed F1 Seamless Shifting Gearbox - Part 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Part 5 of the 3D Printed F1 Seamless Shifting Gearbox is focused on getting the steering wheel remote working with the gearbox (Using ESPNow), start of final assembly (hopefully), and preliminary shift testing.
#F1 #3dprinting #sequentialgearbox #paddleshift #ESP32 #arduino #motorsports #3dprints
Williams F1 Team has entered the chat.
Oh hey, share that GitHub link when you can. Thanks Claire.
LMAO too funny
You know, i don't even know anything about engines, let alone F1 engines, but seeing a project like this warms my heart. I'd love to see this in a gokart or something.. Good luck!
I’m drooling. Amazing build brotha
Impressive work!
Deez nuts 😂 !! 2:56 Great job keep it up !
How are you getting over 100k views and less than 100 likes!? This is phenomenal stuff.
And here’s me struggling with AIRFIX & REVELL 1/24 kits
Being a retired CAD designer, I can appreciate just how much work has gone into this
Well done Sir @INTERMEDIATE DESIGN
You're a legend! Can't wait for the next vid.
That is awesome. You did a really good job! It was very interesting to watch.
Great work. Looking forward to seeing how this project will develop in the future. Subbed
Awesome work!!! I’ve had some pretty good results with printing in PETG in the past. It’s a lot of work / elbow grease, but it is possible to sand down your prints and get a final surface finish that looks like it was printed on glass. I’ve used up to 1000 / 2000 wet/dry grit sandpaper for reference. Another trick I’ve learned since then is flame polishing. A small propane torch (like those used for plumbing) works great at flash melting the outer surface and quickly returns the gloss shine to sanded parts. The real trick is to not let the part heat up too much, which would cause the part to lose its rigidity and be easily deformed / warped until it cools back down. Once it cools down though, it regains it’s rigidity. I can try sending you a couple pics of what PETG looks like after being sanded to 2000 grit if you’re interested
Wow that was an absolute awesome work keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍👍
Absolutely fantastic work. What's a legend. Where are you at on your career path?
Thanks! I just do this for fun when I can. I'm on a bit of a mid-career pause due to some health challenges.
Nylon filled willed with glass bead is very strong. (PA12GB) and cheap to print by service bureaus . JawTech comes to mind. 2 week turn around. might want to give them a try.
Keep up the good work! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🔝
Enthusiast at first sight. Happy shifting!
My dood, you're a wizard.
If you get some primer and metallic spray paint and print in PLA+ I think you'd be really pleased.
I was thinking about trying that. I haven’t ever painted any of my 3D prints before.
Good suggestion. I've had good success with 3d printed parts and automotive primer. Spraying with plastidip makes for a nice finish too, for parts where close tolerance isn't an issue.
@@IndeterminateDesign I've just started with it. Cheap spray paint has been working fine. If you don't sand a lot you'll obviously still have lines. Also recommend polyurethane spray for a finish
You know what would be really cool, if you have a side by side video of a lap around Monaco or Suzuka and your gearbox doing the gear shifts at the same time as the real car.
That's a great idea! Thanks!
Keep up the good work. Subscribed.
Amazing work!
Thanks a lot!
Fantastic !!
Experiment with temperatures and cooling on the Silk Plus PLA. I've had good success printing *dry* PLA up to 265C. (though I usually print around 240C) So you should be able to get everything to stick.
Thanks for the tip, I've only been printing at 230C.
First I want to say this is pretty fantastic. The complexity and precision for this is amazing. Have a couple of questions. You mentioned somewhere you didn't have any load on the output, and that was causing some friction problems - could you drive a small fan on it for some load? Are there any designs or thoughts about tying the shift barrels together so you only have to deal w/ one stepper motor? A fantastic addition to this would be a scale engine!
Thank you! As for load, adding a fan would work. It works pretty well right now as long as I sand off the rough spots on the top faces of the dog teeth (an artifact from 3D printing). You can't tie the shift barrels together because they need to move independently at different times. For example to shift from 1->2. First the right barrel disengages 1st gear. Then the left barrel then engages 2nd. The real gearbox will phase these changes, meaning when 1st gear is 60% disengaged it will begin engaging 2nd gear.
Beautiful job! Regarding delamination -- are you sure you have your extrusion calibrated for flowrate and temperature? There's a chance your extruder clamping is different enough between PLA and silk PLA that the actual volume/step is different enough to underfill your prints. (Happens with ABS vs PLA, for example.)
As far as multiplexed digits -- the brightness is usually a function of duty cycle -- you need to hit each LED segment with extra-high current during the on time while making sure to meet the average current limit and ensure that you don't have excess current if/when refreshing halts (or you burn up the LED).... Hopefully, your i2c drivers arrive soon and works and you don't have to worry...
Thanks. I have a dual gear direct drive and I did notice I had to increase the tension similar to PETG. The silk behaves so strangely, I have to use really low retraction. I hope the I2C displays work as well.
Increase the perimeters to 5 layers, it helps a lot with the strength
It looks like having a motor killswitch would be a good idea since it stalls sometimes in testing and damages hardware. Perhaps add a button on the wheel or pull both paddles to kill the motor in an emergency?
That’s a great idea, I actually didn’t know what I was going to do with the 2nd button but that’s perfect.
Pretty close to a thousand subs already! Any plans for a special project or video when you hit that milestone?
I can’t believe how fast it took off. A special project for 1k subs is a great idea. I’ll start thinking about what I can do. Thanks!
i do really like :D
Yay github and prequel 👍
Know what the scale is of the printed gb compared to a real one?
It’s actually full scale. It’s amazing how much power F1 engineers get through something so small.
😯 Thats crazy!
Hats off! I was wondering how you do these electronics, codes, mechanical engineering at the same time?
Thanks! I just grew up in an amazing environment working on projects like this. I get bored easily doing something I already know how to do.
Dude you are awesome !! It would be really nice if you could share how you designed it you from thought process to modelling in fusion 360 there isn't much tutorial in working assembly for fusion 360
Thanks! I will definitely include that in my prequel video. The assembly process is something I did not get right. I have many lessons learned.
Stupid suggestion for the dog teeth: why not just make them as some sort of dowels printed in optimal layer direction that you could then insert into the larger gear orthogonally. That way de-laminating wouldn't be an issue anymore.
That’s a great idea. I’ll have to play around with that and see what I can do. Thanks!
Wow amazing work well done, What 3D printer are you using? it seems to be great quality
It’s a heavily modified Creality Ender 3. I think a stock one could manage this as well with some tuning.
Unfortunately no one plastic filament will be abble to handle high power and torque. Maybe 2-3hp. The teeths will to break very soon if you build in a GoKart or in a small car and your weight is to much for plastic. You can try to print with 100% infill, but then gonna be very heavy and still break after a time, because get warm,get soft and bum. I'm sure if you using plastic for gears is a death project.
This is just a model. I may trying to print it out of higher performing plastics later for fun. Just a fun thought experiment, but I think with a different gear design, bigger bearings and something like PC/CF or PEEK CF30 it would hold enough torque to use in a shifter Kart.
Why don't you try printing with some nylon filament? Nylon has low friction and good strength. I've printed with carbon fiber filled nylon and the strength is amazing. But I did go to 250°C for the nozzle and 90°C for the glass print bed with glue on it. Absolutely no issues with layer adhesion. Because of the abrasive fiber content I am using a ruby nozzle from China. Of course the carbon fiber makes it very high friction and not suited for this application but pure nylon should be good. And you may need something to dry the nylon filament or a well controlled oven in your kitchen. I have practically zero warping of parts. But maybe that is due to the carbon fiber, I don't know. I used eSun filament and I'm very happy with the performance and print quality.
Another option would be to print with this strong CF nylon material and cover the gear teeth with glue or something to make them low friction where needed.
I have thought about someday printing the gearbox out of stronger materials like nylon. I think a lot of the tolerances would need to be tweaked. That’s interesting with the carbon filled nylon having higher friction. I was wondering that, I bough some glass and carbon filled nylon to try out for gears.
Awesome build! Any idea how much power might be able to go through this 3dprinted GB? You think it could power a go kart? 🤓🤣
I don't think it would take much power in it's current form. Certainly with some changes to the design and CNC'd out of a metal or 3D printed out of stronger materials it might stand a chance in a go cart.
@@IndeterminateDesign looking forward to seeing what the community tries out once you release the designs. Keep up the hard work!
esp is an overkill for the steering wheel
Agreed, but it was cheap and I needed the extra IOs to control the led shift indicator. It's unbelievable how much computing power you can get for next to nothing now.
Just do an entire car next lol
I'm going to need a bigger printer.
My god..what do you do for a living land Rovers on Mars?
Thanks. I wish I was that smart to get to work on rovers. I’m too much of a generalist to get that good at any one thing.
Send me one of your gears, I'll print it in a high temp high strength resin and mail it back to you.
Appreciate the offer. I’m still making some changes. I think changes would have to be made to print it out in SLA. Right now the tolerances are dialed in for my current printer.
@@IndeterminateDesign Ok. If you change your mind, let me know, happy to do it. This is a pretty awesome project. If you share the SLDPRT, then I can convert to STL locally, which should give me correct dimensions.
@@jeffjohnson3099 Stl is is really low quality file. The cylinders not gonna be round etc..