You must rebuild that engine from the split case halves, out. The main bearing is not to move at all. It can't be shimmed so it won't move as it is. Your bearing moves when it's not supposed to. Have it rebuilt.
Case is split and parts robbed for the next build. This particular case was too far gone to be reused. I will make a coffee table (or something) out of it.
Hi Lee, I have just stripped an engine where dowel was missing in main bearing seat. Thus bearing wir casing down. Resultant issue I now have a 2 part crank. Broke in the middle unless this happened due to another issue. Not too sure. Will have to have case line bored to fix. Been having to rebuild a couple of these and each has it's own malady to say the least. The last engine I stripped I'm sure Arads would have field day. Oil was like crude oil. Obviously never serviced till it cooked itself. The joys..........
its been linebored 040. thrust cut 040 it can be linebored again but check for crackes under oil cooler mount and below #3 cylinder because you can see the #1 main bearing walking like a dog.
End play is checked with the flywheel in place and torqued down the play without it installed is normal. If you still have excessive end play with the flywheel and shims installed cases need to be machined and new bearings installed. .003 to .005 thousands is good end play shim to achieve this if the flywheel pinches the bearing and won't rotate and you still have to much end play the bearing is shifting in the case and machining is the only way to fix that I know of.
you can not check the endplay like that. of course it will move. to check it properly you must have the flywheel installed and properly torqued to spec. then check the endplay.
I have the same problem and I have a single port for my Volkswagen beetle 1 mechanic I was talking to I need to rebuild the whole motor said that he could not replace the shims without tearing the motor open I'm beginning to think you is lying can you tell me please
B D, he is not telling you the truth. The shims, of which there must always be 3, no more, no less, are a easy installation. They fit between the rear main bearing shoulder and flywheel. Remove the engine, measure the axial movement of the crankshaft by first pushing it in, then pulling it back out. The resulting movement is the end play. Some claim the end play of a worn engine should never be adjusted. I haven't noticed any detrimental effect/s in more that 50 years of working on these air cooled engines, and I'm a qualified VW mechanic. Your rear bearing appears to be moving rather freely. That is almost certainly indication of excessive clearance between main bearing bore and the bearing.
Your motor has been line bored 040 and thrust cut 040. You can go up to 080 on both so it can still be rebored. You'll need to have the crank reground at the same time. There are no short cuts or easy options! This vid is 4 years old so I'll assume you've done something!
Mike Hammer, I put a new seal in and drove it until it went. And I got another year out of it! I knew the engine case was about shot so I gave it an endurance test. Never got too far from home... I could really feel it going during the last few weeks - clutch issues and vibrations. So now it’s been parked for about four months or so and I have a used case and heads I’m going to build for it soon.
another thing if you cant aford to rebuild I saw charlie take a cold chisle backwards and me and Joe held the engine on its fan belt pulley nut on a block and charlie hit the main on those half round indentions and that stuck the main back where it belonged thats not a good way to fix it but it workes then put back the same shims it will also ruin any chance of lineboring it again. good luck on the 70. RAMBUS.
looks like theres no shims in there,you are prying on the bearing,i dunno what that warped ,clear plastic thing is in there,but it needs taken out reshimmed and new seal new oil,start.......start with 3 shims.
You must rebuild that engine from the split case halves, out. The main bearing is not to move at all. It can't be shimmed so it won't move as it is. Your bearing moves when it's not supposed to. Have it rebuilt.
Case is split and parts robbed for the next build. This particular case was too far gone to be reused. I will make a coffee table (or something) out of it.
Hi Lee, I have just stripped an engine where dowel was missing in main bearing seat. Thus bearing wir casing down. Resultant issue I now have a 2 part crank. Broke in the middle unless this happened due to another issue. Not too sure. Will have to have case line bored to fix. Been having to rebuild a couple of these and each has it's own malady to say the least. The last engine I stripped I'm sure Arads would have field day. Oil was like crude oil. Obviously never serviced till it cooked itself. The joys..........
Check endplay with flywheel on it. If you add shims might mess up distributer gear forcing things forward
its been linebored 040. thrust cut 040 it can be linebored again but check for crackes under oil cooler mount and below #3 cylinder because you can see the #1 main bearing walking like a dog.
End play is checked with the flywheel in place and torqued down the play without it installed is normal. If you still have excessive end play with the flywheel and shims installed cases need to be machined and new bearings installed. .003 to .005 thousands is good end play shim to achieve this if the flywheel pinches the bearing and won't rotate and you still have to much end play the bearing is shifting in the case and machining is the only way to fix that I know of.
you can not check the endplay like that. of course it will move. to check it properly you must have the flywheel installed and properly torqued to spec. then check the endplay.
You're correct but I'm obviously not measuring the endplay here - rather just showing how excessive it had become.
I have the same problem and I have a single port for my Volkswagen beetle 1 mechanic I was talking to I need to rebuild the whole motor said that he could not replace the shims without tearing the motor open I'm beginning to think you is lying can you tell me please
B D, he is not telling you the truth. The shims, of which there must always be 3, no more, no less, are a easy installation. They fit between the rear main bearing shoulder and flywheel. Remove the engine, measure the axial movement of the crankshaft by first pushing it in, then pulling it back out. The resulting movement is the end play. Some claim the end play of a worn engine should never be adjusted. I haven't noticed any detrimental effect/s in more that 50 years of working on these air cooled engines, and I'm a qualified VW mechanic.
Your rear bearing appears to be moving rather freely. That is almost certainly indication of excessive clearance between main bearing bore and the bearing.
Your motor has been line bored 040 and thrust cut 040. You can go up to 080 on both so it can still be rebored. You'll need to have the crank reground at the same time. There are no short cuts or easy options! This vid is 4 years old so I'll assume you've done something!
Lee, what did you finally do, rebuild or just replace the seal and drive it? 🤔
Mike Hammer, I put a new seal in and drove it until it went. And I got another year out of it! I knew the engine case was about shot so I gave it an endurance test. Never got too far from home... I could really feel it going during the last few weeks - clutch issues and vibrations. So now it’s been parked for about four months or so and I have a used case and heads I’m going to build for it soon.
Mike Hammer I should also say that the motor went - not the replacement main seal. Oil stayed in but the motor just got so bad that I parked it.
another thing if you cant aford to rebuild I saw charlie take a cold chisle backwards and me and Joe held the engine on its fan belt pulley nut on a block and charlie hit the main on those half round indentions and that stuck the main back where it belonged thats not a good way to fix it but it workes then put back the same shims it will also ruin any chance of lineboring it again. good luck on the 70. RAMBUS.
Yikes!
looks like theres no shims in there,you are prying on the bearing,i dunno what that warped ,clear plastic thing is in there,but it needs taken out reshimmed and new seal new oil,start.......start with 3 shims.
Sell your Mercedes ,then you got enough to have it rebuilt,
Still have the '79 300SD but thinking of parting it out as it's not worth the cost of fixing everything it needs.