Thank you for fighting against the most dangerous phrase in the English language - "we've always done it this way"! I appreciate your videos not because I share your trade or ever hope to do any of this myself, but because the way your handle yourself within your trade is the way I hope to handle myself in mine, thoughtfully and with integrity. Cheers!
As a building inspector, it’s nice to see a builder go above and beyond, over build a little, and provide the attention to detail as you do. The vast majority of builders I see, build to the minimum code and as quickly and inexpensively as possible. You sir, must sleep well at night. Kudos! Love your channel, and your work.
This is so important, not only for new construction but for renovation as well. Back in '97 I (as a relative novice) took on the job of raising my 1922 house 4.5 feet and, after cutting the old pony walls off the main floor structure, filled in with new framing to essentially add a story to the house. This was on Vancouver Island, another area just waiting for the "big one", so I did my research. Had to drill for approved anchor bolts into the old foundation and went above what code then required to place metal connectors between the mud sill and the new studs as well as connecting those studs to the existing house framing above. Was it a lot of work? Yes. But it's best practice, especially if you and your young family are going to be living there. Attention to detail takes time but in the end saves time and, in the worst case, lives.
Man I love your thoroughness in explaining things. People just make time lapse videos and don’t go over these important details! This knowledge is like charity and you will receive credit for any builder that used your teachings!
Did anyone else notice the job site was clean, no wooden forms from the earlier pour, no broken or leftover concrete blocks laying around in the way. big thumbs up!
Scott is a marketing genius. By doing this series on the house build and focusing on quality work, and explaining why its important, and creating an audience that already wants to buy his house, he'll sell it probably before its even finished !! Great job and hope to see you build more houses.
you are right on about the hold down locations. As a framer, the contractors i work for prefer to have the masons set the hold downs and j bolts during grout; and it never fails that on every house there's a j bolt in the middle of a doorway or hold downs under a window where they are useless; i have to spend hours cutting steel and drilling holes in concrete and epoxying new bolts in, and more than would be necessary if it had been done right to start with. Excellent content, thank you for your level of detail and precision. God Bless
I also noticed excessively irregularities in the placement of the CMU. Shouldn't the vented CMU been the same width to ensure the same structural support? Maybe they could have doubled it with mesh in between.
Yes I agree. I realize some of this block will be below grade and the inside will just be a crawl space but this block laying is pretty rough. I bet if this guy layed his own block, it wouldn't look like this.
I was going to ask as well, seeing those shadows on blocks that protrude especially on that odd angle'd portion of the wall. Is that imperfection in block, meaning the block was set flat on the outside but was casted a bit extra wide? Or are these blocks we see that stick one way or another actually blocks that were laid too wet and they slowly moved out of plane?
I wish my teachers were this good,this gentlemen is a good mc,teacher,very clear and knowledgeable.Thanks for all the videos,big Shout out from Texas!!
As a structural engineer, this video hit home. Nothing here was new information for me, but it's always a pleasure to see you describe the process with all of its nuances in such an eloquent way that I could only dream of.
Man, I remember back when I did modular home installs, the boss would give the plans to the mason and the mason would place the bolts (We don't need hold downs here) where he assumed the plans wanted them. They were NEVER 100% - to no fault of the mason either. The boss always pre-ordered the homes and had them delivered near the sites, so we talked him into letting us spend a day on the site when the mason was there just to measure the first floor "boxes" as we called them, and marking where to put the bolts. And, how much thread to leave exposed. Modulars are different, you lag the house to through a double box beam into the sill plate, so having the nuts above the sill by much meant we had to remove them, counter sink the sill and reinstall them, and THEN cut the excess of with a torch or grinder. So much easier after we started marking the locations and lengths ourselves. no more floor joists being shifted to accommodate a poorly placed bolt.
Don't let this guy scare you away from building a house. It can be done. It's not easy and yes he is correct but there is lots of ways to do it and it's not as complicated as it sounds in these videos. However these are great videos and thank you for taking the time to make them.
Does the garage roof ridge terminate behind the main house rake edge? By the photo at 8:34 it would seem like a tough/impossible detail to keep water tight. It looks like the water running down the roadside face of the garage roof would run into the soffit underneath the main house rake edge. Hopefully I'm not seeing that correctly. Love the channel. Keep cranking out great content.
There is no question of this. When I was out of high school I worked for a framer on custom homes. I never saw this level of detail and quality. For my career I chose commercial construction. The level of quality is on par, if not better than what is expected in commercial construction.
Avid EC fan, love this channel! Scott and Nate I know you are incredibly busy with this project, so I’ll throw this question out for anyone: I was curious why the hold-downs appear to be mild steel? When I built my home here in Alaska we had to use galvanized hold-downs. Unlike the rebar, it does contact both pressure-treated lumber and air. And perhaps they are galvanized and just looked non in the video. remember to take days off here and there guys! Makes every other day so much more productive:)
You just get it! As an engineer it's frustrating when someone (architect, contractor etc) assumes anyone can be as accurate as you need to be (on drawings) with items like these hold downs. Most of the minute layout of these needs to be done on site. No blame (when it's not required) just getting on with the job as required and understanding every disciplines limitations. You'd be a dream to work with.
As I mentioned, we just poured our concrete foundation (footings and lower level basement walls) and my concrete crew didn't use those. They DID use the anchor bolts stuck into the wet mix at the top of the walls. Maybe it's because we don't have the earthquake potential. Or maybe that's all building code requires in this area. I hope they didn't leave anything out that's important.I included that part in my latest video of our building project series. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS BY THE WAY.
Magnum probably both. The country is separated into seismic zones in the code book based on probability of earthquakes. The codes in any given area are based on that data. Certain zones are much more relaxed, others require certain elements be designed by structural engineers to resist earthquakes.
As a carpenter in New Zealand, I find this channel super interesting, in how different countries use differing techniques to achieve the same thing. For example, over home our hold down fixings are drilled into the concrete after and chemset if their is a ring foundation like this one, or using screw in concrete anchors on a slab. The difference being there are a lot more as the centre spacing is greatly reduced. 900mm is common.
When I was still working and training apprentice's I would always tell them that there is always enough time to do it the second time so just do it right the first time and you just saved time...
Hi - great videos - why not consider cutting all of the sill boards and lay them along the top of the stem walls / layout the vertical framing locations then drill the holes for the hold downs and for the sill bolt locations / this way everything will work and your vertical framing layout will already be done. I am going to build a new home in Sedona and am trying to work through some of the tricky bits.....is this possible?
This is just what I needed today I was at my uncles house today helping him build his shop. We were using ICFs, There were six men about twelve feet high on scaffolding it was the last wall and there was only about three yards of concrete left. When suddenly the entire wall fell one of the men was trapped we spent about 3-5 miniutes rescueing him we had to use saw all’s and crowbars and we used the pump truck as a crane to pull him out he ended up with a broken arm a brocken wrist collapsed lung and a major gash down his arm
Not only am I enjoying the videos, it's a joy reading the comments. Of course you'll always get the snarky comments, but most here are very appreciative and they're a pleasure to read.
@phuc ewe id say this is it. Blocks have no formwork to worry about but are not as strong in bending. The retaining wall likely needed higher bending strength as it is pushed over by all that soil (in the 'out of plane' direction). The block walls are held at the bottom by the footing and at the top by the floor so dont bend anywhere near as much out of plane.
@Kurt Miller because it was cheaper? I know where I'm from you multiply the cost of a wall by up to 5 if using poured walls, as opposed to precast or CMU. Might be different in the US.
Here in Oregon, where we live, poured stem walls are more cost effective and easier to waterproof below grade. I think the boss man was paying omage (sp?) to the craftspeople in Arizona who are masters in block walls. You can tell in the previous Arizona videos he has a huge amount of respect for those guys. The split face is also a historic look which will compliment this farmhouse style. Although I wanted to see poured stem walls , good on him for trying something different.
Scott was very complementary about the masons in the previous video. So I am surprised to see that in this video the blockwork looks pretty rough in places.
Split face can vary in thickness some. They make the side that shows look good. And the block that's getting buried doesn't get a ton of attention either. No sense in dumping extra labor into making something pretty that gets back filled.
The future home owners are going to have a step by step video series showing how their house was built. They can go back and see, “oh, that’s where the wall ends under our floor.” Or, “yes, you can see the anchors were placed there so don’t drill into that part of the wall to hang a planter.” Or something like that. That to me is well worth paying extra for.
Where I live and work the general consensus on crawl space vents is not to have any. A better option is to seal the crawl space and condition it as you would the living area. Vented spaces are an invitation to moisture and premature wood rot, not to mention mold and fungus growing under the floor.
It may depend on local conditions. Oregon is rather well known for its high rainfall, so it's unlikely you'll keep moisture from leeching up out of the dirt...so ventilating it makes sense in this situation. If you have a dry climate, I'm guessing it's probably less of an issue.
While bringing a crawlspace into the conditioned space is pretty much a must-have for regions with humid summers and air-conditioned interiors, it's not done much in Oregon because our summers aren't very humid. The risk of condensation on undersides of floor framing is, historically, very low here and thus the added cost of enclosing the crawlspace isn't seen as a good value.
Smart idea having a framer come in before you place hold downs. As a prior carpenter I'm pretty used to notching out studs and it's a pain and looks awful. Would it be a good POA to pre mark top and bottom plates while placing tie-downs?
worked on a project where none of the anchors lined up remotely close to where the plate would eventually sit. Some were crooked, some were completely missed, and some were just dropped too far. Also because the foundation wasn't square to begin with, but you do what you gotta do. Total gongshow of a site. And then the prefabbed walls that arrived, holy shit were they a nightmare.
In my opinion, blue prints, along with as build drawings and inspectors, are contractor best friends. A good guide, a record and an extra pair of eyes will help to safe from mistakes and wrong doing on time to amend them. Just keep them as close as possible. Another excellent video including passages that manuals just don't tell.
So many of the points made are unspoken or "automatic"for a good builder. As an onlooker it seems overwhelming the volume of factors that go into decision making in a building project. This complexity is one of the reasons for the skills gap and the high labor rate in USA today. Of course this is all my opinion and nothing else, but it takes a lot to do well in a particular field. Really appreciate all that EC communicates and how well they do so. Thanks much
I was thinking the same thing. It boggles the mind how anyone could keep track of all this stuff. I wonder if the architect draws the house, then the foundation to hold it, then adds the hold-downs to join the two, making sure that they are located in stud-cavities. Kind of makes sense if you work somewhat backwards that way. In the end, all their training and decision making is well worth the money spent.
@@MikeBramm I have little doubt that whatever design software the architect uses when laying out the house automates a lot of the process (like automatically locating the hold-downs, stud locations, etc.)
We are closing 8n a 15 acre organic farm. And the old house needs an Addition. So I have been watching your show for about 1 month or 2. And thanks for the deep explanations. And not I my the right way. But giving the suggestions along with the "code" to me its not just the acceptable way... But the RIGHT WAY.. Thank you sir. And may the Lord Bless you and your family.... Happy Sabbath.
Your Knowledge is amazing. I love the way you explain . Plain & simple. In the same mold as Larry haun. I'd say Scott your the Best I've seen on You tube. From England. UK .
About 11 years ago I did a foundation in Olympia Washington. Any time there was a conflict between the prints and application I was on the phone to the architect that did the design. More often than not he would come to the work site, make the appropriate clarifications and/or changes needed. Then I would have him write it out on MY copy of the prints, sign and date it. At first i could tell he was irritated with me, but by the end of the job we got along quite well. I think it is important to realize that to be human is to err and by calling him about some issues he had the opportunity to fix any discrepancies that were in the design. I know I’ve made my share of oppsies. That’s really the reason inspectors exist.
Olympic Outdoors Dad the house is on W Bay Dr, just up the hill west of 4th Ave bridge. It is a Mediterranean style house with a red roof. I would stop at Dancing Goats on chilly wet mornings for a cup of coffee. 👍🏼
Nah I think they exist because there's to many sue happen retards. That's why there are so many dumb law's some of those things should be common sense. But if somebody want's to build something how he wants than he should be able too but not hurt anyone else.
I'm convinced there is no programming on my overpriced cable service as good as watching an Essential Craftsman, or old Larry Haun video. May sound silly, but it's makes me proud to have guys like this building in our country.
Y’all worry about the shakes and thus bolt it down. We worry about the wind and thus bolt it down, put up similar sheer walls, and then lots of hurricane straps. Let’s all pray we never need any of them.
Indeed. I'm building a spec house and I now realize I should have just bought some stock in Simpson. Probably going to be a better return than the house!
Using something like a Titen HD screw anchor lets you place the fasteners when putting up the walls. Drilling holes in concrete is quick with a rotary hammer.
Yup - the framer should always do the anchor bolts!!! Bar none! Just got done seismically retrofitting my original 1923 bungalow home via installing both the SST UFRP foundation plates between sill and old concrete foundation in the larger area of the house and drilling in 5/8"x10" wedge anchors through the sill down into the concrete walls in the back end! Will do a few shear panels over the cripple walls in the back end and will be done. Am actually using more stringent 2nd floor seismic codes on the first floor for overkill. Who knows, the extra might come in handier during the big one down here! Funny thing is that damn house was never attached to the foundation at all - guess that was common back here in 23'!
Hey brother. Love your vids. I’m a building contractor in Orlando. Been doing it for 35 years. You do things the way I do it. It’s imperative that this part is done right. Have one issue. The masons did a terrible job on the block work. I know brick will cover. But still☹️
The content on this channel is insane. The production is awesome, the topics are interesting, and the delivery makes me feel like I could do it. Do audio books already
Just a quick question, hope you can answer. Instead of laying tie down threaded set anchors in the grout, can you install them later on with chemical fix, drilled through the sole plate? Only asking as it may be easier set at a later date in the build. Thanks
Epoxy installed anchors have significant limitations imposed on them by code agencies (ACI, MSJC & ICC-ES). I don't think any manufacturers currently have any epoxy products approved for tension applications in tops of CMU walls. The side distance is often just too small. You get side-face blow-out failures at too low tension loads for them to be practical in most cases. Sometimes epoxy can be a viable 'fix' if a cast-in-place anchor was mis-located, but generally only if the tension demand on the holdown was already very low.
Always handy to throw some painters tape over the threads before you pour, to avoid hardened mud in your hold-down threads. Can save a lot of headache. I've done all sorts of Simpson hold-down systems. In low-rise construction, the seismic hold down plans are crazy through.
Those anchor bolts created a lot of stress for me with my new shop. I measured and measured and checked and rechecked before the stem walls were poured. And then I found out I didn't put enough king studs on the window openings but the anchor bolts were already in. So I shrank my window ROs. Not what I wanted but it's fine. Well, I think it is, as I still haven't had a framing inspection!
The block work is not pretty but I have no doubt that its not going anywhere once filled. Maybe I can purchase this house for a slight discount now? Haha. Easy to fix it now with a texture before the house build resumes and block is back filled. But I just seen in the finish shot that no blockwork is really visible on this build. Great content so far.
for a framer who layed all the blocks he did actually pretty good! EC mentioned in the last video that the dude never layed block in a very long time, he was just framing houses and took this job for fun, scott and nate shoulda layed the blocks themselves, im sure with their skill level they coulda done it no problem and just as fast.
So the wet set bolts are for the sill plates. The templated bolts will be fastened to vertical framing? Do they get attached to joists or do you run your king studs down to the sill?
I framed on a large custom home in lake Havasu city AZ a few years ago. The bottom story was mostly RV garage space, 16’ high if I remember right. The little bit of wall on either side of the garage doors was Simpson strong wall I think it was called, basically just a steel wall section about two feet wide that gets anchored using those long “s” anchors to provide good shear strength with such a narrow wall, like a moment frame. Anyways one of the anchors was wrong and needed to be moved and it looked like a nightmare, haha, my boss had the general contractor fix it and I think he got the concrete crew to come back out. It was indeed expensive for somebody I’m sure.
Would it be more efficient to lay out plates first? Seems a better way to ensure you don't run into a stud. If you could keep plates dry and straight until you need them.
Have a question about the masons and the finish on the blocks. I noticed a couple of shadows between the rows and it looked like the blocks deviated a little bit from center. What are the tolerances that are acceptable for a masonry wall finish?
Intwrsting how different Oregon is from Utah. We pour our stem wall in concrete and the hold downs are always in place by the foundation wall guy. 30"oc.... no matter what. And we just have to deal with it when framing.
As a structural engineer I have to say that everything you said is 100% correct. When contractors don't do what your video explained, we have problems and headaches that we have to spend hours dealing with and coming up with fixes. Every issue you explained I have run into one time or another. The attitude and consideration from the contractors and all the sub-trades makes all the difference in the world. I just wish there were more contractors like you. You are a very professional contractor.
@@billypilgrim7838 Well that is pretty much a troll comment. It is also ironic that you are using technology developed by engineers to make the comment.
I used a different brand of h 2.5 clips, the plans said Simpson or equal, the inspector wanted documentation they were equal to Simpson. Never used an off brand of framing hardware again!
I know everyone likes to give pats on the back, and words of encouragement, but I must say.. the brick mason really could had gotten the blocks straighter and did a better job on the mortar. I'm quite sure they knew this was getting videoed. The vent block had mortar globbed up in it and the above/below alignment was bad. Even if it's in the crawlspace it matters. This was shortcutted badly I'm sorry to say.
Your videos are realy good and interesting especially the ones abought forgingbut i like the others as well. Ihave seen thevi deo where you introduced your large gas forge. I like the design the ribbon burners and the possibility to lift it up and enlarge it with just putting some bricks under it. Have you thought about building a insolatet divider wich you put in the middle of the forge, so that you culd use the forge with only one Burner efficient for smaller projekts, or you could both parts with different temperatures. What do you think about putting a high temperatur thermometer in in every half of the Forge than you would know the exact Temp inside the forge, if you ad a Thermostat like in modern gasheating systems you could use the forge like a hardening oven.Greetings from Germany and sorry for my bad english.
The other important thing that tie downs accomplish when you’re building a house like this … is that they build suspense for the grout pour! Pour the grout! Pour the grout!
The person who ends up buying this house is very lucky and will have a trouble free home for life. I love your attention to detail.
Only way to build. Get it right the first time so it's for all time.
I would consider moving to Oregon to purchase this home...
There should rightfully be a bidding war for this house. Great video series.
If I had 1/2 million people watching me build a house, I'd pay a lot of attention to detail too... lol
Bless this man...
@@timfalardeau9753 lol - you have a point but I reckon Scott would do it just the same without the audience
Thank you for fighting against the most dangerous phrase in the English language - "we've always done it this way"! I appreciate your videos not because I share your trade or ever hope to do any of this myself, but because the way your handle yourself within your trade is the way I hope to handle myself in mine, thoughtfully and with integrity. Cheers!
I could watch this man talk about concrete and concrete accessories all day long!
Hank hill joke there
yep, I tell you hwat.
...my 2nd love is concrete and concrete accessories...
Nate, I love how you're using the arrows to point out things Scott is talking about, good job.
YES! super job. building the hose is one thing.....putting the videos is much, much more
As a building inspector, it’s nice to see a builder go above and beyond, over build a little, and provide the attention to detail as you do. The vast majority of builders I see, build to the minimum code and as quickly and inexpensively as possible. You sir, must sleep well at night. Kudos! Love your channel, and your work.
This is so important, not only for new construction but for renovation as well. Back in '97 I (as a relative novice) took on the job of raising my 1922 house 4.5 feet and, after cutting the old pony walls off the main floor structure, filled in with new framing to essentially add a story to the house. This was on Vancouver Island, another area just waiting for the "big one", so I did my research. Had to drill for approved anchor bolts into the old foundation and went above what code then required to place metal connectors between the mud sill and the new studs as well as connecting those studs to the existing house framing above. Was it a lot of work? Yes. But it's best practice, especially if you and your young family are going to be living there. Attention to detail takes time but in the end saves time and, in the worst case, lives.
Man I love your thoroughness in explaining things. People just make time lapse videos and don’t go over these important details!
This knowledge is like charity and you will receive credit for any builder that used your teachings!
Did anyone else notice the job site was clean, no wooden forms from the earlier pour, no broken or leftover concrete blocks laying around in the way. big thumbs up!
The arrows and other video enhancements you are using Nate to help explain the process are really helpful.
Thanks man.
Scott is a marketing genius. By doing this series on the house build and focusing on quality work, and explaining why its important, and creating an audience that already wants to buy his house, he'll sell it probably before its even finished !! Great job and hope to see you build more houses.
you are right on about the hold down locations. As a framer, the contractors i work for prefer to have the masons set the hold downs and j bolts during grout; and it never fails that on every house there's a j bolt in the middle of a doorway or hold downs under a window where they are useless; i have to spend hours cutting steel and drilling holes in concrete and epoxying new bolts in, and more than would be necessary if it had been done right to start with. Excellent content, thank you for your level of detail and precision.
God Bless
roger mathews called passing the buck
Man, the bright sun casting shadows is absolutely unforgiving to any imperfections in the laid block, wow !
I also noticed excessively irregularities in the placement of the CMU. Shouldn't the vented CMU been the same width to ensure the same structural support? Maybe they could have doubled it with mesh in between.
Yes I agree. I realize some of this block will be below grade and the inside will just be a crawl space but this block laying is pretty rough. I bet if this guy layed his own block, it wouldn't look like this.
I also noticed this.
I was going to ask as well, seeing those shadows on blocks that protrude especially on that odd angle'd portion of the wall. Is that imperfection in block, meaning the block was set flat on the outside but was casted a bit extra wide? Or are these blocks we see that stick one way or another actually blocks that were laid too wet and they slowly moved out of plane?
I was scrolling down to see if anyone else commented on this. Didn't get far
Your attention to detail is incredible. You miss nothing. I would love to build with you.
I wish my teachers were this good,this gentlemen is a good mc,teacher,very clear and knowledgeable.Thanks for all the videos,big Shout out from Texas!!
As a structural engineer, this video hit home. Nothing here was new information for me, but it's always a pleasure to see you describe the process with all of its nuances in such an eloquent way that I could only dream of.
Simply the best series on TH-cam
I can tell you're really enjoying this build Scott. It's not a job, it's an adventure into your legacy and destiny. Cheers mate!!!
Man, I remember back when I did modular home installs, the boss would give the plans to the mason and the mason would place the bolts (We don't need hold downs here) where he assumed the plans wanted them. They were NEVER 100% - to no fault of the mason either. The boss always pre-ordered the homes and had them delivered near the sites, so we talked him into letting us spend a day on the site when the mason was there just to measure the first floor "boxes" as we called them, and marking where to put the bolts. And, how much thread to leave exposed. Modulars are different, you lag the house to through a double box beam into the sill plate, so having the nuts above the sill by much meant we had to remove them, counter sink the sill and reinstall them, and THEN cut the excess of with a torch or grinder. So much easier after we started marking the locations and lengths ourselves. no more floor joists being shifted to accommodate a poorly placed bolt.
This is therapy for me.
Don't let this guy scare you away from building a house. It can be done. It's not easy and yes he is correct but there is lots of ways to do it and it's not as complicated as it sounds in these videos. However these are great videos and thank you for taking the time to make them.
Axes and alcohol depends on the codes
Does the garage roof ridge terminate behind the main house rake edge? By the photo at 8:34 it would seem like a tough/impossible detail to keep water tight. It looks like the water running down the roadside face of the garage roof would run into the soffit underneath the main house rake edge. Hopefully I'm not seeing that correctly. Love the channel. Keep cranking out great content.
You are seeing that right and I am working out the cricket solution I hope!!!
This has got to be the neatest home construction i have ever seen, keep up the good work
There is no question of this. When I was out of high school I worked for a framer on custom homes. I never saw this level of detail and quality.
For my career I chose commercial construction. The level of quality is on par, if not better than what is expected in commercial construction.
Avid EC fan, love this channel! Scott and Nate I know you are incredibly busy with this project, so I’ll throw this question out for anyone: I was curious why the hold-downs appear to be mild steel? When I built my home here in Alaska we had to use galvanized hold-downs. Unlike the rebar, it does contact both pressure-treated lumber and air. And perhaps they are galvanized and just looked non in the video. remember to take days off here and there guys! Makes every other day so much more productive:)
this man reminds me that there are still people in this world who when they speak you sit down shut up and listen
You just get it! As an engineer it's frustrating when someone (architect, contractor etc) assumes anyone can be as accurate as you need to be (on drawings) with items like these hold downs. Most of the minute layout of these needs to be done on site.
No blame (when it's not required) just getting on with the job as required and understanding every disciplines limitations.
You'd be a dream to work with.
As I mentioned, we just poured our concrete foundation (footings and lower level basement walls) and my concrete crew didn't use those. They DID use the anchor bolts stuck into the wet mix at the top of the walls. Maybe it's because we don't have the earthquake potential. Or maybe that's all building code requires in this area. I hope they didn't leave anything out that's important.I included that part in my latest video of our building project series. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS BY THE WAY.
Magnum probably both. The country is separated into seismic zones in the code book based on probability of earthquakes. The codes in any given area are based on that data. Certain zones are much more relaxed, others require certain elements be designed by structural engineers to resist earthquakes.
As a carpenter in New Zealand, I find this channel super interesting, in how different countries use differing techniques to achieve the same thing. For example, over home our hold down fixings are drilled into the concrete after and chemset if their is a ring foundation like this one, or using screw in concrete anchors on a slab. The difference being there are a lot more as the centre spacing is greatly reduced. 900mm is common.
Master!!! Thank you so much for your passion and effort to make videos for us.
Simpson has a very helpful engineering staff on their 800 number that can answer any questions about any of their products.
"When the mud shows up the time for lay out as past," Quote of the day, well said sir.
Might as well do it right the first time !
Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
When I was still working and training apprentice's I would always tell them that there is always enough time to do it the second time so just do it right the first time and you just saved time...
That would be an expensive 2nd time.
The Essential Craftsman is sooooo gooooood!
Hi - great videos - why not consider cutting all of the sill boards and lay them along the top of the stem walls / layout the vertical framing locations then drill the holes for the hold downs and for the sill bolt locations / this way everything will work and your vertical framing layout will already be done. I am going to build a new home in Sedona and am trying to work through some of the tricky bits.....is this possible?
This is just what I needed today I was at my uncles house today helping him build his shop. We were using ICFs, There were six men about twelve feet high on scaffolding it was the last wall and there was only about three yards of concrete left. When suddenly the entire wall fell one of the men was trapped we spent about 3-5 miniutes rescueing him we had to use saw all’s and crowbars and we used the pump truck as a crane to pull him out he ended up with a broken arm a brocken wrist collapsed lung and a major gash down his arm
Not only am I enjoying the videos, it's a joy reading the comments. Of course you'll always get the snarky comments, but most here are very appreciative and they're a pleasure to read.
Can you talk about why you chose concrete blocks with grout vs poured concrete (as you did with the retaining wall)?
Thank you. Love your videos.
He explains it in his previous video...when they’re putting the block up.
@phuc ewe id say this is it. Blocks have no formwork to worry about but are not as strong in bending.
The retaining wall likely needed higher bending strength as it is pushed over by all that soil (in the 'out of plane' direction).
The block walls are held at the bottom by the footing and at the top by the floor so dont bend anywhere near as much out of plane.
@Kurt Miller because it was cheaper? I know where I'm from you multiply the cost of a wall by up to 5 if using poured walls, as opposed to precast or CMU. Might be different in the US.
Here in Oregon, where we live, poured stem walls are more cost effective and easier to waterproof below grade. I think the boss man was paying omage (sp?) to the craftspeople in Arizona who are masters in block walls. You can tell in the previous Arizona videos he has a huge amount of respect for those guys. The split face is also a historic look which will compliment this farmhouse style. Although I wanted to see poured stem walls , good on him for trying something different.
Given my experience with PIP concrete walls, block consistently ends up being around 2/3 the cost and takes less time
Scott was very complementary about the masons in the previous video. So I am surprised to see that in this video the blockwork looks pretty rough in places.
Split face can vary in thickness some. They make the side that shows look good. And the block that's getting buried doesn't get a ton of attention either. No sense in dumping extra labor into making something pretty that gets back filled.
Same
The future home owners are going to have a step by step video series showing how their house was built. They can go back and see, “oh, that’s where the wall ends under our floor.” Or, “yes, you can see the anchors were placed there so don’t drill into that part of the wall to hang a planter.” Or something like that. That to me is well worth paying extra for.
Exactly what I was taught. Straight talk.
Where I live and work the general consensus on crawl space vents is not to have any. A better option is to seal the crawl space and condition it as you would the living area. Vented spaces are an invitation to moisture and premature wood rot, not to mention mold and fungus growing under the floor.
It may depend on local conditions. Oregon is rather well known for its high rainfall, so it's unlikely you'll keep moisture from leeching up out of the dirt...so ventilating it makes sense in this situation. If you have a dry climate, I'm guessing it's probably less of an issue.
While bringing a crawlspace into the conditioned space is pretty much a must-have for regions with humid summers and air-conditioned interiors, it's not done much in Oregon because our summers aren't very humid. The risk of condensation on undersides of floor framing is, historically, very low here and thus the added cost of enclosing the crawlspace isn't seen as a good value.
KLM Builders an access panel comes in handy though
Smart idea having a framer come in before you place hold downs. As a prior carpenter I'm pretty used to notching out studs and it's a pain and looks awful. Would it be a good POA to pre mark top and bottom plates while placing tie-downs?
Once in awhile there's a shot across the valley that shows why this building lot is superb
worked on a project where none of the anchors lined up remotely close to where the plate would eventually sit. Some were crooked, some were completely missed, and some were just dropped too far. Also because the foundation wasn't square to begin with, but you do what you gotta do. Total gongshow of a site. And then the prefabbed walls that arrived, holy shit were they a nightmare.
In my opinion, blue prints, along with as build drawings and inspectors, are contractor best friends. A good guide, a record and an extra pair of eyes will help to safe from mistakes and wrong doing on time to amend them. Just keep them as close as possible. Another excellent video including passages that manuals just don't tell.
So many of the points made are unspoken or "automatic"for a good builder. As an onlooker it seems overwhelming the volume of factors that go into decision making in a building project. This complexity is one of the reasons for the skills gap and the high labor rate in USA today. Of course this is all my opinion and nothing else, but it takes a lot to do well in a particular field. Really appreciate all that EC communicates and how well they do so. Thanks much
I was thinking the same thing. It boggles the mind how anyone could keep track of all this stuff. I wonder if the architect draws the house, then the foundation to hold it, then adds the hold-downs to join the two, making sure that they are located in stud-cavities. Kind of makes sense if you work somewhat backwards that way. In the end, all their training and decision making is well worth the money spent.
@@MikeBramm I have little doubt that whatever design software the architect uses when laying out the house automates a lot of the process (like automatically locating the hold-downs, stud locations, etc.)
We are closing 8n a 15 acre organic farm. And the old house needs an Addition. So I have been watching your show for about 1 month or 2. And thanks for the deep explanations. And not I my the right way. But giving the suggestions along with the "code" to me its not just the acceptable way... But the RIGHT WAY.. Thank you sir. And may the Lord Bless you and your family.... Happy Sabbath.
You are skilled love from England been in the trade for 53 years
Your Knowledge is amazing.
I love the way you explain .
Plain & simple.
In the same mold as Larry haun.
I'd say Scott your the Best I've seen on You tube.
From England. UK .
About 11 years ago I did a foundation in Olympia Washington. Any time there was a conflict between the prints and application I was on the phone to the architect that did the design. More often than not he would come to the work site, make the appropriate clarifications and/or changes needed. Then I would have him write it out on MY copy of the prints, sign and date it.
At first i could tell he was irritated with me, but by the end of the job we got along quite well. I think it is important to realize that to be human is to err and by calling him about some issues he had the opportunity to fix any discrepancies that were in the design. I know I’ve made my share of oppsies. That’s really the reason inspectors exist.
Hello from Olympia. I used to work on houses but now make anchor bolts an the like. Hope your staying busy!
In Olympia of course.
Olympic Outdoors Dad the house is on W Bay Dr, just up the hill west of 4th Ave bridge. It is a Mediterranean style house with a red roof. I would stop at Dancing Goats on chilly wet mornings for a cup of coffee. 👍🏼
Nah I think they exist because there's to many sue happen retards. That's why there are so many dumb law's some of those things should be common sense. But if somebody want's to build something how he wants than he should be able too but not hurt anyone else.
I'm convinced there is no programming on my overpriced cable service as good as watching an Essential Craftsman, or old Larry Haun video. May sound silly, but it's makes me proud to have guys like this building in our country.
Never thought I'd have to explain to my wife why I am so excited about construction videos being uploaded...
Jordan Dempsey I’m a gal and I love essential craftsman!
It is in the UK
hold downs I use on sheer walls, for bottom plates I use titan screws.
Y’all worry about the shakes and thus bolt it down. We worry about the wind and thus bolt it down, put up similar sheer walls, and then lots of hurricane straps. Let’s all pray we never need any of them.
They are like fire extinguishers,better to have them and not need them, than to need them and not have them.
Indeed. I'm building a spec house and I now realize I should have just bought some stock in Simpson. Probably going to be a better return than the house!
William, on the Oregon Coast we worried about both wind and quakes. Huge shear walls and gigantic straps and bolts.
Using something like a Titen HD screw anchor lets you place the fasteners when putting up the walls. Drilling holes in concrete is quick with a rotary hammer.
NoC and inferior
I really like those sun shade hats you wear!
Yup - the framer should always do the anchor bolts!!! Bar none! Just got done seismically retrofitting my original 1923 bungalow home via installing both the SST UFRP foundation plates between sill and old concrete foundation in the larger area of the house and drilling in 5/8"x10" wedge anchors through the sill down into the concrete walls in the back end! Will do a few shear panels over the cripple walls in the back end and will be done. Am actually using more stringent 2nd floor seismic codes on the first floor for overkill. Who knows, the extra might come in handier during the big one down here! Funny thing is that damn house was never attached to the foundation at all - guess that was common back here in 23'!
I would buy anything this man built. You know it’s done right
Hey brother. Love your vids. I’m a building contractor in Orlando. Been doing it for 35 years. You do things the way I do it. It’s imperative that this part is done right. Have one issue. The masons did a terrible job on the block work. I know brick will cover. But still☹️
Really enjoying this series, showing us every step of the way. I love seeing the progress on the construction
The content on this channel is insane. The production is awesome, the topics are interesting, and the delivery makes me feel like I could do it. Do audio books already
Just a quick question, hope you can answer. Instead of laying tie down threaded set anchors in the grout, can you install them later on with chemical fix, drilled through the sole plate? Only asking as it may be easier set at a later date in the build. Thanks
Epoxy installed anchors have significant limitations imposed on them by code agencies (ACI, MSJC & ICC-ES). I don't think any manufacturers currently have any epoxy products approved for tension applications in tops of CMU walls. The side distance is often just too small. You get side-face blow-out failures at too low tension loads for them to be practical in most cases. Sometimes epoxy can be a viable 'fix' if a cast-in-place anchor was mis-located, but generally only if the tension demand on the holdown was already very low.
@@Andrew_2040 Thanks for your reply. I appreciate the shared knowledge.
Always handy to throw some painters tape over the threads before you pour, to avoid hardened mud in your hold-down threads. Can save a lot of headache.
I've done all sorts of Simpson hold-down systems. In low-rise construction, the seismic hold down plans are crazy through.
Try foil. Quicker and easier
depends on where you live
What a good idea it was following the AvE crowd to this channel. Love it 👌
One of my favorite contractor. It's going to be beautiful house. Thanks
Perfect timing on this for my project, thank you!
I love the attention to detail and I love the overkill.
Those anchor bolts created a lot of stress for me with my new shop. I measured and measured and checked and rechecked before the stem walls were poured. And then I found out I didn't put enough king studs on the window openings but the anchor bolts were already in. So I shrank my window ROs. Not what I wanted but it's fine. Well, I think it is, as I still haven't had a framing inspection!
como eh aprendido con este señor . gracias que Dios lo bendiga
The block work is not pretty but I have no doubt that its not going anywhere once filled. Maybe I can purchase this house for a slight discount now? Haha. Easy to fix it now with a texture before the house build resumes and block is back filled. But I just seen in the finish shot that no blockwork is really visible on this build. Great content so far.
for a framer who layed all the blocks he did actually pretty good! EC mentioned in the last video that the dude never layed block in a very long time, he was just framing houses and took this job for fun, scott and nate shoulda layed the blocks themselves, im sure with their skill level they coulda done it no problem and just as fast.
@@4dak88 That was *one* of the brothers and he was just there helping out on teh crew.
Complicated overkill is an understatement, and at the same time well done
Great House and Great engineering 🏫
How can people actually click on this video and then dislike it???
It's by far 1 of the best channels on TH-cam
I like your hats buddy. Gotta keep the heat off!
Bet those come from Arizona ! 😊 🔥🔥🔥
@@kengamble8595 Yep!
Yep, and skin cancer protection. I use one for long hours of hiking in the AZ desert often.
Where can I get one from? Those are great hats and I’m doing a lot outdoors these days.
@@RudyeMcGlothlin Both Ace and True Value hard stores. $15.
I love Southern Oregon! I graduated from SOU
The great State of Jefferson is only 5 minutes in any direction from Ashland!
So the wet set bolts are for the sill plates. The templated bolts will be fastened to vertical framing? Do they get attached to joists or do you run your king studs down to the sill?
two videos in two days!?! what is this magic!
THANK YOU...for sharing. Enjoyed.
Great commentary....well taught!
Thanks for the video.
I have confidence in could do everything to build a house save all the planning . Just so much to be on top of.
Pretty scary doing it on video too I’ll tell you!
@@essentialcraftsman nothing like recording your mistakes for posterity. Lol best way to learn things making or witnessing mistakes.
I framed on a large custom home in lake Havasu city AZ a few years ago. The bottom story was mostly RV garage space, 16’ high if I remember right. The little bit of wall on either side of the garage doors was Simpson strong wall I think it was called, basically just a steel wall section about two feet wide that gets anchored using those long “s” anchors to provide good shear strength with such a narrow wall, like a moment frame. Anyways one of the anchors was wrong and needed to be moved and it looked like a nightmare, haha, my boss had the general contractor fix it and I think he got the concrete crew to come back out. It was indeed expensive for somebody I’m sure.
Loved the video very good information to be pass on to everybody.
Would it be more efficient to lay out plates first? Seems a better way to ensure you don't run into a stud. If you could keep plates dry and straight until you need them.
Have a question about the masons and the finish on the blocks. I noticed a couple of shadows between the rows and it looked like the blocks deviated a little bit from center. What are the tolerances that are acceptable for a masonry wall finish?
Intwrsting how different Oregon is from Utah. We pour our stem wall in concrete and the hold downs are always in place by the foundation wall guy. 30"oc.... no matter what. And we just have to deal with it when framing.
Can't wait to see more. Amazing work. Keep it up!
As a structural engineer I have to say that everything you said is 100% correct. When contractors don't do what your video explained, we have problems and headaches that we have to spend hours dealing with and coming up with fixes. Every issue you explained I have run into one time or another. The attitude and consideration from the contractors and all the sub-trades makes all the difference in the world. I just wish there were more contractors like you. You are a very professional contractor.
A McLellan engineers are overrated
@@billypilgrim7838 Well that is pretty much a troll comment. It is also ironic that you are using technology developed by engineers to make the comment.
I used a different brand of h 2.5 clips, the plans said Simpson or equal, the inspector wanted documentation they were equal to Simpson. Never used an off brand of framing hardware again!
Reallly picking up the pace with the upload schedule! I like! There can only be one thing next from here 🔨📐
Dylan Mounsey grouting? underground plumbing? Back fill? Slabs?
badlandskid ah nobody cares about the little details of finalizing the foundation. We’re all here for the framing 😎
badlandskid the slabs are ready though
Dylan Mounsey you are jumping the gun stix. 🤔
badlandskid ah cmon lol
I hope you are making a video on extending that retaining wall
I know everyone likes to give pats on the back, and words of encouragement, but I must say.. the brick mason really could had gotten the blocks straighter and did a better job on the mortar. I'm quite sure they knew this was getting videoed. The vent block had mortar globbed up in it and the above/below alignment was bad. Even if it's in the crawlspace it matters. This was shortcutted badly I'm sorry to say.
I was thinking the same & i'm not trade. I just wondered if it was acceptable if it's not going to be seen? Also it prob doesn't rain 24/7 there
doinjusfine1 what makes you think they're brick masons
@@billypilgrim7838 block mason then...
Great video Essential craftsman
at 8:36 isn't there are point in the roof where it will just collect water? near where the garage and house meet
love this build
Wooohhoooo! Only 24 minutes late. I get so excited to see a new video for this project.
Your videos are realy good and interesting especially the ones abought forgingbut i like the others as well. Ihave seen thevi deo where you introduced your large gas forge. I like the design the ribbon burners and the possibility to lift it up and enlarge it with just putting some bricks under it. Have you thought about building a insolatet divider wich you put in the middle of the forge, so that you culd use the forge with only one Burner efficient for smaller projekts, or you could both parts with different temperatures. What do you think about putting a high temperatur thermometer in in every half of the Forge than you would know the exact Temp inside the forge, if you ad a Thermostat like in modern gasheating systems you could use the forge like a hardening oven.Greetings from Germany and sorry for my bad english.
I can't wait for the grouting video
Thanks for another excellent video. One thing you missed - or I did - is explaining what a hold down actually is :)
The other important thing that tie downs accomplish when you’re building a house like this … is that they build suspense for the grout pour! Pour the grout! Pour the grout!
My opinion only. Seismic activity possibilities, pour in place is better than a block foundation.