Your video explained the math in an easier to understand way for me than other videos. The formula is easy but combined with the electrical names makes the whole thing confusing. Thank you so much.
Thank you. This was a really big help. I only drive 2 or 3 days a week so when my new EV arrives I will try Level 1 first and see how annoying that is before I go to the trouble of having a 220 volt outlet installed in my garage.
If you drive 2 to 3 days a week there is no reason to buy a New EV unless you really in need of a new car, because the savings does not justify the cost of the new EV if you still own a ICE car.
thanks just got older 2015 leaf was hot dau hilly run down to zero so had to have it towed, yuck but now changing at home will see how it goes at home!
But level one to use in the uk is 240v as we do not have anything below this. My sock is rated at 16 amp but the plug has a 13 amp fuse fitted in it. Which is standard in most uk 3 pin plugs. Really not sure how it works every electrical item has its own fused plug then every circle has a separate breaker. When I get my wall charger that will have 48amp breaker it will not have a fused plug
My Central Vacuum was on a dedicated 15amps circuit, so used that for level 1 charging. Move Central Vacuum to another plug in garage, yes the Central Vacuum says it draws 11ampa
I spoke to a GM rep a few months ago and mentioned the outlets up here in Canada. The ones I have at my apartment cycle every fours hrs. when I'm plugged in with my regular car. The rep claims that's not an issue as you'll most likely get that power for 4 then shuts off for anther 4 etc. I have a co-worker with an Bolt and he says he's fine for about 4 hrs in the winter. Then funs the system for a good 3 hrs and he's fine till he gets home. I do about 30kms per day.
A block heater is 50 watts so a lot of block heater outlets have up to 30 parking stalls on one 15 amp circuit breaker so make certain the stalls around you all do not have their block heaters plugged in if you're doing this in a public parking lot. Now in Canada, a lot of apartments with external parking will have assigned parking and the outlets for that one stall would be wired to the apartment's breaker panel so that the renter pays for the electricity rather than the landlord. In this case it will often be on a separate breaker so the renter can shut it off when they are not using it, in such a case level 1 charging your vehicle may be reasonable.
@@READYSTEADYCHARGE Well, perhaps new construction will have dedicated 220 vac wiring to the designated stalls. However, many of the cheap often dingbat architecture apartments my friends stayed in during University had assigned parking with a 120 vac outlet wired to a breaker on the apartments circuit panel. It was often necessary to keep that circuit switched off when you weren't using it in case a neighbour wanted to tap your power. Basically, the circuit wiring was because the landlord's didn't want to pay for the block heater power. I suspect that the apartments would still have the tenant pay for the EVSE though they may require the EVSE be bought and installed by them. I can't see a lot of existing apartments do anything other than perhaps contract with say Flo to have a public charger on the premises and perhaps just level 2 destination chargers just to say they supported EV's. It'll be like how many motels and hotels will only have one level 2 Tesla EVSE and a CCS EVSE just to say they support EV's.
Great video as mentioned in one of my comments prior you should do the ultimate challenge a road trip with just level 1 charging. Would be a sight to see. But this makes sense I find most people have 12 hours between coming home + sleep = 12 hours. I say 4 hours once home to settle in plus 8 hours sleep. So level one could satisfy most lifestyles. Roughly 80km a day is not bad. Thanks again for an amazing video.
Mine says 120/12 on back, car says it won't be charged completely until 10pm, but when I go to work, it's all charged? I'm happy, buy I don't understand why??
I just got my Kona and I'm making do with the level one charger. It's painfully slow, but doable. I just have to stop myself checking my phone every few minutes!
The advise I am going to give comes from someone who only have experience with EVs in North America, which means mostly 110-120V household outlets. What I say won't apply to countries using 220-240V outlets. It is generally not recommended to use an extension cord with the EVSE. If you have to use one, it needs to match or exceed the specification of the EVSE. For example, the EVSE that came with my Kona max out at 120V and 12A. For this EVSE, I would go with a cable that could take at least 120V and 15A. Some EVSEs, especially after market ones, has maximum current at 15A. I personally have an extension cord with maximum specification of 120V and 30A just to be extra safe. Also, make sure that the extension cord is not coiled while in use and that the connection between the EVSE and the extension cord is kept dry to avoid short circuit especially outdoors.
@READYSTEADYCHARGE Level 1 charge really needs an extension lead of 2.5mm sq. Easily purchased from your local outlet but don't leave it wound up please. Level 1 is like a kettle, 2.4kw draw...
I trickle charge every night on a standard outlet in our parking garage. I easily get 50 km of range overnight. I'm always topped up because my daily commute is far less.
There is a black square button on the back of the EVSE which I use to change the current. You have to hold the button for 2 seconds to change the current. You can only make this change when the cable is not plugged into the vehicle. When plugged into the vehicle, the same black square button will stop the charging if you hold it.
As an electrical engineer, I can say that regulating current is no easy task on power circuits as current will just be voltage divided by the load's resistance. For all we know, the selection on the EVSE could just be the breaker setting. However, the documentation for the CCS socket says that the car will provide a 30 VDC square wave on the CP pin to the EVSE and the width of the pulse will be proportional to the power rate being requested. It could be that this square wave is the base input for triacs on the EVSE's hot line, basically operating in much the same way that a stove's burner knob operates or how a light dimmer switch would operate by clipping the waveform and hence the EVSE just limits the pulse width controlling the triacs but this really affects the voltage once rectified not the current. Yes, I realize this sounds terribly primitive but with power electronics, simplicity is key otherwise you would have a lot of energy loss. I have not seen anything in the standards that allow the EVSE to feed back any information to the car, the PP pin does get 30 VDC from the EVSE to the car but it's a straight 30 VDC through a resistor feeding into another resistor in the car forming a voltage divider hence the voltage will be lower when connected, this likely controls triacs in the car to disconnect when the plug is unplugged. It may also control triacs in the EVSE but that would require the signal be inverted or a different doping in the selection of the triacs. I wish I could find more information on how they limit the power but I suspect it's not nearly as sophisticated as people think it is. Note, they may even use mechanical relays instead of triacs controlled by the PP line but you should be able to notice a load click if that was the case. Triacs would be a source of power loss but relays have limited reliability and usage cycles. Note even the Tesla plug only has a CP and PP contacts so their exchange of vehicle identifier must be modulated likely on the CP line. The Chademo connector has ten pins so likely more communication options. The IEC CCS in Europe also has more pins though I understand it's mostly for three phase power to be an option.
I just tried for the first time plugging my Hyundai Kona in with the provided level 1 and keep getting a fault light on my charger display. Any thoughts u can help me figure this out?
I haven't seen this issue. This is a forum post that seems to be dealing with this problem, hope it helps: www.ioniqforum.com/threads/wall-charger-showing-red-plug-error.35740/
The voltage supplied from the utility pole outside a North American household is typically 240 volts, but it's delivered in a split-phase configuration that provides both 120 volts and 240 volts.
The split-phase configuration is a method of distributing electrical power to residential households, providing both 120 volts and 240 volts from a three-phase power supply. It involves using a center-tapped transformer, which allows the generation of two separate 120-volt AC circuits with a common neutral wire. This setup is commonly used in North American residential systems. Here's how it works: 1. **Three-Phase Supply**: The utility company generates and supplies electrical power in three phases. Each phase is a separate AC voltage waveform, typically 120 degrees out of phase with each other. The voltage between any two phases is 240 volts. 2. **Transformer Connection**: The incoming three-phase power is connected to a center-tapped transformer. The center tap is the neutral point. The transformer has three primary windings, each connected to a different phase, and a secondary winding with a center tap. 3. **Center-Tapped Secondary Winding**: The secondary winding of the transformer has a center tap, which is the neutral wire. The two ends of the secondary winding are the "hot" wires. The voltage between either hot wire and the neutral wire is 120 volts. 4. **Phase Relationship**: The two hot wires are connected to opposite phases of the three-phase supply. This arrangement creates a 180-degree phase difference between the voltages on the hot wires. 5. **120-Volt Circuits**: Household circuits that require 120 volts are connected between one of the hot wires and the neutral wire. Since the voltage difference between the hot wire and the neutral wire is 120 volts, this provides a standard 120-volt AC supply. 6. **240-Volt Circuits**: Appliances that require 240 volts, such as electric stoves and dryers, are connected across both hot wires. In this case, the voltage difference between the two hot wires is 240 volts, which provides the higher voltage needed for these appliances. 7. **Balanced Load**: When the loads on the two hot wires are balanced (equal), the current flowing through the neutral wire is minimal, resulting in efficient power distribution. The split-phase configuration allows the utility company to provide both 120-volt and 240-volt power to residential areas efficiently, catering to the varying needs of different household appliances and devices.
It all depends as to how you look at it when it comes to EVs! The vast majority of EV owners top-up their EVs at home overnight at very attractive electricity rates. It usually takes about 15 seconds to either plug or unplug their EV chargers. As such, it'll take less time to connect/disconnect an EV charger than it does to fuel-up an ICE vehicle!
Your video explained the math in an easier to understand way for me than other videos. The formula is easy but combined with the electrical names makes the whole thing confusing. Thank you so much.
Great information, thank you! You answered, very clearly, my question about why I popped a breaker when using doing a level 1 charge in my garage.
Excellent explanation. Thanks for the detail in going through the numbers.
Thank you. This was a really big help. I only drive 2 or 3 days a week so when my new EV arrives I will try Level 1 first and see how annoying that is before I go to the trouble of having a 220 volt outlet installed in my garage.
If you drive 2 to 3 days a week there is no reason to buy a New EV unless you really in need of a new car, because the savings does not justify the cost of the new EV if you still own a ICE car.
thanks just got older 2015 leaf was hot dau hilly run down to zero so had to have it towed, yuck but now changing at home will see how it goes at home!
This was perfect, especially because I only have a eight minute commute to work which is less than 2 miles and I don’t do much driving after or before
Bro all you need is a bike 😂
Very good explanation, thank you !
Thanks for posting. Level 2 and 3 charging are recommended to 80%. Can you go to 100% on level 1 or is it also not recommended?
But level one to use in the uk is 240v as we do not have anything below this.
My sock is rated at 16 amp but the plug has a 13 amp fuse fitted in it. Which is standard in most uk 3 pin plugs.
Really not sure how it works every electrical item has its own fused plug then every circle has a separate breaker.
When I get my wall charger that will have 48amp breaker it will not have a fused plug
My Central Vacuum was on a dedicated 15amps circuit, so used that for level 1 charging. Move Central Vacuum to another plug in garage, yes the Central Vacuum says it draws 11ampa
Nice job!
I spoke to a GM rep a few months ago and mentioned the outlets up here in Canada. The ones I have at my apartment cycle every fours hrs. when I'm plugged in with my regular car. The rep claims that's not an issue as you'll most likely get that power for 4 then shuts off for anther 4 etc. I have a co-worker with an Bolt and he says he's fine for about 4 hrs in the winter. Then funs the system for a good 3 hrs and he's fine till he gets home. I do about 30kms per day.
A block heater is 50 watts so a lot of block heater outlets have up to 30 parking stalls on one 15 amp circuit breaker so make certain the stalls around you all do not have their block heaters plugged in if you're doing this in a public parking lot. Now in Canada, a lot of apartments with external parking will have assigned parking and the outlets for that one stall would be wired to the apartment's breaker panel so that the renter pays for the electricity rather than the landlord. In this case it will often be on a separate breaker so the renter can shut it off when they are not using it, in such a case level 1 charging your vehicle may be reasonable.
I think apartments should have individually metered outlets at each stall now so that they can prepare for the EV future.
@@READYSTEADYCHARGE Well, perhaps new construction will have dedicated 220 vac wiring to the designated stalls. However, many of the cheap often dingbat architecture apartments my friends stayed in during University had assigned parking with a 120 vac outlet wired to a breaker on the apartments circuit panel. It was often necessary to keep that circuit switched off when you weren't using it in case a neighbour wanted to tap your power. Basically, the circuit wiring was because the landlord's didn't want to pay for the block heater power. I suspect that the apartments would still have the tenant pay for the EVSE though they may require the EVSE be bought and installed by them. I can't see a lot of existing apartments do anything other than perhaps contract with say Flo to have a public charger on the premises and perhaps just level 2 destination chargers just to say they supported EV's. It'll be like how many motels and hotels will only have one level 2 Tesla EVSE and a CCS EVSE just to say they support EV's.
@@READYSTEADYCHARGE It’s Miles Not Kilometers
Gee thank you. I rented an iconiq and of course zero info was provided
Great video as mentioned in one of my comments prior you should do the ultimate challenge a road trip with just level 1 charging. Would be a sight to see. But this makes sense I find most people have 12 hours between coming home + sleep = 12 hours. I say 4 hours once home to settle in plus 8 hours sleep. So level one could satisfy most lifestyles. Roughly 80km a day is not bad. Thanks again for an amazing video.
Its 50 Miles Not 80 km It’s Miles mi Not Kilometers km
@@byronchavarria4954 they are one and the same mate.....
Great video! Nice job!
Thank you; I do love the math!
I live in Manitoba… what about leaving that in the cold winter?
Does your cable lock? So no one takes it.
mine does.....
Thanks you so much 🥂✌️😃🙏
You are welcome!
very nice ,great video .
thank you! is there a level 2 charging cable that you can plug into 120v?
Very good information….
Mine says 120/12 on back, car says it won't be charged completely until 10pm, but when I go to work, it's all charged? I'm happy, buy I don't understand why??
I leave for work at 12:30 in afternoon.
How big is your battery?
I just got my Kona and I'm making do with the level one charger. It's painfully slow, but doable. I just have to stop myself checking my phone every few minutes!
The battery size on the kona 67.5kw with a useable 64kw.
Thanks for this!
Is it safe to plug into an extension cord?
The advise I am going to give comes from someone who only have experience with EVs in North America, which means mostly 110-120V household outlets. What I say won't apply to countries using 220-240V outlets.
It is generally not recommended to use an extension cord with the EVSE. If you have to use one, it needs to match or exceed the specification of the EVSE. For example, the EVSE that came with my Kona max out at 120V and 12A. For this EVSE, I would go with a cable that could take at least 120V and 15A. Some EVSEs, especially after market ones, has maximum current at 15A. I personally have an extension cord with maximum specification of 120V and 30A just to be extra safe. Also, make sure that the extension cord is not coiled while in use and that the connection between the EVSE and the extension cord is kept dry to avoid short circuit especially outdoors.
It's not recommended because that will add additional resistance to the circuit.
yes
@READYSTEADYCHARGE Level 1 charge really needs an extension lead of 2.5mm sq. Easily purchased from your local outlet but don't leave it wound up please. Level 1 is like a kettle, 2.4kw draw...
Does L1 charging help at all when it's very cold (Say colder than -20)?
I trickle charge every night on a standard outlet in our parking garage. I easily get 50 km of range overnight. I'm always topped up because my daily commute is far less.
Are you in a condo?
Hello, how did you change the charging current on the charger. I just picked up a Kia niro ev and the charger says 2amps when plugged in.
There is a black square button on the back of the EVSE which I use to change the current. You have to hold the button for 2 seconds to change the current. You can only make this change when the cable is not plugged into the vehicle. When plugged into the vehicle, the same black square button will stop the charging if you hold it.
As an electrical engineer, I can say that regulating current is no easy task on power circuits as current will just be voltage divided by the load's resistance. For all we know, the selection on the EVSE could just be the breaker setting. However, the documentation for the CCS socket says that the car will provide a 30 VDC square wave on the CP pin to the EVSE and the width of the pulse will be proportional to the power rate being requested. It could be that this square wave is the base input for triacs on the EVSE's hot line, basically operating in much the same way that a stove's burner knob operates or how a light dimmer switch would operate by clipping the waveform and hence the EVSE just limits the pulse width controlling the triacs but this really affects the voltage once rectified not the current. Yes, I realize this sounds terribly primitive but with power electronics, simplicity is key otherwise you would have a lot of energy loss. I have not seen anything in the standards that allow the EVSE to feed back any information to the car, the PP pin does get 30 VDC from the EVSE to the car but it's a straight 30 VDC through a resistor feeding into another resistor in the car forming a voltage divider hence the voltage will be lower when connected, this likely controls triacs in the car to disconnect when the plug is unplugged. It may also control triacs in the EVSE but that would require the signal be inverted or a different doping in the selection of the triacs. I wish I could find more information on how they limit the power but I suspect it's not nearly as sophisticated as people think it is. Note, they may even use mechanical relays instead of triacs controlled by the PP line but you should be able to notice a load click if that was the case. Triacs would be a source of power loss but relays have limited reliability and usage cycles. Note even the Tesla plug only has a CP and PP contacts so their exchange of vehicle identifier must be modulated likely on the CP line. The Chademo connector has ten pins so likely more communication options. The IEC CCS in Europe also has more pins though I understand it's mostly for three phase power to be an option.
@@johnwang9914 that's not at all how it works, and current adjustment is quite easy.
Just look up the IEC standard, it's all described in there.
Can I get rid off the dust cap? I saw that the 2022 Kona EV doesn't have it anymore
My 2022 eniro still has it
I ripped mine off. It was annoying.
10 hrs only? you work 14 hours a day?
You do if you're running a startup 🤷♂️
i don't call it level 1 charging i would call it a outlet charging
I call it trickle charging
I just tried for the first time plugging my Hyundai Kona in with the provided level 1 and keep getting a fault light on my charger display. Any thoughts u can help me figure this out?
I haven't seen this issue. This is a forum post that seems to be dealing with this problem, hope it helps:
www.ioniqforum.com/threads/wall-charger-showing-red-plug-error.35740/
Why do people mispronounce Hyundai ? It’s hun day not hun die
It’s Miles Not Kilometers
50miles is 80kms matey...
Poor americans only have 115 volts..
sure we do
The voltage supplied from the utility pole outside a North American household is typically 240 volts, but it's delivered in a split-phase configuration that provides both 120 volts and 240 volts.
The split-phase configuration is a method of distributing electrical power to residential households, providing both 120 volts and 240 volts from a three-phase power supply. It involves using a center-tapped transformer, which allows the generation of two separate 120-volt AC circuits with a common neutral wire. This setup is commonly used in North American residential systems. Here's how it works:
1. **Three-Phase Supply**: The utility company generates and supplies electrical power in three phases. Each phase is a separate AC voltage waveform, typically 120 degrees out of phase with each other. The voltage between any two phases is 240 volts.
2. **Transformer Connection**: The incoming three-phase power is connected to a center-tapped transformer. The center tap is the neutral point. The transformer has three primary windings, each connected to a different phase, and a secondary winding with a center tap.
3. **Center-Tapped Secondary Winding**: The secondary winding of the transformer has a center tap, which is the neutral wire. The two ends of the secondary winding are the "hot" wires. The voltage between either hot wire and the neutral wire is 120 volts.
4. **Phase Relationship**: The two hot wires are connected to opposite phases of the three-phase supply. This arrangement creates a 180-degree phase difference between the voltages on the hot wires.
5. **120-Volt Circuits**: Household circuits that require 120 volts are connected between one of the hot wires and the neutral wire. Since the voltage difference between the hot wire and the neutral wire is 120 volts, this provides a standard 120-volt AC supply.
6. **240-Volt Circuits**: Appliances that require 240 volts, such as electric stoves and dryers, are connected across both hot wires. In this case, the voltage difference between the two hot wires is 240 volts, which provides the higher voltage needed for these appliances.
7. **Balanced Load**: When the loads on the two hot wires are balanced (equal), the current flowing through the neutral wire is minimal, resulting in efficient power distribution.
The split-phase configuration allows the utility company to provide both 120-volt and 240-volt power to residential areas efficiently, catering to the varying needs of different household appliances and devices.
@@EVnStevenApp meanwhile 400v 3 phase
@EVnStevenApp very well explained sir.
My old car charges in 2 minutes at the gas station lol
It all depends as to how you look at it when it comes to EVs!
The vast majority of EV owners top-up their EVs at home overnight at very attractive electricity rates.
It usually takes about 15 seconds to either plug or unplug their EV chargers.
As such, it'll take less time to connect/disconnect an EV charger than it does to fuel-up an ICE vehicle!