Laminating a Wooden Boat Stem | Building Temptress Ep6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
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- In this video -
In this video I am laminating the stock for the stem for Temptress. This forms an incredibly strong timber at the front of the boat where the sheer clamp, topside battens, chines and keel will land. This timber is laminated on a CNC cut jig using thin layers of Utile. I cut the laminations myself and in the video I show you how I set up my bandsaw to cut these.
The stem is then laminated using West System Epoxy to form a strong and stable timber. This will later be CNC carved on my machine to cut its bevels and landing notches for all timbers that will attach into it.
- Project sponsors -
I want to say a huge thank you to the following sponsors that are helping to reduce the materials cost for me on this build in order to help me get things moving! Current project sponsors are:
www.sykestimber.co.uk
wessexresins.co.uk/west-system/
www.epifanes.com/introduction
www.robbins.co.uk
#buildingTemptress
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:59 Building the jig
5:16 Setting up the bandsaw
15:48 Sawing veneers
17:24 Making the stem
29:50 A look at the stem
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You covered a bandsaw setup, perfectly. You don't know how refreshing that is to see now a days! Just an old Machinist.
You have the heart of a craftsman with the head of an innovator
You’re a good teacher! Thank you 🙏
Thank you! 😃
Massive workmanship quality👍👍
Wonderful video. Really appreciated the time taken to explain the bandsaw set up. Mine frustrates the socks off me because I didn’t know how to set it up properly. Thanks
Rob Western Australia
It is really annoying when they don't perform well and you start wasting valuable stock. With a power feed there is no steering room so it's got to be set up right! Glad you enjoyed this segment.
I have never seen anybody so pleased with his lamination!
At the risk of me sounding like a shoddy builder, other than the quest for near perfection, it seems the veneer sanding step might be unnecessary (if the resaw setup is accurate like yours was) given the gap filling properties of thickened epoxy and the amount of squeeze out obtained.
Nothing like a nicely bent piece of wood to make me smile 😁
You are right, I am sure I could have gone straight from the sawing process to glue up. In fact the keyed sawn surface would have been ideal for bonding. I guess I wanted complete uniformity to the layers but it isn't really essential.
Good Morning from Columbia South Carolina. Amazing workmanship and problem solving. Look forward to each video. Usually watch multiple times.
Thank you, glad to hear you are enjoying the videos!
Good morning from Chesapeake Bay, Virginia
You are amazing craftsman
My wife always ask why i have so many clamps. I always say i dont have enough clamps
There are soo many types out there as well, and every now and then you just need to keep piling them on!
17:59
Clamping the jig to the frame construction board was a really good idea to reduce spring back of the stem and to ensure the jig did not break from the force of bending all of those laminate layer boards. I wish I would have thought of that in my build….
Yes it certainly helped, I couldn't believe how much force was needed to bend the lamination stack. That's one thing you just can't gauge when putting together a plan set from a CAD model. If I hadn't clamped it down I think I would have run a temporary brace between the tips of the jig.
What thickness veneers did you use on your stem?
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding
I used 5/16” thick Sapele. I ended up laminating in two stages, as I was afraid to break the jig, and I used three layers of the mdf board for the jig.
Awesome project, looking forwards to following it to the end! Would be nice to see what part in the 3D-model you're making in the beginning of the video
Good idea thank you, I will start doing this!
Very interesting! 🤩👌👌👌
lovely masterpiece Dan! as usual.... 👍
Amazing work, looks great!
Great video, Dan
Great episode! Thanks
Great job! Following. Send the model to me, I finish it for you. LOL
I was actually thinking of suggesting this to see if someone would be interested. Where are you based?
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding I currently live in Brazil. A little far from the UK, but if no one nearby wants to and you're willing, I'll take on the challenge. In the meantime, let's watch the construction series of this real-scale jewel.
Amazing very nice boat making best Contact 🌹 love you guys
Love the polythene wrapping. Anyone who’s done laminations knows epoxy has the ability to get every-frickin-where! My clamps hate me.
Yeah and to think I almost didn't bother with it this time as well, I was glad I did once I saw the squeeze out!
This gave me a touch of deja-vu, especially when you said you were going to re-machine the stem to eliminate the slight spring back. I did that in my own build, using a template to rout the inside curve back true.
I envy your ability to machine the complete shape. Doing the fairing by old-school methods was very time-consuming!
It will be really interesting to see how that pans out. It is quite a complex part when you see all the notches and shape of it.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Yes, it all gets a bit "hectic" around the stem. I'm looking forward to seeing how this is resolved in your build.
Quite familiar process! I'm little bit jealous of the power feeder though... 😒
That dowel is very handy. Learned it "hard way" i suppose... 😅
Also, there's no really need to use thickened epoxy with lamination like this. Just put enough of the unthickened stuff between there. There's nothing really to fill wit the glue with smooth surfaces like that. That said, it's bit hard to get enough of it when it's warm. 😅
Yes I've done it without the dowel before, it all gets very slippery! I've already learnt the hard way and you end up wasting a lot more wood in the cleanup stage due to slipping.
I think doing this with all un thickened epoxy would be risky and would result in potential dry areas. There were also some layers that still had sawing marks in them after dimensioning so I wanted to ensure they were taken care of.
I've got the CNC carving process to do next 😬
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Good luck with that! I did it with pretty similar way. The key was to attach the mold and the piece to the CNC bed into "known position", then to trim the stem to proper thickness on both sides first and then carve it out. I needed to model "extra material" to the stem (as a stock) to be able to remove all the excess outside the actual piece.
I suppose you have complete 3d-shape of the stem so you can make it fully 3d carving?
@ArcticSeaCamel yes I was thinking of modelling the extra stock actually so I can do a proper clearance operation so I don’t have to get the chisel out mid program 😆
Yes I do have the stem fully 3D modelled which helps, I’ll definitely run lots of simulations before pressing the run button. There’s a whole lot of time in that lamination that I don’t want to mess up! 🤦♂️
Have you heard of the Snodgrass method of tracking? He suggests that you put the gullet of the blade at the crown of the tyre.
I have heard of people using that method and see the theory in it however it doesn't work for me and my saw. I have tried it but found my blade tracked very badly when using that method.
Maybe it works better for narrow blades
Yes quite possibly 👍
imagine cutting all that by handsaw ??!!
I think I'd still be cutting those layers now 😮💨
When I saw the CAD version of the CNC'd stem, I was wondering if you need to upgrade your CNC to be a 4 or 5-axis model so you could cut precise angles on the stem in an upward cut instead of multiple steps down the stem. Either way, I can't wait to see how this works. Your glue-up was perfect, no reason not to take credit for it.
A 5 axis would be the perfect tool for this. It would do the carving process in a fraction of the time and it would be super smooth. I'm expecting to end up with small ridges on the stem bevel but given that all the bevelled surfaces will be later bonded to, I don't think this will be an issue. I'm looking forward to seeing how it works as well.
Is that a vacuum gauge on your extraction?
Id like to see a tour of the setup 😀
Yes, it indicates if either the filters are clogged or if I have too many gates open. Very helpful to ensure good extraction on the machine I'm using. I did a workshop tour video a few years ago, things are slightly different now but you can see most of the setup here: th-cam.com/video/WwRMJnV_ecM/w-d-xo.html
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding thanks!
Hi Dan. I’ve seen other woodworkers (not boat builders admittedly) use steam to help bend wood similar to this. Would there be any advantage or disadvantages to using that technique in this application, or basically no real point here? Thanks!
I have done this before, I steamed the laminations when I made my cockpit coaming for Miss Isle: th-cam.com/video/q-PotjTUjmw/w-d-xo.html
It's a good way to put a bit of memory into the wood first and better if you want to use fewer, thicker laminations. However you have the extra process of having to wait for the steaming operation to cool and then the timber to come back down to the correct moisture content. Quite a bit longer all in.
These days I would aim for using laminations that are thin enough to be able to make the bend comfortably when cold.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding thanks Dan. My brain is telling me that adding memory in advance would put less strain on the glued surfaces, but looking at the solidity of your finished beam and I guess the effectiveness of modern epoxy, then doesn’t seem necessary here!
👍👍👍👍❤
where did you get all those new clamps?
They are all quite old actually, I've had most of those Irwin clamps for about 8 years now. The Bessey ones for the MFT table are new though.