1972 Yamaha DT2 Project: oil pump adjustment, brake switch repair, paint, and more!

After getting done with the first ride, there are lots of things to address before I can consider this project done. This video goes over some of that...re soldering the rear brake switch, chiseling out the stripped screws that hold the oil pump cover on and adjusting the pump while it was open, painting, polishing and re-greasing pivot points on the suspension. More to come!

[@jeschreindl]

Bike is coming along nicely man 👍🏻

[@Garage2Trail]

Thank you Josh! I cant wait until this bike is done and I can get it on the road and light trail work.

[@jeffferguson899]

I appreciate your content.

[@Garage2Trail]

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words very much!

[@wattie1050]

Beginning to look nice and tidy now, shows you what some elbow grease and some paint can do to transform the bike , those rims and shocks came up great. Great work 👍👍

[@Garage2Trail]

Thank you! It really didn’t take much. Just some patience!

[@1ljs]

As far as the front fender hitting, perhaps just moving the mounting position instead of trying to bend it. just unbolt the fender itself and rotate it forward. Before re-drilling the holes get someone to help compress or take the caps off and let the forks compress under the weight of the bike to see if it makes a difference. This may prevent breaking the metal mounting brackets. I enjoy your videos, keep 'em coming.
LaVern

[@Garage2Trail]

Thank you LaVern that’s a great idea! I’ll give that a shot and thanks again for watching!

[@eotruba]

any consideration for rusting after wire wheeling everything?

[@Garage2Trail]

So far so good. Most of the stuff I wheeled was aluminum anyways.

[@eotruba]

How did it make you feel when you were trying to rip out the the fork seal and jumped cut to after removing the circlip?

[@Garage2Trail]

I honestly can’t remember how I felt lol…this was a while back but the bike is still working great and the fork seals aren’t leaking 👍

[@daveparks5092]

I had one exactly like that in HIgh School. We even raised the fender. We used hose clamps to secure it to the forks. Did you by chance get it in southern Ohio?

[@Garage2Trail]

Nice, I really like this bike a lot. The lines are perfect and it runs great! I picked it up last year just east of Pittsburgh. Not sure how long the guy I got or from had it or where he got it from.

[@tomgregory7479]

To take screws out of side use the blunt tip phillips that nobody likes , you won't believe how it works really good on Japanese bikes

[@Garage2Trail]

Thank you Tom!

[@matwom]

Hi mate , I noticed in one of your last DT videos you filled the gearbox oil to the correct amount stamped on the gearbox cover but the dip stick showed it to be over filled , did you leave it like that or did you drain some out ?? I have the same issue with one of my bikes , if I filled it to the dip stick it only took 300 ml when it said 750 on side of case ,,

[@Garage2Trail]

Hello! I just left it because I was sure I drained it all out. Someone also mentioned that the level should be checked when the bike is warmed up too. I would fill it with the capacity that’s marked on the case if you are sure it’s empty and then check it after it’s been running and warm.

[@dwwd156]

Looking great. Did you spray any clear or anything on the shocks to keep them from rusting again?

[@Garage2Trail]

Thank you! I didn’t but I’ll be keeping an eye on them. If they start to rust I’ll just wire brush them quickly and spray them. That’s a good idea. This bike will be kept inside so that should help too.

[@donbridgewater2988]

Why did you put the rear exhaust mount back on with it being no good? Might as well left ot off.

[@Garage2Trail]

Are you referring to the small tab with the rubber mounted piece? It was still usable and I didn’t want to lose it. I left the exhaust off so I could do a little more polishing on the motor.

[@donbridgewater2988]

@@Garage2Trail yes, it looks like the portion that bolts the the pipe has broken off the rubber part.

[@Garage2Trail]

@@donbridgewater2988 I think it’s more of a spacer and absorber (with the rubber part) than a mount. The muffler still has the mounting point intact and is really solid. Almost positive that little rubber tab/metal part is just a spacer.

[@donbridgewater2988]

@@Garage2Trail If you look, it is supposed to one unit, the rubber holds the two halfs of the mount as a full unit. I had to replace the one on my DT3 restore job. The unit is the rear mount for the exhaust.

[@Garage2Trail]

@@donbridgewater2988 ahh ok thank you! I had no idea! This is the earliest DT I’ve worked on. Learn something every day lol. I appreciate the info

[@tomgregory7479]

The screws are weird if you use those blunt tip Philip screw driver you get with your set nobody knows what to use it for will its made for Japanese Philips

[@Garage2Trail]

Yup, I’ve since gotten a set of JIS screwdrivers just for these bikes. Makes the job that much easier and you don’t mess up the heads on the screws.